maximum yield nz sept/oct 2013

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FREE INDOOR GARDENING New Zealand September/October 2013 CitricAcid Consider Using i PLUS i Hydroponic Hygiene The Truth About Composting Ten Tips for Starting Your First Garden MAXIMUM YIELD’S LONG BEACH CALIFORNIA OCTOBER 26-27, 2013 indoorgardeningexpo.com maximumyield.com

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Page 1: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

FREEI N D O O R G A R D E N I N G

New Zealand September/October 2013

Citric Acid

ConsiderUsing

i PLUS iHydroponic Hygiene

The Truth About CompostingTen Tips for Starting Your First Garden

MaxiMuM Yield’s LONG BEACH CALIFORNIAOCTOBER 26-27, 2013

indoorgardeningexpo.commaximumyield.com

Page 2: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

2 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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4 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

DEPARTMENTS

CONTENTSSept/Oct 2013

6 From the Editor

8 Letters to the Editor

10 Ask the Experts

12 MAX Facts

20 Product Spotlight

54 Do You Know

26 Clean and Green Hydroponic Hygiene by Dr. Lynette Morgan

34 Composting: Is It Just a Load of Rubbish?by Steve Cownley

FEATURES

38 Transplanting from Aeroponicsby Karen Wilkinson

42 Consider Using Citric Acidby Donald Lester

46 Ten Tips for Starting Your First Gardenby Grubbycup

56 Growers Know

58 Talking Shop

60 Distributors

62 Coming up Next

62 MaximumYield.com

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6 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

FROM THE EDITOR | LINDA jESSON

Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor

COnTRiBuTORs

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout the USA, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

Grubbycup has been an avid indoor gardener for more than 20 years. His articles were fi rst published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czech and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored fi ve hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

Karen Wilkinson works for EZ-CLONE Enterprises, Inc. as its social media editor. She came to them with a background in journalism and technical writing and is learning to grow, clone and write for the hydroponics community. She’s a budding gardener and loves growing her own vegetables.

Donald Lester is the product manager at JH Biotech, a commercial fertilizer manufacturer with 28 OMRI-certifi ed organic products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with more than 10 years of agricultural research experience and 50 scientifi c publications to his credit. He is also director of SaferGro Laboratories, a home and garden products company located in Ventura, California.

A successful garden provides many benefits: home-grown, fresh vegetables, flowers to add colour to your home, an activity that gets you off the sofa, the satisfaction of knowing that you pro-duced what you are eating and being able to share the spoils with friends and family. But achieving success in the garden takes a bit of work and planning. In this issue, we get you off to a good start by breaking the growing process down into 10 easy steps. In “Composting: Is It Just a Load of Rubbish?”, we learn all about which materials should go in the compost pile, and which materials should never be added. Having issues with keeping fungi, bacteria and viruses out of your indoor grow space? We show you how to keep your indoor garden sparkling clean and problem free. In our Growers Know section, we expose the damp, dark

world of underground mushroom production through an interview with Dr. Noel Arrold from Li-Sun Exotic Mushrooms. We also highlight some of the latest and best products available to growers and share some interesting news, tips and trivia. And if you haven't had a chance to check out any of the stops

on Maximum Yield's 2013 Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Tour, the final expo takes place October 26 to 27 in Long Beach, California. This world-class event will be a combina-tion indoor gardening and hydro life expo featuring leading experts from the hydro, snow, surf, skate and bike industries. Check out indoorgardenexpo.com for more information, as well as special accommodation rates, exhibitor lists, free VIP tickets and other updates.Questions or comments about anything you see in this issue

of Maximum Yield? We'd love to hear from you. Simply email [email protected] to share your thoughts.

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8 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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LETTERs TO THE EDITOR VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 3 September/October 2013

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687

No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do

not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.Publication Agreement Number 40739092

PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim JessonGENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda JessonEDITORIAL

[email protected] Editor Linda JessonAssistant Editors

Julie McManusJennifer McGarrigle

ADVERTISING SALESSales Manager

Ilona Hawser - [email protected]

Account ExecutivesKelsey Hepples - [email protected] Montague - [email protected]

Jed Walker - [email protected] Doyle - [email protected]

PRODUCTION & DESIGN [email protected]

Art Director Alice Joe

Graphic DesignersJennifer EvertsDionne Hurd

Jesslyn Gosling

ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - [email protected]

Ava Siemans - [email protected]

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTIONDome Garden Supply

Holland ForgeHouse N’ Garden

GrowlushHydroponic Generations

Plant Symbionts

UK DISTRIBUTIONGrowth Technology

Future Harvest Development EuropeNutriculture UK

Direct Garden Supplies Dutch Pro

Maxigro Ltd.

CANADIAN DISTRIBUTIONBrite-Lite Group

BiofloralEddis Wholesale

Greenstar Plant Products Inc.HydrotekMegaWatt

Quality Wholesale

USA DISTRIBUTIONAurora Innovations

BWGSGeneral HydroponicsHumboldt Wholesale

HydrofarmHydro International

National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight SupplyR&M SupplyTradewinds

We Want to hear from you!Maximum YieldPublications Inc.Snail-mail:2339 Delinea Place,Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9, Canada

Email: [email protected]: twitter.com/max_yieldFacebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield

I’m a Fan Winners AnnouncedArmando Mushik from Thermal, California, is the sixth winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest! Armando said, “I am a fan of Maximum Yield because it seems that every time I am thinking of something, or am moving to the next step in growing knowledge, the info is often provided by Maximum Yield. I call my hydroponics store three hours from my house to see when they will have the next copy. When they do, I drive to go get one, plus supplies. Thank you for every-thing and all the great information you provide and thank you for the free back issues available online.”

Thanks for the kind words, Armando, and congratulations on winning Maxi-mum Yield’s sixth I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Green Coast Hydroponics.

Shawn Curry from Houston, Texas, is the seventh winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest! Shawn said, “Your magazine is what got me first interested in growing and gardening. Using the information I read in your maga-zine has gotten me to experiment with many different growing techniques. To me growing is more than a hobby; it is also therapeutic. At age 20 I enlisted in the army infantry. I was in the third infantry division and in the initial invasion of Iraq. In 2004, I was honourably discharged from the army and I’ve been dealing with PTSD. I’m glad that two years ago I found your magazine because it is helping change my life for the better.”

Thank you for sharing you story with us, Shawn, and congratulations on win-ning Maximum Yield’s seventh I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply.

Armando Mushik

Shawn Curry

Great SourceI’m a fan of Maximum Yield because it’s a great source of information and there are a lot of good articles within each issue.Robert, Seaford, Victoria

Knowledge is KeyI believe knowledge is the best key to suc-cess. I feel guilty enough in this day and age running two 400-W lamps inside when the sun is free outside. Maximum Yield gives me the information I need to ensure my system not only runs at its peak potential, but highlights areas of poten-tial change that can be letting me down, sometimes without me even realising it! In short, Maximum Yield magazine gives me a maximum yield!Craig, Yarraville, Victoria

We recently asked our Facebook fans:

“Who supplements their indoor/greenhouse with CO2

? How are you doing it and to what level and what difference in growth or yields are you observing?”

Below are some of the great responses we received.

I do with a parts-per-million reader, flow regulator and CO2

tank that I refill weekly. I’ve seen enhanced yields as high as 20% from my standard production.” Don

Using rapid air exchange, plus having the brew kit in the room adds extra CO2

to the atmosphere; it is only an increase of 2-300 ppm [sic], but dur-ing veg this helps.” Bailey

Your

Two

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10 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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siMOn sAYsAsK THE EXPERTs

Casey Jones Fraser So your closet is 76.20-cm wide by 1.83-m long by 1.52-m tall. The good news is that I have grown in a similar closet; the bad news is that a 1.52-m ceiling doesn’t give you much vertical space. The best HID lighting for that space is either a pair of 600-W lights in a long glass tube, like you described, or a 1,000-W light on a mover. I personally prefer the 1,000 W on a mover, and I suggest you get a high-end mover that pauses at each end. This will give you more even growth and stronger plants. Heat is another issue, and the pair of 600-W lights in a cool tube might be the better option if high tem-peratures are a problem. Digital ballasts are a great option,

and they have continued to improve in recent years. For two 600-W lights, I prefer two ballasts over one dual ballast. A dual bal-last doesn’t save any electricity; it is simply one enclosure with two ballasts inside. If one of the internal ballasts fails, you’ll have to shut down both lights for repair or replacement. If you go with that option, I recommend keep-ing a spare magnetic ballast for emergencies. If you get a 1,000-W light, you might want to start with a digital ballast and buy a spare magnetic when you can. Then you will be able to use a top-notch bal-last with a low-cost backup ballast in case of lighting failure.

I am starting to grow in an indoor closet, which is 76.20-cm wide by 1.83-m long by 1.52-m tall. I don’t know what type of reflector I should use. Do I need two for that length? What do you think about a 152.40-cm cool tube? What ballast is best? I was looking at the 600-W dual bulb. Or, should I just do one 1,000 W? Please help me out! Thanks,Karen Catalino

Regarding retail stores and organic nutrients, you will need to do some legwork. There are tons of great stores in Australia, so start shopping around. Find a knowledgeable sales clerk who grows with organics. You can build a friendly relationship and exchange information each time you stop in. This type of interaction will give you access to expertise and troubleshooting, but you must find a reliable source with a deep under-standing of organic plant science. If he or she doesn’t know much about beneficial bacteria and fungi, you’ve got the wrong clerk.One more thing: keep your plants

short! With a 1.52-m ceiling, your plants will need to finish at about 0.76 m or shorter. Start flowering them at about 20 cm, keeping night temperatures above 18.33°C and day temperatures below 26.67°C. Give them B vitamins and carbohydrates along with low nitrogen base nutri-ents. These suggestions are key to growing short, stout plants with excel-lent quality.

