mise en place issue 61 salt an essential element
DESCRIPTION
mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America.TRANSCRIPT
ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
No. 61, September 2012
SALTAn Essential
Element
Salt: An Essential ElementThe history and uses of salt
6 Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce SaltUsing “mala” flavor to lower salt
10
A World Diversity FestivalA campus-wide celebration
16Sensory Perception of SaltMysteries of this fundamental flavor enhancer
8
Across the PlazaTasting Success by Cutting Salt | Following the Presidential
Trail | Creating the CIA Bakery Café | Chow Down at the
Chowder Cook-off
12
Education for LifeWorlds of Flavor | Innovation through Leadership
Book Shelf | Kudos
21
Gifts at WorkBridging the Gap By Giving Back | Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact
26
Class NotesThen & Now | Class Notes | In Memoriam
30
22
1812
4
It seems impossible that something you’ve enjoyed since childhood can go from
being a comfort and a delicious presence in your life, to being life-threatening.
But that is what has happened to salt. It was brought to us from the sea in its
most basic form, and over the years, we’ve pushed the boundaries of salt’s use
until now, it is the “seasoning non grata” of the 21st century.
Salt has so many positive qualities. Before refrigeration, it was used to ensure
food safety through its role in brining, pickling, and fermentation. But as we
became industrialized and food became mass-produced, manufacturers used
it to enhance the flavor of highly processed food. And now, as a nation, we are
discovering we are over-salted. We appear to have a penchant for layering our
diet with processed, ready-to-eat food; hidden sources of salt; and an alarming
lack of fresh victuals.
Salt is so common that we don’t even notice it unless it’s riding on the surface of
a chip or French fry. The salt added to our processed food barely breaks through
our conscious awareness. Most of us have to read a package to understand just
how much salt we are ingesting.
A while back, it became clear that my taste buds were enjoying salt much more
than my body was, and I had to limit my intake. I eat mostly fresh foods now,
but I’m not afraid to add a little salt to finish off a dish. That sparing sprinkle
isn’t where the danger lies; it’s in the processed food. I thought I’d never get used
to the taste of things without a heavy salting, but frankly, I’ve discovered the
sweetness of cauliflower, the earthiness of potatoes, the lightness of salmon, and
the snappy tang of tomatoes.
Awareness is a good thing for both individuals and industry. So, this issue of
mise en place is about awareness and flavor, and how to marry those two elements
to create healthy, tasty meals.
Enjoy!
Nancy Cocola, Editor
Mission Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by:
Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.
Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concern-ing the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodser-vice industry.
Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community.
©2012 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.
Photography: Shirley Cheng, Ben Fink, Keith Ferris, Michael Gutowski, Kristen Loken, Phil Mansfield, and Pauline Stevens.
mise en place® No. 61, September 2012
Nancy W. Cocola, Editor
Leslie Jennings, Designer
Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President
Dr. Victor Gielisse Vice President— Advancement and Business Development
Mark Ainsworth ’86
Brad Barnes ’87
Sue Cussen
Heather Kolakowski ’02
Chet Koulik
Dr. Chris Loss ’93
Francisco Migoya
Douglass Miller ’89
Anthony Nogales ’88
Jennifer Stack ’03
Editorial Board
Mark Ainsworth ’86
David Kamen ’88
Shelly Loveland
Natalie Singer (student)
Felicia Zammit
Contributing Writers
Cover inspired by KatsushiKa hoKusai’s the Great Wave.1829–32.
mise en place no.61, September 2012 5
The Bakery Café by illy, St. Helena, CAWhen you first enter the CIA at Greystone,
don’t be surprised if you find yourself lured
by the intoxicating smells of baked bread,
cookies, and other treats being made in
our new Bakery Café by illy. The menu
features breakfast pastries and savory lunch
items prepared by our baking & pastry arts
students and faculty as part of the college’s
degree program. In addition, the café
has a full selection of illy specialty coffee
drinks, Dammann Frères teas, house-
made beverages, wines, and microbrews.
Students operating the café will learn about
coffee from history to cultivation and from
economics to preparation techniques.
The CIA Bakery Café, San Antonio, TXComplete with a large picture window
that gives patrons a peek into the college’s
teaching kitchens, the CIA Bakery Café is
a destination for visitors at the revitalized
Pearl Brewery site in San Antonio. The
café offers a variety of light fare that
includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, and
features a selection of classic pastries made
with specialty items from Latin America
and Mexico. Led by Department Chair of
Baking and Pastry Arts Alain Dubernard
and Jake Griffin ’08, a graduate of the
college’s associate and bachelor’s degree
programs, the CIA Bakery Café offers San
Antonio residents a quick and easy way to
enjoy a light meal at the world’s premier
culinary college.
NAO Restaurant, San Antonio, TXThe newest addition to the pantheon of CIA
restaurants and cafés is the stunning and
inviting NAO restaurant. Led by Executive
Chef/Instructor in Culinary Arts Geronimo
Lopez-Monascal, NAO is offering foods that
reflect a culinary tapestry of Latin ingredients,
traditions, and culture. A spectacular showcase
for flavors of the New World, the menu features
Latin American dishes rooted in tradition and
creatively reinterpreted using new perspectives,
ingredients, and techniques. CIA students
will prepare fresh, seasonal plates that pay
homage to the great cuisines of Latin America.
Derived from the Latin root “neo,” meaning to
weave or intertwine, as well as the English root
meaning something new, NAO is a celebration
of tradition as well as innovation.
since you were a student at the Cia, we’ve made changes to the curriculum, facilities,
and student life offerings. and with a Cia education now available in new york,
texas, California, and singapore, it’s become necessary to provide even more
restaurant operations experience for our students. so, we’ve added some exciting
cafés and restaurants to our repertoire. if you get the chance, stop in to one of our
new student-run operations and taste the Cia!
If you’re ever in Italy driving
towards Rome from the north,
you might well be traveling
on the Via Salaria, or “salt
highway.” Scholars theorize that
the location of this ancient city
was governed by its proximity to
the salt marshes of Ostia, a town
at the mouth of the Tiber River
close to Rome. The far-reaching
importance of salt to people
throughout the ancient world—
and, in turn, economic, social, and political development—cannot
be overstated. This simple yet complex compound has been used
to extract moisture from perishable high-protein items as well as to
preserve and season our food. Of greater importance, then and now,
is that salt is a necessary nutrient that regulates the balance of fluid
in all living things.
The Origins of SaltSalt is a mixture of two minerals, sodium and chloride. Whether
evaporated from shallow ponds and marshes or mined from
underground deposits, it is marine-based. Windmills, an Arab
invention, have been used to pump seawater into shallow, clay-
bottom ponds throughout the Mediterranean for centuries. The water
is evaporated with the help of the sun and wind, leaving a mineral
whose flavor and color is derived from the clay, algae, and volcanic
ash in the environment.
Salt in the KitchenBecause of its purity and ease of use, kosher salt is used in most
professional kitchens. Originally named for its ability to draw out
blood and moisture in the koshering process, this salt’s crystals are
larger in size than normal table
salt crystals. During processing,
kosher salt is crystallized, giving
it a larger flake with flat sides that
adhere very well to food. Because
of its size, kosher salt absorbs
larger amounts of moisture than
table salt, making it beneficial in
curing and seasoning. Although
many brands of kosher salt are
pure salt, others have additives,
so it’s wise to check the label.
Salts from the SeaIn addition to kosher and table salt, sea salt is increasingly being
used in professional kitchens. Sought after for its delicate nuances in
flavor and texture, sea salt is available in a myriad of colors, flavors,
and prices; specialized varieties can sell for well over $100 a pound
and often taste like the environment from which they are harvested.
Flavors can be slightly sweet, sour, sulfury, smoky, or briny. More
expensive than its counterparts, sea salt should be used with a light
hand. It is often wasted when dissolved into a soup or vinaigrette and
is most efficiently applied to food as a finishing salt, at the very end.
A final dusting on a salad or a sprinkle over perfectly cooked seafood
adds a subtle flavor and textural contrast that strengthens and refines
the dish. Seasoning in this way uses less salt, which is beneficial to
those on a low-sodium diet.
Some interesting varieties of sea salt include:
Fleur de sel de Camargue
Hand-raked from the southern French waters of Camargue, this salt
has a dry, fine texture that is almost brittle.
By Mark Ainsworth ’86
SALTAn Essential Element
hawaiian alaea sea salt
Resembling the light brown alaea clay that is added during harvesting,
this salt is mellow in flavor and not very harsh. Because of the more
than 30 minerals found in the clay, the salt is thought to provide many
health benefits. Traditionally, this salt has been used in ceremonial
blessings.
trapani sea salt
Originating in Trapani, Sicily, this very pure, white, high-quality salt
is gathered in wheelbarrows, piled high, and covered in roofing tiles
until it is perfectly dry. Locally, it is used to cure wheels of sheep’s milk
ricotta cheese.
Jurassic sea salt
Marketed as a salt from the time of the dinosaur era when the sea
covered what is now the state of Utah, Jurassic sea salt is invigorating,
with an interesting texture and flavor.
Japanese suzushio sea salt
Found in the Ishikawa Prefecture (one of the governmental
jurisdictions of Japan), this premium salt has distinctive mineral
properties and is damp in texture. It graces the tables of exclusive
tempura restaurants, and the salt’s limited production adds to its
mystique and value.
smoked sea salt
Produced throughout the world, smoked sea salt has interesting
characteristics that come not only from the salt, but also from alder
wood and even old French oak wine barrels used in the smoking
process.
Salt and HealthThe majority of sodium in the typical American diet comes from
processed foods. The average American consumes more than twice
the United States Department of Agriculture’s recommendation of
2,300 mg (about 1 teaspoon) per day. For those with hypertension
(high blood pressure) or kidney ailments, a sodium-restricted diet
is important; others should be aware of the acceptable level of salt
intake.
You can reduce sodium in cooking by using fresh, bold, and intense
flavors, or by adding fresh herbs and spices to increase the food’s
appeal. When done correctly, less salt is needed to round off and finish
the dish. Vinegars, fruit and vegetable juices, and various sweeteners
also serve to reduce the amount of sodium required. Utilizing and
balancing the five basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami
creates focused and refined flavors.
Curing SalmonAside from its typical uses in the kitchen and dining room, salt is still
used to cure and brine a variety of items, including salmon. To prepare
cold-smoked salmon, pack the fillets in a mixture of 2 parts kosher salt
to 1 part brown sugar and a handful of spices. Following your local
health department regulations, cure the fillet under refrigeration for
about a day to draw out the moisture and make it safe to eat. After it
is cured, wash off the salt and sugar and leave the fish to dry to form
a skin, or pellicle; smoke sticks best to dry surfaces. Cold smoking is
best achieved at a temperature between 40 and 90 degrees F. There
are many reasonably priced units on the market specifically designed
for producing cold-smoked salmon. Quality characteristics include a
good flavor balance of salt, sweet, smoke, and fish. The salmon should
always be sliced thinly and served simply.
Vital to our Past and PresentFrom the days when people stepped out of the garden and began
relying on more than just vegetables to eat, salt has been an integral
and necessary part of daily life. Its ability to inhibit bacterial growth
allowed civilizations to focus less on food sustenance and more on
advancements and growth in other areas. In today’s modern kitchen,
we take salt for granted, but if it were to suddenly vanish, its loss to the
culinary world would be immeasurable.
Mark Ainsworth, PC III, CHE is a professor in culinary arts at the CIA.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com8
The title of this article may be somewhat misleading. We all know
that salt tastes, well, salty. But what does salt do for our perception
of flavor? That question has baffled both chefs and food scientists
for many years and we still do not fully understand the mechanics
of how salt functions.
