AUTUMN/WINTER 2014IN ASSOCIATION WITH

browns

LONDONFASHIONWEEK

2

WELCOME TO THELONDON FASHION WEEKAUTUMN / WINTER 2014 REPORT IN ASSOCIATION WITH brownsRegulars on the fashion circuit, Nelson Brown and Trae Corbett of browns in Dumfries joined the elite at London Fashion Week to assist backstage with the hairstyling and preparation of the many parading models.

Catching their breathes after the hectic weekend, Nelson and Trae returned to their salon, and along with their fashion-forward team compiled an in-depth fashion report which showcases all nine shows that both he and Trae worked on as well as detailing how you can achieve these key looks at home.

GOOD SALON GUIDE 3

THE FASHIONABLE CONTRIBUTORS:NELSON BROWNNelson Brown is the force behind one of the fastest growing hair salons in Scotland, Browns THE place to find hair perfection. Nelson and his handpicked expertly trained team create the kind of cuts and colours that turn heads and leave clients looking and feeling fabulous.

Nelson’s international reputation as an educator has seen him share his hairdressing skills with audiences in Milan, Paris, Berlin, Tokyo and New York and every fashion season he can be found backstage at London, New York and Milan Fashion Weeks’ creating show stopping catwalk hair for international designers.

Nelson worked at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 14 on the Holly Fulton, John Rocha, Julien Macdonald, Preen, Whistles, Simone Rocha and Meadham Kirchhoff shows.

TRAE CORBETTTrae Corbett has worked alongside Nelson Brown for the past six seasons at London Fashion Week. Trae often works closely with Nelson on photo shoots and educational seminars, and is often seen at the Wella World Studios as a guest artist.

Trae worked at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 14 on the Holly Fulton, Hunter, Preen, Temperley London, Whistles, Simone Rocha and Meadham Kirchhoff shows.

NICOLA LAMONTProfessional make-up artist, Nicola Lamont specialises in fashion, artistic photography and bridal make-up and can be seen working throughout the UK and Dubai for clients including The Daily Record, The Sunday Mail, Sunday Post, OK Magazine, Stila and Jacquies Dumfries.

Passionate about make-up, Nicola loves mixing her craft with the hair, fashion and nail industries, and is always changing and developing her skills to keep up with the latest trends and techniques.

Nicola’s views in the report are her own observations on the make-up created at London Fashion Week.

KATIE DYETDescribing her own personal style as effortless and ‘thrown on’, Katie is the in-house fashion stylist at browns and a Stirling University graduate. Katie often works behind the camera styling photo shoots and events for the browns team.

Katie’s keen eye for fashion and creativity works perfectly alongside the browns team and their edgy and fashion-forward approach to hair.

Katie’s views in the report are her own observations on the designers creations at London Fashion Week.

browns8 Whitesands, Dumfries, Scotland DG1 2RRTel 01387 249 944 / www.brownsthestylists.com

44

HOLLY FULTON

GOOD SALON GUIDE 5

HAIRAn awkwardly low positioned side parting kept in line with the temple was sectioned off and directed straight over behind the opposite ear. Mousse was applied liberally to add weight and help flatten the hair.

The back and right side sections were tied with elastic at the nape of the neck and the ponytail ironed for polish and flatness.

The remaining left side was combed over the ear to disguise it and wrapped around the base of the ponytail. The hair was then secured with elastic and smoothed over with gel for an ultra slick finish - this gave the hairstyle a modern, polished effect.

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANTS - Nelson Brown and Trae CorbettSPONSOR - L’Oreal

66

HOLLY FULTON

GOOD SALON GUIDE 7GOOD SALON GUIDE 7

MAKE-UPFlawless, minimal skin accented with a soft sheen on the cheeks and lips kept the models look healthy and fresh. Eyes were defined with a wash of copper on the eyelids and a copper line drawn in the crease.

To recreate this look Nicola suggests using Stila Illuminating Foundation for flawless skin and Mii’s Flutter eyeshadow for a flush of colour on the eyelid. For the copper line in the crease use MAC Divine Night Kohl Power eye pencil in Orpheus. Highlight the cheeks with MAC Strobe Cream and use YSL Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in 24 Blond Ingenus on the lips.

