Maluku & Tanimbars 2015

Ambon, Buru, Seram, Boano, Haruku, Kai’s, and Yamdena Black-chinned Monarch, Boano

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Maluku & Tanimbars 2015:

Ambon, Buru, Seram, Boano, Haruku, Kai Islands and Yamdena Nov 2015

Introduction

This report details a 24 day trip around parts of Eastern Indonesia, which had the aim of seeking out

as many Southern Maluku (Moluccas) endemic and range restricted species as possible, also

incorporating the Tanimbars – geographically part of the Lesser Sundas, which are currently easiest to

reach by air from Ambon.

The trip was undertaken with Shaun Coyle, Tim Sykes, and Jon Gallagher. Early logistics and

itinerary pre-planning came from Shaun, with input from the rest of us. The trip follows on from

Eastern Indonesian trips to New Guinea in Oct 2015, and Sulawesi & Northern Maluku in 2014.

Pre-trip Logistics

The various trip reports posted on Cloudbirders (www.cloudbirders.com) for the region were accessed

prior to the trip. Another top resource, the Birds Indonesia website (www.burung-nusantara.org), was

unfortunately hacked, and taken off line for much of 2015, but it now appears to be making a

comeback. The general information for birding sites on a number of the islands visited are provided

on this website, which was particularly useful for providing information on getting to Boano Island.

Correspondence with Nick Brickle prior to the trip provided GPS locations for some birding sites.

The most useful trip reports were:

Henk Hendricks (2013), Moluccas 15 July to 14 August 2013;

George Wagner (2009), Islands of the Lesser Sundas and Remote Moluccas, 12 August – 7

October and 27 October – 7 November 2009

Jon Hornbuckle (2004) (2009) and (2012) Tanimbars, Seram, and Buru respectively;

Another recent report: Greg Roberts (2014) Southern Molucca and Tanimbar Islands,

Indonesia – 1st – 22nd March 2014 provides interesting detail on sightings, but little detailed

site information.

Other trip reports on Cloudbirders were also downloaded and used for background reading and for

useful information on sites and logistics.

Reports from bird tour companies provided additional information. The two main tour companies to

have included the Moluccas as part of their portfolios in the recent past are Birdtour Asia and

Birdquest, with the latest trip reports linked through Cloudbirders.

Bird calls were also obtained from Xeno Canto (www.xeno-canto.org), which is an amazing resource.

Thanks are extended to all above who have provided information and/or resources.

Field Guides – A new Indonesian field guide is in the offing, but we had to make do with old

resources for this trip

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A Note on Timing

November is historically the start of the ‘winter’ monsoon season for Southern Maluku. However this

is often a dry monsoon, particularly the further south travelled, with winds bringing less predictable

rain showers. The Tanimbars have an even drier climate.

During the trip we experienced no heavy rain at all; and all locations, with the exception of north east

Seram, were extremely dry and suffering from a long period of drought from the 2015 El Niño event.

The only rain noted during the trip was an hour in Bara, Buru one afternoon; light downpours in the

afternoons in north west Seram; light rain during our evening on Haruku island; and finally some rain

on our final day in Ambon – a non-birding day.

Locations

Overview Map

The map below shows the general locations visited:

(1) Ambon

(2) Yamdena, Tanimbars

(3) (a) Kai Kecil & (b) Kai Besar

(4) Buru

(5) Seram

(6) Boano

(7) Haruku

GPS locations

GPS files for birding sites and logistics are provided as a .KMZ file here for each Island.

The locations of these files can also be seen on this Google Maps page.

We used the free android App Navigator available on a tablet/smart phone as a Sat Nav and GPS.

The base map for Indonesia is downloadable so can be used off line and although it doesn’t include

every road on these remote islands, was a great resource to getting us to the locations.

A detailed itinerary is provided in the table below.

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1

2

3b

4

5

6

7

Obi

Aru

New Guinea

Map 1: Locations of sites visited

3a

Misool

Islands Visited:

(1) Ambon (2) Yamdena, Tanimbars (3) (a) Kai Kecil & (b) Kai Besar (4) Buru (5) Seram (6) Boano (7) Haruku

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Itinerary

Date am pm eve Accom Location

03/11/2015 Flight to Saumlaki Around Saumlaki Saumlaki Penginapan Ratulel Tanimbars

04/11/2015 Kebun 45 Streambed Old Logging Track Old Logging Track Penginapan Ratulel Tanimbars

05/11/2015 Batu Putih Road Batu Putih Road Batu Putih Road Penginapan Ratulel Tanimbars

06/11/2015 Old Logging Track Kebun 45 Streambed Saumlaki Penginapan Ratulel Tanimbars

07/11/2015 Flight To Ambon Ambon - cancelled flight Ambon - cancelled flight Paradisia Transit Hotel Ambon

08/11/2015 Flight to Kai, boat to Kai Besar Kai Besar - boat to Kai Kecil 3pm Limestone Coral Forest Coaster Cottages, Ohoililir Kai Islands

09/11/2015 Limestone Coral Forest Limestone Coral Forest Limestone Coral Forest Coaster Cottages, Ohoililir Kai Islands

10/11/2015 Danau Ablel, Ngilngof Flight to Ambon Overnight Ferry to Buru Ferry Kai Islands

11/11/2015 Waspait Wamlana Logging Road lower section Waspait Buru Island Resort Buru

12/11/2015 Wamlana Logging Road Wamlana Logging Road Waspait Buru Island Resort Buru

13/11/2015 Wamlana Logging Road Wamlana Logging Road Waspait Buru Island Resort Buru

14/11/2015 Waspait Waspait Waspait beach Buru Island Resort Buru

15/11/2015 Wamlana Logging Road Wamlana Logging Road Waspait Buru Island Resort Buru

16/11/2015 Waspait Bara Bara Bara Village Head house Buru

17/11/2015 Bara Drive to Namlea Overnight Ferry to Ambon Ferry Buru

18/11/2015 Ferry to Seram drive to Masika Boano Island Drive to Waipirit Penginapan Kawi Aseh Seram

19/11/2015 Drive to Sawai Sawai Lowland Forest Sawai Lowland Forest Penginapan Lisar Bahari Seram

