hair care - s3.amazonaws.com garnier dove florena avon yves ... italy according to industry body...

Europe: Top 5 body care brands by country

Total Big 5 France Germany Italy Spain UK

1 Nivea Nivea Nivea Nivea Deliplus Avon

2 Dove Yves Rocher Dove Dove Nivea Boots

3 Yves Rocher Mixa Balea J&J Dove Nivea

4 Neutrogena Neutrogena Yves Rocher Collistar Neutrogena Vaseline

5 Garnier Dove Florena Avon Yves Rocher Dove

Source: Kantar Worldpanel European Toiletries and Cosmetics Database (ETCD); for contact details see p185. Rankings refer to weighted penetration (% using)among men and women over the 12 months ended December 2009. For more information on this or on the UK market reports please contact BenjaminCawthray ([email protected]) or Roz Worcester ([email protected]) direct.

Europe: Top 5 hair care brands by country

Total Big 5 France Germany Italy Spain UK

1 L'Oréal L'Oréal Schauma L'Oréal Pantene Head & Shoulders

2 Pantene Head & Shoulders Nivea Pantene Deliplus Pantene

3 Head & Shoulders Fructis Head & Shoulders Fructis Head & Shoulders L'Oréal

4 Fructis Dop L'Oreal Sunsilk L'Oréal Alberto

5 Nivea Yves Rocher Wella Clear Fructis TRESemmé

Source: Kantar Worldpanel European Toiletries and Cosmetics Database (ETCD). Rankings refer to weighted penetration (% using) among women over the 12months ended June 2011. For more information on this contact Benjamin Cawthray ([email protected]) or Roz Worcester([email protected])

France According to Symphony IRI France, thehair care market is not exactly full of bounce atpresent as it slipped by 2.2% in the past year tot1.183bn from t1.209bn the previous year. Evensales of conditioners, normally an extremelypopular sub-sector in France, fell by 0.7% to totalt197.2m. But gains have been made in the area offamily shampoos which put on an impressive 11%to make t84.3m.

Germany The hair care category in Germanyalso made a loss in value terms, sliding by 0.9% tototal t1.59bn in 2010, according to data fromSymphony IRI Germany. However, hair care on itsown did inch up by 0.3% to account for t848.35mwhile hair styling plummeted by 1.8% to totalt439.63m. The last category of hair colourantsalso made a loss of 2.6% to make t307.12m.

Italy According to industry body Unipro, theItalian hair care market also fell by 2.3% to totalt1.15bn, accounting for a 15.1% share of the totalItalian C&T market. Shampoos, which arenormally one of the most steadfast categories, alsofell by 0.4% to make t490m while masks andconditioners dipped by 2.1% to total t152m. Thebiggest losses were recorded in the hair gels andwaters sub-sector as it slid 4.5% to total t71.96m.

Spain Figures from Symphony IRI Spain showthat the hair care category in the country fell by3% in the past year to total t748.6m. The sub-sector of shampoos fell by 3% to total t289m,though volume sales for this area did grow by 3%in turn in the largely affordable retail channel ofsupermarkets and hypermarkets. This suggests thatSpaniards now prefer to buy their shampoos withthe weekly shop rather than make a separate trip tothe perfumery or drugstore and indeed these retailchannels have seen a drop in volume sales over thepast year.

UK Things were faring better in the UK as thehair care market put on a robust 5.3% to total£1.16bn in 2010 while volume sales did fall by1.5% to make 509.48m units, according to KantarWorldpanel. Of the individual hair care categories,shampoo remained the largest, maintaining its32% market share and growing 4.9% year-on-yearwhile hair colourants, which command a 23.3%market share, grew by 11%. The conditionermarket remained steady at 21.7%, growing 1.2%,while women’s hairsprays grew 10.5% to take a10% market share.

HAIRCAREMARKET SUMMARY It hasn’t been a good year for the hair care category in the Big 5. Withthe exception of the UK, all countries experienced a loss in value terms. This is disappointing newsin a market which tends to be awash with innovation and npd but perhaps indicates that customersare just making cutbacks when it comes to their hair care and styling needs

August 2011 ECM 271

HAIR CARE MARKET REPORT

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France Taking therough withthe smooth

France: Hair care, colourants and styling markets, 2011*

wm %+/- Units m %+/-

Total hair care 895.5 -2.8 220.8 -1.6

Shampoos 436.7 -0.3 140.8 -1.1

Adult shampoos 339.4 -2.7 104.4 -1.9

Family shampoos 84.3 10.8 31.4 2.2

Children's shampoos 13.0 -3.3 5.0 -3.1

Conditioner/care products 192.7 -0.7 47.1 -0.3

Conditioners 141.8 -0.2 36.7 -0.1

Lotions 9.3 -13.4 1.9 -10.6

Care products 40.1 0.1 8.3 0.7

Masks 1.5 32.2 0.2 46.9

Colourants 259.0 -2.5 31.7 1.1

Highlights 5.6 -26.0 0.5 -20.7

Tone on tone 49.1 -1.6 5.0 -20.7

Permanent 170.5 -1.9 22.3 2.6

Decolourant 4.0 1.4 0.5 8.3

Brightening 14.7 -3.6 1.7 -4.3

Temporary 6.1 -9.1 0.8 -9.3

Others 9.0 5.6 0.9 8.8

Perms 7.1 -6.0 1.2 -6.0

Kits 4.2 -3.0 0.5 3.1

Liquids 2.9 -10.4 0.7 -11.3

Total hair styling 288.1 -4.3 65.0 -3.6

Styling products 188.5 -6.2 46.3 -4.3

Waters 3.2 -9.7 1.0 -8.2

Gels 94.8 -7.2 24.8 -3.7

Sprays 58.4 -7.0 12.9 -6.6

Mousses 26.2 -3.5 6.1 -3.1

Others 5.9 9.0 1.5 2.8

Hairsprays 99.6 -2.3 18.7 -2.9

Normal hold 27.7 2.5 4.9 0.6

Soft hold 0.1 -34.7 0.02 -46.5

Strong hold 50.0 0.9 9.4 0.8

Others 21.8 -13.6 4.4 -12.5

*sales through hyper/supermarket, year to 29 May 2011Source: Symphony IRI France

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experienced a 3.3% dip to an estimated t1.9bn,however this was seen as a brief stumble, saysStrutton: “In France colourants are one of the rarehair care categories to defy the declining market,growing steadily since 2006 and are set tocontinue to do so.” But it's conditioners that havereally shone through, growing by 2.5% to t414min 2010 (Mintel).