Casey Jones Fraser

Casey Jones Fraser owns Garden Grove Organics in the United States. He has a degree in communications and electronic media. He believes that indoor gardeners can achieve the highest quality crops and maximum yields when proper science is applied. Since 1998, Casey has been testing various nutrients and supplements in search of outstanding harvests.

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MAX FACTS hydrOpONiC NEwS, TipS ANd TriviA

MAXFACTS HYDrOPONIC NEWS, TIPS AND TrIVIA

Fruit Still Alive After Harvest: StudyProduce you buy in the shops is still alive and all those blueberries and zucchinis are still responding to the time of day, say scientists. The study showed that post-harvest vegetables and fruits continued to perceive light so their biological clocks kept on ticking. The plants responded to the light by altering levels of chemicals that protect them from being eaten by insects and other herbivores.(Source: weeklytimesnow.com.au)

Banana FlourTurning bananas into flour is the latest project for an innovative Far North Queensland banana farmer. robert Watkins developed a prototype for a recy-clable carton liner he affectionately dubbed the “banana blankey” to get his lady finger bananas to market and was well on his was to commercialising the product when he was named the ABC-Kondinin Group's 2010 Australian Farmer of the Year. His latest venture—banana flour—takes him into the food manufac-turing industry and plans are to build a factory on the Atherton Tableland and adopt innovations that will improve efficiency and reduce labour costs. “It's a powder of such, which is a gluten-free product, extremely high in resistant starch and very nutritious,” said Watkins. “It's not new in the world; Africans have eaten it for thousands of years in some countries.”(Source: abc.net.au)

Avocado Exporters Band TogetherThe trend for New Zealand avocado exporters to co-operate rath-er than compete in offshore markets has taken another step. The country's two biggest avocado exporters have joined forces in a new partnership-—AVOCO—to sell their fruit in Australia, the country's biggest overseas market, where they had formerly been rivals. The partnership is anticipating higher returns this year and says the trade there could reach $50 million for the first time. AVOCO director John Carroll said New Zealand is a small supplier of avocados with 2% of the world's trade in the crop available for only a portion of year.(Source: radionz.co.nz)

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MAX FACTS hydrOpONiC NEwS, TipS ANd TriviA

Bumper Year for New Zealand Wine GrowersLast summer's drought was disastrous for many New Zealand farmers, but for wine growers, the conditions were near perfect and resulted in record production of 345,000 tonnes for the 2013 season. The season, which ended in early May, marked a rise of 28.5% on the short 2012 crop and was 5% higher than the previous record set in 2011.(Source: nzherald.co.nz)

Apple Industry Positives Despite weather troubles, South Australian apple growers had a good season. Susie Green, Apple and Pear Growers Association of South Australia CEO, said the quality of the fruit was excellent and that market conditions had also been good. Prices are a bit stron-ger than last year, but yields are down 10% from last year's bumper crop, she said.(Source: queenslandcountrylife.com.au)

Magnificent MushroomsMushrooms may be the next wonder food. research by Dr. Carolyn Lister's team at the Plant and Food research location in Lincoln, New Zealand, shows eating mushrooms can benefit skin, teeth, hair, eyesight, bones, joints and even the brain. The study, commissioned by New Zealand’s leading supplier, Meadow Mushrooms, shows that mushrooms: assist the body in using the energy it gets from food, help support a healthy immune system, protect the body from free radical damage, con-tribute to reducing fatigue and promote growth and development in children.(Source: freshplaza.com)

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16 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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MAX FACTS hydrOpONiC NEwS, TipS ANd TriviA

Young People Needed in AgricultureScientists, engineers, software designers and entrepreneurs are needed in Australia's agriculture industry. The Australian Council of Deans of Agriculture says there's 4,000 graduate level positions available, for about 700 graduates each year. “We're trying to make a national campaign to raise food production and food exports from Australia and there really aren't enough young people going into the industry,” said rick roush, a University of Melbourne professor and member of the council. “We know that the average age of farmers is well over 50, but there's also a large shortage of people to work in the agricultural industry at a sup-port level; people to work in research, agronomy and within companies.”(Source: abc.net.au)

Grapes Get Green LightTable grapes from California will be allowed into Western Australia under strict import condi-tions. The Department of Agriculture and Food (DAFWA) will amend its import conditions for fresh Californian table grapes into the state in response to a change in Commonwealth import conditions. The Commonwealth Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry recommended that fresh table grapes from California be permitted entry to WA subject to appropriate bio-security measures. DAFWA director general rob Delane said WA is free of several damaging pests and diseases including a fungus called Phomopsis viticola, which is found in many other grape growing regions in Australia and internationally. WA growers believe the fungal pathogen would decimate the state's table grape and wine industries.(Source: au.news.yahoo.com)

Fruit Fly Eradication Efforts SquashedSouth Australian citrus growers are concerned about a Victorian Government decision to cease fruit fly eradication efforts. The Victorian Department of Primary Industries said it is no longer economically viable to try to eradicate the pest and it will now just manage it. The chairman of Citrus Australia's State committee, Con Poulos, said the group has expressed its concerns about the issue to BioSecurity SA since last year. almost all of Victoria's fruit production zones are now affected by outbreaks, but the Sunraysia district remains fruit fly-free.(Source: abc.net.au)

Veggie Program Has Healthy ResultsA weekly subsidized fruit and vegetable program was recently shown to significantly improve the health of indigenous chil-dren from low-income families. researchers found the children required less antibiotics and there was a small but significant increase in their hemoglobin levels. The study involved children from 55 families living in New South Wales. Each family was given a weekly box of subsidized fruit and vegetables, valued at $40, as well as nutritional information and recipes.(Source: news.com.au)

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20 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

prOdUCT SpOTLiGhT

Growlush Australia HDT TimerThe Growlush Heavy Duty Timer (HDT) range of timer delay contact boxes are designed to carry large current loads and are suitable for large light and power operations. There are plug-and-play and hard-wire versions, both of which are fitted with an industrial grade of timer delay unit. The Growlush HDT timers come in four types to meet the needs of every grower. Please refer to the user manual for installation instructions and check the Growlush HDT voltage and wattage rating before connecting to any supply. Contact your local grow store for more information.

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store.

CANNA CoCoAfter years of research, CANNA succeeded in being the first to develop a fertiliser specifically tailored to the characteristics of the coco substrate. Thanks to the special characteristics of the CANNA COCO substrate, CANNA COCO does not have a Vega and Flores version. Instead, CANNA has developed one unique formulation for both the growth and flowering phase. CANNA COCO is easy to use, dissolves directly and is extremely suitable for growing in many watering systems. For more information about CANNA COCO fertilisers, please go to a shop near you.

Gnat Nix by GrowstoneIntroducing the scientifically proven, environmentally friendly fungus gnat control called Gnat Nix. Gnat Nix is free of harmful pesticides and chemicals and is made from 100% recycled glass. Plants love it. Gnats don’t. Gnat Nix is a non-toxic, chemical-free fungus gnat control and is considered a long-last-ing top dressing effective under dry or moist conditions. It’s great for both indoor and outdoor use. University trials have proved Gnat Nix used as a top dressing is an effective physical barrier against fungus gnats. It prevents adult emergence from hatching larvae and deters females from laying eggs in the growing media. As a result, the lifecycle of fungus gnats is interrupted. All you need to do is apply a 1.5-cm thick layer of Gnat Nix to fully cover the surface of the growing medium in your growing containers. Visit a store near you to learn more.

Method Seven Prescription opticsMethod Seven Optics, which delivers colour balance, clarity and protection while working under various grow lighting environ-ments, has introduced prescription glasses for HPS, metal halide and LED lighting. Available in the patent-pending rendi-tion Series glass and the Carl Zeiss Vision Fission Series, these glasses come in several prescription options, including bi-focal and progressives. Now growers who require prescription glasses can enjoy colour, clarity and protection with Method Seven tech-

nology. Learn more at an indoor gardening

store in your area.

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21Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

Method Seven operator LED opticsMethod Seven, the company that developed perfect colour-balancing optics for working under HPS lights, has introduced the first optics designed for LED grow lights. The Operator LED is part of Method Seven’s Fission Series manufactured by Carl Zeiss Vision. This lens offers the grower extreme clarity, focus and protection while working under LED lights. Growers can now experi-ence daylight balance colour under the harsh conditions of LED grow lights and protect themselves from UV. The LED Fission lens is both lightweight and shat-terproof. To learn more, visit an indoor gardening store in your area.

Sun System Light Emitting Ceramic 315Sunlight Supply is excited to announce the arrival of the Sun System® Light Emitting Ceramic (LEC) 315 light fixture. Sun System LEC 315 utilises cutting-edge Light Emitting Ceramic™ technology, along with a specially engineered 98% reflective op-tical cavity. This product includes a highly efficient, agriculturally engineered Philips CDM-T Elite Agro Lamp. Get greatly improved full-colour light spectrum with higher amounts of beneficial UV and far red spectrums increasing the lamp’s growing power. The Sun System LED 315 provides high 1.95 PPF per second light source; 3,100-K colour temperature; high 92 CrI and 33,000 initial lumens (105 lm/W). The unique open-rated lamp con-struction reduces radiant heat from the arc tube and is suitable for open fixture use. This 50/60 Hz low frequency, square wave, highly efficient electronic ballast has a 50,000-hour life. Visit a local retailer for more information.

