ibt newsletter may2013 a5

7/30/2019 IBT Newsletter MAY2013 A5

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www.theislandsbooktrust.com

INSIDE

From the chairman

News

Six days in the Arctic

Lewis and Harris

Uist and Barra

Books

and.................

2013 events

programme

AGMSaturday 13 July 12noon

Ravenspoint, Kershader

(see page 16)

livin

ghistory

THE ISLANDS BOOK TRUST

URRAS LEABHRAICHEAN NAN EILEAN

newsl ette r No.36

May 2013editor

Alayne M Barton

THE ISLANDS BOOK TRUSTU R R A S L E A B H R A I C H E A N N A N E I L E A N

Tiree

The highlight o our2013 programme isa 3-day conerencein Tiree rom 30thMay-1st June, thefrst time the BookTrust has organisedan event on thisisland.

NEWSLETTERDue to requests from members and increasing postage costs we will no longer be sending out copies

of the newsletter by post, but, starting with this issue, will email them to members instead. Pleasekeep us updated if you change your email address. If you would like to continue to receive your copy by

post, please inform Alayne at

[email protected] or 01851 820946.

AlAynesArcticAdventure

Please rememberto renew yourmembership your support

really counts!


2/20

It has been a long, cold, but (at least in the Outer Hebrides)

predominantly dry build-up to Spring, and I am sure we are all looking

forward to warmer days and the opportunity to get out and about now

that Summer is on the horizon.

At the end of May, we have our rst big event in Tiree, a 3-day

conference with a packed programme which is attracting a lot ofinterest on the island, amongst Tiree exiles, and among the many who

have yet to visit this beautiful and distinctive island. As always, we have a

wonderful array of speakers from the academic world and from the local

community, and I look forward to a memorable event. We plan that we

should in due course publish a major book on the history of Tiree based

on contributions to the conference.

Then in June we have a further 3-day event in Lewis to examine the

life, legend, and legacy of St Columba, and the links between places from

Donegal to Lewis along Slighe Chaluim Chille, with outstanding speakers

from Ireland and Scotland. Places are still available.

A full programme of boat trips and walks during the summer months

has also been arranged from Lewis, Harris, Benbecula, Barra, Skye, and

Caithness; and our programme of evening talks will resume in the

autumn.

Our publications list continues to expand, with books on island

themes planned this year covering topics as diverse as Shipping Services

to Stornoway, Island Spirituality, Life in the Aird Bheag peninsula

in remote south-west Lewis, the Gaelic soap opera Machair, our

conference volume Recovering from the Clearances, a valuable casestudy of the Clearances in Lismore, and the life of famous Uist-born

footballer Malky MacDonald, the centenary of whose birth falls this year.

All of this indicates an active and thriving organisation and I should

like to thank everyone who has contributed to our track record

of success over the past decade. Financially, like many charities, we

continue to face challenges. We are meeting these through a fund-

raising and sponsorship drive, our management role in the exciting

new Hebridean Connections project, and further development of our

publications, including e-books. Trustees have also approved an increase

in membership rates from this Spring, to be endorsed at the AGM, the

rst such increase for several years.

I hope very much that you will continue to support us, and feel that

the contribution you are making to the sustainability of the Book Trust

represents value for money, given the contribution we are making to

furthering understanding and appreciation of Scotlands island heritage

and culture.

John Randall

ChairmanMay 2013

the islands book trust May 20132

from the chairman

May and June:

3-day events inTiree and Lewis

Summer:boat trips andwalks Lewis,Harris, Benbecula,Barra, Skye, and

Caithness

Autumn:programme ofevening talks


3/20

urras leabhraichean nan eilean an citean 2013 3

A RARE CHANCE TO VISIT THE AIRD BHEAG:

SATURDAY 29th JUNE

We are pleased to announce an exciting additional event to this

years programme.

On Saturday 29th June, we will be launching a wonderful new

book by John MacDonald about his memories of crofting andgrowing up in the long-deserted Aird Bheag (Ardveg) peninsula in

south-west Lewis, followed by a rare opportunity to visit this now

very remote location.

Arrangements are as follows:

12 noon, Uig Community Centre: Launch of new book it is

hoped that John MacDonald, now over 80 and living in Inverness,

will be present. Refreshments available, admission free.

Followed by chance to visit Ardveg (weather permitting) during

the afternoon, by either:

(i) Boat trip direct from Miavaig to Ardveg (85 return limited to

12 people, booking in advance essential); or

(ii) By vehicle along track to Hamnaway, and small boat from

Hamnaway to Ardveg (35 return, booking in advance essential)

This event has been arranged in conjunction with Comunn

Eachdraidh Uig, to whom we are most grateful.

For further details and bookings, please contact John Randall on

[email protected] or phone 01851 880365 rst come,

rst served!

SLIGHE CHALUIM CHILLE EXPLORING THE

LIFE, LEGEND, AND LEGACY OF ST COLUMBA IN

IRELAND AND SCOTLAND

There are still places left for our St Columba conference in June.

For those who missed it in the last newsletter, the conference is

being held to explore the enduring Columban links from Donegal

to the Outer Hebrides, and the opportunities to strengthen

cultural and linguistic bonds along the St Columba Trail. It takes

place from Thursday 20th June Saturday 22nd June 2013 at

Orinsay Hall and Ravenspoint, South Lochs, Lewis. We have a

great range of speakers lined up, including Donald Meek and Colin

Scott Mackenzie and there will also be an opportunity to visit the

teampull and graveyard on Eilean Chaluim Chille. A leaet about

it has been sent out with this newsletter so if youd like to book,

please ll in the form and send it to Alayne.