Strutton explains: “Thanks to the importance ofmasstige and prestige products, the French marketis by far the largest of the Big 5 with a value oft414m. This is in spite of French women havingthe lowest take-up (48%) and frequency of usingconditioners. After two consecutive years ofcontracting demand, the 2.5% growth registeredin 2010 is very good news. At the peak of therecession, women started to visit hair salons lessfrequently, bought at-home treatments anddowngraded to more affordable products, but now

With the latest mass market hair care productsbearing names such as Ultimate Repair and FullRestore it is clear where innovation is focused inthis market. So it's a pity that mass marketperformance for both the hair care and stylingcategories in France did not enjoy similarrestorative measures over the past year. The totalmarket slipped by 2.2% from t1.209bn in 2010 tot1.183bn by May this year, which shows that themarket is going through a downbeat phase.

According to Symphony IRI France, total haircare sales through hypermarkets and supermarketsfor the year to 29 May 2011 were down by 2.8%to t895.5m while hair styling sales fared evenworse, retracting by 4.3% to t288.1m. Even salesof conditioners, which in the year to 30 May 2010had grown by 2.6%, have since been damaged,falling by 0.7% to t197.2m. However it isinteresting to note where gains have been made –the small hair masks category grew by anexponential 32% to t1.5m, indicating thepopularity of the trend for deeper caringtreatments with consumers. Family shampoos alsofared well, gaining nearly 11% to t84.3m,possibly due to shoppers trying to cut the cost oftheir shopping basket with a sole shampoopurchase for their household.

The mass market may be the largest distributionchannel for hair care and styling products, takingapproximately 75% of sales, but it is by no meansthe whole story. Michelle Strutton, seniorconsumer analyst at Mintel comments: “TheFrench market is the most premium-oriented ofits European neighbours, with masstige andprestige brands, including salon marques, playingan important role.” According to industry sources,hairdressing salons account for as much as 12% ofhair product sales in France, followed bypharmacies and direct sales with 5% each and theselective market (perfumeries at 3%). And whilethe performance of the mass market wasn’t one toturn any heads, the pharmacy channel enjoyed amuch more glossy year. A spokesperson fromPhyto International Marketing says that“pharmacies grew by 1.2% in value and 2.44% in volume”.

According to Mintel, the overall picture is also alittle smoother. Strutton believes that theshampoo market benefited from “improvingconsumer confidence and managed to recordmodest growth in 2010”, up 0.3% to t678m.Styling, colourants and treatment products

MARKET REPORT HAIR CARE

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France: Retail value sales of hairstyling, colourants and treatments2006-2013

wm % share

2006 2,170 -7.6

2007 2,159 -0.5

2008 2,050 -5.0

2009 2,018 -1.6

2010 (estimated) 1,952 -3.3

2011 (forecast) 1,949 -0.2

2012 (projected) 1,919 1.5

2013 (projected) 1,912 0.4

Source: Mintel GMN

France: Retail value sales of shampoo,2006-2015

wm % share

2006 730 -2.0

2007 712 -2.5

2008 683 -4.1

2009 676 -1.0

2010 678 0.3

2011 (estimated) 678 0.0

2012 (forecast) 687 1.3

2012 (projected) 700 1.9

2014 (projected) 696 -0.6

2015 (projected) 703 1.0

Source: Mintel GMN

France: Retail value sales ofconditioners and treatments, 2006-13

wm % share

2006 400 1.0

2007 406 1.5

2008 399 -1.7

2009 404 1.3

2010 414 2.5

2011 (estimated) 406 -1.9

2012 (forecast) 414 2.0

2013 (projected) 423 2.2

2014 (projected) 434 2.6

2015 (projected) 446 2.8

Source: Mintel GMN, IRI/Mintel

August 2011 ECM 273Simplifyle 6

The repairingingredients in Phyto’snew Phytokératinerange include botanicalkeratin and hyaluronic acid to helpfortify the hair shaft

products for dry, ultra-dry and coloured hair. Thenumber of people with weakened, damaged haircontinually increases (one out of two women saythey have damaged hair) as there are more andmore external influences that alter the inner hairstructure: Mechanical (blow drying, straighteningtongs), chemical (colour treatments, bleaching)and environmental factors (sun, pollution, salt,wind).” The trend has spread from conditioners toshampoos, with many brands launching entireranges designed to help repair damaged hair.Strutton says: “Shampoos designed to prevent and treat hair damage have been among the bestperformers in recent years and, together withshampoo for dry hair, form the largest sector ofthe French shampoo market (22%).” As a result, ithas become increasingly important for brands tooffer comprehensive repairing benefits and thisyear many new product launches are focusing onoffering exactly this. Sylvie Mouchon, groupmarketing director of European hair styling salonoperator Provalliance notes: “In 2011 the trend isdeep care, with repair and anti-ageing ranges.”

Hair care repairPhyto is one such brand that is focusing on thisimportant trend with the launch ofPhytoKératine. The range of three products –Reparative Shampoo, Reparative ConditioningTreatment and Reparative Serum – drawsinspiration from the dermatological technique ofLipofilling with Kerato-Filler, an intra keratinfibre filler which is claimed to help restore theinner hair substance. The filler contains acombination of botanical keratin and hyaluronicacid, while the products also promise to work onthe cuticle to even out the surface of the fibre inorder to provide protection, with the help ofbotanical origin ceramides and pomegranateextract. Together, these four active ingredients acton both the inside and outside of the hair fibre toleave hair appearing more repaired and protected,supple and shiny.

