internship report on concepts of modern merchandising tools and techniques in sweater (woolen...
TRANSCRIPT
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Letter of Transmittal
Engg. Abul Basher
Sr. Lecturer
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Subject: Internship Report on Concepts of Modern Merchandising Tools and Techniques
in Sweater (Woolen & Wool Ltd) Industry.
Dear Sir,
With great pleasure, here I submit my internship report on“Concepts of modern merchandising
tools and techniques in Sweater (Woolen & Wool Ltd) industry.” that you have approved &
assigned as a compulsory requirement of GMT – 4206 course. I have tried my level best to bring
out the original scenario of Woolen & Wool LTD with full of effectiveness & efficiency.
I have really learned a lot and have gained valuable experience and knowledge while collecting
information for the report. It was certainly a great opportunity for me to work on this real life
project to actualize my theoretical knowledge of this course in the practical life arena and some
more which is out of this course.
I hope that this project paper has been to your expectation, if will be pleasure to clarify your
questions.
Sincerely,
Mohammad Saiful Islam
ID- 122-164-0-35
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology.
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Student’s Declaration
I, Mohammad Saiful Islam a student of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology of 122
Batches, ID: 122-209-0-35 at the Department of KMT, BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology (BUFT), does hereby declare that the internship report on Woolen & Wool Ltd is a
work done under the supervision of Md. Abdul Baser, Sr. Lecturer, Department of KMT,
BUFT. I also declare that this report is an original work and no part of this report has been copied
from elsewhere. Furthermore, this report has not been published or submitted for being awarded
any degree, diploma or recognition earlier.
Mohammad Saiful Islam
ID: 122-164-0-35
Batch: 122, Sections: KMT-2
Program: B. Sc
Department of Knitwear Manufacture & Technology
Cell: 01622-179624
E-mail: [email protected]
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Official Certification
This is to certify that Mohammad Saiful Islam, Program: B. Sc Batch: 122, ID:122-164-0-35
has completed his/her internship report on Woolen & Wool Ltd under my supervision as a part
of partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of B. Sc Hons in the Department of KMT
of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology. This report can be accepted for evaluation.
Egg. Abul Basher
Sr. Lecturer, of KMT
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Uttara, Dhaka-1230
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The successful completion of this report might never been possible in time without the help some
person whose inspiration and suggestion made it happen. First of all, I would like to take the
opportunity to thank Md. Abul Basher, Sr. Lecturer, Department of KMT BGMEA University
of Fashion & Technology, my internship supervisor for providing me guidelines, help in assisting
my report. He was constantly supporting me with his inspiring personally. I will be always thankful
for his extraordinary reinforcement.
I would like to take opportunity to thank Tareak Abdullah, Managing Director, also like to
thanks Hafizul H. Chowdhury, Director of Woolen & Wool LTD for being my on-site
supervisor & providing me time to time information, suggesting as well as procedure to work with
my topic.
I would like to express my gratitude to all the faculty and staff members of BGMEA University.
This report is a culmination of the four years I have spent here and all that I have learnt.
I also thank my colleagues who helped me by providing informative instructions. I was closely
attached with them during my internship tenure. Without them this project would have been very
difficult. I also thank my parents, and some friends who kept on this long process with me, always
offering support.
Finally, I will show my gratitude to all the Management & Non-Management staffs who have
helped me during the internship period and the entire persons who somehow have impact on me
in completing my whole report.
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Executive Summary
This Report is prepared as per requirement of the internship phases of B. Sc program of BGMEA
University. The study is based on the problem statement, “Merchandising Activities of Woolen
& Wool Ltd”.
The main objective of the report is to find out Process which followed by Woolen & Wool Ltd in
their Merchandising activities. This report starts with a general introduction of “Woolen & Wool
Ltd” as well as its mission, Vision and Product detail.
Then this report proceeds onto the brief discussion of my Job description part where I provide the
information regarding responsibilities of the jobs, Different Aspect of Job performance and about
my critical observation and recommendation. My job in Woolen & Wool Ltd was to assist
commercial department in their activities.
Then in the analysis part of the report, I discussed the process of merchandising of Woolen &
Wool Ltd describing the different steps of it. The steps are arranging sample development
according to demand, collect L/C document, place order to supplier, monitor work progress and
shipping the product and collect payment. I also provide the list of valued client of Woolen &
Wool Ltd and other information relating Woolen & Wool Ltd merchandising activities.
I also tried to find out the Present Condition of our Apparel sector. Also does any problem was
occurring in our Apparel Sector after Rana Plaza & Tazrin Fashion tragedy and globally passion
of our Apparel Sector.
In findings part, I have tried to find out the satisfaction of buyer relating to Woolen & Wool Ltd
merchandising activities. Where the major outcomes are in product sample testing 40% like it
instantly, 70% strongly agree that Woolen & Wool Ltd Knitting quality is excellent, 40% agrees
that their packing quality is standard, but 30% has dissatisfaction regarding product delivery time,
30% Fire safety, 80% dissatisfaction of their stores and 70% buyers pay their payment in due time.
Finally, I suggested some scopes of improvement process of Woolen & Wool Ltd and in the
conclusion I give a brief summary of the whole report.
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Table of Content
1. Letter of Transmittal……………………………………………........................................……. 1
2. Student’s Declaration………………………………………………………….............................. 2
3. Official Certification…………………………………………………......................................... 3
4. Acknowledgement…………………………………………………….......................................... 4
5. Executive Summary…………………………………………………………………………………. 5
6. Table of Content……………………………………………………….......................................... 6-12
Chapter 1
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………...……………………… 13-16
1.1 Introduction to the Report………………………………………………........................................ 13
1.2 Objective of the Internship………………………………………………….…………………... …… 14
1.3 Origin of the Report……………………………………………………………………………………... 15
1.4 Methodology………………………………………………………………………………………………. 15
1.4.1 Primary Data………………………………………………………………................................ 15
1.4.2 Secondary Data……………………………………………………………............................... 15
1.5 Limitations of the Internship Report………………………………………………………….…… 16
1.6 Scope of the Report…………………………………………………………………………………….. 16
Chapter 2
2.1 Overview of the Company……………………………………………………….............................. 17-28
2.2 Our Vision & Objectives……………………………………………………………………………… 17
2.3 Operation Organogram of Woolen & Wool…………………………………………………….. 18
2.4 Woolen & Wool at a Glance………………………………………………………………………… 19
2.5 Factory Profile……………………………………………………………………………………………. 20,21
2.5.1 Machinery and Production Details…………………………………………………………. 20
Flat Knitting Machine………………………………………………………………………… 20
Dial Linking Machine…………………………………………………………………………... 20
Yarn Winding Machine……………………………………………………............................ 20
Sewing Machine…………………………………………………………………………………... 21
Others Machine………………………………………………………………………………….. 21
2.6 Woolen & Wool Product…………………………………………………………............................ 21, 22
2.7 General Information About the Industry…………………………………………..................... 23, 24
2.8 Woolen & Wool Certification……………………………………………………..…………... ….. 24
Title Page Number
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2.9 Woolen & Wool ltd Fabrics Valued Clients…………………………………………………. 25
2.10 Plan layout of a Woolen & Wool……………………………………………………………… 26-28
Chapter 3
3.1 Basic Concept of Apparel Sector…………………………………………………...…………… 29
3.2 Woven Factory…………………………………………………………………….............................. 29
3.3 Major Construction of Weaving……………………………………………………...…………... 29
3.4 Weaving………………………………………………………………………………………………........ 30
3.5 Knitting…………………………………………………………………………………………………. …. 30
3.6 Knitwear…………………………………………………………………………................................... 30
3.7 Fabric………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 31
3.8 Classification of Knitted Structure………………………………………………....................... 31
3.9 Knitting Briefly……………………………………………………………………………………......... 32
3.10 Warp Knitting…………………………………………………………………………………………. 32
3.11 Weft knitting……………………………………………………………………................................. 33
3.12 Dia………………………………………………………………………………...…………………......... 33
3.13 Flatbed Knitting………………………………………………………………….............................. 33
3.14 Integrated Garments…………………………………………………………………………………. 33
3.15 What is Fully Fashioned…………………………………………………………………………… 33,34
Advantage of Fully Fashioned…………………………………………………………………... 34
Disadvantage of Fully Fashioned………………………………………………………………. 34
3.16 Textiles…………………………………………………………………………………………………… 34
3.17 Clothing…………………………………………………………………………................................. 34
3.18 Fiber…………………………………………………………………………………………………........ 34
3.19 Classification of Fiber………………………………………………………………………………. 34
3.20 Common Yarn Used in the Fully Fashioned Knitwear…………………………........... 35
Basic Types…………………………………………………………………………………………….. 35
Fancy Types………………………………………………………………………………………........ 35
3.21 Major Properties of Fiber………………………………………………………………………….. 35
3.22 Fibers identification…………………………………………………………………………………. 36
3.23 Classification of Fiber……………………………………………………………………………….. 36
3.24 Textile Yarn……………………………………………………………………………………….......... 36
3.25 Classification of Textile Yarn…………………………………………………………………….. 37, 38
3.26 Properties of Yarn…………………………………………………………………………………….. 39-
3.26.1 Wool……………………………………………………………………………………………… 39
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3.26.2 Acrylic…………………………………………………………………………………………… 39
3.26.3 Cotton…………………………………………………………………………………………… 39
3.26.4 Cashmere………………………………………………………………………………………. 40
3.26.5 Chenille…………………………………………………………………………………………. 40
3.26.5.1 Sourcing of Chenille Yarn…………………………………………………… 40
3.26.5.2 Types of Chenille………………………………………………………………… 40
3.26.5.3 Major Properties of Chenille Yarn…………………………………………. 40
3.26.3 Angora Robit……………………………………………………………………….. 41
3.27 Identification of Different Types of knitted Structure…………………………......... 41-48
3.27.1 Single Jersey Fabric………………………………………………….. ……………… 42-44
Properties of Single Jersey……………………………………………………………….. 42
Stitch Diagram of Single Jersey……………………………………………………...... 42
Loop Diagram of Single Jersey……………………………………………………....... 43
Edge Curling…………………………………………………………………………………. 43
Dimensional Stability……………………………………………………………………… 43
Unraveled……………………………………………………………………………………… 43
Elasticity……………………………………………………………………………………….. 44
Laddering……………………………………………………………………………………… 44
Density………………………………………………………………………………………….. 44
Notation Diagram…………………………………………………………………………… 44
3.27.2 Rib Knitted Structure……………………………………………………………….. 44-46
Properties of Rib ……………………………………………………………………………… 45
Stitch Diagram of Rib……………………………………………………………………….. 45
Loop Diagram of Single Rib……………………………………………………………… 45
Edge Curling…………………………………………………………………………………… 45
Dimensional Stability……………………………………………………………………….. 45
Unraveled………………………………………………………………………………………… 45
Elasticity………………………………………………………………………………………….. 45
Laddering……………………………………………………………………………………….. 46
Density……………………………………………………………………………………………. 46
Notation Diagram…………………………………………………………………………….. 46
3.27.2 Double Jersey Structure…………………………………………………………… 46-48
Properties of Rib ……………………………………………………………………………… 47
Stitch Diagram of Rib………………………………………………………………………. 47
Loop Diagram of Single Rib…………………………………………………………....... 47
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Edge Curling……………………………………………………………………………………. 47
Dimensional Stability………………………………………………………………………... 47
Unraveled……………………………………………………………………………………….. 47
Elasticity…………………………………………………………………………………….. ….. 47
Laddering………………………………………………………………………………………… 47
Density……………………………………………………………………………………………. 47
Notation Diagram……………………………………………………………………………… 48
3.28 Knit Fabric Notation…………………………………………………………………………………… 48
3.28.1 Important of Knit Fabric Notation………………………………………………………. 48
3.29 Identification of Fancy knitted Structure………………………………………………………. 49-55
3.29.1 Shaker/ Half Cardigan Stitch………………………………………………………........ 49
3.29.2 Full Cardigan Stitch…………………………………………………………………… …... 49
3.29.3 Milano Stitch……………………………………………………………............................. 50
3.29.4 Drop Knit………………………………………………………………………………………. 50
3.29.5 Pointal…………………………………………………………………………………………… 51
3.29.6 Tuck/Pineapple Stitch……………………………………………………………………. 51, 52
3.27.7 Zig – Zag Stitch……………………………………………………………………………. 52
3.29.8 Cable Design………………………………………………………………………………… 53, 54
Normal Cable………………………………………………………………………………. 53
2 Line Cables (Fancy Cable) …………………………………………………………… 53
Butterfly Cables……………………………………………………………………………… 54
3.29.9 Diamond Design……………………………………………………………………………. 54, 55
Normal Diamond……………………………………………………………………………. 54
Fancy Diamond……………………………………………………………….……………… 55
3.30 Sweater Operation Breakdown………………………………………………………………….. 56-58
Chapter 4
4.1 Process of Fully Fashioned Knitwear Manufacturing………………………….. 59-90
4.1.1 Warehouse Arrangement and Tarn Inspection……………………………………. 61,62
4.1.1.1 Wastage consider in case of types of gauge and material quality…….. 61
4.1.1.2 How the yarn is being inspected?............................................................... 62
4.1.1.3 Identify Types of Defects………………………………………………………….. 62
4.1.2 Stores…………………………………………………………………………………………......... 63-66
4.1.2.1 Types of Stores……………………………………………………………………….. 63
4.1.2.2 List the types of goods and how the goods are arranged........................ 64
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4.1.2.3 Invoice…………………………………………………………………………………... 65
4.1.3 Winding Section……………………………………………………………………………….. 66, 67
4.1.4 Knitting Yarn Distribution Section……………………………………………………. 68, 69
4.1.4.1 Yarn Issuing System………………………………………………………………… 68
