surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk APRIL 2012

2-for-1at Hampton Court Palace

Foodies Festival

Community

heroesOur annual celebration of the people making a big difference

Art & antiques Days out Food & drink Homes & gardens What’s on

A great walk around Dorking

Why now’s the time to visit Loseley Park

The gourmet hot-spot in Horley

A first class school... Cobham’s Notre Dame

The Chertsey musician on his favourite local haunts

The one and only Chesney Hawkes!

World Book Night

SPECIAL!We meet the Surrey authors who’ll be heading to Guildford

£3.15

PLUS: 200 Sandown Park Racecourse Ultimate Celebration tickets to be won! Not

re D

ame

Sch

ool,

Cob

ham

Reigate’s Nicholas Owenfrom armed sieges in Betchworth to life on the BBC newsdesk...

SL

surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk April 2012 SURREY LIFE 25

UPFRONT

Phil Dixon, general manager Gregory Broad, Mayor Brian Stead and hotel owners Deborah and Peter Hinchcliffe

Ann Pannell, Trish Breach and Jenny FinchHeinz Skalnik, Stuart Noble and Karl Rundgren

Surrey SceneSee more images from this and other Surrey events at surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk

New life at Langshott Photos: Ron Read

THE MAYOR of Reigate and Banstead, Brian Stead, joined staff at Langshott Manor near Horley to celebrate the relaunch of the hotel’s newly refurbished Mulberry restaurant.

In the company of owners Deborah and Peter Hinchcliffe, guests were treated to a range of food and drink at the event, including a selection from the restaurant’s new menu.

Surrey Life reviews the re-vamped restaurant on page 156.

Never miss an edition of Surrey Life magazine by subscribing now at www.subscriptionsave.co.uk/Surrey

St George’s Day Celebration Medieval Cellar Supper at Denbies Wine Estate, Dorking, on Friday April 20. Tickets £57 per person from 01306 876616, including a four-course meal with ale and wine.

Chocolate Treats ladies lunch with Denis Drame at Pennyhill Park on Monday April 23. Tickets £38 per person from 01276 486150, including a three-course lunch.

Dates for your diary…

Adam Smith, Jan Bretschenider and head chef Phil Dixon

Dorian and Helen Hammond with Jane ConnollyJo Colby-Relf and Sara Surrey

The mayor of Reigate and Banstead, Brian Stead, was guest of honourSue Shaw and Dee Mathieson

SL

156 SURREY LIFE April 2012 surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk

To the manor reborn...Steeped in history, Langshott Manor is found just a stone’s throw from Gatwick Airport and yet, somehow, also in peaceful seclusion. Matthew Williams paid a visit to enjoy some fine dining at their recently refurbished Mulberry restaurant...

Restaurant ReviewMulberry Restaurant, Langshott Manor, near Gatwick, Horley RH6 9LN: 01293 786680

ARRIVING at Langshott Manor on a chilly Monday evening felt like something from an Agatha

Christie murder mystery. The lights were on, the door was slightly ajar, but as we entered in through the front of the hotel things were eerily quiet, bar the humming of an unanswered phone upstairs.

A grand old 16th century building that has counted a Governor of the Bank of England among its owners, Langshott Manor is surprisingly serene considering its proximity to Gatwick – you feel like you’ve got lost in the middle of nowhere, yet are actually a ten-minute drive from a thriving international travel hub.

Just as we were wondering whether we had arrived on the right night, or whether we’d find a motley collection of strangers by the fire in the living room, a smiling face approached from the direction of the restaurant and our waiter, a Hungarian named Geza with years of cruise ship experience, invited us for aperitifs.

Passing a series of relaxed lounges, we were led to the newly refurbished Mulberry restaurant and in turn to a table overlooking the glorious gardens, where we later enjoyed watching a fox prowl around the moat. Tables are well-spaced and the new décor brings a modern, unfussy touch to take the historic setting into the 21st century.

Offered the seven-course tasting menu, which is available with pairing wines for each dish, we instead decided to mix and match from their à la carte menu (there is also a vegetarian menu on offer).