The mass market has seen an influx of ultimaterepair products this year too, with L'Oréal Parislaunching Elsève Full Restore 5 60 SecondSaviour, an intensive conditioner that incorporatespro-keratin and ceramide to help replenish andreinforce hair fibres to leave them feeling strongerand more resistant. The soft formula is alsoclaimed to seal the cuticles and restore softness tothe hair and features a light, gel/cream texture anddelicate fragrance.

Nivea's (Beiersdorf) latest range includes bothhair care and styling products and is specificallytargeted to repair and strengthen long hair fromthe roots to the tips. According to Nivea, 50% ofFrench women have long hair so its new range,Nivea 1-2-3 Long Repair is designed tospecifically respond to their needs, correcting thedamage caused by brushing and hair bands. Theformula is enriched with keratin, babassu oil andoryzanol rice bran oil to help strengthen andsmooth hair and the range, which launched inJanuary, includes a shampoo, conditioner, one-minute mask, detangling spray, styling mousse,styling spray and hairspray.

feel more confident about the state of the nationaleconomy and their personal finances.” Thegrowth of the conditioner category provides amuch needed boost to a market that “is losingconsumers,” according to Phyto's spokesperson.“The big winners in the market are the ones withspecialised products, natural products andinnovative brands.”

Indeed, specialised products such as repairinghair care products have become increasinglysought after by consumers. Phyto's spokespersoncomments: “The market has become moresophisticated and demands more than just classic




Gliss (Schwarzkopf & Henkel) has adopted amore luxurious look for its Ultimate Repair line,with the black and gold packaging designed toproject a professional and high performanceimage. The formula is designed to intensivelyrepair extremely dry and broken hair by filling thespecifically damaged areas of the hair fibre,claiming to reduce hair breakage by up to 95%.Products include shampoo, conditioner, one-minute repairing mask and repairing gloss. Thebrand has also recently launched a repairing rangefor frizzy hair called Satin Relax comprising ashampoo, express conditioning milk and anti-frizz1 minute mask. The formula, with its anti-frizzcomplex and apricot kernel oil extract is said toleave hair looking smoother, more shiny andintensively repaired.

Dry hair is also a central focus for professionalhair care ranges, in fact for Matrix Biolage(L'Oréal) its nourishing range for dry hair,Hydrathérapie, is the brand's best selling rangeworldwide. This year the formula has beenimproved with more natural-inspired ingredientssuch as aloe vera and passionfruit to provideintensive nourishment, while the brand has alsolaunched two new star products: Aqua-ImmersionCrème Masque, providing rich, deepmoisturisation for dry hair to leave it moremanageable, shiny and protected; and Hydra-SealBrume Adoucissante, a light leave-in mist thatinstantly nourishes, softens and protects againstmoisture loss.

In keeping with the hair repair trend, hair oilsare making a comeback amongst premium brands,offering consumers a luxurious way to repair andnourish their hair. Many of the latest products aredesigned to be pampering salon-style treatmentsfor home use and some are versatile enough to beused on the skin as well as the hair. Roger &Gallet's Huile Sublime Bois d'orange is ahydrating hair, face and body spray, recentlylaunched in a new 30ml travel size while Kérastase(L’Oréal) Elixir Ultime Versatile Beautifying Oil isenriched with a complex of four oils and claims torepair, nourish and protect hair, leaving it shinyand soft. René Furterer's (Pierre Fabre) KaritéHuile Nutrition Intense, part of the brand'srecently launched shea butter hair care line, is atreatment designed to be used before shampooinghair to provide intense nutrition to helpregenerate the hair. The orange blossom fragranceand the richness of the oil are said to provide apleasurable experience. Other recent launches inthis vein include Shu Uemura Art of Hair EssenceAbsolue Nourishing Protective Oil and DiptiqueSatin Oil for body and hair.

Natural focusNatural and organic products have become a keydriver for product innovation within hair care andcontinue to grow increasingly important. “Naturalis back in the centre of innovation andcommunication,” says Phyto's spokesperson.“There is a tendency towards the innocuous: nosilicones, no parabens, no colourants, nosulphates. Product efficiency has become moreand more important and people tend to want to

know the ingredients and their concentrations inproducts.”

Certainly this trend has been heightened byvarious ingredients and product scares in themedia, with significant media attention beingdrawn to Brazilian hair straightening treatments inJanuary for reportedly containing high levels offormaldehyde. A number of products wereremoved from the French market containingformaldehyde in concentrations of between 0.61%and 5.87%, according to French health authorityAfsapps and DGCCRF (The French competition,consumption and anti-fraud authority), as this washigher than the 0.2% allowance stipulated in theEU Cosmetics Directive.

This sort of media attention raises consumerconcerns about ingredients and creates an idealsituation for brands focused on free from, naturalor organic formulations and treatment productsthat appear to be benefiting as a result. Mouchonsays: “The big trend in treatment is silicone-free,natural, or even organic, and consumers arewilling to pay a premium for this.”

Jean-Claude Biguine extended its organicBiguine Bio range as a direct response to thegrowth of the natural trend. Brian Feinman,marketing director explains: “People are more andmore concerned about green issues, aboutpreserving the planet, social responsibility and are more orientated towards organic products.The range is free from parabens, silicones and is100% natural. Increasing numbers of clientsappreciate these products.”

Groupe Planète Bleu has extended its Ecocert-certified Born to Bio line with an extra gentleshampoo formulated with Brazilian babassu oiland an organic shampoo with argan oil. Theproducts exclude parabens, glycol, phthalates,phenoxyethanol, colourants, colouring agents,silicones and PEGs. Meanwhile other brandshave relaunched their ranges with a moreauthentic natural positioning, such as theEcocert-certified Laboratoires Biocos LoveaBio Le Monoï moisturising conditioner,which was launched to replace theLaboratoires Serval Lovea Bio Monoi de Tahiti range. The new product isformulated with 100% natural ingredients,29% of which are organic. The paraben-freeconditioner is designed to hydrate hair,leaving it easier to comb.