8

HOLLY FULTON

GOOD SALON GUIDE 9

CLOTHINGWorking businesswomen was the inspiration for London designer Holly Fulton, which was clear to see in her very sophisticated yet feminine designs.

Hand drawn exclamation marks and floral covered day coats, along with pleated skirts and flapper style dresses floated down the runway. Bangle draped wrists, bejeweled necklines and office attire spectacles illustrated Holly’s collection, whilst eggshell blue and dusky pink were the prevalent colours in her decorated imagery.

Overall Holly’s collection had a strong commercial aspect to it which makes it easily translatable to the high street.

1010

JOHN ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 11GOOD SALON GUIDE 11

HAIRA dry texture was added to the hair using Bumble & Bumble’s Surf Spray. The hair was then parted in the centre with a triangle (almost fringe section) taken and left out. The rest of the hair was tied very low to the neck in a ponytail and given a loose fluffy feel.

The front section was dried using Surf Spray and a diffuser to give a buckled texture. This was left out and down for the show.

LEAD STYLIST - Samantha Hillerby @ Streeters LondonASSISTANT - Nelson BrownSPONSOR - Bumble & Bumble

1212

JOHN ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 13GOOD SALON GUIDE 13

Make-upFresh, flawless, even-toned skin with no colour or definition on the cheeks and lips kept natural with a satin finish. The main make-up focus for John Rocha was all in the eyes, with a frosted silvery blue eyeshadow used only in the inner corners.

1414

JOHN ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 15GOOD SALON GUIDE 15

ClothingJohn Rocha is one of London’s most romantic designers and this was definitely reflected in his latest collection. His designs, inspired by light and nature, featured oversized ruffles like huge clouds and flowers sculpted from chiffon, tulle and lace.

These wonderful ruffles were strewn across gothic gowns and worn as collars and hats down the runway. Sheer dresses featured scattered cut-out petals - detailing so intricate, it made the collection look like beautifully molded pieces of art. Green, red and black were the dominant colours of this collection, featuring on, within and alongside extravagant volumes of material.

1616

JULIEN MACDONALD

GOOD SALON GUIDE 17GOOD SALON GUIDE 17

HAIRWet look hair pushed back and away from the face was the main style for Julien Macdonald’s catwalk show. This was achieved by applying a soft hold mousse through dry hair to create a damp feel all the way to the front.

The hair was then brushed through using a large paddle brush to give a loose feel. Once the mousse was applied throughout, the damp hair was parted side to side on the top to give a deep lined effect. At the back of the head a stitch was used snaking from one side to the other to hold the hair away from the face and keep it secure. The hair was then left to dry naturally.

This style gave a sexy, open faced fresh feel with modern texture - very key this season!

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANT - Nelson BrownSPONSOR - L’Oreal

1818

JULIEN MACDONALD

GOOD SALON GUIDE 19GOOD SALON GUIDE 19

MAKE-UPMinimal, fresh natural faces with vamped up eyes in either a pink/red or blue/teal eyeshadow was the main theme for Julien Macdonald’s autumn/winter show. The eyeshadow was blended all over the eye and right up to the eyebrows with minimal mascara to give a contemporary punk feel to the overall look.

To recreate a version of this Nicola suggests using Clinque Even Better Make up as your foundation which will help even out skin tone. Then for the blue/teal version of the eyes, use Urban Decay Haight and Radium eyeshadow over the eyelid and up to the eyebrow, if you’re feeling brave. For a softer version of the pink/red eye effect, sweep Urban Decay’s Woodstock over the eyelid.

Use Benefit’s Watts up Face Highlighter on the cheekbones to recreate the fresh-faced glow, and then finish off by using Dior Addict Gloss in Enchanted Rose.

