idpms design development in sisal 2006
DESCRIPTION
TRANSCRIPT
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOPIN
SISAL CRAFT
16 th to 30th January 2006
atKuderu, Chamarajnagar Dist.
Sponsered by:The office of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)
Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India,West Block No.7, R.K.Puram,
New Delhi 110 066
Conducted by:IDPMS
440, 6th Cross, 7th Block,Jayanagar West,
Bangalore 560 082
CONTENTS
1. Introduction 1
2. Inauguration 2
3. About IDPMS 3
4. Sisal Fibre 5
5. Approach and Design intrevention 6
5. Design Workshop 8
6. The workshop 12
7. Products Developed 14
8. Participants 26
9. Conclusion 30
10. Recomendations 29
11. About Designer 31
12. Acknowledgements. 34
INTRODUCTION :
This is the fourth design workshop for the artisans in thisarea and there has been enough products made using thetraditional way and the skills in the traditional way.Thistime the effort has been to take the artisans with variedskills and produce some designs that would interest theartisans as well as the market.
In the previous workshops ,efforts are made to use thematerial using same technique of braiding, and revolvingaround the same products.The artisans also ask for change,and it has been considered for this workshop.
The artisans in this workshop have come from various skillbackground, apart from the usual sisal braids and ropes ,they also work with nylon and other fancy material, formaking bags and show peices.
The Products developed during the last Design development workshop
1
INAUGURATION :
The inaugural function was organised in the Kuderu Jr. Collegepremises, Kuderu Chamarajnagar Dist, on 16th Jan 2006, at11:30 am. The following were the people present at theopening function;
Mr. Ramakrishna suggestedthat the participants shouldlearn new skills and come upwith new products. He pointedout the support provided theGovernment to the artisans andthat People contribute to theeconomic growth of the region.
Mr. Seshaprasad spoke to theparticipants about the purposeof the design developmentworkshop. He insisted that theartisan group should takeadvantage of the opportunityprovided to them and work hardto make good products thatthey can sell well.
Mr. Shekar Singh spoke to theartisans and also advised themto work hard in these fifteendays and reap the benefitslater.
Mr. Shekar Singh, MNSEC, Mysore, Sri Ramakrishna, Principal,Jr. College Kuderu,Sri Vijay Kumar, Vice principal , Jr. collegeKuderu,Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS,Ms.Pushpalatha , IDPMS, Chamarajanagar and Designer Mr.Rajshekhar Narayan.
The inaugural function
2
ABOUT IDPMS:
IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for Development throughParticipation of Marginalized Sections, is committed to theeconomic growth of the rural poor.
IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as jointlyestablished by the Govt. Of Karnataka and the Govt. ofNetherlands. At the time it was known as Indo Dutch ProjectManagement Society. IDPMS worked with variousdevelopment projects situated in Karnataka, and workingthrough these projects, the organization gained experienceand considerable knowledge and helped into itstransformation into a resource organization. The array ofknowledge includes issues for sustainable livelihood, Womenempowerment, Information systems, Environment andconservation.
IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of Self help groupsfor the past 15 years. Mysore, Chamarajnagar, Bellary andBidar, Havery and Gadag districts have been covered underthe operations.
5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help Groups has beenformed in the guidance of IDPMS and presently more than200 artisans in the sisal fiber craft , in and around Kuderumolein Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered under thisumbrella.
The current activities of IDPMS are:
• Skill trainings and Design development activities inthe field of Handicrafts
• Training programme on Micro enterprise development,PRA, Personality Development etc,
3
• Guidance to Micro Enterprise,• Formation of SHG’s and their successful operations,• Strengthening of the local support agencies ;Gram
panchayat, ngo’s etc.• Networking of SHG’s,• Establishing access to formal credit organizations,• Training and orientation of banking Personnel.• Market related services; linkages, up scaling of
enterprises operations,• Gender sensitization programme,• Technology Development and Data Bank Services,• Income generation activities in craft areas, and other
activities.• Monitoring, Evaluation and Documentation,• Counciling for enterprise activities.
Apart from this IDPMS has started an initiative for marketingcalled “AARAMBH” that is begining of the collective effortsfor marketing of the produce of the rural artisan. Exhibitionslare conducted under this initiative and it has been a goodsupport for the producer groups.
