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Page 1: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

with the sponsorship of

The magazine for those who live in Tuscany– or wish they did

TUSCANY’S

MAGAZINE

May 2020 € 2.90

GRAPEVINE

Page 2: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

Contents

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseClaudia CasoliAlexandra Cipriani PettittLucia CostaFlavio Di GiacomoJudith EdwardsThomas S. EnglandScott FabbriEleni GkovedarouDon GriffinSimone LippiSue PerryFrancis PettittDavid PlanteLesley RobertsFarah ShawSydney SmithMaria Tsaousidou

Marketing & DistributionAlex GalliDiana GattiNicola GirolamiSilvano Simi

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine Editions

Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A, Lucca Centro Storico, 55100 Italy (closed for now).Mailing address: Via Roma 19, Pescaglia LU 55064 Italy. Mobile +39 333 8617962 [email protected] www.luccagrapevine.com Codice univoco M5UXCR1 P. IVA 02416230460 C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by SEC srl - Fornacette - Pisa (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed within a frame contain paid submissions. Unsigned articles are by the Editors.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine© What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

Cover:

Piazza Anfiteatro (Lucca)

by Sue Perry

Poetry, Art & Artists, Music

Traditions & History

Excursions

Reflections

Practical

Complimentary Business Cards

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals, Classifieds

Poem by David Plante 5

Lucca at Dawn (photograph) 5

Postponed: Lucca Classica Music Festival 8

Cultural Events in Coronavirus Time 9

The Bridge across the Serchio (painting, poem) 11

Girl with a Star at her Ear (graphic art) 17

An Endangered Generation’s Resilient Appeal 13

The Charterhouse of Calci 6

22

10,12

0

0

Light Within (poem and sketch) 22

Namaste 14

Interviews: Living with Covid 19 18

Looking Up from Lockdown 19

Safe at Home in Lucca 20

The Best Place to Be during a Pandemic? 21

Residency Issues for British Nationals 80

16

23

2020May

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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

[email protected] www.systems-pool.com

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 20202

National and International RemovalsFurniture Storage and Safekeeping - Free Estimates

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Page 3: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

5Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

Nino Rota

I can claim, if I can claim at all, a republicfounded by enlightened men in wigs

who discussed the possibilitythat the republic's language would be Greek;

and I hark back to when I, a boy, sworehand over heart, that I believed in liberty for all,

and thought that at some time, some timeas far in the future as far back when

Athena and her wise owl kept open eyes,there would be liberty for all.

– by David Plante

David Plante is Professor Emeritus (retired) of Columbia University.His book Becoming a Londoner was reviewed in Grapevine by Chiara Calabrese in September 2013.

POEM

LIBERTAS on Porta San Pietro, Lucca.

p. 73, The Walls of Lucca

by Roberta Martinelli & Giovanni Parmini

(Maria Pacini Fazzi Editore 1991).

Lucca was a republic from 1160 to 1805.

Dawn over Lucca, by Scott Fabbri

EditorialDear Friends and Readers,

from Norma and the Grapevine Team

As we come to the end of nearly two months in lockdown, I can't speak for you, but for myself, I

feel a loosening of connectedness and more difficulty in maintaining those interpersonal ties that

contribute to society. In other words, living in nature I find myself more drawn towards planting

food items such as tomatoes, lettuce, and herbs, and to respecting the natural cycles, the rhythms of sleep

and the necessities of daily life. Sometimes I dream of life as it was in the past, not always better, but rarely in

isolation.

We are part of a huge interpersonal, international event unknown in our existence – that of Covid 19, a contagious

pandemic disease with no known cure. As a result, culture as we know it has been put on hold and we are obliged to

reinvent it, maybe as online or virtual experiences, or individualistically, through artistic expression. Or we can

postpone it, hoping for a better future. If the contagion is contained or we discover a vaccine, we can perhaps return to

our previous existence. But should we?

For Grapevine this has meant, for a monthly publication, that we must look beyond day to day and week to week

circumstances, to consider the human condition from a longer perspective. We no longer can propose calendars of daily

events, although everyone wants to know what will happen this year, or next year. Instead we choose to offer art,

poetry, and reflections about the meaning of this historic event and its impact on our daily life. Our writers, living in

Italy or abroad, have an international perspective. No one is an island….

On a practical level, people want to know what the government intends for us, under the current regulations. The

situation is extremely volatile; for this reason Grapevine invites individuals to communicate with us individually, via

email or through Facebook.

I have conducted a small survey regarding feelings about the lockdown and the future (Interview: Living under

Lockdown), while the authors Judith, Francis, Sue, Lesley, and Chiara each talk about the current situation from their

own perspectives. Poets and artists – Farah, David, Lucia, Sandra, Francis, and Scott – also comment, in a less direct

yet more poignant way. We hope that readers will reflect and take from this what they need.

Remaining in print is a huge challenge. We invite readers to contribute in whatever way possible, for example by

purchasing an online gift subscription (€24 per year) for a friend or relative. Last month several of our subscribers

thanked us for what we do. In turn, we say, bless you! May you stay well, and return to Italy whenever possible, if you

aren't already here now.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 4

Quality TranslationsEditing & Book Preparation

Consulting

Tel. 333 8617962Fax 0583 164254

email: [email protected]

Editions

GRAPEVINEtrilingual (French, English, Italian), for

private & public engagements, lessons. [email protected]

Tel. 333 8617962

HARPIST

closed Sunday evening

and Monday

Via della Cervia - LUCCA

Tel. 0583 55881

Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it

[email protected]

Page 4: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

The Natural History Museum

includes items from the collection

of the Grand Duke of Tuscany

Ferdinando de' Medici, which he

started in 1591. The collection

includes minerals, animals,

skeletons, fossils, and dioramas of

human evolution. It tells the

history of the territory, including

what existed even before

dinosaurs walked the earth. One

could spend an entire day in the

minerals collection, which was

started in 1844. Each display

includes the story behind the

mineral, presented in both Italian

and English, covering everything

from the origin of the solar system

and historic meteorites, as well as

geocronite crystals, tourmaline

crystals, and Apuane marble, to

name just a few.

The same could be said for

the rest of the exhibits. My

favorite was the exhibit compar-

ing human and insect society,

both of which live in big, complex

societies. The exhibition noted

that the insects existed before us,

and if we continue to "self-

destroy" they will still continue without us. The other exhibits were also impres-

sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of

exhibits.

The only way to see the monastery is with a guide. Unfortunately, for those

not fluent in Italian, the tours are offered only in Italian. However, if you have

some facility with the language, you can follow the main points of the narrative.