Bright outlookAs many as two out of three French womencolour their hair so it is little wonder that thiscategory is larger in France than it is elsewherein Europe, valued at a staggering t612.9m in2009 according to Mintel. Strutton says:“Colourants are one of the rare hair carecategories to defy the declining market,growing steadily since 2006 and set tocontinue to do so after a brief stumble in2010.” Indeed, the response from the industryis positive for this year due to some innovativenew launches that are brightening the outlookfor the category. Feinman comments: “Thecolour category should grow this year as


Nivea’s 1-2-3 LongRepair targets the haircare needs of theapproximately 50% ofFrench women whohave long hair



leaving it smooth and shiny. Joining the shampooand conditioner is the star product of the line,Concentré Fixateur de Couleur, which helps torestore the natural waterproof qualities of the hairfor up to eight weeks, ensuring that the hair'scoloured pigments do not wash away as easily.Professional brand Sebastian (P&G) has exploreda new direction for colour protection productswith the new line Color Ignite since the range isdesigned to meet the specific needs of differenttypes of coloured hair. The Mono range is adaptedfor hair that is coloured in just one shade andMulti is suitable for hair that has been colouredwith several different shades or lightened.

According to an Institut GFK study for Le PetitMarseillais (L'Oréal), 11% of those women whocolour their hair look for products containingnatural ingredients. The brand's new range,Shampooing Eclat Couleur is well positioned toattract this group of women since the fiveproducts in the line are based on natural extractsof blueberry and safflower oil. Designed to protectand prolong hair colour while preserving its shine,products include a shampoo, conditioner, a leave-in conditioner, a three-minute mask and its starproduct Huile Protection Intense, an intensive oilwhich can be used before colouring, aftercolouring and to protect against dryness duringthe summer months.

Style and functionCompared to the home colour category, thestyling market has been looking a little bleak oflate, continuing to retract over the past year andlose customers – the category was down 4.3% tot288.1m in hypermarkets and supermarketsaccording to Symphony IRI France. Feinmanbelieves this is due to current trends: “People arebuying less styling products because a morenatural, wavy look is fashionable. Hairstyles areless fixed in place.” Despite this, manufacturers

some of the brand leaders have launched newfoam products that are easy to use and have alower price point than salon colour.”

Leading the way in foam colourants in France isL'Oréal Paris Sublime Mousse by Casting, whichclaims to be the new generation in homecolourants. The formula borrows from Japanesehome colourant trends where foam hair colour isthe fastest growing segment of the home colourmarket. The unique foam texture is applied bymassaging in like a shampoo and expands aroundthe hair to allow even coverage, withoutoverloading the hair. There are 11 shades availableand the non-drip product is delicately scentedwith a combination of blackcurrant sorbet, applenectar, freesia, velvet peach, raspberry and sweet amber.

Elsewhere, manufacturers have kept up the pacewith new colour protect shampoos, with Pantene(P&G) launching Pro-V Color Protect & Lisse,said to protect and prolong coloured hair while

Organic boostThis month salon chain Jean-Claude Biguine isextending its retail line of organic, 100% naturalorigin hair care products with five new shampoos,a conditioner and a mask. The brand's Cosmébio-certified Biguine Bio range originally launched in2008 and is sold through and used in the salons.ECM talks to Jean-Claude Biguine's marketingdirector, Brian Feinman, about the rising demandfor organic hair care in France

How important is it for a hair care brand to offeran organic range now in France?It's an important trend today and all sorts of brands– mass, multinationals, premium and professional –are launching their own organic and natural lines.People are concerned with their own health as wellas the environment in which they live and areaware of studies that say that some ingredientssuch as parabens are dangerous, especially on thescalp. Consumers today are well versed on theorganic subject which allows them to carefullyexamine labels and compare them with other traditional products.

What are consumers specifically looking forfrom natural and organic hair care products? Aremore consumers looking for organic productsover and above those with 'natural' claims?Consumers' main concern is to care for andnourish their hair and scalp by using the finestnatural botanical ingredients from plants, flowersand fruits as active ingredients in formulas. Theyare more aware of the differences between naturalproducts and organic products, and there aremany more articles in the press and in women'smagazines about it. Consumers are not fooled anymore.

How do you think the organic hair care andstyling market will develop in France?Organic lines have mostly been in hair care as it ismore difficult to create organic styling products.But organic styling products will develop and Iwould like our brand to get into this too. It's thesame for colour – it's a very big formulationchallenge to get colour that is natural and willstay. There is a long way to go, but it will happen.


Shampooing EclatCouleur is the new line-up from Le PetitMarseillais for womenwith coloured hair, andcontains extracts ofblueberry and safflower oil


The German hair care market, which includesall styling and colourant products, has been fairlystatic in the last year, putting in a somewhatlacklustre performance. According to figures fromSymphony IRI Germany, the hair care marketvalue slipped by 0.9% from t1.64bn in 2009 tot1.59bn in 2010.

Looking at value sales in more detail, hair careproducts (including shampoos, conditioners andtreatments) accounted for the vast majority of thetotal market with a 53.2% market share and worth

t848.35m. With a 27.6% market share, hairstyling products (including gels, creams, waxes,setting products and hairsprays) came next with atotal of t439.63m. And hair colourant productscame in third place with a 19.3% share of themarket, which was valued at t307.12m and thisincluded permanent, semi-permanent andtemporary colourant products. When it came tohow each sub-sector preformed, hair careproducts grew by 0.3%, while hair styling andcolourant products slipped by 1.8% and 2.6%respectively.