4.1.4 Sample Room…………………………………………………………………………………… 70-72
4.1.4.1 Sample Making Procedure……………………………………………………….. 70
4.1.4.2 Sample Approval Procedure…………………………………………………….. 71
4.1.4.3 Sample Submission Procedure………………………………………………… 71
4.1.4.4 Different Kind of Sample………………………………………………………. 72
4.1.5 knitting Room…………………………………………………………………………………… 73-80
4.1.5.1 Difference Between Hand Driven and Power Driven Machine………. 73
4.1.5.2 Modern Jacquard Machine in Sweater Industry…………………………. 74-77
Advantage and Disadvantage of Jacquard Machine……………………….. 75
Procedure of Jacquard Machine Production…………………………………. 75
Modern Jacquard Machine Product……………………………………………… 76
Basic Information of Woolen & Wool Jacquard Machine……………….. 76
Jacquard Machine Used in Woolen & Wool Ltd……………………………. 77
Machine Details………………………………………………………………………... 77
4.1.5.3 List the Functions of the Knitting Room Equipment’s Installed …… 78, 79
4.1.5.4 Method of Improving the Productions……………………………………... 79
4.1.5.5 Organizations Chart of the Knitting Room……………………………….. 79
4.1.5.6 Productions Planning………………………………………………………………. 80
4.1.5.7 Objectives of the Productions Planning…………………………………….. 80
4.1.6 Knitting Inspection……………………………………………………………………………. 81,82
4.1.6.1 Some Common Knitting Defects……………………………………………….. 81
4.1.6.2 Advice for Solution…………………………………………………………………… 82
4.1.7 Linking Room……………………………………………………………………………………. 82
4.1.7.1 Types of Linking Machine…………………………………………………………. 82
4.1.8 Linking Inspections…………………………………………………………………………... 83
4.1.9 Linking Continue/ Trimming Section………………………………………………… 84
4.1.9.1 Function of Trimming Section……………………………………………………. 84
4.1.10 Light Check……………………………………………………………………………………. 85
4.1.10.1 List of Instrument used in Light Check…………………………………….. 85
4.1.11 Mending and Washing……………………………………………………………………. 86
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4.1.12 Ironing and Finishing………………………………………………………………………. 87, 88
4.1.11.1 Finishing Equipment’s Installed in factory……………………............. 87
4.1.11.2 Pressing Equipment Available in the Factory…………………………. 88
4.1.11.3 Method of Marking on the Carton………………………………………… 88
4.2 Quality Control Department…………………………………………………………………….. 89, 90
4.2.1 Quality Control System of Woolen & Wool…………………………………………... 89
4.1.2 Factory Quality Control Procedure……………………………………………………….. 90
Chapter 5
5.1 Merchandising Department……………………………………………………………………….. 91-121
5.1.1 Merchandising…………………………………………………………………………………… 91,92
5.1.2 Merchandiser…………………………………………………………………………………….. 92
5.1.3 Objective of Merchandiser…………………………………………………………………. 92
5.1.4 Responsibility of Smart Merchandiser…………………………………………………. 92,93
5.1.5 Quality of a Good Merchandiser……………………………………………………........ 93
5.1.6 Quick Response Merchandising Procedure…………………………………………… 94-
5.1.6.1 Forecasting Brief…………………………………………………………………… 95, 96
5.1.6.2 Sourcing………………………………………………………………………………… 96, 97
5.1.6.3 Checking for Selecting a Vendor at a Glance……………………………… 97
5.1.6.4 Negotiation…………………………………………………………………………….. 97, 98
5.1.7 Activities of Merchandiser………………………………………………………………… 99, 100
5.1.7.1 Daily Activities of a Merchandiser…………………………………………… 99
5.1.7.2 Weekly Activities of Merchandiser………………………………………….. 99
5.1.7.3 Monthly Activities of a Merchandiser………………………………………. 100
5.1.7.4 Yearly Activities of a Merchandiser…………………………………………. 100
5.1.8 Business Development Procedure of Woolen & Wool………………………….. 101
5.1.8.1 First Email to Buyer for Business Development……………………….. 102,103
Feed Back from Buyer in Response to First Email………………………. 104
5.1.9 Some Important Issue for a merchandiser as well as factory before starting work
With a New Buyer…………………………………………………………………………….. 105
5.1.10 The Confirming Order after Merchandiser Do Some Work………………….. 106
5.1.11 Knitwear Style and Design Analysis………………………………………………… 107-109
5.1.12 Calculate the yarn consumption and coasting/pricing techniques for the fully
Fashioned Knitwear……………………………………………………………………….. 110-113
5.1.13 merchandising Procedure to Execute and Order………………………………….. 113
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5.1.14 Merchandiser Should Know Different Incoterms in International Business
Incoterms of International Business……………………………………………………. 114, 115
5.1.15 Garments Accessories…………………………………………….................................. 115-121
Chapter 6
Commercial Department………………………………………………………… 122-127
6.1 Lc…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 122-126
6.1.1 Origin of the Term (L/C) Meaning……………………………………………………….. 122
6.1.2 Major Type of Letter of Credit……………………………………………... …………….. 122
6.1.3 Special Clauses……………………………………………………………………………….…. 122
6.1.4 Benefit of L/C……………………………………………………………………………….. …. 124
6.1.5 Documents Required for Opening L/C………………………………………………….. 124
6.1.6 Check List of L/C………………………………………………………………………………. 124
6.1.7 L/C Operation Chart………………………………………………………………………… 125,126
6.18 Merchandise Presentation…………………………………………………………………….. 127
6.1.9 Types of Assortment…………………………………………………………………………… 127
Chapter 7
7.1 Recommendation…………………………………………………………………………………... …. 128
7.2 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………………..…………. 129
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Chapter 1
Introduction
1.1 Introduction to the Report
Ready-made garments are fast growing export sector in Bangladesh. The overall impact of ready-made garments export is certainly one of the most substantial social and economic developments
in present Bangladesh. In order to pretend rapid growth of the country, particularly through
industrialization, the government has implemented an open entry policy to attract overseas
investment in Bangladesh. As results there are about 2500 export focused on readymade garments
exists in Bangladesh.
For some recent consecutive accident in our garments sector is negatively impact on our apparel
sector. For that reason, compliance issued came in front. In recent days the word compliance in
ready – made garments sector have the experience that the customers are giving so many
conditions to comply by the manufacturer, In the past whatever buyers came to the factory to place
order they used to see the quality of the garments that are being procedure in the factory. But now
the ultimate customers in the western world have become more cautious and want to know the
origin of the apparels. And in the garments sector one of the most important task is merchandising.
Merchandising is one of the important works in garments sector. In every garment merchandiser
job is every essential. In this job the employer need to have hard working mind, substantial power,
prompt intelligence, great observation, tolerance etc. Without merchandiser no garments can run
efficiently.
For every garment buyer is the heart of their business. For this reason, buyer satisfaction is most
vital for a garment. Buyer means the persons or organizations who buy the products from any
organization. In garments sector of Bangladesh buyer means especially foreign buyer who buy
products from our garments. And this satisfaction ensuring duty performs by the merchandiser. The first task of the merchandiser is to bring foreign buyer to buy the product through effective
communication. At the time of giving order if buyer satisfied with the help of merchandiser then
they will come again. Buyers another condition is delivery the products in right time. Merchandiser
take care this challenge seriously. Because if buyers do not get products in right time then they
will not give the order again to that garments. So merchandisers are handling and caring all kinds
of work from receiving order to delivering products to buyers and always wants to please them
because garments or garments sector’s development depends on buyer’s satisfaction.
I have selected ready-made garments industry to do my internship because I wanted to obtain
knowledge about the merchandising activities. Recently I work in Woolen & Wool Ltd. “Woolen
& Wool” is one of the fastest growing 100% export oriented sweater factory in Bangladesh. They
produce the best quality products and keep a long-term business relation with their customers.
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1.2 OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP
After completion of Post-Graduation students have to do their Internship under a
Group of Company which has a vast impact on practical life. It helps the students
about the following thing
Internship helps me to match their Theoretical Learning with their Practical Learning.
Internship helps me in adjusting from University to full-time employment.
Internship helps me develop skills and techniques directly applicable to their career.
Internship helps me increase a student's sense of responsibility.
Internship helps me to acquire good work habits.
Internship helps me increase student earning potential upon post-graduation.
Internship helps me adjusting from University to full-time employment.
Internship motivate me to continue their education.
To fulfill academic requirement.
It increases positive attitude in his / her practical life
Internship increase a student's sense of responsibility.
Internship helps the students to learn Top to Bottom of the organization
To realize present condition of our RMG industry
To know about how to management system
How to make a deal with buyer?
How can a merchandiser merchandise in this sector?
How to make benefit through this garments?
To learn how to maintain or control the whole management system of the industry
To learn how to maintain or control the whole management system of the industry
To analyze the recent labor unrest in the garment industry of Bangladesh.
Opportunity of behavioral theory practice in our garments sector.
Regularly behavioral theory practice in garments industry.
To do a merchandising practice in the factory. Identify the additional services that the
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1.3 Origin of the Report
This report is originated as a partial fulfillment of the requirement of the Knitwear
Merchandising program of the BGMEA university of Fashion & Technology Dhaka, Bangladesh.
This survey research has been conducted to understand the overall management, Knitting,
inspection, QC, Store management, Dyeing, Printing, Apparels & Merchandising system of
WOOLEN & WOOL LTD. This project paper has been assigned by the director of WOOLEN
& WOOL LTD.
1.4 Methodology
Methodology defines how we go through all the processes of research and how I have proceeded
on. Here include the steps of conducting the report and the explanation of the sources of data. I
collect the data in two ways: - 1. Primary Data 2. Secondary Data.
1.4.1 Primary data:
Primary data were collected through practical working and conversation with
various department like Merchandising, commercial, production, HR division,
finishing etc.
Informal conversation with the Auditors and consultative firm.
Most of the information was acquired by discussing with the officers working in
the fact especially Md. Shahidul Islam Milon Asst. Manager (Admin). Md.
Nazim Uddin Bhuiyan, Director.
Interview, observation and work experience with different workers and
suggestions of many executives of the Factory
1.4.2 Secondary data:
Reports and research papers related to Ready-made garments industry.
Previous Audit Report of the company
Various books, articles, and compliance related codes conducts etc.
Instruction circular of Head Office, Audit findings of the consultative firms,
newspapers and magazines regarding compliance issues, seminar papers etc.
Searching from the internet
Class
Lecture
Library
Annual report
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1.5 Limitations of the Internship Program.
Although the opportunity of Internship program is a great one for me to acquire practical
knowledge on Merchandising and other related jobs and getting opportunity of carrying out this
program in an organization like Woolen & Wool LTD. There were also some limitations in this
regard. Out of various limitations the followings are worth mentioning:
The allocated time (8 weeks) was not sufficient enough to get involved with the vast and
complex process under different functional areas of garments industries.
Most of the time of our internship period we had to work in Knitting, and Printing & CAL
unit that may not depict the total scenario of the garment operation.
Another Limitation was that we were not given any guide from the organization who would
monitor my activities and provide support
The persons involved in each section remain always busy with work so getting their support
was quite difficult there.
Another problem is the unavailability of various data regarding the organizations total
Turnover, Code of conduct, Merchandising Dept. Sample room, Commercial Dept. &
Admin, which might help us in getting a clear picture of performance in comparison with
total industry.
Unavailability of various secondary data and other functional areas of garments industries,
which might help us in preparing a conducive internship report.
1.6 Scope of the Report
Scope means how many uses for completing this report space. The scopes are given bellow-
Factory
Buying House
Discussion
Internet
Some of my senior brothers was help me.
I am collect information various books and relevant paper what related with
apparel industry.
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Chapter 2
2.1 Overview of The Company
Woolen & Wool” is one of the fastest growing 100% export oriented sweater factory in
Bangladesh. We produce the best quality products and keep a long-term business relation with our
customers. “Woolen & Wool” was incorporated in the year of 2003 with an overview of
establishing a state of art Ready –made sweater factory where buyers will feel real comfort to use
the facility to produce their products. We have attained an unprecedented position in the apparel
market due to the spirited efforts of our Founder, Managing Director, Mr. Tareak Abdullah. We
are engaged in the manufacturing & supplying of all sort of Readymade Sweaters like Designer
Sweater, knitted Sweater, Pullover, Cardigan, Poncho, Jumper, Jersey, Muffler, Cap and Hand
Gloves for Women, Girls, Men, Boys and Children. The company has well experienced and highly
professional staffs and workforces, who are the main asset of “Woolen & Wool”. We have a
complete and systematic merchandising department with well experienced merchandisers to cater
the needs of the customer. Moreover, we have a very strong sourcing capability on both imported
and local accessories. In addition, we have a separate sampling and development department under
the guidance of the merchandisers where they prepare and develop samples for our customers. We
believe in welfare and the safety of our employees, and that’s why we maintain a highest safety
standard for our employees which assured the safety and security for them during the working
hours. Also we follow the ethical code known as BSCI code of conduct where child labor is
absolutely prohibited in our premises.