The guides are very knowledgeable and give a good sense of what it was like to

live as a Carthusian monk (pretty solitary). In addition to the monks, there were

lay brothers there to grow the food, cook, clean, deal with locals, etc. The tour

includes the chapels, with their amazing frescoes, sculptures, and architecture.

The building also includes a pharmacy (which provided one of the main sources

of income for the monks in residence), an olive press, carpentry room, etc. The

contrast between the monks' austere rooms and the luxurious chapels and frescoes Nevertheless, these side trips to the more obscure is quite remarkable. sites can be fascinating and rewarding – and far less

This part of Tuscany has so many famous sites of historic and cultural value crowded as well.that “smaller” ones like the Charterhouse are often overshadowed, for example by

sites like the Campo dei Miracoli in Pisa and Firenze's museums and cathedrals. – by Sydney Smith and Don Griffin

7Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

Trattoria Da Nonna Clara

Via Santa Croce 71

55100 Lucca

Tel. 0583 464307

Mob. 348 3102719

[email protected]

www.trattoriadanonnaclara.it

osteria da nonna clara

See

for total hair care

Shampoo and dry €18.00Cut €13.00/25.00Colour €32.00/35.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00

Hours: Monday 13.30 to 18.00

Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30Piazza San Frediano 3 - Lucca

Tel/fax 0583 467375 [email protected]

We now have a barber for men.Antica Locanda dell’Angelo

in Lucca since 1414currently offering takeaway/delivery services

restaurant in via Pescheria, 21

Tel: +39 0583 467711

The Charterhouse of Calci

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 6

built the first hermitage in the Chartreuse Mountains in France. Hence the name “Carthusians.” The I hermitages were called “Charterhouses” in English.

In the 1360s the Carthusians established a monastery in Calci (the Charterhouse). The Calci Charterhouse was used by the monks for a life of seclusion and contemplation, isolated from the outside world. The Carthusian monks do not engage in pastoral work, rather they live a contemplative life of solitude and follow a meatless dietary regimen.

You can certainly see why they picked Calci, as it is remarkably peaceful and beautiful. As happens with many beautiful places, the monks were eventually expelled, and the Charterhouse used by different rulers, finally again returning to the Carthusians. The current structure was renovated in the 17th and 18th centuries to accommodate the monks fleeing from Napoleon's France as he was closing down the monasteries. Fortunately much of it is still there for us to see. In the 1970s, after the few remaining monks left, the University of Pisa established the Natural History Museum in one part of the Charterhouse and the National Museum of the Monumental Charterhouse of Calci in the other.

Calci is worth visiting both for the Natural History Museum of the University of Pisa and the “Certosa” or Carthusian Monastery adjacent to the Museum. After about a half hour drive from Lucca, either by SS12 or by SP 12 (via Nuova), both connecting to SP 30, you arrive Calci. Two trips may be needed, because at a certain point your mind will be overwhelmed and you will need time to absorb it all in and to process the information.

Returning from Calci, head into the hills on SP 56 and work your way through the mountains to Buti and from there back to Lucca. Last July we could still see the destruction caused by the September 2018 fire. It destroyed over 600 hectares (2.3 square miles) on Mount Serra and threatened the towns at the foot of the mountain, including Calci. Fortunately the towns were spared, but not the beautiful countryside with its olive groves.

n 1084 St. Bruno founded the Carthusian Order and

Page 5: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

he pandemia has led to cancellation of most cultural events in Italy and throughout the world. Lucca is no TTexception. However, the creativity of

artists and musicians knows no bounds and already they are seeking ways to meet the challenge.

On 24 April Animando presented an online lyric concert, registered in the Netherlands by the Associazione Caleidoscopio Musicale. Even if you missed it, it's still not too late. Click on the link: https://youtu.be/KbJSV4SYbEI for a harmonious, uplifting experience. From the lyric tradition, there are pieces by Giordano, Ponchielli, and Verdi (Dio di Giuda from the opera Nabucco). More modern pieces include A call from the Vatican by Maury Yeston (inspired by Fellini's 8½) and No te amo (from a poem by Pablo Neruda) by Maestro Gianmaria Griglio, who also coordinated the concert. The singers are soprano Violetta Lazin and baritone Wiebe Pier-Cnossen.

Celebrating May 1st, the Town of Lucca and the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, together with the Association START, sponsored a video-concert – Dalla Torre al cielo – held atop Torre Guinigi and televised by NoiTV. This production by Simone Rabassini and Paolo Marchetti featured music by Federico Di Robertis and artistic performance by Moneyless.

Lucca Crea, the association responsible for VerdeMura (normally scheduled in April) and Lucca Collezionando (in March), has informed the public that these events have been cancelled for this year. VerdeMura is now planned for 9, 10, 11 April 2021. However, the twentieth anniversary of Murabilia is still scheduled for 4, 5, and 6 September 2020 (subject to further notice). Since this is the two hundredth anniversary of the Lucca Botanical Gardens, it will be a very special event, with entrance to the gardens free on these days. As in past years this gardening festival will take place on the city walls at the historical baluardi San Regolo and La Libertà.

Lucca Collezionando, the market and display dedicated to the world of comics, which takes place at the Polo Fiere of Lucca, has been re-scheduled for 27-28 February of next year. Lucca Tattoo Expo, dedicated to the world of tattoo art and originally planned for April of this year, has been postponed to 25, 26, and 27 September 2020. Finally, MIAC, the trade fair dedicated to the paper manufacturing industry, is scheduled to take place in October 2020.

9Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

Cultural Events in Coronavirus Time

M° Gianmaria Griglio

Soprano Violetta Lazin

Baritone Wiebe Pier-Knossen

VerdeMura 2014

Dalla Terra al cielo. Concert for 1st May, Torre Guinigi, Lucca.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 8

Festival, attracting thousands of spectators and hundreds of musicians from many European countries. EThe Cento Cellos concert shown here took place in

May 2017, along with many other open-air music and dance performances throughout town. The Associazione Musicale Lucchese and the Teatro del Giglio have regretfully informed the public that Lucca Classica, originally scheduled for 29 April to 3 May 2020, will not take place.

