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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

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For food lovers and professionals alike, daily cooking classes: fresh pasta and sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan specialties, risotto, pizza, focaccia, Hands-on classes in a relaxed, fun atmosphere. Participants cook the dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home-made liqueurs. Highly recommended by Tripadvisor!

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Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus, artichokes. Specialties from the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T-Bone steak), lamb, mixed grill. Specialized in seafood dishes, with fresh fish every day!

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Spiced traditional Pumpkin Pie with cranberries and a pumpkin Tiramisu

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(by request, vegetarian alternative: rice with vegetables)

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cripsy prosciuttoa secret pumpkin recipe by the Italian stowaway with sage fried shrimp or

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Seafood salad “New World” with shrimp, squid, mussels, peppers and baby corn

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Contents

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine di Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A.Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed with a frame contain paid submissions.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine November 2017

In these busy days, with the excitement of Comics, Photolux, Desco, etc., Grapevine is pleased to announce that we now have official sponsorship (patrocinio) from the Town of Lucca, as you can see from the logo on our cover. This means that we can offer our magazine for sale at the city's Tourist Office and Youth Hostel, in addition to the news agents with whom we already collaborate. What's more, the Assessor of Education has declared enthusiasm for the Young Writers' Awards that we offered in the past, so we hope to renew this project with the City's support.

In Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Progetto Donna, which focuses on women in the arts and culture, has invited me to speak on 10 February as an entrepreneur (big name for a little magazine!). I am, as the Brits say, chuffed. The discussions will take place between 29 October 2017 and 16 June 2018, generally at 5 or 5.30 pm at the Ridotto of Teatro Alfieri. I draw your attention to the talk by Mary Campbell (who works as a volunteer in Africa and Asia) on 23 March. The other discussions (in Italian) are listed in our What's On pages.

Our junior journalist from Greece, Maria Tsaousidou, is now entering the second month of her Erasmus grant. She has completed several interviews, one of which you can read in this issue, while one of our regular writers, Judith Edwards, has initiated a series entitled Altri tempi … anni fa, to share the thoughts and recipes of Italian elders.

Along with Lucca's vibrant cultural calendar, tante grandi feste, this month we bring you more about harvesting olives. Dedicated readers may notice some different ideas compared to last month's article on this subject. Do your own research, then, and please find time to escape into our peaceful countryside, to walk or bike and breathe clean air or sea breezes….

Finally, Grapevine would like to give a word of thanks to Celia H., a visitor to Lucca who dropped by our office in Via Angelo Custode 3A. She contributed fifty euros to help feed the street cats in our town. Thank you, Celia!

For those who are still in Lucca this month, why not join us for the traditional Thanksgiving lunch on 23 November? See the menu on the facing page, and call or email us to reserve.

Warm wishes to all!– Norma

Editorial

2017November

Luminarprint S.r.l. Via Gramsci, 11 Fornacette di Calcinaia - Pisa

cell 327 6548857 - 393 [email protected]

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o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng

Art/Music/Books/Beauty

Traditions & History

Spotlight

Food & Drink

Home & Garden

Events of the Month

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals

Honouring Geminiani 4

The Rich Uncle in Italy 20

Encounters with Excellence 6The Brotherhood of the Desert 7

The Desco, Tastes and Talents 10Cycling to the Supermarket 22Recipes and Remembrances 23

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Puccini’s Love Affair with America 5News from the Boccherini Institute 5Mediterraneo, A World of Photography 8An English Room with an Italian View 9Comics Artist Federico Bertolucci 19

The Smithy, Carlo Galgani 21

Mother Nature’s Olive Oil 24

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Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

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Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseJudith EdwardsSimone LippiSue PerryFrancis PettittDonna PilletereJenny Schutz

Maria Tsaousidou

Marketing & DistributionClaudia CasoliDiana GattiChiara Grassini

Adam Walker

Carol Tomlinson

Silvano Simi

Cover: Superheroes on the Walls (Lucca)by Marcella Smith


VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

rancesco Xaverio Geminiani's statue in Piazza Guidiccioni, unveiled last month by Mayor Alessandro Tambellini, brings the number of statues dedicated to Lucca's heritage of great composers Fto four. There's Puccini's in Piazza Cittadella, inaugurated in 1994,

Alfredo Catalani's at Baluardo San Paolino, dating from 1954, and Boccherini's cello-playing one in front of the music school named after him and placed there in 2008.

Geminiani (1687-1762) perfected his studies in Rome. A gifted violinist, he was much influenced by Arcangelo Corelli. In 1714 Francesco moved to London, where he scored a great success with his concerti grossi and violin teaching. (His Treatise on the Fundamental Principles of Violin Playing is a key text for anyone playing late baroque music.) The composer died in Dublin, but his remains were later re-buried in Lucca's San Francesco Church, where there is a memorial plaque.

Geminiani's statue is placed at one end of the square, and is the only one of the four memorials which is of marble. Showing him with his violin at rest, a little larger than life-size, it is the work of Nicola Domenici from Viareggio.

Any new statue is bound to arouse differing opinions. I leave it to you to form your own.Plans for further Luccan composer statues? Why not one for Francesco Barsanti, who

accompanied Geminiani to the UK and spent much of his career in Edinburgh?

– by Francis PettittYou can follow Francis’ blog at http://longoio3.wordpress.com

The sculpture was donated to the City of Lucca by the Associazione Culturale F. X. Geminiani, in collabora-tion with the Fondazione Banca Del Monte di Lucca,

Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca, and Grande Oriente d’Italia Palazzo Giustiniani.

Honouring GeminianiPuccini’s Love Affair with America

n these months of Puccini's birth (22 December 1858) and death (29 November 1924), Lucca honors its favorite son with Puccini Days. This year the focus is on his IIrelationship with the Americas.

The first of his operas to be set, at least partially, in America was Manon Lescaut. Puccini wrote this opera between 1889 and

After Puccini saw David Belasco's play The Girl of the Golden 1892, basing it on a French story from the 1800s. Manon travels West, he could draw upon a more realistic setting (among the from Amiens to Paris, but after her “fall” she is deported from Le California gold miners of the mid-1800s), and even included Havre to America (her lover Des Grieux goes with her), where she authentic Native American music, adapting Zuni melodies for La dies miserably in the Louisiana desert. Puccini must have known Fanciulla del West. The opera premiered at New York's Metropolitan that Louisiana is more swampland than desert, but this inaccuracy Opera with Enrico Caruso, and Arturo Toscanini conducting. Puccini, (also in the original French story) fitted his artistic purpose.now 52 and a mature composer, was very pleased with this opera.Writing for American Heritage magazine (April 1959, Vol. 10,

La Fanciulla will open the Lucca opera season this year Issue 3), Mary Jane Matz told this story about Puccini's first trip to (18/19 November), in a USA/Italy co-production by the Opera America: On a cold December day in 1906, the tiny Italian village Carolina of Charlotte, New York City Opera, Cagliari Teatro of Torre del Lago was filled with excitement. Virtually the entire Lirico, and Lucca's Teatro del Giglio. Rounding out Puccini Days population—120 men, women, and children—milled about its will be the extraordinary dancers of Union Tanguera from little railroad station to bid farewell to its most eminent citizen, Buenos Aires, with Station Tango (5 January 9pm). leaving that day for New York. One neighbor, with a kind heart but

For a more complete listing of the Teatro del Giglio events this an abysmal ignorance of geography, had brought along a sausage month, please refer to the Calendar (pages 12-13).for delivery to an uncle in Argentina.

Fabrizio Papi, recently announced a 14% growth in enrolments for the 2017-2018 academic year. And thanks to collaborations with the TAML (Associazione Musicale Lucchese), Lucar BMW, and Loggia

Burlamacchi (Masons), three scholarships will awarded to new students in the biennial programs: Ekaterine Gagnidze and Leonardo Macerini (piano) and Agnese Manfredini (flute). The selection committee was made up of music journalist/historian Sandro Cappelletto, music critic Oreste Bossini, and musicologist Guido Salvetti. We look forward to seeing these young talents, all approximately 20-21 years of age, in concerts in the near future.

