Iceland 2013Langjökull Expedition

The planning and inspiration for our trip was a television programme made by Julia Bradbury,who herself did a four day hike across the interior of Iceland. The scenery looked special andthe challenging terrain and environment looked inviting to anyone who enjoys walking here inthe United Kingdom.

Our Officer Commanding Flight Lieutenant Pauline Petch went to work and managed to makecontact with Trek who offered a four day hike across a Glacier as an alternative. Expecting verylittle enthusiasm for the idea she presented it to the cadets and staff to receive an excited ‘yesplease’. So with an excited group full of expectation her next challenge was to gain approvalfrom the Air Cadet organisation for the expedition. Those staff and cadets that put their namesforward for the trip went into a highly active period of fund raising.

Central approval for the venture was granted and the day of departure arrived and as weloaded the minibus with our kit there was a strange mixture of excitement and trepidation asto what we had let ourselves in for. And in less than 24 hours we would be facing the easternslopes of Langjökull.

Arriving in Iceland at the Reykjavik Downtown hostel at 01-30 we grabbed a few hours sleep.Up again at 06-00 we rose to re-pack our expedition bags against a kit list provided by Trek.The list contained a requirement for three pairs of gloves and should have given us a clue as towhat was ahead. A good hearty breakfast was taken at 07-00 and the Trek team arrived tocollect us at 07-30. We were introduced to our two guides Gìsli Gudmundson (the lead guide)and Svavar Olafsson. Both are qualified and experienced glacier guides and have extensiveexperience as members of the Icelandic mountain rescue team.

We arrived at the Trek office to fit boots, skis and pack our companions and friends for thenext four days the pulkas. We went through a dry run of erecting tents, loaded up thetransport, used a toilet for one last time and started the 2 hour 30 minute drive to the startingpoint of our expedition.

On the way to the Glacier our guides gave us a running commentary on the history andgeography and geology of the area. The scenery was very different to anything we had seenbefore.

It was on arriving at the start point that the scale of the challenge in front of us becameapparent. There stood a 500m high wall of ice to be climbed before we could set up camp forthe first night. We made our lunch and at this point became somewhat aware of the bitingcold wind. It only took a few seconds before we had to dive onto a glove as it tumbled away atspeed. A timely reminder of how disciplined we would need to be if we wanted to completethe journey without incident. Whist we sat there we watched large 4x4s tackle the hill. Evenwith their big tyres and large engines they were getting stuck half way. What hope did wehave?

Trek Land Rover and Trailer

The line gets stretched aswe tackle the first climbon day 1

For most of us this would be our first experience of Nordic cross country skiing and for sometheir very first experience of skiing of any type. The first fall occurred no more than 5m fromthe start. Was this a warning of what was to come?

The Pulkas (our friends) weighed up to 60kg and each team of three pulled two between them.We persevered for the next three hours zigzagging our way up the steep slope, made worse bythe strong head wind. We would stop every few minutes to allow someone to get back to theirfeet. It felt like one step forwards, two steps back. If there had been any doubts before, it wasnow clear we had a huge individual and team challenge in front of us.

Making slow progress we climbed to 1180m to set up camp, a little short of our target, buteveryone was tired from the flight and exhausted from the climb. The depth of snow on the iceat this point was only 200mm making the process even more difficult.

Once our tents were pitched the team split - some building a 1m high snow wall for protection(a tough call with so little snow) from the prevailing wind, whist others boiled up water fromsnow for hot drinks and cooking dinner. Any spare bodies set about digging a hole in the iceand building another wall. This would serve as our toilet. This was really wild camping.

After cooking dinner and melting even more snow for drinks in the morning we were in oursleeping bags for 22-00. However that night we were privileged and treated to an amazingsunset and views over the countryside below as we went to our beds.

Day 1 Sunset

Views over Western Iceland as we climb the Glacier on Day 1

Again for most of us this would be our first experience of living and sleeping in temperatureswell below zero and was a shock to the system and for some their morale.