Salt, or saltiness, is one of our primary tastes. We experience
it on our tongues and nowhere else. We cannot hear saltiness,
nor can we smell it. And while we can see it on a pretzel or
French fry, we cannot see it in a soup or sauce. For all that we
know, or think we know, about salt, we do not know how salt
functions either chemically or physically. And while we do have
some understanding, an actual receptor for salt has not yet been
identified. Clearly, discovering this elusive receptor would be a
significant key to helping us modulate how we use salt and lower
the amount of sodium we take in on a daily basis.
We know that salt acts as a flavor enhancer, mitigates bitter
elements, and makes foods taste richer and fuller. As chefs, we
often describe salt as a volume knob. Salt turns up the volume on
flavors that are already there. When driving down the highway,
if the highway noises overpower the radio we can simply turn
the volume up. But if we get to that point on the highway where
the local stations start to fade out, turning up the volume will not
help. Similarly, salt will turn up the volume on flavors that are
already well-developed. But if a food does not have well-developed
flavor, salt will only make that food salty, and not delicious.
Flavor development depends on an interaction of ingredients in
much the same way that good music depends on the interaction
of all of the instruments in an orchestra. Take the sound of a solo
violin. While nice, it is unadorned and straightforward. But add
a cello, harpsichord, and perhaps a soft flute to that violin and it
sounds more, well, violin-y.
Everyone knows that salt has been in the news lately, with new
recommended daily intake levels that may seem impossible to
achieve. The current Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
guidelines suggest that the average American should consume
no more than 2,300 mg of sodium per day—the equivalent of
about one teaspoon of table salt. This represents a more than
30% reduction in the average of 3,400 mg of sodium that most
Americans consume today. The challenge inherent in this type of
reduction is that the most significant sources of sodium are hidden
in our diets, and are not the salt that people add at the table or
when cooking.
Sensory Perception of SaltBy David Kamen ’88
Hidden IngredientTo understand hidden sodium
sources, one must
understand the
other functions
of salt that go
beyond flavor
enhancement.
Salt is a key
ingredient used
to inhibit bacterial
growth, regulate
fermentation, strengthen
proteins, and attract moisture.
And while we do not often
think of cheese, bread,
chicken breasts, or pork
chops as being significant
sources of sodium, they
contribute significantly to the
amount of salt that we
ingest every day.
Cheese makers
use salt to
control the
texture of their
cheese. More
salt makes a
chewier cheese
because of how
salt strengthens the
protein structure. Salt in
cheese works in conjunction with acidity,
alkalinity, and moisture content to increase shelf life by reducing
the number of unwanted bacteria and controlling the fermentation
process. A one-ounce slice of mozzarella cheese contains 177 mg of
sodium.
Bread makers also take advantage of the same properties. Today’s
consumers are craving more “artisan” style breads with thicker crusts
and deeper flavors. This can only be achieved by including significant
amounts of salt into the dough to help form strong gluten strands,
mise en place no.61, September 2012 9
which make the bread brown and crusty on the outside,
and chewy on the inside. Salt also controls the amount
of fermentation that the yeast produces, another critical
control in the creation of great bread. A typical four-ounce
French dinner roll has a shocking 609 mg of sodium.
Even the innocent boneless skinless chicken breast is
not immune to a hidden sodium attack. In an effort to
mitigate the drying effects of cooking chicken to the
high doneness temperatures recommended by
the FDA (165 degrees F.), many producers
are pumping chicken parts with up to a
15% solution of water, salt, and sodium
phosphate, among other possible
elements. The salt and sodium
phosphate bond with protein
molecules to trap moisture,
even at internal temperatures
of 170 degrees F. and higher.
A four-ounce portion of
“enhanced” or “moist
and tender” chicken
breast has 375 mg
of sodium.
Given this
information,
a simple
chicken and
mozzarella
sandwich
on a French
roll (without any
toppings or condiments)
contains 1,161 mg of sodium, or nearly
half of the recommended daily intake.
Add a bag of potato chips at 160 mg of
sodium and a half-sour pickle at another
260 mg, and you are consuming 1,581 mg
for one meal.
So, how do we understand how an item
like the sodium-rich French roll (609 mg
of sodium) doesn’t taste salty, while the bag
of potato chips (at a mere 160 mg) does? One
theory suggests it is the interaction of the sodium with the
other components of the product that hides its saltiness.
Nonetheless, it would appear that topical salt has a greater
impact than dissolved salt.
Reducing Salt Intake by Enhancing Salt SensationSea salts are growing in popularity. Many people are spending
the equivalent of more than $100 per pound on fancy sea salts
to use as topical finishing agents for salads, fried foods, and
even caramel and chocolate. It is suggested that because of
its random crystal structure, the salt melts on the palate at a
different rate, leaving the diner with a longer salt sensation
than they would have gotten from either table or kosher salt.
However, sensory evaluation tests conducted at the CIA
concluded that once a sea salt is dissolved into a matrix like
mashed potatoes, chicken broth, tomato juice, or lima bean
purée, diners had a difficult time distinguishing them from
simple kosher salt. Furthermore, the thicker and more complex
the matrix, the more salt it took before tasters considered the
product “salty enough.”
Another school of thought is that much of the topical salt in
foods like potato chips or French fries is not dissolved on
the tongue, but rather swallowed intact. This would amount
to wasted sodium because it does not have the opportunity to
impact our flavor perception, but does become absorbed into
our bloodstream. Given this, researchers are experimenting
with smaller crystal sizes that will dissolve faster on our
palates, thus giving more bang for the sodium buck. By
creating a salt crystal that is smaller and will dissolve faster,
manufacturers can use less salt to create the same flavor
perception.
Interestingly enough, although sodium is targeted, it is thought
that the chloride gives us the flavor-enhancing quality of salt.
Salt substitutes are often made of potassium chloride instead
of sodium chloride. These potassium-based salts have a
similar flavor perception but are often associated with a bitter
aftertaste. While potassium-based salt is a potentially effective
alternative flavor enhancer, its functionality is still being
investigated.
Despite what we do know about sodium, there is still a great
deal more to learn. One thing that is clear is that sodium
reduction is not going to be as simple as finding an alternative
flavor enhancer. Because of salt’s functionality as an ingredient,
we are going to need a deeper understanding of how salt and
food systems interact. Until then, we should carefully monitor
our diets and our ingredients for hidden sodium sources and
think strategically about how we add salt to our food.
David Kamen, PC III is currently project manager for CIA Consulting.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com10
CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng is no stranger to the
Sichuan peppercorn and its flavor-enhancing properties. In a recent
article for mise en place magazine, she wrote about Huajiao: The Secret to
Sichuan Cuisine. (See MEP 52, June 2010). Here she revisits the Sichuan
peppercorn and the flavor principles of “mala”—which combine the
Sichuan peppercorn (ma) with
chili pepper (la)—to see if it
can be applied to reduce salt
in the quick-service restaurant
favorite, the French fry. Her
preliminary research suggests
that the mala flavor profile
can be incorporated into
a seasoning blend to lower
the amount of salt needed to
appeal to the everyday diner.
Putting Flavor First to Lower SaltSalt, also known as sodium
chloride, is a ubiquitous and
versatile seasoning found in kitchens around the world. As health risks
associated with dietary sodium becomes increasingly evident, retail
and foodservice operations are working to lower salt levels in popular
foods without compromising customer satisfaction or overall flavor.
Chef Cheng has taken a flavor-focused culinary strategy to address
this issue, and is using the Sichuan mala flavor profile to season the
popular quick-service offering. Her objective sensory studies indicate
that Sichuan peppercorns and chili peppers can be incorporated
into seasoning blends resulting in the use of 33% less salt while not
compromising “liking.”
Salt’s Role in Flavor and HealthSodium chloride (NaCl) is an important seasoning used to augment
the flavor of food. Salt can enhance flavors in meat, suppress
bitterness in vegetables, and increase consumption and enjoyment
of nutritious food. It also preserves meat and vegetables, facilitates
Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce Salt
protein denaturation, increases water-binding capacity, and controls
fermentation in many preparations. However, it has long been known
that a diet high in salt is positively correlated with hypertension and
an increase in the risk of heart disease, stroke, and kidney disease. So,
although the recommended daily allowance set by the Department
of Agriculture’s Health
and Human Services is
2,300 mg of sodium, recent
recommendations have been
made to lower the average
daily sodium intake to
1,500 mg.
Strategies for Reducing Sodium in Menu ItemsMajor sources of sodium
in the U.S. diet come from
“processed” and restaurant
food, comprising 70–85% of
sodium intake for the average
American. In response to
health concerns, the food industry has been researching sodium-
reduction strategies to provide “healthier” options while maintaining
consistency in quality and taste. Some examples of these include:
• Reducing salt gradually over time
• Using lower-sodium salt options such as potassium chloride and
naturally low-sodium sea salts
• Reducing portion size
• Incorporating produce with inherently lower sodium levels into
recipes
• Incorporating more herbs and spices to enhance flavor
However, objective sensory testing and consumer evaluation of
these strategies, by chefs and scientists collectively, are needed to
demonstrate efficacy and feasibility of these approaches.
mise en place no.61, September 2012 11
Opportunity for “Mala” to Lower SodiumChinese regional cuisines are increasing in popularity, but are not
fully understood among American culinary professionals. Mala is a
compound flavor profile that distinguishes Sichuan cuisine from those
of other regions in China. This signature flavor of Sichuan cuisine is
applied to broths, meat, fish, and vegetables. The sensory experience
involves two simultaneous chemisthetic effects: numbing or “cooling”
due to the sanshool in the huajiao, and “heating” due to the capsaicin
in the chili. Mala-seasoned dishes can be described as producing
“flavor waves” of alternating burning and numbing sensations that
stimulate appetite and enhance enjoyment.
Chef Cheng hypothesized that mala could be incorporated into a
seasoning blend for French fries, allowing for a reduction in salt
without a negative impact on enjoyment. She chose French fries
because they are a popular comfort food in the U.S. and one of the
most common items found on restaurant menus. In addition, the
National Salt Reduction Initiative established by New York City’s
Department of Health and Hygiene has identified French fries as a
high-risk food that requires a 30% reduction in sodium from 347 mg
to 240 mg, over the next three years.
To test her hypothesis, Chef Cheng worked with Dr. Chris Loss
’93 to design an objective sensory study evaluating the effects of
her seasoning blend on overall “liking” and “perceived saltiness”
of French fries. Sensory ballots were created that used a line scale
to convert consumers’ perceptions of liking and taste intensity into
a numeric value. This enables statistical analysis to be applied to
determine if the observed effects are “significant.” French fries
were seasoned with a standard ratio of salt (5.7g of salt/lb of French
fries), and compared to those seasoned with less salt (3.8g of salt +
1.9g of mala spice blend/lb of French fries). The mala blend used is
considered mild by traditional Sichuan cuisine standards.
Seventeen culinary students participated in the blind taste test.
Significant differences in liking and salty taste intensity were
determined using a statistical method referred to as an analysis of
variance. The French fries seasoned with mala were equally well-liked
compared to the traditional salt-only seasoning. However, the perceived
saltiness was significantly lower for the mala sample compared to the
traditional salt-only seasoning.
In addition, general comments provided by the tasters (qualitative
data) during the taste test indicated that the mala spice blend added
a welcome layer of complexity that improved the overall eating
experience of the French fries. Descriptors of mala-seasoned French
fries included “refreshing,” “savory,” “satisfying,” “more depth,” and
“lemony tingle.”