The Boccherini is the first school in Tuscany to offer accredited courses for new teachers (in a program called FIT, Formazione Iniziale e Tirocinio). Alongside instrumental courses, the School offers a Master in artistic direction and cultural management (MaDAMM), directed by Simone Soldati, as well as the MAI (Music applied to the image), and will be the only Conservatory in Italy to establish a collaboration with Rome's Experimental Center for Cinematography, which includes among its acting faculty Giancarlo Giannini (Geppetto of the 1940 film Pinocchio).

he Boccherini Institute, its president Paolo Cattani and director


News from

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he National Academy of Lincei, the oldest scientific UPCOMING TALKS academy in the world (one of whose first members was Galileo Galilei), collaborating with the Fondazione

(All will be in Italian, although the titles are presented here in TBanca del Monte di Lucca, offer an annual conference English translation. All take place at 5.30 pm):series in Lucca known as Encounters with Excellence. This is an

�opportunity for Italians, and for those non-Italians willing to 10 November, Irene Sanesi. : We are all challenge their linguistic skills (most of the talks include slide prosumers (producers & consumers) in a world where “more is presentations, at least partially in English), to learn about current different”.issues in economics, environment, politics, and education. The � 14 November, Valdo Spini. Climate Changes and speakers are internationally recognized experts and leaders. Environmental Politics.

This year's series began on 10 October with demographer/ � 22 November, Pier Franco Quaglieni. The Influence of

social scientist Massimo Livi Bacci talking about the sustainability Pannunzio in my Life.

of growth from the Industrial Revolution up to the present day. � 6 December, Stefano Capaccioli. Bitcoin, Blockchain,

Bacci was introduced by Lamberto Maffei of the Lincei Academy, Smart Contract and other diabolic behaviors of the Far by Oriano Landucci (president of the Fondazione Banca del Monte Web. A juridical introduction.di Lucca), and by Lucca Mayor Alessandro Tambellini.

� 7 December, Giuseppe O. Longo. The Fascinating and Professor Bacci spoke about the catastrophic and hopeful news Problematic Relationship between Man and Technology. that has emerged over the years. For example, in 1800 the world Coordinated by Lamberto Maffei.population was approximately one billion, while in 2048 according

to predictions it will reach nine billion. The implications of this data alone are huge. There At this point I would suggest we turn to is an enormous environmental impact from the our computers for help in filling in the gaps in growing number of people on the earth, which our knowledge, in anticipation of these is uneven in rich and poor parts of the world, excellent (I speak from past experience) leading to what has been called the presentations. “Malthusian Trap”. Prof. Bacci has played a fundamental role in trying to define and

– by Norma Jean Bishopanticipate such problems, organizing the

International Union for the Scientific Study of These talks are organized by the Population (of which he is now the honorary

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, president), and playing a key role in setting up Fondazione Lucca Sviluppo,the United Nations conferences on growth and

and the Comune of Lucca, sustainability that are held every four years (Mexico 1977, Manila 1981, Firenze 1985, with the collaboration of the Accademia New Delhi 1989, Montreal 1993, Peking Nazionale dei Lincei and Provincia di Lucca1997, …).

Fondazione Banca del Monte di LuccaYou might want to read Massimo Livi Piazza San Martino, 7 Bacci's book Il pianeta stretto (Our Shrinking Tel. +39 0583 464062Planet, English edition by John Wiley & Sons,

[email protected] - 2017), originally published in Italian by Il Mulino (Bologna, 2015). www.fondazionebmlucca.it

Economics and Culture

M A S S I M O L I V I B A C C I

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HARPIST

rturo Paoli (1912-2015) is one of Lucca’s most their lives, translated their language and poems, and created an famous sons. He spent 45 years (1960 to 2005) far illustrated dictionary. He was shot and died among the Tuareg from Italy, mostly in Argentina during the period of during a local insurrection.AA dictatorship, where he founded a brotherhood Fundamental to the choice of Charles De Foucauld, and later

among the poor and dispossessed. He also wrote 50 books, later Arturo Paoli, is the value of distance, isolation, and renunciation translated into four languages, as well as thousands of articles and as a path to spiritual growth and serenity. The Fratelli are advised letters. These documents have been collected in the Arturo Paoli not to try to change the peoples of the world, but rather to live with Documentary Center at the Fondazione Banca del Monte di them and learn their values, motivations, and tribulations. (While Lucca (Piazza San Martino, 7). some of the Fratelli in Latin America chose to be politically

Last month, the Argentine director Iair Kon presented his active, others did not.)documentary La fraternità del deserto at the Foundation in The film ends movingly, with a long list describing the fate of Lucca. This film, much of it narrated by the brotherhood Paoli’s fellow priests and activists, many of them killed or exiled themselves (Fra’ Arturo with Julio Saquero, Patricio Rice, Mario during the Argentine dictatorship. Arturo Paoli’s return to Lucca Grippo, Enrique de Solan, Miquicho Sevilla and others), is set in during his final years gives an extremely powerful message, Lucca, Paris, Cordoba, and La Rioja (Argentina). Speaking at the especially because he continued to work and to serve until his screening, along with the film's director, was Professor Massimo death (30 November 2015).De Giuseppe, author of L'altra America: I cattolici italiani e l’America Latina (Morcelliana, 2017). He discussed the 1976 – by Norma Jean Bishopassassination of Archbishop Romero as a key event for Catholics in Latin America.

The film begins with a very young Arturo in the desert, talking with local people (the Mapuche) inside their huts, where they took refuge during the Latin American dictatorship. The Mapuche explained to Arturo that they were forced to live in squalor on approximately 800 acres of desert, while the multinational Benetton held thousands of acres of their ancestral land. As we see in this film, the multinationals at this time are in fact more powerful than nation-States.

Fra’ Paoli soon decided to follow the example of the Frenchman Charles De Foucauld (1858-1916), who founded a brotherhood (the Piccoli Fratelli) based on distancing oneself from the comforts of the “modern” world and sharing the life of the poor. De Foucauld lived with the Tuareg people in the Sahara desert; he shared

The Brotherhood of the DesertFra’ Arturo Paoli's Years Outside of Italy


� Young Curators Photolux Contest Palazzo Ducale (A)hotolux Festival, this year 2017 and Intarget Photolux Award � Josef Koudelka, Vestiges, an 18-minute between 18 November and 10 2017 in collaboration with Neapolis.Art film produced by Magnum PhotosDecember, is dedicated to a theme and supported by Canon Italia. In �PP I-?MIGRAZIONI, Complex Multi-and a symbolic place: the solidarity with the Italian earthquake media Exhibition, in collaboration with Mediterranean, the Sea and the peoples victims. the Fondazione Banca del Monte di surrounding it. Photolux is a huge

Lucca international event offering 24 exhibitions, COLLATERAL EVENTS:� Prix Pictet 2017, winner Richard Mosse9 workshops, 15 portfolio reviewers, and

Real Collegio (L)18 talks. For lovers of photography and Villa Bottini (F)

photojournalism, these 23 days are an EXPOLUX, an exposition space dedicated � Albert Watson, Maroc, Curated by

ecstatic experience. Here is an overview to editors, printers, professionals, and Enrico Stefanelli, A Scotsman's view of

(letters after the locations refer to the map): photography schools, 25/26 NovemberMorocco.

� Bernard Plossu, L'Heure Immobile. Palazzo Tucci, Via Cesare Battisti 13 (H) Teatro del Giglio (R)Métaphysique Méditérranéenne Photographs of historic homes (free An evening with photographer Pino Ninfa

� Nick Hannes, Mediterranean. The admission). In collaboration with ADSI and pianist Danilo Rea, 7 DecemberContinuity of Man(Association of Historic Italian Homes).

Leica Talks� Il Mediterraneo Tutt'Intorno, by

�Santa Caterina Church (E) La Guerra, Una storia Sicilianacook_inc., a gastronomic view� Tra Memoria e Modernità: La fotografia Leila Alaoui, Franco-Moroccan

contemporanea Israelianaphotographer focusing on the � Migrazionithemes of identities and cultural � Maledetti Fotografi mixtures, was killed in Burkina

Faso while working for Amnesty WorkshopsInternational. � Lars Boering� Magdalena HerraraEx Cavallerizza (I)�� Stuart FranklinShai Kremer, World Trade � Franco Fontana & Paolo VerzoneCenter: Concrete Abstract�� Laura Tori Petrillo & Lorenzo ColloretaEleonora Olivetti, color photo-

graphs of peoples, places and Portfolio viewings by international countries, re-composed accord-photographers, photo editors, curators, and ing to personal and bizarre envi-teachers. The two best portfolios will be ronmental patterns and applied able to participate in a residency in Corsica to antique engravings

Palazzo Guinigi (C) at the Centre Mediteranneen de la � Francesco Fossa, Libya, The Captain

Paolo Verzone, Cadetti, curated by Enrico photographie di Bastia and a new and Me (on the tracks of The English

Stefanelli, winner of the World Press Photo programme of international residencies in Patient), photos taken between 1933 and

2015 in the section “Portraits” Lithuania, France and Poland.1935 � Marie Hudelot, Heritage-Natif- Dei Servi Church (D) Tickets: full price € 20, reduced price €17,

