kampala workers, lagos

our story our struggle

This booklet emerged out of discussions in a work-shop with representatives of the National Union of Tailors, Lagos.

The workshop was facilitated by Ismaill Bello of the National Union of Textile Garment and Tailoring Workers of Nigeria (NUTGTWN) and Bobby Marie of TIE GLOBAL.

tie is a global grassroots network of workers active in workplaces and communities.

It includes both union and non-union activists in the formal and informal sectors.

tie aims to encourage, organize, and facilitate in-ternational consciousness and cooperation among workers and their organizations in various parts of the World.

What is Kampala, how do we produce Kampala, what are our difficulties, what is our vision for the future, what are we doing to bring about change?

In this booklet, we present our answers to these ques-tions. Our aim in producing this booklet is to firstly develop a common voice as Kampala workers and secondly to win support from Nigerians and Nigerian organisations to our plight.

Why should you support our struggle?

• We are an important part of the economy of Ni-geria.

• We are an important part of Nigerian culture and tradition.

• We are job creators. • Supporting the kampala workers is supporting

changes to the Nigerian economy to make it serve the majority of people, not a tiny rich elite.

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n Kampala is an African fabric used in traditional clothes at social outings such as weddings and par-ties. Kampala production was brought to Lagos in the 1970’s by Gambians, Guineans and Senegalese. These producers passed on their craft to local La-gosians.

We make two types of cloth: tie and dye and batik

Batik involves making patterns on a cloth using a wax. We wax the cloth according to our design. We mark the cloth then, trace with needle and thread. Then, we mix colors with chemi-cal. We now dock the cloths inside the chemical we have mixed. After that we leave for 10 minutes then bring it out and raised it then, we loosen the thread, we then add starch to make the cloth shine. Then, we spread it to dry. After drying we use native iron to hit it so that it will be easy to fold.

 

 

In tie and die we create the design, trace it and copy the design on cloth. Then we tie the cloth and die it in dif-ferent colours. We then apply starch to the cloth and spread the cloth out to dry. Finally we iron the cloth and prepare it for the customer or sale in the market.

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Kampala producers have their elders. These are the people who learnt kampala work from Gambian kampala workers who lived in Lagos. The elders practiced kampala work and passed on the craft to many young people. The elders are now in their late 70’s

In Aglere the kampa-la production takes place in backyards of the owners house or is rented from other householders.

Aguda which is lo-cated on the banks of canal. Some of the producers rent extensions of land adjacent to the ca-nal.

 

There are two sites in Lagos: Aglere and Aguda.

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ers We get no help from our government and we are being

exploited by local importers and exporters and global traders. The only power we have is our unity. We have turned to the trade union to help us survive as kampala workers and progress so that we have a decent life.

1. Space and proper infrastructure

• Instability of weather – if you are drying outdoors, your production is disrupted in the rainy season. Therefore you need indoor space to dry

• The Kampala industry has grown up in backyards and open spaces of land especially around the canals. This has lead to major advantage for the producer as it brings down the costs of production tremendously. However it frustrates the development of the industry, its productivity, quality, use of newer technologies etc.

• The producers experience serious problems with access to water, drainage. Work has to stop in most open air yards due to rain etc.

• The poor infrastructure makes conditions of work very dif-ficult for workers in this sector.

• Insufficiency water supply .We don’t have formal water supply sometimes we have to dig boreholes.

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2. Problems with purchasing raw materials

• Instability of Prices • Key inputs (cloth, chemicals) are imported from places like

India china, Germany. These are brought into the countries in a variety of ways, including smuggling ,

• The prices are usually manipulated by the importer and market trader. There is a widespread practise of hoarding to raise the price. This creates enormous price instability. This makes us not to have a stable market.

• Quality of raw materials become a problem. • Many new and cheaper products from China and India are in

the market but they are of a poorer quality compared to the few German products in the past.

• The chemicals we use before were German products but now we use Chinese products which are not as active as the Ger-man products and they are very expensive.

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3. Piracy

Pirated cloth is of low quality. Customers bring them to us for redying All the designs that we make in our industry are being pirated by the Chinese producers, who copy our designs and bulk print them in China and sell them in our market at lower prices then our cloth.