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prOdUCT SpOTLiGhT

Gavita DigiStar E-series BallastsTogether with the Gavita Master controllers, Gavita Holland introduces the new DigiStar e-series electronic ballasts. The DigiStar e-series bal-lasts are not only dimmable by the selector on the ballast, but they also have rJ inputs for the Gavita master controller signal. This way you can centrally control them all. There is no need for a switchboard when you operate the ballasts with the controller; when switched off, the ballasts go into stand-by mode. Operating mode, lamp, voltage and temperature warnings are displayed by a three-colour status LED with a memory for warnings. The DigiStar e-series operates at a high frequency, requiring high frequency lamps such as the Gavita enhanced HPS lamp. They can be dimmed to 50% and boosted to 110% (400-W and 600-W models) or 115% (1,000-W models) and are available in 240-V and 120/240-V models. For further details, visit a retail store near you.

Gavita Master ControllersGavita Holland introduces a line of electronic lighting controllers for the new controllable e-series DigiStar ballasts, plasma lamps and e-series Pro-line luminaires. Gavita Master controllers are extremely easy to use and have a full text interface in five languages on the bright green display and five-button interface. They feature centralized on/off/dim/boost control, auto-dim at high temperatures, emergency shut-down at critical temperatures, sunrise/sunset and alarm outputs and can optionally switch 2x15 amps accessories such as CO2 equipment and heating with the optional external contactor modules. Connecting the Gavita Master Controllers is a breeze due to the standard rJ connectors, enabling plug-and-play installation. The controller completely replaces timers and switchboards and elimi-nates ballast in-rush current. The EL2 controller can either steer one room with 50 ballasts, or two rooms alternating every 12 hours for optimal available power use. Visit a local gardening store for more information.

SuperCloset’s LED SuperNova Hydroponic Grow BoxSuperCloset has added a new LED hydroponic grow box, the LED SuperNova, to its suite of hydroponics systems and its grow cabinet product line. The LED SuperNova is among the largest grow boxes on the market today standing at 198.12-cm high by 106.68-cm wide by 60.96-cm deep. The LED SuperNova grow box utilizes a proprietary spectrum to flower large yields in tight spaces. Heat is dissipated efficiently amongst the 2-cm aluminum circuit boards that are the backbone of the SuperNova LED lighting system. The benefits of the new LED SuperNova are immense; it uses about half of the electricity as a 600-W HID light while producing similar luminous efficiency. For more information, visit a local retailer.

HydrotonHydroton is a unique, lightweight, expanded clay aggregate. It is ecologically sustainable as it is derived from a replenishable source: clay. Clay naturally has balanced capillary action to accelerate plant growth with an ideal surface for root structures and beneficial bacteria. Hydroton drains freely, is pH adjusted, free of harmful heavy metals and is inert. Growers can use Hydroton as a stand-alone grow media for most hydroponic growing systems, as well as mixing in with other medias such as coco, potting soil or rockwool for increased aeration and drainage. Visit a local retailer for further details.

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SuperCloset’s Big Buddha BoxThe Big Buddha Box is SuperCloset’s highest yielding hydroponic grow system. It is vertically oriented and contains four multi-shelved walls with 87-net cups nested within the tiered grow trays situated around a centralised light column that extends from floor to ceil-ing. The effect of this set-up is four lush walls of flora all growing towards the centre of the system. The heart of the Big Buddha Box is the Superponics hydroponics system that utilises both ebb and flow and deep water culture to achieve maximum oxygenation of the plant roots. The vertical Big Buddha helps growers quadruple their yields while only using half the electricity of a hori-zontally oriented hydroponics system. Fully automated pumps slowly raise and lower the water level in each lateral tank, which ensures roots receive equal levels of oxygen. For more information, visit a local retail store.

B’cuzz Blossom Builder LiquidEspecially for the grower who only wants the best for their plants, Atami has expanded their B’cuzz range with the Blossom Builder Liquid, a finisher like no other. It is commonly known that as the flow-ering phase progresses, your plant’s need for phosphorus and potas-sium will increase as well. Especially for the final two to four weeks in this flowering phase, Atami has developed B’cuzz Blossom Builder Liquid. Blossom Builder Liquid ensures an improved structure of the fruit and creates strong, healthy and beautifully large fragrant flowers and fruit. Due to the unique P:K ratio of 9% and 19%, Blossom Builder Liquid meets all the needs of your plants. In addition, the higher level of phosphorus compared to potassium improves the hardening of the fruit. This product can be used in combination with soil, coco and hydro, and it is usable in any irriga-tion system. For more information, ask for it at a local retailer.

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Growlush Australia Industrial-grade Timer Boxes When using HID lighting you must control your lighting cycle with a contactor timer. This is because a normal domestic timer unit cannot withstand the high electrical conductive load required to ignite the HID lighting. Plugging HID lighting directly into a domestic timer unit will cause the timer to prematurely fail and lead to a potential electrical hazard that may result in your lights being fused either on or off. The Growlush Timer Box range is a professional, heavy duty industrial lighting switch that offers unrivalled quality and reliability. Items are professionally built with industrial relay and contactors and are rated at 20-A max. Each timer box comes with a protected reset-table fuse, rubberised moulded plugs, a handy hanging bracket and a universal socket. There are two-, four-, six- and eight-socket versions available. For more infor-mation, Growlush Australia Industrial Grade Timer Boxes are now available from your local grow store.

Hydro Series T5 Propagation Lights Hydro Series T5 propagation lights offer a headache-free solution for keeping young clones, seedlings and precious mother plants productive while saving electricity and keeping temperatures in propagation areas low. Designed by indus-try-leading reflector manufacturer Growlite and utilising 95% reflectivity aluminium, these propagation lights provide even light distribution with specially manufactured reflectors that increase lumen output. Because these lights feature cool running, high output fluorescent lights, they can be placed close to plants to maximise light absorption without risk-ing heat burn, all while minimising growing temperatures. This versatile light can also be hung sideways for use as supplemental lighting for more mature plants. These fixtures are encased in a tough, powder-coated steel housing with side vents to allow for cool operation, and are backed by a three-year warranty. Extra value-added features include a series power outlet that allows multiple lights to be powered from a single electrical outlet, mul-tiple on/off switches and a set of high output 6,500-K T5 bulbs so you can begin growing using these lights straight out of the box. The Hydro Series T5 propagation lights are offered in several configurations. Please visit your local store for more information.

B’cuzz Bloom StimulatorFor many plants, the flowering period is the most important period in the cycle. The B’cuzz Bloom Stimulator will force blooming at an early stage, which will start the flowering period earlier and ultimately make it last longer and happen more intensely. This bloom stimulator can be absorbed directly by the plant and it contributes to an explosive flower production. B’cuzz Bloom Stimulator is available in the following sizes: 100 ml, 500 ml, 1 L and 5 L. Find out more information at a retailer near you.

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SuperCloset LED Trinity 3.0 Hydroponic Grow BoxSuperCloset’s LED Trinity 3.0 grow box is 1.83-m tall, 1.83-m wide and 0.61-m deep. It features three independent lighting systems to allow indoor gardeners the ability to move plants, based on their age and height, through different grow environments. The LED lights used in the system are proprietary eight bandwidth spectrum LEDs that run on 700 mA. The LED Trinity 3.0 is a much more sustainable product than the traditional HID Trinity 3.0 and has garnered many accolades even in its short release. To learn more, ask about the LED Trinity at a local retailer.

CANNA CoCo SubstratesGrowing in coco is among the most popular grow-ing methods. Years ago, CANNA developed two different substrates: CANNA COCO Natural and CANNA Profes-sional Plus. CANNA COCO Natural is an organic product free of harmful viruses or soil diseases. It has an excellent water/air system and provides the ideal circumstances for this cultivation method. This product is lightly buffered, meaning you have more control over the buffering process and have more influence on the plant’s growth and bloom. CANNA COCO Professional Plus is a pure, organic product with a homogeneous structure. It is free of harm-ful viruses and soil diseases thanks to CANNA’s unique production process, and it is fully buffered. It also has a complex water/air system that provides the ideal condi-tions. Just like the Natural, CANNA COCO Professional Plus contains trichoderma that protect the plant. Visit your local grow store for more information about both products.

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A little housekeeping can go a long way in keeping fungi, bacteria and

viruses out of your grow space.

Clean & Green

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Hydroponic Hygiene

Many unseen nasties can cohabitate happily with plants in an indoor garden or greenhouse—after all, warmth, moisture and nutrients provide a cozy environment for a wide range of life forms. Fungi, bacteria and viruses all tend to have survival stages that can be carried over from one crop to the next, making cleanliness and hygiene an important aspect of grow-ing healthy plants. This coupled with the fact that some fungi

in particular can also have a negative effect on our health means that growers need to do some housekeeping from time to time to make sure the growing area remains a pleasant and healthy place to relax in. While there are some efficient, high-tech cleaning compounds on the market, smaller growers don’t necessarily need to invest in an arsenal of disinfectants, as some of the older, simpler versions still work well.