To determine if the results can be replicated, these tests will be
conducted on a broader population of consumers. However, in a
test with a different group of tasters, Chef Cheng obtained similar
results when seasoning fried chicken with a mala spice blend. These
preliminary results augur well for a larger study that she is planning to
conduct with additional funding through the CIA Menu Research and
Flavor Discovery Initiative. Chef Cheng will attempt to find the ideal
level of mala seasoning and salt to make the greatest impact on flavor
and sodium reduction. She will also evaluate her spice formulations at
the college’s fast-casual dining setting for students, the Courtside Café.
This approach is an example of how chefs and scientists can work
together to better understand their consumers and the flavor
functionality of ingredients. These results should lend confidence
to chefs who have their own flavor-focused culinary strategies for
lowering salt in foods.
References for the research in this article can be found online at
http://menuscience.ciachef.edu/node/529.
All research was conducted by CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng.
salt, siChuan pepperCorn, and Chili a less salty but equally satisFyinG FrenCh Fry
www.ciaalumninetwork.com12
Tasting Success by Cutting Salt
25 Science-Based Strategies and Culinary Insights
The Big Picture: Total Diet Focus
1. Downsize your portionsA good rule of thumb is that the more calories a meal has, the more
sodium it has. So skip the supersize. Share a dish when dining out.
You can cut your salt—and trim your waist.
2. Practice “produce first”Our bodies need more potassium than sodium. Fruits and vegetables
are naturally low in sodium, and many fruits and vegetables are good
sources of potassium. Filling your plate with them will boost your
potassium and shift the sodium-potassium balance in your favor.
3. Get freshProcessed foods and prepared foods are the greatest sources of sodium
in the American diet—75% by some estimates. Choose unprocessed and
minimally processed foods.
4. Embrace healthy fats and oilsUnfortunately, the big low-fat and no-fat product push in the ’90s
wasn’t rooted in sound science. Many product developers cut both
the good and bad fats out and increased levels of sugar and sodium
By The Department of Nutrition, Harvard School of Public Health & The Culinary Institute of America
The Institute of Medicine’s recent report, Strategies to
Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States, focuses on big-
picture strategies for reining in America’s salt habit. While
the report’s recommendations represent an essential step
forward, there are many things that individuals, chefs, and
organizations can do right now to reduce sodium.
Consumers can use these tips when they cook at home,
shop in the supermarket, or choose a meal at their favorite
restaurant. Chefs and product developers can tap these
ideas in the professional kitchen. Many of these guidelines
offer a “stealth health” approach to sodium reduction—ways
that sodium can be reduced with no change or minimal
change to consumer food experiences or choices. Others
suggest ways to rebalance and re-imagine food choices as
well as introduce new foods that can easily translate into
satisfying meals. No sodium reduction effort will succeed
if it undermines the flavor of our foods and the role that
food plays in our lives. That’s why we urge a wide-ranging,
innovative approach to sodium reduction, one that puts as
much emphasis on culinary insight, taste, and flavor as on
the scientific and public health imperatives.
mise en place no.61, September 2012 13
to maintain consumer acceptance. Embrace healthy fat—it might be
just the ticket to make produce-centric—and sodium-reduced—cooking
more appealing.
Salt, Perception, and Psychology
5. Employ stealth healthFor many foods and preparations, the average person can’t detect
differences in sodium levels, including reductions of up to as much
as 25 percent. That’s great news. Many food manufacturers and
restaurant companies have already made—or are in the process of
making—substantial cuts in sodium that their customers will not be
able to detect.
6. Retrain your taste budsStudies have found that we can shift our sense of taste to enjoy foods
with lower levels of sodium. One key to success: make the changes
gradually and consistently over a period of time. Try combining a
reduced sodium version of a favorite product with a regular version in
proportions that gradually favor the reduced sodium version. As time
goes on, you won’t miss the salt.
7. Try a little romanceInstead of calling something “low sodium,” try language like “with a
touch of sea salt,” “citrus-infused,” or “garlic-scented,” and you’ll likely
entice more people to taste and enjoy reduced-sodium dishes.
Know Your Salt Facts, Ask Questions
8. Target high-volume sodium sourcesKnow which ingredients and individual foods are high in sodium, and
eat them sparingly. Salt is ubiquitous in the American diet, but this top
10 list of food sources of sodium is a good place to focus.
Meat-topped Pizza White bread Processed cheese
Hot dogs Spaghetti with sauce Ham
Catsup Cooked rice White rolls
Flour tortillas
9. Scan the labelLook for foods with less than 300 milligrams of sodium per serving.
But pay attention to serving sizes, as they are often unrealistically
small. A good rule of thumb for label reading is to look for no more
than one milligram of sodium per one calorie of food.
10. Compare, compare, compareSodium levels vary widely for the same or similar grocery items.
Compare brands of processed food, including breads, cured meats,
cheeses, and snack foods, choosing those with the lowest levels of
sodium that still taste good. You’ll find that there’s a surprising degree
of variation from brand to brand.
11. Watch out for hidden sodium“Fresh” and “natural” meats and poultry may be injected with salt
solutions as part of their processing. Manufacturers are not required
to list the sodium content on the label. Find out whether your favorite
brand has been treated with a salt solution by asking the grocer or
butcher, or calling the toll-free consumer hotline on the product’s
label.
12. Seek low-salt menu options when dining outIt is common to find sandwiches and fast-food entrées with 2,000–
2,500 milligrams of sodium per serving—as much as or more than
a day’s recommended sodium intake. Check restaurant websites for
sodium information before you head out, or ask your server to steer
you to low-salt choices.
Flavor Strategies and Culinary Insights
13. Farm for flavorAt a time when we have “over-delivered” on the promise of affordable
calories, and both salt and sugar (and all refined carbohydrates) are
turning out to have serious negative health consequences, we need
to refocus our attention on enhancing natural flavors. This means
growing more flavorful tomatoes at the same time we try to reduce
the sodium in tomato soup.
14. Know your seasons and your local farmerShop for raw ingredients with maximum natural flavor, thereby
avoiding the need to add as much, if any, sodium. Seek out peak-of-
season produce from farmers’ markets and your local supermarket.
15. Spice it upOne of the easiest ways to reduce the need for added salt is through
the use of ingredients such as spices, dried and fresh herbs, roots like
garlic and ginger, citrus, vinegars, and wine. These flavor enhancers
create excitement on the palate—and can do it with less sodium.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com1414
16. Go nuts for healthy fats in the kitchenUsing the right healthy fats—from roasted nuts and avocados to
olive, canola, soybean, and other oils—can help make up for any
flavor loss from using less salt. Roasted nuts ground with spices
extend and leverage small amounts of salt, such as in the Middle
Eastern spice mixture dukkah.
17. Try the flavor multiplier—umamiFoods that are naturally high in a compound called L-glutamate
trigger our umami taste receptors. Cooked chicken, fish, beef, and
soybeans are naturally high in umami, as are mushrooms, tomatoes,
seaweed, carrots, and Chinese cabbage. Incorporating these foods
into meals can add a delicious depth of flavor without adding
salt. Some foods that are high in umami are also high in sodium,
including soy sauce, fish sauce, aged cheeses, miso, and anchovy
paste. Use these ingredients in small amounts instead of adding salt,
reducing the overall sodium in the dish.
18. Use cooking methods that help spare the salt Take the time to learn some simple cooking techniques that can
make your cooking less reliant on sodium. Searing, sautéing, and
roasting all build flavor.
19. Spend that sodium budget wiselySave your “sodium budget” to enhance the flavors of produce, whole
grains, nuts and legumes, and other healthy ingredients versus
“overspending” it on salty snacks, heavily processed food, high-
sodium fast foods, and other foods that we should be consuming in
smaller amounts.
20. Watch your condimentsPickles, capers, cured meats, grated aged cheeses, mustard, catsup,
soy sauce, hot sauce, smoked fish, and other condiments and
specialty foods all bring added satisfaction to the table. In some
cases, reduced sodium versions of these are now available; in other
cases, we can just use them more sparingly.
21. Go global Look to global culinary traditions—from Europe and the
Mediterranean, Latin America, Asia, and Africa—for healthy ideas.
Because many of these world culinary traditions build up flavor
in such novel, complex, and intriguing ways, cooks are under less
pressure to use as much sodium.
22. Cook without layering on the sodiumAvoid “double salting” your foods when cooking, and look for ways to
pair salted flavors with unsalted or under-salted foods, especially fresh
produce. For example, if you are adding a ham bone to a soup pot,
lighten up on the sodium for the rest of the soup. A pot of brown rice
or whole grain pasta doesn’t need to be salted if you are serving it with
other adequately seasoned items or sauces.
23. Rinse, wash, and diluteCut some of the excess sodium in processed foods with no loss of flavor
by draining and rinsing canned foods. In the case of canned beans,
cooks can cut 40 percent of the sodium with this trick. When making
soup, dilute reduced sodium chicken broth with water or wine instead of
using it full strength, and float in some additional vegetables and herbs.
24. Enjoy whole grainsEven whole grain bread can contain considerable sodium. But only part
of the sodium in bread is for taste. Much of it is used to help the bread-
making process and preserve the final results. You can skip that extra
salt when you use these marvelous whole grains by themselves. Try a
Mediterranean-inspired whole grain salad with chopped vegetables,
nuts, and legumes, and perhaps a small amount of cheese, herbs and
spices, healthy oil, and vinegar or citrus. You can enjoy many of the
same flavors you love in a sandwich, but in a delicious new form that has
much less sodium.
25. Kick the “auto-salt” habitAlways taste your food before you salt it. Try taking the saltshaker off
the table and making it available “upon request only.” In the kitchen,
add salt late in the cooking process. Foods release their flavors (and
salt, in the case of salted ingredients) during the cooking process, and
“palate fatigue” on the part of the cook can cause over-salting if this is
undertaken too early.
More Research: By Scientists, Chefs, and Other Flavor StakeholdersGiven how vital sodium reduction is, and how embedded sodium is in
our food supply, culinary techniques, flavor strategies, manufacturing
methods, and marketing assumptions, it is essential that we conduct
additional research to shed more light on which sodium reduction
strategies are most effective. With the benefit of this research, we will be
better positioned to create reduced sodium flavors and food choices that
consumers find not just acceptable, but compelling.
This piece was excerpted from the original article co-authored by Harvard School
of Public Health and The Culinary Institute of America.
15
Following the Presidential TrailBeing a crusader is part of a college president’s role. Every
time President Ryan speaks to a group or company to
engage them in our mission to provide the best culinary
education, he’s crusading for our students. Every time he
visits our partners in education, he’s crusading for long-term
projects that support and distinguish the college. Every time
he educates groups about the CIA’s leadership initiatives,
he’s crusading for widespread change. For Tim, the work
of ensuring that our students, college, and community are
working together at the highest level is a crusade that never
ends. Here are some of his recent efforts on behalf of the CIA.
CIA Capitol Hill ReceptionOn Wednesday, May 16, the CIA hosted a Capitol Hill
Reception at the United States Capitol Visitor Center.
There, in front of senators and their senior aides, he shared
information about the college’s leadership initiatives in the
areas of nutrition and public health. In addition, he spoke
about how the CIA continues to set the gold standard in
professional education.
This reception was part of
the college’s effort to build
awareness in Congress
and other government
agencies about the CIA.
Ultimately, Tim is hoping
this will garner federal
financial support for
our strategic initiatives.
As always, alumni were
there to support the CIA.
