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INSIDE COMPLETE TV GUIDEFEBRUARY 24, 2013

melbourne inside out

Dani Valent carves

up this year’s food

& wine festival

FILM SODERBERGH’S GRAND FINALE TRAVEL THE ROMANCE OF RUTHERGLEN

Make a meal of it

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THE SERVE����� excellent ���� very good ��� good �� average � poor

abysmal

THIS WEEK: BASEMENT DINING

Restaurant reviews by Dani Valent

★★★★BROOKSBasement 115-117 Collins Street (enter from

George Parade), city, 9001 8755

Licensed AE MC V

Mon-Fri, 11.30am-late; Sat, 4pm-late

Small, $14-$28; medium, $16-$39;

large, $62-$88; sweets, $18

Brooks leans onFrench tradition toproduce unusualcombinations, suchas pork, seaweedand squid (above).PICTURES: PAUL JEFFERS

When people ask me where they should eat, Itell them Brooks, Brooks, Brooks, because thefood is interesting and delicious, and theexperience fun and flexible. Basementrestaurants can feel cut off andclaustrophobic, but Brooks emanates atingling feeling of potential.

The chef is Nicolas Poelaert, previously atCarlton’s Embrasse. Some dishes have madethe journey from the old restaurant, butthere’s an ease and liveliness at Brooks thatcontrasts with the earnestness thatcharacterised Embrasse. Put it down to

experience, a buzzier location with a separatebar, genial and expert service, a nimble winelist, and certainly the approach of old-handbusiness owners Gerald Diffey and Mario diIenno (Gerald’s Bar), who have allowed thecook to cook. There’s a spine to Brooks, asense of history, a feeling of reading the moodand writing the future.

Poelaert is a French chef with a modernoutlook and his food is expressive, thoughtfuland delightfully pretty. The menu is acontemporary pick-and-mix affair without theentree and main distinctions that some findhelpful and others dismiss as strangling.

Smaller tastes might be as simple asoysters or beef charcuterie, or as clever (andfilling) as a ‘‘cheese and crackers’’ dish thatturns out to be rye puffs piped full of bluecheese. There are substantial roast dishes forsharing and a burger that speaks to the all-day-dining nature of the business.

A ‘‘seasonal’’ heading tops a list of

adventurous dishes of hidden delights.Unusual combinations tend to work, or are atleast restrained enough not to jar. Trumpeterfish is touched by curry powder, wasabi andgreen strawberries, yet the most striking thingabout the dish is how perfectly the fillet iscooked. Even an unlikely three-way of pork,seaweed and squid does a merry jig.

The ‘‘forest floor’’ dessert is an Embrassefavourite, featuring a mushroom made fromhazelnut parfait, scatterings of sparky mint-and-sorrel granita and popcorn-crunchy porkcrackling.

Other dishes lean on tradition. There’saligot, a silken cheesy potato mash, and themeli symphony of vegetables, flowers andleaves that has long been Poelaert’s homageto French master Michel Bras. Poelaert’scurrent approach to the meli rejoices in natureinstead of tiptoeing through it with reverence,tapping into an easy joy that’s emblematic ofthe Brooks experience.

ALSO TRY

Little Hunter, 195 Little Collins Street, city,9654 0090. Tues-Sat, lunch and dinner;Sun, brunch.Opening this week in the Georges building,

Little Hunter is a new-style steakhouse with

a focus on humanely sourced meat. I swoon

at the sound of the rib eye with beef-fat

butter.

The Moat, basement, 176 LittleLonsdale Street, city, 9094 7820.Mon-Fri, breakfast, lunch and dinner;Sat, lunch and dinner.Wander to the Wheeler Centre to find this

hidey hole for reading, discussing, drinking

and eating. The food is snacky and it’s

crafted with care.

Izakaya Den, basement, 114 Russell Street,city, 9654 2977. Mon-Fri, lunch anddinner; Sat, dinner.I love sipping sake and snacking on corn

kakiage (tempura-fried corn kernels) with

green-tea salt at this cool Japanese eating

house. Be prepared to wait for a spot.

PICTURE: DANIEL LEWIS

OUR SHOUT

THE SMITH213 High Street, Prahran,

9514 2444

Sun-Wed, noon-11.30pm;

Thurs-Sat, noon-1am.