BOOK LAUNCHES

We have several books to launch in the coming months:

Steamers to Stornowaywill be launched at the Calmac terminalbuilding, Stornoway in May. The author, Colin Tucker will be talking

about the book and signing copies. Refreshments will be available.

Dilapidated croft

house at Aird Bheag


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the islands book trust may 20134

The Carrying Stream Flows On, the proceedings of our 2011

conference held in Shetland will be launched, along withAlexander

MacDonald, Bard of the Gaelic Enlightenment (Alasdair mac

Mhaighstir Alasdair, Brd an t-Soillearachaidh Ghidlealaich) at the School of

Scottish Studies, 27 George Square, Edinburgh in June.

Please check our website for details of both these events.

On Saturday 20th June we will be launching IslandSpirituality by the well-known author Alastair McIntosh. Thiswill be at Ravenspoint from 6.15- 7.00pm and Alastair will be

talking about the book and signing copies.

HEBRIDEAN CONNECTIONS

The Islands Book Trust has recently become involved with a new project,Hebridean Connections. The name will already be familiar to many in

connection with an existing website that incorporates tens of thousands

of linked historical records from six comann eachdraidh. This website

was set up between 2004 and 2008 as part of a Lottery-funded project,

but there has been little additional development since then.

The new Hebridean Connections project was set up in 2011 by eight

comainn eachdraidh but funding was not conrmed until early 2013. This

was followed by the recruitment of a project team of three people, who

will be in position for the next two years. The main funding body is theScottish Governments People and Communities Fund.

While the development of an enhanced and expanded website will

be a key feature of the project, the overall objectives are much more

wide-ranging this time round. The basic intention is to build a network

of organisations and interested volunteers throughout the Outer

Hebrides, focused on a common interest in genealogy and local history.

Members of this network will be able to work together in areas such as

information exchange, publicity, sharing of best practice, and promotion

of health and wellbeing through volunteering. The project team aims to

provide support, where required, to all comainn eachdraidh regardless of

the size of the membership and the level of resources available.

Because of its experience and its established presence throughout the

islands, the Islands Book Trust was asked to manage the project on behalf

of the comainn eachdraidh. One of the members of the project team,

administrative ofcer John Groom, is based at Ravenspoint, which is now

the central contact point for Hebridean Connections. A project blog will

be launched soon so that people can keep up with developments.

Tristan ap Rheinallt

Hebridean Connections Project Manager

ceangla

ic

hean inn

sega

ll

hebr

idea

nconnect

ions Real PeOPle - Real liVes

FOR DhaOine - FOR BheaTha


5/20


So, youre all set for the Arctic then? the voice on the phone says brightly.

Um yes, I think so, I reply.

Great, then well see you at Oslo Airport on Monday. Bye!

I put the phone down. The truth is, Ive no idea if I am all set for the Arctic. How do you know whatyoure going to need in average temperatures of -25? Ive got everything that was recommended on

the kit list and Ive put in a bit of training as suggested, but will it be enough?

My sister Hilary and I are going dog sledding in Arctic Norway. This seemed like a great idea a year

ago when we booked it. Now? Well, insane is one word that springs to mind. We are ying from

Edinburgh to Oslo via Copenhagen, then on to Alta on the north coast, latitude 69.5 degrees north,

deep in the Arctic Circle.

Its snowing in Edinburgh when we leave, as if to get us in the mood. So much so, in fact, that we

worry whether well get to Norway at all. At the airport however, everything seems to be running as

normal and soon were en route to Copenhagen, where we have a mere 25 minutes to make our con-

necting ight. We make it by running through the airport at top speed. Perhaps this is why we were

urged to train for the trip? As committed fans of Nordic Noir, were thrilled beyond measure to catch

a glimpse of The Bridge as we take off for Oslo.

Were meeting the rest of the group at Oslo airport. There are to be 11 of us, plus a British expe-

dition leader, a Norwegian guide, and rather alarmingly, a doctor. Its the latter were meeting here;

weve been told she is small and blonde, which doesnt exactly narrow it down in a country full of ax-

en haired vikings. We grab a quick sandwich and a cup of tea and sit down to consume them. Hilary

nudges me, pointing out a fair-haired woman who appears to be in charge of a group on the other side

of the caf. We look at them with dismay they are all so young! Surely this cant be our group? Hil-

ary texts the doctor while I watch the blonde woman, who makes no movement towards her phone.A text is received in return, Were up in the restaurant, come and nd us. Phew! We head upstairs.

The doctor, Annalie, turns out to be a brunette, but she is at least small, and very friendly. As are the

Although not

island related

we thought

you might like

to hear about

Alaynes trip toArctic Norway

in March of this

year. Alayne

and her sister

Hilary were

fundraising

for Bethesda

Hospice in

Stornoway and

raised a total of1179.