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WhAt Are We deAling With?Fungal spores, bacteria and viruses are difficult to keep out of a growing area as they can hitch a ride on new plants, seeds, equipment, growing substrates, clothing and footwear, as well as in dust, air currents or water, or they can be carried in by insects and other pests. For hydroponic growers, algae can become a cleaner’s night-mare as it will flourish anywhere there is light, moisture and nutrients, creating a persistent, slimy mess that can harbour fungus gnats and shore flies.A heavy infestation of sucking pests such as whitefly

will rapidly leave a thick, black, sticky residue over every surface—this is honey dew, which the insects excrete as they are feeding, and which then becomes colonised by sooty mould. The honeydew/sooty mould residue becomes difficult to remove—especially once it’s fully dried—and this is often the biggest cleaning challenge for most growers. Apart from pest grime, bio-films can develop on many surfaces creating a layer of organic material, which can shelter a range of pests and diseases such as fungal spores and insect eggs. Bio-films can also develop on the inside of nutrient reservoirs and growing channels, and these can harbour waterborne diseases such as pythium.

CArry over to neW plAntsOld plant debris—fallen leaves, trimmings, prunings and spent media—all create an ideal environment for pest and disease transfer. Some disease spores can survive for years inside old plant debris, while insect eggs may make the material a new source of infestations for many months to come. For this reason composting old plant material and growing media inside the growing area is not a good idea. Even growers who dump plant trim-mings outside greenhouses have had issues with insect pests coming right back inside and carrying viruses with them. All old plant material should be bagged up, sealed and removed from the growing area immediately, par-ticularly where decaying or diseased foliage or plants are being removed.

“Fungi, bacteria and viruses all tend to have survival stages that can be carried over From one crop to the next, making cleanliness and hygiene an

important aspect oF growing healthy plants.”

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CleAning And disinfeCtion produCts And proCeduresThere is a huge range of disinfecting and cleaning products on the market registered for use in the horticultural industry. Some chemical disinfectants and cleaners have the potential to be toxic to plants if residues are not removed before plant-ing the next crop, and extra care needs to be taken with com-pounds used to clean reservoirs, tanks and growing channels.There are several different types of disinfectants that are

commonly used in greenhouses, pack houses and indoor gar-dens for plant disease control and general cleaning between crops. One of the oldest yet still quite effective disinfection agents is diluted household bleach (sodium hypochlorite), which provides a high kill rate for spores, bacteria and viruses when provided sufficient contact time. Bleach should be diluted to a 10% solution with water before use in a well-ventilated area, and a contact time of 30 minutes should be allowed on surfaces being cleaned. Bleach residues, however, need to be thoroughly washed away before plant-ing out the next lot of seedlings. The effectiveness of bleach can be increased by mixing a little good-quality detergent (a non-ionic surfactant) into the diluted bleach, which helps remove more grime and acts as a wetting agent. Other compounds typically contained in greenhouse disinfection

“For hydroponic growers, algae can become a cleaner’s nightmare as it

will Flourish anywhere there is light, moisture and nutrients, creating a persistent, slimy mess that can

harbour Fungus gnats and shore Flies.”

agents are quaternary ammonium chloride salts, hydrogen dioxide and chlorine dioxide. Seventy per cent alcohol can also be used for dipping tools and wiping surfaces, and needs no rinsing to remove residues.For those who want their indoor garden to remain “chemi-

cal free”, hot water and detergent combined with some elbow grease can be highly effective if all the surfaces are covered and well scrubbed. For stubborn grime, insect messes and sooty mould residues, using a paste of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) can help as a scouring agent, but again it needs to be washed thoroughly after use. An old-fashioned household cleaning mixture of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and citric acid or vinegar is suit-able for cleaning a range of surfaces in the growing area, including channel surfaces, tanks, equipment, walls and floors. There are also new products available that don’t use chemical compounds and have been designed especially for use in greener growing environments.

Left above: The ultimate in cleanliness and crop hygiene.Left below: Sparkly clean and disinfected, ready for planting a new crop.Above: Commercial greenhouse growers need to take crop hygiene seriously to help prevent major disease outbreaks.

CleAn And Green

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CleAn And Green

“most plants are sensitive to many oF the cleaning compounds

we commonly use, including bleach, h

2o

2 and even repeat

applications oF soaps and detergents, so in-crop hygiene

needs to be more delicate.”

Left: Botrytis or grey mould spores become airborne and can land on surfaces all around the growing area, ready to infect a new crop. Middle: Algae growth on the top of rockwool cubes can become so thick as to retard nutrient flow down to the roots. right: Algae will grow on all surfaces where light, moisture and nutrients are present.

before replanting. Many growers who have a water supply that is considered hard—containing high levels of calcium—often find their pumps, tanks, irrigation lines and channels scale up with a hard white deposit. One of the most effective ways of removing this hard lime scale is with a soak of diluted acid (phosphoric or nitric), which will dissolve away the deposits; this method is particularly good for soaking drippers or emit-ters that are otherwise difficult to clean.

hygiene during the Cropping CyCleWhile a good scrub with heavy duty disinfectant and cleaning agents is fine when the growing area is empty, maintaining hygiene when there are plants in place is another matter. Most plants are sensitive to many of the cleaning compounds we commonly use, including bleach, H2O2 and even repeat applications of soaps and detergents, so in-crop hygiene needs to be more delicate. Usually it is the nutrient reservoir that needs the most attention when the plants are growing, as algae, salt deposits, lime scale and other slime can all build up, particularly if some light is reaching the nutrient inside the reservoir. A quick drain, scrub and rinse should be all that’s needed to keep the nutrient tank in good condi-tion when plants are still in the system. Any algae growing on other surfaces—such as on top of growing media, in return channels or on the floor where leaks occur—needs regular control. Putting light plastic film covers over the top of growing media is the safest and most effective way of preventing and killing algae, as chemical control agents can cause phytotoxicity to the roots. On hard surfaces such as floors and channel tops, algae can be sprayed or wiped with disinfectant, provided none of this makes its way back into the nutrient solution. Algae can be a problem in an other-wise clean growing area as it acts as a food source for fungus gnats, and the gnat larvae can cause serious plant damage when they feed on the roots, as well as spreading spores of certain plant pathogens.Prevention of pest and disease problems is just as important

as cleanliness. For growing areas where dirty shoes may tramp in soil and other dirt, foot baths, even in a small growing area, can be important. A shal-low tray with a nonslip mat on the base filled with diluted disinfectant

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), also called hydrogen dioxide, is another popular ingredient in cleaning agents. H2O2 is a powerful oxidant and disinfection agent provided it is used at the correct dose (at least 200 to 300 ppm) and allowed a contact time of more than 15 minutes where spores and other thick dirt may have accumulated. H2O2 also needs to be well rinsed away or left to dissipate over a period of a few days, as even low levels of residue—as low as 10 ppm—have been found to have a negative effect on the growth of young and sensitive seedlings in hydroponics.Running a solution of bleach or H2O2 through empty solu-

tion culture systems such as NFT, DFT or aeroponics between crops is a good way to clear out any organic matter or disease spores from inside the irrigation lines; however, these need to be rinsed well and run with clean water for at least 24 hours

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(bleach or some other product), placed in the doorway so that anyone entering has to step both feet into it, has been shown to prevent many fungal spores and insects from entering the growing area. Allowing only clean water, equipment and materials to enter the grow room and regular monitoring of the plants is also important for preventing disease outbreaks. Pruning knives, scissors and other tools should be cleaned between crops with a quick dip in alcohol or a strong bleach solution, as this prevents the carryover of any sap-transmitted viruses or other spores such as Botrytis, which can infect cut surfaces.

“If the water supply to the hydroponIc system Is not from

a clean source, thIs can become a major obstacle to keepIng a

hygIenIc growIng area.”

Any new plants or seedlings being brought into the growing area should be thoroughly inspected for pest or disease problems and, if possible, quarantined away from the main growing system for at least a week. New plant material is one of the most common sources of pest and disease introduction, so it pays to know what the early signs of any problems may look like before introducing any new additions to the system.If the water supply to the hydroponic system is not

from a clean source, this can become a major obstacle to keeping a hygienic growing area. Generally, munici-pal water supplies are treated with disinfectant chemi-cals, and although sometimes these chemicals—such as chloramines—can cause plant damage of their own, the water is usually free of plant pathogens. Collected rain or ground water may need treat-

ment before use in hydroponic systems, although not all these water sources would be considered as contaminated for plant growth. Unclean water can contain a number of waterborne problems, includ-ing the dreaded pathogens phytophthora, pythium and fusarium. These days, small hydroponic growers have a good choice of water treatment options, with non-chemical methods such as ultraviolet light, ozone or reverse osmosis providing less risk than chemical-based water disinfection agents.Keeping a clean, green growing environment is not

only more pleasant to work and relax in—it provides some sensible preventive measures in the grower’s unceasing battle against the unwanted insect intruders and nasty disease pathogens that are always looking to invade your indoor kingdom!

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Is it Just a Load of Rubbish?To compost or not to compost,

CompostIng: that is the question.

by Steve Cownley

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There’s no doubt about it, compost-ing is a beneficial practice that any self-respecting gar-dener should know how to do. We have been told that composting can be done with any organic material. However, there are several organic materials that should not be included in the compost pile unless you know how to do it properly and there are other materials that should never be added. To compost or not to compost, that is indeed the question.Home composters have a variety of compostable

materials available in their homes and backyards. Let’s begin with something our front lawn is always dying to dispose of: excess grass. Grass clippings from our lawn can be put to better use in a backyard compost pile. Hay clippings are also acceptable. Be sure to use green hay, which still has a lot of nitrogen in it.Other compostable materials include kitchen waste

such as vegetable peels, fruit rinds, tea bags, eggshells and coffee grounds. These substances contain high levels of nitrogen. Make sure to keep pests away from your kitchen waste. A compost bin intended for kitchen waste works great or you can simply bury your waste in 20 cm of soil. It is best to avoid scraps of meat, milk products and leftover bones because they attract pests.Wood chips, wood shavings, sawdust, paper and other

wood products are generally acceptable for a compost pile. However, be sure to stay away from chemically treated wood products. Arsenic is a highly toxic chemi-cal that is sometimes used to treat wood. Using sawdust from such treated wood products is not recommended since the chemical will leak into the soil causing more harm than good. Plants that died due to a disease should not be included as there is still a possibility the disease that caused death might infect your future plants.

