maximum yield nz march/april 2014

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New Zealand March/April 2014

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TACOMAApril 5-6

NOVIMAY 31 - JUNE 1

SAN FRANJUlY 26-27

BOSTONoctobEr 18-19

2014 INDOOR GARDENING EXPO TOUR

SOFT WaTer’Snotthathard!

plUSLearning to Garden

Taking Plant CuttingsSupplementing CO2

2 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014

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24 30 34 40 50

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CONTENTSMarch/April 2014

6 From the Editor

8 Letters to the Editor

12 Ask the Experts

14 Max Facts

20 Product Spotlight

38 Growers Know

24 Learn to Garden and Change the World: Growing Systems for Beginners by Matt Geschke

30 Ladybirds 101: Hydroponic Gardeners’ Best Friends by Susan Eitel

34 A Simple Guide to Taking Plant Clippings by Matt LeBannister

40 Soft Water’s Not That Hard! by Jennifer Casey

53 Do You Know

54 You Tell Us

56 Talking Shop

58 Max Mart

59 Distributors

62 Coming up Next Issue

62 MaximumYield.com

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

48 Cheap and Easy Starts: How to Germinate Seeds at Home by Heather Roades

50 That Natural Air Additive: CO2 Enrichment for Indoor Gardening by Glen Babcock

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Susan Eitel has a degree in landscape horticulture from Humber College in Toronto. She has worked in the hydroponics industry for more than 25 years, which has proved invaluable over the years. Susan has always been interested in benefi cial insects and integrated pest management. She currently lives in the Niagara area with her beloved husband and dog.

Glen Babcock is the owner of Garden City Fungi and the founder of ExHale Homegrown CO2. Glen has been involved in agriculture his entire life. Glen graduated from the University of Montana with a degree in forestry and has been a mycologist for more than 23 years. His research has been published in scientifi c journals worldwide.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Jennifer Casey loves her two dogs, her husband, the amazing garden he grows and living in the country—in that order. Crafting, reading and cooking from the garden are her favourite ways to spend her time.

Matt Geschke has a B.S. in biology from Baldwin Wallace College. He also completed an environmental geology degree from the University of Akron and received his M.S. in 2002. Matt is an adjunct professor at Kent State University.

Raquel Neofi t is a freelance writer for the horticulture, travel and lifestyle industries. She has a background in business and radio, and is an avid believer that hydroponics is way of the future. Follow Raquel’s writing on her blog, Black Thumbs Guide to Growing Green—the misadventures of the vertical herb gardening movement—and My Food Story on Facebook.

Australia’s extreme temperatures this summer have led to more gardeners wanting to take control of their growing environments. Now is the perfect opportunity to spend more time in your indoor gardens and greenhouses. This issue of Maximum Yield has all sorts of handy tricks you can apply to your gardens, from a simple guide to taking plant cuttings, to supplementing your CO2, to adding predatory ladybirds to help control pests. We also take a look at the differences between soft and hard water to ensure your plants don’t just survive, but thrive. To round off this issue we’ve included an interview with Tasmanian grower Rodney Dunn and

a feature on The Grow Shop, a retail store in New South Wales. Add some new products from our product profile section to the mix, along with a Q&A with the owners of TNB Naturals, and you are ready to go!It’s a bit of a journey, but we would like to invite you all to come and experience one or all

of our 2014 Coast to Coast Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expos in the United States: Tacoma, Washington (April 5 to 6); Novi, Michigan (May 31 to June 1); San Francisco, California (July 26 to 27) or Boston, Massachusetts (October 18 to 19). Exhibitors from Australia and around the world will be showcasing the latest products and technologies. Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for special accommodation rates and free VIP tickets. We hope to see you there!Thank you to all who have entered our I’m a Fan contest. We have enjoyed what our readers

have had to say and we know the winners have loved spending their prizes at their favorite retail shops. You can win, too. Tell us how much you enjoy reading Maximum Yield by going to maximumyield.com/features/contests/i-m-a-fan or emailing [email protected] and you'll be entered to win monthly $100 cash prizes to spend at your local grow store. We will choose a new winner every month and a grand prize winner will be drawn in December to receive $1,000 to spend at the indoor garden shop of their choice.


FROM THE EDITOR | lINDA jESSON

Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor

cOnTRibuTORs

http://www.grotek.com

Maximum Yield's Youngest FanDarcie and her daughter Anna, from British Columbia, Canada, are the 12th winners of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest. Darcie says, “I started gardening because my three-year-old daughter

wanted to grow food and she was so dedicated to her garden all summer. She was heartbroken that the garden would be done after the fall harvest so we picked up your magazine at our plant shop and now she is growing tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, strawberries, dragon fruit, lemon trees and orange trees in our basement. Thank you for all of the wonderful information, it has helped keep her hobby going year-round.”

Editor’s Note: Thank you for the great response, Darcie. We hope you and Anna enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, TLC Hydroponics and Garden Supply.

Growing With Maximum Yield John Brady from Florida, United States, is the 13th

winner of Maxi-mum Yield’s I’m a fan Contest. John says, “I have been a fan of Max Yield since it was nothing more than a few

pages per issue. Since then, Max Yield has become the industry standard for information and the logical comparison to which all are held up to. Best of all, it is still free. I keep my issues as a ref-erence for any and all problems or new endeavours. The many expos I have been fortunate to attend are always a highlight of the year.”

Editor’s Note: Thank you, John. We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certifi-cate at Simply Hydroponics.

Anna

John Brady

I’m a Fan Grand Prize WinnerCongratulations to our 2013 Maximum Yield I’m a Fan Grand Prize Winner. Steven R. Van Vranken has received a grand prize of $1,000 to be spent at his favourite in-door gardening shop, Indoor Garden Depot in Vancouver, Washington, United States. Steven says, “I have post-traumatic stress disorder, so I don’t get out much, but when I do I find my way to the grow store and when there’s a new magazine available, it makes my day. I can’t believe it’s free. Thank you.”

Editor’s Note: Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us, Steven. We’re happy to have you as a fan. We hope you enjoy the new growing system you plan to obtain this year.

Constantly ResearchingThe reason I love Maximum Yield is be-cause you guys are constantly researching new ideas and products, basically putting the latest in technology at our fingertips! You guys have started a movement, and I’ll follow for life.Jason G., via email

Learning a Lot Only mag I read anymore. Learn a lot of what I know from there. Very informative ar-ticles good for newbies and novices alike.@abel49er21, via Twitter

Keeping Ahead of the Curve I enjoy reading Maximum Yield because it is so informative. I like the how-to articles and being able to see the new gear. It keeps me ahead of everyone else. Thanks again!Brandon Fiore, via email

Crazy Veggie GrowingThe craziest thing I have ever grown was kohlrabi, on a vertical soil and pot grow within a nylon net attached to the southern-facing side of my home. One of my neighbours commented that it looked as though a band of green aliens had at-tached themselves to my house.Joe O'Neal, via email

Editor's Note: Joe was responding to Maximum Yield’s eNews question of the month for January. Subscribe to this online newsletter by going to maximumyield.com and clicking on the Features tab.


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LETTERs TO THE EDITOR VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 6

March/April 2014

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

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No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.The views expressed by columnists are personal opinions and do not

necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the editor.Publication Agreement Number 40739092

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A completely sealed growth chamber (enclosed climate agriculture) can be a difficult environment to maintain because a balance between light, heat, CO2 and humidity must be met while the air is continually recircu-lated instead of exchanged with the outside environment. Generally, it takes a lot of equipment to maintain all these plant growth variables at the same time. CO2 enrichment to levels as high as 1,000 to 1,500 ppm is used in

growth chambers to help boost plant growth (note, higher levels can become toxic to plants). Often, compressed CO2 cylinders are used as a source since burners generate a lot of heat. The reason why most growing environments, including growth chambers and greenhouses, are vented is to not only replenish the CO2 plants take up, but to also remove heat buildup and water vapour. Plants release large amounts of water vapour into the air when they transpire, which rapidly increases the humidity (particularly under warm growing conditions). High humidity has negative effects on plant growth. If the plants can’t tran-spire due to high humidity, the flow of nutrients (particularly calcium from the roots to the leaves) is severely restricted and the plant growth stagnates. High humidity also allows for the growth of fungal spores and bacterial pathogens. So, in order to keep the heat and humidity down, moist air is vented out and replaced with drier air, often at a rate of one complete air exchange per minute. If venting and air exchange are not used in an enclosed environment,

heat and humidity must be controlled in other ways. It is possible to use large dehumidification units to remove water vapour and air condition-ers to control heat; however, all must be run at once to maintain the required humidity levels (50 to 67% for most plants). So, a completely enclosed growing chamber requires heat and water

vapour removal from the air, as well as lighting and CO2 enrichment at the correct level to maintain balanced growth. In theory, if all these parameters are met, the enclosed environment can be run with no vent-ing. There are certain gases, such as ethylene, that might still build up in a tightly sealed room, so sources of this and any other unwanted gases need to be carefully checked for.

I’ve read a lot of books and have been through trial and error, and I have been asked repeatedly about inducing CO2 into a sealed (air tight) growroom. With that being said, I have yet to figure it out completely. Mainly, is it necessary to have a vent in a sealed growroom if CO2 is kept at a consistent level with monitors?