Jeffrey Buben ’78 of
Vidalia and Bistro Bis,
and Albert Lukas ’91,
corporate executive chef
for Restaurant Associates,
provided the tasting at
the event.
Hotel Ezra Cornell Our longtime academic partners at the Cornell School of Hotel
Administration hold Hotel Ezra Cornell every year. It is a
three-day event that serves as a practical exam for seniors in the
program to practice the skills they have learned in the classroom
and to showcase their talents to industry professionals. They
completely take over operations of Cornell’s Statler Hotel. For
Tim, it was an important opportunity to touch base with our
partners at Cornell, raise the CIA flag, and re-connect with
colleagues in the industry.
Senator Schumer Supports CIA Initiatives One of the issues Tim champions is Hudson Valley enrichment
and development. He has worked tirelessly to engage N.Y. Senator
Chuck Schumer to advocate for the college around programs and
projects that will benefit the entire region. Recently he hosted
Senator Schumer on the Hyde Park campus, where the senator
spoke about supporting a CIA facility—the new Marriott Pavilion—
in the hopes that it will serve as a nexus of CIA activities in
support of both local farmers and food manufacturers.
president tim ryan and ConGressman ChuCK sChumer stride throuGh the halls oF the senate buildinG
www.ciaalumninetwork.com16
two students sitting around and brainstorming is how the World diversity
Festival got started. Damien “Juice” Williams and Eric Jenkins ‘11 got to
talking about how diverse the Cia campus was and how important it
would be to promote and embrace that diversity. their idea was to have
a three-day festival held on the hyde park campus. but during the early
phases of planning, damien suddenly and tragically passed away. eric took
time to grieve for his friend and then decided the best way to pay tribute
to him was to carry on. and so, this past may, after much hard work and
the help of assistant professor in Culinary arts David McCue ’93 and
externship advisor maura o’meara, eric made real the dream he’d had
with his good friend.
the goal of the festival was to raise awareness of diversity through
education, poetry, culinary competitions, and the simple enjoyment of
sharing food.
Day 1:an interested group gathered to hear Gerry Fernandez, president and
founder of the multicultural Foodservice and hospitality alliance (mFha),
speak about managing the dynamics of a diverse workforce. his energetic
delivery held everyone captivated as
he shared his thoughts on everything
from maintaining self-worth in the
hospitality industry to working with
diverse cultures to
making the industry a
better place.
that evening, the Word
poetry Club, headed by
its president, eric Jenkins,
held a poetry slam
entitled “spoken soul,”
a tribute to damien, who had founded the club. damien’s
mother, Cheryl Williams, was in attendance. more than 70
students came out to express themselves through poetry,
My Poetrydamien,
poetry does not feel the same.
Words people speak no longer flow.
my pen to paper keeps coming out blank.
you have gone and taken poetry with you.
sometimes it hits me hard,
sometimes i’m okay.
but anything poetry reminds me of you.
no one can ever speak words with as much
passion.
you used normal words that went through
my soul like daggers.
your performance of poetry was so unique
and strong.
you were so great i could barely watch,
i’d turn my head to hide my smile
but if you only knew, how proud i was.
you are and always will be,
my poetry.
mise en place no.61, September 2012 17
music, and comedy, or just to listen.
breaana quinones shared her feelings
about the loss of her friend in a poem (see
page 16).
Day 2:out on anton plaza, a block party was
going on that featured the many diverse
clubs we have on campus. Club members
made delicious assortments of food that
ranged from traditional pretzels with two
types of dipping sauce to delicacies from
india. in all, 19 clubs participated in the
block party.
also on saturday, stage one and stage
two of the Walk around the World
Fusion Cooking Competition was held.
the two-day event was supported in
no small measure by american roland
Food Corporation. the company donated
product for use during the competition
as well as $1,000 toward the grand prize.
Wegmans also had a presence in Chef
Kevin Grenzig ’78, who served as a judge.
eight teams began the first stage of
the contest of culinary prowess with a
30-minute Knife skills tray. participants
made batonnet, medium dice, brunoise,
chiffonade, and tourné under the watchful
and critical eye of the judges.
stage two, a quick-Fire appetizer
Competition, lasted 60 minutes, during
which eight teams each received 3–5
ingredients that had to be used in an
appetizer. Competition was steep, as
everyone knew that only four teams
would progress to the finals on sunday.
Day 3:stage three of the Walk around the
World Fusion Cooking Competition gave
the remaining teams—“a” Game, stew,
smokin’ aces, and le Coq rouge—a mere
“Understanding and developing a more diverse nation through food—one plate at a time.”World Diversity Festival theme
120 minutes to prepare an entrée and dessert
that reflected the cuisine of two countries.
they discovered which two countries they
would be “representing” by picking national
flags right after the stage two competition
ended! team “a” Game, the ultimate winner,
managed to accrue $1,800 of prize money by
winning each of the three stages of the event,
the student club Friends of Chabad association
provided a kosher lunch for the participants
and spectators who came out to share the
final day of competition. While the cooking
was taking place, a Jeopardy-style quiz game
netted some lucky contestants cash, books,
visa gift cards, and other assorted prizes.
it was a full three days—full of emotion for
a lost friend, full of learnings from an expert
guest speaker, full of healthy competition, full
of great food, and full of fun! eric has begun
planning next year’s event and already knows
that it will be even bigger and better.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com18
What challenges did you face when creating the CIA Bakery Café? First, I have to say that we are a fantastic team here. Chef
David Kellaway, CMC, our managing director, and Chef
Jake Griffin ’08, our café manager, have been an invaluable
part of the process. Collaborating with hard-working people
with heart and passion makes the challenges easier to
handle. The first big challenge we had was to find the correct
people to build the back- and front-of-the-house teams.
Also, as with any other opening, we faced problems with
equipment delivery and the correct functioning and pertinent
adjustments to the machines. Finally, finding the right
suppliers of raw materials, packaging, etc. was challenging.
What surprised you most in launching the café? I don’t know if I would call it a surprise, but the response
of the people to different textures, new flavors, and items
that are mostly smaller than what people are used to here
in Texas has been great. It was also interesting to see that
while people did not go crazy for Mexican-style breakfast
breads like conchas or cocoles, they did fall in love with our
croissant!
An Interview with Alain Dubernard, CMB, CHE
Creating the
as anyone in the business can testify, starting up a new restaurant or bakery is both exhilarating and stressful. alain
dubernard knows the feeling well. the department chair for baking and pastry arts at the Cia san antonio (and former
instructor and associate dean at the hyde park campus), Chef dubernard opened the Cia bakery Café at the texas campus
in early 2011. here, he gives us a taste of what it took to make that happen—and to earn the café a “best bakery” nod
from the critics at the San Antonio Express-News.
CheF alain dubernard
mise en place no.61, September 2012 19
In what ways is your customer base in San Antonio different from the one that frequents the Apple Pie Bakery Café at the Hyde Park, NY campus? There is no way to compare our customers to the ones in Hyde
Park. We do not have the internal customers—faculty, staff, and
students—that they do there, or the tourists. Our customer universe
in San Antonio is local, and composed of different niches. For our
breakfast breads, we have regulars who work or study close by, and
for lunch, we have a wider audience that includes people who work
for the medical centers, the Army, and many other organizations.
And for our pastries, we have people from all over San Antonio
who come in.
How have these differences influenced your menu? Your operational strategy? We have positioned the CIA Bakery Café as the best pastry shop
in the city. And so we offer the best coffee and the best pastries, we
must be innovative, and we have to be raising the bar as needed.
Our marketing strategies are different as well; we need to convince
our customers to keep coming back to us, and this happens when
everything is excellent in terms of service and products.
What is your vision for the future of the CIA Bakery Café and for baking and pastry education at the CIA San Antonio?We have to keep working hard and taking care of details in order
to keep the CIA Bakery Café excellent in every aspect. The café is
ultimately the image for the baking and pastry arts curriculum here in
San Antonio, and I am very optimistic and sure that the baking and
pastry program will be very successful.
Anything else you’d like mise en place readers to know? I just want to invite all our alumni to our great campus here in San
Antonio. We have a nice mix of courses going on for professionals in
baking and pastry arts, as well as in culinary arts. We are a very good
team that is committed to education, and I can say that it would be an
invaluable experience for any professional in the industry.
To learn more and take a video tour of the CIA Bakery Café hosted
by Chefs Dubernard and Griffin, visit www.ciarestaurants.com.
The café is open Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m.–5 p.m.
and Sunday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.
Register for courses at the CIA San Antonio at
www.ciaprochef.com/programs.
Alain Dubrnard is department chair—baking and pastry arts at
CIA San Antonio.
Cia baKery CaFé shelves ready For Customers CaFé manaGer JaKe GriFFin
www.ciaalumninetwork.com20
On a calm March morning that held the promise of a warm day ahead,
12 teams of eager young culinarians filed into the Student Recreation
Center’s banquet kitchen, ready to prove they were “worth their
salt” when it came to chowder brewing. The stakes were high, as gift
certificates, autographed books, and cash prizes as large as $1,000
awaited the winners. Everyone had their eyes on the prize!
Each team had one hour to produce its chowder. Chef
John Reilly ’88 was on the prowl, ever watchful for any
breaches of professionalism or food safety. While for
some teams, the pressure was intense, Team “Captain
Hook, Line, & Sinker” stayed calm. “The kitchen was great!”
they all nodded in agreement, and cited the timelines they
had carefully created and the constant
communication they maintained with
each other. Almost every team agreed
that a proper chowder should include
a roux, dairy products, and fish fumet.
Some teams opted for making lobster
stock, while others roasted their fish and
shellfish for a meatier flavor. Most teams
included bacon in their recipe, and crab
seemed to be the shellfish of choice.
A number of the event judges were
CIA alumni faculty. They included
Paul DelleRose ’94, John Fischer
’88, Morey Kanner ’84, John
Kowalski ’77, and John
Reilly ’88. All of the judges
methodically considered each
chowder. Students filtered in
and out of the gym excitedly,
predicting the outcomes as they
waited for the public tasting
to begin.
From table to table you
could find evidence of
culinary creativity and
experimentation. Team “All
About the Crab” had created a crab cake-inspired soup. Team “Bikini
Bottom Dwellers” had prepared a bagel and lox chowder with smoked
salmon and salmon roe. “Fish 3 Ways” gave traditional chowder a
Brazilian spin with bacalao. “Sea Pearls” utilized roasted crab shells in
their stock. And Team “We Don’t Have Crabs” used only ingredients
that were in season locally.
Additional competitions included potato dicing, oyster shucking,
and oyster eating. After the shucking contest, Chef Corky Clark
’71 dressed the newly shucked oysters with a diabolically hot
salsa he and his MITs created. It included raw garlic;
onions; shallots; and habañero, Scotch bonnet, and
jalepeño peppers. The spellbound audience watched
as 18 oyster-eating contest participants happily—and
not so happily—slurped down mollusk after mollusk.
As the awards were about to be presented, the tension
in the gym was palpable. Here’s how it all came out:
Showmanship Award: Team “Captain
Hook, Line, & Sinker”
People’s Choice Award: Team
“Soup-a-Stars”
Third Place: Team “Captain Hook,
Line, & Sinker”
Second Place: Team “Jajajiences”
First Place: Team “Soup-a-Stars”
As the crowd dispersed, full and happy,
into the warm afternoon sunlight, the
tired but jubilant teams returned to their
booths to congratulate one another
and dismantle their displays.
The 11th Annual Chowder
Cook-off had been a
culinary and crowd-
pleasing success.