20/11/2015 Sawai Lowland Forest Boat to Palau Loesaolat Sawai Lowland Forest Penginapan Lisar Bahari Seram

21/11/2015 Trans Seram Highway Trans Seram Highway Sawai Lowland Forest Penginapan Lisar Bahari Seram

22/11/2015 Trans Seram Highway Trans Seram Highway Sawai Lowland Forest Penginapan Lisar Bahari Seram

23/11/2015 Sawai Lowland Forest Boat to Palau Loesaolat Sawai Lowland Forest Penginapan Lisar Bahari Seram

24/11/2015 Trans Seram Highway Ferry to Ambon Kota Ambon Penginapan The Royal Seram

25/11/2015 Kota Ambon Tulehu Road Kailolo, Haruku Penginapan The Royal Ambon

26/11/2015* Kota Ambon Kota Ambon Kota Ambon Penginapan The Royal Ambon

27/11/2015 Kota Ambon Flight to Jakarta Ambon * A spare day we didn’t need as logistics ran fairly smoothly, could have been used for eg an extra day on Buru, or searching for ‘Kai’ Boobook on Kai Besar

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Costs

The currency in Indonesia is the Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) at the time of visit the exchange rate was

roughly £1 = IDR20,895 through an ATM (excluding charges), or about IDR20,000 at a money

changer.

Flights

This trip followed on from a trip to West Papua, so we arrived in Ambon via Sorong. Costs given are

to/from Ambon. A total of four internal flights were booked using the carrier Lion Air (return to

Tanimbars and return to Kais). The total cost of the internal flights came to £132 (averaging £33 per

flight). I used an intermediary website to book all my internal flights: www.tiket.com/. This was

efficient and I had e-tickets within 24 hours for all flights booked.

Ferries, Hire Cars, Taxis, Public Bemos (mini buses), Hotels etc

The costs are provided in the relevant sections of the trip report, along with a daily breakdown of all

costs in the excel sheet here (except food, which probably cost us on average IDR30,000 for a main

meal with drink).

Visas and Airport Tax

Indonesia have for now abolished the costs for Visa on Arrival, at least if you arrive in the country

through Jakarta International Airport. So, if your stay is 30 days or less, as a UK citizen (and

presumably other nationalities), you can come into the country for free. The extended visa still costs

and is obtainable from the Indonesian Embassy in London, valid for 60 days (cost £40 but inc.

postage charges & special delivery SAE = £53).

Airport taxes are now sensibly included in the price of your ticket as of April 2015, so any tickets

purchased after this date should mean no requirement to pay a tax on departure.

After spending time in Papua this was a comparatively inexpensive trip at around £600 for three and a

half weeks (Ambon to Ambon).

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Selected Diary

The sections below describe trip highlights.

(1) Ambon

Introduction

Ambon served as our base for negotiating the other islands in the southern Moluccas and for the

Tanimbar Islands. After visiting each island we would find ourselves back in Ambon either via air or

by ferry. Very little birding was done on Ambon itself, with a single midday visit to some forest to

pick up the endemic White-eye at the very end of the trip the only birding undertaken.

Logistics

The map below show locations of the main transport hubs and Ambon City (Kota Ambon).

We stayed in two locations on Ambon, the Hotel “The Royal” in central Kota Ambon (twin room =

IDR175,000 per night) and the Hotel Paradisia (a transit hotel close to the airport arranged by Lion

Air due to a cancelled and re-scheduled flight).

Ferry locations vary according to end destination. Taxi drivers and Bemos know where all these

ports/harbours are, with the exception of the speedboat charter to Haruku Island. If you get stuck

finding this location, seek out a local taxi at the main Tulehu Ferry Port or Tulehu itself:

The overnight ferry to Buru = Galala Ferry Port, This port is on the main road from the

airport to Kota Ambon, to the east of Kota Ambon and just east of the new road bridge being

constructed across the bay to reduce the drive time from the airport. The overnight ferry to

Buru left at 8pm;

The day ferry to western Seram (to reach Boano Island) = Liang Ferry Port. This port

on the north east edge of Liang is served by a car ferry that seemed to run regularly through

the day;

The day ferry to southern Seram (to reach Manusela National Park) = Tulehu Ferry

Port. This port is on the northern edge of Tulehu and can be used to reach Amahai Harbour

south of the town of Masohi;

Private Charter Speedboats (to reach Haruku Island) = Tulehu Speedboats. The

location of this harbour is not easy to find, and it is part hidden behind a row of buildings and

shops. There seemed a number of options for small speedboat charter across to Haruku.

The single birding location we visited on Ambon was the Tulehu Road. This is easy to locate as the

inland road just south of the entrance to the main Tulehu Port, which is at the northern end of the town

of Tulehu. Take the road inland (off the main coastal road) until it bears left then turn off this road

and follow the smaller road heading straight on, rising a little into degraded forest and farmland (see

Map below). We birded the first 2km of this smaller road, walking back to the port from a drop-off

point.

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Highlights:

Ambon White-eye – We got a private charter Bemo from Kota Ambon to take us to Tulehu

(IDR200,000) and then directed the driver to about 3km along the Tulehu Road past suitable White-

eye habitat, dropping us off and allowing us to walk back to Tulehu. The White-eye was seen easily

along this road.

Other species recorded included - Pacfic Baza, (Eastern) Superb Fruit Dove, Olive-backed

(Black-throated) Sunbird. Birding this site at midday during the lowest activity no doubt reduced

the species list here.

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Map 2: Ambon

Kota Ambon Airport

Galala

Tulehu

Liang

Tulehu Road

Ferry route to Waripirit, Seram

Ferry route to

Namlea, Buru

Ferry route to

Amahai, Seram

Kailolo

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Map 3: Tulehu Road, Ambon

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Access trail to waterfall

Road junction – main road heads left

Forest Patches

River crossing

Mostly Plantation

Tulehu Ferry Port

Main road through

Tulehu

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(2) Yamdena, Tanimbars

Introduction

A fairly remote eastern outpost of the Lesser Sundas geographically, but politically it is part of

Maluku province; and with daily flights from Ambon with Lion Air and Garuda Indonesia, it is

currently relatively easy to get to. There are a number of endemics and regional endemic species that

can be seen on the main island of Yamdena.