Our product therefore moves more slower in the market. Piracy has led to a lot of Kampala producers leaving the industry. This hasn’t only affected the traders, but has less-ened the value of the job. Local youth buy and sell pirated kampala materials

Five or six years back, we did not experience piracy. We don’t have any agency or government parastatals that help secure our patterns or our designs in market.

Pirated cloth is of low quality. Customers bring them to us for redying.

4. Capital

We lack capital to spend on the project like materials – 100% fabric or cloth, dye stuff, chemicals, water, candle wax, workshop, firewood plastic bowls, gloves, yam powder, bench, table, stool, starch, local beating, stove, needle and thread,

We need money in advance to purchase basic materials. We require larger capital to buy in bulk or maybe import our-selves and to thereby avoid prices going up and down. We don’t have credit facilities and or get any subsidization.

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5. Marketing

A few big kampala marketers are mak-ing more money than the producers, because they have all the money to move around. They even attend ex-hibitions in Europe, Asia, America and to some rich countries in Africa. They also have the money to get good shops at strategic locations.

We need to develop the capability of exporting our own materials ourselves because exporters are making large amounts of money from exporting our products.

We experience many problems in selling our products • Giving credit and collecting debts • Getting job contracts • Lack of space to market the prod-

uct• Transportation

We need a place like Kampala Village or Kampala Plaza

6. Health Problems Kampala workers do not complain about health problems because being self employed there is no one to complain to. This then leads them to be insensitive to the health problems of people who work for them. Here are some problems:

• There are some chemicals or stuffs that after using them you need to take some vitamins/drugs to rejuvenate your body; how many of us can afford all these?

• Repetitive Stress from Stamping • In Oguda production takes place on the banks of an extremely pol-

luted canal this effects the health of the workers here.• We have problems when we dye cloth because we stand over water

boiling in drums over an open fire.7

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We believe government can play an important role in helping develop our industry. Government can:

• Set up and support a kampala producers corporate society where we can get funds for the members of the association so that we can lend money to buy the materials in bulk (cloths, chemicals, threads, etc.)

• Set up an agency that will protect our designs; ex-ample, Nigeria Copyright Commission (NCC).

• Assist us get technical training marketing strategies and orientation on how they can operate adequately in the sector.

• Assist us get amenities which can increase our pro-ductivity and provide working conditions for workers..

• Sponsor our members to International Seminars and workshops. They should expose us to international market by sponsoring our trips to international exhi-bitions.

• Liase with insurance companies for the welfare of our members.

• Establish a central market for kampala producers where the shops’ fees are reasonable.

• Promote our indigenous design and productions in the media.

how government can help

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The Kampala workers who have developed a close relationship with the NUTGWNU have organised themselves into the Kam-pala Workers Union . They have a membership, collect dues and have an elected executive. They meet once a week and discuss common problems.

The idea of starting a union started in the 90’s but it was in 2008 that Comrade Bolaji Dada lead the move to form a union. We then called talked to our elders Comrade Sylla and Comrade Gani at Aguda and some other comrades in Akerele to form Kampala Union in Nigeria. It took us a long time to get ourselves organised in which by the Grace of God, now we are registered under NLC.

This union is very different from the private and public sector unions. For example, while there is an “executive committee” or “office bearers”, the “elders” i.e. the older people play an important role in holding the kamapala community together, giving them direction and maintaining discipline.

Kampala workers agree that they need a union because:

• They need one voice on setting the prices of the good since the cost of materials are always changing• They need a strong voice to lobby for support against the manipulations of the Importers • They need to find ways of accessing materials at the source and not be victims of corrupt importers.• They need to get finan-cial support • They need further techni-cal information to develop their industry.

what the union can do

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Ibrahim Adebayo Lawal was born on September 13, 1979 in Lagos by Kwaran parents. He attended Pi-lot Primary School, Malete in Moro Local Government Area of Kwara State; Belthel Comprehensive Col-lege, Mushin in Lagos Nigeria; and National Institute of Cultural Orien-tation, Lagos. He is the third in a family of 10 children (all boys).