Service took a little time to warm up but was soon up to speed, and with a bottle of Rioja ordered, we received a butternut squash amuse-bouche of soup and jelly – a mouthwatering beginning.

For the starters, my fiancée Sylviane opted for the pressing of rabbit with pineapple and macadamia nuts, while I went for braised cheek and belly of white Sussex pork with forced rhubarb and chicory. They arrived along with homemade breads (my favourite was a pepper and parmesan offering – I could have eaten the loaf, if I’m honest). Service with a flourish My own dish was presented with a flourish, with sauce poured on arrival, and though I had been a little wary of the thought of rhubarb, I was quickly won over. The pork itself was succulent and was well-complemented by the fruitier flavours. Sylviane was similarly taken with the pineapple that sat atop her rabbit. Both dishes made every part of the palate work and looked good enough to be in an artisan cookery book.

The presentation of our main courses was also exquisite, with the ballotine a particular highlight of the guineafowl dish that Sylviane had chosen. I tried it, too, and but for my fondness for venison might have attempted to switch dishes while she was looking out the window. However, my choice, with the meat wrapped in calvo nero, and accented by beetroot, was equally as good.

It was my crème brûlée though that won dish of the day. If any of you have seen the film Amélie, you’ll know the great joy that cracking a crème brûlée can bring and, if you haven’t, you may feel just the same way anyway; a perfect classic and with the bonus of homemade shortbread on the side. Sylviane opted for the dark chocolate and pistachio torte, sorbet and jelly – and declared it to be delicious.

The cheese to follow was fantastic,

The Verdict:Food 9 / Venue 9 / Service 9

What we ate:À la carte: Three courses for £45 Starters:Pressing of rabbit with pineapple and macadamia nutsBraised cheek & belly of White Sussex Pork with forced rhubarb and chicoryMain courses:Roasted breast of guineafowl – braised leg, ballotine, potato gnocchi, wild mushroomsLoin of venison topped with a thyme and cognac mousalline with calvo nero, swede and beetrootDesserts:Dark chocolate and pistachio torte, sorbet and jellyCrème brûlée with homemade shortbread on the sideArtisan cheeses with apple chutney and pickled walnut bread, £10Coffee and petit fours, £4.50Drinks:Marques de Caceres, Rioja Crianza, 2007, £33

with selections served on a breadboard accompanied by a cinnamon infused apple chutney and a mini loaf of bread.

At £45 a head, the Mulberry isn’t cheap, but that cost is certainly reflected by the location and food on offer – and, with murder mystery worries a distant memory, we left Langshott Manor with a greater understanding of why literary stars, music producers and film directors have been known to frequent the hotel. Clue: it’s not just because of the airport…

FOOD & DRINK

SL

surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk April 2012 SURREY LIFE 157

Reader’s reviewEvery month, we publish the best of our readers’ restaurant reviews from surrey.greatbritishlife.co.uk. Courtesy of Denbies in Dorking, the winning entrant receives four tour vouchers for their indoor sparkling wine experience and a bottle of their award-winning Whitedowns Sparkling Wine.

The Canbury Arms, Kingston upon ThamesBy John Whittingham, Staines

TUCKED away in north Kingston, between the River Thames and Richmond Park, The Canbury Arms proved a real gem of a find. Not only was the food excellent but they also had Hogs Back, Surrey Hills and Twickenham Ale beers on tap, which was a highlight (not that I tried them all!). We both opted for the ‘Original Canbury Burger with Smoked Bacon, Cheddar Cheese and Homemade Chips’, which at £10.95 proved great value and not your average burger. Really tasty stuff in a relaxed setting. Next time we are in the area, we will certainly be making the journey back for a fuller meal as the menu looks great.

The Canbury Arms, 49 Canbury Park Road, Kingston upon Thames KT2 6LQ: 0208 255 9129

Set in a 16th century building, the newly refurbished Mulberry restaurant is well worth a visit

FOOD & DRINK