In April the Association president Marco Cattani and Teatro administrative-accounting procedures for any refund are being del Giglio director Giovanni Del Carlo were to have announced the finalized. Pursuant to art. 88 of Legislative Decree 17.03.2020 n. Lucca Classica Prize, to be awarded to an international orchestral 18, they will take place in the form of a voucher that can be used director. Unfortunately this is not a safe time to do so. In their own within a year. We remind you that the vouchers obtained as words: We believe that it is the obligation of cultural festivals now reimbursements of tickets / season tickets for the Teatro del Giglio to work at bringing back confidence in shared experiences, as well Prose Season can only be converted into tickets / season tickets as offering a contribution to the economic recovery.... for Prose shows, while the vouchers for tickets / season tickets for

The Festival promoters want to inform ticket holders that the Opera and Dance Seasons can be converted into tickets / they will receive vouchers that can be used within a year. This is subscription fees indifferently for Opera and Dance shows.also true for the Teatro del Giglio season: To all those who wish to As an expression of solidarity, ticket holders can join the have information about tickets and subscription fees for shows #iorinuncioalrimborso (I renounce my reimbursement) that have not been performed (tickets and subscription fees that campaign, which has already involved numerous theatrical and remain valid for the desired recovery dates), we remind you that musical institutions in the world. Giving up ticket refunds and you can contact the theatre ticket office at their new phone subscription fees for suspended or cancelled performances number 366 6593993 (the service is active on Monday, helps theatres to plan future events and overcome financial Wednesday and Friday from 10 am to 1 pm). At present, the IT and difficulties.

ach year in May Lucca hosts the Lucca Classica

Postponed: Lucca Classica 2020

issues, especially those with chronic disease, disability or those PRESS RELEASEexperiencing language or technical barriers.

IOM in Italy to support British Nationals This initiative will provide direct support to British Nationals, to ensure they avoid finding themselves with an irregular status in who want to regulate their status in Italy Italy. It will also help key Italian institutions streamline the

Rome, 18 April 2020 – Supporting British Nationals with the completion of the necessary paperwork. necessary local procedures to obtain and maintain their right IOM's work will complement the UK government's strategy, to be resident in Italy after the end of the transition period. which includes the allocation of £3 million in support of This is the objective of a new programme launched by the organisations helping British Nationals across several European International Organisation for Migration (IOM) with funding countries. This will assist British nationals with bureaucratic and from the UK Government. The British Embassy in Rome will be administrative procedures that are required to regulate their status supporting IOM as it carries out this important work. The in Europe.programme is part of a wider initiative through which the UK We welcome IOM's new service for UK nationals to help them government and IOM aim to reach and provide assistance to regulate their status here in Italy, so they can continue to enjoy approximately 30,000 British citizens in Germany, France, Italy, their rights after the end of the transition period, said Jill Morris, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia and Spain. British Ambassador to Italy.

Laurence Hart, Director for the IOM Mediterranean The new programme will be launched later this month and Coordination Office, said: We are delighted to be able to take will run for 12 months, i.e. until 31 March 2021. forward this extremely useful and valuable activity here in [The measures Italy has put in place in response to the

Italy”.... IOM will facilitate access to the necessary information coronavirus means that UK nationals should not try to

about residency requirements for British Nationals in Italy. We register their residency at this time. IOM stands ready to

will also provide direct support on completing paperwork for all support UK nationals in registering with their local town hall

those who might be having difficulties in taking forward the when restrictions are lifted]. required procedures introduced here.

Information will be made available on dedicated webpages on For further information please contact:

both the IOM and British Embassy in Italy websites (see Living in IOM: Flavio Di Giacomo, Press Office, tel+39.347.0898996, Guide). IOM will also be offering help to individuals with specific email: [email protected][email protected]

Residency Issues for Brits

Piazza del Giglio, Cento Cellos Concert (pre-Covid crowd, 2017)

Page 6: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

11Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

The bridge leaps across the rushing riverwhile colour-filled houses line up each side.The sun-speckled waters gush and quiver

towards their goal, the sea-mouth, broad and wide.

Families of ducks and cormorants swim and diveinto pebbled depths where schools of fish are foodfor thoughts in summer heights when we all strive

for cool peacefulness in a shady wood.

Yet the scene invites and the new brush paintsupon a barely touched canvas frame

while imagination, beyond all constraints,sets the colours down, vivid and aflame.

Such is our day upon this burning hourwhere mind, eye and hand together flower.

– by Francis Pettitt

THE BRIDGE ACROSS THE SERRAGLIO

– painting by Alexandra Cipriani Pettitt

The painting above was created on a summer’s day for the Sapori & Colori Extemporaneous Painting event held in Ponte a Serraglio (Bagni di Lucca) each year. Regretfully, Sapori & Colori ended when the Borgo degli Artisti association terminated its 15 years of activity and closed the gallery along the river. Another local art festival ended a few years earlier, when La Rondine Gallery closed and many artists moved away. Sandra and Francis, who have a home in Longoio (above Bagni), presented these and other poems and paintings in a collection entitled Septet, by Cinquemarzo Editore in 2016.

published

Also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com

For more information: [email protected]

500M FROM LIDO DI CAMAIORE BEACH

Large home (240 sqm) with garden. 4 bed-rooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. APE Cl. G. €580,000. (Ref. 1194)

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 202010

Between Lucca and Pisa

Enchanting 18th century villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms with A/C, 6 bathrooms). Already booked by seasonal renters for much of the summer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & forests you will find a gazebo, green-house, swimming pool, rare plants, even parrots! Conveniently located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the sea. Buses pass the gates hourly. APE Cl. G. 3.5 million euros. (Ref. 1197)

Near the Lucca walls

Spacious,

beautiful home

in Sant'Anna

12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms, 3 baths), garden & patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. € 850,000. (Ref. 1144)

In the heart of Lucca, 2 elegant top-floor (70 steps up) apartments originally from the 1600s with many beautiful features such as tiled (Tessieri) or terracotta floors, 4m ceilings, some frescoed ceilings, skylights exposed beams, open fireplace, windows looking over Via Fillungo & towards Torre delle Ore. The apartments have been merged into one, but they can easily be restored to their original situation, with separate entrances. Each would then have 1-2 bedrooms, bath, living & large kitchen (approx. 110sqm x 2, 220sqm total). €410,000 each, must be purchased together. Ideal for friends or family wanting 2 adjacent apartments or rental apartment. (Ref. 1184)

Office space that can be changed into an apartment. Three rooms on the ground floor of an historic building in Lucca Centro Storico. €130,000. (Ref. 1241)

Capannori, 5 km to Lucca Centro

Beautiful gated family home with 2 kitchens, 4 bathrooms, 6-7 bedrooms, 300 sqm total. In traditional Tuscan style with solar panels, wood & gas burning fireplace, A/C, veranda shading the home in summer. On a quiet coun-try road with views in all directions. This could be the ideal home for an extended family, small farm, or hospitality project. APE Cl. D. € 390,000. (Ref.1228)

Lucca, outside Porta Elisa

Spacious first-floor apartment (120 sqm, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths) with terrace. Very convenient to the city center. €230,000. (Ref. 1242)

