ice cream

The story of one of our favourite foods,

with original recipes by Fiona Egerton-Warburton

Hello...

Click on the video to see an introduction by Fion Egerton-Warburton.

How it began...

Where did ice cream first feature in history?

Well, in the Persian Empire, people would pour grape-juice concentrate over snow, in a bowl, and eat this as a treat. Frozen mixture of milk and rice was used in China around 200 BC. The Roman Emporor Nero (37–68 AD) had ice brought from the mountains and combined it with fruit toppings. These were some early chilled delicacies. The Arabs used milk as a major ingredient in the production of ice cream and sweetened it with sugar rather than fruit juices. It was flavoured with rosewater, dried fruits and nuts.

Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat asserts, in her History of Food, that "the Chinese may be credited with inventing a device to make sorbets and ice cream. They poured a mixture of snow and saltpetre over the exteriors of containers filled with syrup, for, in the same way as salt raises the boiling-point of water, it lowers the freezing-point to below zero.“

And in the sixteenth century, the Mughal emporers used relays of horsemen to bring ice from the Kindu Kush to Delhi, where it was used in fruit sorbets.

An ice house in Abarkuh, Iran.

Arrival in Europe

When Italian duchess Catherien De‘Medici married the Duke of Orleans (Henry 11 of France) in 1533, she is said to have brought with her to France some Italian chefs who had recipes for flavoured ices or sorbets. One hundred years later, Charles 1 of England was, it was reported, so impressed by the "frozen snow" that he offered his own ice cream maker a lifetime pension in return for keeping the formula secret, so that ice cream could be a royal perogative.There is no historical evidence to support these legends, which first appeared during the 19th century. The first recipe in French for flavoured ices appears in 1674, in Nicholas Lemery’s Recueil de curiositéz rares et nouvelles de plus admirables effets de la nature. Recipes for sorbetti saw publication in the 1694 edition of Antonio Latini's Lo Scalco alla Moderna (The Modern Steward). Recipes for flavoured ices begin to appear in François Massialot's Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs, et les Fruits, starting with the 1692 edition. Massialot's recipes result in a coarse, pebbly texture. Latini claims that the results of his recipes should have the fine consistency of sugar and snow. Ice cream recipes first appeared in 18th-century England. The recipe for ice cream was published in Mrs. Mary Eales‘ Receipts in London in 1718.

Catherein De Medici

OED and the USA

However, the earliest reference to ice cream given by the Oxford English Dictionary is from 1744, reprinted in a magazine in 1877. 1744 in Pennsylvania Mag. Hist. & Biogr. (1877) I. 126 Among the rarities..was some fine ice cream, which, with the strawberries and milk, eat most deliciously.[16]

The 1751 edition of The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse features a recipe for ice cream. OED gives her recipe: H. GLASSE Art of Cookery (ed. 4) 333 (heading) To make Ice Cream..set it [sc. the cream] into the larger Bason. Fill it with Ice, and a Handful of Salt.[16] The year 1768 saw the publication of L'Art de Bien Faire les Glaces d'Office by M. Emy, a cookbook devoted entirely to recipes for flavoured ices and ice cream.[12] Ice cream was introduced to the United States by Quaker colonists who brought their ice cream recipes with them. Confectioners sold ice cream at their shops in New York and other cities during the colonial era. Ben Franklin, George Washington, and Thomas Jefferson were known to have regularly eaten and served ice cream. First Lady Dolley Madison is also closely associated with the early history of ice cream in the United States. One respected history of ice cream[which?] states that, as the wife of U.S. President James Madison, she served ice cream at her husband's Inaugural Ball in 1813.[17] Small-scale handcranked ice cream freezer were invented in England by Agnes Marshall and in America by Nancy Johnson in the 1840s.[

Hannah Glasse‘s Cook Book

Expansion in Popularity

In the Mediterranean, ice cream appears to have been accessible to ordinary people by the mid-eighteenth century.[19] Ice cream

became popular and inexpensive in England in the mid-nineteenth century, due to the efforts of a Swiss emigre Carlo Gatti. He set up the first stall outside Charing Cross station in

1851, selling scoops of ice cream in shells for one penny to the public; previously, ice cream was an expensive treat confined to

rich people with access to an ice house.[20] He built a large 'ice well' for storage of the ice that he took from Regent's Canal

under a contract with the Regent's Canal Company. By 1860, with a rapidly expanding business, he began importing ice on a large

scale from Norway.

Agnes Marshall, regarded as the 'queen of ices' in England did much to popularize ice cream recipes and make its consumption

into a fashionable middle-class pursuit. She wrote four books: Ices Plain and Fancy: The Book of Ices (1885), Mrs. A.B.

Marshall's Book of Cookery (1888), Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes (1891) and Fancy Ices (1894) and

gave public lectures on cooking. She even suggested using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream.