The Tanimbars are ecologically different to the southern Moluccas, and have a drier climate and much

lower humidity. The main island of Yamdena was originally covered in lowland and hill forest, but in

southern Yamdena at least areas of this are actively being logged, leaving a patchwork of farmland,

plantations, secondary scrub and remnant forest areas. The endemic species on the whole appear to

currently be coping with loss of primary forest, and most can be found in degraded habitats adjacent

to main roads.

Logistics

There are now 3-4 hotels in central Saumlaki. We stayed in the most basic the Penginapan Ratalul,

which did have A/C rooms, but was otherwise very basic. The rooms were IDR200,000 per night for

a twin. The family that run the hotel were very friendly, and although they couldn’t speak any

English, we managed to arrange a hire car with driver for three days through the hotel. This was at a

cost of IDR700,000 per day.

We birded along two roads; the main road out of Saumlaki heading north, and a road heading off this

that goes west to the small coastal village of Batu Putih (the Batu Putih road). This latter road is

known as Yonif 734 (an Army regiment) in some reports, although this army regiment has now

moved onto the main road.

The main road north of Saumlaki is now a metalled road, and the Batu Putih road was in the process

of being metalled during our visit. It is possible to get to most of the birding sites in 30-40 minutes

from the hotels in Saumlaki negating the need to stay out of the town if you have your own transport.

We visited the dry streambed known as Kebun 45 about 22km along the main road (just past the km

marker) and a vehicle track a little further along on the left that heads into logged forest which we

assumed was the Old Logging Track mentioned in previous trip reports (see George Wagner’s

report). The farm buildings at Kebun 45 looked to be unused at present, and were not obvious from

the main road, using the gps reference through the sat nav was therefore very useful. A small trail is

still accessible heading east along the stream from the road bridge and boarded entrance to the farm.

We birded the first 1km of this trail, and this was surprisingly productive given the small amount of

wooded habitat present.

On the Batu Putih road we birded along various roadside areas, including briefly the forest patch

mentioned in Henk Hendrick’s report, just past the army barracks – although this patch had a

settlement in it and road works were causing further disturbance here. We also travelled further along

this stretch of road where a number of logging tracks lead off into more extensive partly logged and

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burnt forest. One we tried, that we named Logging Track 451, led to a large active logging camp

after about 2km.

In Saumlaki there are patches of mangrove around a new harbour expansion, and some green areas

around the edges of the town, with trees and scrub on a small ridge east of the town. These held a few

of the island’s commoner endemics, but nothing that cannot be seen at the sites mentioned above. We

also checked out the Old Saumlaki Airport one lunchtime, and it was possible to drive along the

runway. This was very dry, maybe drier than usual due to the drought conditions in 2015.

Highlights:

Fawn-breasted Thrush – Seen at the three main birding locations. Along the Batu Putih Road

recorded mid-morning foraging in leaf litter at the edge of the road. Along the Old Logging Track

recorded early morning about 500m from the main road foraging along the track. At Kebun 45

recorded twice in flight only, once along the dry streambed trail and once by the main road.

Slaty-backed Thrush – Seen at both Kebun 45 and the Old Logging Track. Calling birds were taped

in, remaining in the canopy, usually with an immediate response to playback. A bird also seen

without playback in the canopy above the entrance to the dry streambed at Kebun 45.

Elegant Pitta (vigorsii) – Heard only. Calling only at dusk along the Old Logging Track, but

common here by voice. Calling also early morning along Logging Track 451 on the Batu Putih road,

again appeared common by voice. Also a single bird heard at dusk along the dry streambed at Kebun

45. Form vigorsii on distribution and call structure.

Tanimbar (Moluccan) Boobook – Seen once during the daytime at Kebun 45 along the start of the

dry streambed trail. Heard along the Old Logging Track and Logging Track 451 on the Batu Putih

road, but not very responsive to playback during our visit.

Tanimbar Corella – Seen at Kebun 45, the Old Logging Track and along the Batu Putih road,

although mostly in flight. One perched bird was noted along the Old Logging Track.

Blue-streaked Lory – Recorded along the Old Logging Track and Kebun 45. However the best

views were along the Batu Putih road, including feeding birds along Logging Track 451.

Wallace’s Fruit Dove & Rose-crowned Fruit Dove (xanthogaster) – Both species appeared

widespread at all main locations. Rose-crowned was also noted in Saumlaki itself, whilst Wallace’s

was only noted in more forested habitats.

Yellow-eyed (Elegant/Blue-tailed) Imperial Pigeon & Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon – Yellow-

eyed Imperial Pigeon was common by voice in more forested areas. Pink-headed was seen along the

Old Logging Track.

White-naped (Leotoe) Monarch and Black-bibbed Monarch – White-naped Monarch was

relatively frequently recorded in most locations; Black-bibbed was recorded at Kebun 45.

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Tanimbar (Rufous-chested) Flycatcher – A pair seen on the dry streambed trail at Kebun 45

Tanimbar Bush Warbler – Seen at Kebun 45 along the streambed trail, and along the Batu Putih

road. Calling birds were typically taped down to less than one metre, but remained mostly hidden,

with just brief very close views, and flight views.

Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher – Seen at Kebun 45 on the roadside, and along the Batu Putih road.

Tricoloured Parrotfinch – Seen along the Batu Putih road foraging in open scrub habitats

Pied (Little) Bronze Cuckoo (crassirostris) – Seen from the roadside at Kebun 45. Sometimes this

form is split from the Little Bronze Cuckoo group.

