History of HaircoloringHistory of Haircoloring

colorscolors

Objective:Objective:

The student will be able to understand color The student will be able to understand color theory in relationship to history theory in relationship to history from prehistoric times to the presentfrom prehistoric times to the present

IntroductionIntroduction

Haircoloring is the science of changing the Haircoloring is the science of changing the color of the hair by either removing or color of the hair by either removing or adding color to hair with chemicalsadding color to hair with chemicals

Color is not newColor is not new Popularity throughout historyPopularity throughout history

– at least as long as history has been recordedat least as long as history has been recorded

HaircoloringHaircoloring

Neanderthal manNeanderthal man– strange methodsstrange methods

– ingredientsingredients» mudmud

» clayclay

» berriesberries

» nutsnuts

» rootsroots

» mineralsminerals

» insectsinsects

Primitive timesPrimitive times

Paint providedPaint provided– camouflagecamouflage

– disguisedisguise

– identificationidentification

– decorationdecoration

Favorite coloring Favorite coloring by - productsby - products– plantsplants

– small shrubssmall shrubs

plants & shrubsplants & shrubs

Grew wild in desertGrew wild in desert Plant partsPlant parts

– released a dyereleased a dye

– thick pastethick paste

Common plantsCommon plants– hennahenna

– indigoindigo

– sagesage

– chamomilechamomile

plants & shrubsplants & shrubs

applied to hair shaftapplied to hair shaft– messymessy

– unpredictableunpredictable

faceface bodybody

Moving through history : 27BCMoving through history : 27BC

Thought of as “pre-carrot-top” ageThought of as “pre-carrot-top” age– Sign of class distinction or statusSign of class distinction or status

» Gauls dyed their hair redGauls dyed their hair red

Dark ages - red was associated w/witchcraftDark ages - red was associated w/witchcraft– actual genetic error , appeared in Scotland around this actual genetic error , appeared in Scotland around this

timetime

Women wanted blonde hairWomen wanted blonde hair» ashes & elderberries & nutshellsashes & elderberries & nutshells» vinegar sedimentvinegar sediment

27 B.C.27 B.C.

Women who wanted red hairWomen who wanted red hair» goat’s fatgoat’s fat» beech wood ashesbeech wood ashes

Popular colorsPopular colors» blues & greenblues & green

Created fromCreated from» herbsherbs» teasteas» plants or plant extractsplants or plant extracts

Different colorsDifferent colors

Created from herbs, teas, plants or plant Created from herbs, teas, plants or plant extractsextracts– heated with wine or vinegarheated with wine or vinegar– metal containermetal container

» type of metal determined the colortype of metal determined the color

Lemon & citrus fruitsLemon & citrus fruits– lightenedlightened

ColorColor

Most popular colorMost popular color– BlackBlack

» leechesleeches

» vinegarvinegar

» fermented for two monthsfermented for two months

» baked in sunbaked in sun

» oil in mouth oil in mouth

» prevented teeth from turning blackprevented teeth from turning black

1300 B.C.-1600’s1300 B.C.-1600’s

Early EgyptiansEarly Egyptians– Style of the period was Style of the period was

set by Kings & Queensset by Kings & Queens» sign of distinction or status sign of distinction or status

» very prestigiousvery prestigious

– Queen ElizabethQueen Elizabeth» gave regal RED gave regal RED

its proper place its proper place in historyin history

1300 B.C.-1600’s1300 B.C.-1600’s

– Concoctions Concoctions » henna , sage , & indigohenna , sage , & indigo

» packed on their hair to brighten & cover graypacked on their hair to brighten & cover gray

» results again were undesirableresults again were undesirable

Egyptian styleEgyptian style

Men & women shaved their headsMen & women shaved their heads– for reasons of hygienefor reasons of hygiene– ritual feastritual feast– wealthy women of high lineage had their wigs wealthy women of high lineage had their wigs

made from real hairmade from real hair– poorer women used woolpoorer women used wool– social status was immediately evident from the social status was immediately evident from the

wig & colorwig & color

EgyptianEgyptian

Color of wigsColor of wigs– blueblue– brownbrown– orangeorange– pinkpink– whitewhite