NEW LISTING

LUCCA CENTRO STORICO

Spacious first-floor apartment with 2 bed-rooms, 1 bath, terrace. A/C kitchen. 110 sqm. € 389,000. (Ref. 1247)

YOUR GARDEN

FOR LONG OR SHORT RENTLucca, outside Porta Elisa

2 bedroom first floor apartment, 90 sqm, with dining + living room, kitchen, wifi, terrace near the walls. (Ref. 1247)

PROPERTIES FOR SALE OR RENT by owner

Page 7: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

hen thinking of generations at risk, we normally refer to the younger generations. We wonder if they will be able to find their WWplace in a world where things like getting a

job, starting a family, making ends meet, finding resources to access higher education, receiving social recognition for deserved merits, and so forth, are becoming increasingly difficult. We also worry about the fact that often they cannot cope with the growing pressure put on them by society. Many of them are in fact becoming psychologically frailer and frailer, we find them frequently seized by panic attacks, they lack resilience, and some of them are either at the mercy of an illusory desire and deceiving prospect of easy success, or of a general feeling of frustration, or perhaps of both. There is the risk that they might lose their way or never find it.

Surely, we should not stop worrying about the young, but the coronavirus emergency has made us set our eyes on a different generation, the one that seen as a group, not in the specificity of individual families, is at best taken for granted, and at worst seen as a problem in itself. We could clearly perceive this at the beginning of the spread of the contagion, when the first deaths arrived in our country and the media kept reassuring everyone that it was 'just the elderly who were dying'. No less painful was the idea that, due to the lack of intensive care units, doctors were sometimes faced with the difficult choice of deciding who was more likely to make it, and we can presume that the elderly were often the ones who got the worst. We all know that especially in the north of Italy, like in the Bergamo area, almost an entire generation has been wiped away by the virus. And we know that so far, several RSAs (health residences for the elderly) have been dramatically affected by the virus, among them the notorious Pio Albergo Trivulzio in Milan, nicknamed La Baggina, the shelter of underprivileged elderly people since the eighteenth century. The imbalance between the importance given by our society to economic development and to those human roots that connect our past to our present has significantly emerged in the difficult contingency brought about by the coronavirus.

But we also know that grandmothers and grandfathers do not want to be totally crippled by events; with an incredible power of

inviting them to use this suspended time in lockdown to put down into writing their own histories. She has invited them to include

not just personal family events, but also an outlook on the ever-changing society in which they have lived, because looking at it from the inside means producing something unique, something that no external writer could ever express. This is in fact social history narrated from the inside. The invitation has been welcomed by the local administration and the

Casa della Memoria e della Pace di Lucca is now available to receive and diffuse the personal memoirs which can be accompanied by photographs.

resilience they want to fight back against the risk of oblivion, and It is certainly understood that the stories of those who do not here is a very interesting example. Annamaria Bagordo Altamura, have any grandchildren are equally important. Their voice must a granny of two, has recently made an appeal to grandparents, be heard through writing probably even more, as they do not have

the opportunity to pass it on through oral transmission, to younger next of kin. The whole of the elderly generation represents that common cultural heritage which can contribute to teach the young how to face the challenges of contemporary society, as Annamaria Bagordo Altamura says: We are physically the weakest, but we are the strongest in terms of courage, self-sacrifice, endurance and determination. The knowledge of the past can help you make the right choices in the present.

– by Chiara Calabrese

Send your history to [email protected]

An Endangered Generation’s Resilient Appeal

Grandmother & grandchild, Spain 1956. Photographer Bill Perlmutter. www.keblog.it

The author with her Nonna Teresa

13Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

Also visible at

www.luccagrapevine.com

PROPERTIES FOR SALE by ownerFor more information: [email protected]

Bagni di Lucca Villa

Spacious workshop for creative projects (former photographer's studio), with luminous indoor/outdoor spaces. Covered terrace for outdoor meals or projects. Adjacent to this a 110sqm first-floor apartment on the main street of town. Purchase one or both spaces. €330,000 total: €220,000 workshop, €110,000 apartment. (Ref. 1227)

COLOGNORA (UNESCO Village)

Beautifully restored home located in the middle of a friendly mountain village. Two bedrooms, one bathroom, large new kitchen, two living room areas, two fireplaces, and private garden. Chestnut beams and terra cotta floors. Only € 85,000. (Ref. 1232)

RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river. € 370,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1179)

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bed-rooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for stroll-ing through meadows & forest. Wheelchair access & large parking area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 595,000. By owner. (Ref. 1147)

Near Pescaglia/Loppeglia

Charming country house facing west (towards the sea). 130 mq. Plus adjacent house requiring complete restoration, also 130 mq. Each house has 3-4 bedrooms, 2 baths, 2 fireplaces. €170,000 for both. (Estimate €75,000+ for restoration). (Ref. 1243)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165,000. (Ref. 1188)

NEW LISTING

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 12

Bagni di Lucca. lovely modern apartment, ground floor, with parking space, garden. 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, living/dining/kitchen, storage room. approx. 70sqm. €142,000. Tel. 320 0879190. (Ref. 1237)

Bagni di Lucca

(Fornoli)

Conveniently located near the train station, 2 bedroom ground floor apartment with large kitchen, sit t ing/dining room, large bathroom, cantina & utility room. 120sqm. €120,000 negotiable. APE Cl. G. (Ref. 1219)

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15Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

All of these practices, after times of

relative inactivity, are like drinking a

cool glass of water on a hot day when

you're really thirsty (or a beer if that

analogy works better for you). They

being 'too early'. Despite regulations,

we'll all have our own internal sense of

what is right for us and will follow our

own instincts. And these will differ from

person to person. bring delicious relief, an expansive In any case, social distancing in one relaxation – that aaaaahhhhhh feeling. form or another is going to be a thing for There's a reason we stretch when we us for pretty much the rest of the year, wake up too, and more sustained and being such social animals, this is exercise is a logical progression from going to get increasingly difficult. Right this. No lycra is required, nor do we need now, we're craving the company of to retire to a cave in meditation, shave others, and the lack of it can result in our heads or wear ochre ('though the physical illness as well as be detrimental option's there). We don't suddenly start our mental well-being. The most quoting the Dalai Llama (no bad thing important thing to do is to acknowledge either). But we just might find a new and accept that this is the case. Denial, or route to energy that we can harness in a kindness to ourselves at a the sense that everyone else is doing OK so we must too, won't time when we really need it. help. We all need to be honest with ourselves and others - and share