Devotion Leica Oskar Barnack Award 2017, to single location €8. Reductions for groups of � Polixeni Papapetrou, Between Worlds, Norwegian Terje Abusdal (under 25 award, 10, students under 25, members of FIAF,

contaminations of different worlds, Ukrainian Sergey Melnitchenko) Touring Club Italia, FAI, ADSI. allegorical representations, illusory and

San Cristoforo Church (G) Guided tours (of the exhibitions shown at imagined worlds, mythology, arche-Palazzo Ducale, San Cristoforo Church, World Press Photo 2017, 16th edition, for types, theatreand Palazzo della Fondazione Banca del Turkish photographer Burhan Ozbilici.� Rania Werda, A choreography of semi-Monte di Lucca): Saturdays at 4pm, hidden faces of womenSundays at 11am and 4pm, 8 December � Various LocationsPhotoboox Award 2017, in collaboration

� 11am and 4pm.Photolux Award 2017, International with the magazine EyesOpen!, to prize dedicating to emergent photogra-Mayumi Suzuki for his draft book The

Photographs & descriptions of exhibits can phy. The Museums and magazines Restoration Will, to be presented 25 be downloaded from www.studioesseci.net involved in this edition are: Huis November (“eventi in preparazione”). Marseille (Amsterdam), Galleria Civica

Palazzo della Fondazione Banca del di Modena, Musée de l 'Elysée Photolux partners: Fondazione Cassa di Monte di Lucca (B) (Lausanne), Museum Folkwang (Essen), Risparmio di Lucca, The City and Province of Jacques-Henri Lartigue, Diary of a The Museum of Photography (Israel), Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di LuccaCentury, 135 photographs in this Thessaloniki Museum of Photography,

www.photoluxfestival.it retrospective Polka Magazine.


© Josef Koudelka / Magnum Photos, Cape Sounion, Temple of Poseidon, Greece, 2003

MediterraneoA World of Photographyin the Town of Lucca

or the contemporary travel- For the Anglican travellers, ler, it might seem unlikely 'superstitious' Catholic practices that the sunny Italian south included Baroque architecture whose FF capricious forms were thought to might inspire horror and

darkness. It did. It might also sound reflect the moral decadence of the improbable that beautiful Tuscany Roman Church; therefore, the duality itself could be the setting of gloomy between high culture and superstition Gothic stories. It was. was best exemplified by Baroque

In the eighteenth and nineteenth churches. All over Italy, eerie reli-centuries, many English tourists came quaries, catacombs, and labyrinthine to Italy, attracted by its cultural heri- architecture were the perfect setting tage. The ancient Roman civilization for terrifying situations and an incred-and Renaissance grandeur inspired ible source of inspiration for horror associations with the expanding novels.British Empire. At the same time, Coming back to Tuscany, it is no though, British travellers noticed secret that the most famous (or Italy’s contemporary poverty and ser- infamous) tower of Pisa in the past vitude to the Pope. The English were was not the leaning tower but the sure that Britain would never undergo Torre Muda, or 'tower of famine' (now such a decline, which they attributed part of the Palazzo dell'Orologio in to Italy's lack of political freedom and Piazza dei Cavalieri). Count Ugolino to its Catholicism. Although the clas- della Gherardesca starved to death in sical ruins were familiar, contempo- the tower where he had been rary culture was alien. As a result, imprisoned with his children and English tourists and writers of travel- grandchildren in 1288. The unlikely ogues and fiction held onto Italy's past story goes that he ate his progeny out and discarded its present. In a sense, of starvation (recent scientific studies this was a kind of cultural usurpation. Coming in contact with have demonstrated that he was the first to die). It is not surprising, Italy’s past glory, through its ruins and art, meant appropriating it therefore, that according to many, Pisa was the perfect setting for and having authority over it. As for the present inhabitants, for some of the scenes of well-known Gothic novels, such as The

many English visitors they just did not exist. This attitude contin- Mysteries of Udolpho (1794) by Ann Radcliffe, and St Leon ued up to the early twentieth century. E. M. Forster's A Room with (1799) by William Godwin. The two writers had never been to a View (1907), set in Florence, returned to public attention thanks Pisa but could draw inspiration from a great quantity of writings to James Ivory’s famous film version. In this story, Italy is like a depicting its picturesque atmosphere. Their descriptions of the museum, or a nice backdrop to an place, though, were rather vague. entirely English story made up of Horace Walpole, instead, had visited English travellers. The locals, includ- Pisa, but his experience did not help ing the accidental protagonists of a to add realism to the descriptions of passionate murder in Piazza della the city in Maddalena: or the Fate of

Signoria, are virtually removed from the Florentines. The story is set at the the scene. end of the fifteenth century in a Pisa

In some way, this duality in the in ruins because of the conflict with approach to Italy parallels the origin Florence, but the rivalry does not of the English Gothic novel. Inspired, prevent “little love affairs between at home, by revolutionary fears and the youths of the two cities”. Meali the uncontrollable changes and social Lanfranchi, from Pisa, asks a rich inequities brought about by the Florentine merchant for the hand of Industrial Revolution, it found a his daughter Maddalena, who is in perfect setting in Italy. Horace love with a minstrel called Borgiano. Walpole's The Castle of Otranto If you think of Romeo and Juliet, you (1764) wasn't just the first example of can figure out the outcome. a Gothic novel; it was also the first of According to this Italian legend, a long series to be set in Italy. The which the narrator heard near Pisa, Italian south, in particular, was seen the bodies of the two unfortunate as a wild exotic place where the great- lovers are buried near the leaning ness of the past had been wiped away tower.by backwardness, superstition, uncontrolled passions, corruption, – by Chiara Calabrese

bandits, and of course Catholicism and despotism.

An English Room with an Italian View, and a little bit of horror

1. Oxford 2008 edition of The Mysteries of Udolpho2. Broadview Press edition of St. Leon2006


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l Desco Sapori & Saperi is back again this year at the Real Collegio (ex-Royal College) behind San Frediano Church. This is always a deliciously fun event. We have four weekends to enjoy the sumptuous products of our local area farmers, displayed in joyous and friendly fashion. In the wine I rooms, pay for a glass and enjoy the tastings, sipping while tasting olive oil on bits of bread, as well as

cheeses, olives, salami, jams…. Yum! And fill your Christmas baskets, to the personal taste of each person you wish to surprise with goodies!

The dates are 18 to 19 and 25 to 26 November, 2 to 3 December and 8/9/10 December, and the hours from 10 am to 8 pm (continuous). Single admission is only 3 euros, 8 euros to enter four times, or 15 euros to

enter as often as you like. Of course there are free admissions (under 12, disabled with accompanying person, official tourist guides, or from 7 pm to closing time), as well as family and group discounts.

See the back page of this magazine for more inspiration.

The DescoTastes & Talents


Ma

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General markets Books & prints Arts & CraftsLucca, Piazza Cittadella 6-7 SeptemberLucca, Piazzale Don Baroni (River) Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone DailyLucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsAntiquesLucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to SaturdayCastelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthLucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Sant’ Anna special all day Market & Fair 8 Oct.Pieve Fosciana last SundayAltopascio 2nd SundayB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.Plants and flowers

Montecarlo 2nd SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings

Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m.Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday

Pietrasanta 1st SundayS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Markets in Florence (the biggest)Pietrasanta Thurs a.m. Barga 2nd Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday closed SundaysTonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Piazza dei Ciompi

Pescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND

fold-

out events calendarGRAPEVINE

November 2017

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine November 2017

SUBSCRIBE TO GRAPEVINE

To subscribe please fill in the form below and send it to Grapevine Editions, Via Guinigi 22, 55100 Lucca (IT). Payment by credit card can be made by phone (0583 909012 or 333 8617962), fax 0583 164 1254 or e-mail ([email protected]).

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photos by Carol Tomlinson

Porcari

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Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

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Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

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San Rossore Park

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Abetone

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

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Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

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Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also

AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584

757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 20.

della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival

(www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:

photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it

D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio, Artisti e Artisti Association.T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it

Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it O. Ponte a MorianoT3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S.

D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 Barga: Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767.

450278.P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi

E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 Lungarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle

467205.Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it. T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa.

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

490530, [email protected], Prato:dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.

www.museocattedrale.lucca.it U. Palazzo Pretorio. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.

G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.palazzopretorio.prato.itP4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.

H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.

H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V.

I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.Florence:

I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116.www.unannodarte.it

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.itYY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

10am to 5pm www.domusromana.itForte dei Marmi: Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it

KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13.280292, www.villabertelli.it Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm www.guccimuseo.com

to midnight.