Flying Officer Chris Barrett was first to wake and had everyone up at 06-00. Everything bothinside and outside the tents was frozen solid. The first job of the day was to boil even morewater. This would be used for breakfast (muesli, hot chocolate powder and hot water) andfilling water bottles for the day. We packed our lunches which consisted of stiff partially frozenbread and paté or whatever you chose from cold meats and cheese and packed up the campready to depart.

Before departure we held our first morning parade, much to the amusement of our guides, butit would not be long before they actively engaged. Gìsli gave us our instructions for the dayand at 10-00 we left camp for the top of the glacier and camp two. Our target for the day wasto climb to just over 1350m and a distance of 8km.

For many reading this it would appear a small target for the day. But be under no illusion day 2would be physically demanding and tiring. At any one time two thirds of the team had to haulthemselves, a 60 litre day sack and a 60kg pulka up a steep slope whilst wearing skis and with ahead wind. This was made even harder by having to haul the pulkas over and through the deeprutted tracks left by the 4x4s. Early on the weather was overcast but once the sun was up thecloud cleared treating us all to some fantastic views.

Camp Night 1 Start of Day 2

Some readers may be familiar with the Icelandic hobby of driving big 4x4s up onto the glaciersand this area is no exception. Being the Easter weekend they were out in force and the glacierwas very busy with 4x4s and snow scooters.

The surprise to us was that they kept stopping and taking photographs of us trudging in a lineup the glacier. Only the first night six trucks stopped surrounding the camp for twentypassengers to disembark and start taking photographs of us setting up tents and cooking. Ourguides informed us that Icelandic people did not tend to do what we were doing and most hadnever spent a night out under canvas on a glacier. I guess they quietly thought we were nuts,maybe we were but this was already turning into a great adventure and one we will rememberfor a life time.

During the day as we chatted to Gìsli and Svavar they were really interested in understandingmore about the Air Cadet Organisation. They were already openly talking about howimpressed they were with the discipline, organisation and teamwork shown by the cadets.Before the end of the trip they would both go on to say that the Cadets were one of theeasiest and best groups they had lead across the glacier. If there was ever another Air Cadetgroup booked to complete the expedition they would without hesitation volunteer to be theguides. A great testament to the Cadets, parents, staff and the Air Cadet Organisation.

Most of us on the trip under-estimated the need to remove layers before starting the physicalexertion each day, most being afraid of the biting cold. By the time most of us understood, theroutine odours would be somewhat unpleasant with young men who had worked physicallyhard all day in need of a shower. We also under-estimated just how frequently and how muchwe needed to drink to stay hydrated. This is all a valuable lesson for future expeditions.

We arrived at camp two at 16-30 some 1330m above sea level and set up camp. The processtaking far less than the two hours of the previous night as the routines were now familiar andthe snow conditions were much better. The extra altitude and clear conditions were a warningof a very cold night to come.

Views on morning of day 2

Again the group got snow melting for dinner and hot drinks, a tea being most welcome towarm you through. The food available to eat was very varied from high calorie freeze driedmeals to smoked salmon the CO’s favourite. By the end of the week she had managed tobarter for all the smoked salmon in return for bourbon biscuits. Why so easy, because in theirwords the boys ‘did not know how to cook the salmon’.

Although day 2 was tough the morale had audibly and visually improved once we hadconquered the steep climb. Each camp was set up ensuring that the back of the tents faced theprevailing wind. The area was then flattened by using skis. The guides were most impressed atthe standard of timing and co-ordination between the Cadets who completed the task in quick

Camp night 2

Flight Lieutenant Pauline Petcheating her smoked salmon

time (but not in step). The next job is that 2 in each team set up the tent using every availableski, ice axe or ski pole to fix the tent down and to tension the guy ropes. And the remainder ofthe team build the wall and toilet. On this occasion the wall quickly rose to well over 1.5m toprovide some good protection. We were learning fast. The Cadets built a multi toilet blockwhich also impressed, but the piste de resistance for this camp was the garages for the pulkas.They had too much energy, we had not worked them hard enough.