To compost or not to compost,

there are several organIc materIals that should not be Included In the compost pIle unless

you know how to do It properly and there are other

materIals that should never be added.”

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Similarly, human, dog and cat wastes should not be compos-ted because they contain organisms that could cause disease. Such dis-ease might cause

sickness in people or they might negatively affect your plants.

Even though grasses can be used for composting, it is best to avoid weeds like morning glory, ivy, sheep and kinds of grasses that could grow in your compost pile. The weed’s seeds can survive the composting pile, which can be carried to your new garden. Choosing the right materials will determine how successful your compost pile will be.

Top Reasons for Composting The materials are free and readily available. Compost provides nutrients and minerals

needed by plants. Compost benefits the soil

structure. When applied to soil, compost improves the soil’s resistance to ero-sion, improves its reten-tion of water, and in some types of soil (like clay), it can reduce the chance of compacted soil. This is also important for farmers since compost can make the soil easier to till, conserving time and fuel.

With the right composting technique, you can kill troublesome weeds, pests and disease-causing organisms. High tempera-ture composting will do the trick. However, this technique is not meant for backyard compost piles but rather a laboratory or industrial-type pile.Studies indicate that using compost can

suppress the growth of diseases in crops. Other studies show that crops grown in compost-rich soils can better resist pests

Studies indicate

that usIng compost can suppress the growth of

dIseases In crops.”

and insect attacks. Observations in the field also show that plants grown using compost produce crops that can be stored longer.Using compost together with the soil can build soil

carbon, which will eventually reduce the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.Compost works well as an antidote for soils that are toxic

with agricultural chemicals. Compost can balance the levels of soil acidity, and help farmers switch to organic after years of using synthetic agricultural products.

composting

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MyTh: Composting is limited to farms and wide-open spaces.TRuTh: On the contrary, people living in urban areas with limited space can create their own compost bin from a trash can. How much space would that take up? Another technique you can use is vermicomposting, which involves feeding your table scraps to red worms that are kept in a contained bin.

MyTh: Composting needs precise measurements.TRuTh: Even though composting is best achieved with the right combination of green and brown elements, exact measurements are not necessary. Compost piles work the same if you pile them haphazardly.

MyTh: You need specially formulated chemicals as starters or activators.TRuTh: Despite claims that applying chemicals or activa-tors to the compost pile speeds up the decomposition pro-cess, they are not necessary. Simply adding some finished compost into the newly formed compost pile serves as an activator to get things started.

MyTh: Adding yeast will boost the compost’s performance.TRuTh: This is not true. By adding yeast to your compost pile, you are simply wasting your money.

MyTh: Compost smells.TRuTh: Compost should not smell. If your compost smells bad, then you likely did a poor job picking the materials for the compost pile.

Composting MythsComposting is a natural and simple process and yet it has been complicated by fallacies, misinformation, myths and misunderstandings. Let’s dis-cuss some of the more widely known composting myths.

MyTh: Composting requires a lot of work.TRuTh: Composting is a natural process. All you need to do is gather the materials and let nature do her job. Composting is a low-maintenance activity as well. You only need to turn the compost pile every once in a while to keep the air flowing to quicken the decomposition process.

Composting is a natural process. all you need to do Is gather

the materIals and let nature do her job.”

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Aeroponics is an innovative growing method that makes optimal use of its air-mist environment. There is no grow-ing medium; instead, plants are grown in a closed or semi-closed environment where roots and lower stem are sprayed with a nutrient-water solution. The roots never stand in stagnant water and constantly receive oxygenated water, thanks to the mist cycle. Aeroponically grown plants are fast

to respond to nutrients, as there is no medium between their roots and food. They can grow bigger and bolder than if grown in soil or other media—and due to the direct nature of aero, they have limitless growth potential. To go

down the cheesy lane, the sky’s the limit with aero!Transplanting is by far one of the most

critical stages of a plant’s life—after cloning—and it requires much care and preparation, along with patience and a gentle touch. Just like the stress people feel when moving from one

home or office to another, plants feel similar moving pains. When taken from an aeroponics system to another grow medium, plants are at higher risk of getting broken roots, so handle them delicately. Also, try to limit the number of transplants, and if going into a con-tainer, choose one that is large enough for its roots to spread and live a long time. While there are many, some are more popular than others. We com-piled a list of five growing mediums and detailed the benefits and potential drawbacks of each.

by Karen Wilkinson

“aeroponIcally grown plants are fast to respond to nutrIents, as there Is no medIum between theIr roots and food.”

Transplantingfrom

Aeroponics

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transplanting from aeroponics

To aeroponics A simple and smooth transition for the plants, aero-to-aero is the least messy transplanting method (though aero is arguably one of the most challenging grow methods). For the plants, there is virtually no transplant shock; with proper, plant-specific nutrients, they shouldn’t notice a thing.

To coconut fibreA truly organic growing medium that’s gaining popularity in the grow world, coconut fibre can be used in soil and hydroponic gardening systems; some growers also mix it with perlite or expanded clay for increased drainage.

“when taken from an aeroponIcs system to another grow medIum, plants are at hIgher rIsk of gettIng

broken roots, so handle them delIcately.”

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To expanded clay A wildly popular and simple hydroponic grow-ing medium, expanded clay is lightweight and nearly inert, meaning it’s pH neutral and releases virtually no minerals into the nutri-ent stream. Due to its incredible ability to hold oxygen and nutrients, expended clay is an ideal growing medium for rooted clones and mother plants. Next to soil, it’s the most versatile growing medium.

To soil One of the more forgiving growing mediums, soil is ideal for transplanting to if you want to grow outdoors and enjoy the pleasures of a little dirt.

To rockwool cubes Rockwool is comprised of spun rock, allowing it to retain great amounts of water. It also comes in many shapes and sizes, and holds onto air—which is perfect for a newly trans-planted clone’s vulnerable roots. Like with most growing methods and tech-niques, there is no one right way, as it’s all up to the grower’s preference. So, do what works best for you and don’t be afraid of a little experimentation—it could end up increas-ing your plants’ yield and prove to be a great learning experience.

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Citric acid has many uses in hydroponics and greenhouse environments. In greenhouses and farming operations, citric acid can be used to acidify water or nutrient solutions—and remove calcium deposits, scale and other hard water buildup from tubing, pipes, drippers, tanks, cooling pads, nozzles, glass, equipment and other surfaces. If run through the irri-gation or drip system, citric acid not only clears and removes hard water, calcium, and scale deposits, but over time it can reduce the pH of the soil as well.Citric acid is responsible for the sour taste we experience

when eating lemons, limes, grapefruits, oranges or other citrus fruits. As an ingredient, citric acid is used in many industries you would not expect. Citric acid is a good general cleaner, and is the active ingredient in many bathroom and kitchen cleaning solutions. A solution with a citric acid content of 6% will remove hard water stains from glass without the need for scrubbing. Citric acid is also used to dissolve rust from steel.

CitriC aCid is a good general

cleaner, and is the active ingredient in many

bathroom and kitchen cleaning solutions.”

Citric Acid

ConsiderUsing

by Donald Lester

knowing the way citric acid works in a variety of situations can bring you closer to understanding its benefits in greenhouses, indoor gardens or protected cropping systems.

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in greenhouSeS and farming operations, citric

acid can be used to acidify water or nutrient solutions—and remove calcium deposits, scale and other hard water buildup from tubing,

pipes, drippers, tanks, cooling pads, nozzles, glass, equipment and

other surfaces.”

Citric AcidHere is another example: tobacco is a leafy green plant with high levels of chlorophyll, which is alkaline or high pH. This alkalinity gives cigarette smoke a harsh flavour. Citric acid is added to tobacco during processing to reduce the alkalinity of the leaves. Citric acid is also added to cigarette paper to control the rate at which it burns, allowing the paper and tobacco to burn at the same rate.Many people confuse citric acid with vitamin C

(ascorbic acid), but the two are different, if only slightly. Chemically, the only difference between ascorbic acid and citric acid is that citric acid has one additional oxygen atom. Vitamin C tastes bitter, just like most vitamins, so citric acid is used as a flavour-ing in many preparations of vitamin C to mask the bitter taste of ascorbic acid. At room temperature, citric acid is a white crystalline powder that resem-bles table salt and readily dissolves in water.Acids have different strengths. The acids commonly

used in hydroponics and greenhouses—nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid—are all considered to be strong acids, whereas citric acid, acetic acid (vinegar) and ascorbic acid