Six Days in the Arctic Circle

Alayne (let) and Hilary

at Mollisjok


6/20


others, who introduce themselves with smiles and offers of drinks. Five of them are Irishmen; Pat,

Donal, Gary, Ian and Richard, who have been travelling since 4am. They all know each other, some

from work and others from school. In addition there is Conor, who is also Irish but lives in Windsor,

Paddy, who confusingly isnt Irish, but comes from Kent, and Toni and Penny, English roses from Bristol

and Bournemouth respectively. Were pleased that they are all so friendly, but more importantly, re-

lieved that theyre all about our age and dont look too t!

In my ignorance I had expected the plane to Alta to be a similar size to our own island aircraft, so it

comes as something of a surprise to be ushered on to an enormous jet. Im seated next to two Nor-

wegians, who, bizarrely, are on their way home from watching Liverpool play at Aneld. I ask if theyd

enjoyed it. Yes, they said, and we have added lots of new words to our English vocabulary.

The plane calls at Troms, where additional passengers for Alta embark. They come up the aisle,

shaking hands and chatting with those already seated. You can tell whats being said, even though its in

Norwegian,Hi aye, how are you?

No bad, yourself?

Its after 11pm when we arrive in Alta, and the Irishmen are so tired that they can hardly walk in a

straight line. Were met by the two group leaders; Per-Thore the Norwegian and Brummie, from guess

where? They ing our carefully packed bags into the back of a minibus, tell us to jump in, and off we go

to our rst nights accommodation at Soulovombi, traditionally a mustering place for the Sam rein-

deer herders. We arrive and tumble straight into bed; weve a busy day tomorrow.

Next morning, the sun shines gloriously from a perfect blue sky. The snow is dazzling. Its also deep,

piled 6 feet high against the walls of the bunkhouse. Breakfast is served in the restaurant adjacent to

our hut, a wonderful spread of home baked bread, cheeses, ham, yogurt, jam made from locally picked

The Girls

with Dimitri(right) and his

assistant at

Souvolombi


7/20


berries we are warned not to get used to this. Dimitri, the enthusiastic young restaurant manager,

knows the next few days will be decidedly spartan and has pulled the stops out for us. Brummie gives

us a team talk as we eat, and by the time hes nished the mornings noisy condence has evaporated.

First things rst, we are each issued with an arctic suit and snow boots. Once theyre on, we move

like astronauts, and indeed the label inside says, Made on Earth. Per-Thore instructs us to take a sled

each. They are wooden, with long graceful runners which you stand on. The body of the sled is a big

blue fabric bag, into which all our gear, plus the human and canine food for the journey must go. There

is a metal pedal brake, which digs a spike into the snow to stop the sled. In addition there is a snow

anchor, which Per-Thore tells us to use carefully as it is possible to impale yourself on it. Heartening

news indeed.

Next we meet the dogs, which are each tied to their own kennel just round the corner. I had expect-ed huskies but actually they are an indeterminate breed of many different hues. They are all barking

madly and trying to jump up, tails birling like windmills because theyre so happy to see Per-Thore.

Were shown how to put their harnesses on and told always to attach our lead dogs to the sled rst.

Then everyone is given between four and six dogs. I get four, two black and tan ones at the front,

one brindled and one ginger at the rear. Theyre lovely, but they dont want affection, they want to

be off. Per-Thore heads to his own sled at the front of the line and at once all the dogs are straining

to go. There are no instructions; just pick up your ice anchor. As soon as I do I am jolted forward as

the dogs leap into action. Were off! The cacophony of barking immediately ceases. Its quite smooth

at rst as were on the at but within minutes theres a corner to negotiate and shortly afterwards, a

road crossing. I fervently hope theres nothing coming as I couldnt stop even if there was.

Road negotiated, its uphill now. As we get higher the Finnmarksvidda spreads out before us, an icy

Tired dogs curl

up in the snowat lunchtime


8/20


white world, as magical as Narnia, as alien as Mars. Theres no sound but the panting of the dogs and

the swooshing of the sled runners on the snow. The cold is startling; uncover your face and your

eyelashes freeze, a very weird sensation. Weve been warned about frostbite and snowblindness and

indeed the glare of the sun off the snow is ferocious.

Im beginning to think this is easy when we come to a forest with very steep uphill and downhill

sections. Going uphill you have to get off the sled and run behind it, pushing, to help the dogs. If you

dont, theyll turn round and give you accusing looks, as if to say, Get off the sled and help, you lazy !

This was what the tness training was for, and I had worried I would nd it hard. But its the going

down that scunners me. The dogs start to run, the sled picks up speed, the path zig-zags through thetrees and my sled mounts a snowbank and tips. As soon as I right it the dogs are off, dragging me

along behind. I cant get my feet back on the runners and I cant stop the sled. Eventually Im forced

to let go, shouting a warning to Toni whos in front of me. She manages to catch my lead dogs and

holds them till I trudge up to reclaim them. Its the rst of many falls in fact I spend most of the af-

ternoon doing whats known as the walk of shame. Toni counts 7 times by the end of the day, and she

should know as shes got the bruises to show for it. Im a little dispirited by the time we reach our

overnight stop at Lappujavri, but tell myself its early days, and I wasnt the only one who fell off just

the one who did it most often!

Our accommodation for tonight is an unheated hut with no electricity or running water and an

outside long drop toilet. It sounds even less tempting after a day on a dog sled. Everyones exhausted

and freezing but there are jobs to be done. Richard volunteers to light the enormous cast iron stove;

On Lake

Iesjavri

in -35


9/20


he becomes our Keeper of the Flames and Porridge Maker in Chief for the week. Brummie and some

of the the lads, as the Irishmen have already become known, take an enormous hand drill down to

the lake to make holes in the ice for water. Hilary and I offer to feed the dogs.