Agnes Marshall, Queen Of The ices

Sodas and Cones

Ice cream soda was invented in the 1870s, adding to ice cream's popularity. The invention of this cold treat is attributed to American Robert Green in 1874, although there is no conclusive evidence to prove his claim. The ice cream sundae originated in the late 19th century. Several men claimed to have created the first sundae, but there is no conclusive evidence to support any of their stories. Some sources say that the sundae was invented to circumvent blue laws, which forbade serving sodas on Sunday. Towns claiming to be the birthplace of the sundae include Buffalo, Two Rivers, Ithaca, and Evanston. Both the ice cream cone and banana split became popular in the early 20th century.

The first mention of the cone being used as an edible receptacle for the ice cream is in Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Book of Cookery of 1888. Her recipe for "Cornet with Cream" said that "the cornets were made with almonds and baked in the oven, not pressed between irons".[21][22][23][24] The ice cream cone was popularized in the USA at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis, MO.[25]

Mrs A.B. Marshall‘s Larger Cookery Book

Into the 20th century

The history of ice cream in the 20th century is one of great change and increases in availability and

popularity. In the United States in the early 20th century, the ice cream soda was a popular treat at the

soda shop, the soda fountain, and the ice cream parlor. During American Prohibition, the soda fountain to

some extent replaced the outlawed alcohol establishments such as bars and saloons.

Ice cream became popular throughout the world in the second half of the 20th century after cheap

refrigeration became common. There was an explosion of ice cream stores and of flavours and types. Vendors

often competed on the basis of variety. Howard Johnson's restaurants advertised "a world of 28

flavors". Baskin-Robbins made its 31 flavours ("one for every day of the month") the cornerstone of its

marketing strategy.

.

Ice cream takes to the skies

Soft Ice Cream

One important development in the 20th century was the introduction of soft ice cream, which has more air mixed in thereby reducing costs. It made possible the soft ice cream machine in which a cone is filled beneath a spigot on order. In the United States, Dairy Queen, Carvel, and Tastee-Freez pioneered in establishing chains of soft-serve ice cream outlets.

Technological innovations such as these have introduced various food additives into ice cream, the notable one being the stabilizing agent gluten,[26] to which some people have an intolerance. Recent awareness of this issue has prompted a number of manufacturers to start producing gluten-free ice cream.[27]

The 1980s saw thicker ice creams being sold as "premium"

and "super-premium" varieties under brands such as

Ben & Jerry's, Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream Company

and Häagen-Dazs

Carvel franchise, Canton, Michigan

Production

Before the development of modern refrigeration, ice cream was a luxury reserved for special occasions. Making it was quite laborious; ice was cut from lakes and ponds during the winter and stored in holes in the ground, or in wood-frame or brick ice houses, insulated by straw. Many farmers and plantation owners, including U.S. Presidents George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, cut and stored ice in the winter for use in the summer. Frederic Tudor of Boston turned ice harvesting and shipping into a big business, cutting ice in New England and shipping it around the world.

Ice cream was made by hand in a large bowl placed inside a tub filled with ice and salt. This was called the pot-freezer method. French confectioners refined the pot-freezer method, making ice cream in a sorbetière (a covered pail with a handle attached to the lid). In the pot-freezer method, the temperature of the ingredients is reduced by the mixture of crushed ice and salt. The salt water is cooled by the ice, and the action of the salt on the ice causes it to (partially) melt, absorbing latent heat and bringing the mixture below the freezing point of pure water. The immersed container can also make better thermal contact with the salty water and ice mixture than it could with ice alone.

The hand-cranked churn, which also uses ice and salt for cooling, replaced the pot-freezer method. The exact origin of the hand-cranked freezer is unknown, but the first U.S. patent for one was #3254 issued to Nancy Johnson on 9 September 1843. The hand-cranked churn produced smoother ice cream than the pot freezer and did it quicker. Many inventors patented improvements on Johnson's design.

Production

Before the development of modern refrigeration, ice cream was a luxury reserved for special occasions. Making it was quite laborious; ice was cut from lakes and ponds during the winter and stored in holes in the ground, or in wood-frame or brick ice houses, insulated by straw. Many farmers and plantation owners, including U.S. Presidents George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, cut and stored ice in the winter for use in the summer. Frederic Tudor of Boston turned ice harvesting and shipping into a big business, cutting ice in New England and shipping it around the world.

Ice cream was made by hand in a large bowl placed inside a tub filled with ice and salt. This was called the pot-freezer method. French confectioners refined the pot-freezer method, making ice cream in a sorbetière (a covered pail with a handle attached to the lid). In the pot-freezer method, the temperature of the ingredients is reduced by the mixture of crushed ice and salt. The salt water is cooled by the ice, and the action of the salt on the ice causes it to (partially) melt, absorbing latent heat and bringing the mixture below the freezing point of pure water. The immersed container can also make better thermal contact with the salty water and ice mixture than it could with ice alone.