2.2 Our Vision & Objective
To establish ourselves as a one stop source for the Global Sweater Market.
To satisfy and meet customers’ expectation by developing and providing products and
services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety, and Environmental
impact. To promote the development and best use of human talent and equal opportunity
employment. To attain highest level of competence through continuous development of the professional
management system and to ensure complete transparency in all aspects of business.
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2.3 Operation Organogram of Woolen & Wool LTD
Managing Director
Director Director Director Director
Admin Dept. Commercial Dept. Production Dept. Marketing Dept.
1. Accounting
2. Compliance
3. HR
4. Electric &
Maintenance
5. Sore
6. Transport
7. Security
1. Bank
2. Import &
Export docs
3. Customs
4. C&F
1. Winding
2. Knitting
3. Linking
4. Washing
5. Iron
6. PQC
7. Packing
1. Marketing
2.Merchandising
3. Sampling
4. Quality
5. Planning &
Scheduling
DGM – Accountant - Director
Accounts
Store - Yarn
Production
Production
Admin – Time Section Commercial -
Merchandisin
g
Poly - Carton
Page | 19
2.4 Woolen & Wool at a Glance
The Woolen & Wool Limited has been producing Sweater products since 2003. We have the
facility of producing all types of knitted Sweater, Pullover, Cardigan, Poncho, Jumper, Jersey,
Muffler, Cap and Hand Gloves for Women, Girls, Men, Boys and Children. We have very efficient
design staffs for the sample development and work forces for on time production.
Fig: Woolen & Wool Side View
In the tenure of our business, as a reliable manufacturer of Sweater products, we have established
an excellent quality & quantity, price, sincerity, and commitment. We have been importing yarn
from abroad mainly from Hong Kong, China, India, Korea and at home from Export Processing
Zone’s (EPZ’s) to maintain a fashion forward offering products. We have already exported very
high fashioned products for European Union (EU) countries, especially French, German, Finish,
Swedish, Danish, Spanish, Swiss buyers and also to the Canadian, USA, and Latin American
buyers.
Woolen & Wool Limited would like to share the BSCI Audit Summary Report of 2013. We
are glad to inform you that WWL is at the very end of fulfilling the Business Social Compliance
Initiative (BSCI)'s issues in our factory and overall manufacturing processes. We are also thankful
to our clients, people, collaborators, suppliers and all well-wishers for being with us all the time
and keeping us in their prayers.
Page | 20
2.5 Factory Profile
2.5.1 Machinery and Production Details
Flat Knitting Machine: Flying Tiger Brand
Dial Linking Machine
Yarn Winding Machine
Page | 21
Sewing Machine
Others
2.6 Woolen & Wool Product
Product Images: Men
Page | 22
Product Images: Woman
Product Images: Kids
Page | 23
2.7 General Information About the Industry
Name of the Factory
Motto For Total Quality
Type of Business Manufacturer and Exporter
Legal Status Private Limited Company
Year of Incorporation 2003
State Private Limited Company
Contact Person Managing Director Tareak Abdullah
Email: [email protected]
Corporate office Address: Khailkur, Bat Tala Road, Board Bazar,
Gazipur 1704, Bangladesh
Phone: 88-02- 9291761, 88-02- 9293043
Fax: 88-02- 9292098
E-mail: [email protected]
Factory Address Address: Khailkur, Bat Tala Road, Board Bazar,
Gazipur 1704, Bangladesh
Phone: 88-02- 9291761, 88-02- 9293043
Fax: 88-02- 9292098
E-mail: [email protected]
Bank Southeast Bank Ltd. (Uttara Branch)
House # 1, Road # 11, Sector # 1, Uttara, Dhaka 1230,
Bangladesh
Phone: 88-02-8916538,
Fax: 88-02-8918689
Telex: 642463 SBL UB BJ SWIFT: SEBDBDDHAUTT
E-mail: [email protected]
Production Capacity 6000psc/Day
Page | 24
Target Market: Buyer from European Union (EU), Europe, Canada, USA, Latin America,
Australia, New Zealand, Japan.
Membership: Member, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
(BGMEA), Membership # 3743
2.8 Woolen & Wool Certification
Woolen & Wool Ltd get BSCI Certification in 2013. They visit the all-around the factory and give
the result. They said the factory have to
improvement lot of think.
Fig: BSCI Certificate of Woolen & Wool
Factory Space 61000 square feet
Employee Turnover
Total Man Power ± 1,200 Persons
Male: 60%
Female: 40%
Management
Personnel
100 Persons
Page | 25
2.9 Woolen & Wool ltd Fabrics Valued Clients
SL/No Buyer Logo Country
1 Poolman
Germany
2 Honeys
South Korea
3 Auchan Textile
France
4 Ashtown Trade
S.A.
Uruguay
5 Walmart
U.S.A
6 Teddy SPA
Italy
7 C & A
Canada
8 Cecil
Germany
9 Sfera Joven S. A.
Spain
10 Spanner
Canada
Page | 26
2.10 Plan Layout of a Woolen & Wool
Ground Floor
Page | 27
First Floor
Page | 28
Second Floor
Page | 29
Chapter 3
3.1 Basic Concept of Apparel Sector Apparel sector are two types
1. Woven
2. Knitwear
3.2 Woven Fabric
Woven fabric made by the interlacement (one up and down) of two set of yarn (one set is called
warp and other set is weft at right angle.
3.3 Major Construction of Weaving
Plain Weave
Twill
Satin/Sateen
Apparel Sector
Woven Knitwear
Interlacement
End production
Shirt/trouser/dart
Cut and Sew Fully
Fashion
Knitwear Tubular
Heavy
Knitwear Fine
Gage Coarse gage
Knitwear
Light Knitwear
End Production
Sweater, cardigan,
Pullover.
End production
T- shirt/ Polo
Shirt/Shint.
Page | 30
3.4 Weaving
Interlacement of two sets of yarn at right angle which form a structure is called weaving
EPI= Ends Per Inch
PPI= Pick Per Inch
Warp/End Weft/pick
3.5 Knitting
It’s a process of fabric manufacture by converting yarn into loop from and then these loop
interlock/inter loop/inter meshed together which form a structure is called knitting
In short: - Inter locking of loops which form a structure is called knitting.
3.6 Knitwear
The garments/Apparel which we get by knitted structure that called knitwear.
Page | 31
3.7 Fabric
An assembly of fabric or yarn which form a structure and which has length, width and thickness.
Through adhesives
Woven Fabric Knit/Knitted Fabric Interlining and other
3.8 Classification of Knitted Structure
Fabric
Assembly
Weaving Knitting Bondin
g
Knitted Structure
Weft Knitted Warp Knitted
Circular Knitting Flatbed Knitting
Warp knitted: Mostly non apparel
item can be produced
Mosquito net
Mash fabric
Power net
Laces
Fish net etc.
Small Dia Large dia m/c single
jersey
Rib gating
Double jersey
interlock
Lacoste/piqu
e
Pleece
T-shirt polo
shirt
Hand driver
Deriver
manually
Limit design
can be
produced
Slow/low
volume of
production
Integrated
garments not
possible
Power Driver
Driver by
power
Unlimited
design can
be
produced
High
volume of
production
Integrated
garment
possible
Page | 32
3.9 Knitting It is a process of fabric manufacture by converting yarn into loop form and then these loops
interlock/intermesh/interlooped together which form a structure is called knitting or knitted
structure.
Or. Interlocking of loops which form a structure is called knitting.
Wales: vertical column of knitted fabric.
Course: horizontal column of knitted fabric.
Loop: bending of yarn is called loop.
WPI = Wales per Inch
CPI = Course per Inch
3.10 Warp Knitting
Is method of forming fabric by knitting in which the loops are made in a vertical way along the
length of the fabric from each yarn and intermeshing of loops takes place in flat form on a length
wise basis.
Loop Yarn
Wales
Course
Fig: Knitted Structure
Page | 33
3.11 Weft Knitting
Is a method of forming fabric by knitting in which the loops are made in a horizontal way from a
single yarn and intermeshing of loops takes place in a circular or flay from on a course wise basis.
3.12 Dia
Maximum distance inside the circle is called dia.
Large Dia Product
Single Jersey
Double Jersey
Pique
Interlock
Small Dia Product
Socks
3.13 Flatbed Knitting
Needle are arranging in flat way that’s we called flatbed knitting/ v- bed knitting.
There are two part of flatbed knitting.
1. Technical Front
2. Technical Back
3.14 Integrated Garments
The garments which is made without any joint/linking it’s called integrated garments
3.15 What is fully Fashion?
Fully fashioning is a method/technique of shaping a knitted structure by increasing or decreasing
the number of Wales or needles.
Sleeve
panel by
increasin
g
Body
panel
Increase (+)
Decrease (-)
Body
panel
Decrease (-)
Page | 34
Advantage:
Cost effective (Less manpower in design and pattern section)
Zero (%) wastage garments (Least amount of wastage)
Quality edge garments (No raw edge because edge are not being cut but sealed)]
Disadvantage:
Low volume production (Because time consuming wastage of time by increasing one
decreasing of needle)
3.16 Textiles: Anything that can be originated/generated from fiber.
3.17 Clothing: Ready to wear
3.18 Fiber: Fibers are natural or chemical structure that can be spun into yarn.
3.19 Classification of Fiber Based on sourcing
Note: Seawater is the only one garment which is used three types of fiber like wool, cotton, and acrylic.
Spinning process/ Giving twisted Yarn
Fiber
Chemical/man
made
Natural
Acrylic
Polyester and
other
Animal Plant
Wool Cotton
Page | 35
3.20 Common yarn used in the fully fashion knitwear
Basic types
100% wool
Blended wool
100% Acrylic
Blended Acrylic
Acrylic Melange
100% Cotton
- Combed
- Carbed
Blended Cotton Decorative
Fancy Types
Chenilhe
Cashmere
Angora
Tape Yarn
Lurex
Feather Yarn
Loop yarn
Pop Corn
Filligree
Smiling Yarn
Nep Yarn
Mohair Yarn
3.21 Major Properties of Fiber
Mechanical Properties this is the response to applied forms and recovery
Abrasion Properties
Flexibility
Absorption Properties This is a measure of the quality of water vapor or liquid water or absorbed
by fabric. Water vapor Fabric
Water Absorption
Thermal Properties the behavior of textile in the presence of heat or when exposed to a fame. Heat Resistance Capacity or
Specific Heat
Page | 36
3.22 Fibers Identification
Test Wool Acrylic Cotton
Burning test/
Flammable test
Non-flammable,
Hair burn smell
Flammable
Petroleum flame
Flammable
Paper burn smell
Microscopic test
(Cell structure of
yarn)
Chemical test
(acid & alkalis)
wet finish
Acid (+)
Alkalis (-)
Acid (+)
Alkalis (+)
Acid (-)
Alkalis (+)
3.23 Classification of fiber Based on length
3.24 Textile Yarn
Twisted form of fiber is called yarn.
ASTM (American Society for Testing and Material): A generic term for a continuous
strand of textile fiber is called yarn.
Fiber
Staple Filament
Short staple Long staple
Wool Cotton
Acrylic & others
(1.27cm - 6.34 cm) (3.8cm - 38cm)
(0-2000meter or more)
Page | 37
3.25 Classification of Textile yarn
Textile yarn
Spun yarn Filament yarn
Simple Complex/
Novelty/
Fancy
Single Plied
Cords Cables
Mono Multi
Flat Twisted
3. Staple:
1. Mono filament:
2. Multi filament:
4. Two ply yarn:
Page | 38
Spun yarn: Spun yarn are made by twisting together of fibers.
Filament yarn: Filament yarns are made by the assembly of continuous filament.
Mono-filament: Consists of only a single continuous.
Multi filament: Made from multiple filaments.
Complex/Novelty/Fancy: This has special effects on its own appearance.
Cords: cords are made by twisted plied yarn.
Cables: Cables are produced by plying cords.
Slub yarns: Contains partially bulky/fluffy region.
Loop yarns: This yarn requires a base yarn (core yarn) around which the fancy or effect yarn is
wrapped.
8. Loop yarn:
5. Multi ply:
7. Cable:
6. Cords:
Page | 39
3.26 Properties of Yarn
3.26.1 Wool
Natural fiber come from the sheared, or shaved, fleece of sheep or lambs.
Properties of Wool
Fluffy/bulky appearance.
Poor strength.
Good resistance to acid
Mainly fiber collects from sheep fleece.
Garments appearance is not shiny.
More expansive production than Acrylic.
Warmth feelings.
Poor resistance to sunlight and insect
End use seawater and suiting.
3.26.2 Acrylic
The word acrylic derives from acylonitrille. Acylonitrille comes from acetylene or ethylene.
Acrylic is also knowing as cheaper substitute of wool.
Properties of Acrylic
Same as wool but shiny/brighter and very good strength because it comes from filament.