R. Pasquinelli

19pm, Porcari, SPAM!, Via Don Minzoni 34. Wednesday evenings until 13 December. Sguardi Oltre I Confini, La Danza Italiana che Guarda l’Europa. In collaboration with Barga Jazz. Tel. 342 0591932, [email protected]

6

209.15pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Contemporary Shakespeare Festival by Next Artists. Porpora, contemporary dance. www.festivalshakespeare.it

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86pm, Lucca, Lucca Libri, Viale R. Margherita 113. Anita Azzi & Renzo Cresti for Cluster present the contemporary music collection of EMA Vinci Records.

1413 15

7 6pm, Lucca, Lucca Libri, Viale R. Margherita 113. Renzo Cresti for Cluster presents the double CD by Antonello Cresti entitled Solchi sperimentali, the movie.(Cluster Music Festival, 7 to 19 Nov.)

55pm, Spicchio (Lamporecchio), Villa Rospigliosi. Orchestra Leonore, project Floema to create a musical ecosystem. Free entrance. Fondazione Pistoiese Promusica. www.fondazionepromusica.it, [email protected]

125pm, Lucca, San Giuseppe Oratorio, next to the Duomo. Moto Contrario Ensemble (sax, trombone, viola, piano) perform music by Cluster composers Alessandro Polito & Antonio Agostini, also K. Penderecki, Colazzo, Quintero, Scelsi, Longo.5.30pm, Diecimo, Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta. Concert by Tony Capula (clarinet) & Giacomo Brunini (guitar, music by Kuffner & Astor Piazzolla, for the M. Salotti Scuola Civica di Musica.

Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Il Trovatore. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

194pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. La Fanciulla del West. www.teatrodelgiglio.it, tel. 0583 466320.9pm, Lucca, Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church. Il Baluardo Vocal Group directed by Elio Antichi, Manuel Del Ghingaro at keyboard close theCluster Music Festival. 5.30pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Town Library. M. Salotti Scuola Civica di Musica presents Etymos Ensemble. [email protected], Pistoia, Corso Gramsci 127, Teatro Manzoni. Shakespeare’s Richard II (tr. Alessandro Serpieri, riduzione Peter Stein). tel. 0573 991609 - 27112 (4pm to 7pm), www.teatridipistoia.it

26Lucca, Santa Cecilia Chapel, concert for Santa Cecilia by the Polifonica Lucchese. 4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Zeller, Il Padre (prose theatre).9pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Incanto sotto il Mare, play by Patrizia Bini & Stefano Benni.5.30pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Library of San Francesco Convent. Giuseppe Cecchin (cello) & Dario Atzori (guitar), classical music concert presented by M. Salotti Scuola Civica di Musica.

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Music & TheatreNovember 2017

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239.15pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Contemporary Shakespeare Festival. Much Ado about Nothing, with modern dance & music. www.festivalshakespeare.it

24 9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Zeller, Il Padre (prose theatre).

25 9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Zeller, Il Padre.9.15pm, Porcari, Auditorium Vincenzo da Massa Carrara. Manon Lescaut in concert. Circolo A. Catalani. Free reservation, 347 9951581.7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. Made in Italy SalisSolo, Piano & accordion concert by Antonello Salis. 9.15pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Contemporary Shakespeare Festival. Taming of the Shrew in English, with homage to George Michael. www.festivalshakespeare.it

167pm, Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium, Piazza San Martino 7. Renzo Cresti presents the cd 10 Luoghi Malsani, by composer Luigi Esposito. Piano duets inspired by Dante (Circolo Malebolge).9pm, Lucca, same location. Stefano Agostini flute, Miriam Sadun violin, Silvano Mazzoni guitar, performing pieces by Cluster composers Andrea Gerratana & Saverio Rapezzi & by Burkhard, Buffetti, Boutros & Espere.

96pm, Lucca, Auditorium Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza San Martino 7. Kuku Trio from Firenze present their new CD, in the context of Cluster Music Festival.

107.30pm, Lucca, Fuoricentro Spazio Musica & Danza, Via Lorenzo Nottolini 43, tel. 0583 580342. Cluster presents new CD by pianist Ilaria Baldaccini, entitled Intorno a Firenze nel Secondo Novecento with music by Prosperi, Luporini, Bonamici, Zangelmi.Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Il Trovatore. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

179pm, Pistoia, Corso Gramsci 127, Teatro Manzoni. Richard II (tr. Alessandro Serpieri, riduzione Peter Stein). tel. 0573 991609 - 27112 (4pm to 7pm), www.teatridipistoia.it

113pm, Lucca, San Giuseppe Oratorio, next to the Duomo. Renzo Cresti of Cluster interviews Alessandro Solbiati. 5.30pm, Lucca, San Giuseppe Oratorio. Alfonso Alberti performs 16 interludes for piano by Solbiati. Organized by Cluster.Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Concert inaugurating the academic year.

Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Il Trovatore.

2

9pm, Lucca, San Francesco Auditorium. Star Wars concert on the occasion of Lucca Comics & Games. Entrance is for Comics & Games ticket holders.

Friday Saturday Thu

39.15pm, Pistoia, Aula Magna of the Seminario Vescovile. Orchestra Leonore, project Floema to create a musical ecosystem. Free entrance. Fondazione Pistoiese Promusica. www.fondazionepromusica.it, [email protected]

4

18 9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. La Fanciulla del West, www.teatrodelgiglio.it, tel. 0583 466320.9pm, Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte Auditorium. Dott. Nitamo Montecucco presents Cervello - Musica - Psicosomatica, discussion with experiential listening component.7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno. Performance concluding the Workshop on choral performance by F. Berta & A. M. Garcia. Tel 0583 971125.

9pm, Pistoia, Corso Gramsci 127, Teatro Manzoni. Richard II (tr. Alessandro Serpieri, riduzione Peter Stein). tel. 0573 991609 - 27112 (4pm to 7pm), www.teatridipistoia.it

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

Puccinielasualucca for its winter season (1 November to 31 March)

offers concerts on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdaysat the Oratorio of San Giuseppe at 7pm.

Tickets are sold at the [email protected]

or call 340 8106042

Coming Up/Ongoing Miss Marple, Giochi di Prestigio by Agatha Christie. 27 March special project, Vangelo Secondo Lorenzo by Leo Muscato.

Lucca Puccini Days. Featuring Puccini’s relationship with the Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. 3 Dec. 5.30pm Due Giorni al Plaza Americas. 2 Dec., Piccolo Come le Stelle with/by Elisabetta (Neil Simon). 14 Dec. 9pm Il Prigioniere della Seconda Strada Salvatori. Station Tango, 3 Dec. at San Francesco Church. (Neil Simon).Cantiere Opera Puccini, project with Francesco Micheli & Elio delle Montecarlo holiday concerts: Gospel concert by chorus Storie Tese, with Simone Soldati at the piano. 7 Dec. 9pm, pianist D’Altrocanto, 10/17 Dec. Sala Ex-Chiesa Misericordia. 1 & 6 Jan. Danilo Rea, singer Michela Lombardi, photos by Pino Ninfa (in 5.30pm, Christmas carols by G. Puccini Philharmonica di collaboration with Photolux), a mix of Puccini & jazz. 13 Dec. 9pm, La Montecarlo, directed by Gabriele Micheli. tel. 0583 229725.Fanciulla concert reserved for ACI members. Pistoia, Teatro Manzoni, 9pm 9 December. Orchestra Leonore, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. 19 & 21 Jan. La Wally, 10 & 11 Feb. Iris, 17 director Roland Boer & Coro Ars Cantica. Handel’s Messiah. tel. March Pia de’ Tolomei. Prose season: 15/16/17 Dec. Pinocchio 0573 974249, www.fondazionepromusica.itby Teatro del Carretto. 26/27/28 Jan., Vetri Rotti by Arthur Miller. Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Il Cirello 3 Dec., Iris 13-14 Jan., La Fanciulla del 16/17/18 Feb. Father and Son by Michele Serra. 2/3/4 March, Il West 3-4 Feb., L’Italiana in Algeri 10-11 March. See page 28 of Sindaco del Rione Sanità by Eduardo De Filippo. 23/24/25 March October Grapevine.

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Exhibitions, November 2017

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

6

13 14

7 5 LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY: LAST DAY:

Viareggio,

Lucca,

Centro Matteucci per l’Arte Moderna. Il Secolo Breve. Tessere di ‘900. 3.30pm to 7.30pm Tues. to Fri., Sat/Sun 10am to 1pm, 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Closed Mondays. centromatteucciartemoderna.it

Casermetta San Martino. Le stanze del sogno, videos & costumes from Teatro del Carretto. Pinocchio, the Iliad, Shakespeare....Tuesday to Sundays 10am to 6pm.