As suggested by the above descriptions, these practices focus our feelings (yeah, I know guys, I know...). We must stay on more than physical health. The relationships between breathing connected and continue to reach out to others rather than assume and mood are well-documented, and familiar to many. Just that they'll automatically be OK as conditions ease. Finding a consider how we breathe more quickly and shallowly when we're benefit or an unexpected pleasure (no matter how small) can afraid, or count to twenty before speaking when we're angry, always be shared with someone. And taking time to think about letting our breath calm us first. As anyone who has practised any of how we ourselves are feeling each day can become an exercise in the above will tell you, they include techniques designed to bring contemplation. Let's face it, we live in a society that constantly an equilibrium to the respiratory system. The relationship between demands something of us, that sets the pace, and that sucks us into breathing and movement makes them compelling activities to take its vortex. Instead, we can choose, at this time, to create a counter-part in, and they truly can help us to find that calm place that might flow, one in which we decide that we understand the need to allow have eluded us in recent weeks. ourselves and others the gift of time. Time to sit with our feelings,

Self-kindness is just giving ourselves a break, remembering to recover, and to heal from the bruising weeks we've been that when we get something wrong it's because we're human, not through. because we've failed in any way. Kindness to ourselves quickly We know we can do this, and in so doing, come out of this expands into kindness to others. We've all been reaching out from disaster as a stronger community than we went in.our homes and many of us have been meeting – for example for

virtual aperitivo, to take yoga classes, learning to cook, and much – by Lesley Robertsmore. All of these are great for our mental well-being too. It might

be wise, however, to consider that anxieties might rise rather than

fall once restrictions lift. Only this week (in April), The Local (And Namaste will be my greeting to you all when we're out reported that many shops who've been given more freedom in the and about. I won't be shaking your hand when we meet. And as first days of wave two, haven't actually opened from a sense of it for kissing...? Don't even go there. Just give me time.)

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crosswords, means neural pathways decline and we forget how to

different ways. Many of us are cooped up in small do it. If we understand this, we'll have much more patience with

houses and apartments, perhaps with small ourselves when we find we get puffed out on the stairs or tire after WWchildren and pets. Others haven't had that 'luxury', walking even a short distance. In order to recover, to be able to

being front line workers who've had to head out each day to keep us bend, reach and stretch, there are lots of anxiety-releasing forms of

alive, supplied with essential services, to support the vulnerable, exercise that we can follow– all available in various forms on the

and provide power, food - and regular updates on the situation. web. My suggestions below share at least one thing in common:

Those who live alone may have found the isolation unbearable at they're well-tested practices that combine improvements in

times while families with insufficient space may have had to health, fitness and general well-being, and they focus on the breath

manage relationship difficulties as anxieties have built. Still others - central to the management of our emotions:

have been at home nursing illnesses which have gone unseen, and Tai Chi (an abbreviated term for supreme, ultimate boxing) –

perhaps untreated, in the present viral crisis. a healing art that originated in China more than two thousand

Whatever the differences in the way we've experienced this years ago. It's a practice of continuous, slow and relaxed flowing

unprecedented lock-down, there is a growing sense that we are, movements that has a wide range of health benefits. Tai Chi is not

truly, all in this together. The lack of choice the virus has imposed just a form of physical exercise (although its slow rhythmic

on us has been shared by everyone, as has the realisation that we movements that involve large muscle groups make it popular as

are in control of absolutely nothing – except, that is, the way we such). It generates lots of energy and focuses on breathing to

choose to respond to our situations. create calm.

As I write this (and probably as you're reading it) we're all QiGong (life energy work) – also meditative movement

excitedly following news of an eventual lifting of restrictions on combined with breathing, QiGong is generally a lighter practice

movement, a potential timetable showing when our favourite than Tai Chi. Lots of the exercises can be done lying down. Like

cafés and restaurants will re-open and we can, again, share the Tai Chi, while QiGong provides physical conditioning, followed

simplest yet happiest times with friends. I know I am. Bring me a rigorously, it's also a healing art that generates energy, massages

coffee and sfoglia in a sunny piazza, and I won't ask for anything organs, and re-energises the central nervous system.

else. Ever. But even then the uncertainty won't leave us. And Yoga (to unite) – there are as many versions of yoga as there

Lucca as it re-emerges, might not be the same as it was. We may be are yoga teachers, and it can be as gentle or as challenging as you

more reluctant to go out than we can currently imagine, and the choose. Restorative yoga helps to provide a physical and mental

wonderful carefree city we love could be some time away yet. The balance to prevent stress and anxiety and involves a lot of lying

result is likely to be a simmering communal anxiety. down under a blanket (one of my favourites). Yin yoga holds

It's therefore more important than ever that we continue to postures for longer than one might usually do, targeting

look after ourselves and others, and pay close attention to our connective tissue, including fascia and muscles, to provide a deep

health, both physical and mental. Happily there are lots of ways in relaxation and an opening up of energy channels. Vinyasa yoga,

which we can do this. rather like Tai Chi, involves larger rhythmic movements that

Physical confinement makes us stiff and restricts movement. reduce stress, increase circulation and improve flow of energy

What's more, our bodies actually 'forget' how to move. It's true. It's around the body. It also helps to condition postural muscles and

the nervous system that organises how muscle, connective tissue develop a strong sense of balance.

and bone work together so that we can move. In other words, Pilates (named for the inventor) – a method of exercise

movement is fundamentally a neurological thing and, more than characterised by low-impact flexibility and muscular strength and

anything else, practice makes perfect. Lack of practice, as for endurance movements. It focuses on postural alignment, core

example when learning to play a musical instrument or doing strength and muscle balance.

e're all responding to the coronarvirus crisis in

Namaste

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 14

In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity – Albert Einstein

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Isolation or peace and quiet?

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17Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

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19Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

n the Middle Ages we had the Plague. Reportedly Thomas Cromwell's wife and his two daughters died within a day when he was out on the King's business. INow we have Covid 19. As we all struggle to manage

ourselves at this difficult time, we can think of the good which is coming out of such stringent times, as well as the bad. Don't sigh just yet please – keep reading.

A friend of mine, Stella Millburn, sent me a wonderful picture of a young deer leaping and gambolling in the waves by the sea. Stella said she had often seen deer tracks (above right) while she camped on the beach, but she had no idea that the deer came down to play rather than to eat (no munchies for them on the unbroken sands...). So can we ponder on the opposite of lock DOWN, which might be the freedom to fly upwards, unfettered and finding new ways of experiencing the world.

