kajehallar - mountain environment · 38. röde orm 6 face climbing behind the free standing block....

October 2013 edition

© Steve Bone, Denmark in association with www.mountain-environment.com

KAJEHALLAR

INTRODUCTION

The link http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Kajehallar describes how to find the crag, and

some of the routes mentioned below.

Approach times vary between 5 to 15 minutes from the road. The crag lies in beautiful woodland,

which means that some routes dry slowly, and can be a bit green or dirty after rain. But because

there are so many large trees at the top of the crag it is easy to find anchor points.

Leading with half ropes is highly recommended for many of the routes, and two long slings will be

found useful for setting up belays. As far as protection is concerned the usual range of wires and

Friends/ Cams are ideal. Micro-wires or micro-cams are also useful on many of the routes.

I am grateful for the hard work of Kristian Karlsson, Peter Hermanson, Mattias Lundqvist and

Dennis Lindwall, who put the Halmstad Föraren together (guidebook from the 90’s) and opened up

many of the routes on the first sections of the crag.

GRADES

Most of the new routes have been opened up by cleaning them when abseiling. Then they have been

top roped with a petzl self belay device. This means that some routes that are currently marked as

“top rope” can actually be led, either when I get a belay, or by other climbers.

Because there are so few people climbing the routes, most of the grades are not firmly established

yet. The more stars by the name of the route, the better the route according to me.

I have used green for routes up to 4+, red for 5-, 5 or 5+, and black for 6- or harder routes.

ASCENT & DESCENT

There is a path along the top, and another at the base of the crag (Ho Chi Minh Trail). The paths are

linked via steep ascents/descents, when facing the crag they are: to the right of Mucky Pup (route

#1), to the left of the Low Road (route #17) and a scramble to the left of Shorty (route #65).

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Kajehallar



KAJEHALLAR OVERVIEW

To The Road

Descent ORIGINALVÄGGEN

TOP OF THE CRAG

Mr. Mean (#10)

Descent Jam Session (#16)

INTROVÄGGEN

Hex eater (#23)

El Kamino (#25)

Clodhoppers (#30)

BLACK LABELVÄGGEN

Black Label

Röde Orm (#38) RED LABELVÄGGEN

Ninth Life (#41)

The edge continues but it is loose and very steep, until the Wrinkled Slab Area



Wrinkled Slab (#43)

Ready for a runner (#46)

WRINKLED SLAB AREA

TOP OF THE CRAG

Kiwi (#53)

Babylon Corner (# 56)

Pinch Buttress (#59)

Twister (# 61)

PINCH BUTTRESS AREA

(called Nya Väggen on Sverigeforaren)

Widowmaker (#63)

Shark Fin (#66)

Steep Descent

The edge continues into thicker woodland



ORIGINALVÄGGEN

1. Mucky Pup 5+

Often damp. Led Steve Bone 2003. Possibly the same as

Runout by Björn Hedberg 2007 on Sverigeforaren

2. Thor's Scare 6-

More difficult route than it looks. The crux is

to move onto the face of the slab. Alternative

top rope exit (6) after reaching the overlap,

move awkwardly left and climb the arête. Led

Thor Nielsen 2008 (alternative exit Steve Bone 2010).

3. Zulu 5 *

Gets harder the higher you climb. Often damp

near the top. An alternative top rope line starts

(5+) in the corner to the right of the original

route and moves onto the arête. Led Peter Chapman

2002 (alternative start Steve Bone 2008).

4. Missing Link *** 6-

A long traverse starting up Zulu, moving left

over the slab and round the arête. Follow

Belly Jam Direct and continue traversing

leftwards to reach the upper part of Mr. Mean.

Finish up the crack. Led Steve Bone 2013.

5. Belly Jam 5+ ***

An excellent route with varied climbing. An

awkward but well protected exit. Led Steve Bone

2007 or Sväng Vänster by Björn Hedberg 2007 Sverigeforaren.

a. Belly Jam Direct 5+ ***

A slightly more sustained variation with a

wonderful hand traverse below the roof. Led

Steve Bone 2007

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1

3

3a

2a

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6. Arrestered 5+ ***

Start on the arête, and swing to the

right side. A great route with a difficult

start. Recommended to use a top rope. Led D.Lindwall 1990

7. Ape it! 6 **

Climb the left side of the arête to the

top of the block (5+). Move slightly to

the right and continue up the cracks on

Belly Jam, then traverse left to the

difficult exit crack. Top rope arête Jim Emery

2005, exit Steve Bone 2008.

8. Mr. Bean 7

A new route painted on the rock. Looks

like an extremely tough way to get to

the top of the block. Top rope? ???? 2007/2008

9. Silverback 4

Straight forward climbing behind and on

the left edge of the huge block. Then a

pleasant hand traverse and mantle. Top rope

Steve Bone 2008.

10. Mr. Mean 7 ***

Climb a wide chimney before traversing

airily under a roof. Jam up the twin

cracks to the top. There are two pegs,

one is sound but the other is very rusty.