White-throated Needletail – Seen at dawn from the roadside at Kebun 45 on the 04/11/2015

Wallacean Cuckooshrike – seen on the Old Logging Track and Logging Track 451

Torresian (Tanimbar) Crow – Seen by JG on the main road past Kebun 45

Other species of note recorded – Dusky Cuckoo-dove, Pacific Emerald Dove (timorensis), Rufous

Night Heron, Pied Heron, White-faced Heron, Australian Pelican, Lesser Frigatebird, Little

Pied Cormorant, Little Black Cormorant, Terek Sandpiper, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper,

Australian Pratincole, Whiskered Tern, Variable Goshawk (polionotus), Eclectus Parrot, Red-

cheeked Parrot, Black-browed Triller, Long-tailed Fantail, Cinnamon-tailed Fantail, Arafura

Fantail (hamadryas), Broad-billed Flycatcher, Golden (Yellow-throated/Banda Sea) Whistler

(fuscoflava), Wallacean Whistler, Tanimbar (Yellow-bellied) Flyrobin, Rufous-sided Gerygone,

Mistletoebird (Wallacean Flowerpecker/Mistletoebird) (fulgidum), Ashy-bellied White-eye,

Banda Myzomela, Scaly-breasted (White-tufted) Honeyeater, Tanimbar Friarbird, Tanimbar

(Black-eared) Oriole (decipiens), Wallacean Drongo (kuehni), Tanimbar Starling, Five-coloured

Munia, Tawny Grassbird (taxonomic status unclear).

Other interest - A forest Muridae was the only terrestrial mammal seen, at night c3-4km along the

Old Logging Track (possibly the data deficient Melomys cooperae given size, white cheeks, upperpart

colouring cinnamon brown with contrasting face, dark eye ring and longish tail (Kitchener &

Maryanto, 1995)). Tokay Gecko are common.

Not seen – Tanimbar Scrubfowl (probably didn’t venture far enough away from the roads)

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Map 4: Map of Southern Yamdena (Main Road and Batu Putih Road shown blue)

Minor Crossroads

left turn to Batu

Putih

New Airport

Small Forest Patch

Roadside - Bush Warbler,

Parrotfinch, Munia, Parrots

and more.

Logging track 451

Lake view from

main road

Kebun 45

Old Logging Track

Batu Putih

Saumlaki

Army Barracks

Yonif 734 new

barracks

Roadside Fawn-breasted Thrush

Many tracks into logged forest on

this stretch of road

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Map 5: Saumlaki Town

Mangrove Patch

Ojek Hire Place

Limited natural vegetation along ridge

Old Airport

Hotels

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(3a) Kai Kecil

Introduction

The Kai Islands are set out on the edge of the Banda sea, part of the most south-easterly islands in the

Moluccas; they are close to the Aru Islands to the east, and also fairly close to the Tanimbars, with an

infrequent ferry service between these islands. Kai Kecil is a low lying island comprising raised

limestone corals and was historically covered in lowland forest.

Logistics

Given the difficulty relating to the ferries and finding reliable timetables we decided to fly to Kai

Kecil from Ambon. Both Lion Air and Garuda Indonesia have daily flights to Kai. Our afternoon

flight was however cancelled, but only after it was due to depart and we were sat waiting at the gate.

It was rescheduled for 5am the next morning, and Lion Air put us up in a transit hotel. It was a novel

experience walking into Ambon airport at 3.30am and ‘turning on the airport’ as no one else was there

but everything was unlocked. Amazingly the flight left at 5.30am meaning we had lost only an early

morning on Kai.

On Kai Kecil we stayed at the coastal resort of Oholililir on the north-west coast at the Coaster

Cottages. The accommodation rates were IDR220,000 per night for a twin with fan. The cottages

are directly adjacent to a ridge of raised limestone coral forest, which is difficult to navigate around,

and low lying areas that were actively being cleared for coastal tourist expansion. The forest area and

a new service access road along the bottom of the ridge were the main local birding site. A second

local site visited was an inland lake, Danau Ablel near the village of Ngilngof, a few miles to the

south of Oholililir. We hired a Bemo for half a day to access the lake and adjacent woodland,

farmland and coast.

A further birding site given in recent trip reports is the new access road to the Airport. We didn’t

bird this site.

Highlights:

Elegant Pitta (vigorsii) – Common along the coastal strip at Oholililir, and vocal at first and last

light. At least 3-4 birds were calling around the Coaster Cottages, and further birds along the service

access track. A single bird was seen at dawn in the forest patch immediately south of the Coaster

Cottages. A second bird was seen at dusk in the forest east of the Cottages, with a bird also spot lit at

night here.

Red-bellied (Papuan) Pitta (kuehni/macklotii) – A single bird calling and seen well at the edge of

Danau Ablel, by the main viewing area of the lake on its western shore. The form on Kai (given the

name kuehni) is sometimes considered insufficiently distinct with that in the majority of New Guinea

(macklotii), but either way is regarded in the proposed splitting up of Red-bellied Pitta as Papuan

Pitta.

White-tailed Monarch – A pair noted during all visits to the limestone coral forest strip, north of

Coaster Cottages.

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Island Monarch – Common in the limestone coral forest and coastal tree belt at Oholililir beach.

Island Whistler – A total of 10+ seen in the limestone coral forest strip north of Coaster Cottages. A

single Grey Whistler was also noted south of Coaster Cottages.

Little Kai (Golden-bellied) White-eye – Seen along the Limestone coral forest ridge in small groups.

A group of Lemon-bellied (Yellow-bellied) White-eye was also seen at this location.

Pied (Little) Bronze Cuckoo – on the service access road at Oholililir. The same form as seen on

Yamdena.

Kai Coucal – Birds seen at Danau Ablel and Oholililir.

Kai Cicadabird – Seen at Danau Ablel

Other notable birds included: Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Spotted Whistling Duck, Yellow-eyed

(Blue-tailed/Elegant) Imperial Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Moluccan (White-bibbed) Fruit

Dove, Stephan’s Dove, Eastern/Pacific Koel, Brush Cuckoo, Lesser Frigatebird, Little Black

Cormorant, Australian Pratincole, Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked

Parrot, Cockatoo/Corella sp., Variable Goshawk (albiventris), Collared Kingfisher (chloris),

Sacred Kingfisher, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Varied Triller (keyensis), Arafura Fantail

(henrici), Northern Fantail (assimilis), Tanimbar Friarbird, Green (Australian) Figbird

(cucullatus), Kai (Wallacean) Drongo (megalornis), Shining (Metallic) Starling, Mistletoebird

(Wallacean Flowerpecker/Mistletoebird) (keiense).