Lucca,Serravezza,

Chiesa Dei Legnaioli. Exhibit by Michaela Kasparova & Maria Guidi. Open 10am to 7.30pm daily.Palazzo Mediceo. Plinio Nomellini – From Divisionism to Symbolism, Towards the

Freedom of Color. Tues. to Sat. 3pm to 8pm, Sundays & holidays 10.30am to 8pm. Tel. 0584 757443, terremedicee.it

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TuesMon Sunday

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Casermetta San Frediano. ArTown, City of Lucca Art Collection. Curated by ArteinLucca. 4pm to 7pm daily.

Ragghianti Foundation, Via San Micheletto 3. Mario Nigro, The Spaces of Colour. Retrospective on the centenary of the artist’s birth. Curators Paolo Bolpagni & Francesca Pola. Until 7 January 2018. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm.

Pisa,

Pistoia,

Pistoia,

Pistoia,

Vorno,

Florence

,

Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Escher (1898-1972), Beyond the Possible. Mondays to Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday/Sunday/holidays 10am to 10pm. Until 28 January 2017. www.mostraescherpisa.it, www.palazzoblu.it

Palazzo del Tau. Mirò & Marino, The Colors of the Mediterranean. Until 7 Jan. 2018.

Palazzo Sozzifanti, Via de’Rossi 7. La Rivelazione del Tibet, Ippolito Desideri & Italian scientific exploration in the lands closest to the sky. Until 10 Dec. Tuesdays to Fridays 3pm to 7pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 6pm. www.fondazionecrpt.it

Palazzo Fabroni. Passioni Visive by sculptor Marino Marini. Until 7 Jan. 2018. The exhibit continues at Peggy Guggenheim Museum (Venice), 27 Jan. to 1

Via del Vorno 67, Tenuta dello Scompiglio. May 2018.Video Installations by Cecilia Bertoni, round midnight

Palazzo Strozzi. The Cinquecento in Florence. From Michelangelo & / ritratti, & Cecilia Bertoni with Claire Guerrier & Carl Pontormo to Giambologna, a spectacular exhibition devoted to the art of the 16th G. Beukman, Camera #4 – Il Naufragio. Installation century in Florence showcasing over 70 works of art by such artists as Michelangelo, can only be viewed one visitor at a time. Reservation is Bronzino, Giorgio Vasari, Rosso Fiorentino, Pontormo, Santi di Tito, Giambologna kindly requested. Until 17 Dec. 2017.

Gia

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12LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Calcinaia (Pisa),

LuCCA Museum Underground, Via della Fratta 36. Tulku. Mystic Reicarnations of Tibet, by Giampietro Mattalin & Vicky Sevignani. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm.

Torre delle Upezzinghi, Via Vittorio Emanuele. Painters Annamaria Buonamici & Lisandro Rota & others. Daily 5.30pm to 7.30pm. Curated by Mercurio Gallery.

Lucca, Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. A l’imparfait de l’objectif, photography by Robert Doisneau. See article pag. 10 in August Grapevine.

19OPENING: Lucca, Via del Fosso 153, Fabrizio Barsotti Art Studio. Atlas over Arteries, photography exhibit by Riccardo Bandiera. Until 3 December, 5pm to 7.30pm.

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To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendarExhibitions,

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

15 16Lucca,

LAST DAY: Via del Battistero 38, Olio su Tavola Gallery. Ri-sintonizzarsi by Giorgio Brogi.

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18Pistoia,

LAST DAY:

OPENING:

Villa Stonorov, Via Felceti 11. Jorio Vivarelli & Great Italian sculptors of his time. Between the park & studio of Vivarelli. Tel 0573 477423, fondazionevivarelli.it

Lucca, various locales. Photolux Festival: Mediterraneo. See hours on page 18. Until 10 Dec. 2017. www.photoluxfestival.it

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11

3 4

Viareggio, OPENING: Villa Argentina, corner Via Fratti/Via Vespucci. Painter Isabella Staino, Un Mondo Completo. Opening at 5.30pm with Ariano Gaudio reading Lighea by Lampedusa, with Chiara Cavalli at the violin. Open Tues to Sunday 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 6.30pm. Until 10 December. www.luccaterre.it

Saturday Thu Friday

Rome,

Florence,

Parma,

Vicenza,

Udine,

Reggio Emilia, Faenza,

Padova,

Siena,

Brescia,

and Bartolomeo Ammannati. Daily 10am to 8pm, Thursdays 10am to Scuderie del Quirinale. Picasso. Between Cubism & Classicism: 1915-1925. Until 21 January 2018. 11pm. Until 21 January 2018. www.palazzostrozzi.org

Santa Maria della Scala, Piazza Duomo 1. 14th century painter Ambrogio Lorenzetti. Tickets € 9. Closed Tuesdays. Tel. 0577 286300, Galleria degli Uffizi, Aula Magliabechiana. The Japanese santamariadellascala.com Until 21 January 2018.Renaissance, nature in the screen paintings of the 15th to 17th

Fondazione Magnini-Rocca, Mamiano di Traversetolo. Publicity, centuries. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 6pm, €12.50. Until 7 The Birth of Modern Communication 1890-1957. Until 10 December January. Tel 055 294883. www.gallerieuffizimostre.it2017. www.magnanirocca.it

Basilica Palladiana. Van Gogh, Tra il grano e il cielo (between the wheat & the sky). 7 October 2017 to 8 April 2018.

Santa Giulia Museum, Via Musei 81/b. Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Castello di Udine. L’offensiva di carta. La Grande Guerra

Beat Generation. Until 14 January 2018.(1914-1918) illustrata, from Luxardo collection to contemporary cartoons. Until 7 Jan. 2018.

Palazzo Magnani. Kandinsky to Cage: Music & International Ceramics Museum, Via Spirituality in Art. Curator Martina Mazzotta. 11 Nov. 2017 to 25 Baccarini 19. Achille Calzi (1873-1919), Feb. 2018.

Between Symbolism & Liberty. 0546 Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Galileo Revolution: artist, 697311. 5 November 2017 to 18 February

poet, man of letters, scientist. www.fondazionecariparo.it 18 Nov. 2018.2017 to 18 March 2018.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

November 2017

In Montecarlo, Piazza Carmignani, in

collaboration with B&B Antica Dimora

Patrizia, artist Roberto Pasquinelli offers a

course in oil painting. (8 sessions, 3 hours

each). For more information please write

to: [email protected]

Wed

Pic

asso

Sta

ino

Nick Hannes, Croatia

30Castelnuovo di

Garfagnana,LAST DAY:

Duomo. The Black Christ 1977 - 2017. Photographic exhibit showing the 1977 fire, restoration & return to the church of the black Christ.


HOLIDAYS, TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS

CINEMA

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

CHILDREN

MEET-UP GROUPS

Luccalele, convivial group for ukelele fans at Undici Undici, Piazza Antelminelli. Wednesdays beginning 5.30pm. Contact

THROUGHOUT ITALY Paolo at 380 4358318 or email [email protected]

All Saints Day (Ognissanti) on November 1st is a sacred na- Lucca, Puccini Museum Bookstore, Piazza Cittadella. Io Gioco tional holiday when Italians remember their loved ones. con Giacomo. Sundays 3pm, 12 Nov., 10 Dec., 14Jan., 4 Feb., Chrysanthemums are purchased for the graves. November 11 Mar. Reserve www.puccinimuseum.org or tel. 0583 584028.2nd is the Day of the Dead.

Lucca, Fondazione Ragghianti, Arte Gioco. Free children’s workshops in contemporary art, 7 sessions 2017-2018. Tel. 0583 467205. www.fondazioneragghianti.it

In Lucca unfortunately we can’t generally tell you in what lan-guage a film will be shown. On the other hand, the prices are very modest. So go, enjoy some popcorn & do your language skills a favor! Oct. 31 to 5 November:Cinema Moderno ( 0583 53484), Mazinga Z - Infinity (anima-tion). Cinema Astra (0583 496480), Thor: Ragnarok (fantasy ad-venture) Cinema Centrale (0583 55405), Vittoria & Abdul with Judi Dench & Ali Fazal. www.luccacinema.it

Star Wars: Gli ultimi Jedi, beginning 13 December.

Pisa, Palazzo Blu Auditorium, conferences (5pm). Guerra, rivoluzione, sogni di pace. 16 Nov., Arturo Marzano La Dichiarazione Balfour. Please arrive 30 minutes before the lec-ture. Tel. 050 2204650, [email protected]

Pisa, New York English Academy, Via S. Paolo 11. Poetry & Aperitivo. William Blake with Prof. Shemtov. 10 Nov, 15 Dec. Reserve at 346 212 8055. www.newyorkenglishacademy.com

Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno. 13 to 18 Nov. Workshop on choral performance by Filippo Berta & Angel Moya Garcia. Tel 0583 971125.

Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia: 4 Nov. 3.30pm, Book presentation of Musica Nera (TEA Edizioni) with author Leonardo Gori. Followed on 8/9/10/15/17/18/22/23/24/30 Nov. & 9/16/28 Dec.

Lucca, Casa del Boia, Via dei Bacchettoni 8. 17/18/19 Nov. by other musical & theatrical events . 10am to 7pm. Il Piccolo Regno di Babbo Natale (Santa 10/17/24 Nov. 6pm, lessons/shows of art history.Land). Tel. 328 1620063 7/14/27 Dec. 6pm, films.

3 to 5 Nov., display on technological evolution of cinema.22 to 26 December, cinema posters.Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Courses in theatre, opera & English

for children 4 to 15 years old at Teatro San Girolamo or Auditorium San Romano. Giocoteatro, with Shakespeare for age 18+. October to April. www.teatrodelgiglio.it

Book Club meetings at Da Francesco Restaurant (near the Montecarlo, Santa’s Village & Christmas market. train station), last Wednesday of each month at 8pm. December/January.

Italian language reading group at Lucca Sapiens Bookstore Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 11 Nov. 3pm to 4.30pm. (Libreria), Via Borgo Giannotti 247. Every first Thursday of the Paper into art laboratory for children 6 to 10 years old. 2 Dec. month at 9pm. Members receive 10% on the month’s book 3.30pm reading for children. selection. 2 Nov., L’Altro Figlio by Sharon Guskin. Tel. 0583

341898 or 388 1628314, [email protected], Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno. 5 Nov. 3.30pm & 5pm. Teatro Ragazzi: Un eroe sul sofà (recommended for 4 to Grapevine conversation group at Cantine Bernardini (Piazza 10 years old). Tel 0583 971125. 19 Nov. 3.30pm & 5pm. Tre del Suffragio) Thursdays at 8.15pm. Come for a drink or dinner,

English & Italian conversation. No meeting on 2 November.porcellini (recommended for 6 to 10 years old). 3 Dec. 5pm. Moi qui marche (7 to 13 years old).

English Mondays 4pm to 6pm conversation group, at Undici Undici, Piazza Antelminelli, Lucca. Free as long as we buy a Marina di Pietrasanta, La Versiliana park & villa. Il Mondo di drink or food. Contacts: Diletta, [email protected], Dee, Babbo Natale. 24 Nov. to 1 Jan. Fri/Sat/Sun 10am to 6.30pm. [email protected], FB “English Mondays”.€ 10. www.ilmondodibabbonatale.it

Grapevine’s annual Thanksgiving lunch. 23 November, at La Cantina di Carignano with Chef Paolo Monti (S. Alessio, Lucca). See details on page 2. Reserve at 333 8617962 or [email protected]

LUCCA AND SURROUNDING TOWNS

Lucca Comics & Games. Displays from 14 Oct. to 5 Nov, Festival 1 to 5 Nov. Wed/Thur/Fri 9am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 9am to 8pm. See article page 10. www.luccacomicsandgames.com

Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza San Lucca, Real Collegio. Desco Sapori & Saperi, a huge annual Martino 7. Encounters with Excellence, conferences in Italian. food exhibition. 18/19, 25/26 Nov., 2/3, 8/9/10 Dec. Admission is 14/22 Nov., 6/7 Dec. See page 6 for more information.€ 3 per day (€ 2 for under 18 & over 65), but there are various dis-counts & plenty of food & drink. See pages 10 & 28. Lucca, San Francesco Auditorium. Fondazione Cassa di

Risparmio di Lucca sponsors Conversations in San Lucca, Palazzo Ducale. 18 Nov. to 8 Dec., World Press Francesco. 24 Nov. 9pm, Il Gattopardo, a personal re-Photography Exhibit. Hours: 3pm to 7.30 pm weekdays, 10am reading by Alessandro Baricco. Tickets are free from Teatro to 7.30pm weekends. Exception: Palazzo Ducale, Cortile del Giglio box office, 22/23/24 Nov. 10.30am to 1pm, 4 to 7pm.

Lucca, Cinema Centrale. Carrara 1. Daily 10am to 7.30pm. Tickets cost €20 (€17 re-duced), or €8 for single locations. Guided tours are available for Lucca, Centro Chiavi d’Oro voluntary association, Via delle the Palazzo Ducale, San Cristoforo Church & Palazzo of the Chiavi d’Oro 6. Tel/fax 0583 48097, [email protected]

Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico (and many other places), Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca. Expolux at Real Open daily except Saturdays from 3.30 to 6.30pm, to welcome La Befana arrives 6 Jan. in the afternoon, sometimes on a cart & Collegio, 25/26 Nov., for editors, printers, photography schools, the elderly, adults & young people for an afternoon together with accompanied by singers. Traditional Epiphany celebration.professionals. See article page 8. www.photoluxfestival.it friends. On Thursdays at 3.30pm there are lectures & book re-

views. Coming up on 14 Dec., Christmas Lunch.Lucca,Monte San Quirico, Foro Boario. 25/26 Nov. Mercanti Day of Memory (for the Shoah) 27 Jany. Commemorative events.per caso. Large flea market held 3-4 times per year. Lucca, Lucca Libri, Viale R. Margherita 113. 15 Nov. 6pm, www.mercantipercaso.com Renzo Cresti presents second edition of his book about music San Biagio Festival, Pietrasanta. First weekend of February.

from the 1900s to the present, Ragioni & Sentimenti. Traditional blessing of the throat at the Duomo, with a large Massa Carrara. Festival dell’Oriente (Asian Festival) . 1/4/5 street market & fair throughout town. Info: 0584 795234, 0584 November. 10.30am to 10.30pm. 283284.

Palio of Buti (on the road to Pontedera), 21-22 January. Traditional small town horse race.

Montecarlo, Istituto Pelligrini Carmignani. New Wine & Oil Festival. 4-5, 11-12 Nov.

Barga Chestnut Fair, 4 to 5 Nov. Food competitions for chestnut-related dishes.

Steam train (Asciano-Monte Antico line) in the Crete Senese, 13 & 20 November. From Siena & Grosseto to San Giovanni d’Asso for the white truffle festival & museum.

Viareggio Carnival 2018, 27 January, 4/11/13/17 February. Fantastic satirical floats parade along the Lungomare & neigh-borhood street parties. www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.comChildren’s carnivals are held in many towns throughout Italy.

Professione Donna, a voyage to discover the multitudinous fe-male universe. Interviews, testimonies, shows, with women who have overcome challenges & obstacles on the path to self-realization, thanks to their force, passion & creativity. (tr. by Grapevine; the conferences are in Italian). Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Teatro Alfieri (Ridotto).17 Nov., Rita Coruzzi, author of books about Matilde di Canossa & Joan of Arc16 Dec., Serena Mazzi, Renaissance historian10 Feb., Entrepreneurs (Sartini, Donati, Bishop, Lemetti, Deiana, Piegaia)24 Feb., Alba Donati/Cinzia Dini, poets17 March, Stefania Adami, photographer23 March, Mary Campbell, volunteer in Africa & Asia14 April, Ilaria Pocai/Progetto Senegal, Silvia Bianchini/Come Te, Stella Radicchi/Il Sogno. Volunteerism5 May, Silvia Venuti, painter/poet26 May, Anita Azzi & Sara Crincoli, artists9 June, Erica Piacenza, fashion16 June, closing with a comedy entitled Trasloco con Sorpresa

Subscribe to: www.turismo.lucca.it for more events & tours.

VILLAGE FESTIVALS(www.turismo.garfagnana.eu)

Grapevine is collaborating with the following event:

Comics Artist Federico Bertolucci

ucca Comics & Games is a cornucopia of events. Among these, in the splendid halls of L the Palazzo Ducale where Elisa

Bonaparte once lived, is a wonderful and diversely multitudinous collection of cartoon art. For a first visit, we chose to focus our attention on the room dedicated to Federico Bertolucci, Viareggino.

Federico began sketching and cartooning as a boy, when he spent afternoons at his father's pizza parlor. Later he attended Liceo Artistico in Lucca and Accademia delle Belle Arti in Carrara. The turning point in Bertolucci's life came when he was chosen for the Disney Academy in Milan, where he studied for nine months.

To mention just a few of his career highlights: the cartoon Love – The Tiger earned him the 2011 Gran Guinigi prize, while Love – The Fox led to a gold medal in the category Best Graphic Novel for the Independent Publisher Book Awards in 2016. The series Love, written by Frédéric Brrémaud, has been nominated three times for the Eisner Awards. Bertolucci’s cover illustrations, children's books, and comics (such as Little Tails and Les petites histoires della Ferme) are humorous and colorful, with a warm, engaging, sometimes ecological orientation.