» most popular of wigs or hairmost popular of wigs or hair women wearing yellow-blond was identified as a woman women wearing yellow-blond was identified as a woman

of a particular professionof a particular profession

Golden Age : Roman EmpireGolden Age : Roman Empire

Captives of unfamiliar racesCaptives of unfamiliar races– fair haired titian’s awed the Romansfair haired titian’s awed the Romans

– bleached their own hair w/ saffron , red arsenic, bleached their own hair w/ saffron , red arsenic, nut shells and ashes of plantsnut shells and ashes of plants

Roman lawRoman law– decreed that yellow or blonde was to be worn by decreed that yellow or blonde was to be worn by

“women of the night”“women of the night”

– first indication that blondes were having more funfirst indication that blondes were having more fun

Roman hairRoman hair

Roman elite had hairdressers to help Roman elite had hairdressers to help prepare hair dyeprepare hair dye

Cut their hair off when in mourningCut their hair off when in mourning– wear a wigwear a wig

Choice of wig determined time of day, Choice of wig determined time of day, occasion & social standingoccasion & social standing

Imported blonde hair from Germanic tribes Imported blonde hair from Germanic tribes

Renaissance PeriodRenaissance Period

Re-birth, end of middle age Re-birth, end of middle age Beginning of new eraBeginning of new era Beginning of Modern TimesBeginning of Modern Times Renaissance women favored golden huesRenaissance women favored golden hues

– by then considered angelicby then considered angelic

RenaissanceRenaissance

Colors created from herbs, teas, plants or Colors created from herbs, teas, plants or extractsextracts– heated w/ wine or vinegarheated w/ wine or vinegar– type of metal container determined the colortype of metal container determined the color

Lightened hairLightened hair– lemons & other citrus fruitslemons & other citrus fruits– soap or alum , black sulfur & honeysoap or alum , black sulfur & honey– spread their tresses over a brimless hat until the sun spread their tresses over a brimless hat until the sun

helped them achieve the shade they desired helped them achieve the shade they desired

RenaissanceRenaissance

Black most popular colorBlack most popular color– leeches & vinegar fermented for 2 monthsleeches & vinegar fermented for 2 months– applied while in sun the women held oil in mouth to applied while in sun the women held oil in mouth to

keep their teeth from tuning blackkeep their teeth from tuning black Lighter look to hairLighter look to hair

– weave strands of pure gold into their hairweave strands of pure gold into their hair– wigs made of Scandinavian hair ; very wealthywigs made of Scandinavian hair ; very wealthy– powders, pomades, roots, herbs & every conceivable powders, pomades, roots, herbs & every conceivable

concoction imaginableconcoction imaginable

19th Century19th Century

Natural ingredients remained the essence of Natural ingredients remained the essence of haircolor until the 19th centuryhaircolor until the 19th century

1800’s , men began using silver nitrate to 1800’s , men began using silver nitrate to darken their mustachesdarken their mustaches

1825 - first real haircolor was developed1825 - first real haircolor was developed– Grecian Water - mixture of distilled water, Grecian Water - mixture of distilled water,

silver nitrate & gum watersilver nitrate & gum water» repeated usage made hair turn purplerepeated usage made hair turn purple

19th Century19th Century

1859 - German student working w/ coal tar, 1859 - German student working w/ coal tar, diluted it with alcoholdiluted it with alcohol– result was purple dyeresult was purple dye– trappers used to dye furtrappers used to dye fur– first synthetic dye to be used on fabrics & hairfirst synthetic dye to be used on fabrics & hair

19th Century19th Century

1885 - discovery of 1885 - discovery of Para-Phenylene-DiaminePara-Phenylene-Diamine

Used alone or with metallic saltsUsed alone or with metallic salts Expanding the range & quality of color Expanding the range & quality of color

availableavailable

19th Century19th Century

Unfortunately this product looked artificialUnfortunately this product looked artificial General public would not accept this colorGeneral public would not accept this color Left to actresses and wealthy women of Left to actresses and wealthy women of

leisureleisure

20th Century20th Century

Around the turn of the centuryAround the turn of the century– metallic substances mixed w/ chemicalsmetallic substances mixed w/ chemicals– could only darken could only darken

» continual usage caused hair to go blackcontinual usage caused hair to go black

– adverse reaction to other chemicalsadverse reaction to other chemicals» permanent wavingpermanent waving

Still a taboo to color your hairStill a taboo to color your hair– ladies would deny they colored their hairladies would deny they colored their hair

Early 20Early 20thth Century Century

Popular for actresses to color their hair.