The hand-cranked churn, which also uses ice and salt for cooling, replaced the pot-freezer method. The exact origin of the hand-cranked freezer is unknown, but the first U.S. patent for one was #3254 issued to Nancy Johnson on 9 September 1843. The hand-cranked churn produced smoother ice cream than the pot freezer and did it quicker. Many inventors patented improvements on Johnson's design.

Strawberry Ingredients

Serves: 32

2 (405g) tins sweetened condensed milk 1.2L (2 pints) milk

475ml (16 fl oz) double cream 2 tablespoons vanilla essence

1/2 teaspoon salt 500g (1 1/4 lb) strawberries, hulled and chopped

Stage 1: Preparation

Stage 2: Presentation

Ice Cream Trivia #1

1. 9. An “ice cream headache” happens because the nerve endings on the roof of your mouth are not used to being cold, and they send a message to your brain signaling a loss of body heat.

2. Professional ice cream taste-testers use special gold spoons which allow the tester to taste the product with virtually no trace of flavor left over from what was last on the spoon.

3. Vanilla ice cream may be the default flavor today, but it was quite exotic and rare in the late 1700s, as vanilla was difficult to acquire before the mid-19th century.

4. Many ice cream flavors popular in the colonial era in the United States are still mainstays – vanilla, strawberry, pistachio, coffee – but others, like oyster, parmesan, and asparagus – didn’t have staying power.

5. The Häagen-Dazs brand was established by two Americans – Reuben and Rose Mattus – and the name was made up to sound Danish and sophisticated. The Danish language does not actually use umlauts.

6. Food photographers frequently use modified mashed potatoes as a stand-in for actual ice cream in photos.

Chocolate

Ingredients

Serves: 8

150g caster sugar

250ml milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons cocoa powder

3 egg yolks, lightly beaten

50g plain chocolate, chopped

500ml double cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Stage 1: Preparation

Stage 2: Presentation

Ice Cream/Movie Combinations

Aquamarine - Rated PG - Ben and Jerry's Pfish Food (without the salt)

Big - Rated PG - Hot Fudge Sundae Grease - Rated PG - Strawberry Milkshake

Groundhog Day - Rated PG - Rocky Road (No white chocolate, no fudge)

It Could Happen To You - Rated PG - Vanilla Ice Cream with Pie

Lilo And Stitch - Rated PG - 1 Scoop Of Mint Chocolate Chip on a Cone

Napoleon Dynamite - Rated PG - Chocolate or Strawberry Shake

The Perfect Man - Rated PG - Vanilla Ice Cream with a Fudge Brownie

The Princess Diaries - Rated G - Pear Sorbet or 2 Scoops Your Choice on a Cone

Return To Me - Rated PG - 2 Scoops of Ice Cream

A Thousand Words - Rated PG-13 - Big ice cream sundae or banana split

Up - Rated PG - Ice cream cones

The Wedding Singer - Rated PG-13 - Banana Splits

While You Were Sleeping - Rated PG - Baskin Robbins(R) Chocolate Peanut Butter or Fudge Mint

Wish Upon A Star - Rated PG - 1/2 gallon of ice cream

Vanilla

Ingredients

Serves: 16

1L (1 3/4 pints) double cream

300ml (1/2 pint) milk

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

250g (9 oz) caster sugar, divided

10 egg yolks

Stage 1: Preparation

Stage 2: Presentation

Cow Facts An average dairy cow can produce enough milk in her lifetime to make a little

over 9,000 gallons of ice cream. A cow has only 1 stomach with 4 areas where food is digested: the rumen,

reticulum, omasum, and the abdomen. The udder of a cow can hold between 25-50 lbs. of milk.

A cows normal body temperature is 101.5°F.

The average cow chews at least 50 times per minute.

The typical cow stands up and sits down about 14 times a day.

Cows actually do not bite grass; instead they curl their tongue around it.

Cows have almost total 360-degree panoramic vision.

You can lead a cow upstairs, but not downstairs. Cows knees can’t bend properly to walk downstairs.

The average cow drinks 30 to 50 gallons of water each day

Cows have a great sense of smell. They can smell something up to 6 miles away

A Holstein’s spots are like a fingerprint. No two cows have exactly the same pattern of black and white spots. They are all different

Songs With Ice Cream In The Title 1. New Young Pony Club - Ice Cream 2. Van Halen – Ice Cream Man 3. Hannah Montana Ice Cream Freeze (Let‘s Chill) 4. Preservation Hall Band – Ice Cream 5. Tom Waits – Ice Cream Man 6. Captain Beefheart & his Magic Band – Ice Cream For Crow 7. Battles – Ice Cream 8.The Dynamics – Ice Cream Man 9. Glasvegas – Ice Cream Van 10. Sarah McLachlan – Ice Cream

Please note – this is just a mock up to give an

idea of what the project might look like.

We envisage there being 7-10 recipes and there will

be other film footage as well as other facts, stories

and trivia about ice cream.

Thanks for reading!

ice cream

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Octopws Media, Laugharne, West Wales.

For further information please contact:

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