Shortly after I finished my Primary Education, I went to learn sewing from Alhaji Drammeh, a Senega-lese resident in Nigeria. After serv-ing Alhaji Drammeh for six years, I moved to Franca Fashion located at Bode Thomas, Lagos, Nigeria. I also worked with Princess Abba Folawiyo, the owner of famed La-banella Fashion. Thereafter, I went to Jimi King Art Fashion where I honed my skills in textile designing with interest in the development of intricately woven wall hangings, customized bags and table clothes designed with indigenous fabrics.

I have participated and organized a number of fashion and textile exhibitions. Some of these include: Shobande Talents Hunts Show (2007), Ikoko Meta Movie Pre-mier, White House, Ikeja – Lagos; the wave-making Agbara Asa Arts Fashion Show (2008), Ikeja; Lagos Centre for Black African Arts and Civilization (CBAAC); Black History Month (2009); and Workshop for Cultural Rejuvenation of National Integration and Sustainable De-velopment, Lekki Peninsula Resort, Ajjah – Lagos; the World Culture Day Celebration in Abuja; and the Yoruba World Film Festival, Nation-al Theatre, Lagos.

I also co-ordinated Alegbajumo

Fashion Show (a subsidiary of Olokun Festival Foundation) held at Villa Park Hotel, Amuwo, Lagos; Emirate Vocational Scheme, Ilorin, Kwara State; Chief Instructor for FESTAC Reloaded Concept Nigeria and Ghana; International Confer-ence on Pan-Africanism, Interna-tional Conference Centre in Abuja; etc.

My frustration with Kampala work is that we need financial support from the Government, even with our tax money they still ignore us in the sector. The Kampala marketers are making more money than the producers, because they have all the money to move around. They even attend exhibitions in Europe, Asia, America and to some rich countries in Africa. They also have the money to get good shops at strategic locations.

Those that import the materials we use like cloths, chemicals and threads, because they are private companies and some rich indi-viduals, increase cost price at any given opportunity. This makes us not to have a stable market. The welfare of our members is poor. There are some chemicals or stuffs that after using them you need to take some vitamins/drugs to reju-venate your body; how many of us can afford all these?

We don’t have any agency or gov-ernment parastatals that help se-cure our patterns or our designs in market. I pay a lot of money in searching for local and internation-al exhibitions, and when I am sent invitation letter to participate in an international exhibition, embassies still turn me down.

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They say I don’t have enough money in my account, which means if I don’t have money in my account I cannot participate in any international exhibition. It’s really frustrating. I registered un-der Lagos State Council for Arts and Culture and National Council for Arts and Culture. I did this so that they can help me secure VISA for international shows, but all to no avail.

Even with all the efforts of trying to be a good and responsible citi-zen, they still don’t encourage us; instead they celebrate kidnappers and the enemy of State.

With the support of government, we need a corporate society where we can get funds for the members of the association so that we can lend money to buy the materials in bulk (cloths, chemicals, threads, etc.)

My Suggestions for Change: We need a strong government agen-cy that will protect our designs; example, Nigeria Copyright Com-

mission (NCC). There should be a workshop or seminar for the producers on marketing strategies and orientation on how they can operate adequately in the sector. Government should provide a con-ducive environment that has all the necessary amenities that can suit our work.

They should sponsor our mem-bers to International Seminars and workshops. They should ex-pose us to international market by sponsoring our trips to interna-tional exhibitions.

The sector executives should li-aise with insurance companies for the welfare of our members. Gov-ernment should provide a central market for kampala producers and the shops’ fees should be reason-able.

Government can employ all the producers, maybe if they invest in the business they will protect it enough, and they have all the media that can project our indig-enous design.

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un I am Com. Kamilu Balogun, am 30 years of age, born in Abeokuta in Ogun State. I live in Aguda Surulere Local Government, Lagos State Nigeria, I became Kampala maker in the year 1999 because of my self and for benefit of the people around me. I love kam-pala because of self employment job, and very creative.

My frustrations with kampala work are:1. Inadequate funds 2. Instability of weather3. Inflation of raw material4. Piracy5. Inadequate of original fabric6. Lack of original chemical7. Insufficiency water supply8. Provision of credit facilities

and subsidization9. Instability of price of the good

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I was born in Lagos but a native of Osun State.