The Smith is a lesson in how to nail a

renovation, transforming a rundown slice

of trendiest Prahran into a relaxed,

funky and subtly classic nightspot. Low,

freshly coated white ceilings and

distressed-brick walls induce a homely

warmth, even before you’re greeted by

one of the exuberant, sharply dressed

staff. They’ll offer a spot at the long

marbled bar — occupied by gushing

couples on second or third dates — or

signal towards the smartly spaced-out

tables and banquettes. There’s a long,

savvy wine list, made-for-summer

cocktails and a diverse array of beers.

Most bars like to think they put the

customer first; the Smith actually does.Daniel Lewis

7 MFebruary 24, 2013

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7 MfoodFebruary 17, 2013

THE SERVE����� excellent ���� very good ��� good �� average � poor

abysmal

THIS WEEK: HOT NEW CAFES

Restaurant reviews by Dani Valent

St Ali North luresthe hordes withsuch life-affirmingdishes as roastednectarine onbrioche with baconice-cream (above).PICTURES: PAULJEFFERS

★★★IST ALI NORTH815 Nicholson Street, North Carlton,

9380 5455

Unlicensed MC V eftpos

Daily, 7am-5pm

Breakfast, $7.50-$20.50; Lunch,

$15-$21.50

If you were putting a cafe in a time capsule toshow the future what Melbourne 2013 waslike, you might as well stuff in St Ali North.Everything about it is indicative, and plenty ofits features could vie for best of breed. There’sthe urban-playground nature of the place: ona bike path behind a cycle shop, and with atangle of two-wheelers in the parking lot.

There are showcase piercings, hipstertattoos and conceptual hair arrangements –and that’s just the staff. There’s the little dudephenomenon: kids in cool T-shirts eating from

a children’s menu that doesn’t read like awhat-not-to-eat chart. There’s even a JimiHendrix colouring page on the back for theVoodoo Child who likes pencils.

The interior is very now: stone and glassand shouty-loud; clean lines splotched with alittle kitsch and art. Then there’s the food(thorough, DIY-restaurant approach, cafeangle, allergy friendly), the drink (coffee asculture), and the service (professional, totallychilled with sprinting power when necessary).

St Ali North opened in December. Its oldersibling, St Ali (South), trucks on merrily in aSouth Melbourne laneway. Bolted to bothmenus are the crisp, lively corn fritters withhaloumi, still the go-to comfort food in a townthat’s clogged with it. There’s also a lovely,deeply toasted granola, with a great balanceof grains, nuts, coconut and honey, servedover a decent dollop of vanilla yoghurt.

Healthy, too. I can make a health argument

for the roasted nectarines on brioche withbacon ice-cream: things that make you feelthat brain-poppingly happy must be good foryou, even if they tick a couple of food groupsa couple of times too many.

The (very) big breakfast is served with asmashing array of sides, including porkysausage nuggets and doughty bean ragout.A gluten-free sandwich was less thansparkling: maybe kale just isn’t supposed tobe sandwiched, or maybe it was that thechickpea braise was bland. The cakes cabinet,meanwhile, encased serious riches.

The place gets busy, so the time capsulewill need to include the strange 21st-centuryphenomenon of the breakfast waiting list. Butthe experienced St Ali North crew tend tohandle whatever’s thrown at them, whetherit’s a crush at the door, a fierce need forcaffeine, or, I’m sure, the notion ofrepresenting Melbourne cafes in a 2013 cache.

ALSO TRY

Fergus, 301 Wattletree Road,Malvern East, 9509 8351.Daily, breakfast and lunch.It’s been pumping since it opened in

November, with creative muffin flavours

(Jaffa!), airconditioning and a sweet

courtyard, too.

Acland Street Cantina, 2 Acland Street,St Kilda. Daily, 7am-3am.Starting early and powering on until late,

the old Mink Bar is now a diner with fast

and fresh Mexican food to eat in or take

away. Expect a crowd.

Follow the Leader, 65 Glen Eira Road,Ripponlea, 9530 0415.Daily, breakfast and lunch.This quality cafe joins Ripponlea’s Spout

and Hawk & Hunter. The newbie has a

courtyard and sources coffee from this

week’s star, St Ali.