The exhibition shows approximately one hundred sketches and cartoons, ranging from his Disney experience to cartoons such as Richard Coeur de Lion (for Soleil). Bertolucci is a delightful international artist, and as he says, disegnare … è sempre meglio che lavorare (drawing is always better than working). Let's hope we can all make our pleasure into our employment!


Clues in English have Italian answers and clues in Italian have English answers

ACROSS DOWN

3 The first name of the first king of Italy (8) 1 ______ Morandi (6)7 Similar (6) 2 Il Bart che scrisse Oliver (6)8 Mozart's middle name (6) 3 Donatella ______ (7)9 Pineapple (6) 4 The disciple who doubted (7)10 Gear, rotten (6) 5 Absurd plur. (8)11 Diminutivo di Guglielmo, fattura (4)

6 Professional fee (8)13 Dry, curt (5)

11 Dante loved her (8)15 The saint of an involuntary dance (4)

12 Santo nome di un fiume 17 Il re della giungla (6)canadese (8)18 She was stabbed by Don José;

13 Un nativo di Sparta (7)pugnalata da don José (6)14 Concise, succinct fem. (7)19 Unknown, anonymous (6)15 Scrisse l'Eneide (6)20 Marchio di disonore; mark of infamy (6)

21 ______ Duse (8) 16 ______ and Louise (6)

Cruciword by Helen Askham What’s in

a Name?

October solution

1 2 3 4 5 6

7

8

9

10

11 12

13 14

15 16

17

18

19

20

21

P R A M I L R E A R T UR R N A M E GI T A C A P O P I D O LN B N T R R YC H I M I C O E X I TI A P S D PP A N D A S A S P I R EE N Z E N T

D I A Z S P A N G L EU G U P R H RS C H E R Z O G R O U PE T R N O O AD I S P O S E D E D E N


The Rich Uncle in ItalyInterview with an Italian-American

met Tomas Valenti at a life. Like Da Vinci, and other intel-conversation group called lectuals of the Renaissance period, “English Mondays” in Piazza Tomas was trained in many different IAntelminelli. He handed me fields, without becoming specialized

his business card and I was surprised in one specific sector like most to see the headline “Renaissance people do nowadays. He continued Man”. Under the headline lies a huge by saying that he never wanted a neat list of things Tomas does: carpentry, life, in the sense of staying in one plumbing, photography, and place and doing the same thing every repairing, making and playing day. What he always wanted was a instruments, including mandolins life full of surprises, and I think there and ukuleles. He also experiments is no doubt he has successfully with writing poetry and always has a fulfilled his goal!funny story to share with people, while casually drinking wine in a Tomas keeps surprising me, talking about events in his life. beautiful Lucca square. So, what does Renaissance Man really The very first instrument he learned was the piano, which he mean, and how did Tomas Valenti end up being one? played for eight years, and then he went on constructing his own

Tomas has been in Italy since September. He kindly laughs at my musical instruments as a teenager. So, is music what brought you question of when he is planning to go back home to Georgia, U.S.A. here to Lucca? is my next spontaneous question. Tomas' When I run out of money, he says. He has expression seems to change, from visited many places in Tuscany on this trip, reflective to enthusiastic. He talks about but this is not his first Italian experience. Tuscany and Italy in general with great

Tomas' first adventure in Italy began enthusiasm. He loves the feeling of safety about twenty years ago, when he and his Italian cities evoke for an American adolescent son visited Sicily to see the traveler, and he has only good things to property of his great granduncle, Angelo say about Italians, their cuisine, and their Valenti (1890-1975), an extremely rich man, amazing wine and olive oil that he can find who had been a benefactor for the whole in small local shops in Lucca. He is also region (the Associazione Famiglia Agirina enchanted by the beauty of the Alps and provides solidarity between the north and the mountains around Lucca, in which he south of Italy). With very little information often goes hiking. about Angelo Valenti in their hands, father and Without a doubt, Tomas Valenti's life son started looking for his gravestone in the is full of zest, so I advised him to write a cemetery of his Sicilian hometown. The name book with all those unbelievable stories Valenti seemed to be a common one in the and funny incidents he wants to share with area, but just after they had managed to find it people. I was not at all surprised to hear carved on a gravestone, Tomas realized that that he has already started writing his he and his son were locked in the cemetery! That's me, I always get memoirs, under the title Confessions of a Renaissance Man, and into trouble, he says to me, laughing at his own funny stories. that he will probably be considering it for publication in the States.

My next question had to do with what Tomas Valenti calls himself: Renaissance Man. He gives Leonardo Da Vinci as an example to help me understand the term he uses, referring to his own

– by Maria Tsaousidou– photos from Tomas Valenti

arlo Galgani’s fire has been burning for over 200 years. In fact the blacksmith (fabbro) CCand his predecessors have been

working here since the 1500s, but Carlo may be the last to tend this flame. Young people today prefer cell phones, he tells me, though he still has a demand for the tools that he makes entirely by hand, including the handles that he makes using wood from his fruit trees.

The

This is not a museum, though it could be. The chestnut museum down the road offers exhibits on rural living and traditional skills, so with a bit of imagination this could become an extension. Maybe there is a younger person who would like to learn

old stone building is a fully fitted, from Sig. Galgani? Not in Italy, a local water powered shop a few kilometers from Italian man tells me. Yet there are people in Pescaglia, where Carlo lives. On a mild the hills who appreciate tradition; for autumn afternoon, the sun pleasantly dap- example the shepherd is still a viable ples the walls and peers into the mysterious occupation. Or perhaps someone from shadowy rooms. The windows are always abroad would want to learn these skills? I open so that air and light can penetrate the imagine it might require a special kind of interior, where the walls are blackened by person, with patience and a poetic soul.centuries of soot from the open fires. Carlo’s serene demeanor is a tribute to this – by Norma Jean Bishopway of life, and he pleasantly greets visi- See article The Blacksmith in Pescaglia, tors, happy to share his knowledge. published in March 2007 Grapevine.

The Smithy

1. hammer & anvil

2. blacksmith shop

3. Carlo Galgani, fabbro

4. still life in light & dark

5. forging a hoe

6. a history lesson for the

author

7. Carlo advises Silvano on

an old lock

– photos by Maria Tsaousidou


o much to think about as I done this your health is going to suffer cycle towards the local shops in just trying to roll the flimsy plastic to do my weekly shop. The things onto your hands. The next SSsupermarkets in Italy are challenge, with glove-like bags on

amazing. So many items to tempt you your hands, is to proceed to use an as you stroll the wide aisles in search of ever so thin plastic bag. The next task what you need, well aware of just how is to select the fruit by smell, not much fits on the bike for the ride home, texture, as it is almost impossible to while at the same time you will be feel them with plastic covered hands. dodging meandering tour groups, kids Then you proceed to the scales, hitting and dogs. Not having a car makes it the designated number for the nigh impossible to purchase all those acquired fruit, and out pops one of the tempting wines, beers and liqueurs that sticky pricing tickets you stupidly seem to be cheaper than a can of coke, scoop up with your plastic gloved without smashing them as you cycle hand. Can you picture it? Yep, with me home. the sticky ticket always seems to cling

The larger stores are well to the flimsy gloves, making it almost equipped with everything from the impossible to un-stick from the gloves freshest of produce to copious choices and place flat, face up, onto the of alcohol, and more pasta in one aisle equally flimsy plastic bag! Italians all than you could ever imagine. No seem to do it so perfectly. Not me. displays of the Christmas tarts in Thank goodness the supermarket September, or Easter eggs after manager has enough marketing skills Boxing Day, in Italian stores. It seems to allocate the all-important “on to be about two weeks before the event special for this week” alcoholic that they appear on the allocated beverages next to the fruit. Smart shelving, and once the date has passed, thinking, and I am sure only to calm the leftovers seem to quietly the shoppers' nerves!disappear. On entering my favourite Lucca super- The most fascinating section in

market, I am firstly confronted by the huge all Italian supermarkets has to be the one variety of fresh fruits and vegetables on offer. complete aisle for pasta. This is a sight to In Australia, supermarket shopping was a behold. Not only an aisle, but almost a weekly chore for me. Boring, would be a third of the cold section, is taken up with good word for it. However, here in fresh pasta as well. Then there is an aisle Tuscany the first thing that comes to for all the pasta sauces. So many choices.mind to describe my weekly shop is And of course there are the copious “challenging”. Maybe I should also add varieties of gelato. My, oh my! I am “frustrating”, and then “amusing”. slowly tasting my way through them,

The first frustration, before you most of which have been so delicious. can select the fruit and veggies, is a When they are on special you have to pur-sign that kindly asks you to put on chase at least two packs.

the plastic gloves before you handle the produce. For health reasons of course! It – by Sue Perrydoesn't go on to tell you that once you have – photos by Maria Tsaousidou


Cycling to the Supermarket

n local antique markets now you can see old artefacts for sale and can only wonder which doors these keys for IIinstance once unlocked... This is a

lock from my home. What a piece of work! These traditional skills and the people who

in the wind to dry. Both tablecloths and bedcovers were made, and they were washed because they were smudged with stains from working by candlelight.