Some of the products made by the craft groups
4
ABOUT SISAL FIBRE:
The Portuguese introduced agave in India in the 15th century.They are completely naturalized throughout the country.Sisal is grown in widely in India. It is small greenish grayhedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at the tip and growsup to a height of4-5 feet. These leaves yield valuable fibre.
Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale its Botanicalname is Agave sisalana and it is locally available inChamarajnagar dist.
Sisal fibre is a large genius of short stemmed, woody plantsbearing a rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves.About 275 spieces are distributed in tropical regions.Thepropagation happens by removing and re-rooting the suckers.
Sisal fibre is Avery strong, Lustrous natural fibre and cantake wear and tear very well. Sisal is the favorite world widefor floor coverings it is the most preferred natural fibre dueto its clean smooth& shiny surface texture The most knownapplication of sisal is ropes for local use.
Sisal is being extracted inAnanthpur (AP), Utharanchal, seoni(MP), Gokak (Karnataka) &Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal iscommonly used for marine ropes.cordage and twines.It’s also usedfor making hub cleaning fancybrushes used in bicycles.
Sisal fibre is available locally forRs 15-25 per kg. depending uponthe season and the marketrequirements.
5
DESIGN INTERVENTION:
The Design intervention for this group of artisans wasplanned with the past experience and the scenario in theSisal sector. All the groups can only think of braided products,therefore to bring about some change, it was decided thatwe would work with other techniques where less fibre isconsumed and more value is brought in to the product.
With the existing skill levels, the initial efforts were tointroduce the concept of fineness, use of spinning skills toproduce finer yarns with sisal fiber.
The products should mainly be for the local markets andexhibitions countrywide.
Various techniques likeweaving, coiling and stitchingcan be put together in order toget a novelty.
The use of the availabletechnology for spinning of sisal,and different method ofproducing yarns would add morevalue to the end products.
The techniques like layering,stitching and using the fibretexture to most appealing uses, use of good colourcombinations and new lifestyleproducts would be the directionfor new products.
6
The artisans are having a skill background of rope makingtherefore can produce a variety of different ropes and cordsthat make the raw material of a range of fine and intricateproducts.
The demand for sisal fiberproducts is ever growing in ourcounty and it would be bestto be working on the kind ofProducts that move fast andare required in good volumes.
The blend of Sisal with other materials like Banana bark ,which is abundant in the neighborhood, bamboo, Plasticrope which is common packing material, and cotton yarns.All such explorations are also a part of this workshop.
7
Workshop in progress
THE WORKSHOP:
In the Workshop varioustechniques were used and manyof them yeilded good results;
Fine Yarn making:
Using the knotted fibre in multipleply a fine yarn can be made byusing a rope spinner . This yarnhas the strength and finish for usein high value products like wovenmaterial, floor and other interiorwoven fabrics.
Fibre Stitching:
Using the fibre waste, the fibresare layed on a news paper sheet ,evenly spread , covered withanother paper and then stitchedover, with the help of sewingmachine. This makes a goodsurface useful for many variedapplications.
Fibre knotting :
This is the technique of getting athin continuous long length byknotting the fibres together usinga weavers knot. The continuouslong length then can be used forproducing a fine yarn that can laterbe used for weaving, knitting orany such applications
8
Fibre forms:
As the name suggests, we tooka balloon and over it wrappedthe fibre and pasted with bindingresin. This gave a perfect shapeand form, and this techniquewas extended in getting othershapes also. Using plasticvessels , plastic sheet and resin,creating various forms that canbe stable , and also buildingshapes around frames. Thistechnique was extremelysuccessful as the production isof high value and cost is low.
Crochet:
Crochet using the dyed sisalfibre to form laces and motifsfor making bags and mats andother utility items , crochet onthe wooden frames were done.This technique seemed to workvery well and produced goodresults.
The traditional technique ofmaking rope by hand twistingwas also used in the workshop.The raw material of the bags andbaskets was made by thistechnique only.
9
Dyeing :
Using the direct dyes sixshades were produced for theproducts and these shadeswere developed according tothe colour trends. The naturalpalette has been the basis ofthe shades and there are deepearth colours along with somemineral accents.