I became a Kampala worker when I was in the primary school. Any time we came back from school, we normally go to the people do-ing kampala to help them so that they can give us little money.

However it was when I started my secondary school that I be-came aware that I can also do something with it. So I decided to go and learn it very well from my boss ASAMA, alias “Dudunla.” When I finished my apprenticeship, I started doing it for a living and

ever since, I have never regretted doing it. So glory be to God.My frustration is capital, fabric, dye stuff, chemicals, candle wax and workshop. So I believe with the support of NUTGTWN, we will get to the right destination.

I love Kampala work because I un-derstand it very well and also get a lot of money from it. I pray that we get support from different sources so that they can see what we are doing and understand us. I love Kampala and I am proud to be a member of NUTGTWN (Adire and Kampala Sector).

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Mr. Bolaji Dada was born in 1967 in the City of Lagos State in Suru-Lere, Nigeria. I went to Primary School and I completed my Sec-ondary education in 1984 in Ondo State. After that I went to Akure where I did my Advance study in 1985 – 86.

I started my business career by travelling to Moronvia, Liberia for business transactions. I am mar-ried with three (3) children.

I became a Kampala worker in 2001 after I came back from Libe-ria after the war broke out and I lost everything.

I love kampala work because it is a work that is very creative; be-cause all about kampala is crea-tivity. Moreover, I used to be an artist in my school days. The work always keeps one very busy daily. I love the work because I am do-ing it for my living and I have used it to achieve many things – I got married, I send my children to school, I feed my family, I pay my house rent and take care of other responsibilities – all from kampala work.

However the other side of the sto-ry started when the industry start-ed to downsize. My frustration started with high cost of material such as fabrics, chemicals (dye, sulphite powder and caustic soda), and piracy of kampala designs by the Chinese.

Piracy: has caused a lot of things in our industry. It will not allow our product to move in the mar-ket. Five or six years back, we did not experience piracy. Things were going on fine but since the issue of piracy came into the mar-ket, things have changed totally. This is how frustration started.

All the designs that we make in our industry are being pirated by the Chinese and sold for lesser prices, thus frustrating our efforts. Thus it became hard for us to meet up. For this reason a lot of people have let the industry.

Secondly, the high cost of fabrics (material) that we use in the in-dustry, that is, Africa No. 1 Guinea Brocade, is another reason for our frustration.

Some groups of people have mo-nopolised the sale of the fabric that they can increase the price at any given time, which we can not do because we cannot speak with one voice. People sell at any price.

Thirdly, in addition to the fabrics, the chemicals we use in the indus-try are imported. The Kampala Union can therefore not get them directly from the source.

Solution: We need the unionists to help our industry and talk to the government in the area of the material we are using.

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Moreover, they should help our in-dustry in terms of funds because we need money to establish our-selves. We shall be very grateful if other organisations can help

our industry. Our vision is to take this union, Kampala Union, to the next level. The union shall be very grateful for any assistance.

My Name is Com. Ibrahim – Ishola Mumuni. I live at No 16 Animashaun St. Ijeshatedo La-gos Nigeria. I became a kampala maker in 1986 because of the interest that I have in creating and designing, its also a family orientated business. I love kam-pala because of the dreams that I have in making people look good and unique.

The main problem I always en-counter in the business are;

1. Capital2. Land3. Water4. Material such as:a. Dye stuffb. Chemicalsc. Brocades in various ways5. International exposure6. Piracy7. Transportation8. Price control9. Market point of sales10. Support from the unionC

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My name is Ayubu Onieyeden Orit-shejolomi. I was born in Lagos on April 23, 1977 to the family of Mr. & Mrs. Queen Oritsheweyinmi Ayubu both from the Akporere fam-ily of the great Okpara Island in Ethiope East in Delta State, South-South, Nigeria.

Lagos, Nigeria, a city rich in re-sources and information to empow-er yourself with numerous opportu-nities. Basically because I was born in Lagos, Surulere and we grew up in the same environment where we have foreigners from other neigh-bouring countries like the Gambi-ans, Guineans and Senegalese from the 70s whose main occupation is the Kampala work.