Acrylic seawater is light weight.
Feeling is warm.
Good resistance to insect and sunlight.
End use: Pullover, seawater, heavy knitwear.
3.26.3 Cotton
Comes from the bolls or seed pods of cotton plants.
Properties of Cotton
Smooth surface.
Cool feelings (suitable for hot season).
More expansive.
Moisture absorbency high.
Dry and wet Wash.
Page | 40
Cotton used in any kind of garments.
Strength medium-high (depends on twisting percentage).
3.26.4 Cashmere Yarn
Properties of Cashmere Yarn
Cashmere goat fleece.
Silky shiny.
During spinning nylon cord is used.
End use is heavy knitwear/garments.
Dry cleaning only for blended cashmere yarn.
3.26.5 Chenille Yarn
Chenilly yarn also known as pile yarn.
3.26.5.1 Sourcing of Chenille yarn
1. Cotton Chenille which is hard and less velvety.
2. Acrylic Chenille which is soft and more velvety.
3.26.5.2 Types of Chenille.
- Lurex Chenille.
- Rayon Chenille.
- Rainbow Chenille.
- Feather Chenille.
- Space dyed Chenille.
3.26.5.3 Major Properties of Chenille yarn
It can’t twist.
Velvety appearance.
End use:
1. Suitable for ladies and body warm.
2. Used in seawater and outwear.
Page | 41
3.26.6 Angora Robit
White and silky
Delicate to look at.
100% angora not washable.
For heavy knitwear.
Note: In Bangladesh most commonly used Angora Tweed.
3.27 Identification of different types of knitted structure/design/stitch
Two major types of knitted structure
1. Basic Types.
2. Fancy Types
Basic Types
Single Jersey.
Rib Gating.
Double Jersey/Interlock.
Fleece.
Lacoste/Pique.
Terry.
Fancy Types
Shaker/Half cardigan stitch
Full Cardigan Stitch.
Milano Stitch.
Zig Zag Stitch.
Drop Knit.
Tuck/Pineapple.
Cable.
- Normal.
- Fancy.
- Batter Fly.
Diamond
- Normal.
- Fancy.
Pointal.
Page | 42
3.27.1Jersey/single jersey/ single knit/plain Knit/Basic Knit
Manufacturing: it’s a single bed structure can be produced both in flat bed and circular bed
knitting machine.
Fig: Single Jersey Front Fig: Single Jersey Back
3.27.1.1 Properties of Single Jersey:
1. Appearance: Different appearance in alternate side.
Technical Front – Look like V-shape stitch/jersey stitch
Technical Back – look like Semi-circle stitch/purl stitch
3.27.1.2 Stitch diagram of Single Jersey
T/B
( )
( )
( )
( )
T/F V V V V
Technical Back
Technical front
Needle Diagram
Page | 43
3.27.1.3 Loop diagram of Single jersey:
Technical Face: Technical Back:
3.27.1.4 Edge Curling: Curling produce for yarn tension/torque.
To reduce edge curling-
For Heavy knitting – After knitting before linking use Iron at the edge.
For light knit – After knitting before sewing use Iron at the edge.
3.27.1.5 Dimensional Stability: Dimensional stability is poor of single jersey.
To increase dimensional stability:
Increase Loop density
Apply resin finish
3.27.1.6 Unraveled: We can unravel the yarn from the both end.
Pull Pull
Page | 44
3.27.1.7 Elasticity: Good elasticity in width wise direction.
3.27.1.8 Laddering: Laddering can be repaired in flat bed knitting but not in circular knitting.
Cause of laddering:
> Needle Head Broken
> Poor Quality materials
> Lose tension
3.27.1.9 Density: The density of single jersey is light.
End uses: All basic sweaters, cardigans, pullovers for heavy knit.
Basic T-shirt, polo shirt for light knit.
3.27.1.10 Diagram & Notation:
Needle Diagram Stitch Diagram Notation
T/B
( )
( )
( )
( )
T/F V V V V
T/B O
O
O
O
T/F × × × ×
3.27.2 Rib Knitted Structure
The word ‘rib’ derives from animal ribs. In this structure needles head are not facing directly each
other. Rib fabrics are composed of loops formed in opposite direction. Various types rib
construction is there but common structure is 1×1 & 2×2 and above 2×2 construction like 3×3,
4×4, 5×5 are Fancy rib but 6×6 rib has special name like Derby rib.
Page | 45
3.27.2.1 Priorities of Rib:
Appearance: Both sides should be same in appearance but semi-circle loops observe in between
‘V’ shape loops.
Stitch diagram of Rib :
T/
B ( )
V (
) V
T/F V
( ) V
( )
Loop diagram of 11 Rib:
Edge curling: This fabric does not curl at the edges. It is a balance fabric because of having
Wales in both directions. The reason is both T/F and T/B bed are active, so tension is uniform on
both sides.
Dimensional stability: Dimensional stability is good.
Unraveled: We can unrope the structure from the end section only (because it forms from double
bed).
Elasticity: Elasticity can be observed well in widthwise direction.
Technical Back
Technical front
Needle Diagram: 1×1 rib
Page | 46
Laddering: Laddering can be repaired in flat bed knitting but not in circular knitting.
Density: Density is heavier than single jersey because loops catch at both sides.
End Uses:
Bottoms, collar, cuff, hem and for also for full dress.
Especially lightweight for undergarments because elasticity is good.
Diagram & Notation:
Needle Diagram Stitch Diagram Notation
T/B
( ) V
( ) V
T/F V
( ) V
( )
T/B
T/F
3.27.3 Double Jersey
If the plain stitches are one behind the other the fabric/ structure is known double jersey.
Needle diagram of Double Jersey:
T/F
T/B
Double Jersey Front Double Jersey Back
Page | 47
Properties/Identification:
Appearance: Both sides are same in appearance. Both technical front and technical back has V
shape stitch/ jersey stitch.
Stitch diagram of Double Jersey:
T/
B
V V V V
T/F V V V V
Loop diagram of Double jersey:
Edge curling: This fabric also does not curl at the edges. Reason is that it is more balanced fabric
because all needles are active on both sides (T/F and T/B bed). So tension is uniform on both sides.
Dimensional stability: Dimensional stability is very good.
Unraveled: We can unrope the structure from the end section only (because it forms from double
bed).
Elasticity: In comparison to other knit fabric; (especially rib) elasticity is poor.
Laddering: Laddering cannot be repaired in both flatbed knitting and circular knitting. Because
both side needles are active at opposite direction.
Density: In comparison to other knit fabric; density is heavier
Page | 48
End Uses:
Normally for heavy knitwear Vast because it is fitted.
Light knitted is preferred for sportswear (sports T-shirt) because it absorbs sweat well and
dimensional stability is good.
For ladies’ skirt. And also for tube fabric to make pocket.
Diagram & Notation:
Needle Diagram Stitch Diagram Notation
T/B V V V V
T/F V V V V
T/B
T/F
3.28 Knit Fabric Notation
The symbol which represent different types of loops. Like for Technical Face (V shape) indicate as
And Technical back loop (semi-circle shape) indicate as
3.28.1 Important of Knit Fabric Notation Language difference and variation in terminology cause communication problem with different
trade personnel from different country. Fabric description may vary even among organization
within the same country. The most visually accurate way of communication is to draw the full loop
structure. But however accurate drawing is much more complicated and thim consuming. That’s
why trade personnel prefer the notation.
Page | 49
3.29 Identification of Fancy Knitted Structure
3.29.1 Shaker/Half Cardigan Stitch
Properties:
Construction is 1*1
Both side not same
T/F side looks fluffy appearance is bulky
T/B side looks tight V/Chain stitch
3.29.2 Full Cardigan Stitch
Properties:
It’s double bedded structure
Construction is 1*1
Both side same
It’s look like raised V stitch
Shaker Front Shaker Back
Front Part Back Part
Page | 50
3.29.3 Milano Stitch
Properties:
It’s a double bedded structure. Normal construction is double jersey setting. i.e full needle from
both bed. But both side not same. Face side looks joint V stitch (After stretch can be obsrue) back
side look tight V or chain stitch.
3.29.4 Drop Knit:
In any construction (like S/J, Rib and D/J setting). Example 3*1, 5*2 etc. Both side not same.
5*2 drop knit
Front Part Back Part
Page | 51
3.29.5 Pointal:
In any construction like single jersey, rib and double jersey setting. Appearance looks with tiny hole.
Uses:
Used in Ladies Cardigan
Necklace, leaf pointelle-stitch tights
Used in Sweater jacket
Used in Ladies Pull over
Used in Mini Skirt
Used in Ladies Tights.
3.29.6 Tuck/ Pineapple stitch:
It’s a double bedded structure. Tuck stitch two types
i. Single tuck.
ii. Double tuck.
Single tuck
T/F: With honey comb structure
T/B: V loops.
Page | 52
Double tuck
Both side honey comb structure.
3.29.7 Zig-Zag Stitch:
In any construction like S/J, Rib, D/J setting.
Appearance
Page | 53
3.29.8 Cable Design
Normal Cable
2 line Cables (fancy cable)
Page | 54
Butterfly CABLES
3.29.9 Diamond design
Diamond + Normal Cables
Page | 55
Fancy Diamond
Half Diamond
Fancy Diamonds Front Fancy Diamonds Back
Half Diamonds Front Half Diamonds Back
Page | 56
3.30 Sweater Operation Breakdown
Breakdown is a listing of the content of a job by elements. A garment consists of some parts and
some group of operations. Breakdown means to writing down all parts and all process/operation
after one another lying with the complete garment according to process sequence.
Armhole Status Point
Jersey
Rib
1st Step: - Needle Selection from both needle bed.
2nd Step: - Needle setting for rib as per buyer’s requirement
Needle setting by needle selection device
Page | 57
3rd Step: - Prepare rib height by course (c/s) say 10 c/s (Based on WPI, CPI)
A A1 18N B B1
Armhole Start Point
C C1
Rib
4th Step: - Loop transfer from back needle bed to front needle bed
Needle loop transfer from back to front needle bed by transfer comb.
5th Step: - After transferring the loops knot up to armhole point by number of course.
Page | 58
6th Step: - Prepare armhole point by decreasing or increasing – decreasing both demands on
styling.
Decreasing
Increase
Body Panel
7th Step: - Side by side prepare neck drop and finish up to neck line/ shoulder line.
8th Step: - Knit up to neck line/shoulder line
End of Production
Page | 59
Chapter 4
4.1 Process of Fully Fashioned Knitwear Manufacturing
Fully fashioning is a method of shaping knitted structure by increasing or decreasing the number
of Wales or needles. Fully fashioned knitwear is manufactured through knitting the whole
structure.
Now I am going to describe the production procedure of a fully fashioned knitwear- Sweater
manufacturing as per the sequence of production of Woolen & Wool Ltd.
Page | 60
Yarn (Receive from textile)
Store / Warehouse
Winding section
Yarn cone distribution section
Knitting section
Linking section
Linking continue/Trimming section
Mending section
Washing section
Drying section
Pressing & ironing
Finishing section
Yarn inspection by random
process
Knitting inspection
Linking inspection
Light check inspection
Button
hole
Labeling
like-
Main label
Size label
Care label
Folding Quality audit
by internal
expert/qualit
y circle team
Final pack Ready for
export
Button
attach
(If required)
Price tag/
Hang tag
Primary
packaging
Secondary/
Packagin
Final inspection
by buyer’s
representative
using AQL chart
Page | 61
4.1.1 Warehouse Arrangement and Yarn Inspection
Yarn is the main raw material of sweater manufacturing. Yarns are thread which is manufactured
from fiber. Based on different types of fiber, yarns used in sweater production.
4.1.1.1 Wastage consider in case of types of gauge and material quality:
In case of normal gauge/ regular gauge (3G, 5G, 7G); 4% production wastage is considered except
chenille yarn.
In case of fine gauge (10G, 12G) add 1% more wastage for any fine yarn except chenille yarn. So
production wastage is 4%+1%=5%.
In case of chenille yarn add 1% more wastage to the normal gauge and fine gauge. So for normal
gauge of chenille yarn wastage is 4%+1%=5% and fine gauge of chenille yarn 5%+1%=6%.
Fig: Yarn controller check the yarn swatch
Fig: Measure the weight of the yarn
Page | 62
Merchandiser give the yarn swatch to the yarn controller and controller check yarn that, are they
get the yarn as per requirement. Yarn received to distribution all the job is done by the yarn
controller. Yarn controller always give the feedback to the merchandiser. Yarn controller prepare
a swatch copy and send to the merchandiser and merchandiser send to the buyer. Here is some
swatch picture are given below.
4.1.1.2 How the yarn are being inspected?
Yarn can inspect in several way Woolen & Wool inspected the yarn in following way
In House
Lot wise Color Inventory
Divided by Style
4.1.1.3 Identify Types of Defects
There are many defects can be find into the yarn these are given below
Color
Matted
Color Shade
Poor Quality Yarn
Foreign Yarn
Fig: Buyer Swatch copy Fig: Factory Swatch Copy
Page | 63
4.1.2 Stores
All the trims, accessories, yarn are hold in the stores. After checking quality of yarn, trims and
accessories are sent to store.