Thanks, Terry Haight, Jr.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Dr. Lynette Morgan


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carnivorous plants rare in New Zealand Carnivorous plants have long held a fascination for people from all walks of life—and for good reason. With their bizarre and fantastical shapes, they lure and trap wayward insects and other animals, benefiting from the digested remains. But they are not just popular for their strange insect-eating habits—they are rapidly gaining popularity due to their beauty. Growing carnivorous plants in New Zealand need not be a challenge. With careful insight into their specific cultivation requirements, anyone can have a gorgeous collection of these plants to call their own—on windowsills, in greenhouses, bog gardens and in containers on patios. Of the 16 genera of carnivorous plants found worldwide, New Zealand only has representatives from the two most common genera. From these two genera there are 12 species in total thought to be native. They are Drosera, or the sundews, with seven species and Utricularia, or the bladderworts, with five species. (Source: nzcps.co.nz)

Going bananasAustralia’s banana industry has returned to pre-Cyclone Yasi levels of economic activity, making an annual economic contribution of about $1.1 billion and generating almost 10,000 full-time jobs, according to new industry research. Research shows the banana industry has an estimated farm gate gross production value of $480 million annually. This compares with $450 million in 2010, the year before Tropical Cyclone Yasi destroyed about 80% of Australia’s banana crop in February 2011. Other figures show Australia is producing 341,000 tonnes of bananas each year, based on production in 2013, up from 310,000 tonnes in the pre-Cyclone Yasi 2010 financial year. There are no exports of bananas because the cost of production in Australia is higher than many other banana-producing countries, such as the Philippines and South American countries. There have also not been any imports into Australia due to quarantine risks.(Source: abgc.org.au)

top picks for AquaponicsTilapia is the most common fish to be used in aquaponics systems overseas, although the use of tilapia in

Australia is prohibited due to their ability to overtake and dominate local waterways. Barramundi, silver perch, trout, golden perch, catfish, Murray cod, jade perch, Australian bass, black bream, eels and yabbies are suited

to the climate in Australia, and are legal to own and grow using aquaponics. Contact your local government to be certain. As for which plants to try, there have been many studies on what can be grown in aquaponics, including

leafy green vegetables, vine plants, fruit and fruit trees, flowers and fodder. The cost and turnover time of each crop varies dramatically, with leafy greens produced in a few months, and root-based plants and fruit trees taking

considerably longer.(Source: aquaponics.com.au)


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MAX FACTS GrOwiNG NEwS, TipS ANd TriviA

MAXFACTS GROWING TIPS, NeWS AND TRIVIA

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Apple Growers on targetNew Zealand apple growers will probably reach $1 billion in exports ahead of their

10-year 2022 target as the industry benefits from higher productivity and rising prices. The apple industry, New Zealand’s second-largest fresh

fruit export after kiwifruit, has raised export prices to offset the negative impact of a higher New Zealand dollar on returns,

says Gary Jones, business development manager at grower organisation Pipfruit New Zealand. Better ac-

cess to seasonal staff through a 2008 government scheme has helped orchard owners raise produc-tion. New Zealand’s apple industry accounts for a quarter of the southern hemisphere’s fresh apple exports. New Zealand apples sell for a premium over rivals by as much as 20% and sales are benefiting from increased affluence in Asia and better access to markets, Gary says.(Source: tvnz.co.nz)

Kangaroo paws The colour and form of kangaroo paws make them one of the most rewarding Australian native plants for the home garden. Kangaroo paws are also great cut flowers and are exported to many parts of the globe. They occur naturally only in the southwest. The overall colour of the flowers, which varies among species, is influenced by fine, coloured hairs that cover the flowers and, sometimes, part of the stalk. The flowers appear over spring and summer and are pollinated by birds. The long flower stalks usually rise above the undergrowth and advertise the presence of nectar in the flowers. The shape of the flowers and the position of the pollen-bearing anthers allow pollen to be deposited on the head of feeding birds. Pollen is transferred from flower to flower as the birds feed. Kangaroo paws generally grow best in well-drained soils in sunny positions. (Source: anbg.gov.au)

craft beer brewers tap into MelonsWatermelon lovers will soon have an interesting new way to enjoy the fruit. A Melbourne micro-brewery has developed a German-style wheat beer that features watermelon as the star ingredient. Owner Josh Uljans says many of the melons needed for the craft brew will be sourced from the Northern Territory. “We put around 200 kg of watermelon in each batch, so we need a fairly reasonable and steady supply,” he says. “I've heard it’s a great growing district for melons, particularly over the winter months. The supplies down south dry up over that period because it is a little bit too cold down here so we would like to get some from up north.” Josh says finding the perfect type of melon is a critical part of the beer making process. “A good brewing watermelon is one that has a lot of juice and is nice and fresh,” he says. (Source: abc.net.au)


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Hybrid X System Excels in World’s Hottest cityAdelaide was named the hottest city on earth with temperatures exceeding 46°C in January. The Hybrid X greenhouse in the North of Adelaide excelled in the high temperatures. The Hybrid X system is a newly developed greenhouse that uses a traditional pad wall system in the gable wall, coupled with a number of highly efficient eC fans to force cool air into the greenhouse and a number of double tubes under the grow gutters. The system is also able to recirculate air within the greenhouse because of the Airco corridor system. The Hybrid X greenhouse also operates using full venting in the roof, meaning the fans can be switched off when not required. The system is ideal for areas of high temperature and low humidity. The Hybrid X greenhouse is also ideal for opposite conditions in spring and autumn with low temperature and high humidity.(Source: fabergreenhouses.com.au)

Garlic Demand GrowsHunter garlic growers are moving to boost local production as imports continue to saturate the market. Around a tenth of garlic sold in Australia is locally grown, but the industry is experiencing growing popularity in the Hunter region. Upper Myall garlic grower Jocelyn Colleran says more people are starting to want the local product. “All garlic growers, whether they're large scale or at the lower level just can't keep up supply for the demand,” she says, adding that local growers want to enhance home-grown production. “In the late 1990s, it was probably verging on 90 to 95%, and that amount is going down to probably more in the region of 85%,” she says. “There's still a lot of scope for more Australian-grown garlic, but the opportunity is increasing for people to get their garlic locally.”(Source: abc.net.au)

Economics of Hydroponics The hydroponic food production industry is expanding at a rate that is set

to outpace the 2014 International Monetary Fund estimate of global growth by 80%. Hydroponic systems are being deployed to grow key vegetable

and fruit crops at scale, driving the transition to safe and sustainable food production worldwide. Agriculture is traditionally a conservative market

sector, but the benefits of higher yields with lower inputs, improved soil and water quality and food safety are compelling forces for change. The worldwide

market value of hydroponically produced food will show sustained strength with an estimated 6.5% compound annual growth rate between 2013 and 2018.

Producer value will increase from $17.7 billion to $24.3 billion. “Hydroponic growing advances food safety and traceability that customers, retailers and even food

regulators are demanding,” says Carol L. Stimmel, founder of Manifest Mind.(Source: manifestmind.com)


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budlinkBudLink is still the original and ultimate liquid silica product that has been enjoyed by growers across the world for more than 15 years. BudLink’s unique recipe is formulated from the ground up and includes other beneficial elements. BudLink is effective at all stages of growth and flowering. It compensates for differing plant nutrient requirements, which occur in the presence of silica in the same way a body builder’s nutritional requirements change as their body grows. BudLink is a plant builder that improves plant strength and a plant’s ability to fight against bacteria and insects. BudLink’s active ingredients are imbedded into the plant’s cell walls, producing plants with thicker and greener foliage. When used as a foliar spray it is easily absorbed by the leaves and forms a barrier against airborne bacteria and harsh light levels. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.

the Enhancer by tNb NaturalsQuickly becoming one of the most talked about products to hit the market, this highly-effective, user-activated CO2 canister delivers a high rate of CO2, comparable to a costly CO2 system. The enhancer’s unique features include its ability to slow the release of CO2 during the night cycle, improving overall plant health and final yield. Store owners love its three-year shelf life and growers are amazed at how the enhancer generates one of the highest ppms in the all-natural category of CO2 products. The enhancer's ease of use—simply add water and shake—and the fact that it emits no heat makes it a top choice for knowledgeable growers. For more information, visit your local garden store.

Mag Kits from GrowlushNew Mag Kits from Growlush provide a great value to growers worldwide. each Mag Kit includes a magnetic ballast, an HPS bulb, an MH bulb and an aluminium batwing reflector. The Mag Kits are available in 250-W, 400-W and 600-W sizes. Growlush and its Macro Power bal-last manufacturing facility have been producing ballasts in Australia for more than 18 years. Since 1996, Macro Power has been supplying Sylvania Lighting, producing general magnetic ballasts from 35 to 3,500 W. Growlush also manufactures high-quality industrial ballasts intended for indoor gardening use ranging from 175 to 1,500 W. Along with Australia and New Zealand, Growlush supplies international markets in North America, United Kingdom, europe, South America and South Africa. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.

Galaxy Grow Amp Select-A-Watt ballasts Sunlight Supply is pleased to announce the arrival of Galaxy® Grow Amp Select-A-Watt® Ballasts. Galaxy state-of-the-art HID ballasts are manufactured to provide today’s serious grower with maximum flexibility and performance. The Galaxy Select-A-Watt is the preferred electronic ballast on the market, offering the ability to run multiple wattage lamps or dim the highest wattage (defined by model). Galaxy ballasts have an incorporated, staggered, low-current starting feature to avoid inrush problems when running multiple ballasts. They are available in 400, 600, 750, 1,000 and 1,500 W. The Galaxy brand name has a strong

reputation of reliability and performance. Grow Amp also features ultra-low RFI

broadband emissions. They are compatible with all

Sun System® branded reflectors and are distributed by JB Lighting. Visit an

indoor gardening retail store for more information.


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YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store.

Growlush Now Distributing platinium Modular Systems in Australia and New ZealandThe future has arrived sooner than expected. Platinium Modular Systems are unique because they have the great-est versatility on the market. It is now possible to switch from one system to another in no time and at a lower cost. These modular systems enable gardeners to grow plants in separate pots filled with clay pellets. The integrated irriga-tion system distributes the nutrient solution through the clay pellets and ensures easy access to the reservoir tank with a detachable lid and a graduation that makes it possible to quickly view the nutrient solution level. The systems have the huge advantage of adapting to the various seasons. ev-ery pot may be served individually, meaning that each plant can be watered as needed. They are also detachable so they can easily be replaced. Platinium systems available through Growlush include Hydro Star, Hydro Grower, ebb & Flow, Hydro Stone, Hydro Pro and Aero Star. For more information, visit an indoor gardening retail store.

Nutrifield premium coco chips blend 50/50Nutrifield®is excited to release a product in Australia that blends coco coir with a coco chip struc-ture to deliver explosive yield and dynamic growth. The coco chips measure between 15 and 25 mm, allowing for faster rehydration. This innovative chip structure allows growers to customise air and water ratios at the root zone, which is crucial in fighting plant disease. Combining the properties of coconut fibre and pith, Coco Chips Blend 50/50 offers roots a larger open-pore area, allowing roots to breathe better and encouraging stronger root structure and better drainage. Unused nutrient solutions are easily flushed away, while moisture retention abilities and faster nutrient uptake is upheld. The chips also provide better cation exchange capacity. The smaller chip size also allows for greater insulation against excessive heat or humidity, offering growers peace of mind that root zones will be cooler than the atmospheric conditions surrounding them. Nutrifield Premium Coco Chips Blend 50/50 is designed for gardeners who desire the ultimate nourishing environment and greater results. Visit a specialty garden centre for more information.