Kampala is the job that made me my first thousands and independ-ence which also saw through dif-ferent facets of life. I held stardom in my eyes but all is about to be crushed by the furies of the unloved ones, the Capitalists, who monopo-lised and dictates every activity of our imported materials; and also pirate our finished products – tak-ing samples to countries like China and India; causing death of work and recession to the industry.

My Ref:- The then Olusegun Obas-anjo regime initiated several means to bring the manufacturing of these materials into Nigeria but all ef-forts proved abortive. Only God can save us from the hands of these Capitalists!

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wa I am comrade Ganiyu Olayinka

Omolewa, born in Lagos State, 31years ago at Muslim Local Gov-ernment area, I am married with three kids, I live at No32 Oladime-ji street, Aguda S/L Lagos and I make Kampala by profession, I am also the NUTGTWN affiliate under NLC, my phone No: 08023069280.

I became a kampala worker through a low salary of the work I learnt from a printing company. I had the experience during the time I was in school, then after school hour, we help the xxxx to get our peanut money, then thank God almighty today I married, have my kids, take responsibility from kampala, that’s why I cherish it most. I love kam-pala work because it is part of me just like an hobby day after

day I get more experience, creative and exposed in kampala business. I wish to be expose locally and in-ternational have my own shop, with God by my side my name became knowing throughout the world.

My frustration with kampala work is three things one is Economy, Marketing and my fellow producer’s that refused to joined our union for them not to join the union makes us lack one voice on price Control, on economy, materi-als increase day after day but we can’t increase our price because the marketer will not accept it and if you refused to supply the rest will do, it frustrating.

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My name is Aboudulaye Sylla. I was born in the State of Labe, District of Mali Dongel Segon Guinea, in 1952.

I was born into the profession. It’s my tradition from my parents for this has dwelled in our family from generation to generation.

I came to Nigeria in 1979 with the knowledge of the trade and hence, created opportunity for myself. Many people have come to learn this trade during the 80’s, 90’s and till this day. I have taught so many of them who are now successful business men and women in the profession.

Over the years, the standard and value of the job began to lose balance from our customers and the market at large as a result of piracy from the Chinese, Indians, etc. We started experiencing poor capitals and realised that our pi-rated products are being duplicat-ed and sold at low price.

Even the youths of today who do not take time to gain knowledge of the trade indulge themselves into the fraudulent act of piracy in order to fetch quick cash.

This hasn’t only affected the trad-ers, but has lessened the value of

the job. This has therefore made our customers (old/new) purchase the fabric that are being designed from the factory abroad by the foreigners who visit the country often for tourism.

It has gotten worse for even an average man to sustain himself; the samething occurs to a man with his family at home.

I see all these things as test of time, challenges and obstacles but the Lord will always shine his in-finite mercies on us. We are still doing what we do best and I be-lieve that one day our miseries will be over.

Today I am a proud Comrade of NATIONAL UNION OF TEXTILE GARMENT AND TAILORING WORK-ERS OF NIGERIA (NUTGTWN) IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE Nigeria labour congress (NLC), a union that brings all Kampala traders together to fight and take down pirates killing the quality of this profession.

I have a dream for this trade be-cause the good times for us all is yet to come; it’s on its way. I pray we all live comfortably in the business. “United we stand, di-vided we fall.” WE!!! WA!!!

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My name is Habeeb Animashaun born into the family of Animashaun in Lagos Island LGA on July 15, 1973. I grew up in Maza Maza known as Oriade LCDA in Lagos State.

I attended Maza-maza Prima-ry School and I proceeded to Amuwo-Odofin Secondary School where I obtained my Secondary School Certificate.

I became a Kampala worker at a young age because I am from a polygamous family and most of us have to fend for ourselves. In early 80’s when I was in Primary 3, I started learning the work. My boss and I later moved to Aguda for continuity.

In Aguda, we started BATIK de-sign and we did that for several years before I got my freedom. After my freedom, I moved back to Maza-maza to be on my own. I started teaching people and a lot of them have gained their freedom from me. I later moved to Akerele in Suru-Lere, Lagos.