4.1.2.1 Types of Stores
There are two types of store are available in the factory
1. Yarn Store
2. Accessories and Trims Store
We also found some stores in the factory
1. Cartoon Store
2. Stock Lots
3. Central Store
Goods received by the central store first and then distributed to the stores of different floors against
requisition slip.
Fig: Yarn Store of Woolen & Wool
Page | 64
4.1.2.2 List the types of goods and how the goods are arranged
The central store receives goods against Chalan or invoice according to purchase order (PO). Then
the received goods are weighted and counted whether those are some in weight or number
according to the packing list.
Fabrics.
Trim and accessories.
Stationary.
Buyer’s sample.
Colors.
Yarn.
Others.
They use multi-storied rack to store their trims & accessories. Every individual shelf is used for
individual buyer’s item.
They use multi – storied rack to store their yarn. Also keep the yarn on the floor
In fabric store I found all types of fabric are store there. Before store fabric are inspected under
Four Point system. In store they use in the following documents-
1. Goods receipt note
2. Invoice
3. Inventory & stock register
Page | 65
4.1.2.3 Invoice
The business report or document of any purchased from abroad or imported i.e. Called Invoice.
It’s a document given by the exporter what kind of goods they have supplied.
Fig: Invoice
Page | 66
Example of inventory report replica-
SL. Name of item Color Size Unit PI/QTY REQ/QT
Y
Short
In shipment store all types of inspected goods are store for the purpose of shipment.
Comments
All types of their store are not need and clean. All the wastage, yarn are spread here and there.
And worker do not used mask on the store area. They do not have specific store of carton.
4.1.3 Winding Section
This process is used to winding and coning the yarns by using winding machine. In this section, at
first winding operator open the yarn bales which are collected from the store room. The loose loops
of yarns then fitted with the ring of the winding machine and the winding operator stars coning
In the winding room main equipment is winding machine.
Winding: To convert hank to cone. (For easy knitting)
Note: Cone is made based on Ply.
In case of sweater the consumption is calculate based on the weight.
Fig: Winding Section
Page | 67
The cop which is prepared in the ring frame is not suitable for further processing. So the yarn is
converted into the shape of cone which is prepared in the winding. Practical experience shows that
winding process alters the yarn structure. The factors which affect the yarn structure during
winding are bobbin geometry, bobbin unwinding behavior, binding speed. This phenomenon does
not affect the evenness of the yarn but it affects the properties of the yarn such as thick places, thin
places, nep.
After manufacturing of yarn, from different departments in the preparatory process and ring
department, it is ready to make a shape into final cone form so that it can be shipped to customer
for use.
In order to avoid any complaints from customers, faulty winding cones are separated during
inspection by inspectors. Following three decisions are taken at this stage.
● Use as it is: When the fault is of some minor category, and there is no risk of next process
failure during unwinding. Decision is only taken by some senior person of quality.
● Rewind: Some faults can be removed after rewinding. But rewinding itself is costly affair
and quality of cones also detritus after reprocessing.
● Degraded as B grade: If fault is of such nature that rewinding can’t remove that fault and
there is doubt for customers to complains then such cones are downgraded to lower grade.
Degrading cones in to lower grade is again financial loss to the company.
Fig: Automatic Rewind Machine
Page | 68
4.1.4 Knitting Yarn Distribution Section
After coning the yarns, a distributor distributes yarn cone to the knitting operator as per
requirement. Normally the distributor is used that quantity of yarn to knit one dozens of sweater
to one knit operator.
4.1.4.1 Yarn Issuing System
The yarn issuing system to the operator in the basis of yarn weight when consider also
Collar of yarn
Yarn content
Type of Gauge
Weight of Yarn
Production card number
Carton no
Style no
Mending
Lot no
Size
Quantity
Inspection
Remarks
Fig: Yarn Distributer, Distribute the Yarn to the Knitting operator
Page | 69
When complete the knitting of garments parts the operator return the yarn distribution section, and
they receive knitted parts. They again weight of the knitted garments parts and check or inspection
the parts, if result is ok they make collar and cuff parts. The knitted garments parts dispatch to the
linking section.
Yarn distributer keep the record against when distribute the yarn, and also keep the record of
operator.
Fig: Operator production Sheet
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4.1.4 Sample Room
Sample is the physical form of buyer’s specification. An independent and well equipped sample
section is often considered as the heart of the factory. Whenever a Merchandiser receives a PO and
spec sheet he then dispatches it to the sample section. After getting approval from the buyer of the
counter sample it is then sent for cutting and sewing in bulk quantity. For purpose sometimes the
buyer or client provides artwork of the desired things or original sample of a particular size.
4.1.4.1 Sample Making Procedure
Fig: Woolen & Wool Sample Room
Buyers PO
Spic shut
Ant work /workman sheet
Knitting
Linking
Sample making
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4.1.4.2 Sample Approval Procedure
The manufacturer must submit two initial samples in the core / base size as specified below:
Women’s wear Woven fabric
Knit fabric
Size 10
Size S
Menswear Top
Bottom
Size M
Size 34
Children’s wear Girls
Boys
Junior
Toddlers
Babies
Size 10
Size 10
Size 4
Size 1
Size 0
4.1.4.3 Sample Submission Procedure When submitting a sample, supplier must ensure a Sample Detail Card to be attached onto the
left underarm for tops and left side seam under waist band for bottoms.
The card MUST have the following information:
Supplier / factory name
Harris Scarf style number
Size
Description
Sample approval status (eg: 1st fit, PP, Advertising, etc.)
Garment size
Fabric details
- Yarn count
- Construction
- Fiber content
- Fabric weight
- and any finishes
Production country
Colour
Comments
Name / signature of supplier’s QA technician / Merchandiser
All relevant sections on Sample Detail Card MUST be filled in and signed off by supplier’s QA
technician and / or supplier’s Merchandiser.
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4.1.4.4 Different Kind of Sample
Factory Make different types of sample to the buyer requirement and in order to achieved buyer
satisfaction
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4.1.5 Knitting Room
There are different types of techniques to knit a sweater. Knitting operators knit the sweater
according to design chart which is developed by the designer. A designer can make the design or
developing by the design chart as given by the buyer. Different kinds of knitting machine can be
used, such as hand driven and power driven machine. In Bangladesh hand driven flatbed knitting
machines are widely used. Knit machine can be again classified into different type’s gauges of
needles. In sweater production normally 1G, 3G, 5G, 7G, 9G, 10G, 12G machines are used.
4.1.5.1 Difference Between Hand Driven and Power Driven Machine
Sl/No Hand Driven Power Driven
1 Driven manually Driven by power
2 Can produce limited design Can produce unlimited design
3 Low volume production High volume production
4 Integrated garment not possible Integrated garment possible
Fig: Knitting Section
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Power driven machine normally known as Jacquard Machine
4.1.5.2 Modern Jacquard Machine in Sweater Industry
There are several different knitting techniques that involve stranded or multi-color knitting. One
style, the style least often used in hand-knitting, is the jacquard knitting technique.
Jacquard knitting is recognizable by its reversibility, either because the fabric is truly double-sided
or because the back side does not show those floats we expect from stranded knitting. Instead, a
project knitted in the jacquard knitting technique will have a dotted effect on the back side.
Jacquard knitting is most easily done on a machine. Indeed, the technique was developed by people
wanting to knit on a Jacquard loom. On a knitting machine (like this one), you can program a
jacquard knitting pattern and use as many colors as you like. While most stranded knitting focuses
on only two colors, the jacquard knitting technique on a machine can incorporate a variety of
colors. Those well-versed in machine knitting recommend that someone new to jacquard knitting
should use pre-punched cards, at least until you get the hang of it. (I highly recommend the linked
pamphlet if you really want to try the jacquard knitting technique.)
Fig: Modern Jacquard Machine
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Advantage of jacquard machine: 1. There are some designs which the manual machine cannot manufacture but the jacquard
machine can do this.
2. It requires less time to produce sweater.
3. Less man power is needed.
Disadvantage:
1. The machine is costly.
2. Wastage is more about 10-15%.
Procedure of Jacquard Machine Production
At first buyer gives spec sheet which contain design chart that is send to the merchandiser. Then
merchandiser check the sheet and send to the designer, designer make a design chart with the
following the spec sheet. After making the design chart, designer hand over the sheet to the
machine programmer. Then the machine programmer reform the design sheet with the help of the
software, Woolen & Wool used HengqiAng pds Program. Then this design is taken into pen
drive. Pen drive is then connected with jacquard machine [power drive machine]. jacquard machine
save this design. operator take yarn from yarn distribution section then yarn set in the machine.
following this design, the machine start to produce sweater. front part, back part and sleeve of
sweater are separately knitted by the machine. quality controller cheek the knitted fabric. It is
requiring less man power, such as one person can operate four jacquard machine.
Fig: Jacquard Machine Control Panel
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Modern Jacquard Machine Product
Basic Information of Woolen & Wool Jacquard Machine
No of Jacquard Machine 100
Temperature Required 15-20 Degree Celsius
One operator can operate 4 machine
3G Machine 10
12G Machine 65
5 and 7G Machine 25
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Jacquard Machine used in Woolen & Wool Ltd
GOUSHENGThis is computerized flat knitting machine with single carriage single system.
This series is advanced type. It applies digital technology to achieve transfer, tuck, eyelet stitch, j
acquard, apparent shape, hidden shape and other regular pattern knitting functions. It can knit bas
ic stitch like plain stitch, rib fabric, links and links, interlock stitch, etc. irregular multicolor jacqu
ard, twit flowers weft organization, aran, cord weave, racked stitch, cable, etc. It is suitable to use
synthetic, wool, acrylic, mixed fiber, yarn material etc to knit readymade cardigan, hat, gloves, s
carf and accessories of cloth.
Machine Details
Product Type Sweater
Type Jacquard
Production Capacity 1.2m/s
Model Number GSJX-1A-52
Brand Name GOUSHENG
Power(W) 1KW
Knitting Style Flat
Knitting Method Double
Computerized Yes
Weight 700kg
Dimension(L*W*H) 2650*850*16...
color blue knitting machine
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4.1.5.3 List the functions of the knitting room and equipment’s installed
In the knitting room an operator knitting the garments parts as per design chart. There is main
equipment are.
Knitting machine Brush (hand)
Sector Cutter / Scissors
Transfer comb Plain machine
One, two, Seven and Three kata Over lock machine
Weight stand Flat lock machine
Guide Kansai machine
Weight Feed of the arm
Side stand Button hole machine
Yarn Zigzag machine
Controller spring Blind stitch machine
Recorder / long spring Bar tack machine
Auto I-hole machine
Nose Button stitch machine
Double needle machine Shank button attaching machine
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How an operator knit the garment in different types / gauge of knitting machine. Yarn feeding to
panel knitting; both in hand driven and power driven v-bed / flatbed knitting machine.
There are 2 types of knitting. One is Circular knitting (Tubular knit). Another is Flat knitting.
Circular knit is used to knit body fabrics. Flat knit is used to knit Collars & Cuffs.
There is another type of flat knit machines which are used to make Sweaters (Tricot garments).
With these machines, the body fabrics, sleeves and necks are being made. And they are joining
together with the help of linking machines. We have to note that the attachments of these parts are
done with the main yarns. No separate sewing threads are used for joining. Buyers use to call these
garments as Knitted garments or Tricot garments or Sweaters. Mostly cotton, acrylic and wool
yarns are used.
Wales lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This cannot be changed. Coarse lines can be altered
by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture.
4.1.5.4 Method of improving the production:
Materials check
Available materials
Machine tension
4.1.5.5 Organization chart of the knitting room
PM
APM
Incharge
Superviser
Operator
Helper
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4.1.5.6 Production planning
Production planning is concerned with deciding in advance what is to be produced, when to be
produced, where to be produced and how to be produced. It involves foreseeing every step in the
process of production so as to avoid all difficulties and inefficiency in the operation of the
plant. Production planning has been defined as the technique of forecasting or picturing ahead
every step in a long series of separate operations, each step to be taken in the right place, of the
right degree, and at the right time, and each operation to be done at maximum efficiency.
4.1.5.7 Objectives of Production Planning
The basic objectives of production planning are as under: -
On the basis of the sales forecast and its engineering analysis, to estimate the kind of the
resources like men, materials, machines, methods etc. in proper quantities and qualities.
It also aims to make all necessary arrangement so that the production targets as set in the
production budget and master schedules are reached. While attaining these targets,
adjustments are made for the fluctuations in the demand.
SWOT Analysis helps in strategic planning in following manner:
It is a source of information for strategic planning.
Builds organization’s strengths.
Reverse its weaknesses.
Maximize its response to opportunities.
Overcome organization’s threats.
It helps in identifying core competencies of the firm.
It helps in setting of objectives for strategic planning.
It helps in knowing past, present and future so that by using past and current data, future
plans can be chalked out.
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4.1.6 Knitting Inspection
This is the process to check the different knitted panel. After knitting the different pieces of
sweater, the knitting inspectors check the quality of knitted fabric on the basis of some criteria.
These are- checking panel measurement, test the knitting tension, identification of
knitting mistake, style check, design check, spot check, foreign yarn mistake checks etc.
4.1.6.1 Some Common Knitting Defects
Cracked stitch Uneven hem width
Broken stitch
Seam out of alignment
Skipped stitch Incorrect position of label
Loose stitch Design or collar check etc.