Care is needed to avoid jamming the

rope in the crack at the lip of the roof. Led

D.Lindwall, J. Lundgren 1991

5

6

5a

7 9

10

4

7

4



11. Bacon Bomb 6 ***

Work leftwards towards the edge of the chimney

crack. Before reaching it move onto the face and

use edges to gain the arête exit. Top Rope Steve Bone 2012.

12. Fet Och Värdo 4+ **

The chimney. Led J. Lundgren, M. Jönsson 1990

13. Stenen På Benen 6+ ***

Layback to a shelf and make difficult moves to

come past a niche. The inside of the layback crack

is often wet due to seepage. Led D. Lindwall, M. Andersson

1991

14. Kongo 6+ **

A groove leads up to a shelf, move to the right to

the same finish as Stenen På Benen. Led Mattias Lundqvist 1997

15. Slutet 6+ ***

Start as for Kongo, then swing left

to gain a crack that leads to a ledge.

Continue via the obvious jamming

crack (crux). A well protected

struggle. Led D.Lindwall, J.Lundgren 1990

16. Jam Session 6+ ***

A superb well protected route. Jam

your way up past the bulge (crux),

move right along a ledge & exit via

a thin crack. Led D. Lindwall 1991

17. Agrikulturen 4 *

A well protected route. Climb up a

thin crack to a grassy shelf, and

continue up the corner. Led D. Lindwall

1991

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18. The Low Road 4-

A right trending hand traverse leads to the grassy shelf. Led Steve Bone 2003.

There is an

ascent/descent path just

to the left of The Low

Road.

INTROVÄGGEN

19. Introvägg 3

Details from Halmstad Klättreklub's

guidebook are given about this. What I

suspect is the line of the route was

cleaned off again in 2005. No information

available on first ascent

20. Birch Tree Corner 4+

Climb easily up to the awkward final

crack above the birch tree stump. Led Steve

Bone 2005

21. Heave Through 5+

Climb the thin crack on the right of the

corner. Move easily across the slabs and

exit strenuously through the roof. Led Steve

Bone 2013

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18 17

20

22

23

24a

19

21



22. Cruise 4-

The same start as the last route, but continue directly up the slab. Join the final section of Hex eater

to exit. Top rope Steve Bone 2009.

23. Hex eater 3+

Climb up the corner to an easy slab, with a wide crack on the right. Take big protection for the

middle of the route. Led Steve Bone 2005

BLACK LABELVÄGGEN

24. Backbiter 6-

Difficult moves lead to a groove

beneath a perched block. Move

right and onto the face of a slab.

24a- An easier start, slightly to the

left of Hex eater, avoiding the

technical start (5-) has been

climbed on a top rope. Led Simon

Svendsen 2008

25. El Kamino 4+ **

Chimney and face climbing. Led J.

Lundgren, D. Lindwall 1993

26. Sprickan 4+

Face climbing just to the left of El

Kamino, heading slightly to the

right of the tree near the top of the

crag. Tope rope Sten Johansson 1997

27. Jenny B 5+

A tricky start leads to enjoyable

face climbing. Top rope Olof Wojtkowiak

1997

28. Dirty Harry 5- Face climbing in the middle of the slab. Top rope Björn Hedberg 1997

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27 28

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29. Magic Friction Loafers 5+ *

Climb leftwards from the left corner of the slab into a shallow corner. A strenuous move leads to

easier ground. Top rope Steve Bone 2001

30. Clodhoppers 5- **

Climb up a short slab to a dead tree (2 alternatives). Climb the chimney and then move from the top

of the block leftwards to reach a crack that leads to the top. A much easier exit can be made moving

right from the blocks at the top of the chimney. Led Steve Bone 2006

31. Trouble follows me 6-

Move right round the arête at half height on

the next route. Top rope Steve Bone 2013

32. Svart Hål 4 *

Face and crack climbing. Led D. Lindwall 1993

33. Bad To The Bone 5 ***

Follow the left slanting crack, which starts

after the first couple of moves of Svart Hål

to a shelf. Then head to a tree at the top of

the crag. Led Steve Bone 2007

34. Svarta Konster 6-

Pass the roof on its right side and continue

up the face. Led D. Lindwall 1993

35. Black Label 7-

Start slightly to the right of an oak tree and

tackle the middle of the roof. Top rope D. Lindwall 1993

36. Lugna Gatan 6-

Pass the roof on its left side. Led D. Lindwall 1993

37. Je Suis Un Gode 7

Face climb towards an arête. Looks easier than it is according to the old guidebook! Top rope D. Lindwall

1993

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30

32

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RED LABELVÄGGEN

38. Röde Orm 6

Face climbing behind the free standing block. Led D. Lindwall, N. Lindqvist 1993

39. Red Label 7

Follow the thin crack and small holds on the

slightly overhanging wall 2m to the left of the

free standing block. Led D. Lindwall 1993

40. The Reckoning 6-

Gain the hanging groove and climb it until

forced to traverse to the right. Pull up to gain

good holds in the break. Move back left to

enter the cracks that lead to the small roof.