Natalie Singer is a candidate for
an associate degree in culinary arts
(anticipated May 2013).
By Natalie Singer
Chow Down at the Chowder Cook-Off
The Worlds of FlavorInternational Conference
& Festival
Join more than 60 chefs and food authorities to discover Join more than 60 chefs and food authorities to discover
new and ancient flavors from the Mediterranean to South-
east Asia, with stops in Morocco, Spain, Sicily, Israel,
Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Indonesia, Singapore, Korea,
and much more—over 20 countries represented!
The Worlds of Flavor® International Conference & Festival
is widely acknowledged as our country’s most influential
professional forum on world cuisines, food cultures, and
flavor trends.
REEIMAGINING CULINARY EXCHANGE, FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN AND MIDDLE EAST TO ASIA
®
Register today at WorldsOfFlavor.comNAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA | NOVEMBER 113, 2012
www.ciaalumninetwork.com22
For a culture of innovation to flourish, it must be nurtured
through committed, visionary leadership. With that in mind,
the CIA and Hormel Foods Corporation created the Culinary
Enrichment and Innovation Program (CEIP) to develop the
leadership potential of rising stars in the foodservice industry.
Having graduated its first two classes, in 2010 and 2012, the
CEIP is already generating positive ripple effects of change in
the industry. That should come as no surprise; not only do CEIP
participants have the opportunity to apply innovative thought
in practical applications while at the CIA, they also bring
invaluable knowledge back to their organizations. In addition to
the insights they gain from their expert instructors, they learn
just as much from each other. Because their classmates come
from virtually every segment of the industry, they discover whole
new ways of looking at problems and solutions.
Four of these professionals share their thoughts on the program
and how it has changed their approach to leadership and
innovation.
Greg strickland, CeC, Cdm, CFpp
As executive chef for Vi at Highlands Ranch, Greg
Strickland and his crew of 22 are responsible for
creating and delivering exciting, healthful menus
for the residents of the Colorado senior living
community. So the health and wellness module of
CEIP was invaluable.
Light bulbs have been going off all over the
place. My focus at Vi is on healthy cooking, so
one was, “Don’t cook health food. People don’t like it and they don’t
want to be told what to do.” Instead, focus on making darn good food.
Getting old is about loss—of a spouse, your friends, your independence.
So the idea that I can still prepare the things the residents like is very
important. Instead of taking things away, you add some beans to a
soup, some leafy greens to a meatloaf dinner. One of the biggest things
we learned in CEIP is to not be afraid of fat and salt, but instead, to
use them last. That was mind-blowing for me.
The culinary industry, and especially the senior living segment, can
Innovation Through Leadership
Reflections on the Culinary Enrichment and Innovation ProgramBy Shelly Loveland
mise en place no.61, September 2012 23
become calcified. I’m really proud of what I do and I want to be sure
that senior living is just as cutting edge as anything else in foodservice.
What intrigued me about CEIP was the idea of helping to shape
tomorrow. That’s how I feel about what we’re doing here.
denise baron herrera
Denise Baron Herrera is vice president of food and
beverage for the Massachusetts-based Burtons Grill,
where she oversees back-of-the-house operations for
the company’s multiple locations. Her responsibilities
include developing menus, training staff, monitoring
quality, and negotiating purchasing deals.
CEIP made me look at more aspects of the
leadership role. I’ve taken things I learned at the
CIA to educate and elevate my staff. It’s important to have ongoing
education for servers, line cooks, and sous chefs, as well as myself, so
I’ve set up monthly training meetings to help all of us stay current.
I worked with the CEO to put together training modules, from
purchasing to receiving to recipe execution.
I really liked the leadership module of CEIP. The discussion led by
Steve Binder from Hormel about having succession and development
plans was really important for us because we are a young organization;
I co-founded Burtons six years ago. So I took those lessons home.
CEIP is definitely a valuable experience; I would love to do it again.
Christopher Culp
Christopher Culp is manager of food and beverage
concepts and innovation for InterContinental Hotels
Group in Atlanta, GA. There, he creates concepts and
operational platforms for the group’s hotels, including
developing recipes, menu concepts, and catering
platforms, and doing front- and back-of-the-house
consulting.
As a chef it is hard to put a finger on what areas
you need to learn from a culinary standpoint to help propel your
career. In this program, they’re doing a great job of showing us new
things. The subjects covered in CEIP would be an asset to any chef.
The program has so much to offer—it bridges the gap between the
kitchen and the boardroom. Going from sous chef to executive chef
is a big step, but going from executive chef to a culinary operations
position is a huge leap, and the CEIP can facilitate that.
In CEIP, you get a better sense of the culinary world, but from
a broader stance. This is important to me—to be able to be an
ambassador and convey the passion to people outside the industry, and
work with hotel people at our different properties to convince them of
the importance of their food and beverage operations.
Jonna anne
As the executive chef for the State University of New
York, Geneseo College in Geneseo, NY, Jonna Anne
sets the culinary vision for a university community
with approximately 5,000 students. This includes
everything from recipes to training trends to a campus
dining renovation.
CEIP changed my approach to my job in terms
of looking at it from more of a global perspective,
taking into consideration all the research that’s going on now, and the
focus on chefs serving healthy food. I consider how we can help shape
and change how kids eat. We focus on flavor and what students like,
while also asking ourselves, “Could we replace the heavy cream in this
dish with skim milk?”
CEIP is not just another cooking class. You learn to think through
problems and situations and define how we can direct them as leaders.
The strategic planning topic was a huge help in terms of organizing
our culinary team, training my staff on how to think strategically, and
seeing trends.
Since taking the program, I’m more comfortable and confident. I
learned a lot while I was at the CIA, and even now, I have times where
I encounter a situation and realize, “Oh, that’s what they meant.” It’s a
continuation of what I learned.
Shelly Loveland is a writer/editor in the CIA’s Creative Services department.
CEIP at a Glance The CEIP is comprised of four intense three-day modules
held over the course of 18 months. Each provides a
mix of classroom learning, one-on-one interaction with
industry leaders, and hands-on kitchen work:
•Flavor Dynamics and Flavor Exploration
•Contemporary Approach to Health and Wellness
•Leadership and Innovation Strategies
• Innovative Menu Development for Profitable
Operations
Graduates are certified by the CIA and become members
of the Hormel Circle of Innovation, an influential network
of chefs who participate in ongoing learning and dialog.
To learn more, visit www.ceipinfo.com. Applications
for the CEIP Class of 2014 will be accepted beginning
September 1, 2012.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com24
Book Shelf Chefs Can Save the WorldHow to Green Restaurants and Why They Are the Key to Renewing the Food System
By Jeremy Chase Barlow ’97
Jeremy Barlow is chef and
owner of Tayst, the first
and only three-star green
certified restaurant in
Nashville, TN. In this
book he reveals his
evolving passion for
all things local, sustainable, and
green. Readers will benefit from Jeremy’s research
and experience as he takes the everyday restaurateur through
the “how tos” of greening his or her business. He offers tips on
everything from finding the best energy-efficient light bulbs to using
beeswax candles for atmosphere to being sure you are sourcing fish
responsibly. Jeremy presents a realistic view of the gradual changes
that everyone in the foodservice industry can embrace.
Crete: The Roots of the Mediterranean DietBy Nikki Rose ’94
This tiny book
has a big message
for people who
are interested
in enjoying the advantages
of a healthy Mediterranean diet and learning
more about the cuisine of Crete. Nikki Rose, a longtime
resident of Greece, shows readers how to use readily available
ingredients to capture healthful flavors in a unique way. This
book takes you through the rhythms of the seasons in Crete while
offering up delicious recipes to create your own meze table that
will delight everyone.
Vegetarian Cooking at HomeBy Katherine
Polenz ’73 with
The Culinary
Institute
of America
You don’t
have to be
vegetarian to
love vegetarian food.
This beautifully photographed book
brings easy yet elegant lacto-ovo vegetarian recipes to
life. Techniques specific to creating delicious vegetarian fare are
included throughout. You’ll find ways to transform your favorite
dish into a vegetarian triumph. And “How to Make It Your Own”
sections show up in each chapter to help you “mix up” a recipe
and think outside the box.
Vegan Cooking for CarnivoresBy Roberto Martin ’00
In this book you will find
vegan recipes so tasty even
a carnivore won’t miss
the meat. As personal
chef to stars Ellen
DeGeneres and Portia
De Rossi, Roberto
Martin set out to meet
their request to eat
only a vegan diet. Throughout
this book he provides recipes that rely less on
specific ingredients and more on technique and the translation
of familiar, beloved flavors. The more than 125 delicious vegan
recipes will delight carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans alike.
mise en place no.61, September 2012 25
If it’s James Beard Award season, you can be sure that a number of CIA alumni are on the list
to be recognized for their achievements. Below you’ll find the names of fellow grads who were
finalists this year. In red are our two big winners, Grant Achatz and Linton Hopkins. Linton has
been nominated every year since 2008 for Best Chef: Southeast. Guess the fifth time was the charm!
Grant was inducted into the Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America and his restaurant Next won
as Best New Restaurant. Congratulations to all the finalists and our winners.
Sara Moulton ’77, Media Personality: Sara’s Weeknight Meals
Gary Danko ’77, Outstanding Chef
Michael Chiarello ’82, Best Chef: Pacific (Bottega)
Gerard Hayden ’86, Best Chef: Northeast (The North Fork)
Jennifer Jasinski ’89, Best Chef: Southwest (Rioja)
Andrew Carmellini ’91, Book Award: American Flavor
John Besh ’92, Book Award: My Family Table: A Passionate Plea
for Home Cooking
Grant Achatz ’94, Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America
and Best New Restaurant: Next
Linton Hopkins ’95, Best Chef: Southeast (Restaurant Eugene)
Alon Shaya ’99, Best Chef: South (Domenica)
Susan Zemanick ’01, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Gautreau’s)
Thomas McNaughton ’04, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Flour
& Water)
KUDOS
of “communication”
guiding him, Chef Durfee
prepared a chocolate
entremet, a restaurant-
style dessert, and a
sculpture in chocolate—
all with Batman’s Bat
Signal as an element.
The judges were so
impressed they chose him
to be the member of the
American team to create
the chocolate sculpture
at the competition in
France. Chef Durfee will
be joined there by Andy
Chlebana of Joliet Junior
College in Joliet, IL and
Christophe Feyt of the
Paris Las Vegas hotel in Las Vegas, NV.
Chef Durfee has received many accolades during his career. He was
part of the opening team for The French Laundry in 1994, won the
James Beard Award for Pastry Chef of the Year in 1998, and was
named one of the 10 Best Pastry Chefs in America in 1999 by Pastry Art
& Design and Chocolatier magazines.
30 Under 30Every year, the famed Zagat Guide puts together a listing of New
York City’s hottest up-and-coming chefs—its 30 Under 30. These
young chefs have earned some notice and Zagat believes they are
worth watching as their careers unfold. A number of those named
are CIA alumni. Recognize anyone from your class?