We woke to a white out on the third morning and but for a couple of clear spells visibility wassignificantly reduced for much of the day. This would prove a very challenging day to stay ontrack and reach our third and final overnight camp site.

Again the routine progressed quickly with breakfast, hot water and breaking down campachieved ready for departure by 09-00. Parade was interesting as we included some drill andinvited our guides to take part. Credit to them, they quickly picked it up and managed to stayon their feet more than can be said by one of the Cadets.

In this bleak environment there are no insects and very little sign if any of vegetation. Theguides believe we had been followed by an artic fox. The tracks were visible but no confirmedsighting was made.

Day 3 should be a longer day with the requirement to complete 11km. Our confidence andskills on the skis had improved and our speed increased significantly meaning that we werelikely to make our intended camp site by 15-00. Both Gìsli and Svavar were concerned at theshort day but after discussions over lunch we agreed they should teach us some survivaltechniques for use in this type of environment. We would therefore set up camp and have atwo hour session before dinner.

As we arrived at the camp site for night three it began to snow. This was motivation to get thecamp up in record time. Everyone had a hot drink and something hot to eat before we tookadvantage of a lull in the snow to have our training.

Gìsli and Svavar set the scene that we had lost some of out tents in high winds and needed toget a casualty out of the severe weather. They promoted what we would know as the goldenhour after which time an individual has less than a twenty percent chance of survival in thesecold temperatures.

We were firstly given a demonstration on how to dig snow quickly and efficiently and then seta task to dig two snow holes. The first would take a casualty and one other person long ways,the other would take two people head first into a tunnel. The work was exhausting and quicklyeveryone, despite the cold, was stripping off layers as their temperature rose with the effort.

The first snow hole to be nearly completed was checked by Gìsli who required it to be made alittle deeper. At this point it was Flying Officer Barrett’s turn to dig and whilst doing this theroof of the snow hole collapsed covering him with snow, much to the amusement of theCadets. Our third task was to make a shelter out of what we had on the pulkas. Very quickly ashelter was completed using tarps and ski poles to cover a hole dug 1m deep in the snow.Everyone went off feeling they had learnt that little something that could one day save a life.

After dinner FS Oakes and Cpl Savage got to setting up and building the toilet. An extravagantand creative structure it would turn out to be. For the first time since leaving Reykjvik we couldsit down and carry out what ever we needed to do. The downside being a icy cold backside.But even the guides used this creation and suggested they might use the design again in thefuture. There was even a toilet roll holder.

As 21-30 approached everyone was just getting ready for bed, but being the 1st April the daycould not go without an April fool. With Gìsli and Svavar we decided that the expeditiontraining should continue with a lesson on hygiene and washing in sub zero temperatures.

A parade was called getting both the female Cadets out of their beds. When formed up, Svavardiscussed how we should keep ourselves clean. He stripped off his shirt and asked for twovolunteers. Without hesitation Fs Oakes and Cpl Savage stripped off their upper clothing andbegan as instructed to rub snow all over their upper body whilst the rest of us laughed our coldsocks off.

Flight Sergeant Oakes and CorporalSavage follow Svavar’s lead andwash in the snow on the 1st of April

Two laps of the camp site at a jog and everyone was warm, ready for a dry pair of socks andthen bed. If nothing else, make sure you go to bed in dry socks if you want to be warm.Overnight some 6cm of snow fell with the effect of raising the temperature by one or twodegrees. Again everyone was up at 06-00 on the dot. However despite the warmer nighteverything was frozen solid. Thawing boots and gloves by wearing them is a push for even themost hardy amongst us. Trying to do it with blistered tired feet is even worse. But you quicklylearn to adapt and learn the tricks of the trade. The solution being a water bottle filled withboiling water in each boot for twenty minutes before you put them on.

We had woken to glorious sunshine and blue skies. The views were the best yet. A great startto what would be a great final day to our expedition.