Fig: Knitting Panel Inspection
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4.1.6.2 Advice for Solution
To maintain in line quality, they follow the traffic light system. If the production and machine is
ok then they the particular machines or lines show green light, if there is problem temporarily then
yellow card is shown, if the fault or problem of a line or machines are severe then red card is
shown.
4.1.7 Linking Room
The working procedure of this section is to link the different panels to produce a complete sweater. In this section linking operator links the different panels by using linking machine which is
popularly known as dial linking machine
4.1.7.1 Types of linking machine:
Dial linking machine
Braider machine
automatic linking machine
Flat type Linking Machine
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4.1.8 Linking inspection
After linking the body parts, it will be inspected by the Q.C team in the inspection section. Linking
inspection section check the garments joining area. Find out any kind of defect of the garments,
which may be crate major problem. At first they spread the garments in the table. Linking operator
check the garments in the following method in the below:
Parts up-down
Thread matching
Thread tension
Stripe checking
Fig: Linking Inspection Section
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4.1.9 Linking Continue / trimming section
In this section the body will be trimmed. Working procedure of linking continue section is mainly
hidden of knotting. The main objective of trimming section is….
4.1.9.1 Function of Trimming Section
To remove extra yarn remove
To cut extra sewing thread
To remove dust or mud
To check the hole garments
To solve linking problem
To maintain best quality
To remove any kind of dust
Find out /check hole garments
To mark the defect area
Body and sleeve part check separately
Find out knitting or linking problem
Fig: Trimming Section
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4.1.10 Light Check
After mending, the body goes to Light check section for light checking. Light check mainly used
in a sweater factory to find out any kind of fault or defect.
Such as: There is an obvious chance of making few faulty garments in a batch due to faulty machine
or human intervention. The defective pieces can be corrected by repairing or changing defective
parts. But repair work costs money and time. These both increase inefficiency of the company.
And if one defect passed through initial process without detecting and correction and process goes
on then at the later stages repair cost will be much more than detecting it in initial stage.
4.1.10.1 List of Instrument Used in Light Check
1. Bulb
2. Dummy
3. Table
4. Measurement Tap
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4.1.11 Mending and Washing
From trimming section, it will be going to mending section for mending. The problem with being
a knitter is that friends may ask one to fix a sweater's loose seam, dropped stitch, or other hole. If
the item is small enough, it gets dunked in a stainless-steel mixing bowl of shampoo suds in
lukewarm water (hair is hair). Then it sits for a while, sometimes a half hour, sometimes a whole
day, depending on my mood and schedule. Then the dirty water gets poured into the sink, while
the water in the woolen item is gently pressed or squeezed out, never twisted or wrung. Then the
piece is dunked again in cooler, clean water and repeated as needed till the suds are gone. If the
item is large, like a blanket, I will soak it as above but in the washing machine, and then let the
machine spin it out, again rinsing as needed—but avoiding the agitation cycle which could felt/full
the piece to a stiff child-size. To repeat, the enemies of woolens are hot water combined with
agitation.
Fig: Mending Section Fig: Hydro – Extorter Machine
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4.1.12 Ironing and Finishing
Ironing Section: The objective of sweater ironing is to give permanent shape of the garments
and to improve aesthetic value of the garment. It requires heavy stress for sweater pressing.
Finishing Section: At this stage labeling, price tag attaching, folding, primary packaging,
secondary packaging, final packaging, metal detecting and final inspection are done as per buyer
requirement. Finally, goods are ready for export.
4.1.11.1 Finishing equipment’s installed in factory are given below
Name of equipment Quantity
Normal iron 13
Steam iron 2
Passing machine 1
Ironing table 13
Button attach machine 2
Button hole machine 1
Tag machine 12
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4.1.11.2 Pressing Equipment Available in the Factory
There are two types of pressing machines:
1. Normal iron
2. Steam iron
4.1.11.3 Method of Marking on the Carton
1. Primary package individual garment
2. Secondary package
3. Final Package
4.
Main Mark
B.N.
P.O.
Sty.
Co.
c/r bank.
Page | 89
4.2 Quality Control Department
Clifton group main trading to offer their customers first quality merchandising. Quality controls
programs are not only help spot & reject defective items but more importantly they pinpoint
production operations that need special attention. Thereby reducing the number defects in future
production.
4.2.1 Quality Control System of Woolen & Wool
01. Piece Goods Inspection System –
During piece goods inspection - They follow four points system.
inspect - at least 10% of the total rolls in the shipment.
They selected - at least one of the roll each color or more than one roll per color.
They indicate as a major defect -- i.e.-- slabs, mixed yarn, hole, needle mark, missing yarn,
crease mark, foreign yarn, shading, oil mark, dirty, dye spot, color out, broken pattern,
grain line, etc.
02. Cutting Department Quality Control
Fabric Relaxation - they open fabric rolls before 24 hours start fabric spreading, rolls
selection width same & side dye lot.
They follow - during spreading -- marking placement, running shading, fabric ply tension,
layer counting, fabric edge controlling, fabric ply counting, over lapping & pilling
direction.
They follow - after cutting - narrow goods, cut pieces checked by original pattern, notches,
miss - cut, ragged cutting and matching plies.
03. In Process Quality Control:
Their main motto is to producing good quality merchandises. So, they control quality in process
as one of the key.
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4.1.2 Factory Quality Control Procedure:
Piece Goods Inspection [4 POINT SYSTEM]
This dept. inspects the goods upon receipt, they inspect 10%of all goods prior to spreading.
Quantity for inspection: They inspect at least 10% of the total rolls in the shipment. The Four-
Point System is being received the widest acceptance in both the textile and needle trades because
it is the most lenient. It is simple and easy to understand. Since it is widely used, the Four Point
System is recommended by most buyers as the piece goods inspection procedures.
AMERICAN 4-POINT SYSTEM
CLASSIFICAT
ION
PENAL
TY
POINTS
1 POINT 2 POINT 3 POINT 4 POINT
DEFECTS AT
ANY
DIMENSION
LESS
THAN
3”
EXCEEDING 3”(
BUT NOT
EXCEEDIND 6” )
EXCEEDING 6” (
BUT NOT
EXCEEDING 9” )
EXCEEDING 9”
There are three defects in fabric. These are as follows: -
CRITICAL DEFECT: Garment defect that is not repairable and cannot sale.
MAJOR DEFECT: Garment defect that can be easily seen & can affect the durability of garment
but repairable.
MINOR DEFECT: Garment defect that is consumer acceptable and cannot affect the durability.
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Chapter 5 5.1 Merchandising Department
Merchandising is an important work in garments sector. So that merchandiser job is essential for
every garment. In this job the employer must have need hard working mind, convincing power,
instant intelligence, powerful observation, patience etc. Without merchandiser no garments can
run smoothly.
Without buyer no garments company can exists. For this reason, buyer satisfaction is very
important. Buyer means that buy the products from any organization. In garments sector buyer
means especially foreign buyer who come to our country and buy products from our garments. At
this time of giving order if buyer satisfied with the help of merchandiser then the buyer will come
again. Buyers another condition is delivery the products in due time. Merchandiser take care this
condition seriously. Because if buyers do not get products due time then they will not come again
that garments. So merchandisers are handling and caring all kinds of work from taking order to
delivery products to buyers and always wants to satisfy them because garments or garments
sector’s welfare depends on buyer’s satisfaction.
Ready - made garments are fast growing export sector in Bangladesh. The overall impact of
readymade garments export is certainly one of the most significant social and economic
developments in contemporary Bangladesh. In order to simulate rapid of the country, particularly
through industrialization, the government has adopted an open door policy to attract foreign
investment in Bangladesh. As a result, there are about 2500 export oriented readymade garments
in Bangladesh.
5.1.1 Merchandising Is a business or marketing activities responsible for ensuring of products desirability both in
qualitability quantitability.
Merchandising is a function that is created to perform a set of sequential activities that follow
through from design concept to order placement to execution to delivery of merchandise to the
satisfaction of customer expectation.
The key factors behind this are low technological development, lower output, cut throat
competition, high raw material cost, inadequate infrastructure, traditional productivity,
unfavorable regularity policies, and globalization in fact. However, there a fair list of the
producers, suppliers, and exporters that are fully acknowledge with regularity policies and
Page | 92
formalities, international marketing policies and procedures. The only concern is in executing their
productivity initiatives, and meeting with order deadlines.
Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts, which comply with all
procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on time considering quality, cost and time.
Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment business. They provide the right products
at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet the market
demand. In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig to manage one’s time properly,
so he can focus on value adding actions.
5.1.2 Merchandiser – Merchandising may be defined as: - Person who merchandises the goods,
specifically for export purposes. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials &
accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments
within scheduled time.
5.1.3 Objective of Merchandiser
To ensure
Right quality
Right quantity
Right cost and
Right time.
5.1.4 Responsible of a smart merchandiser Forecasting
Sourcing a buyer
Negotiation
Product development
Market and product analysis
Booking orders
Raw materials purchasing
Production follow ups
Payments follow ups
Internal external communication (Buyer and Supplier)
Sampling development, monitoring
Lab dips prepare and getting approve
Accessories and trims identification and consumption
Prepare internal order sheets
Preparing purchase orders
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Giving shipping instructions and follow ups shipping procedure
Prepare documentation
Taking responsibility for inspection
Fabric consumption and calculating cost analysis
5.1.5 Quality of a good merchandiser
Planning Capability: Merchandiser should be capable of planning, based on the planning the
order is to be followed. If the planning is not done properly it will directly affect the delivery time
of the order.
Decision making: For a Merchandiser, decision making power is most important. He should think
about the decision to be taken and to act in a right way.
Communication Skill: The communication is very much important to promote the business
activity. The merchandiser should remember that communication must be lurid and should having
face to face conversation with the buyer.
Loyalty: Loyalty is an essential character of human beings. Especially for the business people like
merchandiser it is a must.
Knowledge about the field: Merchandiser should have adequate knowledge about the garments,
Computer knowledge, and technical knowledge to communicate with different people in the
business is a must.
Co-ordinate & Co-operate: Merchandiser is the person who is actually co-ordinate with the
number of departments. To Co-ordinate with different people in the industry he should be co-
operative.
Monitoring ability: Merchandiser should monitor to expedite the orders.
Other qualities: Education, Experience, Situational Management, Ability to Evaluate, Dedication,
Knowledge of expediting procedures.
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5.1.6 Quick response merchandising procedure
Forecasting
Sourcing (Buyer/supplier/vendor)
Order negotiation
Order confirmation/acceptance of order
Generate manufacture (i.e. arrange pp meeting with concern department) PM/QAM/in
charge
Source and prepare yarn/fabric
Prepare/monitoring lab dipping procedure
Order bulk quantity (yarn/fabric)
Getting approvals of trims and accessories
Prepare pre- production/size sat sample
Getting approval of pre- production/size set sample
Start bulk production (approval)
Ensure quality, quantity i.e. production
Arrange shipping sample and send to the buyer
Arrange final inspection and prepare for shipment
Follow ups export procedure
Monitoring payment procedure
Getting feedback (Buyer)
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5.1.6.1 Forecasting Brief
Forecasting: is a process of predicting or estimating the future based on past and present data. Forecasting provides information about the potential future events and their consequence for the
organization.
Objective of forecasting
Economical benefit.
Organizational benefit.
New business agreement.
Better customer relations.
Supply chain logistics.
Elements of forecasting
Analyze current
Information
Analyze past
Information
Predict future
Patterns
Forecasting
Timely
Reliable
Meaningful
Accurate
Written Easy to use
Page | 96
Step in the forecasting
Step-01: Determine purpose of forecasting.
Step-02: Establish a time horizon (which season)
Step-03: Select a forecasting technique.
Step-04: Gather and analyze data.
Step-05: Prepare the forecasting.
Step-06: Monitor the forecasting.
Limitation of forecasting
1. The collection and analysis of data about the past, present and future involves a lot of time
and money. Many small firms don’t do forecasting because of high cost.
2. Forecasting can only estimate the future events; it cannot guarantee that these events will
take place in the future. Long - term forecasting will be less accurate as compare to short
– term forecasting.
5.1.6.2 Sourcing
Sourcing is a term used to describe process of determining how and where item will be procured. It includes the decision on the selecting supplier for materials procurement and vendors for apparel
production.
Sourcing Execution Internet
Business
Advertising
Embassy
Exhibition
Page | 97
Factor for Sourcing
Sourcing decision depends on some factors.
1. Product Factor: style, design, quality standard, price reference.
2. Company/vendor Factor: Company good will, previous history, minimum order
quantity, quality standard, and service ability.
3. Company Factors:
- Political: The present political stability.
- Economical: Financial, banking, insurance facilities or TAX free or other
opportunities.
- Cultural and Language: In time delivery, previous history, morality, religious factor,
ability of speaking English, education
- Geographical: Distance, Transport cost.
5.1.6.3 Checking for selecting a vendor/factory; at a glance.
1. Name and address of the company.
2. Contract number and person.
3. Major Market or customer they deal.
4. Major products (which products they experienced).
5. Physical size of the plant.
6. Number of employees.
7. Financial Status.
8. Locating of production.
9. Capacity (Monthly or annually).
10. Production facilities.
11. Quality standard.
12. Minimum order quantity.
5.1.6.4 Negotiation
In general, negotiation is not a contest. It is an opportunity to establish a good working relationship
between two or more parties, while obtaining a good deal.