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Map 6: Overview map of Kai Kecil

Airport

New access road

Coaster Cottages

Limestone Forest

Oholililir

Danau Ablel

Ferry to Kai Besar

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Map 7: Oholililir Limestone Coral Forest

Good area by bay

Limestone Ridge

Forest has been

cleared below the

ridge since this

aerial photo

Oholililir

Coaster Cottages

New service access

road. Forest has

been part cleared

and burnt along

this road.

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(3b) Kai Besar

Introduction

A more mountainous island, to the east of Kai Kecil. It contains a couple of endemic birds and other

endemic forms to the Kai Islands that may be given species status in time.

Logistics

We gave ourselves a 3-4 hour time window to look for Great Kai (Pearl-bellied) White-eye and Kai

Leaf Warbler. Other species that may be worth targeting here are the ‘Kai Boobook’ and the local

form of Slender-billed Cuckoo Dove.

The island can be reached from Kai Kecil from the harbour in Langgur town, just south of the bridge

connecting Kai Kecil and Kai Dulah. The ferry was said to go at 9am but left about 9.30am. It costs

IDR150,000 one way and took 1.5hrs. The return from Kai Besar left at 3pm. This gave us four

hours of time on the island. We hired a vehicle by flagging it down in the harbour and agreeing a rate

(IDR400,000 for four hours). There were very few vehicles but plenty of motorbike taxis (Ojeks) that

could have been chartered.

The site visited – the Bukit Indra Mission is about 40 minutes drive from the harbour. The access

track off the main road is rough so we walked it to the main buildings. There was no one around so

we accessed the hill trail behind the two statues in the grounds and walked above 400m asl in order to

get into the main zone for the leaf warbler.

Highlights:

Great Kai (Pearl-bellied) White-eye – A small group seen on the access track to the Indra Mission.

Kai (Island) Leaf Warbler (avicola) – A singing bird along the hill trail behind the Indra Mission

was seen well, with a second bird also present.

Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove (keyensis) – Seen by SC at the Indra Mission, otherwise heard only in

the forest above the Indra Mission by the rest of us.

Yellow-eyed (Blue-tailed/Elegant) Imperial Pigeon – Seen on the hill trail.

Island Monarch – Seen on the access track to the Mission.

Other birds included: Oriental/Himalayan (type) Cuckoo, Lesser Frigatebird, Oriental

Dollarbird, White-breasted Woodswallow, Shining (Metallic) Starling

Not Seen – ‘Kai Boobook’ – a little known Ninox Owl currently recorded as Southern Boobook, but

sounds, from Frank Lambert’s recordings on Xeno Canto, quite like a Barking Owl type duet.

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Map 8: 3D Aerial of Kai Besar

Elat Harbour

Cross-island road,

approx. route.

Turn off to Mission

Bukit Indra Mission

Trail

N

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(4) Buru

Introduction

A mountainous island and one of the birding highlights of the southern Moluccas. The main birding

site at present is the Wamlana Logging Road, which allows access to part logged hill and lower

montane forest in the centre of the island. This provides opportunity to access nearly all of the

endemic species present on the island. The bizarre Madanga (a tree hugging montane pipit otherwise

known as Rufous-throated White-eye), is the only endemic that has not been recently recorded from

the forests along this road. A second location visited, Bara - on the north west coast - is possibly an

even better site with areas of extensive forest from coast to the high tops, but access here to high

ground is difficult (would require a full expedition!).

Logistics

Currently the easiest way to get to Buru is an overnight ferry from Ambon. From Galala harbour,

Ambon the overnight ferry to Namlea, Buru leaves around 8pm, but actually left a little earlier for us,

so make sure you get your tickets in advance. At 5pm on the evening of sail we purchased tickets and

with the individual cabins already sold out, business class area with bunks cost us IDR165,000. For

the return, again at 8pm, issues in the gold mining areas of Buru had prompted a mass eviction of

workers so the ferry was packed and we only just managed to get a standard ticket IDR78,000. The

ferries are both overnight and arrived on time at 5am.

From Namlea harbour we got on a shared Bemo to Waspait, and this dropped us off at the Buru

Island Resort, just east of the village. This resort is not officially open yet, but the rooms are

complete and we were allowed to rent a room for IDR500,000 per night. We all fitted into the one

room, with the aid of two extra mattresses (on the promise we would stay 5 nights).

In Waspait, with the help an English speaking local resident, Anna – who was introduced to us by the

hotel, we managed to arrange transport in the form of 2WD to take us to Bara and local sites, and

4WD to take us along the Wamlana logging road into the mountains of Buru. She also helped with

interpretation when asking for permission to use the logging road (not sure this was necessary as

logging activities did not seem to be ongoing during our visit). The 4WD vehicle with driver, called

Hamush (spelling may be incorrect), came from Wamlana. Hamush lives behind the only café (rumah

makan) in the village. The owners of the 4WD I think lived in the last house heading east, before a

small bridge. The shops around the entrance to the logging road are also an option for vehicle hire,

although were more pricey (starting at IDR2,500,000 but you may be able to reduce this a little). The

cost we paid for the 4WD hire per day was an expensive IDR1,800,000. We asked to be picked up at

4am every morning, but this was rarely achieved. One morning the vehicle arrived around 6am and

we cancelled it for the day in protest (as the weather was so hot and dry that by 9-10am the bird life

had shut down for the day). We only managed to get up the Wamlana Logging Road pre-dawn on

two mornings out of five to try for the Boobook. The road was used by a few vehicles a day, so there

may be hitching options for solo travellers who may want to camp along the road.

The main birding site we visited, the Wamlana Logging Road, is a c50km section of road that leads

to Danu Rana, a lake in the mountains of Buru. A bit of pre-planning would have shown that the

highest point on the road is at c33-34km (see map). We didn’t get this far, only getting to the first

high point, about 13-16km along. This may have reduced our chances with Buru Honeyeater, Black-

22

lored Parrot and Blue-fronted Lorikeet – three uncommon/rare species we missed. The dry weather

meant that conditions here were particularly hard going, with very little territorial activity from any of

the birds. On our first visit we stayed on the mountain all day, but this approach was abandoned when

we saw no new birds and almost no activity between 11am and 4pm. This may have been unusual

though.