There are about 70 dogs and each gets half a scoop of pellets, followed by a lump of unidentiable

meat, which comes in frozen blocks that Per-Thore is busy hacking up with an axe. We ask what sort

of meat it is and where he gets it. You dont want to know, comes the reply. Hes right. It seems

odd, but the dogs dont drink at all; instead they scoop up mouthfuls of snow as they run along. They

also do other things as they run along lets just say there are times when it would be a really badidea to fall off your sled.

The hut warms up as the evening progresses. Per-Thore produces an excellent spaghetti bolognese

and fortied by food we all discuss the day. Brummie tells us weve done 46.5km today which is the

furthest theyve ever gone on a rst day and we glance at each other and smile, secretly proud that

were the group to achieve this.

The girls and Conor have volunteered to sleep in the traditional Sam tent tonight. Conor has

already lit the little stove in there and Per-Thore hands out Arctic sleeping bags and eece liners, in-

structing us to wear all our clothes, plus hats and gloves as well. Theres snow on the oor of the tentand our beds are reindeer skins, which turn out to be fantastic, if smelly, insulators. Were all roasting

at rst, but its not so warm when I wake at 3am. The dogs periodically howl during the night; one or

two start up, then theyre all at it, so none of us get much sleep and we blunder bleary-eyed back into

the hut in the morning.

A quick breakfast of porridge, bread and jam and gallons of black tea, then its time to hitch up the

dogs and be off. Outside the hut its complete chaos as everyone struggles to harness their dogs,

hitch them up in the right order, and stop them getting tangled with the other teams. Per-Thore is

shouting a lot; at the dogs, at us, and particularly at Annalies overly amorous lead pair - No sex! Heslike a bear, huge and irascible, but extremely competent, being ex-Norwegian Special Forces, and we

wouldnt last long in this hostile environment without him. As the week goes on though, we discover

that inside hes a less of a bear and more of a teddy.

Its snowing as we set off, with a fast downhill followed by a sharp turn to start. Actually this is how

we start every morning and it separates the wheat from the chaff as people come ying off their

sleds having taken the corner too fast. I am most denitely chaff. Weve been promised an easier day

today and so it turns out; were sledding over frozen lakes and rivers most of the day. Lake-side cabins

nestle amidst the birch woods on their banks. The sun comes out and its beautiful again, the line of

sleds arcs out in front of me, and I even feel condent enough to attempt to take some photos. Its anidyllic day, but when the sun goes down the temperature immediately drops and I start to feel really

cold. Pat is in front of me; his dogs are slow and everyone else has overtaken him. Brummies trying

to keep his spirits up by telling him its not much further. Half an hour ago he told us wed be there in

15 minutes. At last a line of huts appears, and weve arrived at Mollisjok.

Were right in the middle of the Finnmarksvidda here, in the heart of Sam country. People come

here all year round for the excellent shing; arctic char, trout and grayling abound in these waters. Its

salmon were having tonight though, and Per-Thore has done us proud again. The food, the fresh air

and the 47km weve done work their magic and everyone turns in early, apart from Gary and Ian, whosing us to sleep with Irish laments.

In the morning Per-Thore greets us with the news that it was -39 overnight, the coldest its been


10/20


so far this winter. Its not much warmer now, though the sun gamely tries to penetrate the freez-

ing mist which shrouds the trees and buildings. Its a short day today, only 30km, as were staying at

Mollisjok again tonight, so once the morning chaos has resolved itself we set off for Lake Iesjavri, at

13 kilometres long the largest lake in the Finnmark region. Its at all the way and just as well, for as

soon as I put my goggles on they steam up and freeze, making it impossible to see anything. I can just

about make out Donal in front of me. When we stop for lunch I remove my goggles and am surprised

to nd I still cant see anything; the mist is thicker here and the beautiful views we were promised

non-existent. It is fantastic though, we could be explorers on a far distant planet for all the relationthis bears to our own world.

The afternoon is spent blissfully warm in the sauna, followed by reindeer stew for dinner. Afterwards,

Paddy goes outside to try an experiment. Per-Thore told him earlier that when its this cold its pos-

sible to throw a glass of boiling water in the air and it will come down as ice. We all crowd outside to

witness this, our hair immediately freezing as we do. Its true; the ice droplets hang momentarily in the

air like a rework, then slowly descend, blending into the snow at our feet.

Friday morning, and were returning to the hut at Lappujavri, but this time were going over the moun-

tain. Within minutes Im sweating as much as I was in the sauna as Im running behind the sled all theway up. The dogs are tiring as the week goes on; they dont bark now when we stop, instead they curl

up into little balls in the snow. We hear ptarmigan in the birch woods as we start the descent, their

call echoing in the icy silence. Yesterdays mist has gone and its another beautiful day, though so cold

you can see particles oating in the air. Were going 52km today, the longest day yet, but we must be

getting better because were all surprised when we reach Lappujavri early. In a repeat of day 2 the

lads head off with the drill to get water while Hilary, Toni and I feed the dogs.