Basket weaving :
The technique of using framesfor weaving stable forms , wastried out and found workingvery well, specially with thefine yarns.
Paper backing:
This is tried out to providesome stability to the fibrelayers that are stitched tomake bags and lamps. Firstlysome paper pulp is taken in abig tub and then it is pouredover a readily stitched layer,the resulting deposition offibre. This is dried and is readyfor use.
10
Square frames and round framesare taken and using the finetechnique of ply-twist-weave , avery good finish is achieved.Though time taking, thistechnique is good for making avery durable, strong and finelyfinished form.
Embroidery:
Embroidery with sisal fibre on thenon woven , stitched fibre layer,with fine rope for use in bags andaccessories.
Loom Weaving:
Using the small loom, and fourshafts, weaving was done onplastic warp , crating aninteresting fabric for bags andmats. Further using sisal yarnproduced on Medilary Charkha ,and Banana bark rope, sisal andother yarns, Interesting fabricswere woven for use in bags,lamps and other interiorapplications.
11
WORKSHOP PHOTOES :
12
WORKSHOP PHOTOES :
13
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
1 12”
OVAL LAMP
2 10”DOME LAMP
14
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
LEAF LAMP3
4
6” X 18”
7”BAMBOO LAMP
15
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
5
6
6” x 12”
6” x 9”
SQUARE LAMP
NET LAMP
16
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
7
8
11”
12 x 16”
DRUM LAMP
AUTUMN LAMP
17
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
9 4”LOOFA
4”BODY SCRUB10
18
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
4” X 3”
2” XMOBILE POUCH
SQURE SCRUB11
12 19
7”
12” X 18”
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
BOWL13
TABLE MATS14 20
15 3” X8” X6”
16 2.5” X 7”X 6”
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
SPRING BAG
FOREST BAG
21
17 11”
18 1 1”
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
LEAF BOWL
CROCHET BAGS
22
19 9” to 11”
NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
FIBRE BAGS
NEWSPAPER STAND4”x12”x18”20
23
OTHER NEW PRODUCTS DEVELOPED :
24
COSTING OF THE DEVELOPED PRODUCTS :
No. Name of the Product Cost
1 Oval lamp Rs. 50.00
2 Dome Lamp Rs.100.00
3 Leaf lamp Rs.150.00
4 Bamboo Lamp Rs. 88.00
5 square lamp Rs.100.00
6 Net lamp Rs.120.00
7 Drum Lamp Rs.115.00
8 Autumn Lamp Rs.200.00
9 Loofah Rs. 30.00
10 Body Scrub Rs. 25.00
11 Square scrub Rs. 25.00
12 Mobile pouch Rs. 30.00
13 Bowl Rs. 42.00
14 Table mats Rs.120.00
15 Spring bag Rs.150.00
16 Forest Bag Rs.150.00
17 Crochet bags Rs.120.00
18 Leaf bowl Rs. 85.00
19 Fibre bags Rs. 85.00
20 Newspaper stand Rs.158.00
25
s.no. Name of the artisan Village Caste
1 Sakamma w/o Javaravsetty Tenkalmole OBC2 Basavarajama w/o S.R.setty Tenkalmole OBC3 Chandramma w/o Basavaraju Tenkalmole OBC4 Chikmahadevamma w/o Nanjasetty Tenkalmole OBC5 Mahdevamma w/o Rachasetty Tenkalmole OBC6 Shivamma w/o Madshetty Tenkalmole OBC7 Nagamma w/o B.D.setty Tenkalmole OBC8 Pathamma w/o Hanumanthanaik Tenkalmole OBC9 S.Madamma w/o Mahadevasetty Tenkalmole OBC10 Basamma w/o Sanmadsetty Tenkalmole OBC11 Sidhamma w/o Nagasetty Tenkalmole OBC12 Puttabasamma w/o Doddasetty Tenkalmole OBC13 Pushpamba w/o Srikantaswamy Kuderu OBC14 Sheela w/o Shanmugaswmy Kuderu OBC15 Pavitra w/o Shivanagappa Kuderu OBC16 Latha w/o Basavaraju Kuderu OBC17 Bramharamba w/o Chikabasavanna Kuderu OBC18 Kantaveni w/o Nagasundar Kuderu OBC19 Susila w/o Prakasha Kuderu OBC20 Siddhamma W/o Ramesha Kuderumole OBC21 Shivamma w/o Mahadevasetty Badagalamole OBC22 Doddamma w/o Sidhasetty Badagalamole OBC23 Sanamma w/o Sidhasetty Badagalamole OBC24 Chndramma w/o Mahesha Badagalamole OBC25 Rajamma w/o Mahadevasetty Badagalamole OBC26 Putamma w/o Puttasetty Badagalamole OBC27 Sakamma w/o Madasetty Badagalamole OBC28 Manjula w/o Nagendraswamy Kuderu Ling*29 Sashirekha w/o Govraja Kuderu SC30 Shivamma w/o Malliah Kuderu SC
PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:
* - Lingayata
26
PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:
Sakamma,Basavarajamma,Chandramma,Chikmahadevammaand Mahadevamma
Shivamma, Nagamma, Pathamma, S Madamma andBasamma
Sidhamma, Puttabasamma, Pushpamba, Sheela andPavitra
27
PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:
Putamma, Sakamma,Manjula,Sasirekha and Shivamma
Shivamma, Dodamma, Sanamma, Chanramma andRajamma
Latha, Bramharamba,Kantaveni,Susila and Siddhamma
28
1. The artisans are from the background of rope making,and therefore it would be more appropriate to developand refine the skills of spinning, fine twine making forthese artisans.
2. The demand for hand spun twines is good in thedomestic and the export market; therefore it wouldbe good if twines and yarns could be the end products.
3. The medilary charkha is quite useful in twine and finecord making, and all the artisans should be trained onit.
4. Sisal fibre lends itself very well to weaving and basicfloor covering structures should be developed alongwith the fabrics for accessories on simple looms.
5. The skill development programmes conducted shouldbe focused and the products from the workshop shouldbe taken to be taught to the artisans.
6. Some products from the design workshop should beselected for bulk production and artisans should beadvised to produce a stock of the designs at least 24pieces each design. This would ensure that theproducts are tested in the market and the groupshave sufficient stock of products whenever any fair isthere.
7. There needs to be continual market support programmethat helps the artisans to produce what market needsand have a continuous flow of work.
Recommendations:
29
CONCLUSION :
As it happens every time, the end of the workshop time; allthe participants felt that there should have been more timewith them.
Many new products and techniques were evolved. The newpossibilites with the fibre and getting away from thetraditional conversion technique of braiding; brought inmore hopes.
The participants were eager to do more designs and werelooking forward to taking orders and taking up productionfor the designs done during the workshop. Some of theparticipants were wanting to learn the basic yarn preparationand dyeing so that the dependecy for the prepared rawmaterial is not there for them.
Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan (Consultant Designer), Mr.Seshaprasad, cluster manager, IDPMS, MS. Pushpalatha, ,addressed the participants and encouraged them on theirefforts.
On the whole , the workshop was a success once again andhas brought in new possibilities in Sisal craft. It is indeedthe begininng ...
The concluding day Participant’s Interaction
30
ABOUT THE DESIGNER :RAJSHEKHAR NARAYAN87/133, Govindappa road, Basavanagudi .Bangalore 560 004, KarnatakaE-Mail : [email protected] : 080 51203950Mobile 9448119950
Working with design; especially with woven textiles &handicrafts,. likes to work with material and surfacetextures for the woven fabrics, design and productdevelopment in Handicrafts, a special interest in visualmerchandising, documentation, digital cataloging,networking and market development
EMPLOYMENT HISTORY
National Institute of Design BangaloreCoordinator (1998 - 2001)Responsible for managing the office, identifying the problem areas in theregion ; proposing and conducting design development workshops andtraining programmes, working with the handicraft sector and leading thecraft design activities, developing new contacts, skill and productdevelopment workshops, and business for design consultancy
Silktex Ltd. BangaloreDesign Manager (1997 - 1998)Responsible for conceptualising collections of furnishings and dressmaterials, overall management and coordination of design studio.Supervision of sampling on Dobby and Jacquard looms, new developments,customer needs and day to day production requirements.