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(vitamin C) are considered to be weak acids. Citric acid may be weak, but the citric acid in a lemon is strong enough to power a clock. Those LED clocks plugged into a lemon at children’s science fairs are pow-ered principally by citric acid react-ing with the metal in the wires to create a crude battery. Citric acid is also used in beverages and candies, and although it is considered to be a weak acid, it is known to be capable of dissolving away tooth enamel over time. In fact, it is said that the citric acid in lemon juice will even dissolve a pearl.There have been several articles written about

the basic principles of pH—how low pH is acidic and high pH is alkaline (or basic)—so I will not review that here. But if a solution (or the water for the solution) is high in pH, then the way to reduce that pH is to add an acid. Citric acid products for growers and greenhouse applications usually come as pH-reducing additives, with tables supplied to assist in approximating the amount of product needed to adjust the pH from a given level to the desired level. These tables are helpful, but it is generally better to use a pH meter to ensure accuracy.Perhaps the central issue in mixing any nutrient solution is

the pH or acidity of the water and finished mix. Citric acid is ideal as an acidifier for nutrient stock solutions and pesticide solutions because it is much less likely to react with fertiliser

With the groWth

of the organics market over the years, citric acid has become

popular because it is principally made from natural sources and certified as suitable for use in

organic food production.”

salts or pesticides than other acids. Use

citric acid for acidifying water used to make concentrated fer-

tiliser stocks and pesticide solutions, because high-pH water can hydrolyze or degrade pesticides that are added. By adjusting the pH beforehand, pesticide solutions last longer and their effectiveness is maintained.Some acids used for water acidification also supply a plant

nutrient in conjunction with the acid. For example, nitric acid supplies nitrogen and phosphoric acid supplies phos-phorus. The nutrient supplied can be beneficial to plant growth if not supplied in excess, but it can also react with fertiliser salts in concentrated stock solutions or with pesti-cides if mixed into spray solutions. Growers who acidify their water should adjust their fertilisation program to account for any nutrient supplied by the corresponding acid. For example, if using phosphoric acid, growers need to make

44 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

consider using citric acid

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sure to reduce the phosphorus fertiliser they add accordingly to account for the phosphorus supplied by the acid. These calculations may be too complicated for a beginner, so using citric acid can

simplify the process.With the growth of the organics market

over the years, citric acid has become popu-lar because it is principally made from natu-

ral sources and certified as suitable for use in organic food production. Industrial-scale citric

acid production originally began in 1890, based on the Italian citrus fruit industry. However, microbial

production of citric acid did not become important until World War I disrupted Italian citrus exports. Today, most

citric acid is produced commercially on a large scale by feeding sugar to the bacteria Aspergillus niger.Citric acid is a weak acid that is relatively safe compared to the

strong acids like nitric acid, phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. Because citric acid reduces the pH of solutions it is also a good disinfectant, and it is sometimes used as a cut-flower preservative in vases to reduce the pH of the water to 3.5 to prevent the growth of micro-organisms.Citric acid is relatively safe to use, inexpensive, versatile in its

uses, natural, widely available and certified for use in organic food production. With all of these benefits you should consider using citric acid in your greenhouse, indoor garden or protected crop-ping system.

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A respected And successful gArdener breAks it All down into 10 eAsy steps.

for Starting Your First GardenTen Tips

by grubbycup

Gardens can produce vegetables for the table and flow-ers to brighten your home; they can also provide healthy exercise for the body and comfort for your soul. If approached properly, gardening can be an inexpensive hobby that gives more than it takes. However, since a suc-cessful garden is a lot more fun to work in than one that isn’t doing so well, here are some helpful tips to get new growers off to a good start:

“a successful garden Is a lot more fun to work In than one

that Isn’t doIng so well.”

ONE Plants need a planTake a look at your potential garden spaces. Well-lit spare rooms can become homes to indoor hydro-ponic systems, patios make ideal locations for container gardens, sections of back lawns can be transformed into productive plots and every balcony and windowsill can become an oasis of thriving greenery. Whatever the location, though, every garden space needs both light and water to thrive—so make sure your plans include ways to supply these needs.

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“If you’re usIng an artIfIcIal lIght source, remember that lIght

dIsperses exponentIally over dIstance so plants twIce as far away only receIve a quarter of the lIght.”

two Plants need lightSelect an area that gets enough light for the plants you intend to grow. To do this, monitor the amount of sunlight that the space receives throughout an entire day, preferably during the growing season. Make note of how many hours of full and partial light the plants will receive. Greenhouses and indoor gardens will also require additional lighting such as high intensity discharge (HID) lamps or fluores-cent T5s. Because it adapts so well to a wide variety of lighting conditions, the human eye has trouble discerning the actual magnitude of available light, but with an inexpensive light meter empirical read-ings can be recorded quickly and easily. If you’re using an artificial light source, remember that light disperses exponentially over distance so plants twice as far away only receive a quarter of the light. With natural sunlight height is much less of a factor because of the intensity and amount of available light, but shadows become more important since the light source moves over the course of the day.

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FIVEPlants need nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (NPK) and moreMix up a batch of the following and apply at 3.78 L per 3-m by 3-m area:

• 16 parts seed meal or alfalfa pellets (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium)

• Four parts bone meal, rock phos-phate or guano (phosphorus)

• Four parts kelp meal (many micronutrients)

• Two parts dolomitic lime (calcium, magnesium)

• One part agricultural lime (calcium)

• One part gypsum (calcium, sulfur)

Reapply at 0.9 L per 3-m by 3-m area. area every couple of months throughout the growing season.

ThreePlants need waterYou might be able to supply a small indoor or windowsill garden with just a watering can, but for a large container garden or an outdoor soil garden of any size you should consider adding a drip system—or at the very least make sure your garden hose will reach far enough to meet your needs. Drip systems allow water to be released slowly over time in specific areas and can be a much more efficient use of water than irrigation rows or sprinkler systems. Drip systems are particularly advantageous in container gardens. Regardless of how the plants are watered, however, it is important that the garden has sufficient drainage and that slight watering mishaps will not cause unintended damage to floors or muddy puddles in foot paths.

FourPlants need a good homeOnce your space has been selected, it must be prepared. A simple hand drawn map can be a good organ-isational tool in figuring out your layout. Empty pots can be arranged and rearranged in a space a lot easier than full ones, so take advan-tage and find a configuration that takes into account lighting, watering and access and is pleasing to the eye as well.Indoor spaces should be cleared of

clutter and surfaces protected from drips and spills. Keep in mind that neither carpeting nor hardwood floors tolerate spills well and both can be easily ruined. Outdoor spaces should be cleared of debris and any large unwanted plants removed. If the area has never been worked, then you will likely have to dig and turn it to level it out. Covering the area with a thick layer of organic mulch and compost, preferably over a layer of newspaper (a good way to recycle!) will give you the benefits of weed control without exposing the area to herbicides or your hands to excessive blisters.

ten tips

“It Is easy to get carrIed away In the sprIng and start off by plantIng somethIng In

every spare nook and cranny.”

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SIXPlants need the right homeLook at plants that do well in gardens in your area—nearby gardeners are often great sources for information and if they save seeds they can also be a source of open-pollinated cultivars. Check the available sunlight hours in your space and compare them to the listed requirements of prospec-tive seeds and plants. Plants not normally grown locally can sometimes be successfully cultivated in greenhouses and indoor gardens, but for begin-ning gardeners, stick with plants suited for your zone.

SEVENPlants can often make more plantsSeeds from heirloom and open-pollinated cultivars can be saved and even many hybrid varieties can be reproduced vegetatively from cuttings. Many plants produce pods with seeds that only need to be collected and dried to be used the following year. Some seeds—like toma-toes—require fermentation or some other treatment to render them viable, but this is often easily done. Check the specifics of each plant to find out how they are propagated. Purchased seeds tend to come in larger quantities than one gardener can use and swapping leftover seeds can be a cost-effective way to grow additional varieties without additional expense.

EIGHTBaby plants need special careNewly sprouted plants are vulner-able to a variety of perils. Environ-mental changes, water deficiencies and physical abuse can quickly kill tender sprouts before they can become established. For plants that tolerate transplanting well, starting sprouts indoors can give them a sheltered environment and a way for gardeners to get a start on spring planting even before the last frost.Plants started indoors should be hardened by gradually exposing them to their new environmental conditions. This is done by moving them to less sheltered locations in steps, or by introducing them to the new location for first a few and then several hours a day, over a period of a week or so. Plants moved from a sheltered indoor environment to the harsher conditions outdoors without hardening may die from shock, so care must be taken to allow them to get used to their new conditions gradually.

“look at plants that do well In gardens In your area—nearby gardeners are

often great sources for InformatIon and If they save seeds they can also be a

source of open-pollInated cultIvars.”

ten tips

50 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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veggies and flowers can cause the most reserved and stable among us to succumb to a slight case of gardening mania! When you’re just getting underway, exercise restraint and only start as many plants as you are honestly willing to see through the growing season. Twenty well-tended plants will produce much more than 40 that get ignored once the initial thrill wanes. Start small and care for your plants—learn their likes and dislikes. If all goes well, plant a bigger garden next year. If it doesn’t, try to find out why by learning more about gardening and then try again.Many homegrown vegetables are

not only cheaper to grow than to

“there Is a kInd of quIet prIde that comes from a well-tended garden and you’ll

certaInly enjoy eatIng fresh produce that can go from lIvIng plants to the table In

mInutes Instead of weeks.”

NINEPlants make compost, and compost makes plantsGreen waste ingredients are a resource that can be made into valuable compost without incur-ring shipping costs or middleman markups.A pile of garden trimmings

will eventually break down first into compost and then later into humus. To speed the process up substantially, use approximately equal portions greens and browns. Greens—such as alfalfa hay and grass clippings—have a low carbon-to-nitrogen ratio: only about 20 to one. Browns—like leaves, cardboard and straw—have much higher ratios: from 40 to one up to 100 to one, or more. Since the ideal ratio for composting is around 30 to one, equal parts 20 to one material and 40 to one material will even each other out to the desired level. Stacked in a 0.9-m by 0.9-m pile, watered to the consistency of a wrung-out sponge, the centre of the material should start to heat up and become a hot compost pile. Hot compost piles break down plant material in a matter of several weeks and can reach temperatures of 54.4 to 71.1°C. If the compost pile doesn’t seem like it’s heating up, try stirring and turning the pile. Even if it doesn’t heat up, it will still make cold compost, which will just take a matter of months instead of weeks.