Unlike day 2, the lads fall through the ice the rst layer has become softer in the warmth of the sun

and they fall in up to their knees. Underneath them, the second layer is still metres thick but they geta fright nonetheless, and more worryingly, their gear is soaked. Per-Thore is concerned. We cannot

leave tomorrow if the boots are not dry, he pronounces, carefully hanging things round the stove

(Donal has already burnt a hole in his arctic suit). Idiots! he mutters, just for good measure. Gary

and Ian ply them with drink for the shock and the evening turns into a party, to celebrate their surviv-

al, to celebrate our last night in the wilds, and just to celebrate life in general.

Our last day dawns and weve all got aching stomach muscles from laughing so much last night. The

lads slept in the Sam tent and Gary in particular looks the worse for it, though how much of that is

the tents fault its hard to say. Richards porridge works its usual wonders though and were ready

with gear stowed and dogs hitched up in record time. Im a bit anxious about today as were takingthe same route back to Soulovombi that I fell on 7 times on the way out. Id really like to have at least

one accident free day. I survive the start (downhill, sharp turn) but before long were at the tricky

forested downhill sections. I grit my teeth, stand on the brake with both feet and grip the handle of

the sled so tight that my hands hurt. I make it in one piece down the rst hill; and the next one, and

several more after that. Before long the worst is over, just a long straight nal pull to Souvolombi.

The dogs know theyre going home, theyre putting in a last burst of energy. We hurtle over the nal

road crossing again, I couldnt stop if I tried - and were there.

Its time to say goodbye to the dogs, which is sad, but we all feel elated. Weve sledded 220km in 5days in extreme conditions and survived. The landscape has been amazing, the camaraderie has been

great, but having all day on the sled alone with your thoughts has been interesting too, even if those


11/20


12/20


The Carrying Stream Flows OnVarious AuthorsThis volume contains contributions by outstanding scholars fromScotland, Iceland, the USA, and Ireland to an international conferenceheld in Shetland in 2011 to mark the 60th anniversary of the School of

Scottish Studies at the University of Edinburgh. It includes assessmentsof the roles played by great gures in the history of Scotlands 20thcentury cultural development such as Hamish Henderson and CalumIain MacLean, who made pioneering contributions to the Schoolsunique collections of song and folklore a treasure-house of soundrecordings and photographs from Shetland to the Borders, from theWestern Isles to Buchan.The contributors demonstrate that the wonderful range of materialcollected, preserved, and disseminated by the School of Scottish Studiesover 60 years often has the deepest local roots yet is simultaneously

of national and international signicance. The work of the School hashelped to validate and inspire local cultures, and has also had a profoundimpact on Scotlands cultural and political development.ISBN: 978-1-907443-40-4 | 256pp | 44 B&W illustrations |

Paperback | 12.00 | Available now

Defending St KildaRon MorrisIn this book, based on new research and with archivephotographs, Ron Morris tells the intriguing and little-known

story of the role which St Kilda played in World War 1,including the establishment of a wireless station and RoyalNavy base to monitor enemy movements in the North Atlantic.In May 1918, a German U-boat entered Village Bay and openedre, following which a gun was erected on St Kilda next to theManse to respond to future attacks although this was neverused in anger.A avour of how the islanders responded to this unexpectedthreat can be gained from the following extract:Finlay MacQueen like some of the other islanders was still

under the impression the submarine was a friendly craft andintended to row his little boat out to it for a chat with the sailors andhoping to replenish his dwindling stock of tobacco in the process. Hegrew annoyed when the submarine failed to stop, but continued in itscircle putting his intended visit out of reach.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-41-1 | 103pp | 26 B&W illustrations |


Steamers to Stornoway Ships and ShippingServices from 1750Colin Tucker

This lavishly illustrated book is a fascinating record of the shippingservices linking the island of Lewis with the mainland of Scotland. In the

New and Forthcoming Books from IBT


13/20


17th century crossing the Minch could be a difcult and hazardousjourney, when sailing ships might take several days to complete thejourney, in stark contrast with the modern car-ferry which takes lessthan three hours. In the 19th century the introduction of steamshipsmade journeys both quicker and more reliable. The book charts theever-changing scene, including details of the different ships, many ofwhich became household names, and the routes to the mainlandports. Cruises to Stornoway and day trips from Lewis are described.Using contemporary newspaper reports and travellers descriptions,the crossing of the Minch through the ages is brought to life, as arethe shipwrecks and maritime disasters.

Shipping services are an essential part of the life of all islands andLewis is no exception. This history makes a valuable contribution tothe record of the life of Stornoway and Lewis, as well as chronicling animportant element of maritime history.



Island SpiritualityAlastair McIntoshThis book explores spirituality through the lens ofLewis and Harris - the pre-Reformation temples,Reformation theology, colonisation, clearances andevangelisation under the last of the Mackenzies

of Seaforth. Perhaps controversially and certainly,unconventionally, Dr McIntosh concludes that islandreligion, for all its struggled history and theologicaltensions, expresses a profound inner spirituality.It reveals itself in kindness that gives backbone tocommunity. It leads towards an ardent desire for God.It is our greatest export to a wider world.