We also spent an evening and morning around the village of Bara. This was accessible via the

northern coast road that was in the process of being upgraded, and was mostly complete – with just

one river crossing to make without a road bridge. The new road bridges mean that you can get from

Waspait to Bara in less than 1hr, something we hadn’t realised when arranging our transport. Visitors

to Bara are welcomed by the village head, who has two rooms each with a double bed to rent out, with

donations to the owners. The main birding is back out of the village on the main road to the harbour,

with decent forest patches either side of the main river, and plantations and burnt areas also providing

some interest in between. The main road runs alongside a long section of cliffs as the mountains rise

away to the south, with good views and extensive forest from coast to mountain top visible but not

easily accessible! This site is currently the best stakeout for Buru Green Pigeon and Moluccan

Masked Owl.

Around the village of Waspait we birded a few localities, including the riverbed west of the resort

and trails south of the village, but nothing of note was seen here that wasn’t seen in either Bara or

along the Wamlana Logging Road. With your own transport, and with the upgraded northern coast

road, birding lowland forest around Bara would probably be a better option than lowland forest

around Waspait.

Highlights:

Moluccan (Lesser) Masked Owl – Seen well along the main road at Bara. Three birds calling about

2hrs after dusk, and spending most of their time in plantations and burnt forest sections east of the

river, rather than the surviving rainforest. A bird was located about 50m from the road calling from a

tall tree. At 1hr before dawn four birds were calling, with a pair seen well by a roadside tree. Birds

were not responsive to playback. Moluccan Scops Owl was also present. Some forest habitats along

the road here were being burnt during our visit – probably because of the exceptionally dry

conditions. Locals in Waspait also recognised a picture of the bird and suggested it occurs locally,

however on a couple of evening attempts we failed to locate any birds – trying south of the village

around the river.

Buru Thrush – Seen well along the Wamlana Logging Road in a gulley around km 11, on the left

turn off (heading up hill), at around 980m asl.

Red-bellied (Buru) Pitta (rubrinucha) – Heard in a few locations along the Wamlana Logging

Road. Seen on one occasion in a dry streambed gulley around km 11, on the left turn off, at around

980m asl. in the same area as the Thrush.

Buru (Variable) Dwarf Kingfisher – Seen by TS down a dry streambed around the km 11 turn off,

who managed to get views of it before it departed into the forest. It unfortunately wouldn’t return to

23

playback and was a heard only for the rest of us. Again around 980m asl. SC also had one along dry

riverbed west of the Buru Island Resort in Waspait.

Elegant Pitta (elegans) – Heard Only. Heard at dusk in the lowland forest fragments along the main

road at Bara. A bird at dawn, hit by the first Ojek of the day, was picked up dead off the road here as

well.

Buru (Hantu/Moluccan) Boobook – A single calling bird pre-dawn (quiet call) was taped into very

brief views in the spotlight and in flight a couple of times. This was about 8km along the Logging

Road.

Black-tipped Monarch – Seen in lowland forest south of Waspait, on the lower sections of the

Logging Road, along the dry streambed adjacent to the Buru Island resort, and along the main road at

Bara.

Buru (Pompador) Green Pigeon – Single birds seen along the main road at Bara in forest areas

around the large bridge across the main river.

Buru Mountain Pigeon – Seen at km 11 of the Wamlana Logging Road on a couple of occasions.

Buru (Chestnut-backed) Bush Warbler – Seen by SC near the Erosion Monitoring Plot on the

Wamlana Logging Road after speculative playback, and JG at Km 11. This species was not heard

calling at all.

Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher – Seen at Km 11 along the Wamlana Logging Road in the gullies

along the left hand trail.

Parrots – Buru Racquet-tail was common along the Wamlana Logging Road, Red-breasted

Hanging Parrot was seen very well once at Km 11 of the Wamlana Logging Road, Red Lory

widespread and locally common, Moluccan King Parrot seen on the Wamlana Logging Road and

lowland forest south of Waspait, also Rainbow Lorikeet, Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot.

No sign of the two rare parrots unfortunately.

‘Pygmy Eagle’ – A single bird being mobbed by a Spotted Kestrel at about km 18 along the

Wamlana Logging Road. This bird fitted previous descriptions of a small eagle with dark flight

feathers and pale underwing coverts, with brown streaking on the head and upper breast – very similar

in appearance to a Booted Eagle and not the plainer morphs of Pygmy Eagle from elsewhere in the

Moluccas and New Guinea.

Other Island/regional Endemics seen on the Wamlana Logging Road (some were also seen in the

lowlands): Streaky-breasted Jungle Flycatcher, Buru Oriole, Buru Friarbird, Wakolo

Myzomela, Drab Whistler, Golden (Yellow-throated) Whistler, (Buru) Spectacled Imperial

Pigeon, Buru White-eye, Moluccan (Seram) Swiftlet, Buru (Southern) Golden Bulbul, Buru

(Island) Leaf Warbler (everetti).

24

Dusky (Forsten’s) Scrubfowl – Seen well a few times in the plantation and burnt habitat along the

main road at Bara, eg around the erratic rock. The dry conditions may well have worked in our favour

for seeing this bird.

(Moluccan Scrubfowl) - We tried one night, with the help of a local villager Mr Awl (spelling may

again be incorrect), to look for Moluccan Scrubfowl on the beach west of the village of Waspait.

Unfortunately Mr Awl, and his brother who accompanied us, got spooked being out at night with four

‘giant’ Brits; and after an hour search they built a fire on the beach until their nerves got the better and

we abandoned the night time vigil and headed back to Waspait. We weren’t aware until the next day,

due to lack of common language, the reasons for the trip being cut short. The Scrubfowl areas looked

promising though, with recent activity.

Other birds included: Great Cuckoo-dove (south of Waspait), Moluccan Fruit Dove, (Eastern)

Superb Fruit Dove, Slender-billed Cuckoo Dove, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove (Bara), Large-

tailed Nightjar, Moustached Treeswift, Moluccan (Rusty-breasted) Cuckoo (aeruginosus),

Eastern Koel, White-breasted Waterhen, Lesser Frigatebird, Red-footed Booby, Brown Booby,

Red-necked Phalarope, Black Eagle, Common Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, Spotted Kestrel,

Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Northern Fantail, Island Monarch, Moluccan (Slaty) Monarch,

Mountain Tailorbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler, Olive-backed

(Black-throated) Sunbird, Shining (Metallic) Starling, Black-faced Munia.