Page | 98
The negotiation also called bargaining is a process of communication and changing of ideas with
the buyer by which they make a series of demands and compromise so as to come to a desired
point of mutual acceptance so that both parties can be benefited.
Negotiation result
I win I win
You lose you win
I lose I lose
You lose you win
Negotiation skills
Discovering common interest and removal of personal issues.
Questioning skills
Positive attitude
Listening effectively
Knowledge of the negotiation process
Understanding body language
Creativity (Settle on a solution you negotiate)
Communication skills
Observation and judgement
Influence skills
Self-confidante
Know when to start, stop and the bottom line
Page | 99
5.1.7 Activities of Merchandiser
Merchandiser need to work in a systematic way to ensure proper delivery of products at due date.
They had to do their work into daily, weekly, monthly and yearly basis. The activities are-
5.1.7.1 Daily activities of a merchandiser
Checking mails and faxes. They need to give the reply within the day based on priority.
Checking port status and convey to concern department.
Checking the shipments documents and inform concern department.
Checking daily production status to understand shipment status
Checking shipment schedule and raw materials production status
Follow-up with sample section for different buyer’s sample
Follow-up with store for fabric and accessories received
Follow-up with the production manager for the production plan
Follow-up with the commercial people L/C, BTB L/C and L/C amendment
Price quotation and delivery confirmation to the buyer
Reporting to marketing and merchandising chief on the daily activities.
Reporting to executive director on the important issue like various meeting, customer visits
compliances and code of conduct
5.1.7.2 Weekly activities of merchandiser
Meeting with the fabrics and accessories supplier
Meeting with the buyer and buying houses
Prepare fabric and accessories requirement list, checking with concern and passing it to
supplier with proper specification.
Prepare purchase order with approval and sign of proper authority.
Issuing pro-forma invoice with the approval and sign of the proper authority.
Providing cost break-down to commercial department during L/C opening
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5.1.7.3 Monthly activities of a merchandiser
Meeting with the production people
Meeting with the quality people and pattern master
5.1.7.4 Yearly activities of a merchandiser
Yearly self-assessment on the performance based on number of buyers handled, shipment
quantity, CM charge negotiated, debit note settled with the supplier.
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5.1.8 Business Development Procedure of Woolen & Wool Ltd
Apparel industry must be developed with the trend of market otherwise they cannot extend their
business. To collect new buyer and business with them a company must follow the procedure of
business development. Buyers have been chosen by two ways. Firstly, Buyer chooses the supplier
and the second one sometimes, Woolen & Wool Ltd want to work with a particular buyer and
then contact with them according to that. The Woolen & Wool Ltd follow the procedure of
business development; this are given below-
Price conforms and order place from buyer
Price negotiation
Sampling stage
Company arrange a meeting with buyer for business
Offer to buyer for visit the company
Collect audit pass report from buyer
First E-mail to the buyer
Know about the nature of buyer
Buyer Selection
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5.1.8.1 First email to buyer for business development
For new business development sellers have to communicate with buyer. Email is the easiest and
swift way of communication so when seller will contract first time with buyer by email at that time
have to mention some important information about company. Which kind of things should be
including here this are-
Information about you and your company.
Products information about your company.
Offer to buyer for visit the company
Company arrange a meeting with buyer for business
Sampling stage
Price negotiation
Price conforms and order place from buyer
Capacity and productivity.
Which buyer work with you.
Attachment a beautiful sample photograph.
Wearing for feedback.
This kind of information should be included in this email. On the other hand, this email will be
minimum word and maximum communication.
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Sample of first email
Dear Sir,
I am Mr. Mohammad Rahat, SR Merchandiser of the Woolen & Wool. We are the manufacturer
& exporter of readymade garments in Bangladesh.
“Woolen & Wool” began its journey into the garments sector in 2003 as garments in Bangladesh.
Since then the organization being run by highly qualified, experienced and professional
management and stuff along with Sophisticated Machineries, Latest Technology, Skilled
Workmanship, Substantial Marketing and Proper Discipline. We are ready and able to give you
100% quality, best price and service. We believe it is possible to us to enter into the marathon of
global market.
Our previous practice is the best quality of products and on time delivery. We are always
committed to the buyers.
Our Products Designer Sweater, knitted Sweater, Pullover, Cardigan, Poncho, Jumper, Jersey, Muffler, Cap and
Hand Gloves for Women, Girls, Men, Boys and Children and many more. We also produce all
kinds of Sweater item.
Please send us your current inquiry for sampling & costing.
Your kind co-operation would be highly appreciated.
Thanks & Best Regards
Muhammad Rahat Woolen & Wool Ltd
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Feed –back from buyer in response to first email
Dear X,
I am pleased about your company, so I want to make a business with you. So you should send
some original sample include with FOB price.
Best regards,
Y
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5.1.9 Some Important Issue for a merchandiser as well as factory before starting
work with a new buyer:
The buyer name & history.
Final destination or place of delivers the goods.
Buying house name (if any).
Payment terms (L/C or TT or Contact).
If L/C then, the Payment Condition at sight or deferred.
If deferred then, 60 days or 90 days or any other.
Price will be in FOB or CIF?
Is the price will be including buying commission or w/o commission?
Who will inspect the goods?
If third party then who will be pay the inspection charge?
Original art work with styling details or Scan copy must be needed.
Actual & latest size specs with all the sizes which qty in purchase order / order sheet.
Fabrications details (Composition, Type, Gsm, Peach/sweated, Enzyme/silicon or any
other additional requirement).
Additional fabric details (Appliqué etc, if any).
Wash garments or w/o wash (if then washing details).
Print details including dimension & placement. Such as pigment/rubber/flock/foil etc (if
any).
Embroidery details (Normal stitch, appliqué, Badge etc, if any).
Test requirement details (Azo or any others, if any).
Order qty, if possible color wise (Approximately).
Maximum body color (Approximately).
Size wise qty ratio (%) = S/? %, M/? %, L/ ? % etc.
Stripe repetition details with color (for yarn dyed).
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Viscose percentage for Grey mélange & Polyester percentage for cvc or pc
Probable delivery date.
5.1.10 The Confirming Order after Merchandiser Do Some Work
Confirming price is meant to confirm the order. And this is the third stage on which a merchandiser
works. Firstly, he is to do the followings:
Time and action planning: Before starting the bulk production preparing time and action calendar is the most
important work. How they set up their line. for maximum production and which method
they will use for maintaining the lead time.
Prepare Gantt chart:
Gantt chart is the consequence of time and action planning. To maintain the time and action
planning preparing the Gantt chart is very necessary for a merchandiser.
Receiving color standard:
Matching color standard in accordance with the buyer’s requirement. And for this reasons
receiving color standard is an important task
Submission of lab dip:
For fixing color standard lab dip plays a vital role in this case. So for lab dip test submission
is much necessary.
Development of printing and embroidery: If there is requirement of printing and embroidery the development of printing and
embroidery should be going on along with the bulk production.
Booking of yarn fabrics, yarn and accessories:
Before going to the bulk production booking of yarn fabrics, and accessories are a pre-
requisite for a merchandiser to be performed.
Receiving of master LC: Arranging all things above by this time master LC will be reached to the bank and receiving
the master LC from the commercial manager is one of the responsibilities of a
merchandiser.
Opening of Back to Back LC:
Being received master LC opening back to back LC is more necessary. Otherwise, bulk
production may be hampered for not storing the goods on by the suppliers.
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Now, being a merchandiser he/she have to calculate cost, pricing and consumption. Without
calculation he/she cannot make a profit for the company. For sweater calculation he/she must have
to knowledge about style, design, season, term etc. those are given below: -
5.1.11 Knitwear Style and Design Analysis
Body Shape: Fitted waist
Collar: Tuttle
Sleeve: CAP
Shoulder: Saddle
Pocket: Fake lip.
Style
Something own/Individual properties by which we can differentiate from others
Fashion
Something common related to time, attitude, culture etc.
Design
Is a creative endeavor to solve the problem
Objective
Evaluate merchandise classification.
Calculate competitive costing and pricing.
Plan for pattern/fashioning calculation.
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Body Shape
Shoulder
Sleeve
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Collar
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5.1.12 Calculate the yarn consumption and coasting/pricing techniques for the
fully fashioned knitwear.
What is consumption?
How many yarn are required to produced one dzn sweater?
What are the basic requirements?
Knowledge about gauges—4G, 5G, 7G etc.
Knowledge about material/yarn—100% acrylic
Weight of the garments—15lbs/dzn
What is design chart?
Types (method) & design chart?
Basic requirements to calculate the design chart
Size specification (measurement)
Tension (WPI & CPI) or knowledge about gages
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Weight of the Garment (given by the buyer)
Wastage
Wastage Mainly 6%
Good strength—Except chenille
Yarn
Poor Strength
Chenille—mostly used
100% Angora Not used in
100% Cashmere Bangladesh
What are the objectives of costing?
Determining the competitive and correct pricing
.
What are the basic requirements?
Understanding styling and designing.
Knowledge about different gauge.
Mode of business term (FOB, CFR, CIF, etc).
Mode of Payments (L/C type and payments term).
Nature of business (Factory or buying house).
Condition
Considering a compliance Factory (FOB).
Not any (CM/CMT) base factory.
Wastage
Gauge
Normal Gauge (3,5,7G)
Fine Gauge (10, 12G
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Pricing---Cost + Profit
Selling price
Material cost Fixed /Overhead Cost
+
Labour Wages
Season based one gauge.
Types and gauge Peak Season off peak season
3, 5, 7 (Heavy sweater) (March- August) (Sept- February)
Coarge gauge
Production and shipment
Reverse
10, 12 (Light weight (September-Feb) (March- August)
Sweater) Fine Gauge
Standard CM ranges (Compliance factory) CM based on gauge and season.
Types of Gauge Off peak Peak
C
M
Direct
Cost Indirect Cost
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3G $20/dzn $22/dzn
5G $21/dzn $23/dzn
7G $22/dzn $24/dzn
10/12G $24/dzn $26/dzn
Additional Charges:
Styling and designing charges
1. For raglan and saddle = $0.5/dzn
2. Drop and set-in = $0.25/dzn
3. For straight shoulder = No additional charges because no increase and decrease.
Designing Charges
1. Cables (Normal)------$0.25/line/dzn
2. Cables (Fancy)--------$0.50/line/dzn
3. Cables (Butterfly)----$1.50/line/dzn
Diamond
1. Normal Diamond-------- $1.00/line/dzn
2. Fancy Diamond---------- $1.50line/dzn
Calculate the costing/pricing of a men’s sweater with crewneck, raglan shoulder, long
sleeve, allover 6 line normal cables, and 4 lines normal diamond in 5G 100% acrylic yarn.
Shipment: 10th September.
Weight: 15 lbs/dzn
FOB Factory merchandising say yarn price $1.50/lbs.
Solution:
15+6% =15.90 lbs/dzn $1.50 = $23.85
CM = $21.00
Styling = $0.50
Designing = $5.50
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Trims/Accessories = $4.00
Commercial+Logisti+Mise = $4.00
FOB factory = $58.85/dzn
5.1.13 Merchandising Procedure to Execute an Order.
If all Merchandiser used to follow the below Work-Flow chart, then it would be easier for them
to keep control over his/her order from 1st day to the shipment of his/her orders.
Need to Receive Product Package to do Preliminary Costing.
Sampling to Confirm Order.
Price Confirmation.
Oder Confirmation.
Purchase Order (PO) Received, Analysis and Distribution to Respective Departments.
Need to Receive Color Standard.
Issue Pro-Forma Invoice to Get Export L/C and Export L/C Check Properly & Hand
Over to Commercial Department to Proceed for Execution Prepare CPS or TNA.
5.1.14 Merchandiser Should Know Different Incoterms in International Business
Incoterms of International Business
IN – International
Co – Commercial
Terms – Terminology
INCOTERMS is very important those who doing business in internationally. Incoterms were first
developed by ICC (International Chamber of Commerce) in Paris France. Incoterms was
first developed in 1939. It defines the trade contract, responsibilities and liabilities between buyer
and seller. It is invaluable and cost saving tool. The importer and exporter need not go under
lengthy negotiation about a condition of each transaction after that revised version published in
2000 and 2002.
Terms of International Trade.