21Maximum Yield | March/April 2014

http://www.house-garden.com.au

Nutrifield premium coco perlite blend 70/30By combining coco and perlite, Nutrifield® has brought together two mediums that will improve plants and yields by increasing the oxygen levels within the root zone. Coco coir is known for its superior water-holding capabilities, while perlite’s drainage properties are second to none. Boast-ing high thermal insulation protection, Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 is a vital ingredient for growers facing hot weather and humidity. The open-pore structure keeps the root zone cooler, which means there is more oxygen available to the roots, increasing the AFP to around 45%. By combining specific ratios of RHP-certified organic coco and perlite, Nutrifield has improved the physical properties of the coco, reducing the possibility of over-watering and saturation while maintaining essential water retention abilities. The grower is now totally in charge of watering and wettability while the media offers better drainage to rid root zones of unused nutrients. Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 promotes a dynamic growing environment for serious growers who expect explosive results. Visit your favourite garden centre for more information.

Humiboosta Humiboosta is formulated using humic and fulvic acids to improve nutrient solubility. This ensures maximum nutrient availability when plants need it the most. Additional macronutrient forms of these organic acids ensure that background nutrient levels are replenished throughout all stages of plant development. These nutrients include calcium, magnesium and potassium. Humiboosta assists in maintaining health in the rhizosphere while encouraging beneficial microbes, especially when growing in coco, peat and soil. Humic and fulvic acid are known for their ability to bind to nutrients, making them more absorbable. Humiboosta is suitable for all systems, including run-to-waste and re-circulating systems, and can be used through all stages of plant growth and flower development. Visit an indoor garden retail shop for more information.

Galaxy Digital logic ballastsGalaxy® Digital Logic™ Ballasts are dimmable, select-wattage ballasts with multiple modes of operation,

including a lamp Turbo Charge® feature. Ballasts come with pre-programmed cycle settings and digital timer integration. The optional remote control can be used for integrated timer programming and

operation. A low-current, staggered ignition delay feature eliminates circuit inrush overload and protects lamps for increased lumen maintenance. Ballasts have a built-in, self-diagnostic feature: the internal ballast programming will protect the unit in the instance of open circuit, short circuit, over/under voltage or high temperature exposure. Galaxy Digital Logic Ballasts are designed with

optimised, non-air-cooled aluminum housing. An included hour meter allows users to manage lamp and ballast age for maximum performance. Dual, universal lamp cord receptacles are compatible with Sun System® reflectors and other brands. Ballasts also come with an LeD digital display. Visit an indoor garden retail store for more information.

Digimax DE lampNow available in Australia through Sunlight Supply, the Digimax 1,000-W Double ended HPS Horticulture Lamp is specifically designed for operation with high-frequency electronic ballasts. The Digimax De's unique T32.5 double-ended lamp construction allows for maximum optical efficiency and improved ignition behavior. It has a connection wire at each end of the lamp, eliminating the need for a frame wire inside the lamp. The absence of frame wire eliminates any shadows in the light beam. Digimax De lamps have an improved light spectrum, improved PAR maintenance and a quicker warm up time/reduced restrike time. Double-ended lamp-specific locking sockets ensure optimal lamp placement and support within the reflector. Please use caution and follow lamp installation instructions included with Sunlight Supply-specific De reflectors. The jacket of this double-ended lamp is made from quartz glass—do not handle with bare hands. The lamp is packaged in a protective keepsake tin box and comes with a one-year warranty. Visit an indoor garden retail store for more information.


prOdUCT SpOTLiGHTprOdUCT SpOTLiGHT

biobizz Nutrients from Growlush The Biobizz organic range of nutrients and additives, now available in Australia and New Zealand through Growlush, has become popular in recent years partly because it is a complete package of products that produces consistently good results. Biobizz has put a lot of time and effort into not only providing an excellent, top-grade organic nutrient range, but it has also tried hard to meet many organic certification criteria around the world, giving this product line strong, international organic credentials. This range of feeds and additives contain only natural ingredients prepared and produced within recognised organic production method guidelines. It is a complete suite of growing products ranging from grow media to grow and bloom feeds. Also included

is Alg-A-Mic vitality booster, TopMax Bloom Stimulant, Root Juice root zone booster, Fish

Mix and Coco Mix. These products are easy to use,

affordably priced and provide excellent results. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.

Sea EssentialsSea essentials is formulated using a unique blend of sea plants, including kelp, seaweed and sea grass, each chosen for its unique plant health promoting properties and micronutrient content. Sea essentials promotes flowering and fruit development. Sea plants are known for their high amino acid and natural stimulant content. The naturally occurring compounds also help promote nutrient uptake and healthy roots in the rhizosphere while encouraging beneficial microbes. Sea essentials is also low in sodium compared to other products derived from sea plants. The product contains organically bound trace elements and iodine, which is beneficial to human health. Sea essentials can be used through all stages of plant growth and flower development. It is suitable for all run-to-waste and re-circulating systems. For more information, visit an indoor garden retail store.



Hydro is the way of the future—when are YOU going to get started?

Learn to Garden Growing Systems for Beginners

by Matt Geschke

Hydro is the way of the future—when are YOU going to get started?


By now you have probably seen images in the mainstream media referencing food security issues in some parts of the world. Images beamed from afar have indicated how bad the food shortages can be. It almost induces a sort of helplessness, but there are solutions and they start close to home. Simply put, it’s time for a new agricultural revolution. Indoor

growing is the way of the future. Successful indoor gardens can easily produce seven to 10 times more food than a tradi-tionally farmed plot of the same size outdoors and hydroponic crops are not susceptible to the kinds of disasters that so often befall traditional farmers. Indoor gardening might be our only viable option for the future and when done correctly requires little pesticide or herbicide use, can be practiced organically and inexpensively and can pro-vide you, your family and possibly even your neighbours with a nutrient-dense variety of fresh and healthy food all year-round.

This may sound like a utopian solution to a real and serious prob-lem and you might instinctively assume there must some sort of catch. Well, there is. Hydroponic gardening is not easy and it requires a fundamental knowledge of the plants you intend to cultivate and a basic knowledge of the various growing systems and how they function. Finally, it is important to be realistic and fully understand both the financial costs and the time commitment it takes to have a successful indoor garden. So, where do we start?

“ it is important to be realistic and fully understand both the financial costs and the time commitment it takes to have a successful indoor garden.”


http://www.hydroponicgenerations.com.au

Whether you call them mini-systems, beginner gardens or starter kits, basic hydroponic systems are good ways to figure out whether hydroponic gardening is a viable option before invest-ing your life savings on a bunch of gadgets promising astonish-ing results. By starting with a basic set-up, a novice hydroponic gardener will be able to learn the fundamentals of water cul-ture, the effects pH and reservoir temperature have on nutrient solution efficacy, how environmental variables like humidity and temperature can accelerate or slow growth and how supplemen-tal lighting can increase overall yield and quality.

The best beginner systems in my opinion are those that are simply designed and easily expandable, either through DIY modifications or through the purchase of professionally manufactured modules. This approach ensures that the new gardener will not be overwhelmed by the complexity of the system while allaying any concerns they may have regarding growing out of the system they just purchased. Basic systems come in a myriad of designs, suitable for

cultivating a wide variety of crops. You should buy the best system that you can afford and sacrifice size for quality every time because indoor gardening is a hobby that by nature is hard on equipment. Shoddy equipment fails and if you have already exhausted your shoestring budget on going as big as possible, you’ll be in trouble if something goes wrong. Be patient and start small. Modest operations using high-quality equipment will ensure better results than larger, poorly con-structed spaces, with none of the headaches and disappoint-ment. Smaller spaces are easier to maintain and clean and smaller plant numbers generally result in a healthier garden and the opportunity to spend more time with each plant.

Be knowledgeable and well read. Try to know something about indoor growing before you get to the grow shop and you’re much more likely to come home with what you need. You’ll save yourself and the hydro employee trying to assist you a lot of time.Another tip is simpler is better. To clarify, I mean that the

best solution is generally the one with the fewest compli-cations. In fact, I recommend six plants or less to start, which will allow you to really get to know each plant you are growing. This level of interaction with your garden is essential in the beginning.

You might be in a hurry to get started now that you’ve decided to give indoor gardening a go, but don’t rush it. You can be successful with nearly any type of system as long as you understand the fundamentals of hydroponics. Transitioning slowly into an indoor garden has several advantages over simply jumping in with both feet. By transitioning slowly from traditional soil agriculture to an intermediate system—like a top-drip, perlite-based garden or a coir-based flood and drain operation—your likelihood of success will be significantly greater.

“modest operations using high-quality

equipment will ensure better results

than larger, poorly constructed spaces.”

“ i recommend six plants or less to start, which

will allow you to really get to know each plant

you are growing. this level of interaction with

your garden is essential in the beginning.”

learn to garden

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Eventually you’ll have done some reading and cleared a space in your home and you’ll be ready to think about which system to get started with. It is important for new gardeners to become informed on the variety of systems available to determine which best matches their growing style. Here’s some information on a few of the systems available, along with some pros and cons about each one.

Top drip Top drip systems are great transition gardens and should be strongly considered as a choice for any gardener on a budget, or anyone just getting started. All you need is a handful of 19-L buckets, about 110 L of the medium of your choice, 9 to 12 m of 1.3-cm irrigation line, 10 or so emit-ter stakes, 8 m of 0.3-cm spaghetti line, a water reservoir, a fountain pump, a timer, a drill and a free afternoon. There are countless permutations of this system and most allow for a wide variety of different media options, including per-lite, hydroton, coir, soilless mix, hygromite and stonewool. These systems are readily available as kits from a variety of suppliers, but can also be easily constructed from materials obtained from your local hardware store. The benefits are that they are inexpensive to construct, simple in design and can be used to grow nearly any kind of crop. Unfortunately, top drip systems are often cited as being damaging to the surrounding environment as the runoff is rarely treated before it flows back into the ecosystem, sometimes leading to eutrophic conditions and a disruption of native flora and fauna. One could also argue that other than the automa-tion of the watering there are actually limited benefits over traditional soil gardening. Top drip systems are also excep-tionally inefficient with regards to nutrient conservation—it is not uncommon for a drain-to-waste garden to consume 30 to 50% more nutrients than a similar sized recirculating garden and as much as 70% more than a properly function-ing, recirculating deep water culture system.

Deep Water Culture Deep water culture, or DWC, systems are another good choice for beginners or those on a budget and can range from simple all-inclusive one-tote, one-site designs to elabo-rate, hyper-oxygenated recirculating systems. All you really need to build a deep water culture system is a few inexpen-sive components and the medium of your choice. Try to keep the reservoir consistently in the 22 to 23°C range for optimal results, as increases in temperature will result in dramatic decreases in dissolved oxygen levels, and low dis-solved oxygen levels and warm water will create the perfect environment for pathogenic anaerobic bacteria to prolif-erate, putting your plants at increased risk for root-borne diseases. The benefits of this system are that it can be built to be as simple or as elaborate as you wish and can be tailored to fit any space. It is capable of growing nearly any crop from greens to gourds and is incredibly stingy with nutrients, using up to 70% less than a similar sized top drip system.