2020

JULIEN MACDONALD

GOOD SALON GUIDE 21GOOD SALON GUIDE 21

CLOTHINGJulien Macdonald showcased a truly dazzling collection with shimmering dresses and jewel encrusted detailing. Architecture and stained glass windows were the inspiration behind his designs and this was clearly seen by the choice of colours used such as ruby reds, electric blues and emerald greens.

Fine detailing such as nude mesh embroidered with sequins and sparkly knitted beading really stood out on the runway. Overall Julien’s entire collection of evening dresses that captured the outstanding detail made for a very glamorous show.

2222

HUNTER

GOOD SALON GUIDE 23GOOD SALON GUIDE 23

HAIR‘The Explorer’ was the theme for Hunter’s runway show with hair styled rough, lumpy and plastered to the models’ heads.

For the boys, the hair, where possible, was broken up using cutting techniques and dressed with hairspray and dry shampoo for a lived in look. Random areas were held against the head using a net and dried to create texture and root movement.

For the girls, the hair was prepped with sea salt spray at the roots for texture and loosely pulled back into a ponytail allowing the natural finger marks to show. The hairline and top sections were tousled to create messy flyaway’s. This was then kept in place with hairspray and held against the head using a net to create a ‘plastered to the head’ look.

LEAD STYLIST - Malcolm Edwards @ Streeters LondonASSISTANT - Trae Corbett

2424

HUNTER

GOOD SALON GUIDE 25GOOD SALON GUIDE 25

MAKE-UPThe style of make-up used for the Hunter show was replicated to create the look of long brisk walks in the crisp autumn/winter air. Natural tones where used for a fresh faced feel and emphasized with flush cheeks. Peach hues were swept across the cheekbones and a soft natural gold shimmer gave the eyes a autumnal feel. The lips were kept nude and buff and they almost blended into the surrounding tone of the skin.

2626

HUNTER

GOOD SALON GUIDE 27GOOD SALON GUIDE 27

CLOTHINGBritish brand Hunter, known for its wellington boots, stormed the runway for the first time this season. The collection, designed with the British adventurer in mind, showcased high-shine trench coats, rubberized raincoats and puffer jackets down its flooded, waterlogged runway.

Hunter’s collection captures the courageous spirit of the Brit, with the use of bright primary coloured Paddington Bear duffle coats and scores of wellingtons. The colour palette of the solid knitwear, classic rainwear, balaclavas, neoprene scuba fabrics and high-tech fleeces consisted of aubergine purples, moss greens and shimmering silvers.

Hunter, fashion that protects us from the elements!

2828

PREEN

GOOD SALON GUIDE 29

HAIRDry hair that was prepped using sea salt spray to add lightness and texture was the main theme for Preen.

A loose centre parting was created using the fingers, and with an open barreled tong a light bend was made in opposite directions. This was then loosened with the hands and sectioned with the fingers behind the ears - making the left side slightly thicker than the right.

Once sectioned, the hair was split haphazardly into three and braided to the left side of the head with the intention of it looking awkward. This was then massaged out and stretched to form a distressed style.

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANTS - Nelson Brown and Trae CorbettSPONSOR - L’Oreal

3030

PREEN

GOOD SALON GUIDE 31GOOD SALON GUIDE 31

MAKE-UPPreen’s look was clean, contemporary and fresh with minimal make-up using only concealers to perfect the skin. Lilac and khaki tones were used sparingly on the eyes, and the lips showed minimal colour with a slight hint of a sheen.

To achieve this look Nicola suggests using Mii Luminous Tinted Moisturiser and perfect with Lancome Effacernes Concealer where needed to create a fresh and clean base. For the eyes use Bobbi Brown Long Wear Cream Shadow in Cool Lilac in the inner corner and Givenchy Le Prisme Yeux Mono eye shadow in Casual Khaki on the outer corner - keeping both very light and translucent. For the lips apply Mii’s Lip gloss in Sheen for a subtle hint of colour.

3232

PREEN

GOOD SALON GUIDE 33

CLOTHINGStar Wars was heavily incorporated into Preen’s latest collection, with Darth Vader’s face appearing on many of the items. The runway saw floaty midi-dresses with geometric shapes, quilt inspired prints partnered with high heeled leather boots, and a futuristic revamp was given to the original parka jacket by an addition of plastic belt clips.

