©lonely planet publications pty...

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Banff , Jasper & Glacier ............. 220 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18What’s New ..................... 20If You Like... ..................... 21Month by Month ............. 24Itineraries ........................ 26Activities ......................... 30Travel with Children ...... 42Travel with Pets .............. 47Regions at a Glance ....... 50

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND BANFF, JASPER & GLACIER NATIONAL PARKS

The Parks Today ............. 230History ............................. 232Geology ........................... 240Wildlife ............................. 243Conservation .................. 250

The Parks Today Visitor Experience v Ecological Integrity As four of the world’s oldest and most symbolic national parks, Ban ,Jasper, Glacier and Waterton face a di cult modern quandary. On one hand they proudly represent what – in the words of a 2009 Emmy award–winning documentary – was ‘America’s best idea.’ On the other,they remain litmus tests for the planet’s ongoing battle to protect its wildbut delicate ecosystems from multiple human threats.

Set up in the late 19th and early 20th century as ‘parks for the people,’ the underlying philosophies that guide how these protected areas aremanaged have shifted signi cantly in the last decade with the focus mov-ing away from the ‘visitor experience’ mantra of the early conservationistmovement toward the more pressing question of ‘ecological integrity.’ This debate has grown more heated since the 1960s when the damagewreaked by millions of annual visitors rst became worryingly apparent.

Ban at the Crossroads These days an estimated ve million people pass through Ban annually and, due to the environmental pressure caused by such large numbers,many feel that the town has been stretched to its limit. Actions to tacklethis problem began in the early 1990s and in 1996, after two exhaustive years of research, the Ban -Bow Valley study compiled a 75- age

cument called At the Crossroads. Echoing the fears of many, the re ortstressed that if Ban ’s development plans and burgeoning visitor numbers were allowed to continue unchecked the ark’s ecological integrity

pulation of Townsite:

rage ber of s spent visitor in er National 11.9

mmals by cars

sper 2010:

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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

229GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Which national park you visit really depends on two things: what you want to see and how much time you have to spare. The vast majority of visitors kick off their stay in Banff, thanks to its comprehensive facilities, plentiful restaurants and family-friendly activities, not to mention easy access to wonderful trails.

If you have a bit more time for your trip, Jasper is the next natural stop, particularly if you’re interested in wildlife watching and backcountry hiking. Glacier receives far fewer visitors than the other two parks, so it’s the best option if you prefer the trails to be quiet and the crowds to be few and far between.

Ban Day Hikes Mountains Snow Sports

Scenic Wonders There’s a good reason that Ban is Canada’s most popular national park – it’s home to some of the most fabulous mountain scenery in the Rocky Mountains. Gleaming glaciers, snow-dusted peaks, roaring rivers: Ban ’s got it all.

Landmark Lakes Ban ’s lakes are impos-sible to miss, re ecting a myriad of colors under ever-changing skies, from vivid turquoises to emerald greens and ery oranges. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake draw the biggest crowds, but there are many more to discover.

Hot Springs Ban is synonymous with its geothermal springs. They were the park’s main attrac-tion for early visitors, and they’re still a highlight. Sit back in the naturally heated hot pools and drink in the wraparound mountain views.

p 54

regions at a glance

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Need to Know

Entrance Fees » Banff/Jasper day

pass: adult C$9.80, group/family C$19.60

» Glacier weekly pass (summer): per vehicle US$25

Number of visitors (2010)

» Banff: 3,174,043 » Jasper: 1,976,928 » Glacier: 2,200,048

High Season » July and August are

busiest months » Mainly warm

weather and sunny skies, but be prepared for sudden thunderstorms

» Trail closures and hiking restrictions during buffaloberry season (mid-July onwards)

Shoulder Season

» Spring comes late, with snow lingering until May or June

» Many lakes are frozen and some trails remain closed until early summer

» June is the wettest month in Banff and Jasper

Low Season » Late March to

May is the quietest season

» Accommodations can be cheap, but many campgrounds, trails and activities are closed

When to Go

Jasper National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)

GO Dec-Jan (skiing)

Banff National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)

GO Dec-Jan (skiing)

Waterton Lakes National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)

GO Dec-Jan (skiing)

Glacier National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)

GO Dec-Jan (skiing)

Dry climateWarm to hot summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold winters

Your Daily Budget Budget less than

C$100 » Dorm room in hostel

C$30-40

» Self-catering from supermarkets C$20

» Hiking on local trails using public transport

Midrange

C$200–300

» Double room C$120-180

» Lunch and dinner with drinks C$50

» One day’s compact car hire C$50

Top End over

C$400 » Suite in luxury hotel or

lodge C$300

» Three-course meal with wine C$80-100

» Guided minibus tour C$100

18

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PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

#

#

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Golden

RadiumHot

Springs

Castle Junction

Lake Louise Village

Banff Town

KootenayNationalPark

YohoNationalPark

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Beyond BanffBanff Essentials

Five DaysBan Essentials

With ve days you should have just enough time to see Ban ’s key sights. Kick o with a day exploring Ban Town, a lively mini-metropolis with a

cosmopolitan mix of shops, bistros, pubs and museums. Check in for some chateau luxury at the historic Fairmont Ban Springs Ho-tel, followed by a day exploring Lake Min-newanka, canoeing on the Bow River and relaxing in the Upper Hot Springs Pool

One WeekBeyond Ban

This itinerary takes in some of Ban ’s top day hikes, and then heads into the neighboring national parks. For the rst few days, base yourself in Ban

Town and spend the time breaking in those boots: you could hike up to a hidden ice eld at the C-Level Cirque, admire the Bow Val-ley from Castle Lookout, or trek through the colorful wild owers of Sunshine Meadows.

