Introduction to Manicure

You will need..

• Pen/highlighter• Manicure package• Nail file

Lesson aims

• Introduce Manicures.• Reasons and effects of a manicure.• The importance of consultation. • Recognising contra-indication.• How to carry out filing.• Enamaling the nail.• Homecare advise • Conta-actions

• The word Manicure means what in Latin?

• manus for "hand," cura for "care."

• Manicure

• The nail industry in recent years has grown fast. There are opportunities to set up nails bar and provide services in a range if settings that provide simple treatments with maximum benefits such as: mobile, in a salon, home based technician, hair dressing salon, sports centre, cruise liner, at airports, media and fashion, providing simple treatments with maximum benefits. The best possible way to maintain and preserve the health of the nail is to seek a professional manicurist (fingernails technician) and pedicurist (toenails technician).

• Manicure treatments include –

• Consultation and contra-indication checks • Sanitising and cleansing the hands and nails• Cutting and filing the nails to the required length

and shape• Applying cuticle cream and soaking the nails to

soften the surrounding tissue• Cuticle work• Massage• Buffing• Nail enamel application including base coat,

coloured or French enamel and top coat• Luxury treatments may also be provided

• Reasons for manicure treatments –

• The procedure frees the nail wall and cuticle from the nail plate thus avoiding nail conditions such as hangnail/agnail and pterygium.

• Infection is prevented.• Minor nail damage is prevented from worsening.• Fragile and brittle nail conditions can be

improved.• The skin is improved, delaying the signs of

ageing.• To relax the client and make them feel pampered.• To make the hands and nails look attractive.• To present the hands and nails well.• The nail is kept smooth and shapely.

• Effects of manicure treatments – – Erythema – Vaso-dilation of blood

vessels occurs due to increased circulation causing reddening of the skin

– Improved appearance of hands – nails are shapely, cuticles are tidy

– Relaxation

• Contra-indications to Manicure treatments • Before commencing with the treatment, the

therapist should complete a consultation card.

• This will enable the therapist to assess the client needs and discuss their requirements and expectations and allow the therapist to make recommendations for treatment.

• The consultation process will also allow the therapist to visually and verbally screen out any contra- indications.

What is a contra-indication

• A contra-indication is a reason, a symptom, or a situation that prevents all or part of the treatment from being safely carried out.

• Classifications of contra-indications are – • With medical, GP or specialist permission• Contra-indications that prevent the

treatment (Can-not treat)• Contra-indications that restrict the

treatment (Work around)

• With medical, GP or specialist permission –

• Haemophilia- is a rare bleeding disorder in which the blood doesn't clot normally.

• Medical oedema-is a condition of abnormally large fluid volume in the circulatory system or in tissues between the body's cells which causes exsessive swelling.

• Arthritis- is the swelling of one or more joints in the body.

• Acute rheumatism.

• Nervous conditions.• Recent hand operations.• Diabetes.• Inflamed nerve.• Undiagnosed pain

• Preventing treatments – – Fungal infections– Bacterial infections– Viral infections– Parasitic infections– Severe nail separation– Severe eczema– Severe psoriasis

– Severe bruising

• Preventing treatments – – Fungal infections-Both fingernails and

toenails are susceptible to the infection, which usually manifests as discoloration and thickening of the nail and crumbling edges. The condition most commonly occurs in toenails. Between six and eight percent of the adult population suffers from nail fungus infection.

• Who gets nail fungus infections? • Nail fungus infections are more common in men

than women and in the elderly than the young. • one's risk of nail fungal infection include the Slow

growing nails • A family history of fungal infection (genetics) • Heavy perspiration • Humid or moist work environment • Wearing socks and shoes that prevent ventilation • Walking barefoot in damp public places

(swimming pools, gyms and shower rooms) • Previous injury or infection to the skin or nail • Diabetes, AIDS, circulation problems, a weakened

immune system • Tight footwear with crowding of toes

• What are the symptoms of nail fungus infections?

• Nails that are infected with fungus typically are thickened, brittle, crumbly, ragged, distorted, dull, and darker or yellowish in colour. A patient may also experience infected nails separate from the nail bed. Sometimes, nail fungal infections result in pain in the toes or fingertips, and they may even emit a slight foul odor.

• HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS• DO NOT TREAT

• Bacterial infection

• Injury or infection to a finger • Infection can range from mild to potentially serious.

Often these infections start out small and are relatively easy to treat. Failure to properly treat these infections can result in permanent disability or loss of the finger.

• Early recognition and proper treatment of the following main finger infections will help prevent most of the serious outcomes.

• Paronychia is an infection of the finger that involves the tissue at the edges of the fingernail. This infection is usually superficial and localized to the soft tissue and skin around the fingernail. This is the most common bacterial infection seen in the hand.