Joseph Michael Ogrodnek ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby
Walker Lewis Stern ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby
Matthew Joseph Tilden ’02, owner/baker, Scratchbread
Erik Jason Battes ’04, chef de cuisine, Jean Georges
Leah Kaithern ’05, manager, Caffe Storico
Gilley Tang ’06, personal chef/co-founder, Shorty Tang & Sons
Corey Arthur Cova ’07, chef, Earl’s Beer & Cheese, and ABV
CIA Instructor Going to Coupe du MondeThe Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie competition, to be held in
Lyon, France in January 2013, is the baking and pastry equivalent
of the prestigious Bocuse d’Or for culinary chefs. The CIA at
Greystone’s own Chef-Instructor in Baking and Pastry Arts Stephen
Durfee has been selected to be part of the team representing the
U.S. at the competition. He spent countless hours preparing for the
event that would select the U.S. team. With the prescribed theme
James Beard Foundation Awards 2012
www.ciaalumninetwork.com26
Bridging the Gap by Giving Back CIA Grads in the ClassroomCIA alumni are the college’s legacy, and what a legacy they are! But
young alumni starting out, who may find it difficult to give back to
the college monetarily, often ask, “How can I give back to the CIA in
another way?” Well, graduates who took the Foodservice Management
in Health Care (FSMHC) course, begun in December 2010, are
finding a way. These young culinarians are returning to the CIA to
share their successes and experiences with second-semester seniors
who are currently taking the unique course.
Since this elective was created and developed by Assistant Professor in
Business Management Lynne Eddy, five classes, totaling 64 students,
have taken the course. And because of it, students are opting for
jobs in health care. Companies in this booming industry are seeking
classically trained culinarians to work in luxury retirement centers,
assisted care facilities, independent care properties, and other
continuing care retirement centers (CCRC).
How do we know this course is helping CIA graduates enter the field
of health care? More than 20 of our CIA graduates of the Foodservice
Management in Health Care course have accepted employment with
one company alone, Unidine. Based out of Boston, MA, Unidine
specializes in food and dining management services across three
business segments: senior dining, hospital dining, and business dining.
Coming Back to Give BackTwo CIA graduates have recently returned to share their experiences
as guest speakers in the FSMHC class. Kara Andretta ’10 is dining
services director for Unidine at United Hospice of Rockland. Kara
shared her enthusiasm for her position with the students in the class,
explaining how she is cooking personalized meals for terminally ill
patients. On her very first day, she was able to impress the company’s
compliance officer because she was the only one who understood the
language being used during orientation. Kara says, “I knew what CQI
and TQM meant (Continuous Quality Improvement and Total Quality
Management).
Aya Kuroda ’10 is working in the U.S. for New York Mutual Trading,
specializing in kitchen supplies and tableware from Japan. “Basically
my role is to find new markets, other than Japanese restaurants, on
the East Coast.” Aya came to class to share her passion for unique
types of thickening agents not currently found in the U.S., which can
be used to modify the texture of food for patients who have difficulty
swallowing.
Other CIA alumni who have presented in class and/or hosted students
at their sites include:
Craig Merrill ’73, associate director—dining services, Glen Arden
Elant CCRC, Goshen, NY
Anthony Fischetti ’78, executive chef, Vassar Brothers Medical
Center, Poughkeepsie, NY
Tim Celuck ’85, executive chef, Kingston Hospital, Kingston, NY
Jim McGrody ’90, author and director culinary services, Rex
Healthcare, Raleigh, NC
Gower Lane ’92, director of operations, Kendal on Hudson, Sleepy
Hollow, NY
Tim Strasser ’84, executive chef, Vi, Yonkers, NY
Matt Camp ’02, dining services director, Unidine, Boston, MA
Chris Garrand ’02, district manager, Unidine, Boston, MA
Marc Uhrik ’97, executive chef, St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital,
Newburgh, NY
A new alumnus, Paul Goskowski ’10, expressed the sentiments of
many who have taken the FSMHC course when he said, “I’ve recently
developed and implemented a new purée initiative in my facility in
Maryland! I feel Professor Eddy’s class lays the foundation for anyone
entering this side of the industry. I’m sure that one day I’ll be the one
standing in front of her class recruiting great culinary talent.”
No doubt many of the young alumni who took this class will also find
their way back to share their experiences with “new recruits” for the
health care industry.
CIA graduates who are working in the health care industry and
are interested in being a guest speaker in the classroom can contact
Assistant Professor Lynne Eddy at [email protected] or
845-905-4660.
vassar hospital’s exeCutive CheF anthony FisChetti ‘78 taKes students throuGh the prep area at the hospital
mise en place no.61, September 2012 27
Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine
At The Culinary Institute of America, we’ve always known that to
get exceptional results, you must start with good, wholesome, quality
ingredients and products. The folks at Bunge (pronounced bun-ghee)
North America know this too. According to Bill McCullough, director
of marketing for Bunge Oils, “We want to arm students with products
that provide the best taste, value, and health benefits for their future
culinary endeavors.”
Founded in Amsterdam in 1818, Bunge, a leading agribusiness food
company with worldwide operations, prides itself on delivering
products that take the shortest distance from harvest to market. Bunge
is a leader in the areas of:
• Providing soybeans, corn, wheat, sorghum, canola, and rice both
domestically and world-wide
• Oilseed processing
• Oils
• Milling
For more than a decade, Bunge North America has been involved
with the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind program, providing baking shortenings,
canola and soybean salad oils, and high oleic canola oil for deep-
frying. Today, you can find Bunge products in the kitchens at all three
of our U.S. campuses. “At Bunge we know that it’s in the teaching
kitchens that CIA students are first exposed to foodservice brands
and where they start to develop brand loyalty,” explains McCullough.
“Shortenings, specialty fats, and premium frying oils may not be center
of the plate but they can represent a significant food cost on a menu.”
Jim DeJoy, advancement officer in charge of the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind
program, reiterates McCullough’s sentiment. “Gifting products to
the CIA is a win-win for all involved,” he says. “Corporations have
a priceless opportunity to get their products into the hands of future
culinary leaders who develop loyalty to those products and use them
when they go out into the field. Additionally, our students have the
opportunity to work with top-quality ingredients that ultimately
enhance their recipes for a greater end product.”
Over the years, Bunge’s relationship with the CIA has grown from
gifting product to sponsoring several of the CIA’s leadership and
industry conferences and retreats—events that provide sponsors
and attendees the chance to reach top operators and corporate
chefs in volume foodservice. “Partnering with the CIA on these
programs has given Bunge the opportunity to showcase our products
and educate our customers about the positive role that beneficial
fats and oils can and should play in foodservice. In fact, our food
truck, nicknamed M.O.E. (Mobile Oil Experts), made its first trip
to the CIA’s California campus in 2009 for the Worlds of Flavor
International Conference and Festival that focused on street food.”
The CIA is thrilled to have Bunge in its network of industry
partners. McCullough agrees, “We look forward to working with the
CIA as they expand into Asia and hope we can offer more support
in educating students on the value of selecting the appropriate fats
and oils for their next culinary adventure.”
Felicia Zammit is a CIA advancement officer.
By Felicia Zammit
www.ciaalumninetwork.com28
Why Give?Allison Siegel ’80
What makes giving meaningful?We’re three CIA generations strong—my dad, Alfred Rosenthal;
my son, Corey Siegel ’10; and me, Allison Siegel ’80. Our
connection to the college goes back to its earliest days in New
Haven, CT. My dad, always a food and wine lover, was a student
of James Beard and Julia Child. He was also a member of the
James Beard Foundation, the American Institute of Wine & Food,
the Confrérie du Chevaliers du Tastevin, Confrérie de la Chaîne
des Rôtisseurs and, eventually, a CIA Member of the Corporation
and Life Fellow. After retiring as president of a multinational
corporation, he started By Invitation Only LTD, an event-planning
firm. Food and great restaurants were a huge part of my life
growing up. Knowing my passion for all things food-related, my
dad suggested the CIA when I was looking for a college. It was
easy to fall in love with the school. After graduation, I worked at
the Helmsley Palace Hotel in New York City. Then, while I was
working for Aramark at New York University, I earned a bachelor’s
degree in foodservice management from the school. I’ve been
with Aramark for 29 years, in positions ranging from executive
chef to resident district manager. My CIA training also prepared
me to participate in Aramark’s Guest Chef exchange program in
Barcelona and Pamplona, Spain.
My son Corey shared the family love of food. His high school
BOCES chef-instructor saw Corey’s potential and got him involved
with the American Culinary Federation competition. Together,
they were fierce competitors. As an alumna, I brought Corey to
the CIA for visits every year. By 10th grade, he decided he wanted
to attend. After graduation, he began a three-year apprenticeship
program at The Greenbrier in West Virginia. Executive Chef
Richard Rosendale took Corey under his wing and pushed him
to constantly strive for perfection. Richard asked Corey to be his
commis for the Bocuse d’Or USA competition held at the CIA
last January, and with my dad and me cheering them on, Richard
and he won! They are now training to represent the USA in Lyon,
France in 2013.
What Motivates You to Give?We give because of our love, respect, and deep admiration for
the school. It will always be a huge part of our lives. When Corey
decided he wanted to attend the CIA, it was one of my proudest
moments. I was able to relive my experience and see how things
have changed. There are advances in technology, specializations,
and the curriculum, as well as things like the library, the lodges, and
the restaurants. All of these things really have an impact on student
learning.
How Do You Give?Supporting the college helps to enhance the student experience,
provides scholarship opportunities, improves library and technology
resources, and recruits and retains a world-class faculty and staff.
Making a donation after talking with a student during the annual
phonathon, giving online to the “making some noise” e-mail campaign,
or sending back the mise en place insert with a check, are some of the
many ways we give. Keeping the dream of the CIA alive is how and
why we give. And we give every chance we get. As a family, we take
pride in the CIA degree, the school, and its graduates. Without it, the
picture (above) of the three of us would not have been possible.
allison sieGel, Corey sieGel, and alFred rosenthal
mise en place no.61, September 2012 29
Jacob Churchman ’11AOS in Baking and Pastry Arts ’11BPS in Baking and Pastry Arts Management ’12Recipient: Michael Cech Endowed Scholarship, Ronald and Elizabeth Magruder Endowed Scholarship, Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs—Hal J. Rosoff Memorial Scholarship, Augie™ Awards Dinner Endowed Scholarship
What motivated you to attend the CIA?I believe my mother was the single greatest influence in my decision
to pursue a career in the foodservice industry. When I was six, she
earned her culinary certificate at the New Orleans Culinary Institute.
Shortly thereafter, she started Churchman’s Catering. By the time I
was seven years old, I was involved in a catering function of some type
every weekend. My mother would dress me up in my finest clothes
and have me working alongside her, walking around and serving
appetizers. You can only imagine the tips a seven-year-old boy made
just by wearing a tuxedo! During high school, when I went searching
for a job in the foodservice industry, I got the chance to apprentice
under two certified master bakers. When they learned of my desire
to attend culinary school, they told me that The Culinary Institute of
America was simply the finest school a chef could attend.
What has been the best part of being at the CIA?In addition to my course work here at the CIA, the opportunities
outside of class have meant a lot to me. I’ve been part of S.P.I.C.E.
(Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment). After serving
as the group’s president for two years, I realized I have a passion
for programming. To that end, I’ve been hired as the CIA activities
intern. I’ve been very lucky to go to a culinary school and graduate
with not only a bachelor’s degree, but with an equal amount of event
management and planning knowledge. The CIA has led me into a
career that will fully showcase my personal talents.
What are your plans for the future?I know that in the next five to ten years I want a job that allows me to
Giving’s Impact
travel and learn about cultures around the world—one that helps me to
further my education. I see myself working in the luxury cruise line
industry, where I hope to work my way up to the job of cruise director
or activities director. After that, and for the rest of my life, I will be a
student taking one step at a time; learning new things every day, and,
with luck, climbing the corporate ladder to success.
