how to build an nft system
TRANSCRIPT
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How to build an NFT system
NFT stands for nutrient film technique. The idea behind the system is
that when plants are suspended in fence post or pvc then the nutrient
solution is pump from a reservoir and set inside the plastic fence post
and set to mist on the roots. Then the water runoff goes back down the
plastic fence post, back into the reservoir. It is quite simple method
because the reservoir is separated from the plants so it makes it easier
to maintain. So get into what all we need.
PVC PIPE and PIECES
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Theses are the pieces we need to build the system then we start
construction.
I will have to explain these steps but it is fairly simple is you try to look
at it and figure it out. With this method you only veg the plants untilthey are 12in tall then force them into flowering. They grow estimated
3ft at the end so they arent very tall. But they are really bushy and look
like little Christmas trees with high yield because more light gets to the
bottom branches.
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here is an estimate on the closet size it looks about right maybe eight
feet is too long im not sure. I really want you to look into doing this its
called a NFT system if you want to google it. Add nft grow and do an
image search on google. I want to know soon if you want to start so call
me later today or tomorrow.
How to Build a Flood and Drain system
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Article 1-1 Flood & Drain Systems
FLOOD AND DRAIN SYSTEMSAnswer: These irrigation systems are based on a very simple concept: plants grow in individual rockwool
blocks in a large shallow tray. The tray is flooded with nutrient solution until the rockwool cubes and roots
are wet, then the tray is drained to allow air back into the cubes. Rockwool soaks up the food and water like
a sponge, so irrigation generally takes only a few minutes at a time. Gravity draws excess water from the
cubes and keeps the roots healthy.The simplicity of this system lends itself to many uses in horticulture. Large-scale commercial propagation
systems using the flood and drain concept are becoming more common every day, since crops rooted inrockwool blocks can be transplanted to potting soil, hydrocorn, larger rockwool blocks, and even nutrient
flow (NFT) and aeroponic systems.Flood tables have also become popular for intensive crop production of shorter crop plants (to about a
meter tall). Herbs, flowering ornamental crops (miniature roses, poinsettias) and even cherry tomato plantswork well in this garden system.Indoor growers working with short crop plants find this system very productive gardening under lights,
especially with horizontal shades for intense light levels. Since the crop grows directly under the lamps,
and virtually all the light is directed down onto the crop, the need for reflective material on walls is
eliminated. Instead of crowding crops into the corner of a room in a desperate effort to capture light lost by
inefficient reflectors, these tables work better placed in an open area for easier temperature control andgreater air movement through the crop. Open sides makes it easy to maintain the garden. Remember that
better air movement through the garden can mean fewer pest and disease problems, too!Although the system is simple, successful growing is based on careful planning and preparation, since
everything is growing so fast! A 4' x 8' garden might hold 20-30 small bushes, using one or two 1000 watt
lamps with horizontal reflectors. Two or three 16" oscillating fans move air through the garden towards a
"Dayton" 465 CFM or 550 CFM exhaust fan, which carries the hot air away from the garden.
A 20 to 30 gallon reservoir under the flood table holds the nutrient solution. A "Little Giant" (1 AT) waterpump in the reservoir moves the food up through a short length of 1/2" polyhose to a "bulk head" fitting in
the table. The nutrient mix is pumped up into the table until the cubes are completely watered (usuallyunder 1O minutes), then the pump is shut off and nutrients drain back to the reservoir. Use an air pump (4.2
PSI air pressure ) with 2" or 3 12" air stones to aerate the nutrient solution in the reservoir.
FLOOD TABLE ASSEMBLY
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Irrigation and drainage:A single 3/4" poly hose
supplies nutrients from the
reservoir to the plants on the
flood table. Drill a 1" hole in
the flood table, in one of the
flat areas on the bottom of thetray (and through the plywood
support for the table).
y Insert a 3/4"bulkhead fitting
(thru- hull) throughthe hole, with the
threaded end pointing
down. (use 2washers- one on the
inside of the tray, and
one underneath).
y Tighten the bulkheadnut onto the bulkheadsecurely.
y Push one end of the3/4" poly hose onto
the bulkhead fitting,
and connect the otherend of the hose to the
pump in the
reservoir. Shorten the
hose if necessary toavoid crimping or
bending the hose.
y Fill the reservoir withnutrient solution,plug in the pump and
flood the table to
check for leaks.
Check where the
bulkhead is
connected to the
table, and where the
3/4" hose fits on thebulkhead.
y When the pump isshut off, the nutrientsolution should drain
back to the reservoir.
Gardening With The 'Flood and Drain' SystemsFlood tables. are ideal for intensive, high-yield cultivation of short crops (plants to one meter tall).
We'll describe the use of this system with 4" 'Grodan' rockwool blocks, but gardeners have used
other grow mediums (hydro-corn in net pots for example) successfully too. The main differences in
using hydro-corn are in frequency of irrigation and in use of an opaque cover. For the table (6mil.
black and white poly works fine) to protect roots growing out of the net pots from the heat and light
of the lamps. Let's look at a typical cycle of crop production using the flood table. We'll consider
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the three stages of growth on this table: the transition stage associated with transplanting cuttings
into the 4" cubes, the "green growth" stage, and crop production stage.
TRANSITION STAGEDuring this growth stage, rooted cuttings or seedlings growing in small rockwool cubes (mm 40-40
'Grodan' cubes) are transplanted to prepared 4" Grodan rockwool blocks and placed on the table. The
purpose of this stage is:
y To develop new roots into the larger blocks.
y To allow the plants to gradually adjust to 'green growth' conditions.