In Tuscany at the time of writing this, there have been 752 deaths, but none reported in the hill town of Barga where the residents always talk of la buona aria.

opinion riding on the surf around the Even in cities the air has become purer, Internet on technological waves. Frequent more breathable, and while the streets may 20 second hand-washing is at least be empty our lungs may be expanding, so something all seem to agree on. that we too can experience the energy of

More and more of us are finding that the lithe young deer – or at least more it's better not to join this swell. This doesn't energy than we've been experiencing mean putting one's head in the sand, as hitherto. Yes indeed, there are the down-some cynics may argue, but rather to revel sides too – many more domestic abuse in the friendliness of neighbours, the cases reported, and how scary indeed to be discovery that there are many little things locked up with someone who abuses you – which make up our world as well as the and a downturn in mental health as those broad political sweeps.already teetering on the edge of depression

Yes, there is kindness in this new fall down down down during the dreaded world of ours. As the poet Philip Larkin lockdown. said, We should be careful of each other, When will it end? When will 'normal' we should be kind, while there is still time. return? Will it ever return? These are Larkin said of his home town of Lichfield imponderable questions and there is not in England, God, this place is dull. But one of us who revels in uncertainty. This is there is something to see everywhere, and why we fill our 'normal' world with never more than in Tuscany, where he timetables, duties, oughts and shoulds. It visited Vallombrosa in the mountain chain may be about much more than making of Pratomagno. His words below may money, though that of course is something resonate with many of us now:which becomes more problematic as

economies dwindle. One can be So through the dark I walk, and feel

overwhelmed by the conflicting advice and The ending year about me lapse,Dying, into its formal shapesOf field and tree;And think I feel its faint appealAddressed to all who seek for joy,But mainly me:

From those constellations turnYour eyes, and sleep; for every manIs living; and for peace uponHis life should rest;This must everybody learnFor mutual happiness, that trustAlone is best.

– by Judith Edwards

[email protected]

Looking Up from Lockdown

Barga, photo by Giuseppe Luti

Deer playing in the waves, photo from a video by Anthony Martin

Pollution-free Rome during COVID 19. Photo from video by Luigi Palumbo (www.invidio.it)

Interviews: Living with Covid 19

fine. Friends in Bergamo were also ill, and she was acquainted say. Talking with friends and reading Facebook with a man in Lucca's Balestrieri (crossbowers) group who died.postings over the last two months, I noticed Giorgio, who lives in the countryside, said, I hope that Wcertain ideas being expressed over and over. This everything will go back to the way it was before, except that we

led me to conduct a brief survey. I spoke with six women and one will be more careful and the health care better organized and man: of these, three are Italians, two Americans, one Canadian, a better financed. I would like my life to be as it was before. I want to German, and an Australian. Five live inside the walls of Lucca, return to my town, to visit my son and my friends. Giorgio and two outside. The youngest one is 35, another is 60, and the compared this period of time to the polio scare, which he rest are in their 70s. As you can see, this is not a scientifically remembered from the 1950s. That time was worse, he said, but representative survey, which would require a wider cross- now as then, we need to find a cure, a vaccine. Living in isolation section, especially in terms of age. with a partner is not bad, it's a totally new experience, and there is

I asked these people just a few questions: How will the world television, the computer, the garden, and home repairs. Giorgio's be different after Covid 19, or after Lockdown? Do you know brother's friend, age 67, died from Covid after being exposed anyone who has been directly affected, who has been sick or during his work just outside Lucca, in early April. For a while died? How do you feel in quarantine? Are you alone? Do you there was the fear that his brother might have been exposed too.have a project? In the discussion below, the names have been Tina, living in town, finds that people are very careful and changed for reasons of privacy. will become even more so afterwards, worried about contagion,

The youngest subject, who I will call Joan, was the most but kind to those who need help. There will be big changes, with optimistic. She said that after Covid people will pay more fewer unnecessary purchases such as stylish clothing, but people attention to others, will help each other, will buy food for those will still want to have their vacations. Living in lockdown has who need help. As an example, she cited an engineer in been difficult because Tina and her husband have had plumbers in Montecarlo who has taken responsibility for 15 families, buying their home due to problems with old pipes. She goes out as little as them groceries and paying their utility bills. She thinks that possible, and her husband can't go to the gym or walk around town people may feel less frustrated in traffic, though they might (which he should do for medical reasons). Tina feels disheartened suffer from depression or PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder) and tired out. She is losing interest in reading and television. She because of money problems. There may be more suicides. Or hopes life will be more relaxed and less stressful in the future. people might read and write more poetry. Karen, who also lives in town, said that life will change in

Joan doesn't personally know anyone affected, except for the terms of how people spend money. They will spend less on travel, Mayor of Lucca who is now well, and her neighbour's adult luxury items, and restaurants. She and her husband don't feel alone children who live in Belgium. They contracted the virus but or depressed because every day at 6 p.m. the neighbours come to recovered without the need for a doctor. their windows to sing and wave their Italian flags. What's more,

Joan has been working on her technological skills, because she also has a daughter and son-in-law living nearby. Her projects she is a teacher, working online. She also participated in an are sorting photos, writing stories, studying Italian, and caring for online orchestral concert with the University of Pisa entitled the plants in the courtyard. Her husband has been drawing, and Distanti ma Vicini (Far Apart yet Close Together); the conductor both are actively in contact with friends and relatives via Facebook re-assembled each musician's individually performed part. and phone calls. They haven't been directly affected, but a friend's

Having a live-in partner, she says she is not talking to the relative died, and they knew of a nun in Lucca who also died from refrigerator. Though their home is small he goes out for work, so the virus.they have enough space. Sometimes they play chess. Finally, I spoke with Luciana, who lives in an apartment just

Helga, my next subject, said, I hope people will concentrate outside town. She said that the fears and worries about leaving the on their core, what matters to them, and what is essential, to home will remain, especially for the elderly. People may decide to shake off mere entertainment and time-fillers or embellishments. wear masks for a long time. They will gradually return to walking

Her friend's uncle here in Lucca died from Covid. Helga said on the walls. I am used to it, she said, because I have lived alone she has also seen the financial effect on people, especially small for a long time, I do my regular things at home, but hope all will shops, and can sense their fears about business survival. A return to normal. The young generally have all they need and woman who helps her, the mother of three children, is finding life more, she said, at least here in Lucca. She too knew of someone very difficult. She has no free time, no personal time. who had died, a medical doctor in his 60s from Capannori.