TENPlants prefer patient perseveranceIt is easy to get carried away in the spring and start off by planting something in every spare nook and cranny. The weather is nice, excitement is in the air and dreams of massive harvests of fresh

ten tips

buy, but are also better tasting, too—the key to cost-effective gardening is to invest more knowledge and sweat into your garden than money.

There is a kind of quiet pride that comes from a well-tended garden and you’ll certainly enjoy eating fresh produce that can go from living plants to the table in minutes instead of weeks. For those with enough patience and determination, the rewards of a successful garden can fill both bellies and hearts. Every successful gardener once grew their first plant—I cannot encourage you strongly enough to try it for yourself!

52 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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54 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

DO YOU KNOW?

1.

5.

3. 4.

Despite claims that applying chemi-cals or activators to the compost pile speeds up the decomposition process, they are not necessary. Simply adding

some finished compost into the newly formed com-post pile serves as an activator to get things started.

Citric acid may be weak, but the citric acid in a lemon is strong enough to power a clock. Those LED clocks plugged into a lemon at children’s science fairs are powered princi-pally by citric acid reacting with the metal in the wires to create a crude battery.

2.

Aeroponics is an innovative growing method that makes optimal use of its air-mist environment. There is no growing medium; instead, plants are grown in a closed or semi-closed environment where their roots and lower stems are sprayed with a nutrient-water solution.

Some disease spores can survive for years inside old plant debris, while insect eggs may make the mate-rial a new source of infes-tations for many months to come. For this reason composting old plant material and growing media inside the growing area is not a good idea.

Drip systems allow water to be released slowly over time in specific areas and can be a much more efficient use of water than irrigation rows or sprinkler systems.

Page 56: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

In the late ‘60s, before Noel Arrold became Dr. Noel Arrold, he acquired a grant while studying microbiology at the University of Sydney to examine the scientific principles behind cultivating mushrooms. After tweaking the conditions, he created the perfect damp growing environment to cultivate the spawn that produces top-notch fungi. In 1987, Noel decided to move to commercial mushroom farming after the perfect opportunity arose in the form of a subterranean railway tunnel. In 1866, a single-line tunnel linked Mittagong and Bowral

in New South Wales Southern Highlands. Eventually proving itself outdated, a new double-line track was constructed in 1919 and the tunnel stood unoccupied until the ‘50s when it was converted into Australia’s first underground commercial mushroom farm.In the 1980s, Noel was producing spawn in his laboratory

on the outskirts of Mittagong for commercial mushroom growers, but when he discovered that Li-Sun Exotic

GrOWerS KNOW

Raquel Neofit, on behalf of Maximum Yield, recently sat down with Dr. Noel Arrold from Li-Sun Exotic Mushrooms to learn all about Australia’s subterranean world of mushroom farming.

Mushrooms had become available and the dark and damp tunnel was part of the deal, he decided it was time to venture into the world of growing. Soon after he moved into the unknown field of exotic fungi.Noel was the first mushroom grower in Australia to produce

fresh shiitake mushrooms. With Asian cooking on the rise in Australia, branching into Asian fungi delicacies was a smart move and you are likely to find Li-Sun Exotic Mushrooms in many well-known restaurants along the east coast. Li-Sun produces 1,500 kg of exotic mushrooms each week

in this 650-m tunnel, which resembles the naturally occurring conditions of the forests in China, Japan and Korea—damp, dimly lit and cool. Constructed from limestone and Bowral red brick, only half of the tunnel’s area was in use when Noel moved in. He concreted in the remaining area and quickly increased the tunnel’s output. Noel might be leading the way in growing exotic

mushrooms in Australia, but he’s a scientist at heart. Over

The

Damp, dark worldof underground

mushroom production

By Raquel NeofitThe

Damp, dark worldof underground

mushroom production

56 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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the years, he has discovered new methods for cultivating the spawn of certain species of exotic mushrooms and invested in a climate-controlled cropping room that offers better growing conditions to grow varieties like coloured oyster, enoki, king brown and chestnut.Here’s what he had to say about Australia’s

subterranean world of mushroom farming.

Raquel Neofit: How do your mushrooms start out before being transferred to the tunnel?Noel Arrold: Our mushrooms are produced by mixing sawdust, lime, bran and moisture together, filling it into a plastic bag and then sterilising the bag at 121°C.The mushroom growing process begins with a spawn run.

If you take a standard brown mushroom and stand it on its end on a piece of paper overnight, spores or seeds will drop out of it and form a spore print. Outside they would then get carried off by the wind and germinated. Inside you use something like boiled potato extract mixed with an agar substance so the spore print has something to cling to. We also use grains; the spawn grows all around the grain and then you have a carrier. As it grows it produces thin, cotton-like strands and this is what we call the spawn-run phase.

RN: What are the conditions like in the tunnel?NA: Like the cool climate forests in Asia where these mushrooms grow naturally on dead trees. The temperature is 16°C and the humidity is 80% or more.

RN: Do you have temperature controls? NA: We have a small hot water boiler at the northern end of the tunnel, which is 12°C in winter. The rest of the tunnel is 16°C or more year round.

RN: What do you grow your mushrooms in?NA: Shiitake, enoki, wood ear, king brown, chesnut and nameko grow on sawdust blocks, oyster and shimejii are grown on pasteurized wheat straw.

RN: What does it take to care for a crop of mushrooms?NA: Good spawn, temperature control during the spawn run and avoiding pests and disease. We don’t get a lot of pests,

but if we do we throw out the entire bag. In natural growing conditions the mushrooms grow closely side by side in the forest, so there isn’t a lot of room for pests to get at them. The only bug we sometimes see is the manure fly that attacks

all rotting material, but we don’t use or believe in using pesticides, we just throw the batch out and start again. Sometimes we can encounter different moulds—red or green—but they don’t affect the crop in any way.

RN: Where do you see the future of mushroom growing in Australia going?NA: Expanding because of the influence of cooking shows like MasterChef and My Kitchen Rules.

RN: And finally, do you have any tips for readers who might like to grow mushrooms at home?NA: Oyster and shimejii can be grown easily at home but you need to buy the spawn. Other species are harder to grow as the substance needs to be sterilised.

A final interesting fact from Dr. Arrold—shiitake mushrooms have been grown in China since the 1100s and back then the Chinese would rub the blocks of green mould on cuts to help the healing process, effectively using the first penicillin before it was even discovered.

“ the mushrooms grow closely side by side in the forest, so there isn’t a lot of room for pests to get at them.”

“with asian cooking on the rise in australia, branching

into asian fungi delicacies was a smart move.”

Exotic mushrooms growing in Australia. photos submitted

57Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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compAny: Hyalite Hydroponicsowner: greg pano locAtion: unit 4/19 Jersey road,

bayswater, Victoria 3153 (six other stores across Australia)pHone: (03) 9720 1946emAil: [email protected]: hyalite.com.au

the bayswater location of Hyalite Hydroponics is a one-stop hydroponic superstore where growers can find everything they need. the store has also become a community hub where gardeners come to share their growing techniques, information and knowledge.

At A glAnce

Will Noe

58 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

talking shop

Page 59: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

Hyalite Hydroponics in Bayswater, Victoria is a central hub of hydroponic equipment, feeding programs, educa-tion, knowledge and practical advice.Our store manager, Will Noe, has been

servicing the hydroponics industry for more than seven years, but his green thumb has been with him for a life-time—just try leaving without a bucket load of new knowledge and advice on all matters gardening related. With more than 370 sq. m of floor space and a fully-loaded gardening inventory, Will can customise a hydroponic system specifically designed to fit your personal growing space and complete the pack-age with a yield-driven feeding program and step-by-step instructions to make any installation a breeze. He’ll even teach you the secrets behind maximis-ing yield from your first harvest!Hyalite Bayswater is a one-stop hydro-

ponic superstore that’s managed to retain a general-store atmosphere, stocking cutting-edge products from industry leaders like Nutrifield, Lucious, Ezi Air, Mountain Air, Canna, House and Garden, Grotek, Dutch Master, Bloem, Sun Master and GE. Will believes they’ve created a niche in

the hydroponic retail market because they keep things simple for gardeners. “Our greatest assets are our customers and we respect their ideas and opin-ions,” he says. “We offer free samples on new products so customers can guide us with their feedback—we only sell what works—and if it hasn’t been proven to work then we don’t sell it!”