1. FOB – Free on Board
2. CFR – Cost and Freight
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3. C&F – Clearing and Forwarding
4. CIF – Cost Insurance and Freight
5. CM – Cost of Manufacturing
6. CMT – Cost of Manufacturing and Trim
7. FCL – Full Container Load.
8. LCL – Less Container Load.
9. DAT – Delivery and Terminal.
10. DAP – Delivery and Port.
11. CFS – Container Freight Station.
12. FOA – Free on Air
13. DDU – Delivery Duty Unpaid.
14. POD – Port of Discharge.
15. POD – Proof of Delivery.
16. POL – Port of Landing.
17. POL – Port of Loading.
18. ETA – Estimate Time of Arrival.
19. ETD – Estimate Time of Departure.
20. GSP – Generalized System of Preferences.
21. MAWB – Master Air Way Bill.
22. HAWB – House Air Way Bill.
23. FFU – Forty Fit Equivalent
24. TFU – Twenty Fit Equivalent
25. PC – Pont Cash.
26. CO – Country of Origin
27. GOH – Garments on Hanger.
28. FPC – Flat Pack Container.
29. CPT – Carriage Paid to.
30. CY – Container Yard.
31. CBM – Cubic Metter.
32. NVOCC – Non Vassal Operating Common Carrier.
33. DDP – Delivery Duty Paid.
5.1.15 Garments Accessories
A garment is made not only from the apparel fabric but also various accessory items. Fabric is the
basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric of garment, the other materials are known
as garment accessories. These have to be chosen in such a way that they complement the outer
fabric both aesthetically, in terms of decoration, and practically, in terms of ensuring that the
garment performs as expected in its intended end use. Various kinks of accessories are used on
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garments, some are part of the garments such as buttons, zippers, interlining etc. while others are
used for decorating and enhancing the product appearance such as sequins, embroidery etc.
Types of Garment Accessories: Various kinks of accessories are used on garments, some are part of the garments such as
buttons, zippers, interlining etc. while others are used for decorating and enhancing the product
appearance such as sequins, embroidery etc.
Normally garment accessories can be classified in three ways:
1. Garment accessories/Basic accessories
2. Decorative accessories
3. Finishing accessories
Garment accessories/Basic accessories:
1. Thread
2. Zipper
3. Interlining
4. Button for example: Snap button, Plastic button, Metal button.
Fig: Garments Accessories
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5. Label: Main label, Size Label, Wash care label
6. Motif: Leather, Plastic, batchMetal
7. Pocketing fabric
8. Lining
9. Velcro
10. Elastic
11. Cord
12. Ribbon
13. Toggles
14. Rivet
15. Collar bone.
A short terms of basic accessories are given below:
Button:
A button is a small disc, typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order
to secure an opening, or for ornamentation.
Zipper:
A zipper or (zip fastener) is a popular device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric. It is
used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods, camping gear
(e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items.
Lining:
Lining is one kind of trimmings which is used underside of garments and use in next to skin.
Interlining:
Interlining is a layer of flannel fabric sewn in between the face fabric and the standard lining.
Interlining provides insulation and also adds a luxurious weight and softness, improves the drape
of the fabric, and protects fragile fabrics. It is a popular choice with silk draperies.
Garment Pattern:
The individual par of a garment which is shaped by hard paper is called pattern.
Working Pattern:
The patterns set which is used for sample making are called Working Pattern.
Marker:
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Marker is a large thin paper which contains shape of required pattern pieces or a particular style
of garments.
Fabric Spreading:
Spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker length and width.
Fabric Cutting:
Cutting is the process by which we can cut fabrics as per marker dimension with the help of
knife.
Bespoke Garments:
Bespoke Garments are made on the basis of individual clients and according to the individual’s
size and requirement.
Ready to Wear Garments:
Ready to wear garments is made on the basis of target common groups, according to size charts,
derived from statistical analysis.
Decorative Accessories:
1. Elastic tape
2. Buttonhole tape
3. Piping
4. Moiré ribbon
5. Seaming tape
6. Welted tape
7. Ribbed tape
8. Velvet ribbon
9. Bias binding
10. Stamped tape
11. Taffeta ribbon
12. Galloon
13. Fringes
14. Cords
15. Tassels
16. Rosettes
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17. Soutache
Short terms of decorative accessories are:
Trimmings: Those accessories which are used in sewing section are called trimmings. General
name for a patterned, woven or knitted ribbon in cotton, silk, wool, or man-made fiber.
Trimmings
Scalloping, Rick-rack: Narrow bowed, zigzag, or scalloped ribbon, plain or multi-colored in
cotton or man-made fibers for edge trimming of traditional costumes and children's wear.
Scalloping
Elastic tape: It is an elastic cotton strip. Highly elastic, flat, braided band containing rubber or
elastomeric fibers.
Elastic tape
Buttonhole tape: Broad elastic tape with buttonholes located in the center.
Buttonhole tape
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Piping: Cotton or linen plain woven ribbon about 1 cm wide, used as a tailoring aid for edges,
reveres, and collars.
Moiré ribbon: Cotton, silk or man-made fiber ribbon with a moiré pattern for hat bands and
bows.
Seaming tape: Cotton or viscose twill woven tape for stabilizing seams.
Welted tape: Cotton or viscose tape with a narrow welt at the edge.
Welted tape
Ribbed tape: Cotton, silk, or viscose tape with pronounced ribs for decoration or for
waistbands.
Velvet ribbon: Cotton, silk or viscose narrow-woven velvet; sensitive to handling.
Bias binding: Tape cut on the bias (diagonally) in various widths and materials, plain or
patterned, either flat or folded for use as binding.
Stamped tape: Interlining tape with pre-stamped marks to show sewing width and seam
allowance. Aids more efficient working.
Taffeta ribbon: Filament yarn ribbon, plain or check patterned, for ribbon bows.
Galloon: A particularly supple, plain or patterned braided ribbon for piping or binding in
outerwear.
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Galloon
Fringes: A narrow edging of projecting yarns which are not woven into the fabric, in viscose,
wool, or silk.
Cords: Circular braided materials of various thickness in viscose, cotton or synthetics. Used as
decoration for clothing, in household textiles, and in sporting goods.
Tassels: Expensive, hand-made articles in silk or viscose. A combination of fringes, cords, and
braids.
Rosettes: Decorative items used either alone or in combination with ornamental textiles.
Soutache: A mouldable flat braid with two ribs in silk or viscose used for formal clothes.
Pompons: Bunches of wool, silk or synthetics used as trimmings, hanging alone or in groups.
Finishing Accessories:
There are some finishing accessories:
1. Hang tag
2. Price tag
3. Plastic/ poly bag
4. Tissue paper
5. Carton
6. Scotch tape
7. PP belt
8. Tag pin
9. Plastic clip
10. Stiker
11. Butterfly
12. Collar insert
13. Back board
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14. Necks insert
Chapter 6 Commercial Department
6.1 L/C
6.1.1 Origin of the Term (L/C) Meaning:
The name Latter of Credit derives from the French word “accreditation”, a power to do something
which derives from the Latin “accreditivus” meaning trust.
A letter of credit is a conditional undertaking of payment.
A letter of credit is a document issued by a bank on behalf of an applicant (Buyer)
undertaking to make payment to a beneficiary (Seller) up to a stated amount of money
within a prescribed time limit and against some stipulated documents.
Two banks are involved in a letter of credit operation. Issuing banks is the bank of the
buyer and issues the credit and advising banks at the seller end.
SWIFT – Society for World Wide Interbank Financial Telecommunication.
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6.1.2 Major Types of Letter of Credit
Revocable L/C
Irrevocable L/C
Irrevocable and Confirmed L/C
6.1.3 Special Clauses
Transferable L/C.
Deferred/usance L/C.
At sight L/C
Red clause L/C.
Back to Back L/C.
Revolving L/C.
6.1.2.1 Revocable L/C
This types of L/C can be amended/cancelled by the applicant only without any prior notice to the
beneficiary. Here more risk is involved for the seller and at the same time buyer has more
flexibility.
6.1.2.2 Irrevocable L/C
This types of L/C can be amended/cancelled only with the agreement of all parties (Both buyer
and seller) concerned.
6.1.2.3 Irrevocable and Confirmed L/C
An L/C is said to be confirmed when another bank adds its additional confirmation (or guarantee)
to honour a complying presentation at the request or authorization of the issuing bank. It’s a
guaranteed L/C. Exporters has no risk.
6.1.3.1 Transferable L/C
A transferable credit is the one under which the exporter has the right to make the credit available
to one or more subsequent beneficiaries. Credits are made transferable when the original
beneficiary is a middleman and does not supply the merchandise himself and arrange them to be
sent to the buyer.
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6.1.3.2 Deferred /usance L/C
It is kind of credit that won’t be paid and assign immediately after checking the valid documents
but paying and assigning it requires and indicated duration which is accepted by both of the buyer
and seller.
6.1.3.3 At Sight L/C
It is a kind of credit that the announcer bank/issuing bank after observing the carriage documents
from the seller and checking all the documents immediately pays the required money
Money can be drawn from the beneficiary bank.
6.1.3.4 Red Clause L/C (Special Types)
In this kind of credit, the seller before sending the products can take the pre-paid or partial money
from the bank. The terms and condition are written by red ink.
6.1.3.5 Back to Back L/C
Back to Back L/C is that types of L/C which is backed by export L/C or master L/C.
6.1.3.6 Revolving L/C
When a master L/C can be used several times. Here quantity & amount will be revised only. Partial
shipment can be allowed.
6.1.4 Benefit of L/C
T.T – Telegraph Transfer
6.1.5 Document Required for Opening a L/C
Pro forma invoice
Trade Licence (up to date)
Import Registration Certificate (IRC) (up to date)
Buyer seller
1. Goods guaranty 1. Payment guaranty
2. No cash required 2. No cash required
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Taxpayer Identification Number
VAT Registration Certificate (Up to date)
Membership certificate of
Chamber membership certificate etc.
6.1.6 Check list of L/C
1. Beneficiary
2. Amount
3. Validity
4. Sellers bank
5. Type of payment availability
6. Desired documents
7. Notify address
8. Description of goods
9. Conformation order
6.1.7 L/C (Letter of Credit) Operation Chart.
Exporter Importer 1
3
7
15
5 8 9 6
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Exporter Importer
Explain of the chart
1. Exporter Importer: Negotiation.
2. Importer Importer Bank: Import license, L/C
3. Exporter: Commodity
4. Importer Bank Exporter Bank: L/C
5. Exporter Bank Exporter: L/C
6. Exporter Trade department, inspection, custom, insurance. Shipper: License,
Documents.
7. Exporter: Shopping
8. Exporter Exporter Bank: Documents
9. Exporter Bank Exporter: Payment
10. Exporter Bank Importer Bank: Documents
11. Importer Bank Exporter Bank: Payment
12. Importer Bank Importer: Notification
13. Importer Importer Bank: Payment
2 14
13
12
Trade
Department.
Inspection.
Customs.
Insurances.
Transportation.
11
10
4
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14. Importer Bank Importer: Documents
15. Importer Customs: Claiming.
6.1.8 Merchandise Presentation
Stage of packaging
5. Primary package individual garment
6. Secondary package
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7. Final Package
8.
6.1.9 Types of Assortment
1. Solid color sloid size
2. Solid color assorted size
3. Assorted color assorted size
4. Solid size assorted size
Chapter 7
7.1 Recommendation
“Woolen & Wool” is one of the fastest growing 100% export oriented sweater factory in
Bangladesh. We produce the best quality products and keep a long-term business relation with our
customers. “Wool & Wool” was incorporated in the year of 2003 with an overview of establishing
a state of art Ready –made sweater factory
Woolen & Wool are quite able to ensure brilliancy in their performance but still I think they can
improve their performance in following area.
They should need to avoid Bureaucracy in Decision Making for ensure faster service.
Main Mark
B.N.
P.O.
Sty.
Co.
c/r bank.
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Most of buyers of Woolen & Wool are only China, Japan and asia base. So they should
need to focus others develop countries as well like USA, UK, Australia UROPE Country
etc. to ensure more profitability.
Anontex should focus more on employees training.
They Should Improve Their HR Department.
The company needs to develop their survey System so that they can have frequent updates
about the markets.
Late in product delivery process is a concerning factor for Woolen & Wool. To solve this
problem Production unit should need be increase. So that the lead time can be reduced.
The company needs to adopt the modern style and trends. And this canpossible only if they
can enrich their marketing management sector.
Their Fire safety system is not good should improve that.
The use of modern technology should be given more emphasize. If they use more
infrastructures andmaintain them properly they can reduce the consumption time and cost
also.
7.2 Conclusion
As an employee merchandiser’s job is critical and risky. Because buyer’s satisfaction depends on
merchandiser’s working efficiency. If garments deliver the products according to the buyer’s
demand in due time, liable price and their recommended style then the buyers will come again,
because they are satisfied with the order. So Merchandiser is the 1st responsible person for this
satisfaction of buyers.
The Woolen & Wool has been taken all kinds of satisfactory work for buyers in all dealings. As
a result, their number of buyers is increasing in every year. From establishment to till today they
are successful and this trend is increasing. Mainly their buyers are from USA, UK, France, Canada,
Germany, Italy and Nederland’s, japan, China. So Woolen & Wool satisfied their customers or
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buyers by the help of their merchandiser and merchandising work for long run profit. Woolen &
Wool main goal is profit maximization in long run. Which they ensued in the past and will ensure
in future too if their effective merchandising working trends continue. Almost all things are good
in Woolen & Wool but still I have found few shortcomings during the period of doing internship
report of mine. I have tried to give some suggestion for improvement for this. I hope if they focus
on the suggestions and try to improve those than they not only improve their organization but also
can contribute the overall improvement of RMG sector.
Finally, I want to say that the doing an internship report on Woolen & Wool has been very
efficient for me. I have learned a lot of things from the vastly experienced executives of Woolen
& Wool which I will implement in my future corporate life.