I love Kampala work because I se-riously believe in it. I am always

dreaming of Kampala and I have a serious vision about Kampala which is now coming through. The idea of starting a union started in the 90’s but it was in 2008 that Comrade Bolaji Dada called me to say we should form a union.

We then called one of our Daddy, Comrade Sylla and Comrade Gani at Aguda and some other com-rades in Akerele to form Kampala Union in Nigeria. It took us a long time to get ourselves organised in which by the Grace of God, now we are registered under NLC.

My frustration is that I keep won-dering why Nigerian government will ban the importation of Guinea Brocade. We don’t have a place to sell Kampala, like Kampala Vil-lage or Kampala Plaza. The chem-icals we use before were German products but now we use Chinese products which are not as active as the German products and they are very expensive. Another prob-lem we are having is piracy by the Chinese and one so-called Mr. Ajike in Balogun Plaza (Market). We want the Federal Government to assist us with loans to beef up our industry. God Bless.

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I am Comrade Ayinde Seye Taju-deen. I was born on the 13th of October 1979 in Lagos Mainland, Lagos State but a native of Abe-okuta South, Ogun State. I am a student of Lagos State Polytech-nic, Insurance Department (OND holder), and the Assistant General Secretary of Kampala Union.

I became a Kampala workers through a late friend’s brother called Isiaka popularly known as “souk leather” in Canal area, womewhere in Aguda, Sure Lere, Lagos in the year 1999. When the struggle to surive became so hard, he advised me that there is a kind of work called Kampala and that if I don’t mind its dirti-ness, I will survive through it with something to eat, and every other things would be minimised as time goes on.

I found it so easy being into Kam-pala industry and I am very grate-ful today. I love Kampala work because it has helped to finance so many things in my life. I was able to start from where I stopped in my education, my life style; in fact with the little I have, glory be to God.

My frustration with Kampala work is firstly is that we lack capital in times of little money to spend on the project like materials – 100% fabric or cloth, dye stuff, chemi-cals, water, candle wax, workshop, firewood plastic bowls, gloves, yam powder, bench, table, stool, starch, local beating, stove, needle and thread, exporting the product on own own, etc. All these are needed and it will make Kampala industry grow for the next millen-nium, and with the support of our mentor from NUTGTWN, we will arrive to our destination.

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I am comrade Isiaka-Aribidesi.

I became a Kampala worker in the year 1989. I love kampala be-cause is a good work and is a self employment. My frustration in kampala are:

a. Increment of material time to timeb. We lack good material

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My name is Adijatu Shoyoye. I am Owode xxxxx Local Government, I was born in the year 1959 on 22nd of March.

Family I came from: the family I came from in Ogun State is from the family of Alawonla in Oke Ig-bore Abeokuta. The name of my father is Pa Rabiu Oni and my mother name is Omotunde Osun-mo. The occupation of my parents was the dye business but mostly I learn the business form my grand-mother was the one that thought me how to do tie and dye from my grandmother I know how to do Tie and Dye.

Married: I got married in the year 15th of August 1977. The name of my husband is Mr Morufu Shoyoye and the is an engineer. We both have five children, four female and a boy. We both stated together but some of my female children have gotten married.

Other experience: I learnt about Baloon Decoration and also ca-tering service. Also learn modern way of Dye (Kampala) because it is what I love doing.

Material needed for Kampala (Dye & Tye):

1. Capital for production and buying of materials

2. Fabrics ie. Cloths that can be died for Kampala Production.

3. Dye stuff (BSF indantriae)4. Chemicals (Hydro Sulphate)5. Caustic –Soda6. Water (Hot and cold)7. Wax. (Stamps & Pen)8. Fire wood for boiling of water

Kampala Preparation: if we want to prepare Kampala we will mark the cloths then, trace with needle and tread. Then, we mix colours with Chemicals. We now dock the cloths inside the chemical you have mixed. After that you leave for 10 minutes then bring it out and raised it then, you loose the thread. After loosing the tread you add starch to tie to make the cloth shine. Then, you spread it to dry. After dryness we use na-tive iron to hit it so that it will be easy to fold.

So, kampala is an African Fabric on Atire That can be used for so-cial outing like wedding and social functions.

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