JJSpectrum Silks Limited CalcuttaDesign Manager (1996 - 1997)Responsible for development of new design collections, standardising wovenqualities, coordination and management of the design studio, supervisingsampling, Market and trend analysis for the silk furnishings and dressmaterial market.
JJ Exporters Ltd. CalcuttaChief Designer (1993 - 1996)Responsible for conceptualising design collections of silk dress materials,overall coordination of developments.
31
Orion Corporation BangaloreCoordinator sourcing and development (1992 - 1993)
Smilee Fashions BangaloreDesigner (1991 - 1992)In charge of design and development of dress material using naturaldyes andHand block printing and indigenous craftsmanship
EDUCATION
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN, AhmedabadPost Graduate Diploma in Textile Design 1991National Institute of Design is Asia’s one of the premier institute fordesign education. The three year post graduate course included surfacedesign, design and techniques of woven and knitted fabrics, craftdocumentation and design, ornamentation techniques, computer aideddesign, photography, graphic design, practical experience through industrialplacements formed an integral part of the diploma.
Indian Institute of Handloom Technology VaranasiDiploma in Handloom Technology 1988Course curriculum included technology of weaving, dyeing, printing andfinishing. Practical experience on Handloom, powerloom, dyeing andprinting was integral part of the course.
Syed Burhanuddin silver jublee Quadaria College,BurhanpurBachelor of Science 1985 (two years)The two-year course had physics, chemistry and Mathematics as themajor Subjects and English as first language.
SKILLS
Weaving, jacquard design, Jacquard weaving, print designs, furnishingdesign, made-ups design, silk fabrics design, sourcing of fabrics, samplepresentation (header, folders, display etc.), visual Merchandising, samplephotography, hand and machine embroidery, interior space design,handicraft design, curriculum for skill and design workshops, Documentationand teaching.Working Knowledge of SOPHIS and NEDGRAPHICS (weavingsoftware),PageMaker, Photoshop, Coral Draw, Photo impact, MS office,Dreamweaver and Flash for graphics, communication and product design.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER :
32
ABOUT THE DESIGNER :
Since year 2001 various handicraft design development projects havebeen undertaken :
• Survey of Natural Fibers in Kerala and Tamilnadu; an intensive plannedsurvey in the two states, a study in the Philippines and a exhaustivedocumentation• Design and development of Sisal Fiber products; for IDPMS workingwith the craft groups in Mysore and Chamarajanagar.• Design development for Bamboo products: For CARD, Angamali 2002• Design and development of Natural fibre product at Kanyakumari:RDTDC 2001• Design and development of Pillow lace Products for SEDA,Aalaghaimandapam 2001• Design and development of Screwpine products: Talayolaparambu 2002• Design and development of Palm stem and other natural fibres, forAnavoor mahila Samajam, Anavoor – 2002• Design development workshop for Coir and other natural fibres for CoirBoard, CCRI, Kalavoor, 2003• Design and development of Palm leaf product: for Chaitanya JyothiNellore 2005• Design and development of Fabric Painting: at Naidupeta for ChaitanyaJyothi Welfare Society Nellore 2005• Design and development workshop for Sisal and other natural fibres; atKuderu, Chamarajnagar, for IDPMS, Bangalore 2005• Design of Screwpine products for KIDS, Kottapuram, Jan 2005• Design and development of Jute weaving for RDS Murugod, Dec 2005• Design Development for bamboo products, RDTDC Mysore Nov 2005• Design development for Leather puppets at Nimmalakunta, for RES,Hindupur 2005• Design development for Cane and Bamboo, at Mysore , for RDTDC, techwing, Nov 2005• Design development for Tanjavur art Plates at Tanjavur, RDTDC,Bangalore Jan 2006
Apart from the consultancies, teaching assignments are a part of thework: visiting Faculty at NID Ahmedabad and Srishti in Bangalore.
Languages known: Hindi, English, Kannada and Bengali.
33
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS :
Designer : Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan
Design associates: Mr. Karthikeyan B
MNSEC, Mysore: Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D.Mr. Shekar Singh,
NABARD,Chamarajnagar: Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM
IDPMS :
Mr. S. SadanandMs. GeethaMr. Sesha prasadMs. PushpalathaMr. NagarajMr. ManoharMr. Siddhappa
And all the others at IDPMS .
34