The group were up and packed in record time with parade at 08-15 ready for an 08-30 start.Gìsli and Svavar were taken aback and left somewhat behind in their preparations. Theyinquired how the Cadets were ready so early, to be informed that they had prepared lunch thenight before saving them time. They both agreed this was a lesson in preparation and planningfor them to take away.

After some final group photographs and a parade taken by Svavar we left camp for the finishsome 14km away.

Sunrise day 4

The first hour we moved faster than we had on any other occasion and we covered the groundquickly. But there was a shock for the system not far away. The descent from the glacier wasto prove more difficult that the ascent on day one. The pulkas would no longer be your friendand refused to stop as they grew a mind of their own. Everyone pulling a pulka was taken offtheir feet by a run away pulka hitting them in the ankle and taking them off their feet. Youwould end up on your back head first down the hill or on the pulka itself. For some this provedvery difficult and we resulted to walking leading our pulkas like a dog down the slopes.

On slopes greater than thirty degrees there is an increased risk of crevasses, so our guides hadto pick our route carefully to avoid any risks of a fall. This zigzagging added a significantdistance to the total for the day. The memory for all of us will be the CO in her downhill skierposition racing down the final slope. Skill or luck we will let you make up your own minds.

After tackling the steepest slope we stopped for lunch. The Co proceeded to finish off hersmoked salmon while the rest of us dined out on cheese rolls. Before we set off, Gìsli the leadguide gave the Cadets a short talk on how the Glacier was formed and how it became plasticunder pressure resulting in it moving down the valley. Langjökull glacier is the second largest inIceland and depending on what measure you use it is possibly the second largest in Europe.Langjökull (Long glacier) is 950 sq km and reaches a height of 1450m. At its deepest the ice is580m thick giving a total volume of 195 cubic km.

Flight Lieutenant Pauline Petchspeeding down the final descent.

Where’s the Finish?

The views on day 4

Gìsli was our lead guide . He was on his Easter break as he is currently studying Geography atUniversity. He celebrated his 29th Birthday on the 31st March. He commented on how he couldnot have wished to be anywhere else other than on the expedition with the Cadets at thatmoment. He was having a great time and a good break from his studies.

Svavar is a full time guide employed by Trek. He had already completed his studies but had juststopped training as an electrician over the winter in favour of guiding.

To the Cadets’ credit, our guide said they could not picture any fifteen / sixteen year oldIcleander undertaking the trip.

Gìsli Gudmundson

Svavar Olafsson

We built up a very close relationship with both Gìsli and Svavar with most evenings beingoccupied by informative discussions interspersed with a large dose of humour.

What happens if you get run over by a car? You get tyred

What happens if you chase a car? You get exhausted

Our final leg on skis began initially downhill but the last 2km were not to be the downhillfinished we hoped for. The climb was equally as steep as day one. Would it finish off theCadets?

Before we embarked on the final hurdle we stopped for one last group photograph with theEnsign and Trek company flag.

Morale was now very high and the Cadets did not struggle anywhere near as much as day oneand we arrived at our RV at 14-00 exactly as planned.

Here we were met by the Trek Company 4x4 landrover with a trailer. The Pulkas were loadedand 6 members of the team jumped aboard for a quick 3km journey down to the waitingminibus. Here the pulkas were unloaded and the land rover returned for the rest of the team.

When we were all finally back together we started the 2 hour drive back to Reykjavik but onthe way planned to stop off at Gusfoss falls and a Geysir.

The falls were visible from a full 2km away as water spray lifted into the air in huge plumes.We stopped off at the visitors centre and most of us made use of a real toilet for the first timein four days. The falls are truly spectacular and Gìsli informed the group of all the volumes ofwater going over the falls every minute. He also detailed how electricity is produced fromhydroelectric and hydrothermal power stations. Hot water pumped to Reykjavik would onlylose two degrees Celsius over the entire journey.