Volume wise things fared a little more positivelyinching up by 1.7% to climb from 217.6m units in2009 to 221.3m units last year. Looking at thesub-sectors, hair care products grew by 2.6% tototal 103.7m units, while hair styling productswere not so prosperous, sliding by 1.9% to make46.01m units. Hair colourants on the other handdid have a more vibrant year, putting on 3.1% toaccount for 71.53m units in volume terms. Interms of market share, while hair care productsstill dominated with a 45.3% market share,colourants actually came next in line here with33.4% leaving styling skus to take third place withjust 21.2%.


GermanyA staticsituation

have continued to innovate with Taft(Schwarzkopf & Henkel) launching ChaotiqueFix, the first mass market styling powder whichclaims to transform rapidly into an invisible, non-sticky texture for an instant matte look, and Niveadeveloping Vaporisateur Coiffant Invisible UltraStrong, a styling water which leaves hair lookingnatural but delivers long lasting hold. MeanwhileWella Professionals (P&G) has introduced anextensive collection of 23 styling products acrossthree ranges – Wet, Dry and Finish – rangingfrom natural to strong hold. Wella Professionals'global creative director, Eugene Souleiman,believes that the strength of the range is itssimplicity. “The method of using each product isspecifically explained in one or two sentences onthe package.” And prestige brand Shu Uemura Artof Hair has introduced Yokan Craft, a versatile,lightweight texturiser or ‘styling melt’ which canbe used on any type of hair, damp or dry.

While the French hair care, styling and colourmarkets have been awash with mixed fortunes overthe past year, the industry is positive about theyear to come. Mintel's 2012 projections indicatethat the market will enjoy a spurt of growth, andFeinman says: “I believe the market will grow thisyear due to new organic products, new colourproducts, and the fact that clients are buying moreproducts to do as treatments at home.”Manufacturers are also clear about whichsegments could drive future growth. Mouchonsays: “In terms of styling, we are looking towardssemi-permanent styling, for example the three orsix week smoothing kits launching under theLaScad license for Jean Louis David. Hair care isfollowing the same path as dermocosmetics, whichexplains the growth of anti-ageing products andthe interest in specific ethnic groups.” Phyto'sspokesperson believes that major innovations will

be developed for thinning hair and that growthwill also be driven by anti-ageing hair products,botanical colourants and cleaner formulas. Indeed,new products from Yves Rocher's Anti-ChuteShampooing Stimulant, which uses naturalvegetable extracts and works by stimulating blood circulation to the scalp in order toencourage hair growth, and René Furterer'sTonucia Sérum Tonus Redensifiant, an anti-ageingserum based on natural extracts and plant peptidessaid to leave hair looking thicker, are likely topique consumer interest and push the repair trendto the next level. Maybe if innovations like this areintroduced by mainstream brands, they could evenhelp to restore the receding mass market.

Wella Professionals’new collection of Wet,Dry and Finish stylingproducts offers 23products in total forconsumers to choose from




Drugstores do it againThe retail category threw up few surprises interms of where German consumers actuallypurchased their hair care items from, with the everpopular drugstore channel dominating with a62.5% share in 2010, ringing t996.75m worth ofbusiness through its cash registers. Hypermarketsand supermarkets of over 800sqm were in secondplace with a 25.3% share, worth t402.45m.Discounters including Aldi took an 8.6% slice ofthe market, worth t140.07m, while hypermarketsand supermarkets of less than 800sqm took a tiny2.6% market share which accounted for t42.59min sales and then the perfumery channel took theeven smaller 0.9% share with just t13.23m.

No German hair care report would be completewithout mentioning German behemothSchwarzkopf & Henkel with the first part of thebusiness not only being the biggest name in hair inGermany but one which is growing in prominenceevery year.

Schwarzkopf has rolled out many new productsin the past year across its many hair care andstyling brands, with the major launches starting inJanuary of this year.

The beginning of the year saw Schwarzkopfextend its popular Live Colour XXL line-up to 22shades, now ranging from platinum blonde todeepest black. There are three brand new shadesfor 2011, Plum Perfection, Rich Caramel and MaxBlonde, the formulas for which have been createdwith caring extracts of pomegranate and vitamin Cto nourish and soften the hair while it is coloured.

February saw five new skus make it to market.Powder’ful from the got2be styling range isclaimed to be the first styling powder on theGerman market and once shaken from the tin itcreates a matte, toussled look for all hair types.Next up were two new ranges in the Syoss brand;Smooth Relax is a hair care range for theconsumer wanting sleek hair, which contains ashampoo, conditioner and mask; and Hold &Smooth is the other range which comprises ahairspray, styling foam, anti-frizz lotion andsmoothing balm. Syoss also chose this time todebut Syoss Men which is the brand’s first evermale hair care and styling range, containing threeshampoos and four styling products.

Drei Wetter Taft’s Powerful Age is the newstyling product from the Taft line and has beencreated especially for thinning and older hair. Itcontains an extra dose of keratin to help repairdamaged strands promising thickness and hold.The latest addition to the Gliss Kur rangemeanwhile was Satin Relax. This range is suitablefor dry and frizzy hair and comprises a superhydrating shampoo, conditioner, leave-inconditioning spray and intensive treatment.Schwarzkopf claims that these products help hairstay frizz-free even in high levels of humidity.

And rounding out the new arrivals for Februarywere two new shampoos in the Schauma range,featuring superfruits goji berry and acai berry.SuperFruit Nourishing Care comprises oneshampoo with cranberry and goji berry and onewith acai berry and pomegranate.

In March, Schwarzkopf extended the Schauma

line further with the arrival of three new leave-inSchauma conditioning sprays for coloured, dry ordamaged hair respectively. There were also threenew got2be styling skus unveiled; Keep onRockin! comprised an extra hold hairspray, aspray-on dry shampoo and a hair gel. The bottlesare all in keeping with the trendy look of thisrange and are adorned with roses, hearts andvarious rock n’roll tattoo imagery.