Helga, though, feels relatively safe. She was more scared Reflecting upon these comments, I am surprised to learn how about a month ago, but now uses this time as a retreat space, to many know someone who has died. This fact in itself is bound to develop her art and creativity. Being married, she is not alone. create anxiety. Less surprising is to hear that most people are able They live in a shielded environment, without shortages, and have to live alone (or with their partners) without too much stress, enough space and individual interests. But staying home, she though obviously 4 to 6 weeks is not a very long time. Having says, they are missing out on the arrival of spring. children at home would surely complicate the equation, as Helga

Mary, an American, compared the current situation to 9-11, pointed out. In Italy we hear of spousal abuse; fortunately my World War II, and other catastrophes. She feels that we must sample didn't reflect this at all, on the contrary. What's more, for change in order to adapt, both personally and interpersonally. pensioners over 60, employment issues are not a main issue. They Being a fairly introverted individual, the experience of being are more concerned about catching the virus. My own experience enclosed in a small apartment is not a problem, but she feels has been to feel more compassion, because even if we are all in the agoraphobic when she goes outside, and is missing her travels. same boat, we are by no means equally exposed or equipped for Thanks to music, language studies, CSI, and books, Mary has what is happening. enough to keep busy. When she first arrived in Lucca two months ago, she was ill and maybe she had Covid herself, but now she is – by Norma Jean Bishop

e are living in very strange times, unique I would

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 18

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21Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

n normal times I do a fair bit of commuting between two countries, the UK where I Iwas born and Italy where,

because of my parents' mixed marriage and my own, I have residence, relatives and friends.

One question I ask myself is, finding myself constricted in the UK for the duration of the health crisis, would I have preferred to be in the same situation in Italy? The answer is a very difficult one. In practical terms, regarding the severity of the implementation of government Covid-19 regula-tions, I think it's better for me here. In theoretical terms, however, considering how the government is acting in the crisis, then I think Italy would have been the better option.

The Italian government has clearly dealt much more hailing from megaphones. Indeed, entry into parks (for daily promptly and severely with the crisis than the UK. I hear from exercise only) has been conclusively approved. Regent's park was friends in Florence and Rome that every step outside one's house full of sunbathers last week-end, in the spate of the lovely weather has to be justified and accompanied by a self-certification form the capital continues to have. We are not restricted to shopping for detailing one's personal details and the reason for making the food and medicines in Brent (where I am living) but can freely journey. They have told me of the frequent presence of access food stores in Hillingdon, Barnet, or any other London surveillance helicopters and drones (c.f. Orwell's 1984 Thought borough. Bus services are certainly reduced and the part of the bus Police helicopters flying past peoples' windows). Every day one nearest to the driver is (inconsistently, it must be said) cordoned is likely to hear warnings from police car loudhailers to stare a off, but there is no prohibition to using public transport for any casa (stay at home). Moreover, the 'necessary' journeys have to be journey. It's certainly more free and easy in the capital. The made within one's own commune or borough. A friend from absence of police is startling. Perhaps it's because we are all Bagni di Lucca on his way to a well-known discount store was supposed to be responsible citizens, able to impose lockdown and stopped and warned, as the store was located in the adjacent social distancing by ourselves.commune of Borgo a Mozzano. He was informed that the next In terms of the effectiveness of the government's response to time he tried to do the same journey he would be fined. the Covid-19 pandemic then clearly Italy is the safer place to be. (Sometimes these fines can approach well over a thousand euros.) The UK government's response to the health crisis has been Of course, one must always wear a sanitary mask when exiting somewhat delayed. The recent article in the authoritative UK from one's house. Failure to wear one will attract yet another fine. Sunday Times gives it to us straight: Britain was in a poor state of

readiness for a pandemic. Emergency stockpiles of PPE had severely dwindled and gone out of date after becoming a low priority in the years of austerity cuts. The training to prepare key workers for a pandemic had been put on hold for two years while contingency planning was diverted to deal with a possible no-deal Brexit.

The UK has apparently sleep-walked into disaster. Indeed, Prime Minister Signor Conte, who is firmly handling the crisis in

At least one of our Italian relatives has been penalized heavily for not having the required self-certification form on them and engaging in 'unnecessary' journeys, i.e. journeys that are not directed to the nearest food store or pharmacy. More shop categories are now, however, beginning to open up. In particular, children's clothing (after all children do grow!), bookshops

(absolutely necessary to avoid total boredom), and hardware shops. (How are you progressing with your reading of the complete works of Dostoevsky?) Italy, did warn the UK PM of what would happen to the ex Regina

What is sad about the Italian situation is that if you are a city dei mari (queen of the seas) if strong measures did not replace dweller the chances are that you are living in a flat with, at the dithering government advice. Our PM, meanwhile, was too busy most, a balcony to catch that Mediterranean sun at odd spots shaking hands with corona virus patients at the time.during the day. It's only the luckier people who can afford a So to sum up:separate house and garden. However, if you live in the country, in Practically, I'm better off in the UK where I'm staying in semi-a small town, or village, then you may be much better off. Many detached, can go to any food store I like, and can access public dwellings have an accessible garden, even a small one. Around parks and transport.Bagni di Lucca, your house may be surrounded by a garden or Theoretically, I'm better off in Italy where the government has orto (allotment) and, in many cases, an ample stretch of orchard handled the situation with determination and strictness and has and meadow. flattened the curve, something which has yet to happen in

In the UK so far such strict rules have not been implemented. Brexitland.Here we have no helicopters snooping on people's activities, – by Francis Pettittdrones have been criticized and discouraged, and there are no You can follow Francis’ blog atpolice cars circulating the streets with vociferous warnings http://longoio3.wordpress.com

The Best Place to Be during a Pandemic?

Where I'm at: The British 'semi' provides a life-line for many inhabitants of these islands.

s I walk through the cobblestone streets of Lucca with my little dog, there is a deafening sound of silence. This usually vibrant tourist town in Tuscany which, at AAthis time of year, begins to swell with tourists from

near and far is now empty. Lucca is always on the tourists' agenda, not only for its

colourful history and culture, but the sheer beauty of its well-preserved Tuscan wall. But there are no tourists, or locals, frolicking around now.

It feels like I've stepped into a dream, to the village where Sleeping Beauty waited all that time for her Prince Charming to gallop through the tall grasses, jump off his horse and, with a gentle kiss, bring her to life.

Yes, Spring has come; the grass is growing ferociously; the weeds are pushing up in the town's ancient pathways, and all while deafening silence allows you to hear the lilting sounds of a myriad of birdlife chirping happily throughout what is now our lifeless town.

When will I wake from this dream?For me, only a few weeks back, my daily life in this amazing

city was full of noise, vibrancy and a very busy 'out and about' hour it's harder to plan ahead, even knowing there will be light at schedule. My day has altered so dramatically, like a jolt to the the end of the tunnel. It doesn't shine clearly – well, not quite yet. system, and all the future adventures that were planned and In the 40-plus days since Italy was put into full lockdown, we booked are no more. have had flights cancelled two days short of us flying to Australia,

In the past weeks, all our lives have been impacted in one way leaving us wondering if it would be better to 'bunker down here' or or another by the Covid-19 pandemic, and with every waking try to get to the other side of the world where the contemplation of

lockdown was about to begin. Thankfully, Italians are very spirited and will not succumb.