Paperback | 7.50 | Available June 2013

Atlantic GaelsAidan OHara

Aidan OHara is an award-winning writer and broadcaster in bothEnglish and Gaelic. He is a native of the Inishowen peninsula in Co.Donegal from where Islay and the Paps of Jura can be easily seen ona clear day. As a small boy looking out to sea, he was intrigued by theprospect of what might lie in store in the land across the waves. Inthis exciting and informative booklet he explores the historic and

cultural links between Donegal and the Hebrides, and while dealingbriey with the obvious ties of language and music, faith and folklore,he also uncovers little-known facts that will surprise and amaze. Howmany people, for instance, know about the prominent Hebridean clan

Alastair McIntosh withTorcuil Macrath 2002


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of learned people whose roots are not in the islands but in Donegal?He writes of the sad fate of some 3,000 men, women and children ofClanranald who sailed into Lough Foyle one summers day in the year1586, hoping to make a new life for themselves in Ireland, and were neverheard from again. They were of the Islands soldiering tradition known asgallglaigh/galloglasses that became established in Ireland in the 13th and14th centuries. It is all part of this account of the common heritage of ourpeople whom Aidan calls Atlantic Gaels.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-49-7 | Paperback (booklet) | 7.50 | Available

now

Nights of Passion at the Scarinish Temperance HotelDonald S. Murray

An island writer, Donald S Murray has written in the past about Lewis,Shetland, Orkney, St Kilda, the intricacies of Harris Tweed and the annualguga hunt on Sulasgeir.

In this short booklet, he records his rst impressions of the InnerHebridean of Tiree the land of many of his maternal ancestors. In itspages, he contemplates both the irritating mating calls of the corncrakeand the even more absurd mating rituals of his fellow human beings aswell as the islands history and geography, past and present, the sweep ofrocks and magnicent beaches that ring Tirees coast

ISBN: 978-1-907443-52-7 | Paperback | 6.00 | Available June

2013

An Trusadh Memories of Crofting in the ArdvegJohn MacDonald

Today, Ardveg is a remote and uninhabited spot, accessible only on footover challenging mountainous terrain, or by boat. It is also an extremelybeautiful and magnicent location. There is a chapter on the area entitledThe Back of Beyond in Alasdair Alpin MacGregors book, The HauntedIsles, published in 1933. In 2012, the Islands Book Trust published MarcCalhouns book, Exploring the Isles of the West in which, in one chapter,he describes an invigorating visit and overnight stay in Ardveg.Unlike those two eeting visitors to the area, John MacDonald wasfortunate enough to have been brought up in Ardveg in one of only threehouseholds in the tiny township during the 1930s and 40s. He vividlycaptures what life was like then for his family mother, father, three sistersand himself and the rest of this vibrant, thriving Gaelic community,including his uncle and grandmother.The result is a fascinating, wide-ranging and unique rst-hand account of abye-gone era. The story reveals hitherto untold details of everyday life ofthis crofting and shing community. Ardveg even had its own school.

John MacDonald is himself a retired schoolteacher and headmaster, now

living in Inverness, with a sister, Ina, still resident in Islivig in Uig on Lewiswithin striking distance of Ardveg.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-53-4 | Paperback | 16 illustrations | Price tbc

| Available June 2013


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Recent Events in Lewis and Harris

CELEBRATING THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE RESETTLEMENT OF TRISTAN DA

CUNHA, THE WORLDS MOST ISOLATED ISLAND COMMUNITY

Our own intrepid 21st century explorer and island bagger Alasdair MacEachen gave an illustrated

talk about his trip to the South Atlantic island of Tristan da Cunha, the worlds most isolated island on

Wednesday 5th February at An Lanntair. It was a rare opportunity to hear about the people, the history,

and the wildlife of this remote outpost and how the islanders cope with their isolation.

Tristan is part of a group of four islands and has a population of 264, all of whom live in the islands

only settlement, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas. It is a British Overseas Territory and the islanders are

British citizens who have a British postcode and use pounds sterling. In 1961 the entire population of

the island was evacuated as St Marys Peak erupted, most returning in 1963 once the settlement had

been declared safe. Although modern life has now reached the islands, to some degree at least, the

isolation still renders life there precarious and uncertain.

Alasdairs talk was really fascinating, giving a good insight into an island group most of us will never

visit, but in many ways is similar to our own.

REPRESENTING THE OUTER HEBRIDES ISLAND IMAGES

An interesting event at An Lanntair

on Tuesday 19th March considered

the images of the islands we present

to the outside world, drawing on

strengths such as history, heritage,

a distinctive Gaelic culture, an

outstanding natural environment, and

caring communities.

Donald Martin, well known as

Deputy Lord Lieutenant for the

Western Isles and Chairman of the

Harris Tweed Authority, reected

on the choice of these images and

how far they are consistent with the

reality of island life.

In his illustrated talk Donald

drew on his experiences of growingup in Harris, his 35 years in public

service at national and local level, and

representing the Gaelic language and

culture at international level through

the European Bureau of Lesser Used Languages.

As Chairman of the Harris Tweed Authority for the past 6

years, he explained the background to the world famous Harris

Tweed Orb trademark and its signicance as a strong brand image for the islands and the industry. He

provided some examples of the images portrayed by media representatives in other countries of the

relationship between the cloth and the community.

It was a thought-provoking evening, of interest to all who live and work in the Outer Hebrides,

Donald Martin presented with theIcon award at Saks


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particularly those involved in attracting visitors to the islands or representing the islands in some way to

the wider world.

The talk coincided with a Gaelic course at Ravenspoint and some of the students from various

countries were present to contribute their own ideas and reections.

FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE THROUGH THE

HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS

Gregor Ewing came to the Harris Hotel, Tarbert on Thursday 11 April to tell us about his epic 530 milewalk recreating Bonnie Prince Charlies escape after defeat at the battle of Culloden. With only his four

legged friend Meg for company, the walk took him through remote wilderness, hidden glens, modern day

roads and uninhabited islands, taking 6 weeks to complete. As Gregor explained: I have had a long felt

desire to escape to Scotlands hills, to spend weeks amongst stunning scenery that stirs the blood. Being

keen on history I have always been fascinated with the old tracks, pathways and cofn or drove roads

that criss-cross the landscape. The lesser known the path the better as the feeling of discovery always

added to the fun.

To walk on an ancient pathway thinking of ancestors who traipsed the same roads for a particular

purpose added another dimension to the journey. I decided I wanted my escape to combine history and

remote terrain. I needed a substantial journey with some sort of historical signicance. That is where Iturned to the story of Bonnie Prince Charlie and his wanderings.

NOTICE OF AGM OF THE ISLANDS BOOKTRUST 2013This will take place at Ravenspoint,Kershader, South Lochs, Isle of Lewis,

HS2 9QA,

on Saturday 13th July, starting at 12 noon.

AGENDA1. Apologies2. Minutes of last AGM (31st July 2012)3. Matters arising4. Chairmans report5. Treasurers report6. Changes to membership rates

7. Election of Trustees8. Any other business

After the meeting there will be a talkabout the history of the deserted village ofStimreway, followed by an opportunity to buyrefreshments in the Ravenspoint cafe and aguided walk to Stimreway.

For more details, contact John Randall on01851 880365 [email protected]

Changes to Membership RatesFrom May 2013 our membership rates

will be as follows:

Ordinary Membership - 25

Gold Membership- 35

Overseas Gold Membership - 40

Full Time Student- 10Gold Life - 350


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New Books from Other Publishers

Charlie, Meg and MeGregor Ewing

Charlie: Prince Charles Edward Stuart, second Jacobite pretender

to the thrones of England, Scotland and Ireland, instigator of the

Jacobite uprising of 1945, fugitive with a price of 30,000 on his head

following the disaster of Culloden, romantic gure of heroic failure.

Meg: My faithful, four-legged companion, carrier of supplies, listener

of my woes, possessor of my only towel.

Me: An ordinary guy from Falkirk only just on the right side of 40,

the only man in a houseful of women, with a thirst for a big adven-

ture, craving an escape from everyday life.

For the rst time, Bonnie Prince Charlies arduous escape of 1746

has been recreated in a single journey. The author, along with his

faithful border collie Meg, retraces Charlies epic 530 mile walk

through remote wilderness, hidden glens, modern day roads anduninhabited islands.

ISBN: 978-1908373618 | 192pp | Paperback |9.99 | Available

now from Luath Press

Scotland No More? The Scots who left Scotlandin the 20th CenturyMarjory Harper

Scots at Large taps into the need we all share to know who we

are and where we come from. Scots have always been on the move,and from all quarters we are bombarded with evidence of interest

in their historical comings and goings. Earlier eras have been well

covered, but until now the story of Scotlands twentieth-century

diaspora has remained largely untold. Scots at Large considers

the causes and consequences of the phenomenon, scrutinising the

exodus and giving free rein to the voices of those at the heart of the

story: the emigrants themselves.

Marjory Harper is a Professor of History at the University of

Aberdeen. She has written extensively on the subject of Scottishemigration and won the Saltire Society Prize for the best history

book of the year in 2004.

ISBN: 9781908373359 | Hardback | 14.99 | Available now

from Luath Press

The Highland ClearancesEric Richards

This is the rst documented study of one of Scotlands most emotivesubjects for many years. It traces the origins of the Clearances from

the eighteenth century to their culmination in the crofting legisla-


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tion of the 1880s, showing how the process of clearance was part

of a wider European movement of rural depopulation. Eric Richards

describes the appalling conditions and treatment suffered by the

Highland people, yet at the same time illustrates how difcult the

choices were that faced even the most benevolent landlords in the

face of rapid economic change. The Clearances were the most rug-

ged and painful of many attempted solutions to the problem of how

to maintain a population on marginal and infertile land. In drawingattention away from the mythology to the hard facts of what actually

happened, this book offers a balanced analysis of events which creat-

ed a terrible scar on the Highland and Gaelic imagination, the histori-

cal legacy of which still lies unresolved in the twenty-rst century.

Eric Richards is Professor of History at Flinders University, Australia

and previously taught at Stirling University, Scotland. His published

work includes an acclaimed biography of Patrick Sellar, which was

awarded the prize for Scottish History Book of the Year (1999) by

the Saltire Society.

ISBN: 9781780271651 | 512pp | Paperback | 12.99 | Avail-

able now from Birlinn

Found at SeaAndrew Grieg

Andrew Greig recounts in poetic sequence the tale of his open

dinghy voyage from Stromness in Scapa Flow and an overnight stay

on Cava (an island formerly inhabited for over twenty years by twounusual women). In sailing small boats in scary open waters Andrew

Greg found a new activity and a new metaphor for life. Written in six

weeks, Found at Sea is a very wee epic about sailing, male friendship

and a voyage.