In May, there were three new arrivals asSchwarzkopf continued to ratchet up its launchactivity. Syoss Mixing Colours is a new colourantrange with two matching shades which can bemixed together at home so customers can achievethe multi-tonal effect normally only obtained via asalon visit. May also saw a major brand relaunchfor the entire Gliss range with new packagingdesigns and new formulas. As part of this relaunchGliss Kur with Ultimate Repair was rolled out forextremely damaged hair. This range included ashampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner and


Germany: Total hair care, market value,2010, ym

Value %+/-

Total hair care (bn) 1.59 -0.9

Hair care 848.35 0.3

Hair styling 439.63 -1.8

Hair colourants 307.12 -2.6

Source: Symphony IRI Germany

Germany: Hair care, value breakdown,2010, ym

Value %+/-

Hair care 848.35 0.3

Shampoos 565.45 0.9

Conditioners 148.20 1.7

Treatments 102.76 -2.5

Tonics 31.92 -6.6


Germany: Hair styling, valuebreakdown, 2010, ym

Value %+/-

Hair styling 439.63 -1.8

Hairsprays 251.16 -0.8

Setting products 96.29 -2.8

Gels/creams/waxes 92.17 -3.5


Germany: Hair colourants, valuebreakdown, 2010, ym

Value %+/-

Hair colourants 307.12 -2.6

Permanent 6.73 -19.4

Semi-permanent 47.01 -10.0

Temporary 246.45 -0.3

Others 6.93 -16.7




three intensive treatments.The latest sku to arrive from Schwarzkopf this

year was Schauma’s Apple Blossom Shampoowhich forms part of a limited edition relaunch ofone of the brand’s best selling shampoo lines,which originally made its debut in 1977.

Upping the style stakesOver at P&G brand Wella, one of Schwarzkopf’smain competitors in the hair styling stakes, therewas also a good deal of activity.

January this year saw the arrival of Wella’s ProSeries range which aimed to directly compete withSchwarzkopf’s Syoss brand in that it offersconsumers salon-style hair products at non-salonprices. Prices are a very affordable t3.99-t5.99.

There are four sub-sectors within the Pro SeriesLine-up – Colour, Repair, Volume and Shine –with a shampoo and conditioner in each, both inthe popular 500ml format. There are also threestyling ranges – Volume, Strong Hold and MaxHold – each with a hairpsray and styling foam.The Volume range has an additional Volume HairMousse which the company claims is the first timea product with this texture has been launched inthe mass market in Germany. It has a liquidconsistency which transforms into an airy moussewhen the pump dispenser is activated. The MaxHold range also has an additional hair gel.

Nivea new arrivalsBeirsdorf has a wide range of hair productsavailable in Germany which sell nearly as well asits skin care and sun care offerings. There weretwo new debuts from the brand in the past year.

Up first was Nivea Colour Crystal Glossfeaturing pioneering liquid crystals which is a haircare and styling collection that protects colouredhair and leaves it looking as if it has been freshlydyed. With coloured hair more susceptible to wearand tear, colour wash out and styling damage, thisnew range aims to repair damage, provide shine,protect against UV rays, protect from heatedproducts and above all seal the colour into thehair. The liquid crystal technology is similar to thehair’s own lipids which replenish the health of thehair and which are very often missing in stressed

and damaged hair.Professor Frank Schwanke, head of product

development at Nivea Hair, comments: “We wentlooking for ingredients that could replace theselost lipids in order to compensate for any damagealready done. We were able to find liquid crystalswhich are structurally very similar to the lipidsthat are naturally found inside the hair shaft.

“These create a ray of iridescent colour andshine on the hair and are responsible for repairingdamage and maintaining lustrous shine. Theformula also contains an antioxidant compound ofrice oil, which protects the hair against damagecaused by free radicals, and a UV filter whichprotects the hair against the sun’s harmful rays bycreating a protective shield which also helps tominimise colour fade.”

The next offering from the Nivea stable came inthe form of new Style Freeze for Men, whichBeiersdorf claims is a “new styling range thatraises the bar with new formulas, new textures andnew designs”.

The Style Freeze range creates stable but elastichold for every single style which lasts and lasts,according to the company, with the idea being thatthe three new products literally ‘freeze’ anyhairstyle into place.

The new products also have new textureswhether it’s the thick gel consistency of FreezeExtreme Styling Glue or the cool, refreshingtingle of Freeze Crackling Styling Gel.

The first product comes in packaging


Wella’s new Pro Seriesrange comes in thepopular 500ml format tooffer Germanconsumers even bettervalue for money

Schwarzkopf — what are consumers buying?

Michael Kellner is vice president of marketing forSchwarzkopf & Henkel. He gives ECM a run downof which products are currently the most popularwith German consumers

“Hair care and hair styling are of importance toGerman consumers though our research shows thathair removal has sometimes been ranked as moreimportant than hair styling when it comes to whatthey prioritise.

“When looking at styling however, the areas ofextreme hold and added volume seem to rank highon their list and when it comes to what products ofours they use to do this, Drei Wetter Taft and Syossare our leading products.

“The most popular products for styling are DreiWetter Taft Power Gel, Drei Wetter Taft Power SprayBasic Power and Syoss Classic Mousse Volume.When it comes to hair care on the other handnormally our customers want something for all ofthe general areas including normal, dry andcoloured hair types. Our most popular shampooing products are Schauma SHP 7 Krauter, Syoss Classic Colour Protect and Gliss Kur Ultimate Repair.

“Conditioners which sell well include SchaumaClassic Repair & Care and Gliss Kur Express RepairLiquid Silk Gloss, and when it comes to treatmentproducts consumers like Gliss Kur Glanz Tonic TotalRepair 19 and Syoss One Minute Moisture.”



reminiscent of an ice cube and offers theconsumer an extremely strong formula for themaximum level of hold with an alcohol-freeformula. The second product crackles and tinglesas soon as it comes out of the bottle for a newsensorial experience and extra hold for hair.

There are also two other new products, the firstbeing Style Freeze Elasto Power Styling Gelwhich has elastic-like fibres which stretch just likechewing gum to give hair a more moveable, elastichold. Lastly, Freeze Shampoo contains aninnovative, cooling formula with refreshing limeextract to cleanse the hair with a long lasting hit of freshness.