It wasn’t until the middle of the century that a common woman dying her hair was accepted.

1920’s1920’s

Silver Blonde EraSilver Blonde Era– identified with entertainment figuresidentified with entertainment figures

» Jean Harlow - Jean Harlow - almost white blonde hairalmost white blonde hair

BleachingBleaching– daring but populardaring but popular– mixed soap flakes, ammonia, peroxide & white mixed soap flakes, ammonia, peroxide & white

henna with an old-fashioned egg beaterhenna with an old-fashioned egg beater Eliminate yellowEliminate yellow

– mercury or silver dust was usedmercury or silver dust was used

1930’s1930’s

Chemicals were still unstable & harshChemicals were still unstable & harsh Nonetheless, women were running to get Nonetheless, women were running to get

their hair bleachedtheir hair bleached– even though the chemicals were comparable to even though the chemicals were comparable to

present day laundry bleachespresent day laundry bleaches Hair color went back in the closet because Hair color went back in the closet because

only “loose girls” used itonly “loose girls” used it

19321932

First oil shampoo tint introduced by ClairolFirst oil shampoo tint introduced by Clairol Could be applied directly to the hair with Could be applied directly to the hair with

swab or brush because of the viscosityswab or brush because of the viscosity Produce a true-to-life colorProduce a true-to-life color Launching haircolor on the route to become Launching haircolor on the route to become

a huge, profitable industrya huge, profitable industry

19401940

Women admitted they colored their hairWomen admitted they colored their hair Demand for colorDemand for color

– needed to produce a permanent hair color needed to produce a permanent hair color – compatible with permanent wavingcompatible with permanent waving

Two - step processTwo - step process– pre-lightenpre-lighten– to colorto color

19401940

The dye was without viscosityThe dye was without viscosity Professional applicationProfessional application

– with cotton swabwith cotton swab Desired colorDesired color

– processing timeprocessing time Beginning of the industryBeginning of the industry

19501950

Silver & pastel blondes became the rageSilver & pastel blondes became the rage ““Technicolor” & motion picture industry Technicolor” & motion picture industry

– created a never-ending demandcreated a never-ending demand– ““titian” & high-fashion shadestitian” & high-fashion shades

First real breakthroughFirst real breakthrough– lightened hair without bleachlightened hair without bleach

19501950

ClairolClairol– introduced Miss Clairol Hair Color Bathintroduced Miss Clairol Hair Color Bath– lightened & tinted in a single steplightened & tinted in a single step– spray - in colors became popularspray - in colors became popular

Color took offColor took off

1960’s1960’s

Introduction of shampoo - in colorIntroduction of shampoo - in color Manufacturers made products so easy to Manufacturers made products so easy to

applyapply– it could be done at homeit could be done at home

7 out of 10 women color their hair as well 7 out of 10 women color their hair as well as menas men

1960’s1960’s

Down fall of the industryDown fall of the industry Drop in business in coloringDrop in business in coloring Created a need for special effects through Created a need for special effects through

applicationapplication This gave the Cosmetologist the This gave the Cosmetologist the

opportunity to prove that haircoloring opportunity to prove that haircoloring belongs in the hands of the professionalbelongs in the hands of the professional

1980’s1980’s

Women had choiceWomen had choice– temporarytemporary– permanentpermanent– semi-permanentsemi-permanent– vegetable dyes vegetable dyes

» for those with a “ natural bent “for those with a “ natural bent “

TodayToday

Advances in haircolor chemistry results in Advances in haircolor chemistry results in diversity of productsdiversity of products

The field of dimensional haircoloring has The field of dimensional haircoloring has brought a whole new audience to brought a whole new audience to professional haircoloringprofessional haircoloring

It is the combination of these skills that It is the combination of these skills that make a truly creative haircolor artistmake a truly creative haircolor artist

TodayToday

Laboratories throughout the world are now Laboratories throughout the world are now working on the first laser colorworking on the first laser color

Lasers can lighten in a nanosecondLasers can lighten in a nanosecond– process has yet be controlledprocess has yet be controlled

Unless you want to go from black to white blonde Unless you want to go from black to white blonde ( maybe hairless ) in a lightening flash( maybe hairless ) in a lightening flash– forget lasers for the time being, they are perfected for forget lasers for the time being, they are perfected for

use in hair removaluse in hair removal