Remember that we are dealing with very young plants. They have small root systems in the starter cubes;they've been growing under low light levels they've had very mild fertilizers and low levels of air
movement.
CONDITION STAGEOur goal is to progress as quickly as possible in conditioning the transplants to handle the intense growing
conditions of their 'green growth' stage by gradually increasing light levels, nutrient strength, etc. It isimportant to make the transition stage go smoothly, with no set-backs to the crop. This is a good time to
develop "two-way communication" with your plants. Of course plants can't talk, but they do use 'bodylanguage'! Growers who learn to recognize the signals plants give off will garden very successfully. For
example, if you raise light levels to the crop by moving lamps closer, you'll watch plants closely to see their
reaction. If they all wilt, raise the lamps back to their original height and try again when they have better
root systems established. Dealing with living things can be very challenging, but once you know your
crop's likes and dislikes, it will be easier each time you repeat this stage.
Transition Stage - Activities
1. Prepare the reservoir:
y Use 20-30 gallons of water in reservoir.y Mix a mild 'green growth' fertilizer solution: (Nutrient strength 600-800 PPM; pH 6-7)
Temperature 21C = 70FConnect air stones to air pump with clear air hose, place stones in fertilizer reservoir and plug in
the air pump to aerate nutrient solution.If reservoir is cold (e.g. sitting on concrete floor) use an aquarium heater in the solution to
maintain proper nutrient temperature 68 - 72.
2. Transplant into 4" blocks:
y Prepare 4" Grodan blocks using PL 4.5 water solution. Soak 24 hours, rinse well. Removeprotective plastic wrappers from small (mm40-40) propagation cubes and plant into the large holes
of the 4" blocks.
y Leave wrappers on 4" blocks.y Put plants onto table, spacing them evenly.
3. Feed the plants:
y Turn on the pump and flood the table to soak cubes with nutrients (about 10-15 minutes).y Shut off pump to drain the table
4. Set up lighting:
y A single 1000 watt lamp and reflector gives adequate light for 20-30 new transplants.y Position lamp about one meter above plants. Turn on lamp and monitor temperature closely. Best
temperature for new transplants: 23C = 75F.
5. Establish air movement above plants:
yA single 16" oscillating fan will do for these young plants. Do not blow air directly onto plants!You'll overwork their small root systems!
y Set up oscillating fan 2 - 3 feet (up to one meter) away from table.y Raise fan on stand so air is moving above the transplants.y Leave fan running 24 hours a day.
6. Set up exhaust fan:
y Use exhaust fan at far end of garden from oscillating fans. Run exhaust fan 24 hours a day.7. Hang or mount thermometer at top of plants:
y Watch temperature closely.
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y Maintain 23C - 75F during light cycle.8. Shut off Lamps after 18 Hours of Lighting: maintain cooler temperature during the 6 hour dark
period: (18C = 65F best.)
9. Maintain moderate growing conditions:
y Monitor progress of your crops as you gradually increase light levels, food strength, etc. Signs thatplants are adapting to new conditions are:
yIncreased root growth into 4" blocks. . Roots start to grow out bottom of 4" blocks.
y New top growth and branching.y within 7-10 days, your crop should be actively growing in full light levels, with full food
strength (1600-1800 PPM) green growth fertilizer mix. You are now into green growth
stage!Properly watered new transplants likely won't need irrigation for 2-3 days or longer! If plants look
healthy and rockwool is still damp, don't water or feed!
GREEN GROWTH STAGE1. Establish good growing conditions:
Lighting:
y One or two 1000 watt lamps with horizontal reflectors - directly over the crop, about 18 inches ( .5meter ) above the plants.
y Exact lamp height above the plants is determined by temperature. Position a thermometer so it'slevel with the top of the plants, then raise or lower lamps until the thermometer shows the correctgrowing temperature (30C - 85F).
Nutrients:
y Nutrient strength 1600-1800 PPM (parts per million). -pH: 5.5-6.5y Nutrient temperature: 21C = 70F.;
Air Movement:
y Use two 16" oscillating fans to move fresh air through the garden. Position the fans about .5 meter(about 18" to 24" away from the table, and direct air flow through the garden towards the exhaust
fan.
y Use oscillating and exhaust fans 24 hours a day.Watering and Feeding:
y Don't overwater! Most crops will only need to be fed once every 2 - 3 days. If plants look healthyand rockwool is still damp, don't irrigate your crop yet!
y Your nutrient solution was started at the beginning of the transition stage, and you've added morenutrients to increase food strength to 1600-1800 PPM. Drain and replace nutrients after 17 days.Monitor plant health and height:
y Check underside of leaves for signs of spider mites and eggs. Check every plant!y Use 'sticky cards' to check for signs of flying insects.y Handle pest problems immediately! -Raise lamps as crops grow to maintain correct temperature
(30C - 85F). -When plants reach 10" -12" (.3 meter), consider changing to crop production
stage.
CROP PRODUCTION STAGE
1. Summer (Long Day) crops: For 'long day' crops such as miniature roses, basil, bush tomatoes
y Continue 18 hour days, 30C temperature.y Change to 'flowering and crop production' fertilizer mixy Nutrient strength: 1200 -1400 PPM.
2. Autumn (Short Day) Crops: For 'short day' crops such as chrysanthemums, poinsettias:y Reduce 'daytime' temperature to 27C = 80F. Gradually reduce light hours to shorten day length
from 18 to 12 hours.
y Use 'autumn' light (high pressure sodium, 'compatible' sodium lamps).y Change to flower nutrients formula.y 'Dark period' temperature: 15-1 8C (60-65F).