Finally, when dialed in, these systems consistently produce huge harvests and often do so on a shortened cycle. The drawbacks to DWC gardens are few, but the systems are heavy so they tend to perform well on sealed concrete slab floors, which are structurally solid and inherently cool. The other major problem DWC gardeners face is leaks. Left unchecked they can be devastating, with catastrophic failures emptying a system in seconds. Does your homeowner’s insurance cover hydroponically induced flooding?

learn to garden

“top drip systems are great transition gardens and should be strongly considered as a choice for any gardener on a budget.”


Flood and Drain Flood and drain systems have been around a long time. Ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natu-ral flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well. High-quality flood and drain bucket systems are available from a variety of reputable suppliers and flood table reservoir combinations can be found in many hydro shops. These systems address the wasteful nature of top drip systems and are capable of saving up to 50% by only flooding when necessary and returning the nutrient solution to the reser-voir between cycles. In addition, they offer the same media-buffering effects seen with top drip systems.

The cons of flood and drain operations can be summarised in two words: timers and floats. Flood and drain bucket systems rely on timers and float valves to execute the tasks of flooding and draining throughout the day, but as the mechanical parts involved are pretty reliable, these systems are capable of turning out incredible results cycle after cycle.

“ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natural flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well.”

Hybrid Systems Relatively new to the market, hybrid systems combine two or more systems into one design, allowing for supreme ver-satility and efficiency. Since these systems are relatively new, long-term efficacy data is not yet available. Most products claim they are optimised for all stages of growth as some plants have been documented to respond more favourably to one irrigation method or another, depending on the stage of the plant’s development. Although they are new and relatively unproven, it is easy to see why these designs may just be the answer for beginners and budget gardeners alike. Many of these designs could be recreated by the gar-dener, but it would require a fair degree of skill and is not recommended for the novice. However, if you are a budget gardener and you play engineer in your tool shed, this may be right up your alley!

SUMMING IT ALL UP In the end, it is less about the system and more about the individual. It is important to pick a system you are comfort-able with. Your choice should fit comfortably within your budget (or slightly less), allowing for some modifications or upgrades along the way if necessary. Make certain the system you choose can grow the crops you intend to grow. I know it sounds stupid, but you would be amazed at how many new gardeners are surprised at the extreme difficulty they seem to be having growing sunflowers to maturity in their indoor gardens. Remember, whatever system you choose and what-ever you choose to grow, you are actively participating in a movement that may just change the world.


101:Hydroponic Gardeners’ Best Friends

As we make our gardens more pleasing to ourselves, we are also making them more appetising to a stream of hungry pests. So, what is a gardener to do? In a word: ladybirds.

by Susan Eitel


There is nothing quite as exhilarating as tending a garden. You get to witness your physical, financial and emotional investment flourish beyond expectation. However, as we make our gardens more pleasing to ourselves, we in turn make them more appetising to a seemingly endless parade of pests. Insects see our hard work as their free lunch. Who can blame them? A healthy garden is nature’s dinner bell. Still, there is nothing quite as deflating as witnessing your investment become withered and brown, decimated by those dream-sucking insects. What is a gardener to do? Well, not all

insects are created equal in the garden, and ladybirds are the answer to that question.A ladybird is not a bug at all. It is a beetle, assigned to the

beetle family, Coccinellidae, which is why you will some-times encounter the names lady beetle and ladybird beetle. Another term that you will hear them called is a beneficial insect. A beneficial insect describes any number of different bugs or beetles that feed upon other insects. Beneficials feast only upon the pest insects that do much of the harm to our gardens while leaving the plants untouched for the gardener. In other words, when nature gave us lemons in the form of pests, she also gave us lemonade in the form of ladybirds. A rising interest in organic gardening, as well as increas-

ing pressures to ban chemical controls, is leading more gardeners away from using pesticides as the lone remedy for insect damage. Ladybirds are a general predator and will eat pretty much any soft-bodied prey that crosses their path—spider mites, thrips, white flies, mealy bugs and the scale and the eggs of all these predators are common sources of food. They especially like aphids and can consume thousands of these pests per week. It is because of these attributes that breeding ladybirds in indoor and outdoor gardens has become quite popular.It’s worthwhile to learn a bit about the ladybird in order to

better understand its role in pest management. Coccinellidae is the biggest family of the beetle superfamily Cucujoidea with about 6,000 species classified in 370 genera worldwide.

There are 57 genera and about 500 species in Australia with about half of them yet undescribed. The variety used for indoor gardens is the Hippodamia convergens. There are four stages of metamorphosis for this beetle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Female adults can each lay up to 1,000 white or yellow eggs in clusters on the undersides of leaves. Eggs hatch within four days and start eating immediately. Larvae are black and orange like their adult versions, although they resemble spiny alligators at this stage. The larvae stay on the plant, feeding on pests until pupation. Three to 12 days after they pupate, an adult emerges to start the cycle all over again. Knowing and recognising these stages is necessary if you hope to use beneficials to their best advantage. The majority of garden beetles are from insectaries (or, bug

laboratories). Ladybirds harvested from the wild can carry parasites or disease and should be avoided, so check with your supplier to make sure any beneficial insect you purchase is indigenous to your area and government approved. Ladybirds can be an inexpensive form of pest control. Prices

vary between suppliers, but in many cases, beneficial insects can be less expensive than pesticides in both commercial and non-commercial applications. A thousand beetles would be enough to effectively treat an area of approximately 52 m². Indoor breeding of beneficial insects requires a constant

food source both before and after their natural prey has been exhausted. Beneficial insect food is available to provide your Ladybirds with that year-round supply. The food—gen-erally a powdered pollen, nectar and protein mixture that is combined with water at the time of application—is capable of sustaining beetles at a healthy vigour until their natural prey becomes available. The powder is inexpensive and it is easily stored due to a long shelf-life.

Without question, ladybirds can be an asset to the gardener and the garden. Like most tools, however, improper use can offer poor results. Always remember: there are no silver bul-lets. Gardening relies as much on good science as it does on good craftsmanship. It is the complexities of natural systems that make gardens possible and pest management challeng-ing, but we can’t have one without the other.

Ladybird larvae look like spiny alligators. They feed on pests until pupation.

A thousand ladybird beetles is enough to treat 51 sq. m.


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to Taking

ingsThe process of cloning a plant by taking a cutting can be extremely useful, allowing you to continue growing exact genetic replicas of your favourite plants. Matt LeBannister shares what you need to know to be a confident and successful cutting expert.

by matt lebannister

A Simple Guide

Cu Plant

It’s easy to see that genetics are an extremely important factor in the human story—after all, it is our genes that determine to a large extent what type of people we will be. Whether we will be tall or short, skinny or fat, disease resistant or susceptible to infection, it’s all in our genes. This doesn’t just apply to humans, though. It applies to all life on Earth, including the plants we grow. So when we first grow a type of tomato or pepper that we really like, it is only natural to want to hold onto that plant and its good traits. The best way to ensure that your next generation of plants has the same favourable qualities is to take a cut-ting of that plant, thus creating an exact genetic replica, or clone. Some plants will take to this process better than others, but by following some simple instructions you can limit your failures and become something of a cutting expert.


ings


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Selecting a Mother PlantMaking clones from plant cuttings is a method of asexual propagation. The cutting is taken from what is commonly referred to as a mother plant. A cutting will be genetically iden-tical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same. Your best, most vigorous plants should be selected as mother plants, as their vitality will then be passed onto the cuttings. The mother plant should be healthy and at least one or two months old and should be kept in a constant vegetative state.Your mother plant’s only purpose is for taking cuttings. To

avoid contaminating your mother plant with pest insects or disease, keep it isolated from the rest of your plants—if your mother plant was to become infected with a disease, all sub-sequent cuttings would be infected and therefore useless.

Making the CutWhichever cutting tool you use, whether it’s a scalpel, a rasor, scissors or some other instrument, it must be sterile, because making a cut can introduce disease to your plant through the open wound. Find a healthy branch with four to six leaves on it and, using the sterile cutting tool, sever the branch at a 45-degree angle directly below the bottom two leaves. These lower two leaves can now be removed from the cutting, allowing more of the freshly cut surface area to be exposed to your rooting hormones and medium. The severed end of the cutting should then be stuck into your chosen medium about 2.5-cm deep. Do this quickly, as air can get trapped in the freshly cut stem of the cutting and this could cause it to wilt and die.

Rooting HormonesWhen a cutting is taken from a plant, stem cells that were used to grow leaves and branches must then begin to grow roots instead. Plants achieve this by the stem cells located at the cut becoming undifferentiated cells, eventually trans-forming into root cells. Root-inducing hormones are already present in plants, but many gardeners believe that by dip-ping the severed end of the cutting into a rooting compound that contains some root-inducing hormones, the rate at which the roots will develop will be accelerated.Rooting compounds come in powder, gel and liquid forms

and are to be applied to the severed end of the cutting right after the cut has been made, prior to it being inserted into the growing medium. Liquid and gel types are most common, as the powdered versions are easy to over apply and too much rooting hormone solution can actually stunt the development

of new root growth. The three most common rooting hor-mones found in commercially available rooting compounds are napthalenaecatic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA) and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4DPA).

Growing MediaThere are many different types of growing media available to the indoor gardener and each has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Rockwool is popular for use with cuttings. This inert medium with excellent water and oxygen-retaining proper-ties is spun from heated rock in a similar style to cotton candy. Insects that lay eggs in growing media are less likely to lay their eggs in rockwool and root-borne insects are also less likely to be found in it. Rockwool can come in a flat of 100 starter cubes, which are easily transplanted into larger cubes suitable for hydroponic systems.

Coco coir is made from shredded coconut husks. It is totally inert, suitable for rooting cuttings and is often available in starter packs ideal for propagating cuttings.

Soil and soilless mixes are not inert and can contain patho-gens harmful to plants. To sterilise your soil or soilless mix-ture you can bake the medium in your oven—just place the necessary amount of mix into a large baking tray and bake in the oven at 250°C for 15 minutes. Allow the mix to cool before placing your cuttings in it.

“ A cutting will be genetically identical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same.”

“ when A cutting is taken from a plant, stem cells that were used to grow leaves and branches must then begin to grow roots instead.”

plant cuttings


“AppropriAte humidity levels are important for cuttings to root successfully.”