Many of Hyalite's high-performance nutrient programs are recommended by our loyal customers. One example is the Nutrifield range, which is Hyalite's number-one selling range of hydroponic nutrient systems and a range the store stands behind 100%. “Our customers are getting amaz-ing results using Nutrifield products and we strongly recommend them to our organic gardeners,” Will says. “It’s developed from pharmaceutical grade compounds and their range of additives is derived from natural and organic sources.” Will thrives on inspiring his customers

to discover the great growing potential they hold and loves the fact that he’s on a first-name basis with most of their loyal customers—Hyalite has evolved into a community hub where gardeners come to share their growing tech-niques, information and knowledge. The future of the hydroponic industry

has much more in store than anyone can imagine and the company plans to stay up-to-date with everything the industry has to offer. As Hyalite contin-ues to grow and expand, we will con-tinue to appreciate the opinions and

feedback of our loyal growers and be available to offer advice and guidance in your hydroponic gardening adventures.Will and his team are veterans in the

art and science of pushing a plant beyond its limits. So pop in with all your hydroponic conundrums and Hyalite Bayswater’s winning team will guide you in the right direction for maximum yields and ultimate growth outcomes. Hyalite Hydroponics has been proudly

serving the Australian market for 14 years; with seven locations throughout Australia and the flexibility of an easy-to-use online store, we keep hours to suit everyone’s hydroponic shopping needs. Our Bayswater store is open six days

a week from Monday to Saturday and Will, along with his dedicated team, are readily available to answer all your hydroponic gardening questions and help you plan your next set-up or feeding program. Just bring along the dimensions and a drawing of your growing area and we’ll do the rest! And, as the largest retail group in Australia, Hyalite can ensure competitive prices combined with excellent service.Shop online or browse our catalogue

at hyalite.com.au

hIs customers to dIscover the great growIng potentIal they hold. hyalIte has evolved Into

a communIty hub where gardeners come to share theIr growIng technIques, InformatIon and knowledge.”

“wIll thrIves on InspIrIng

59Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

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60 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores are listed alphabetically by city in each state.

AUSTRALIA

ACTSouth Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609(02) 6239 2598

South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court, Belconnen ACT 2617(02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALESABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259(61) 2 4393 3131

ASE HydroponicsFactory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710

Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478(02) 6686 7321

Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552

Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264(02) 4973 5779

Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450(02) 6651 9992Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist

42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830(02) 6885 1616Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826

Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795(02) 6337 1485

Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536(02) 4472 7165

Felanza - Hydroponics140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205(02) 9556 1494

General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Rd., Blacktown NSW 9676(02) 9676 8682

Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000

Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264(02) 4973 5179

Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750(02) 4732 2870

Hobby Grow 6/46 Through Street, South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069

Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216(02) 9567 8841

Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400

Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199

Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845

Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121(02) 9869 3011

Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261(02) 4334 6955

Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287(02) 4965 6595

Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489

Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707

Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307

Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700

Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911

Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928

Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511

Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700

International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500

Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mul-lumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928

Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599

Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 (02) 4423 3224

Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 (02) 4323 1599

Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 (02) 4423 0599

Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 (02) 6581 1272

Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 (02) 9636 7023

Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 (02) 9546 8642

Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 (02) 9568 2900

Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 (02) 9604 0469

Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 (07) 5524 8588

Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 (02) 6550 0221

Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 (02) 4028 6388

Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 1 800 661 475

Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 (02) 4225 8773

NORTHERN TERRITORYKatherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 (08) 8972 1730

QUEENSLANDA Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322

Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222

Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777

Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551

D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501Eye Lighting Australia Pty LtdPO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206H2 Gro Pty Ltd 2 Sonia Crt., Raceview QLD 4305 (07) 3294 3253 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt., Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068J&K Hydroponics 387 Progress RdWacol QLD 4076+61 (07) 3271 6210KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957Northern Hydroponics383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road,Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250Slacks Creek Hydroponics#13/22 Allgas St.Slacks Creek QLD 4217(07) 3299 1397Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 (07) 3848 5288Sunstate Hydroponics67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 (07) 5479 1011The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588

Tumbling Waters Hydroponics2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

SOUTH AUSTRALIA------------------------------------------

Advanced Garden SuppliesAdvanced Garden Supplies

Advanced Garden Supplies3/8 Bredbo St

Lonsdale S.A. 5160(08) 8382 1191

------------------------------------------Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777Greener than Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455

Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222

Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461

Highland Grow & Flow 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455

Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000

Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880

Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000

Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022

Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200

Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323

Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463

Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788

Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011

Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813

New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100

Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008

Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133

Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172

Professional Hydroponics113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

Seaton Hydroponics129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08) 82682636

Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042

South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380

State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991

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61Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores are listed alphabetically by city in each state.

Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287Urban Grow Solutions1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIAAdvanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588Aqua HydroponicsRear 45 Burnett St.New Norfolk Tas 7140(03) 6294 9233Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177

------------------------------------------

Green Acres Hydroponics 46-48 Bingalong Road, Mornington, TAS 7018

(03) 6245 [email protected]

------------------------------------------Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088Hydroponics Systems131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411Organic Garden Supplies 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

VICTORIAAAA Lush Hydroponics 2-4 The Arcade, Junction Village, Melbourne Vic 3972

Albury Hydroponics/ Cappers Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 61 (02) 6024 4029All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070

Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584Bayside Hydroponics 5/9 Rutherford RoadSeaford, VIC 3198(03) 9775 0495Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776Discount Hydroponics 18 Princes Hwy.Doveton VIC 3177(03) 9792 2966Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425------------------------------------------

Growlush Australia830-850 Princes Highway,

Springvale, Vic, 3171(03) 9546 9688

www.growlush.com ------------------------------------------Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372

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Hydroware1/54 Lara Way,

Campbellfield, Vic, 3061(03) 9357 8805

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Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452

Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946

Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510

Hydroponic Central110 Dynon RoadWest Melbourne Vic. 3003(03) 9376 0447

Indoor Garden Company29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699

Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515

JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399

Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861

Just Hydroponics Hoppers Crossing 3/8 Motto CourtHoppers Crossing, 3029 (03) 8742 2830

Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140

Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055

Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256

Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300

One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177

Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143

Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575

Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083

Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433

Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344

Simply Hydroponics Epping 10 Dilop Drive, Epping Vic 3076 (03) 9408 4677

Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730

Simply Hydroponics - PakenhamFactory 6/3-11 Bate Close Pakenham, Victoria 3810 (03) 5940 9047

Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422

Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600

The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662

Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIAAccent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355

Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888

Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222

Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020

Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310

Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd., Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388

Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321

Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220

Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368

Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901

Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188

Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757

Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028

Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016

Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155

One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000

Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211

Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245

Richo’s 4 HydroUnit 7/22 Franklin Lane, Joondalup, WA 6027(08) 9301 4462

Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544

The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044

The Great IndoorsUnit 1/25 Gillam Dr.Kelmscott WA 6111(08) 9495 2815

Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400

The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473

The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495

The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232

Tru Bloomin Hydroponics7/36 Port Kembla Dr.Bibra Lake, WA 6163(08) 9434 5118

Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALANDEasy Grow New Lynn3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland (09) 827 0883

Easy Grow Manukau15/69 Wiri Station Road,Manukau, Auckland (09) 263 7560

Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth (06) 758 6661

Otaki Hydroponics1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki (06) 364 2206

House of Hydro221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington

Pet and Garden10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch (03) 377 2507

Grow and Brew14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland (09) 426 2095

Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui (07) 575 4090

Switched on GardenerNumber 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09) 438 0223

Switched on GardenerUnit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210

Switched on GardenerUnit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296

Switched on GardenerNumber 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351

Switched on GardenerNumber 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885

Switched on GardenerNumber 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265

Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106

Switched on GardenerNumber 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444

Switched on GardenerNumber 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336

Switched on GardenerNumber 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840

Switched on GardenerNumber 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913

Switched on GardenerNumber 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769

Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937

Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682

Switched on GardenerNumber 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980

Page 62: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

OrganOleptic Quality—Which nutrients cOntribute tO gOOd taste?Providing an optimal supply of all the nutrients plants require is the best way to ensure good flavour. This article covers one of the most crucial elements in deciding how your crops will taste—sulfur—and how to deliver it to your plants.

battle Of the bugs: a guide tO beneficial insectsWe take a look at one environmentally friendly weapon in the anti-pest arsenal—beneficial bugs—why growers should consider using these biological control methods in their gardens and which bugs to use against particular pest problems.

physiOlOgical disOrders Of indOOr gardensIndoor gardening offers to plants conditions that are fully under the gardener's control, so when physiological disorders strike, they can seem strange, mysterious and even sinister. This articles outlines the signs and symptoms of different physiological problems, including issues specific to indoor gardens.

62 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

COMING UP ON THE WEB

CoMing Up inNovember/December

newse stay in the KnOW With MaxiMuM yield’s e-neWsEvery month Maximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup

get free Vip passes tO the lOng beach expOThere is only one more stop on the 2013 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Grow Like a Pro expo tour. So, be sure to plan your next vacation to Long Beach, California, on October 26 to 27. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, this show will offer something for everyone. Stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com where you'll soon be able to download and print free passes to Sunday's public day.

Meet the teaMThroughout 2013 there have been a few changes at the Maximum Yield office, includ-ing the addition of some great people to the team. To learn more about our current roster, check out maximumyield.com/about-us

free digital subscriptiOnreceive Maximum Yield free to your inbox every month. Simply subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

authOr archiVesHas a particular Maximum Yield contributor caught your eye recently? Look them up using our online author archives. Simply visit maximumyield.com/resources/author-archive

e-neWs archiVesevery month, Maximum Yield sends out an electronic newsletter containing indoor gardening industry tidbits to our followers. We also keep all of that information posted on enews.maximumyield.com in case you ever miss something.

cOMpatible With hand-held deVicesNo matter which smartphone or tablet you own, load-ing up your digital copies of Maximum Yield will now be possible thanks to multiple software upgrades and improvements. readers can now view their digi-tal copies of Maximum Yield in even more places!

asK an expert Maximum Yield’s resident experts are ready to answer your modern gardening questions. email [email protected] or fill out the Ask the experts form on maximumyield.com

scan itConnect to maximumyield.com instantly from your smartphone with our Quick response (Qr) Code found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield.

Page 63: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

63Maximum Yield | September/October 2013

Page 64: Maximum Yield NZ Sept/Oct 2013

64 Maximum Yield | September/October 2013