• Bacterial infections – how would you know you had a bacterial infection? Number one, it probably would hurt. It would cause you pain. There would be drainage. The nail bed itself would be red. There may be some whiteness around the nail indicating there’s pus. If you have a bacterial infection, it needs antibiotics.

• The difference between a fungal infection and a bacterial infection is the cause. A fungal infection is caused by fungi, whereas a bacterial infection is caused by bacteria. Fungus must be treated by fungicide. Bacterial infection requires antibiotics.

Bacterial is caused by a kind of bacteria in your body easily spreadViral is The easiest spread usually airborneFungal is a disease caused by a spore or fungus

• Restricting treatment – • Minor nail separation• Minor eczema• Minor psoriasis• Severely bitten nails• Damaged nails• Broken bones

Re-cap

• With medical, GP or specialist permission

• Contra-indications that prevent the treatment

• Contra-indications that restrict the treatment

• The consultation process should also include noting the natural nail condition and shape, planning an appropriate treatment for the client’s expectations and needs and discussing any homecare advice.

• It is important of the therapist to understand when to encourage clients to seek medical advice – to receive advice and treatment for their conditions

• It is important not to name specific contra-indications when referring to a G.P as a therapist is not qualified to diagnose

• contra-indications,• has no medical training • and it could alarm the client.

• Filing the nail

• Nails are shaped using emery boards, metal nail files will tear apart the nail layers. Emery boards are about 7 – 8 inch strips coated with emery iron oxide.

• Always file the nails to suit the clients existing nail shape and hands.

• It is important to remember that when filing and shaping the nails that it is the sides which give the nail its strength and if this is filed away the nail becomes weak.

• Also filing the nails to a point will weaken the nails. • Always file the nail from the sides to the centre

at a 45° angle, filing to and fro will cause the nail to split and break. This is because the friction is causing heat within the nail plate thus drying out the moisture which assists in holding the nail plate together.

• Nails can be grouped into 5 basic shapes:• Round.• Oval.• Square.• Pointed.• Almond.

• When deciding on the nail shapes there are several factors that must be taking into consideration:

• The clients preference.• Clients occupation.• Clients natural nail shape

• How to file-• Hold emery board at a 45 degree angle under the

nail plate.• Use the file in one direction only i.e. side to

centre, side to centre• Use long light stokes so that there is less stress

on the nails.• Do not file back and forth as this separates and

weakens the nails causing them to split. It also causes friction and dries up the moisture leading to flaking at the tip.

• The shape of the free edge should be the same as that of the cuticle to attain a balanced look.

• Nail enamel application

• When deciding on nail enamel, the therapist should consider the following:

• The clients preference.

• The condition of the nails – short or damaged nails are most suited to darker shades to diminish the appearance. Long nails suit subtle shades as well as dark shades.

• Balance the nail colour with skin tones – warm skin tones need cool shades of colour (blue and yellow), pale, sallow skin colour needs cool pink undertone to add warmth.

• Time of year – dark rich shades work best in winter. Salmon pink, reds, coral and pastels colours work best in summer.

• Having decided on the correct • colour with the client, • ensure the varnish is at the right consistency,

if not; thin it with an appropriate solvent. • Do not use varnish remover as they may

contain oil and water which will prevent hardening.

• Always apply base coat, if need be a ridge filler base may be used or a nail hardener if the nail are weak.

• Next 2 – 3 coats of coloured enamel are applied and then top coat if required.

Base coat

• Always use a good quality base coat specific to its purpose.

• Base coat stays tacky ensuring good adhesion of coloured enamel.

• Preserves the life of enamel application.

• Contains more resin than coloured enamel.

• Apply in 3 strokes (small nail) up to 6 strokes (larger

Coloured enamel

• Used to add gloss and colour to natural nails.• Cream polish contains insoluble colours mixed

with iron oxide and titanium dioxide.

• Pearl polishes get their effect from reflective transparent crystals of guanine.

• Polishes vary in consistency and may require from one application up to as many as 5 applications to achieve a professional result.

• Apply in 3 strokes (small nail) up to 6 strokes (larger nail).

Top coat

• Used to seal polish in.• To provide a protective

cover for natural/coloured nails.

• Apply in 3 strokes (small nail) up to 6 strokes (larger nail).

Possible faults -

• Chipping varnish..• Due to flaky nail plate.• No base coat used.• Polish applied too thinly.• Oil/moisture left on nail plate.• Varnish force dried

• Peeling nail varnish…• Nail surface incorrectly prepared.• Polish too thick.• Incorrect base coat.• Application on top of wet coat.• Oil and moisture present.

• Bubbling nail varnish..

• Nail surface incorrectly prepared.

• Polish too thick.• Enamel drying

products were used between coats

Re-cap