PICTURE: ADAM CURLEY

OUR SHOUT

THE ALEHOUSE PROJECT100 Lygon St, Brunswick East,

thealehouseproject.com.au.

Tue-Fri, 3pm-late; Sat-Sun, noon-late.

There’s a reason beer isn’t a popular

ingredient with the shake-and-stir set.

For one thing, it’s beer. But if a grain-

fed cocktail is just too tempting to

pass up (that is, if you’re already half

cut), the Alehouse Project has the

answer: hops-infused vodka. Of

course, fancy tipples aren’t the focus

of this hall-size parlour. Much like a

brewery bar with a wider selection,

there are 12 rotating beer taps with a

focus on Australian craft brewers. Get

down pronto for a Mountain Goat

summer stout. If that doesn’t satisfy,

add almost 40 bottled varieties from

around the world. A beer garden that

is more backyard than fire escape sets

the tone for summer, while couches

are a cosy alternative to the large

wooden tables inside.Adam Curley

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‘‘If prickly pear isn’t on your weekly shoppinglist, come to this cactus-centric Mexican dinner.

’’

for afternoon tea, and makes an appearanceon March 11. $59, Monday, March 4, to Friday,March 15, 10.30am-4.30pm. Aria Bar &Lounge, The Langham Melbourne,Southbank.Dig It. DejustationVegetarians are catered for at most food-festival events but this garden banquet putsvegetarian food centre-stage, with a six-coursedinner featuring foraged forest ingredients.Gluten-free diners are welcome too. $99,Saturday, March 16, 6-10pm. Goldmines Hotel,49-57 Marong Road, Bendigo.

HUNGRY KIDYou’re a junior masterchef with a penchant forplating up.

Cellar Door and Artisan MarketChildren’s cooking classes from chefsincluding Shane Delia and Joseph Abboud arepart of an impressive weekend of food andwine sampling, picnicking and music at ComoHouse. From $20 ($45 with wine tasting,under-12s free), Saturday, March 2, andSunday, March 3, 11am-6pm. Corner WilliamsRoad and Lechlade Avenue, South Yarra.Dumpling FestivalDoesn’t good parenting mean ensuring yourkids love dumplings? If your answer is ‘‘yes’’,bring them to this all-day celebration ofCantonese dumplings, with cooking demosand lion dancing. Free (food extra), Sunday,March 3, 10am-3pm. Treasury Gardens.Eat Drink GrowCollingwood hipster hub and kid-friendlyhangout the People’s Market is celebratingsustainable food with right-on bites, veggie-patch workshops and bluegrass bands.$2 (food extra), Saturday, March 2, noon-3pmand 5-10pm. 64-68 Stanley Street,Collingwood.

Oodles of NoodlesKung Fu Panda screens on the banks of theMaribyrnong, preceded by a noodle anddumpling frenzy. Free, Friday, March 1,6.30-10pm. River Lawn, Footscray CommunityArts Centre, 45 Moreland Street, Footscray.Mini Chocolate MaestrosChildren select decorative elements from acolourful buffet and use them in theirchocolate creations under a chef’ssupervision. $35, Saturday, March 2, 10am,1pm and 3pm. ANZ Pavilion, Arts Centre,Melbourne. (See also Become a JuniorChocolatier in the Yarra Valley.)Picnic in the PaddockSack races, apple-bobbing and kite-flying arepart of the picture at this traditional picnic,with local produce on hand to create arelaxing twilight picnic about two hours northof Melbourne. $15-$45 (under-12s free),Saturday, March 16, 3-8pm. Bridgeward GroveOlives and Art, 170 Englishs Road, Goornong.

GLAM NIBBLERLovely food is part of your lovely life.