Andrew Greig was born in Bannockburn in 1951 and raised in the

Fife town of Anstruther. His rst book was the poetry collection

White Boats and his novel, In Another Light, won the Saltire Society

prize in 2004. He has also had success with mountaineering titles,

including Summit Fever and the mountain poetry collections Men on

Ice and Surviving Passages. In 1996 The Return of John Macnab wasshortlisted for the Romantic Novelists Association Award. Greig

is a former Glasgow University Writing Fellow and SAC Scottish/

Canadian Exchange Fellow. He studied philosophy at the University

of Edinburgh and held a number of part-time jobs before turning to

writing. He now lives in Edinburgh, and is married to author Lesley

Glaister.

ISBN: 9781846972690 | 72pp | Paperback | 8.99 | Available

now from Birlinn


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The rst of the 2013 Uist and Barra events took place in

Taigh Chearsabhagh, Lochmaddy, with a presentation given

by Susan Bain, Western Isles Manager with the National

Trust for Scotland. Susans presentation covered the recent

work on St Kilda ranging from the ongoing conservationwork to the seabird research and the recent more

specialised research into the life of the endemic St Kilda

Mouse. The 2012 - 2017 St Kilda Management Plan, launched

in Benbecula on the 29th of August last year, is now well

into its rst year and Susan was able to update the audience

on progress with the Plan and the proposals in place for the

coming year.

Susan also covered the Trusts work on the Barra Head

Islands and showed slides of the refurbished schoolhouseon Mingulay. This project was carried out in the summer of

2012 under the supervision of Jonathan Grant, the Trusts

local Ranger for the island group of Berneray, Mingulay and

Pabbay.

Then on Wednesday 10th April, in Sgoil Lionacleit,

Gregor Ewing talked about his newly published book

Charlie Meg and Me, giving an account of his 530 mile walk

in the early summer of last year, retracing the steps takenby Bonnie Prince Charlie through the Highlands and the

Western Isles, following the defeat at Culloden.

We now look forward to the summer season and easing

off the talks, as we hope for good conditions to embark on

a few islands trips, beginning with Wiay on Saturday 25th

May.

Alasdair MacEachen

Recent and Future Events in Uist and Barra

Wiay


20/20

NOTES1. All boat trips are weather permitting and must be booked in advance.2.[G]= Mainly in Gaelic, but please note that non-Gaelic speakers are very welcome and encouraged to come translations into Englishwill be provided.3. Please see website www.theislandsbooktrust.comor updated inormation on all events.4. For urther details and bookings, please contact Alayne Barton 01851 820946 or Margaret Macdonald 01851 880737 (all events), JohnRandall 01851 880365 (Lewis, Harris and Tiree), Alasdair MacEachen 01870 602124 (Uist and Barra), Sne Ghilleasbuig 01470 562325

(Skye), or Christine Gunn 01847 896508 (Stroma).

urrAsleAbhrAicheAnnAn eileAn - the islAndsbooktrust a registered scottish charity SC032682 Ravenspoint Kershader Isle o Lewis HS2 9QA

EVENTSSaturday 11 May Walk with Eoghain MacKinnon in Strathaird A Cheapach gu Cill Mo Ruibhe, depart 11am [G]

Saturday 18th May Walk from Urgha (Harris) to Molinginish to meet Simon Fraser, depart 11am

Saturday 25th May Boat trip to Wiay from Petersport (Benbecula), depart 10 am (booking essential)

Thursday 30th May Saturday 1 June 3 day conference, The Secret Island Towards a History of Tiree, An Talla,Tiree

Saturday 15th June Boat trip to Barra Head (Berneray) from Castlebay (Barra), depart 10am (booking essential)

Thursday 20th Saturday 22 June 3 day conference, Slighe Chaluim Chille Links between Western Ireland andthe Western Isles, Ravenspoint, Lewis

Saturday 6th July Boat trip to former settlements of Southern Pairc, between Loch Seaforth and Loch Claidh

(including Kenmore, Bagh Ciarach, Bagh Reimseabhaidh, Caolas Eilean Thinngartsaigh and Smuaisibhig), depart fromKyles Scalpay (Harris) at 11am (booking essential)

Saturday 27th July Walk with Dugald Ross from the Storr Lochs to the former settlement of Holm A cumail nacuimhne be, depart 11am [G]

Saturday 3rd August Boat trip to Mealista Island from Husinish (Harris), depart 11am (booking essential)

Saturday 10th August - Boat trip to Stroma from Gills Bay, Caithness, depart 10am (booking essential)

Saturday 31st August Walk to Usinish Lighthouse from Loch Skipport (South Uist), depart 10am

Friday 20th September Talk by Alasdair MacEachen Celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Resettlement ofTristan da Cunha, the worlds most isolated community, Sgoil Lionacleit, Benbecula, 7.30pm

Thursday 24th October Angus MacLeod Memorial Lecture, Gravir, Lewis (details to be announced later) [G]

Friday 25th October Talk by John Love A Look at Uist Wildlife, Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist, 8pm

Tuesday 29th October Saturday 2 November Faclan (details to be announced later)

Tuesday 19th November Talk by Margaret Bennett Bogs, Bothans, Bridges and Bagpipes Personal Reectionson my Fathers Life as a Musical Civil Engineer in Lewis and Newfoundland, An Lanntair, Stornoway, 7.30pm

ibt newsletter may2013 a5

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