Aeroponics is the medium of the future for cuttings. There are many different aeroponic cutting propagators on the market and they all work on the same principal: the severed end of the cutting is suspended in the air where it is misted by a fine spray of water. Roots will eventually grow into the humid, misty air and can then be transplanted into a larger aeroponic system. This technique is also ideal for starting cuttings that are destined for nutrient film technique hydroponic systems. Many people are achieving excellent results with these methods.

LightingLighting is vital in all stages of plant development and cut-tings are no different. Cuttings need 18 to 24 hours of light if they are to root properly, but they must not receive light that is too intense. Transpiration is the process through which water is evaporated through the leaves and in turn water is sucked in through the roots. Without fully developed roots, plant cuttings can easily dry out. Using fluorescent light bulbs at this stage of growth is wise because they are not intense enough to damage fragile cuttings.

HumidityAppropriate humidity levels are important for cuttings to root successfully. High humidity levels from 90 to 100% slow down transpiration and help keep cuttings from drying out. High humidity levels also help to promote root growth. Humidity domes (clear plastic covers placed over your cuttings, allowing light in and keeping the humidity from escaping) are excellent tools to help maintain ideal humid-ity levels. With high humidity levels there is always a risk of developing moulds and fungi, so to help prevent this, as well as to toughen up your cuttings, remove the humidity dome from the cuttings for 10 to 20 minutes each day.

Air and Root Zone TemperatureCuttings will root faster and with higher success rates when the root zone and air temperatures are kept within a certain range. They do best when the air temperature is between 20°C and 30°C. Outside of this range and root growth will be stunted or stopped altogether. The root zone temperature should actually be five degrees warmer than the ambient air temperature to promote root growth. Heating pads with thermostats, available at any quality hydro shop, can be placed below the cutting tray for controlled root zone heating.

TransplantingAfter cuttings have been taken they must be given ade-quate time to grow roots before they are transplanted into larger planter pots or into a hydroponic or aeroponic system. Do not transplant cuttings until there is dense root growth. This can be determined by checking under-neath rockwool flats or by gently coaxing the root ball out of the container. Transplanting can be a stressful process for the plant—as stressful as taking the cutting in the first place—so always handle roots and cuttings with care and do whatever it takes to ensure the plant is damaged as little as possible during transplanting.The process of cloning a plant by taking a cutting can be

extremely useful, allowing you to continue growing exact genetic replicas of your favourite plants. It may seem like a complicated process, but with the right knowledge and expe-rience there is no reason it has to be a difficult one, either for you or your plants!


The Agrarian Kitchen sits on five acres of lush land in Tasmania and boasts two poly tunnels, veggie and herb gar-dens, orchards and many ingenious ideas to keep the organ-ics in their growing rolling nicely along.

TUNNELSInitially, Rodney built a single poly tunnel with the intention of protecting his seedlings, but he found that it made such a big difference in the growth and yield of the produce that they built a second tunnel. Rodney is passionate about eating fresh produce that is grown in-season, and finds these poly tunnels invaluable for extending the outdoor growing season, especially in Tasmania where the climate is so unpredictable. Each tunnel is 4.5-m across and 20-m long and, for some extra ground cover, Rodney integrates smaller hoops that can be placed on any plant anywhere on the farm. These clever

Nestled in a chilly Tasmanian valley is the village of Lachlan, where, if you focus your gaze through the hills and trees you’ll discover a schoolhouse built in the 1800s that Rodney Dunn and wife Severine Demanet have transformed into a sustainable farm-based cooking school. Rodney shares with maximum yield a few of their tips for growing success.

agrarian kitchen the

little hoops cover up to another 15 m, offering warmth and protection for Rodney’s delicate plants in Tasmania’s often cruel, cold climate.

WHAT’S GROWINGThe Agrarian Kitchen is growing a wide variety of fruit, vegetables and herbs. Even within the realms of everyday fresh food varieties, Rodney and his gardeners have managed to source and grow strange, distant cousins from faraway lands—things like wasabi, horseradish, alpine strawberries, five kinds of corn, an exotic range of herbal teas, caraway, salad burnet, orange-peel thyme, cardoon and Mexican hyssop, not to mention the standard produce we know and love: potatoes, peas, beans, chillies (a must in the poly tun-nels), eggplants, artichokes, broad beans, 60 varieties of herbs, berries galore and a range of nuts. They even upkeep hops and brew their own beer.Everything the Agrarian Kitchen grows is from seed and the

growers incorporate new seed trails into everyday farming life. And, when varieties pop up that the growers really like, they save the seeds for the next year. This way, if a variety fails, they haven’t put all their eggs in one basket and it’s not a great loss. “People will tell you that certain things won’t grow very well in your area, but you can’t just take their word

From left to right: Rodney Dunn, Lee Farrell and Jethro Havenhand make up a portion of the Agrarain Kitchen team.

by Raquel Neofit


GROWERS KNOWGROWERS KNOW

on that,” Rodney says. “So, we trial a small amount and if it fails, well, you know, nothing ventured, nothing gained. And if we get something from it, well, that’s great!”When it comes to growing difficult produce, Rodney says

it all comes back to the seasons, especially in Tasmania. “You can struggle with the seasons down here, sometimes we wonder if we’ve even had a summer at all; it can just drift in and out. You can get a warm day and then you can get three or four cold ones.”To protect yourself against unpredictable climates, Rodney

recommends planting lots of different things, and then you will always get something at the end. “Cover yourself by plant-ing smaller amounts of lots of different things so that if one variety fails, you have other produce to fall back on.”

PEST CONTROLThe Agrarian Kitchen’s property is completely natural and organic and the operators think of it as one giant worm farm. Everything they do is done with the soil in mind. “As far as pest control and fertilisation of the garden go, we use absolutely zero pesticides and all our fertilisation is by natural methods, whether we are using composted tea that we make up ourselves or growing green manure crops. We rotate animals over the spaces to try to improve the fertility of the soil. Whether its pigs or chickens, every-thing is done with the soil in mind and keeping the soil healthy,” Rodney says. Because the growers grow such a wide diversity of plants,

they can’t spray anything. “Around here, you’ll find lots of frogs and things and the whole gamut of the natural system is still intact, because we haven’t sprayed pesti-cides and killed off all the natural predators, which is very important. If we sprayed pesticides, we’d kill off all the spiders, which would in turn mean that we might get an influx of aphids or something. Occasionally we might notice there are a lot of slugs around, but in the balance of things it’s nothing, it will even back out again. We’ve also put quails in the tunnels and they clean it up without scratching the ground up too much or eating the plants. If you put chickens in, they will destroy the environment, but the quails won’t. They’ll just control the insects and clean it up a little bit.”

THE FUTUREEventually, Rodney says the Agrarian Kitchen would love to

build some hot greenhouses so they can have the stability to grow more hot-climate crops that really can’t handle the temperature variances of the Tasmanian climate.For anyone considering making

the move to acquiring more land and starting a garden, Rodney says, do it while you’re young! “There are loads of people who want to make this kind of move, who are fed-up living in the city, but it’s a difficult thing to do when, by human nature, we are comfortable where we are. It’s a long process; you just have to bite

the bullet and do it.”

“If careful notes are taken over a period of years, plants that

perform well can be repeated.”

Above: Rodney Dunn. Photo by Luke Burgess.Right: Rodney Dunn’s book The Agrarian Kitchen published by Penguin Lantern showcases the best of Tasmanian-grown produce and inspires readers to eat what is seasonally abundant.


GROWERS KNOW

R'SSOFnot that Hard!by Jennifer Casey

Softened water is one of those things you either love or hate, but regardless of which camp you’re in, knowing a little bit about water softener can help you better evaluate your water needs. The bottom line is that if you have hard water, you should probably get a softener.


Softened water is a divisive issue. Proponents love the clean bathroom fixtures, superior lather of soap and laundry detergent and streak-free windows. Haters primarily dislike that slimy feeling softened water leaves on the skin, and the added salt, which requires a point-of-use filter for drinking water and plants. Regardless of which camp you’re in, know-ing a little bit about water softeners can help you make an informed decision when evaluating your water needs.

Softeners look a little like an oxygen tank, are available in several sizes and can use either sodium chloride (salt) or potassium chloride as a medium. They work by exchanging the hardness (that is, minerals) in water for either sodium or potassium using cationic exchange. Hardness is measured in grains. The more grains of hardness present in the water, the higher the salt or potassium content of the softened water. Gardeners who use a reverse osmosis (RO) filter to prevent nutrient lockout of their plants might want to add a softener before their system to reduce hardness and help extend the life of their RO system.

“ Using a remineralising post filter is an

easy solution that adds minerals your

body can use and allows ro to remove

many other harmful contaminants.”


http://www.growright.com.au

soft water’s not that hard

softeners...

work by exchanging the hardness (minerals) for either sodium or

potassium using cationic exchange.”

It All Comes Out in the WashSoft water is so named because it isn’t hard. In research-ing this article, I found that years ago, when people did their laundry by hand, they found that heavily mineralised water made it hard to wash clothes—hence, hard water. Apparently, their solution was to collect rainwater to wash with, which was referred to as soft. This might seem like a lot of trouble to go to for the sake of washing a few dirty clothes, but there are university studies that show clothes washed in hard water wore out 15 times faster than those washed in softened water. This statistic is attributed to the way that suspended minerals simply rub on clothing fibres and wear them out, which seems somewhat obvious.Apparently, detergent is another factor. Laundry soap was

originally highly alkaline, which helped to create a water environment in which dirt was easily released. As people got tired of saving rainwater for their laundry, their laundry soap wasn’t working well to wash their clothes. Soap-based cleaners combine with hard water to create what is called soap curd. This unappealing substance is a combination of soap and hard-water minerals, and is what ends up coating your shower door, bathroom fixtures, etc. It’s also hard on fabrics. Enter detergent. Detergent was devel-oped as a petroleum product and dissolves nicely in hard water. This is helpful when doing laundry, but not so helpful for the planet.