How has the CIA’s scholarship program helped you?It has given me the opportunity of a lifetime. Without the assistance
I’ve received, I would not have been able to fulfill my dreams. I am
truly excited about beginning my career in the cruise line industry;
it’s a dream come true. I can’t thank those who had a hand in the
scholarship program enough for giving me the opportunity to succeed
and find my true calling.
We thought it would be fun to take you on a trip down memory lane to see just how much the CIA’s main campus has changed since it opened its doors back in 1946. From a New Haven, CT street corner to a Jesuit novitiate in Hyde Park, NY, the CIA has grown almost unimaginably. These pictures are reminders of just how far we have come and that the sky is the limit when we think about where we are going!
19462012
THEN&NOW New Haven Restaurant Institute in a single building on a street corner in New Haven, CT
The CIA moved to a Jesuit novitiate overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park, NY
Outside the mansion in New Haven
Enjoying a moment overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park
A two-layer buttercream cake gets special attention in New Haven
This CIA student’s cake won Best in Show at the 144th Salon of Culinary Art
A pick-up game of softball in New Haven
Established fields and teams are part of the sporting life in Hyde Park
30
Dining in a stark hall, New Haven
Dining in the glorious Farquharson Hall in Hyde Park
A mirror hung precariously over the instructor’s head in the New Haven demo kitchen
Digital screens make demos in the commodious Danny Kaye Theatre easy and safe
New Haven students learn the art of braiding bread
Student displays perfect challah bread fresh from the ovens of the Apple Pie Bakery Café kitchen
Small and modest would best describe the college’s first library in New Haven
The Conrad N. Hilton Library in Hyde Park is home to more than 86,000 books, 4,500 DVDs and videos, and 280 periodicals
Paper cook’s hats were the style of the day in New Haven
Toques are the headgear of choice in Hyde Park
Academic classes were held on the basement level in New Haven
Students take liberal arts classes in light and airy modern classrooms in Hyde Park
31
www.ciaalumninetwork.com32
’56 Richard Dearden is retired
and loves it. He still does a bit
of consulting and some catering work. He
reports that his daughter, Ellen Dearden
’84, is enjoying a successful career. Rich-
ard had the chance to spend a day with
Joe Amendola just before he passed away
and says, “He was the nicest man you
could ever know.”
’61 James Billings is retired
from the Greenville County
School in Burlington, VT. He has three
daughters, three stepdaughters, and 13
grandchildren. He also kept busy coach-
ing baseball and football for 24 and five
years, respectively.
’66 Paul H. Schmidt is retired
after a long career that
included 26 years at Russell Sage College,
two years at Price Chopper Food Market,
10 years at Amtrak, and five years with
Compass Group.
’67 Donald (Smokey) Adams
is the owner and blacksmith
at Second Circle Forge in Ignacio, CO.
He is preparing to retire after 36 years
of building fancy ironwork for Highland
Homes. He’s ready to put some miles on
his new Harley-Davidson!
’68 Leonard Gentieu is chef/
owner of Papagallo Yacht
Charters, a floating event center in Morro
Bay, CA. Peter Harrison is owner/
president of A&P Turbo Clean in
Bentonville, AR.
’70 Loring W. Bush is spend-
ing his free time writing a
cookbook. Martin Johner has married
Professor Gary A. Goldberg, his partner
of 40 years. Together they founded Cu-
linary Center of New York in New York
City, which provides classes, catering,
and consulting. Martin has co-authored
two cookbooks and has been featured
on television, radio, and in print as “The
Chocolate Chef.”
’72 Sheryl Ann Hein is lead
cook for residential dining at
Western Oregon University in Mon-
mouth, OR. She has a new grandson and
granddaughter.
’73 Edward Fisher is quality
assurance director for Omar
Coffee Company in Newington, CT.
Richard L. Szydlyk has retired from
the business he owned providing meal
packs for K-12 schools.
’74 Daniel Kotowski has
reached some important
milestones. He retired in 2010 after 34
years with Compass Group, and he and
his wife just celebrated their 40th anniver-
sary. He recently completed his log home
in Vermont and enjoys snowboarding,
snowmobiling, sailing, and clamming. He
is living life and loving it.
’75 James Sands is chef/owner of
Zoe’s Fish House in Hadley,
MA. The Western Massachusetts Valley Ad-
vocate has named Zoe’s Best of the Valley
Seafood Restaurant for 15 straight years.
’76 Robert J. Hanné is a
culinary arts instructor for
Virginia College in Savannah, GA. He is
proud to announce the birth of his first
grandson, Wyatt Christopher Hanné, in
July 2011. Timothy Martin is vice presi-
dent, contracting & procurement
for Duke Corporate Education in
Durham, NC.
’77 Daniel Brule is culinary
instructor at The Bradenton
Bridge, in Bradenton, FL, which provides
transition and work release opportuni-
ties for nonviolent inmates at Florida
facilities. Daniel teaches a 28-week ACF-
sponsored culinary fundamentals course
that prepares inmates for job placement.
Randy Fournier is manager of global
dining & food safety for Hess Corpora-
tion in Houston, TX.
’78 Marc Schlenz is director
of club operations for the St.
Andrews Country Club in Boca Raton,
FL. Brian Scully is manager of the
Royal Kona Resort Romance Center in
Kailua Bay, HI. From 1984–2008, he had
a successful catering and event company
in Denver, CO, which he sold when he
moved to Hawaii to retire. Though his
“retirement” consists of working 45 hours
a week for the resort, he truly loves life in
paradise.
’79 Jeff A. Miller is in his third
term as commissioner of the
town of Matthews, NC. He is also the
inventory control area manager for Fam-
ily Dollar’s corporate headquarters, also
in Matthews. Michael O’Donnell is
national account manager and corporate
chef for TW Garner Food Company in
Shoreview, MN. Paula Waxman is a 30-
year veteran of the foodservice industry
and is now owner of ’Wiches of Boston,
LLC. The company uses liquid nitrogen
to make intensely flavored ice cream cre-
ations during private events in the New
England region. Take a look at what she’s
doing at www.wichesofboston.com.
’80 Jeff Azer is in sales and
design for Cornerstone
Restaurant Supply and Design in Palm
Desert, CA. Peter Coldren is chef/own-
er of Quality & Elegance by Coldren’s
Catering and Peterallynn’s and Company,
both in Reading, PA. He is the proud
father of seven children and, as a hobby,
enjoys creating customized festival con-
cessions. Martin E. Grossel is a partner
in Pride Caterers, which is an off-premise
caterer in the New York Metropolitan
area. James Lenhardt is food produc-
tion manager for Aramark at Children’s
Hospital of Philadelphia in Philadelphia,
PA. Stephen Worsley is currently in
Buenos Aires, Argentina, which is just one
stop on his trip around the world to study
food and culture.
’81 Lisa Callison is chef at The
Country Club at Castle Pines
in Castle Pines, CO as well as special
event and demo chef for Whole Foods,
also in Colorado. Donna Ewanciw is
chef/owner of Radice Restaurant in Blue
Bell, PA. Carol Newhouse is a workers’
compensation law judge for New York
State Workers’ Compensation Board in
Albany, NY. Michael Posid is executive
chef at Christian Health Care Center
in Wyckoff, NJ. He would love to get
in contact with his classmates Carlos,
Danny, Be, Hoe, “The Fubbos,” and the
1979 softball champs. He says, “You know
who you are!”
’82 Henry Meer is chef/owner
of City Hall Restaurant in
New York City. Daniel Streett just
celebrated his 20-year anniversary as
executive chef at the Country Club of
Maryland in Towson, MD.
’83 Donald Muszalski is gener-
al manager for Legends Hos-
pitality at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx,
NY. Ira Siegel is executive chef at Just
Restaurant & Lounge in Old Bridge, NJ.
Ellen Zarcone is executive sous chef
at the Hilton Pearl River in Pearl River,
NY. She is also senior experience mentor
in the Bergen County Academies senior
experience program.
’84 Joseph Donnelly is general
manager/COO of the Alpine
Country Club in Demarest, NJ. Sharon
Hage is owner/chef/consultant for S.
Hage Consulting in Dallas, TX. Alan
Romano is chef-instructor at Guilford
Technical Community College in James-
town, NC. He recently received The
Cutting Edge Award from the American
Culinary Federation at its Southeast
Regional Conference.
’85 Joseph Archazki is general
manager at The Commons
Club at the Brooks in Bonita Springs,
FL. T. Scott Clayton is owner/general
mise en place no.61, September 2012 33
contractor of Top Notch Preservation in
Dahlonega, GA. He also works part-time
in patient foods at the Northside Forsyth
Hospital in Cumming, GA. Joseph
O’Connor is executive chef—meal
solutions for Mariano’s Fresh Market in
Naperville, IL. Greg Paulson is program
director and instructor—culinary arts at
Georgia Northwestern Technical College
in Rome, GA. David J. Reid is corporate
chef/owner of Bluefrog Foods LLC in
Austell, GA. Ronald A. Welch is train-
ing store manager for Harry & David in
St. Augustine, FL. He has three children
and two grandchildren. Ron’s hobbies are
cooking (of course!), working in his yard,
and fishing.
’86 Robert A. Bruce is area
general manager for Sodexo
in Albany, NY. Stephen Higgs has been
a courier at Federal Express for the past
13 years. He also owns Cooters Country
Catering—a mobile catering company
that specializes in BBQ—and regularly
competes on the Kansas City BBQ
Society competition circuit. Stephen
M. Maronian was admitted into the
Académie Culinaire de France at a June
ceremony in Chicago. He teaches classes
at Norwalk Community College in Nor-
walk, CT. Derin Moore is executive chef
for The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs,
CO. John Petronella is owner/principal
of ManhattanJack specializing in hand-
crafted artisan chocolates and confections
in Norco, LA. Michael Stoddart is
chef/owner of Seasons Caterer Special
Occasion in Lexington, KY.
’87 Anthony Dilucia is general
manager at Hotel Jerome in
Aspen, CO.
’88 Michael T. Bull is restaurant
service instructor at Gross-
mont Union High School in El Cajon,
CA. He earned the 2012 Cutting Edge
Award at the ACF’s Western Regional
Conference and was named 2012 Chef
of the Year by the San Diego Chapter
of the ACF. Linda Hall is culinary
strategy consultant for Sam’s Club and
Cookwork.com. Her work includes trend
tracking, recipe and menu development,
food photography supervision, and food
marketing.
’89 Jason Bobson is chef/owner
of Pici Enoteca in Beverly
Hills, CA. Michael and Wendy Jordan
are both culinary instructors at the Seattle
Culinary Academy in Seattle, WA. Marc
Lubetkin is director of communications
for Sodexo in Weatogue, CT. He is also
owner of the Red Stone Pub in Simsbury,
CT. Williams N. Mooney is chef/
owner of The Brothers Moon Restaurant
in Hopewell, NJ, which is celebrating its
11th year in operation.
’90 John E. Calderon is direc-
tor of food and beverage at
the Pronghorn Golf Club in Bend, OR.
Raymond Camillo is owner/president
of Blue Orbit Restaurant Advisors in Ro-
swell, GA. Lee Cohen is wine director/
manager for Darden at The Capital Grille
in Washington, DC. Kevin W. Early is
director of dining and catering at Windsor
Meade of Williamsburg, a continuing care
retirement community in Williamsburg,
VA. Julienne Guyette is chef-instructor
in the culinary arts and nutrition program
at the University of New Hampshire’s
Thompson School of Applied Sciences
in Durham, NH. Paul Paetow is general
manager for Aramark in Philadelphia, PA.
Scott Terle is consultant/owner of La
Bonn Cuisine in Gainesville, FL.