Not Seen – Buru Honeyeater, Black-lored Parrot, Blue-fronted Lorikeet (Seen winter 2014 by a

number of visitors), Madanga.

25

Map 9: Wamlana Logging Road, Buru

Highest point on road 1435m

Antennae 1250m

1st Pass 1264m Erosion Monitoring Plot

Km11 junction

Start of road proper

Buru Island Resort

Waspait Village Wamlana Village

Danu Rana

26

Map 10: Bara

Bara Village

Lowland Forest Patch

Plantations

Lowland Forest patches

Cliffs

Main Road

Bara Harbour

27

(5) Seram

Introduction

We visited a single site on Seram – the Trans Seram Highway as it goes through Manusela National

Park close to the coastal village of Sawai. This road, and the Sawai access road, allows access to

degraded lowland forest through to hill and lower montane forest within the national park.

Logistics

We arrived at Sawai after a trip to Boano Island (see below). We returned to Ambon via the day

passenger ferry from Amahai to Tulehu. This takes about 2.5hrs and cost IDR125,000. The ferry

was operating morning and early afternoon during our visit. A taxi was taken from Sawai/Amahai

which cost IDR750,000.

In Sawai we stayed at the Lisar Bahari guesthouse, which charged us IDR300,000 a day full board

per person for a single room (most other places we shared twin rooms). From here we arranged

transport for accessing the birding sites through a guy called Dinho who works at the guest house.

This had its problems in terms of attempted overcharging, motorbikes not turning up on time and

general lack of enthusiasm from Dinho to actually organise something that is outside of the standard

tourist request; but in reality was as straightforward as an early morning lift up the Trans Seram

Highway and drop off at the first pass (where we walked/hitched back at the end of the day). There

are two other guesthouses in Sawai and the adjacent village around the coast (as marked on the map),

and I would recommend looking into these as well. Certainly the guest house on the entrance to the

village charges the same rates, has the same set up and is closer to the Sawai access road. The other

guest house is around the bay and accessible from a turn off the Sawai access road. This is a slightly

more expensive guesthouse and was still being part constructed during our visit, but it did have A/C

rooms.

The main birding sites we visited are; the Sawai access road, which is a 5-6km road in the process of

being upgraded that runs through degraded lowland forest, with some decent patches. The Trans

Seram Highway as it runs through Manusela National Park, particularly the first pass area and a

few kilometres either side (a small trail is marked on the map here that allows access into the forest

north of the first pass – at the end of a drainage ditch). The small offshore islands of Palau Loesaolat

(& Palau Sialoemania) and a river channel accessible on the same boat journey east of Sawai. Boats

can be hired (for half days or specific visits) through the guesthouses. We were charged IDR800,000

(group cost) for a trip to various islands and along the river channel, or IDR500,000 for a trip to a

single destination (eg Palau Loesaolat).

As the Trans Seram Highway runs through Manusela National Park, there is the potential for park

rangers to charge an entrance fee of IDR150,000 per day (even if you stay on the road). We met no

rangers during our time on the road. There is a ranger station (see map) but we were never stopped

when driving past on either Ojeks or motor vehicles.

28

Highlights:

Salmon-crested Cockatoo – Individual birds and pairs seen a few times in the lowland forest on the

Sawai access road.

Blue-eared Lory – Seen in flight on a couple of occasions. The best views of a group of three over

the Trans Seram Highway at the first high pass. Red Lory were common at this location too.

Other Parrots - Coconut (Rainbow) Lorikeet, Moluccan King Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Red-

cheeked Parrot, Great Billed Parrot were all seen along the Sawai access road, with records of

some also on the Trans Seram Highway.

Lazuli Kingfisher – A couple of pairs seen along the Sawai access road, including a pair from within

the village halfway along.

Long-crested Myna – A small group seen on the Sawai access road, nearer to the junction with the

Trans Seram Highway.

Grey-hooded White-eye – Seen at the first high pass on three visits, including a group of three in a

fast moving flock that included all four species of white-eye.

Bicoloured White-eye (Rufescent Dark-eye) – Seen at the first high pass on three visits, including a

group of three together on one occasion.

Olive Honeyeater –20+ of this range restricted small island specialist seen on Palau Loesaolat on two

trips to this island.

Seram (Hantu/Moluccan) Boobook– Common by voice along forested sections of the Sawai access

road, but were not very tape responsive during our visit, and only infrequently vocalising.

Seram Mountain Pigeon – A few small flocks over various sections of the Trans Seram Highway.

Seram (Spectacled) Imperial Pigeon – Widespread from lowland to along the Trans Seram

Highway. Best views were from a boat trip along the river east of Sawai.

Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher – Seen on a couple of occasions on the Trans Seram Highway, the

first 2-3km north of the first pass.

Spectacled Monarch – Seen on the Sawai access road on two occasions.

Violet (Slender-billed) Crow – Seen along the Sawai access road and along the Trans Seram

Highway. Was quite vocal and has a distinctive flight pattern.

29

Other Island/Regional Endemics - Seram Honeyeater, Drab (Seram) Myzomela, Wakolo

Myzomela, Seram (Black-crowned) White-eye, Drab Whistler, Golden (Yellow-throated)

Whistler, Streak-breasted Fantail, Moluccan (Seram) Swiftlet, Seram (Grey-collared) Oriole,

Seram Friarbird, Seram (Southern) Golden Bulbul. Seram (Island) Leaf Warbler (ceramensis).