Many people are doing their best

to avoid petroleum products whenever possible, and synthetic detergents are not

nearly as biodegradable as their soapy predecessors. If you cringe at the price of clothes these days,

remember that wearing out those skinny jeans 15 times faster can really add up. As innocuous as doing laundry might seem, the effects of hard water can impede the process of cleaning your

clothing, towels and linens, which costs money. Although synthetic detergent mitigates some of the soap curd associated with laundering in hard water, the best solution is to simply use a water softener. Once used, a return to traditional laundry soap will help keep your clothes clean and the planet happy, or

synthetic detergents can be used in much smaller amounts than before, saving more

money. Hot water use will decrease, as the soap will do an excellent job in cool water, saving on

energy costs. Additionally, using a water softener ensures that your skin will no longer be a reposi-tory for soap curd residue.



http://www.way2grow.com.au

Slippery = Clean?Soap curd is also responsible for that squeaky clean feeling on skin and hair—maybe. The lack of squeak, the feeling that maybe the soap hasn’t rinsed entirely off, is one of the most controversial effects of softeners. According to some, the slip-pery feeling skin gets in softened water is a result of the ionic exchange that occurs when mineral content is exchanged for sodium or potassium (depending on which media is used in the softener) and the resulting ions keep the soap from stick-ing to the water and getting rinsed off. Sounds pretty legit, but check out the Internet for any water softening company and the explanation changes. These companies claim that the slippery feeling is actually the way that clean skin feels without the rubbery squeak of soap curd. Both sides acknowledge that since soap works much better in soft water, people sometimes use the levels they used in hard water—much more than is necessary in soft water. It’s a tough claim to parse, as rinsing a soapy sink in softened water leaves no hint of curdy ring, which points to superior rinsing ability and the claim of the makers of softeners. Then again, rinsing in naturally soft water like rain-water or water softened by other means like RO, both of which wouldn’t contain added sodium or potassium, doesn’t seem to cause any sort of slimy skin-feel, regardless of soap.

I failed to find any third-party study that actually measured soap residue left after a softened water rinse verses a hard water rinse. Anecdotally, some users of softeners rave about the improved condition of skin and hair without soap or mineral residue when using a softener, while others bemoan the drying effects of softened water on their person. When it

comes to the skin/hair debate, it might just be a matter of preference. Personally, I believe it might very well be

the way that the sodium/potassium ions feel on the skin, not necessarily that soap is being left behind.

But, How Does it Taste?There are some softener companies that claim

that unless one is on a severely salt-restricted diet, the added salt in softened water isn’t a health risk,

with an average of about 0.57 g of added sodium per 3.79 L of water. While this amount is about one-fifth of the sodium in skim milk, I’d be more concerned with taste. In my opinion, the drinking water that tastes the best is water that has been filtered using RO to take 96 to 99% of all contaminants out, and then treated with a remineralising post filter to add back about 30 to 50 ppm of calcium carbonate for that clean, crisp taste. Drinking water that has been demineralised

(whether by an ion exchange softener or RO) is another source of controversy, some claiming that it strips the body of its own minerals, and others pointing to the fact that many dis-solved minerals on water are too large to be absorbed by the body. Using a remineralis-ing post filter is an easy solution that adds minerals your body can use and allows RO to remove many other harmful contaminants. An added benefit of using a softener is that it acts as excellent pre-filtration for a RO drinking water or a plant water system, preserving expensive RO membranes and saving you money!

“when people did their laundry by hand, they found that heavily mineralised water made it hard to wash clothes—hence, hard water.”




http://www.sunlightsupply.com

What About the Plants?Let’s be clear: sodium chloride-softened water should never be given to your plants, especially in a hydroponic garden, as plants are sensitive to levels of sodium. Some outdoor gardeners who have a whole-house softener might choose to use potassium chloride media, as the relatively low levels found in softened water are not generally harmful for lawns and other non-sensitive plants. However, hydroponic gardens can also be disrupted by excessive potassium.

A softener can benefit your plants in much the same way it can benefit your drinking water—as a pre-filter for RO. Reverse osmosis has become the gold-standard of water treat-ment in hydroponics, removing blocky, unusable minerals, heavy metals, volatile organic compounds and a host of other toxic contaminants and preventing nutrient lockout. The most expensive parts of an RO filter are the membranes, and those with large gardens using lots of water know that replac-ing those membranes can add up. Incidentally, the hardness that prompts many gardeners to purchase an RO system is the same hardness that can prematurely clog the RO mem-branes. Since softeners exchange that damaging hardness for sodium or potassium chloride, the membrane’s job is much easier. Both sodium chloride and potassium chloride are easily removed by RO membranes, which will remove 99% of sodium or potassium chloride.

Bottom LineThe bottom line is that if you have hard water, you should probably get a softener. Whether or not you use the soft-ened water for your whole house, for your shower or just to preserve your RO membranes in the greenhouse is a matter of preference. The money it can save you in the laundry room and the garden is undeniable.

“ sodiUm-chloride softened water should never be given to your plants, especially in a hydroponic garden, as plants are very sensitive to levels of sodium.”



Cheap and Easy Starts:

How to Germinate Seeds at Home by heather rhoades

Buying plants is expensive, but if you learn how to germinate seeds,

you’ll never have to worry about spending

too much for plant starts again.


Many people will tell you that one of the most expensive parts of gardening is buying the plants. The best way to avoid this problem is to simply grow your own plants from seeds. Once you learn how to germinate seeds, you will always be able to have cheap plants. It is easy to get started with cheap seed starting.

How to Germinate SeedsStart with seeds that are less than two years old, a soilless seed starting medium of some kind and a container that can help hold moisture in. A soilless seed starting medium will ensure that the seeds and seedlings are not killed by too much salt or salinity (frequently found in soil or even regular soilless mixes). The soilless seed starting medium can be an actual soilless seed starting mix from your local nursery, or a folded paper towel. If you choose to use a paper towel, you will need to move the ger-minated seeds to soil or another growing medium after they have sprouted. The container you select should hold in moisture.

A plastic container is ideal for this. Some people might use a Tupperware container while others might use a Ziploc bag. The next step is to dampen (but do not soak) the soilless seed starting medium and place it in the container. This will ensure that the seeds continuously receive the appropriate amount of moisture.Now, find a warm place to put your seeds. Warmth

is another important factor that affects seed ger-mination. Many people find that the top of their refrigerator is ideal, but you can use a heating pad

“the most common factors that affect seed germination are moisture, salinity and heat.”

set very low or even the top of your TV, anywhere that has a very low, steady heat. You should always keep your seed germination container out of direct sunlight, even if the package specifies they need sun to germinate. If you need the sunlight, place in indirect light. Check your seeds often to see if they have sprouted.

Germination time for seeds varies and should be marked on the packet. Once they have sprouted, vent the container by opening it a little bit. If using a paper towel, move the seedlings to proper soil. Otherwise, transplant seedlings when they have two true leaves.

Factors That Affect Seed GerminationThe factors that affect seed germination vary from plant species to species, but there are a few that are standard. The most common factors that affect seed germination are moisture, salinity and heat. If the seeds you are growing are not germinated in what is considered a standard way, the seed packet will state this in the directions. Contrary to popular belief on how to germinate

seeds, sunlight is not a standard factor that influences seed germination (unless otherwise stated on the seed packet). In fact, sunlight can do more harm than good as it might overheat the seeds and seedlings and kill them.

Now that you know how to germinate seeds, you can grow your own cheap plants!


CARBON DIOXIDE ENRICHMENT FOR INDOOR

GARDENING IS NOTHING NEW, BUT THESE

DAYS MORE GROWERS ARE LOOKING FOR LOWER-COST

ALTERNATIVES TO PROVIDE WHAT MIGHT BE THE DIFFERENCE

BETWEEN LIFE AND DEATH IN THE GROWROOM.


Ambient CO2 levels (the percentage of carbon dioxide in the air with any enrichment) typically hover around 400 parts per million (ppm). Indoor plants can quickly convert this CO2 through photosynthesis, depleting what’s naturally available. When levels fall to around 150 ppm, the rate of plant growth quickly declines. Enriching the air in the indoor growing area to around 1,200 to 1,500 ppm can have a dramatic effect on plant growth. Growth rates typically increase by up to 30%. Stems and branches grow faster, and the cells of those areas are more densely packed. Stems can carry more weight without bend-ing or breaking. Carbon dioxide-enriched plants also have more flowering sites due to the increased branching effect.

In this discussion about carbon dioxide enrichment in the indoor garden, let us first look at some basics. Photosynthesis is the process by which plant leaves make carbohydrates. Specifically, sunlight, CO2 and water are converted into carbohydrates and oxygen by the action of chlorophyll in the plant’s chloroplasts. When plants are able to maximise the process of

photosynthesis, the result is larger plants with larger yields. Plants growing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photosynthesise. Plants can quickly use up the available CO2 and con-vert it to oxygen. When oxygen levels rise too high, stomata on the leaf’s surface close and plant growth virtually stops. Growing areas that have limited or no air circulation can be affected even more. Lack of air movement causes CO2 that would be used by plants to become unavailable due to its distance from the leaf (usually down low in the growing area). Moving air helps solve this problem.

Adequate levels of light, water and nutrients are needed for good plant growth. Therefore, it might seem logical to assume the growth-promoting effects of indoor CO2 enrichment would be reduced when these essential resources are present in less-than-adequate amounts. In many instances, the percent-age of growth enhancement provided by indoor CO2 enrichment is even greater when these important natural resources are present in sub-par quantities. When they are in such short supply that plants cannot survive under ambient concentrations, elevated levels of CO2 often enable such vegetation to grow and successfully reproduce where they would otherwise die. One of the reasons plants are able to respond to indoor CO2 enrichment in the face of significant shortages of light, water and nutrients is that carbon dioxide-enriched plants generally have more exten-sive and active root systems, which allows them to more thoroughly explore larger volumes of soil in search of the things they need.

“ when plants are able to maximise the process of photosynthesis, the result is larger plants with larger yields.”


Carbon dioxide enrichment also affects the way a plant can tolerate high temperatures. At the highest air temperatures encountered by plants, CO2 enrich-ment can often mean the difference between living and dying. It typically enables plants to maintain positive carbon exchange rates in situations where plants growing under ambient CO2 levels would normally exhibit negative rates that ultimately lead to their demise. This is because enrichment affects tran-spiration by causing the stomata to partially close, which slows down the loss of water vapour into the air. Foliage on CO2-enriched plants is much thicker and slower to wilt than plants grown without it.

There are many alternatives to traditional CO2 pro-duction. The composting of organic matter results in CO2, so many large-scale greenhouses have composting rooms adjacent to the growing greenhouse. The CO2 is pumped from one room into the other with circula-tion fans. One drawback, however, is that composting so

close to your growing area can attract crop-damaging insects.The process from beer

making—that is, using sugar, water and yeast—has also been

used. Not a bad deal if you like to brew beer. The yeast eats the sugar

and releases alcohol and CO2 as by-products. If you are not into brewing

beer, you can simply mix brewer’s yeast and sugar with water. Keep in mind, though, it is important

to have the temperature of the water right. Water that is too hot will

kill the yeast and water that is too cold will not activate the yeast. The process

is simple and inexpensive, but it does have some drawbacks. Mainly, it can

present an odour problem and it is somewhat time-consuming as you have to remix the brew every four to five days.

co2 enrichment

Dry ice, which is frozen CO2, releases gas-eous CO2 when exposed to the atmosphere. Dry ice has no liquid stage, which makes it easy to work with and has little clean-up. However, dry ice can be expensive for long-term use and it is dif-ficult to store. Using insulated containers can slow the melting process, but it cannot be stopped.Mycelial-based production is a relatively new

way to introduce CO2. Mushrooms are more like humans in that they exhale CO2, and a non-fruiting strain of mycelium has been discovered that con-tinues to produce this compound for at least half a year (above-ambient CO2 levels can still be detected up to 16 months later). There is no maintenance or set-up with this option, and the low cost makes mycelial-based CO2 a good option.