The falls consist of two steps one 14m high the other 18m high and in places the gorge is up to70m deep. The falls are considered to be the most beautiful in Iceland and are a Nationalmonument.

After the now obligatory group photograph in front of Gullfoss falls we boarded our transportready for a short ride to our next stop to see an active Geysir.

The Geysir in Haukadalur is the most famous in the world giving rise to us using the termGeysir to describe the natural phenomenon. Since an earthquake in the 1980’s only Geysirssmaller brother Strokkur is active and spouts water every 5 to 7 minutes, a spectacular sightnone the less.

We now completed our journey back to Reyljavik firstly stopping off at the Trek office to dropoff kit and collect our luggage left with them for safe keeping. We arrived at the Hostel at 19-00 and were immediately welcomed with a hot meal of beef lasagne and green salad. Afterdinner we went back to work unpacking all our kit so that it could be aired and dried ready for

Gullfoss Water Falls Strokkur

the trip home. Some of the kit had been provided by the Army via the loan pool. Finally beforebed we all took a very much needed hot, hot shower.

Before we had left home for the expedition, the Flight Lieutenant’s Father had given her asolar powered camping lamp he had found at a car boot sale. The lamp has a picture of anaircraft on it so he thought that it would be appropriate for us to have it. After some jokes backat the Squadron, Corporal Jack Savage’s Father challenged him to carry the lamp throughoutthe expedition. To his credit the lamp went everywhere with him. And the last laugh was his.At least he could see what he was doing in the now infamous 42F snow toilets.

We were treated to a welcome late breakfast at 08-00. Some then went for a walk before wewere collected at 12-00 for a trip to the Blue Lagoon. After a 40 minute drive from the hostelwe could see the steam rising from the lagoon against the background of the mountains. Asyou turn into the complex you are immediately struck by the colour of the milky blue waterand the strong smell of sulphur. After changing and taking a shower you leave the building intothe somewhat fresh air and naturally make a quick bee line for the pool.

The male cadets were the first into the lagoon and soon left the staff to wait for the femaleCadets who turned up some time later. We then went in search of the rest of the group. Wehad not moved far before Sergeant Wilson screams “I’ve stood on a jelly fish”. What hope isthere, it was just the silica mud in the bottom of the lagoon.

The Geysir Strokkur

We soon found the boxes of silica mud . We covered our faces and let it dry as instructed.Flying Officer Barrett was accused of using twice as much as anyone else due to his largeforehead. Beauty therapy for lads you might ask? Be under no illusion, after our efforts overthe previous days this was heaven.

Dinner for the rest of our time in Iceland would be taken at a local café and comprised of soupfollowed by a main. The quality of this food was high and the soups especially tasty. Thetiredness was catching up with us all and by 22-00 all were tucked up in bed taking a welldeserved rest.

Lying in bed gave us time to reflect on what had just been undertaken and achieved. Clearly ithad been an outdoor adventure like no other we had completed before. Would we be giventhe chance do it again? For most, a definite ‘yes.’ Would we recommend Trek to others?Without hesitation, ‘yes.’ Should other Squadrons or Wings consider the trip in the future? Aresounding, ‘yes go for it.’

Our next day was filled with a short trip to ride Icelandic ponies and also visit the localmuseum, leaving the final day for the tourist bit and shopping.

We had left home with eight Cadets with varying levels of life skills and experience. The scaleof the challenge they had just completed cannot fail to have an impact on them as individuals.Some had clearly risen to the physical challenge and excelled, showing true signs of leadershipand teamwork. For some the mental battle had been equal to and greater than the physicalchallenge and for these individuals we should never again hear them use the phrase ‘I can’t doit’. They just had and in style.

The Team

Lead GuideAssistant Guide

Flight Lieutenant Pauline PetchFlying Officer Chris BarrettFlight Sergeant Sam OakesSergeant Charlotte WilsonSergeant Alex StapletonCorporal Jack SavageCadet Thomas RichardsonCadet Lauren SimpsonCadet Troy BrownCadet George Vandenburg

Approximate route shown in red