From Ban head west across the Alber

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(1,1) -2- banff-jasper-and-glacier-np-3-cover.indd 16/11/2011 11:21:00 AM(1,1) -2- banff-jasper-and-glacier-np-3-cover.indd 16/11/2011 11:21:00 AM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’


THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Oliver BerryBrendan Sainsbury

GlacierNational Park

p176

BanffNational Park

p54

JasperNational Park

p137

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 254Transportation ............... 261Health & Safety .............. 266Clothing & Equipment ... 272Index ................................ 280Map Legend .................... 287

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Keeping healthy while on vacation in the national parks depends on your pre-departure preparations, your daily health care while traveling and how you handle any medical problems that develop. While the potential problems can seem quite daunting, in reality few travel-ers experience anything more than an upset stomach.

If you have an emergency while staying in the national parks dial %911. Major cent-ers like Ban , Jasper and Wa-terton have medical facilities; see p 267 . If you’re traveling

t of your home country, ure to purchase medical

nce before you leave. It portant to read the

all print and as-what you are

Medical the

be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their necessity.

Some of the walks in this book are physically demand-ing and most require a rea-sonable level of tness. Even if you’re tackling the easy or easy-moderate walks, it pays to be relatively t, rather than launch straight into them after months of fairly seden-tary living. If you’re aiming for the demanding walks, tness is essential.

Unless you’re a regular walker, start your get- t cam-paign at least a month before your visit. Take a vigorous walk of about an hour, two or three times per week, and gradually extend the duration of your outings as the depar-ture date nears. If you plan to carry a full backpack on any walk, carry a loaded pack on some of your training jaunts.

e any m

» an(eg ibupro» bandages, gagauze rolls» DEET-containing insrepellent for the skin» elasticized support bandag» iodine tablets or water lter (for water puri cation)

» nonadhesive dressing» oral rehydration salts» paper stitches» permethrin-containing insect spray for clothing,tents and bed nets» pocket knife» scissors, safety pins, tweezers» sterile alcohol wipes» steroid cream or cortisone (for allergic rashes)» sticking plasters (Band-Aids, blister plasters)» sun block» sutures» syringes and needles – ask your doctor for a note ex-plaining why you have them» thermometer

Further ReadingInternational Travel HealthGuide by Stuart R Rose M(Travel Medicine Inc) ionly traveler’s healtthat is updated

Medicineeering

Health & Safety

PAGE

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Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s top recommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

S A green or sustainable option F No payment required

BANFF NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54SIGHTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Around Banff Town . . . . . . .65Lake Louise & Around . . . . . 67Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . .68DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Around Banff . . . . . . . . . . . . .69Around Lake Louise . . . . . . . 73DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Banff Town & Around . . . . . . 74Lake Louise & Around . . . . . 81Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . .86OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . . 90BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . . 96TOURS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Banff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Lake Minnewanka . . . . . . . .106Bow Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . .108Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . .109EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109Bow Valley Parkway . . . . . . 111Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 111DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT . . . . . . . . . . 112SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113

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On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . .113GETTING THERE & AWAY . .114GETTING AROUND . . . . . . .115AROUND BANFF NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . . .115Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Kananaskis Country . . . . . 121Yoho National Park . . . . . . 124Lake O’Hara . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 129Kootenay National Park & Radium Hot Springs . . .130Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

JASPER NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137SIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 142Jasper Town & Around . . . 145Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 147North of Jasper Town . . . . 148DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 151Jasper Town & Around . . . 153Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 155North of Jasper Town . . . . 156OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 157BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . 162TOURS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 166

Jasper Town & Around . . . 167Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 170North of Jasper Town . . . . 170EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 171Jasper Town & Around . . . 171Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 172DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT . . . . . . . . .172SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 173GETTING THERE & AWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 173AROUND JASPER NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . .174Mt Robson Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Hamber Provincial Park . . .175Willmore Wilderness Park . . 175

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176SIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . 179South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . 184North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . 184DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . 187South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . 191North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191

OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 193BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . 197TOURS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Going-to-the-Sun Road . . .201South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Going-to-the-Sun Road . . 204South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT . . . . . . . 205SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 205GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 206AROUND GLACIER NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . 206Waterton Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . . 206St Mary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220East Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . . .222West Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . .223Polebridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Blackfeet Indian Reservation . . . . . . . . . . . . .225Whitefish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225Kalispell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.’

Oliver Berry Coordinating Author, Banff National Park Oliver has trekked through many of the world’s mountain ranges, but he has never found anywhere that compares to the Canadian Rockies. He has hiked pretty much every trail in Banff and the sur-rounding national parks over the years, so he jumped at the chance to do them all again while writing this guidebook. He’s written regularly for Lonely Planet on many guidebooks, including France, Great Britain and The Lake District,

and also writes regularly for fi lm, music and travel publications, including Lonely Planet Magazine. When he’s not out on the road or up a mountain, he can probably be found on the beaches of his home county in Cornwall, UK. You can see some of his latest work at www.oliverberry.com.

Brendan Sainsbury Jasper National Park, Glacier National Park UK-born Brendan once ran 100 miles across the Cascade Mountains in an ultra-distance marathon, so researching the hikes for this book seemed like a dream job. He currently lives near Vancouver, Canada, with his wife and young son, but makes regular sorties for Lonely Planet to Cuba, Italy, Spain and the US in order to research. He co-authored the previous edition of this guide and also covered Jasper and Banff National Parks in Lonely Planet’s current edition of Canada. When not

writing, he likes playing piano and guitar, and visiting his favorite cities – London, Havana and Granada in Spain.

Read more about Oliver at lonelyplanet.com/members/oliverberry

Read more about Brendan at lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – February 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 405 2© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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