lesson on lay and cut

8/2/2019 Lesson on Lay and Cut

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Lesson 8 109

Some areas of a garment are diff icult orimpossible to match. For instance, darts,diagonal shoulder seams, side seamsabove a bust dart. Sleeves cannot be

matched at both the front and backarmhole. Match the front because that iswhat people will notice most. Also, try tomake fitting adjustments before cutting outthe pattern. Adjusting a garment once it hasbeen cut out may mismatch the plaid.

For even plaids, align the plaid in onelayer with the plaid in the other layer ofthe folded fabric. Do this before layingany pattern pieces in place. To align theplaids, insert a pin in the plaid. Bring the

pin through the bottom layer of fabric atthe same point in the plaid. Repeatpinning in this manner at intervals thatwill hold the plaid in position. Leave thepins in place until the pattern pieceshave been cut out.

When cutting uneven plaids, use the sametechniques you use to cut uneven stripes.

110 Successful Sewing

Name ____________________________________

Date ______________________ Period _________

Activity 8-1: Practicing Folding and Laying Out the Pattern

Supplies needed:

paper pattern pieces 8A through 8K (pages 115 and 117)scissors glue or tape

This activity is made up of three problems. For each problem, cut out the spe

pattern pieces found at the end of the lesson. Also cut a piece of paper the size dimensions given to represent fabric from which the garment is to be cut. Try various

foldslengthwise, crosswise, partial, and doubleand ways of placing the pattern pon the fabric. Decide on the best way to fold the fabric and lay out the pattern pieces.

glue or tape the pieces in place. Attach your results to a sheet of paper. Be prepar

discuss your work.

Garment 1 Knit Top

Use pattern pieces 8A and 8B.

Cut a sheet of paper 4!/2 by 8#/4 inches for the fabric.

Consider the lengthwise grain to run parallel to the 4 !/2-inch edge. A permanent

lengthwise crease runs through the center of the fabric.

Garment 2 Skirt

Use pattern pieces 8C, 8D, and 8E.

Cut a sheet of paper 6!/4

by 11 inches for the fabric. Consider the lengthwise grato run parallel to the 11-inch edge.

Garment 3 Shirt

Use pattern pieces 8F, 8G, 8H, 8I, 8J, and 8K.

Use a single 8 !/2 by 11-inch sheet of paper for the fabric.

Consider the lengthwise grain to run parallel to the 11-inch edge.


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Lesson 8 111

Name ________________________________________

Date ______________________ Period _____________

Activity 8-2: Using the Instruction Sheet

You will be given a pattern instruction sheet. The instruction sheet and the information

in this lesson will be your sources of information. Look over the instruction sheet andanswer the questions below. Be prepared to discuss your answers.

1. Your instruction sheet shows a variety of pattern layout diagrams. Explain how toselect the pattern layout to follow. What information do you need to know in order

to make a decision about which layout to use?

2. What do the following shadings indicate?

Solid:

Unshaded:

Lined:

3. When using a crosswise fold, on which grain are the pattern pieces placed?

4. When using a lengthwise fold, on which grain are the pattern pieces placed?

5. The layout diagram shows two pattern pieces with the same number. However, youhave only one pattern piece in your envelope. What should you do?

6. Why is a crosswise fold sometimes used instead of a lengthwise fold?

7. What is meant when you see a layout diagram that has one pattern piece placed

halfway off the fabric?

8. Some layout diagrams may be labeled with nap or without nap. What do thesewords mean?

9. Can you use a with nap layout even if you do not have napped fabric? Explain.

(Continued)


10. Can you use a without nap layout with napped fabric? Explain.

11. In your own words, explain why following the layout diagram on the instrusheet is important.

12. How do you determine if pattern pieces are placed on the straight of grain?

13. What layout diagrams, other than for the main garment pieces, may be includ

the instruction sheet?

14. Explain the reasons for the following guidelines:

A. Never cut out pattern pieces with pinking shears.

B. Cut all notches out, away from the seam allowance.

C. Do not use the selvage edges of the fabric. If it is necessary to do so, beto clip the selvage about every !/2 inch.

D. Pin all pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting them out.

E. When cutting a single thickness of fabric, place the pattern printed side uthe right side of the fabric. Make an exception to this guideline when wowith uneven stripes and plaids.

15. Why should you follow the napped layout when sewing on knit fabric?

16. The crease line on knit fabric may not always disappear when pressed or waWhat must you do when cutting out pattern pieces if this is a problem?

Name ________________________________________


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Lesson 8 113

Activity 8-3: Evaluating Learning

Assess your understanding of layout, pinning, and cutting by completing the exercises

below.

1. Sketch the three ways of folding fabric. On each sketch, draw lines indicating thelengthwise, crosswise, and bias grainlines. Be sure to label the sketches and the

grainlines.

2. Briefly, explain how to select the correct pattern layout from those given on the

instruction sheet.

3. Explain, in your own words, how to place a pattern piece on the straight of grain.

4. What is the meaning of the word napped and why is it important when laying

pattern pieces on fabric?

5. Give three important suggestions for pinning pattern pieces to fabric.

6. Give three important suggestions for cutting out pattern pieces.

Name ________________________________________

Date ______________________ Period _____________


n o t e s


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Lesson 8 115

(Continued)

Pattern pieces for Activity 8-1

Garment 1 Knit Top

Garment 2 Skirt



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Pattern pieces for Activity 8-1

Garment 3 Shirt

Lesson 8 117 118 Successful Sewing

lesson on lay and cut

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