Pass the roof on the left. Top Rope Steve Bone 2010

41. Ninth Life 5 *

Start in an undercut groove. Ascend the groove,

move left, then steep moves trending right lead to

the base of an easy slab. Climb the slab and move

right, then left to exit. 40a is slightly harder. An

alternative exit 39a (4+) traverses to the left side of

the slab under the overhang after reaching the tree. Led Steve Bone 2013

42. Beer Goggles 6-

Ascend the corner by the side of the previous route.

Delicate moves lead to the awkward and strenuous

crack in the roof. Climb the slab and finish left of

the overhang. Top Rope Steve Bone 2009.

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34

35

31

34

38

42

41

40

41b

37

36

41a



WRINKLED SLAB AREA

43. Wrinkled Slab 6- *

An awkward start on the far right of the slab, leads up to a suspect hanging flake, which is passed

on the left and the route finishes with a layback. Led Simon Svendsen 2006

44. Pete's Route 6-

Follow a shallow vertical crack slightly to the left of the hole at 4m. Top rope Pete Chapman 2005

45. Søren's route 6-

Follow the thin crack between Pete's Route and Ready For A Runner. Top rope Søren Otzon 2005

46. Ready For A Runner 4 *

A strenuous start on the far left side of the slab leads to easier moves. Small cams are useful. Led Steve

Bone 2003

43 45 44



47. Secret Squirrel 5 *

Start just to the left of the undercut start of

Ready For a Runner. Powerful moves lead to

an easy groove. Led Steve Bone 2006

48. Gear Galore 4+ **

Climb the corner, step left and continue

easily to the top of the crag. Led Steve Bone 2004

49. Tiptoe 5

Climb directly up the middle of the slab,

through the overlap and to the top via a

shallow groove. Top rope Steve Bone 2008

50. Tipple 4

The left side of the Gear Galore slab. Top rope

Steve Bone 2004

51. Tricky Little Number 6 **

Start directly under the crack in the next bay to the left of

Gear Galore. Technical face climbing gives way to

strenuous crack climbing up to a grassy shelf. Scramble

easily up veering right to the top. Top rope Steve Bone 2008

52. The Brawl of Montreal 6+ *

In the next bay to the left is a steep technical and strenuous

route. The crack is often wet due to seepage. Head up the

crack that veers to the right. When it runs out move left to

the crack that splits the bulge, and pull through to an easier

finish. Top rope Steve Bone 2012

BABYLON CORNER AREA

53. Kiwi 4-

A strenuous start pulling over the overhang leads to easier

moves up the slab, finish on the right of the upper slab. Led

Will 2007

46

47

48

49 50



54. Claus' route 4+ **

Starts 1 m to the left of Kiwi. Pleasant

moves lead up the slab and directly over the

bulge. Finish directly. Led Claus Rosenlund 2008

55. Sting in the tail 5

Slightly left of Claus' route, move left of the

bulge. The steep upper wall is climbed via a

crack and good holds. Led Steve Bone 2013

56. Babylon Corner 6-

Climb the corner up to a grassy shelf. There

is a choice of exits, which have the same

grade. The right exit requires power, and the

left relies on finesse. Top rope Steve Bone 2005

.

PINCH BUTTRESS AREA

57. Easter Ice 5+

Tough exit onto a steep dirt slope! Watch out for

loose rock. Led Steve Bone 2005

58. Oxygen Debt 6-

Start just to the left of Easter Ice and move left and

up on strenuous pinches. Top rope Steve Bone 2004.

59. Pinch Buttress 6- **

Start from the top of a large block, reach and pull

left to come on the face. Technical moves on small

holds lead delicately to the top. Top rope Steve Bone 2009

60. Stymie 6 *

Work up the next slab. Top rope Steve Bone 2012

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53

54

57

59

58



61. Twister 4+

Climb directly up to the base of the

chimney and tree. Back and foot to

easier moves. Led Steve Bone 2013

62. Ready to rumble 6

A tough face route starts 2m left of

Twister. Top rope Steve Bone 2011.

63. Widowmaker 5+ ***

An excellent well protected lead. Led Steve

Bone 2004. Called 2A:Chansen grade 5 by Addie Nilsson

2007 on Sverigeforaren

64. Blå Mejs 6- **

A good technical face route. Led Björn

Hedberg 2007

65. Shorty 4+ *

A few good moves on this all too short

crack route. Led Steve Bone 2006. Called Genväggen

grade 5- by Addie Nilsson 2007 on Sverigeforaren.

66. Shark Fin 5+ **

Down the hill and continuing to the left of the ascent/descent scramble, there is a line to the right of

the shark fin (a prominent triangular rock at ½ height). Take the second groove to the right and

traverse onto a grassy shelf. Note the more direct first groove is very loose. From the shelf two

cracks lead up to an easy crack exit. Led Steve Bone 2013

67. Last Orders 6-

About 30m to the left of Shark Fin follow a crack system veering left under the overhang, until it

can be rounded. Top Rope Steve Bone 2010

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Ascent/Descent

with care.

kajehallar - mountain environment · 38. röde orm 6 face climbing behind the free standing block....

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