Sparkling, King Prawns and CaviarSip local bubbles or beer, taste hand-milkedYarra Valley caviar and munch local prawnswhile the experts involved explain how yourlunch came to be. $90, Saturday, March 2,

Saturday, March 9, Sunday, March 10,Monday, March 11, 12.30-3.30pm. MentoneHotel, Mentone; Portland Hotel, Melbourne;The Exchange, Port Melbourne.Pop, Rock and PearlsOysters shucked by the farmers who grewthem, traditional caviar and marvellouschampagne are on the menu at this intimaterooftop occasion. $150, Saturday, March 9,2-5.30pm. The Aylesbury, 103 Lonsdale Street,Melbourne.Designer BitesFood and fashion merge in a Gertrude Streetcrawl that combines VIP shopping withelegant eats at a total of seven hip venues.$95, Tuesday, March 5, 6-10pm. GertrudeStreet, Fitzroy.Fashion and Food Is ArtFashion and food writers and top chefs,including Nicolas Poelaert and Ian Curley, talkabout the connections between the sartorialand the succulent at this chatty lunch.$125, Friday, March 1, 12.30-3.30pm.ANZ Pavilion, Arts Centre, Melbourne.Cheese, Wine, ObjectsBeautiful food is elevated by perfectcrockery and potter Shelley Panton’screations are as lovely as it gets. At thisentertaining showcase, Panton’s plates arethe tactile stage for artisan Swiss cheese.$75, Wednesday, March 6, 6.30-8pm.

Shelley Panton’s Studio & Store, 88 Park Road,Middle Park.Cocktails of Melbourne DinnerUh-oh, five courses of cocktails but, hey, it’sOK because it’s educational. Radio 3RRR’sCam Smith and alcohol authority SebastianReaburn lead this garrulous gulp throughMelbourne’s liquid history. $160, Tuesday,March 5, and Thursday, March 7, 7-11.30pm.Queen’s Hall, State Library of Victoria,Melbourne.Ardbeg WhiskyOne of Scotland’s earthiest, smokiest whiskiesrecently took a trip into space to see whateffect zero gravity has on the ageing process.Try this peaty traveller and others, along withcanapes. $55, Tuesday, March 12, 7-10pm.Alumbra, Shed 9, Central Pier, Docklands.

BUCKET-LISTERYou’ve always wanted to pick, pluck, prepare,poach ...

Hook, Lunch and SinkerTake a fishing boat into the bay, haul in thecatch of the day, then have it cooked for youby Stokehouse chefs. Beware, fisherfolk riseearly! $190, Sunday, March 3, 6am-3pm.Stokehouse, 30 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda.Forage and FeastKeep your eyes peeled for mushrooms on thisforaging expedition to the MorningtonPeninsula. Later, enjoy what you’ve gatheredin a five-course meal. $160, Saturday,March 9, 9am-1pm and 6.30-10.30pm.Lamaro’s, 273 Cecil Street, South Melbourne.Crush, Stomp, DrinkThere’s lovely longevity to this good-valueevent. Crush grapes in the Epocha backyardthen recover with lunch. Later in the year,return to taste your wine along with dinner.$150, Saturday March 9, 9am-3pm. Epocha,49 Rathdowne Street, Carlton.Super Healthy Home-made BreadBread-making is fun, healthy and enriching.Learn how to do it at this hands-on class,which also promises to send you home with apersonal baking plan. $150, Saturday,March 2, 12.30-3.30pm, and Wednesday,March 13, 6-9pm. Brasserie Bread,150 Thistlethwaite Street, South Melbourne.Traditional Pickers’ LunchThe final days of the festival are dominated byrural events, including this enticingexperience: join winemakers in picking,sorting and crushing grapes, then sit downwith the experts for lunch. $120, Friday,March 15, 10am-4pm. De Bortoli Wines,58 Pinnacle Lane, Dixons Creek.Bushfood Flavours Cooking SchoolNative herbs and spices are the new ‘‘it’’ingredients. Learn how to use and grow themat this hands-on class and lunch. $95, Sunday,March 17, 10am-2pm. Peppermint Ridge Farm,540 Tynong North Road, Tynong North.Slice and Dice Knife SkillsWonky potato dice? Curvy julienne carrots?Sharpen up your act at hands-on cuttingclasses. $89, Saturday, March 2, 10.30am-noon, 2-3.30pm. Chef’s Armoury, 422 ChurchStreet, Richmond.Melbourne’s Six Sister CitiesYou may never travel to Melbourne’s sistercities, but at least you can get a flavour ofthem, assisted by Hamer Hall restaurantTrocadero and the Melbourne SymphonyOrchestra. Bring on Boston, Milan, Osaka,St Petersburg, Thessaloniki and Tian Jin.$180, Saturday, March 2, 1-4pm. Arts Centre,Melbourne.

9 Mcover storyFebruary 24, 2013