The entire Preen collection based itself on simple clean shapes, but the devil was in the detail with intricate tucking, folding and draping.

3434

TEMPERLEY LONDON

GOOD SALON GUIDE 35

HAIRTemperley’s theme of ‘Bohemian Glamour’ was achieved by parting the hair awkwardly to the right side and sectioning low behind the ear. This section was then barrel tonged and pinned to leave to cool. Sections were taken haphazardly behind the ear, narrow to wide, allowing some strands around the hairline to dropout which were then scalp braided.

Once cool, the front sections were unpinned and brushed through to create gentle movement around the face. All of the hair, including the braids and waves, were then separated into three sections and braided below the right ear. The braids were massaged to loosen and dusted with Morrocanoil Hairspray for an added sheen.

LEAD STYLIST - Malcolm Edwards @ Streeters LondonASSISTANT - Trae CorbettSPONSOR - Moroccanoil

3636

TEMPERLEY LONDON

GOOD SALON GUIDE 37GOOD SALON GUIDE 37

MAKE-UPTemperley’s make-up was created by Lisa Eldrige and was in contrast to their collection with an accent blue eye that looked edgy and modern against fresh luminous skin.

Lisa created this look using Sunday Riley’s Effortless Breathable Tinted Primer and Liquid Light Foundation on the face. On the eyes Lisa used Kryolan’s BL.10 Aquacolour for the bright pop of blue and The Influencer Mascara in Midnight on the top lashes. For the lips she used Sunday Riley’s Modern Lip Colour in Mona Lisa for a sheer peachy tone.

CLOTHINGThis autumn/winter Temperley London created an edgier take on femininity and bohemian style - discarding innocent and cute for a more daring thigh-high boot!

The designer created a heritage and ceremonial dress collection that comprised of a vintage feel with decorative jacquard prints. This included flouncy skirts and large blanket-sized scarves wrapped like robes and gathered in by waist belts.

A modern twist on bohemian style with decorative floral prints and mosaic patterns covering coats and bandeau dresses. The Temperley collection mixes pretty with sensual, moving the focus from evening gowns to daywear.

3838

WHISTLES

GOOD SALON GUIDE 39GOOD SALON GUIDE 39

HAIRUsing Bumble & Bumble’s Thickening Hairspray, hair was prepped with a centre parting and blow-dried to create a polished finish for Whistles’ autumn/winter runway.

Hair around the hairline was slightly directed away from the face with any loose strays smoothed down. A straightening iron was then run across the hair to give a clean, blunt look.

A light application of Bumble and Bumble’s semi-sumo was applied to the hair behind the ears to help keep it in a tucked position. Small cards were also pinned at this section to keep hair in place before the models embraced the runway.

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANTS - Nelson Brown and Trae CorbettSPONSOR - Bumble & Bumble

4040

WHISTLES

GOOD SALON GUIDE 41GOOD SALON GUIDE 41

MAKE-UPPure, perfect skin with naturally strong eyebrows were the main feature at Whistles. The eyes were given a soft glossy sheen and the cheeks and lips a peachy nude tone.

CLOTHINGWhistles’ collection stayed true to their laid-back image with attention to detail and quality.

Blanket-check prints are big news in daywear for this coming autumn/winter season and Whistles showed this in their jacquard, mohair and silk coats. Slouchy trousers with folded waists were paired alongside heavy knitwear for a mixture of relaxed casual and minimalist eveningwear.

The entire Whistles collection can easily be mixed and matched and has been created for women who want simple sophistication.

4242

SIMONE ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 43GOOD SALON GUIDE 43

HAIRThree sections were taken snaking through the hair, from top to back and sides to back. All the soft baby hairs around the hairline were left out and pinned back for later.

The three sections were braided flowing along the crown, back of the head and down through the length. As the braid got to the end it was split evenly again and broken down through the natural neat flow of the braid - this was a key part to this look.

