Manicure

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Contents Page 1 Introduction

Page 2 Contra-indications

Page 8 Preparation of the Manicure Work Area

Page 16 Treatable Nail and Cuticle Conditions

Page 18 Manicure Procedure

Page 24 Buffing

Page 26 Filing the Free Edge

Page 30 Cuticle Work

Page 33 Hand and Nail Treatments

Page 35 Hand and Forearm Massage

Page 42 Nail Painting

Page 47 Aftercare and Homecare Advice

Page 50 Muscles of the Arm and Hand

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Preparation of the Manicure Work Area

Consider the environment where you will be carrying out your manicure treatment:

Temperature - this should be comfortable for both you and your model.

Adequate lighting - the area must be well lit, you may need extra lighting such as a magnifying lamp or a desk lamp.

Ventilation - the room should be well ventilated, allowing fresh air to enter and odours to be dispelled.

Music - relaxing, background music will add to the ambiance.

When setting up your working area, ensure all your materials, tools and products are in easy reach.

Note

When preparing your work area, place your products in the order that they will be used, this will help you to remember your treatment routine and ensure that you reflect a professional, tidy and organised image.  

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The following table explains the tools used within a manicure treatment and the effects upon the skin and nail of incorrect use.

Equipment Purpose for Use Incorrect use of Manicure Tools

Emery Board Has 2 sides, the coarse side is used for reducing length and the fine side is used for shaping the nail.

Filing the nail plate with a see-saw action can cause the free edge to split, peel and fray. This is due to friction which creates heat and causes the layers of the nail plate to separate.

Orange Stick Should be tipped at the end with cotton wool.

Used to apply products, clean under the free edge, ease back cuticles and remove nail varnish.

If not tipped or too much pressure is applied the cuticle can be torn and the hyponychium separated from the nail plate.

N.B. Hyponychium is the protective seal found under the free edge.

Nail Scissors Used to shorten nail length.

If used incorrectly can cause the nail to bend against its natural curve causing discomfort and bruising.

Cut along the free edge with a succession of small snips to prevent this from happening.

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Cuticle Knife

Used to remove excess cuticle stuck to the nail plate.

Scratching and thinning of the nail plate and tearing of the cuticle.

To prevent this, the blade must be wet, flat and pointing towards the centre of the nail plate.

Cuticle Nippers

Used to remove dead skin and hangnails from the cuticle area.

Ensure you do not cut into live tissue as this will cause bleeding, do not pull any tissue as this will result in tearing of the skin and cuticle and increase the risk of infection.

Overuse can cause the cuticle to grow back thicker.

Manicure Bowl

Add warm water and a soaking solution to soften the cuticles and wash off products.

A mild soap solution can be used.

Do not overfill and place on a level surface to prevent spillage.

Hoof Stick

Used for gently pushing back the cuticles.

If used with too much force it could cause the cuticle to tear.

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Manicure Procedure

1. Check for contra-indications.

2. Wash your hands with soap and dry thoroughly to minimise the risk of cross-infection, do this in front of the model.

3. Remove all jewellery from your model’s hands. (Your model may wish to keep on a wedding band).

4. Wipe both the model’s hands with a hand sanitiser. Analyse the condition of the nails, cuticles and skin and re-check for any contra-indications.

5. Remove nail varnish from both

hands; use a new piece of cotton wool for each hand.

6. Working on the model’s left

hand using the fine side of the emery board, file the nails from the edge to the centre in one direction only. Bevel the nails if they are split.

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7. Buff each nail from cuticle to free edge 6 times to seal the free edge.

8. Apply cuticle massage cream

with a dressed orange stick, massage thoroughly into the cuticles.

9. Soak the nails in a bowl of warm water which contains hand soak.

10. Repeat stages 6 - 9 on the right hand.

11. Remove the left hand from the water and dry.

12. Apply cuticle remover with a dressed orange stick and work around the cuticle area using circular movements to push back the cuticle.

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Filing the Free Edge

Test your Knowledge – Answers are in Italic

State the reasons for filing the free edge of the nail.

To smooth the edge and surfaces of the nails.

To give shape and definition to the nails.

To reduce the length of the nails.

Note

Always file at a 45º angle using even strokes. Never use a see-saw action as this causes friction which generates heat and causes the nail to dry out and split.

When deciding the length and shape of your model’s nails you need to take into consideration the following factors:

The natural shape of the nails e.g. oval, square.

The length of the nails.

Condition and strength of the nails, dry, brittle, flaking or thin.

Shape of the hands and fingers, long/short, thick/slender.

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Nail Shapes

The chart below describes the appearance of different nail shapes stating their advantages and disadvantages.

Nail Shapes

Appearance/Advantages/Disadvantages

Square

A perfect square shape. A popular shape, however, the corners provide a weak point and break easily. Very good for people with short nails who do not want a rounded shape, but they can make the hands appear stubby.

Oval

The tip is softly rounded. This is the strongest nail shape therefore, the most ideal. This shape can give the illusion of lengthening the fingers. Suitable for longer length nails.

Round

This shape is ideal for people who require a shorter nail length. This is a popular shape for men and for those who must maintain a shorter length due to their occupation.

Stiletto/ Pointed

This is a high fashion shape. The tip of the nail is shaped to a drastic point. The point is a weak area and prone to breaking as there is no side support. This shape is more suitable for artificial nails.

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Hand and Forearm Massage Routine

1. Effleurage - Stroking from the fingers to the elbow using alternate hands - 6 times.

2. Petrissage - Thumb kneading to the forearm using both thumbs - 6 times.

3. Petrissage - Thumb kneading to

the wrist, back of the hand and fingers - 3 times.

4. Frictions - Thumb frictions to the

back of the hand - 3 times.

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Nail Painting

Before you paint the nails, they need to be grease free - this is known as squeaking and is achieved by wiping over the nail plate with a cotton pad soaked with varnish remover. Wipe under the free edge (if long enough) with a tipped orange stick or cotton bud also soaked with varnish remover. If you do not squeak the nail plate the varnish will:

not go on evenly.

will not adhere to the nail plate properly.

will not last as long.

Base Coat, Varnish Colour and Top Coat Application

The application of the base coat, varnish colour and top coat are the same. You should apply the varnish using no more than four brush strokes, applying no more than four coats in total.

The first stroke is applied down the middle of the nail plate.

The second is applied sweeping around one side and towards the free edge.

The third sweeps around the opposite side towards the free edge.

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