As a grower, you know the time and energy you spend working your indoor garden is tremendous. Adding CO2 is not only a good idea, it’s necessary to have the most efficient growing area possible. Natural CO2 production, in particular, is a good choice. The ease of use and the reduced effect on the environment make the described options the green choice. They are also easy on your budget and your plants will love you for it.

“carbon-dioxide-enriched plants also have more flowering sites due to the increased branching effect.”

“ mushrooms are more like humans in that they exhale co2, and a non-fruiting strain of mycelium has been discovered that continues to produce this compound for at least half a year.”



7.

1.2.

3..

6.

4.

DO YOU KNOW?

Plants growing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photosynthesise. Plants can quickly use up the available CO2 and convert it to oxygen. When oxygen levels rise too high, stomata on the leaf’s surface close and plant growth virtually stops.

Reverse osmosis has become the gold standard of water treatment in hydroponics, removing blocky, unusable minerals, heavy metals, volatile organic compounds and a host of other toxic contaminants and preventing nutrient lockout. The most expensive parts of an RO filter are the membranes, and those with large gardens using lots of water know that replacing those membranes can add up.

Flood and drain systems have been around a long time. Ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natural flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well. High-quality flood and drain bucket systems are available from a variety of reputable suppliers and flood table reservoir combinations can be found in any hydro shop.

One of the reasons plants are able to respond to indoor CO2 enrichment in the face of significant shortages of light, water and nutrients is that carbon dioxide-enriched plants generally have more extensive and active root systems, which allows them to more thoroughly explore larger volumes of soil in search of the things they need.

Water softeners look a little like an oxygen tank, are available in several sizes and can use either sodium chloride (salt) or potassium chloride as a medium. They work by exchanging the hardness (that is, minerals) in water for either sodium or potassium using cationic exchange.

Ladybirds are a general predator and will eat pretty much any soft-bodied prey that crosses their path—spider mites, thrips, white flies, mealy bugs, scale and the eggs of all these predators are common sources of food. They especially like aphids and can consume thousands of these pests per week. It is because of these attributes that breeding ladybirds in indoor and outdoor gardens has become quite popular.

Making clones from plant cuttings is a method of asexual propagation. The cutting is taken from what is commonly referred to as a mother plant. A cutting will be genetically identical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same.

5.

8.Deep water culture hydroponic systems can be built to be as simple or as elaborate as you wish and can be tailored to fit any space. They are capable of growing nearly any crop from greens to gourds and are incredibly stingy with nutrients, using up to 70% less than a similar sized top drip system.

yOu tEll uS

Tell us a little about how your company started.The company, based in the Okanagan region of British Columbia, Canada, officially started about two years ago when Travis Rypkema, the creator of what is now known as the Enhancer, was looking to expand the product's presence. He contacted Josh Brazier, an old friend from high school, who was engulfed in the business world and always looking to expand his portfolio. Josh: The two of us formed TNB Naturals Inc., invested in a website and started a guerilla-like marketing plan aimed at anyone and everyone who would listen. Travis: We made some major changes to the packaging and started advertising. This led to a serious increase in sales and the TNB name began to gain some attention in the industry.

How did you come up with the idea for The Enhancer CO2 Dispersal Canister?Josh: This product was developed for growers by growers, and as a result, we're proud to say we haven't come across another CO2 product capable of delivering the high ppms the Enhancer has become known for. Sunlight Supply recently conducted a test on the Enhancer in a 1.2 m by 1.2 m sealed chamber. They were shocked to see it reach 5,000 ppm after the first day. At that point they stopped the test to exhaust the room and add a fan. When we saw the results, we knew we really had something

special. In a 3.7 m by 3.7 m by 2.4 m room, gardeners can expect to hit anywhere from 1,200 to 1,500 ppm depending on their set-up. The idea was all Travis—he experimented for years until he discovered the perfect formula. Travis: I felt there was a major void in the market. Sure, there were a few options for natural CO2, but none that hit the level of CO2 a plant needs to really notice a difference. The Enhancer is activated when water is added and the bottle is shaken, and the ingredients cause a reaction that puts off high amounts of CO2.

How is it different than other CO2 products?Josh: The Enhancer is user-activated, whereas other products are activated before the consumer buys them. It works off natural photosynthesis and actually decreases the amount of CO2 at night or when the lights are off. This is crucial because, as it says in The Grower’s handbook: “excess levels of CO2 during the lights-off period have been shown to be detrimental to yield.” Users know the CO2 will be at its maximum performance and gardeners don't need to wonder how long the product has been on the shelf or how long it's been putting off CO2. Travis: It's a natural way of delivering CO2 to your grow space, is much safer than propane or natural gas burners and emits no heat. Aside from that, adding CO2 increases a grower's final

The philosophy behind TNB Naturals Inc. is to develop safe, all-natural products that are highly effective and environmentally friendly. Co-owners Travis and Josh tell all about the company's premier product—the Enhancer—and why they call it the most effective, all-natural CO2 in the industry.


yield and improves the overall health of plants. One of the biggest selling features is the Enhancer's three-year shelf life, whereas many other products have a much shortly shelf life because they are already activated.

Is the Enhancer an environmentally friendly product?Josh: The Enhancer is made from a combination of all-natural, biodegradable ingredients and it's packaged in a recyclable bottle. When we first started, we were actually using recycled bottles, but as demand increased, that option was no longer feasible. Things sure have changed, but we'll never forget those days—we know where we started out and I think that really makes us appreciate where we are now.

Any new products coming down the line in the future? Josh: We have always told ourselves that TNB is going to become a major player in the world of indoor gardening and envisioned a product line of our own. We started with the Enhancer and had plants to release a second and third product shortly afterwards. But the ever-increasing demand for the Enhancer has resulted in a decision to prolong the release of any additional products and focus our efforts on bringing the Enhancer to gardens across the globe. That being said, we do plan to release a refill pack for the Enhancer sometime this year as well as a larger version of the product for those with bigger gardens.

How has the Enhancer been received in Australia so far?Travis: The Enhancer is gaining some serious attention in Australia as consumers across the country are being introduced to the product. We're still fairly new to the scene, but our Australian wholesaler has been doing an amazing job. We're now receiving calls and emails from retail stores and consumers on a daily basis and consistent, positive feedback from those who have tried the product. We always knew our biggest obsta-cle would be getting people to try the Enhancer and just like any other premium product, the results speak for themselves.

Any advice for beginner gardeners using your product?Josh: CO2 is one of the most important components of the growroom environment. Without adequate CO2 to process the light, water and nutrients, the light intended for your plants will literally bounce off of them. Travis: It is also important to remember that CO2 is heavier than air and will naturally sink to the ground. That being said,

the Enhancer should be placed slightly above your plants and in front of an oscillating fan if one is available. This allows CO2 to shower evenly over all the plants in your garden. Josh: Also, if growers are exhausting their rooms, the Enhancer should be placed as far away from the exhaust fan as possible, allowing plants to uptake the vast majority of the CO2 before it leaves the room.

“the enhancer is made from a combination of all-natural, biodegradable

ingredients and it’s packaged in a

recyclable bottle.”

Josh Brazier (left) and Travis Rypkema.


At A GlAnce

Company: The Grow ShopOwner: Matthew Dusting

Location: 5/5 Forge Dr. Coffs Harbour NSW 2450Phone: 02 6651 9992

Web: thegrowshop.com.auEmail: [email protected]

Motto: Hydroponics-Aquaponics-Nursery

When MAttheW DustinG, oWner of the GroW shop, first bouGht the business in noveMber 2012, it WAs cAlleD Dr vAn Der blooMs hyDroponics. he explAins the re-brAnDinG process, AnD hoW custoMer feeDbAck hAs helpeD hiM forGe A successful business.

Matthew Dusting


talKiNG ShOp

Family came before busi-ness ownership for Matthew Dusting, owner of The Grow Shop in Coffs Harbour. He was a stay-at-home dad bring-ing up two young children when he was approached to buy the shop in 2012. “I was approached by my ex-business partner, who was looking for someone with experience in the industry to go into business together,” explains Matthew. “I have been involved in hydroponics in Australia and overseas on and off for 20-plus years.”When the pair first bought

the hydroponics shop in November 2012, it was called Dr Van Der Blooms Hydroponics. The shop had been open for more than 10 years in a few different locations in the town, but when Matthew took over, the shop was already at its current location on Forge Drive. After working with his business partner for the first seven months and trading as Dr Van Der Blooms Hydroponics,

Matthew took over the business full-time in August 2013 and changed the name of the business to The Grow Shop in late 2013 to reflect the change in ownership.Matthew's first year in business was spent consolidating the

local clients that had been using the shop for years and listen-ing to their feedback on what they wanted in the store. “It was obviously an easier start-up process than opening a brand new store as we had the client base already,” he remembers. “We expanded product lines and restocked the store over the first year to meet our customers' requirements. Then by word of mouth new customers arrived to check out our new shop.” In the early days, Matthew and his business partner each

worked part-time in the store, cover-ing the six days per week the shop was open. Since striking out on his own, Matthew runs the store as a solo enter-prise with help from a casual worker. “When I bought the company, I re-branded it with our new logo to reflect the change of owners,” shares Matthew. “My logo for the business was created by

my brother from lightiseverything.com.au, who also created my website. I wanted a simple and effective logo that people would remember.” The company philosophy is simple and effective as well—to

provide exceptional customer service and knowledgeable assistance to growers. “We provide an after-hours service, delivery, stock is freighted out to customers and we listen to what customers want—not only in terms of different stock, but also to work within their budgets to help achieve a great outcome for their growing. We have a new website and adver-tise nationally as well as locally.” While customers are mainly locals, many people from different parts of the country drop in as the business is just a one-minute drive off the Pacific Highway at Coffs Harbour on the way to Sydney or Brisbane, Matthew adds. Two things Matthew struggled with at the beginning, as

do most new retail store owners, were keeping up the stock levels and ensuring the orders were just right and met all of the needs of customers. The Grow Shop carries a wide range of products and brands, including light kits, grow tents, propagation equipment, additives, carbon filters, centrifugal fans, cloning kits, growth enhancers, heat pads, lights, nutrients, reflectors and tanks. Matthew says the business is unique in that it carries a broad range of nutrients to meet every customer's needs. The Grow Shop is also branching off into the aquaponics aspect of the industry to meet local demand and Matthew is working closely with a local company on a joint venture to supply aquaponics kits to customers.The store's No. 1 strength is without a doubt customer ser-

vice, says Matthew. “We listen to the customers' needs, help out with growing techniques and pass on knowledge,” he says. “I believe that the hydroponic shop is the cornerstone of the industry, where everyone can look, learn, touch and share information about the industry and all the new products and innovations coming onto the market. Growroom design is what I enjoy most. When customers come into the shop with plans for their growrooms, I like to sit down and make a full project out it. I like to make sure that it is done right for a great outcome for the customer.”Providing good growing information, following it up with

great customer service and keeping up with the industry's latest innovations, products and methods make for a suc-cessful hydroponics business, says Matthew. When custom-

ers walk back in and tell Matthew that their grow-rooms are thriving, that's when he knows he's been successful. “That’s our end game right there,” he says. To learn more about The

Grow Shop, visit them at thegrowshop.com.au



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MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.