’91 Charles Bishop is chef/owner
of Squiretown Restaurant
& Bar in Hampton Bays, NY. He was
married in 2010 and welcomed his baby
daughter Riley in August 2011. Peter
Kim is owner of Blue Finn in Middle-
town, NY.
’92 Gretchen (Mayer) Lohnes
is executive chef for AVI
Food Systems, Inc. at Alfred University
in Alfred, NY. Gretchen is working on an
ongoing project for state schools regard-
ing farm-to-table sustainability with local
business farmers. She is proud to say that
Alfred is one of the very first schools to
have gone trayless.
’93 Gerard Conway is general
manager at the North Hemp-
stead Country Club in Port Washington,
NY. Bryan Dooley is chef/owner of
Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue in
Cave Creek, AZ.
’94 Cornelius Gallagher is
chef/owner of the Dragon-
fly Restaurant in New York City. Eric
Meisel is a broker/sales representative
and chef for Michaels & Associates, con-
sultants in foodservice, in Grand Rapids,
MI. Melissa A. Schell-Adkins is head
pastry chef at Bellefonte Country Club in
Ashland, KY. She was married in 2011 in
her hometown of Rochester, NY.
’95 Keoni Chang is corporate
executive chef for the Sullivan
Family of Companies in Honolulu, HI. In
May, he won the 2012 Supermarket Chef
Showdown held in Dallas, TX and spon-
sored by McCormick. Robert Giesman
is the executive chef for The Kenwood by
Senior Star in Cincinnati, OH.
’96 Joshua Baur is a private chef
in New Paltz, NY. He was one
of the chefs who cooked for Chelsea Clin-
ton’s wedding reception, and specializes
in dinner parties. Karen Berner is food
editor at Reader’s Digest Association’s
Taste of Home magazine. Peter Stone is
owner/wine consultant/chef of Toxaway
Wine and Cheese in Lake Toxaway, NC.
’97 Mehta Gordon is chef/
owner of Sweet Life Cakery in
Kingston, WA. Kristin (Miley) Hollo-
way is chef at Willow Valley Retirement
Communities in Willow Street, PA. Mark
Krystopa is director of culinary opera-
tions at Hyatt Hotels Corporation, Select
Hotel Group in Chicago, IL. David Wie-
derholt is executive chef/partner at The
Capitol Grille in New Jersey.
’98 Sarah “Sadie” Higgins
is pastry cook II at the Four
Seasons Resort in Hualalai in Kailua-
Kona, HI. She is engaged to be married.
Tia McDonald is director of culinary
operations at the Vetri Foundation in
Philadelphia, PA, established to help
kids experience the connection between
healthy eating and healthy living through
food, education, and social interaction.
Dewayne Vandevander is executive
sous chef at Richmond Country Club in
Richmond, VA.
’99 Daniel Decesare is chef/
owner of Sammy D’s Cafe in
Lake George, NY. Susan Woytowich
Ferry is manager at Larry’s Outboard
Service in Tiberton, RI. In May 2011,
she received her bachelor’s in business
management from Johnson & Wales
University. Luke LaBar is business
insights consultant for Symphony IRI
Group in Chicago, IL. Patrick M. Stark
is executive chef at Sundown at Granada
in Dallas, TX.
’00 Michael Henville is execu-
tive chef at Oualie Beach Re-
sort in Charlestown, Nevis, West Indies.
Carolyn Bond Kern is chef-instructor
for Sur La Table in Boulder, CO. She
welcomed daughter Lola in 2011. Chris-
topher Macchia is executive chef at
Florentine in Chicago, IL.
’01 Nicholas DiGiovine is a
marketing associate for Sysco
Corporation in Philadelphia, PA. Sean
Eslinger is executive chef at 900 Wall
Restaurant in Bend, OR. Timothy Fet-
ter is executive chef for Parkhurst Dining
Services in Pittsburgh, PA. He received
the 2012 Chef of the Year award from the
Laurel Highlands Chapter of the ACF.
This honor came on the heels of the birth
of his second child, Evan, in August 2011.
Kathleen (Esposito) Long is content
manager at Bounty Hunter Rare Wine
and Provisions in Napa, CA. Nicholas
Ritchie is executive chef for Alex Ital-
Almost 40% of CIA students
are referred by our alumni!
Any prospective student you
refer is eligible to receive an
Alumni Referral Scholarship
as well as other scholarship
opportunities. You can
change a life. It’s easy!
Just visit www.
ciaalumninetwork.com/refer
You Make A
Difference!
Eugene Benjamin ’52
H. Thomas Emery ’55
Edward Griffin ’56
Robert E. Kenerson ’57
Raymond T. Robb ’57
Ralph A. Gardner ’64
George Edward Clark ’66
Jim Heywood ’67
Edward A. Kerr ’68
David Paul Bargmann ’69
Frank Anthony Chianese ’70
Thomas M. Hyll ’70
William S. Mank ’70
Robert M. Potanovich ’71
Ralph H. Pettifer ’72
Donald H. Tietjen ’75
Thomas L. Armstrong, Jr. ’78
Mark Ignatious Frizell ’79
Joseph P. Hardwick ’79
Charles P. Garvey ’80
Madelyn Cutler ’81
Romano Filippi ’81
Albert W. Runser II ’83
Jeffrey Scott Ritchey ’84
Gregory R. Gevurtz ’87
Armand John Ferraro ’88
Paula (Seplavy) Ledney ’97
Clarence Willmore Cruse ’10
Victor Garcia ’12
In Memoriamian Restaurant in Rutherford, CA. The
location was recently approved as a CIA
externship site. Laura Simpson is sous
chef 1 at the Ritz-Carlton in Philadelphia,
PA.
’02 Alexander Chase is execu-
tive chef at Masu Sushi & Ro-
bata in Minneapolis, MN. He spent the
summer of 2009 commercial salmon fish-
ing in Kodiak, AK. He is also a certified
yoga teacher who enjoys rock climbing,
bicycle tours, and travel. Matthew Ifko-
vitz is sous chef at Flatiron in Red Hook,
NY. Bradford Lewis is sous chef/ban-
quet chef at the Bay Harbor Yacht Club
in Bay Harbor, MI. Don McClellan,
Jr. is executive chef at Cherokee Nation
Entertainment in Catoosa, OK. Amar
Santana is chef/partner of Broadway by
Amar Santana in Laguna Beach, CA.
’03 Ore Dagan is sales manager
for the New Zealand King
Salmon Company—Western Region of
North America. The company raises
King Salmon in the pristine waters of the
Marlborough Sounds in New Zealand.
William Dissen is chef/owner of The
Market Place in Asheville, NC. In 2012,
Monterey Bay Aquarium chose him as
Seafood Watch Ambassador and Fortune
magazine named him Green Chef of the
Year. In addition, William was selected
to host the annual Fortune Brainstorm
GREEN Conference. In 2010, Mother
Nature Network selected him as one of 40
Chefs Under 40, in recognition of his in-
novative approach to sustainable cuisine.
John Eisensmith is executive chef at
Six Plates Winebar in Durham, NC. Paul
Fucello is sous chef at The Seawane
Country Club in Hewlett Harbor, NY. He
welcomed son Samson in April 2012. You
might remember his older sister Caroline
Jean (our “B-Block Baby” from mise en
place #53). Seems Paul is prepping his
kids for culinary careers. (see above)
’04 Amy Agin is a dietitian
working for the City of
Cincinnati in Cincinnati, OH. Patrick
Decker is a self-employed food stylist,
writer, recipe developer, and video pro-
ducer. Brian Flach is chef de cuisine at
Swoon Kitchen Bar in Hudson, NY. Lisa
Hanson is chef/owner of Mona Restau-
rant & Bar in Minneapolis, MN. Michael
Nestrud is director, client insights &
sensory science for In4mation Insights in
Needham Heights, MA.
’05 Michael Israel is owner
of food truck M.O.Eggrolls.
He creates Montreal-style, open-ended
eggrolls that are kosher-certified and deli-
cious. Karina (Gordon) Massaro and
her husband welcomed their first child,
Dominic James, in December 2011. Todd
Patterson is executive chef for The Surf
City Hotel in Surf City, NJ. He recently
got engaged. Laura Sawicki is executive
pastry chef at La Condes Austin and La
Condes Napa Valley. Rick Tran is sous
chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in New
York City. Previously, he spent five years
working at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon,
also in New York City. Laura M. Wilson
is assistant sommelier at Per Se in New
York City.
’06 Steven Philipps is pastry
chef and kitchen manager at
Dolci Café & Bakery in Buffalo, NY. He
is also chef/owner of Mercenary Chef
Catering. Prior to that, he served in the
military and had deployments in Iraq and
Afghanistan between 2008 and 2011. He
also served on the Fort Drum Culinary
Team and took gold, silver, and three
bronze medals at ACF events.
’07 Daria Marie Astorino is
pastry chef/owner of But-
terfly Orchid Cakes. David E. Bacot is
sous chef for Mon Ami Gabi, a Lettuce
Entertain You property in Bethesda, MD.
Keri Levens is wine director for Aquavit
in New York City. David and Denien
Sramek are co-owners of Heritage
Bakery Café in Madison, WI. They
just celebrated their first anniversary.
Soohyun You is section chef at SPC’s
Paris-Croissant in Seoul, South Korea.
After graduating, she worked at Pierre
Gagnaire’s restaurant in Seoul. She is
currently continuing her education at the
Graduate School of Tourism at Kyung-
Hee University also in Seoul.
’08 Paul J. Kearns is campus
lead executive chef for
Sodexo in Trumbull, CT.
’09 Garret Fleming is executive
chef of The Pig restaurant in
Washington, DC. Roger Mason is chef/
owner of Basta Restaurant in Ossining,
NY. Austin Barry Siegel is food service
director for SAGE Dining Services in
Hartsdale, NY.
’10 Emery Long is sustainable
chef at The Island School
in Cape Eleuthera, Bahamas. Marnely
Rodriguez-Murray is pastry cook at
Vineyard Gold Club in Edgartown, MA.
Check out her food blog at www.cooking-
withbooks.blogspot.com.samson and sister Caroline Jean (our b-bloCK baby)
miChael israel ‘05 and his WiFe, oWners oF m.o.eGGrolls
35
1 New Visitor’s Center (or) 2 Technology or Research Labs (or) 2 New Production Kitchens (or) 4 New Classrooms (or) 733 New Scholarships
If 44,000 AlumniGive $25
We Raise $1,100,000That’s...
Are you a SILENT FAN of the CIA? Well, we need you to
MAKE SOME NOISEwww.ciagiving.org | 845-451-1602
*Did you know foundations and lenders pay close attention to the number of alumni who give back to the college? They use alumni participation as one of their criteria when they consider investing in
the CIA. So, as you can imagine, every bit of noise helps!
Remember, the CIA is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit institution, so your donation is fully tax-deductible.
The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499
to Register for Alumni Homecoming 2012 Join us for two days of food, fun, and friends on
Friday and Saturday, Sept. 21–22
Wonderful events are scheduled including:
Call the Alumni Relations Office today at 845-451-1401 or register online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com.
•“thyme to mingle” reception
•an elegant dinner to remember
•dancing and karaoke (back by popular demand!)
•2nd annual 5K “run for your Knives”
LAST CHANCE
Homecoming2012
•Campus update
•Culinary science demonstration
•“down home-coming” bbq lunch
•Campus tours
•special reception for all new haven alumni
Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Websites Career Services Registrar Professional Development General Information 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1688 1-800-888-7850 845-452-9600 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com ciarestaurants.com