Once all three sections were braided, each line of braid was pulled and poked to dishevel and deconstruct the hair. The tails of the braid were gathered at the nape of the neck and secured in different ways to give each girl an individual finish.

Mousse was then sprayed onto the roots to give a messy finish. The front of the hair was left covering the face to give a vale appearance and dressed with a spray to support the disheveled style.

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANTS - Nelson Brown and Trae CorbettSPONSOR - Babyliss Pro

4444

SIMONE ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 45GOOD SALON GUIDE 45

MAKE-UPSimone’s make-up emphasis, as with many of the other catwalk shows, was on radiant fresh skin but with an accentuation of gold leaf on the forehead to create the reflection of light. A pop of metallic, textured colour that contrasted with the dark solid colours of the clothing was softened by smooth peachy pink lips and cheeks.

To recreate as an everyday wearable look Nicola suggests using Mii Cosmetics’ Flawless Face Base as your foundation. On the eyes use Glimmer Mineral Eye Colour wet to enhance the colour and then apply Peep eyeshadow over the top. For the cheeks use Mii’s Arouse Mineral Radiant Natural Blush softly so that it is almost not there. Nicola states that using their Moisturising Lipstick in Breathe will give a beautiful stain of colour to the lips.

4646

SIMONE ROCHA

GOOD SALON GUIDE 47GOOD SALON GUIDE 47

CLOTHINGSimone Rocha’s new collection was straight from the Elizabethan era with gathered sleeves and overstated hips. The necklines and shoulders of these dramatic coats and dresses were trimmed with embedded jewellery.

Simone’s reworked classic trench coat featured cropped proportions and was teamed alongside skirts with masses of volume tightly belted. Simone modernized her collection with high-shine yellow python skin, strong tartan patterns and ruffles that gave charge to boyish ankle grazers.

Simone Rocha’s interpretation of Elizabethan was a haze of costume gems, flounces and fur.

4848

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

GOOD SALON GUIDE 49

HAIRUsing a thickening product, the hair was prepped to add hold and a light fluffy texture. As with many backstage key looks this season, an awkwardly low left side parting was created and the hair was blow-dried into position ensuring flatness at the roots.

All of the hair was tonged using a loose Marcel technique, taking care not to create movement in the hair between the parting and recession section. Once cooled the texture was brushed with a bristle brush and the hair to the right of the parting was pinned back using a contrasting coloured pin.

LEAD STYLIST - James Pecis @ D+V Management LondonASSISTANTS - Nelson Brown and Trae CorbettSPONSOR - Babyliss Pro

5050

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

GOOD SALON GUIDE 51GOOD SALON GUIDE 51

MAKE-UPMeadham Kirchhoff kept their make-up pure and pale with satin skin, candy pastel eyes and a peach/pink soft lip - fresh, young and fun!

To recreate this look use L’Oreal’s True Match Foundation as your base. Create the candy coloured eyes using Dior 5 Couleurs Couture Colour Eyeshadow palette in Pastel Fontanges and finish off with a stain of Clinque Chubby Stick in Curvy Candy on the lips.

5252

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

GOOD SALON GUIDE 53GOOD SALON GUIDE 53

CLOTHINGMeadham Kirchhoff have built a label that disregards trend-led design and in its place have chosen to cultivate and refine an aesthetic that is both beautiful and rebellious.

Staying true to their reputation, shiny stage props such as giant love hearts and Chinese screens covered the catwalk. The designers presented a diverse collection, referencing everything from gothic to seventies disco and the circus.

Leather and velvet patchwork dresses; blouses with oversized bows teamed with platform metallic boots and reworked classic tailoring to produce super sized blazers were just a few of the sights seen on the runway.

As usual the Meadham show was an amazing experience, bringing the playfulness back into fashion.

GOOD SALON GUIDEJoin our Mailing List:

www.goodsalonguide.com/magazine

Visit us online:www.goodsalonguide.com

Contact Us:info@goodsalonguide.com

Find Us On:

Lead stylist: Samantha Hillerby @ streeters London. Assistant: Nelson Brown. Sponsor: Bumble & Bumble