Nourishing protectionOne key launch of last year came from Unileverbrand Dove which rolled out the new DoveNourishing Oil range in October of last year. Thisis a range of products designed specifically torevive dry, rough and frizzy hair which boasts thebrand’s innovative Weightless Nutri-Oils System.This blend of natural almond and coconut oilspenetrates the hair shaft rapidly to replenish andnourish dry hair from within, smoothing up to100% of the hair’s surface to lock in moisture andcontrol frizz, according to Unilever. The newrange, which includes a shampoo, conditioner andexpress treatment conditioner, builds on therecent relaunch of the Dove Hair Therapy range.

Marlies Möller, which was sold by Beiersdorf toAustria’s Troll Cosmetics in December, had twokey roll-outs in March. These were Daily RepairRich Shampoo and Repair Oil Treatment whichboth contain passionflower oil and gold ofpleasure oil to lend the hair a silky, shinyappearance which makes it easier to comb andstyle as well as protecting the hair from damagingenvironmental influences. The main premise of

the range is to protect hair from drying out. Daily Repair Rich Shampoo provides intensive

care for dry and brittle hair as well as lending it ashimmering shine. The active ingredient,polymoist, provides additional moisture tostrengthen the hair and give it new resilience. Theshampoo can be used every day and is particularlysuitable for sensitive scalps, according to thecompany.

The Repair Oil Treatment gives hair shine andsuppleness as the passionflower and gold ofpleasure oils envelop the hair strands, repair thedamaged structure and provide repairingnutrients, without a sticky, oily residue. This is atwo-phase product that combines the ingredientsin both oil and water which should be mixedtogether by shaking the bottle before application,says Marlies Möller.

According to recentdata from SymphonyIRI Germany, the haircare and stylingmarket in the countryhas been somewhatstatic in the past year,but this was not thecase when it came toinnovation and newlaunches. Hair care andstyling is one of the areaswhere Germancompanies really exceland they proved this with the wide range ofskus that made it tomarket. Hopefully withthis level of activitycontinuing, the figures will soon catch up.

Locking in moisture at Marlies Möller

Dr Harald Albrecht, left, is director of corporateproduct development at Marlies Möller. He talks toECM about what benefits using Daily Repair RichShampoo and Repair Oil Treatment will bring

Why did you choose to use passionflower and goldof pleasure oils in the new products?Both of these intensively nourishing oils contain avery high degree of essential fatty acids. We callthem dry oils because they are very caring and yetthey are non-greasy. In addition these oils are rich invitamins A, C and E.

How should the Repair Oil Treatment be used?It all depends on the condition of the hair. If the hairis very dry from a chemical treatment or from beingexposed to the sun then the consumer should use itas a nourishing repair treatment. If the consumer hasvery dry, thick or curly hair then it should be appliedafter every shampoo.

Why is this product a two-phase product?Basically one phase is for moisture and the othercontains the caring oils and only by mixing them

together will you obtain the optimum results for thehair. Passionflower and gold of pleasure oils are inthe oil phase, as is vitamin E to protect againstantioxidant stresses.

The counterbalance is the water phase, withmoisturising glycerin, heat protection and UVfilters. In both cases the ingredients are bedded inthe phase that allows them to develop best.

This range aims to combat dry hair. Are womenthe primary sufferers of this complaint?No, both men and women can inherit this tendencyand in addition men also wash their hair slightlymore often than women do which can have aneffect. They also colour their hair and expose it tothe same environmental stresses that women doon a daily basis.

And, in comparison to women, men use morestyling products on their relatively short hair butthey seldom brush the products out of their hair inthe evening which is a bad habit. All of thesefactors can lead to dry hair so men also need touse repairing hair care and styling products in orderto take care of it.


Nivea’s Style Freezerange creates hair carehold which is stable andelastic at the same timefor use on manydifferent hair types


In 2010 hair care and hair styling ranked inthird place in the Italian C&T market, behindbody care and facial skin care and holding a 15.1%share of the total market. Last year the categoryfell by 2.3% to a value of t1.155bn, according toindustry body Unipro, however insiders believethat demand for hair products remains on the risein Italy, as both the increased media spend onthese products and the level of creativity employedby brands is evident. Hair styling though is reallysuffering as a category, given that many adultshave shown environmental and health concernsabout using the products. Teenagers are the onlysegment to still crave these products in Italy butgiven that they don’t really have the purchasingpower to afford them, the benefits they bring tothe category are limited.

No surprise then that last year value sales for allhair styling products slid, while the mostpurchased product remained hairsprays (41%),followed by gels (32.6%), mousses (21%) andother products (5.5%) according to Unipro.

Shampoos have become less dominant in thewhole category compared to previous years, with amarket value of t490m which represents a 0.4%dip on the previous year. The same can be said ofpost-shampoo treatments including masks andconditioners, down by 2.1% to t152m. Dyes andcoloured mousses were also down, by 3.1% to totalt242m. The biggest losses were recorded in theliquid gels category which slid down 4.5% on theprevious year’s performance to total t71.96m. Theother sector that suffered was fixers and mousseswhich lost around 6.2% to total t43.52m. Massdistribution, especially via supermarkets andhypermarkets, remained the preferred purchasingchannel for Italians when it came to hair care andhair styling.

In terms of brands the Italian panorama didn’tchange much from the previous year, with L’OréalItaliana Saipo being once again the market leader,holding a 46% value share thanks to its numerousbrands that target a variety of consumers andneeds. The next most successful brand was P&G’sPantene while Schwarzkopf & Henkel’s Gliss wasalso extremely popular among Italians in third.

In Italy recent fashion has dictated thatvoluminous hairstyles were the big thing, so manyproduct launches were influenced by this trend.