At 6 pm – from almost day one of lockdown – windows are flung open around our apartment on Via Fillungo. And all these days on, locals from the apartments take turns in providing us with an appropriate selection of music, blaring it out for all those who live around the nearby streets.

Some of us sing, more vocally than others, while others smile brightly and wave Italian flags enthusiastically. We knew very few of our neighbours before the pandemic, perhaps just a nod or a wave as we went about our business. However, over the last 40 days, we all have found something in common. We all desire to unite and bring a little happiness into our local piazza, and even the locals that don't live nearby walk past and are enraptured by the sound of the music, and they too eagerly gaze up at the flag-filled windows. Some dance to the beat of the music, and others clap and wave. Even the local farmacista takes the time to step out of her shop to wave and greet us.

Our gathering concludes each evening with the rousing Italian anthem. This is when the flags are flung at their best, so we quickly acquired an Italian flag to hang out our window and wave proudly.

Yes, the Italian spirit is alive and well in Lucca. After each nightly performance, we close our windows and return to our safe haven, within the walls of our home, wearing yet another smile and looking forward to tomorrow's selection.

More importantly, we look forward to the day when we can greet our new neighbourhood friends – in person – and thank each other for the simple joy we created together, while also quietly remembering those who have lost loved ones to this unimaginable event.

And when I look back on this period in time, I will always be thankful for staying safe here in Lucca.

– by Sue Perry

Safe at Home in Lucca

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 20

The Perry family: Bob, Sue, Toto

Page 12: May 2020 G TUSCANY’S RAPEVINE€ 2 · sive, but with a different narrative. The photos give you a sense of the range of exhibits. The only way to see the monastery is with a guide

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

LESSONS & COURSES

Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636 - fax: +39 0583 419451 [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)

Accountant and Auditor Dott Paola Girolami (University of Pisa and Bristol U.K.). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel +39 0583 471734, fax + 39 0583 471751 [email protected] - www.studiocommercialistagirolami.it English/French/Italian.

Dental Surgeon Dr Rogier Staal, University of Amsterdam. Amsterdam Dental Studio, Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel 0583 953633. Dutch/English/French/German/ Italian. email: [email protected]

Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 492853.

Dental Surgeon and Dentist Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Studio Odontostomatologico Martini, Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, email: [email protected]

Lawyer Daria Mariani (English spoken). VISA, permesso di soggiorno, rental contracts, purchasing houses, EN translation of deeds, assistance before the Notary Public. [email protected] (Ref. 1191)

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo works with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) 0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 817)

Landscape design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. 349 284 5399 or email [email protected] www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572)

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

Learn Italian while having fun: individual and group lessons with a qualified teacher of Italian to foreigners. Culture, conversation, Italian grammar and a good coffee! First les-son for free. S. Filippo area but possibility of meeting also in the historical center. For in-formation: Tania Luciani, 328/6861335. [email protected] (Ref. 1244)

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group les-sons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting assistance with relocat-ing. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)

UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)

Retired Scottish woman looking for reliable person to share flat in San Concordio area from March to end of June 2020. 250 euros per month. I would also consider renting a room in a house for similar cost and can help childminding/pet care/help with learning English. contact: [email protected] (Ref. 1245)

For sale: 54 volume set of the “Great Books of the Western World” in English. 3 Introductory volumes & 51 volumes from Homer to Freud. Excellent condition. Price €100. Email: [email protected] (Ref. 1246)

VARIOUS

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]

Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719

Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements and assumes no responsibility for their content.

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

To advertise, please use the form on our webpage or send us an email at: [email protected] also Properties for Sale on pages 4, 8, 17.

Classified Advertisements Also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com

TRITI REMOVALS AND STORAGEVia Don Emilio Angeli (già Via Stradone), 176

Segromigno in Piano, LuccaMondays to Saturdays 8am to 8pm

Tel. 0583 927945

[email protected]

23Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020

FOR RENT

In the heart of Lucca Centro Storico, elegant 70 sqm apartment €1000/month. Marble bath, frescoed ceilings, terracotta floors, air conditioning. Furnished or unfurnished. Few stairs. Contact Grapevine for more information. (Ref. 1248)

Pull me up, U

Cruciwordby Helen Askham

ACROSS

1 Orrendo (10) 15 Raccogliere da terra (4,2)7 Unworthy (7) 17 Capital(e) of/di Hawaii (8)8 Up there (5) 18 Teso (4)10 Jesus (4) 21 Hoarse (5)11 Sponge, mascarpone and 22 Stato sudamericano (7)

coffee dessert (8) 23 Impegno (10)13 Razziale (6)

DOWN

1 Ade (5) 12 Sala da ballo (8)2 Meat sauce (4) 14 Kangaroo (7)3 Esotico (6) 16 Il più blù (6)4 Dalmazia (8) 19 Controllo dei conti (5)5 Staccare (7) 20 Tracksuits (4)6 Re Artù (4,6)9 Usurper (10)

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2020 22

April solution

Our minds have always been suffocated by distractions

We have never thought so much about our actions

Can't you see we have been moths all our lives

Trying to get to the light … but it's all been lies

The light we look for is within ourselves

And we now notice we had put our dreams upon dusty shelves

We are starting to become more part of nature

And I hope that this will be remembered in our future….

– poem & drawing by Farah Shaw

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6

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12

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P S P A R I S P T

E D I T O R S C O R E R

S E T I B I A A O

C A R P N S L I G H T

E C O L O G O A A A

C A A R R O W D

M I N I M E P E N D

U N A I A D L O

A G O N D I S S E C T

M A R L I N C H A K E

B A A O S T A R N

I T T I C O A R C T I C

T A S K A T E H A

L

E

Light Within

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Contacts:[email protected]

Tel. 0583 394412 (fax 0583 395814)

Tenuta

MARIA TERESA

Wines, Oils, Honey, Pasta …All made on the estate,

using traditional methods

15 minutes from Lucca at: San Martino in Vignale 55060

Via per Pieve Santo Stefano 3427/a

Hours: 10 to 12.30 Mondays/Saturdays10 to 12.30, 14.30 to 17 Tuesdays to Fridays

Wine & oil tastings

Three beautiful villas, each with its own

private swimming pool …

From 3 bedrooms 2 baths to 5 bedrooms 5 bathsSurrounded by nature, olive groves, and silence