Other birds included: Slender-billed Cuckoo Dove, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Claret-breasted Fruit

Dove, Moluccan (White-bibbed) Fruit Dove, Moustached Treeswift, Blyth’s Hornbill, Gray’s

Grasshopper Warbler, Rufous-tailed Bush Hen, Moluccan (Rusty-breasted) Cuckoo (heinrichi),

Channel-billed Cuckoo, Pacific Reef Egret, Little Pied Cormorant, Lesser Sandplover,

Australian White Ibis, Australian Pelican, Little Tern, Crested Tern, Common Tern

(longipennis), Black-naped Tern, Bridled Tern, Brown Booby, White-winged Black Tern,

Pomerine Skua, Moluccan Scops Owl, Black Eagle, Sacred Kingfisher, Pale Grey Cicadabird,

Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Moluccan (Slaty) Monarch, Mountain Tailorbird, Olive-backed

Sunbird, Oriental Mountain White-eye,

Not Seen – Moluccan Cuckooshrike, Purple-naped Lory, Seram Red-bellied Pitta (piroensis)

(photographed by Craig Robson/Birdquest on the Trans Seram Highway in 2014), Seram Thrush,

Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk, Moluccan (Variable) Dwarf Kingfisher, Seram (Chestnut-

backed) Bush Warbler (again as with Buru populations, not even definitively heard), Chinese

Crested Tern (seen on Palau Sailoemania as recently as December 2014 by Craig Robson/Birdquest)

– we tried for this bird twice. Seram Masked Owl (when split from Moluccan/Lesser/Australian!).

Other interest: Northern Common Cuscus along the Sawai access road at night; a few Banded Sea

Krait and an unidentified marine Turtle from the guesthouse at Sawai.

30

Map 11: Trans Seram Highway through Manusela NP (blue road) & Sawai Access Road (dark grey road)

2nd Mountain Pass

1st Mountain Pass

Observation Platform

Sawai Turn off

Sawai Village

Small Village

Cafes on Highway before

Manusela NP stretch of

road

Ranger station

31

(6) Boano

Introduction

A small island off the north-west coast of Seram. The island is home to the Critically Endangered

endemic, Black-chinned Monarch.

Logistics

We got to Boano via Ambon where a car ferry goes a few times a day from Liang to Waipirit in

Seram. The first ferry of the day is 7am and as a foot passenger it costs IDR16,500 and takes about

1.5hrs. At Waipirit we arranged a private bemo charter from the harbour to take us to the small

coastal village of Masika in north-west Seram where you can charter a speedboat to Boano. The

journey was passible by 2WD vehicle, but the conditions were very dry and the last section of the

journey was on a non-metalled road.

We chartered a boat from the owners of the small shop adjacent to the pier/beach at Masika and

bargained a price of IDR1,400,000 for a return to the small coastal village of Huhua (as it turned out a

circumnavigation of the island). The boatman/shop owner was called Abu.

The village of Huhua (possibly also spelt Huahua) as suggested by the information on the Birds

Indonesia website and from the Henk Hendricks trip report is where the Monarch has been seen in

recent times. We arranged for the village head and another villager to show us the track into the

forest/countryside. We paid the villagers a small contribution as a thank you for allowing us to visit

their land. It may be worth taking a couple of packets of cigarettes as a gift as well.

Highlights:

Boano Black-chinned Monarch – Excellent views of maybe two pairs/groups of birds just outside

the village of Huhua, not far from the small rock face mentioned in the Hendricks trip report – that

can be shown to you by the village head at Huhua.

Common Paradise Kingfisher (boanensis) – A single bird taped in along the main track.

Other birds included: Moluccan (Slaty) Monarch, Island Monarch, Arctic Warbler, Red-necked

Phalarope, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Seram (Spectacled) Imperial Pigeon

Other interest – Indo-pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin & Spinner Dolphin

32

(7) Haruku

Introduction

A small island east of Ambon, with access to one of the largest Moluccan Scrubfowl nesting beaches

known.

Logistics

The Moluccan Scrubfowl beach can be easily reached via speedboat from Tulehu, Ambon. The

harbour for speedboat hire is in the centre of Tulehu, and not at the passenger ferry terminal at the

northern end of town. From this small harbour we chartered a speedboat for around 8 hours, which

involved a c45minute journey to Kailolo harbour in Haruku, a wait by the boatman until about 11pm

and then a return journey to Tulehu. The charter cost IDR400,000 (group cost).

At Kailolo we asked for a local representative to show us the Scrubfowl beach (as suggested by the

Birds Indonesia website - we didn’t just access the site without permission). Here we were eventually

met by a local called Mr Badi (spelling maybe incorrect). He brought with him another local, Cang

(pronounced Chang), she could speak good English and kindly assisted us with the arrangements. We

arranged to wait for the Scrubfowl to come in at night in the small hut at the main clearing on the

beach where they lay their eggs. Here we waited after dark until between 8-9pm when the Scrubfowl

started appearing. They are sensitive to noise, light and any movement, but can show well in the light

of a full moon.

From what we could gather a regular ferry is also said to run from Tulehu in the morning, to the main

village further south on the island, returning in the late afternoon.

Highlights:

Moluccan Scrubfowl – Over 30 counted at the main clearing and watched under the full moon for

two hours, digging nest holes and walking around, with views down to 5m. I spent about 30mins

trying to get a record shot photo of the action without any torchlight, just using the full moon so as

not to disturb the birds. However as we got up to leave, having put my camera away, Mr Badi shone

his torch on the whole group of c30 birds flushing most, but temporarily freezing a couple in the

beam, allowing excellent close up of the plumage features. Apparently this was done so that the birds

don’t dig too deep to lay their eggs! Egg collecting still occurs here, albeit said to be in a controlled

manner.

Moluccan Scops Owl – Calling around the main beach clearing for the Scrubfowl.

33

Endemic Range Restricted Species/Taxa

An excel sheet linked here is based on Birdlife International’s endemic bird areas that cover the areas

visited (Banda Sea EBA, Buru EBA, Seram EBA). Additions and amendments have been made as (1)

the EBA’s on the website have not been updated to include new species proposed by Birdlife, and (2)

a few additional species have been included.

Final Thoughts

Thanks to Shaun, Tim and Jon for another great adventure into Indonesia; and for reading a draft of

this report and providing corrections, comments and amendments to increase its usefulness. Thanks

to all the friendly and welcoming Indonesians who assisted us in our travels, especially Anna Pramuji

for her help with our communication issues on Buru, and Cang with our communication issues on

Haruku.

Finally, well done to Jon for getting his 8000th bird species on this trip – Boano’s Black-chinned

Monarch that is front cover of the report and gave us amazing views; I just hope he didn’t close his

eyes in the days leading up to this milestone and throw away some ticks for us all so he could get a

suitably mega bird as #8000!

GarethKnass

Berkshire, UK