Ines had noticed that while her own skin was heavily bronzed loved them are worth hanging onto, by the sun as she worked outside all day, the women in Barga had unlocking memories which are inside white skin, and so she devised a hat for herself to emulate the folk there somewhere.... in the town.

Part of the apparently unchanging She was 18 and out in the fields when the huge earthquake beauty of Tuscany is the beauty of its struck. The ground shuddered and shook; she fell to the ground, incomparable food culture.... This terrified. Che mi succede? Perchè faccio cosi? While Ines article is the first of a series of survived the earthquake, it shook the foundations of many conversations with members of my buildings and destroyed parts of Barga's noble Duomo.Italian community about their families, their memories, and their Graziella's own favourite recipe, from all those made by her favourite foods (from the time of their grandparents), with recipes nonna Isola, is Sformata di Cavolo Nero.… This is easily made for you too to try. nowadays, and is a simple tasty dish which Graziella loved. It was

Graziella Cosimini is a retired professor of Italian who often served at la festa de la padrona ... in this case San Ranieri, studied at the University of Florence. Each year we are very on November 16.privileged to have her talk about local customs, often illustrated

Recipe for Sformato di Cavolo Nerowith the poems of Pascoli. Musicians come to play in our piazza, which is lovingly decked out for the occasion by Maria Rosa and

You'll see the ingredients aren't Roberto, the church custodians. This year Graziella quoted poems precisely weighed, and oven temperatures written by long-ago mountain folk, and told tales from her own are elastic – just experiment. Of course childhood. people did not have weighing scales or We talked in our favorite smart ovens tanti anni fa….cafe in Barga, where Graziella

1. Take the black cabbage off its central lives. She told me that her tough stalks, cut it up and boil it (I mother Ines was one of ten chil-would steam it). dren born in the little mountain

2. When it's cooked, let it sweat in a village of Sommocolonia saucepan with some slices of onion, (about which I wrote an article celery and carrot, herbs of your in December 2016, visible on choice, and a little oil.the Grapevine webpage). Ines

3. Add the eggs (only one or two maybe, spent her life doing the work because people then did not have many to spare, but you can of a contadina: taking the feel free to use more) and parmigiano cheese.cows to pasture and collecting

4. Pour the lot into a shallow baking dish, sprinkle with chestnuts in little aprons breadcrumbs, and cook for 30 minutes…. called grembiule, and in the

winter crocheting exquisite Oh, and p.s., as Graziella said to me, Enjoy!covers by candlelight (not so

good for the eyes, but it was all they had...). These covers These memories, as memories will, unlock our own. And the were then washed in the com- old keys open many doors in our own minds... Thank you so munal washing troughs, and much, Graziella. hung out to dry. Each family jealously guarded their own – by Judith Edwards

original designs, and were vigi- www.judithedwards.co.uk

lant as the white cloths swayed www.cansurviving.com

Altri tempi ... anni fa ...Recipes and remembrances ...


ear friends, we are now in the middle of autumn, and our DDweather center pre-

dicts a November with some rainy days and average tempera-tures. We will see, but mean-while let's get busy, because as always there is plenty to do.

This year, because of the intense summer heat, our plants olives falling on the ground will have flowered and given fruit roll under the nets, and we'll have earlier than usual, so in our to gather them by hand, one by beautiful Tuscan land, with its one. If the slope is steep, it might fascinating hills, we have be necessary to raise the nets' already started gathering the Grape and the Olive, important fruits edges on the lower side, to avoid the olives rolling out. We can use for preparing excellent Wine and Oil, for which we are known stakes, or little hooks attached the nets, in order to obtain a semi-worldwide. hammock effect. Then the falling olives will remain in the nets.

This summer it seemed that the long dry period would harm After arranging the nets, we begin to shake the trees (starting at the the gathering of these fruits. Instead the few rain showers that we lower part and moving up, so that we don't walk on the olives that had in late summer and early autumn have contributed to a good roll downhill). We can do this with an electric vibrating fork harvest of optimal quality. What's more, precisely because of the (scuotitore), which you can buy or rent at a garden center. Or we high temperatures, this year the infamous olive fly (Decus olea) can use little plastic rakes, these too available at the garden didn't show itself much, so many of us haven't treated our trees centers. We connect the rake firmly at the end of a pole or long chemically (or only in a small way), in order to give our oil a better cane, in order to reach the tree-tops. Using the scuotitore, we stick biological quality. the head of the device in the midst of the branches. The device's tip

The wine is already in production, while the olive gathering, rotates lightly, making the olives fall. Or, using the little rakes, we which some already began in October, is still underway. Many comb the branches containing the olives so that they fall into the people, above all those who are doing this for the first time, would net. Obviously, some leaves and little twigs will also fall into the like to know the best moment to gather the olives for a good oil. net, but these will be removed during the next phase.

There are many strategies for the harvest, depending on the At this point, we gather the nets, almost like fishermen, so that quantity of trees, exposition, tools available, etc. the olives are accumulated up in small areas. Before tossing the olives

Let's first talk about the various stages of the olive harvest. into the containers, we try to eliminate most of the twigs or leaves (but Above all, we should prepare the ground under the trees. A few remember, when we go to the olive mill the first phase of the pressing days before the harvest we cut the grass, so that we can move about will be to eliminate leaves, by way of the aspirating machines, so if easily and limit entangling the nets that we will arrange under the some remain in the boxes of olives this is not be a big problem).trees, and not be slowed down in our work and create damage to At this point, we move to another group of trees and repeat the the nets. stages described above. After gathering the olives, we go to the olive

After cutting the grass, we choose a group of trees (four or mill, where we have already made an appointment for the pressing. five) and lay out the nets underneath. Remember, nets higher up We don't let too many days pass between the gathering and the the slope should be placed over nets farther down, otherwise the pressing (generally not more than two or three days).

The question remains: when is the best time to gather the olives? This varies greatly, but in our region usually between late October and late December. This obviously depends on various factors: climate, soil, tree varieties, fertilizing, irrigation systems, etc. Regardless of the date, though, we should refer to the color of the olives. The yield in oil is lower when most of the olives present on our trees have become or are becoming brown.

The olive harvest is a very enjoyable experience and allows us to stay in contact with Mother Nature and to enjoy the gifts She gives us. In this way we can live on the planet that hosts us. Sharing this magnifi-cent experience with friends contributes harmony and serenity to our spirits.

Happy gardening to all!

– by Simone LippiIl Cerchio Verde

Tel. 0583 316713, 335 8354437www.ilcerchioverde.it

Mother Nature’s Olive Oil


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CASTELVECCHIO DI COMPITO, typical country house, already restored, with 4 ARLIANO, re-built rustico divided into 6 bedrooms, spacious enough for a large apartments, with large garden & pool. family. Well cared for & spacious garden, Already serving as a vacation home, sold with garage & another building furnished completely furnished with all accessories. with kitchen & bread oven. € 360,000. Cl F Ready for the next season!! € 590,000. C1 G IPE 187,56 www.remax.it/30811001-830 www.remax,it/30811001-872


Ref. 103:

Ref. 928:

Ref. 187:

Ref. 742:

Wonderfully panoramic apartment 100sqm with large terrace overlooking Barga's cathedral. With ground floor garage/workshops. APE Class G. € 215,0000.

Independent contemporary-style villa 200sqm with 3 baths & several terraces.

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APE Class G. € 350,000.

Pleasing first floor apartment, 96sqm, in a quiet residential area of Barga, with attic room, panoramic balcony, private park, & a bit of land. APE Class D. € 150,000.

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olives & fruit trees, wonderfully panoramic position. APE Class G. € 470,000.

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A short stroll from Lucca’s town center, this spa-cious, well-kept home in Sant'Anna has 12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms & 3 baths), with a garden and patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. €850 ,000 . Contac t Grapevine for referral. (Ref. 1144)(also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com)

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RENTALS

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Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

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Online Property Marketers - Based in the UK we market Holiday [email protected] for list. (Ref 1183)

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VARIOUS

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Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements and assumes no responsibility for their content.

195c

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124

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Tel: 348 3301134

P.Iva 01562310464

GEOMETRA

consulting for property purchases & sales,

documentation, title searches,

plans & projects ...

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

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