AUSTRALIA

ACTSouth Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609(02) 6239 2598

South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court, Belconnen ACT 2617(02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALESABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259(61) 2 4393 3131

ASE HydroponicsFactory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710

Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478(02) 6686 7321

Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552

Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264(02) 4973 5779

Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830(02) 6885 1616

Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826

Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795(02) 6337 1485

Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536(02) 4472 7165

Felanza - Hydroponics140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205(02) 9556 1494

General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Rd., Blacktown NSW 9676(02) 9676 8682

Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000

Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264(02) 4973 5179

Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750(02) 4732 2870

Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216(02) 9567 8841

Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400

Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199

Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845

Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121(02) 9869 3011

Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261(02) 4334 6955

Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287(02) 4965 6595

Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489

Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707

Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307

Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700

Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911

Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928

Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511

Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700

International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500

Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928

Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Northern Lights Hydroponics6/46 Through StreetSouth Grafton NSW [email protected]

Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599

Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 (02) 4423 3224

Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 (02) 4323 1599

Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 (02) 4423 0599

Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 (02) 6581 1272

Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 (02) 9636 7023

Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 (02) 9546 8642

Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 (02) 9568 2900

Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 (02) 9604 0469

The Grow Shop 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450(02) 6651 9992

Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 (07) 5524 8588

Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 (02) 6550 0221

Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 (02) 4028 6388

Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 1 800 661 475

Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 (02) 4225 8773

NORTHERN TERRITORYKatherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 (08) 8972 1730

QUEENSLANDA Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322

Advanced Horticulture Systems P/LShop 3, 11 A Venture DriveNoosaville QLD 4566(07) 5641 1256

Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222

Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777

Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551

D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324

E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501

Eye Lighting Australia Pty LtdPO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556

Frans Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355

Green Power Hydroponics 2/26 Strathvale Court, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133

Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206

H2 Gro Pty Ltd 2 Sonia Crt., Raceview QLD 4305 (07) 3294 3253

Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt., Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385

Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217

Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422

Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133

Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068

J&K Hydroponics 387 Progress RdWacol QLD 4076(07) 3271 6210

KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098

Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155

North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957

Northern Hydroponics383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884

Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road,Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016

Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250

Slacks Creek Hydroponics#13/22 Allgas St.Slacks Creek QLD 4217(07) 3299 1397

Sunstate Hydroponics10/13 Kerryl Street,Kunda Park QLD 4556 (07) 5445 3499

The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588

Tumbling Waters Hydroponics2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443

Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

SOUTH AUSTRALIA------------------------------------------

Advanced Garden Supplies3/8 Bredbo St

Lonsdale S.A. 5160(08) 8382 1191

------------------------------------------

Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800

Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700

Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066

Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665

Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133

Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022

Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105

D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399

Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100

Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004

Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122

Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777

Greener than Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noar-lunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596

Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100

Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899

Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455

Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222

Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461

Highland Grow & Flow 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455

Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000

Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880

Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000

Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022

Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200

Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323

Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463

Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788

Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011

Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813

New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100

Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008

Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133

Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172

Professional Hydroponics113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

Seaton Hydroponics129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08) 82682636

Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042

South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380

State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991


MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores are listed alphabetically by city in each state.

Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455

Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287

Urban Grow Solutions1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040

West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIAAdvanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588

Aqua HydroponicsRear 45 Burnett St.New Norfolk Tas 7140(03) 6294 9233

Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490

Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177

------------------------------------------

Green Acres Hydroponics 46-48 Bingalong Road, Mornington, TAS 7018

(03) 6245 1066sales@greenacreshydroponics.com.au------------------------------------------

Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088

Hydroponics Systems131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457

Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411

Organic Garden Supplies 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815

Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202

The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411

The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

VICTORIAAAA Lush Hydroponics 2-4 The Arcade, Junction Village, Melbourne Vic 3972

Albury Hydroponics/ Cappers Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 61 (02) 6024 4029

All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000

Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070

Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584

Bayside Hydroponics 5/9 Rutherford RoadSeaford, VIC 3198(03) 9775 0495

Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712

Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006

Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697

Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776

Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133

Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776

Discount Hydroponics 18 Princes Hwy.Doveton VIC 3177(03) 9792 2966

Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036

Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080

Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083

F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832

Gardensmart/AutoPot Systems 810 Springvale Road, Braeside Vic 3195 (03) 9701 8811

Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898

Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311

GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566

Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425------------------------------------------

Growlush Australia830-850 Princes Highway,

Springvale, Vic, 3171(03) 9546 9688

www.growlush.com ------------------------------------------

Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372

------------------------------------------

Hydroware1/54 Lara Way,

Campbellfield, Vic, 3061(03) 9357 8805

------------------------------------------

Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452

Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946

Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510

Hydroponic Central110 Dynon RoadWest Melbourne Vic. 3003(03) 9376 0447

Indoor Garden Company29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699

Inner City Hydroponics155 Dardbin RoadThornbury Vic 3071(03) 9480 1078

Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515

JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399

Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861

Just Hydroponics Hoppers Crossing 3/8 Motto CourtHoppers Crossing, 3029 (03) 8742 2830

Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140

Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055

Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256

Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300

One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177

Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143

Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575

Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 (61) 4187 81083

Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer St Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433

Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344

Simply Hydroponics Epping 10 Dilop Dr Epping Vic 3076 (03) 9408 4677

Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730

Simply Hydroponics - PakenhamFactory 6/3-11 Bate Close Paken-ham, Victoria 3810 (03) 5940 9047

Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422

Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (08) 264-3600

The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662

Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIAAccent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355

Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888

Aquaponics 295 Warton RdCanning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222

Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020

Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310

Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road,Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd., Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388

Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321

Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220

Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368

Hydroponic Xpress295 Warton RdCanning Vale WA 61551 800 640 222

Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Rd Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901

Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188

Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757

Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028

Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016

Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155

One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000

Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211

Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245

Richo’s 4 HydroUnit 7/22 Franklin Lane, Joondalup, WA 6027(08) 9301 4462

Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544

The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044

The Great IndoorsUnit 1/25 Gillam Dr.Kelmscott WA 6111(08) 9495 2815

Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400

The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473

The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495

The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232

Tru Bloomin Hydroponics7/36 Port Kembla Dr.Bibra Lake, WA 6163(08) 9434 5118

Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALANDEasy Grow New Lynn3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland (09) 827 0883

Easy Grow Manukau15/69 Wiri Station Road,Manukau, Auckland (09) 263 7560

Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth (06) 758 6661

Otaki Hydroponics1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki (06) 364 2206

House of Hydro221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington

Pet and Garden10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch (03) 377 2507

Grow and Brew14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland (09) 426 2095

Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui (07) 575 4090

Switched on GardenerNumber 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09) 438 0223

Switched on GardenerUnit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210

Switched on GardenerUnit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296

Switched on GardenerNumber 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351

Switched on GardenerNumber 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885

Switched on GardenerNumber 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265

Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106

Switched on GardenerNumber 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444

Switched on GardenerNumber 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336

Switched on GardenerNumber 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840

Switched on GardenerNumber 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913

Switched on GardenerNumber 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769

Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937

Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682

Switched on GardenerNumber 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980


MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores are listed alphabetically by city in each state.

StAY In thE Know wIth MAXIMUM YIELD’S E-nEwSMaximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup

Tacoma Expo REady To RollThe 2014 Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expo Tour kicks off next month in Tacoma, Washington, at the Greater Tacoma Convention and Trade Center April 5 and 6. Don’t miss the first opportunity to see the latest gear for 2014. For more information, special hotel rates and your complimentary VIP ticket go to indoorgardenexpo.com. Can't make it to the Tacoma expo? The tour also makes stops in Novi, Michigan (May 31 and June 1); San Francisco, California (July 26 and 27); and Boston, Massachusetts (Oct. 18 and 19).

pRoducT SpoTlighTWant to learn more about the latest products to hit the indoor gardening market? We’ve got the details at maximumyield.com. Check out the product spotlight section.

aRE you a FaN?Thank you to all those readers who have entered our I’m a Fan contest. We have enjoyed what our readers have had to say and we know the winners have loved spending their prizes at their favourite retail shops. You can win too. Tell us how much you enjoy reading Maximum Yield by going to maximumyield.com/features/contests/ i-m-a-fan or emailing [email protected] and you’ll be entered to win monthly $100 cash prizes to spend at your local grow store. We will choose a new winner every month and a grand prize winner will be drawn in December to receive $1,000 to spend at the indoor garden shop of their choice.

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aSk aN ExpERTGot a gardening question? We can help you get an answer. Every month, Maximum Yield writers answer pressing growing questions from readers. Check out recent Ask the Experts questions at maximumyield.com/features/asktheexperts and then email your own question to [email protected] or fill out the online form.

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Why gRoW iN a gREENhouSE?Although expensive to set up, a successful greenhouse production can deliver 10 times the yield of an indoor grow space. Everything is faster and more magnified in an under-the-sun operation, and this can be a great thing if you learn a few key skills. Temperature management, water management and simple observation are the best places to start.

bENEFicial ElEmENTS FoR plaNT gRoWThWhile science has identified 17 essential elements required for plant growth, plants have the ability use a number of other substances and elements. Plant matter contains more than 60 elements, and experts have much to learn about crop nutrition and how growers can best use hydroponic nutrient formulations to their full advantage.

moRE EFFiciENT gRoW lighTS Growing with multiple lights in the grow space gives growers better options, like perpetual or staggered harvests, side-by-side comparisons and bigger production. However, while many growers would like to take advantage of these technically advanced options, meeting the electrical requirements can be tricky.

newse

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