Pantene Pro-V launched the Corpo & Volume(body & volume) range featuring six new products

from Corpo & Volume Shampoo, to the Corpo &Volume Balsamo conditioner and the Corpo &Volume Spuma Volumizzante Tenuta Extra Fortemousse (extra strong hold). Corpo & VolumeShampoo is said to remove all residue that canmake the hair feel heavy. The range also featuresthe Lacca Volumizzante (Tenuta Flessibile), thenew Pantene hairspray said to give the final touchto a voluminous hairstyle. Last year Italian brandCielo Alto (Soco) also focused on the trend forvolume, bringing out products like the GelEcologico Volumizzante Effetto Bagnato in a new150ml format. Cielo Alto also launched the CieloAlto Ecologico Volumizzante Shampoo which isclaimed to cleanse hair gently giving body andvolume to even the finest hair.

Thin on topIn 2010 hair loss treatments were ironically one ofthe fastest growing categories in the Italian haircare market, recording a 7% growth in value termswhile also performing very positively in volumeterms. The increase in unit price stood at about1% while the offer in this department was keptvaried and innovative both for men and women.

Vichy’s Dercos line (L’Oréal) features productsdedicated to anti-dandruff, volumising, dermo-soothing, normalising and restructuring hair. InItaly the brand is best known for anti-hair losstreatments and products. Dercos shampoos aremarketed as products that intensify the effects ofthe treatments while providing additional benefits.For instance the Shampoo VolumizzanteCoadiuvante promises to give up to 34% volumeto fine hair in three weeks. This is said to be theideal accompaniment to the anti-alopeciatreatment Trattamento anti-caduta DERCOSAminexil SP94 donna (for women). The shampoofeatures the active SP94, a molecule that accordingto Vichy is able to transform itself while in the hairroot to recharge the hair withenergy. Thanks to this process themolecule produces a dense andthick fibre that once released helpspromote hair regrowth. The textureof the shampoo is purposelylightweight so that the hair does notbecome heavy.

Among the treatments to preventalopecia, Dercos has also launchedDercos Aminactif Filler, claimed torepair hair and stimulate naturalgrowth for women with long tomedium length hair.

For best results, the company adviceis to spray the treatment onto the scalpand then massage it through the fulllength of the hair while adding furtherproduct on the ends. Aminexil SP94Donna for women meanwhile featurespolyphenols, described as antioxidantsthat protect hair from free radicals, andpro-keratin, a mix of amino acids knownfor their strengthening properties.More importantly the productfeatures the patented molecule


ItalyLosing itsshine



Aminexil 1.5% said to prevent hair from fallingout. Dercos Aminactif is also available in pill form,as nutricosmetics have become increasinglyassociated with hair health.

Beside pills, anti-hair loss treatments also tookother forms and shapes, including patches. At theend of October last year, Revlon Professionallaunched a new patch said to be the ultimate anti-hair loss treatment. Intragen 5 Patch, the newanti-hair loss treatment patches from the companyare said to be an easy and handy solution for thosewho have a busy and frenetic lifestyle. They havebeen created to gradually release the activeprinciples they contain so that they penetrate fasterand for longer compared to traditional products.According to the company they not only offer aquick solution for consumers who can’t bebothered to stick to a daily application routine butare also safer as possible negative effects of theproduct, such as skin reactions, can be sorted outimmediately by removing the patch.

Slowing the signsAnother trend largely embraced by hair caremanufacturers last year was anti-ageing, with

several brands putting out new products dedicatedto keeping hair young and strong.

Redken Time Reset (L’Oréal) was greatlyappreciated by Italian consumers with its productsdedicated to hair weakened by the passing years.Products feature the line’s Vital 5 Complex, acombination of five components each said to takecare of a particular sign of hair ageing. Thepatented Intra-Clayne formula is said to giveequilibrium back to the outer layer of the hair;peptides and ceramides are claimed to reinforcethe hair fibre while repairing weak or fragile ends;green tea is known for its action against freeradicals due to its antioxidant properties; camelliaoil is said to reinstitute natural hair wetness; andfinally the cationic UV filter is used to protectagainst damaging environmental factors includingUV rays.

In the mass market, Nivea (Beiersdorf) also triedto address the signs of ageing – those caused bystress in particular – offering two new productsthat promise to repair and regenerate hair thatlooks worn out. The Nivea Shampoo IntenseRepair Capelli Stressati claims to do exactly that,while the corresponding conditioner is also


The attraction of argan oilArgan oil was extremely popular last year in Italywith a number of brands putting out products thatfeatured it, including Canadian-based Moroccanoilwho developed an ultra light, non-greasy formula toensure luminosity for all hair types giving hair a silkyfinish. The Moroccanoil treatment claims torestructure hair damaged by chemicals contained inshampoos and colouring products.

Meanwhile, Amargan Hair Therapy Oil alsofeatures an ultra lightweight formula said to be idealfor all hair types. Distributed only in professionalsalons, the product is said to increase hair dryingtime by up to 40% while also reducing split endsand fragile hair. Another benefit of this product is itsability to protect against both environmental andchemical polluting effects and it can be appliedbefore or after styling.

Kérastase (L’Oréal) also made use of argan oiland maximised its properties by mixing it withanother three oils. In October the companylaunched Kerastase Elixir Ultime that is inspired by

ancient rituals and is said to be ‘an elixir of beautyfor the hair’. Kerastase Elixir Ultime works via acombination of argan oil, seed corn oil andpracaxi oil. This patented combination, calledTecnologia Kérastase Elixir Ultime Oleo-Complexe, is said to protect and repair hair both when applied before cleansing and usedbefore styling, when it’s said to leave hair soft and protected. The treatment can also be appliedas a finishing touch, making hair extra supple and shiny.

Used for years by women in Morocco, argan oilhas traditionally been considered a beautytreatment for hair, skin and nails. The Argan treegrows uniquely in the south west of Morocco inthe province of Argan in the desert, where itproduces luxurious fruits similar to olives butbigger and rounder. Argan oil is extracted from thealmond-shaped stones that are inside the fruitand feature fatty acids and are rich in tocopherolwhich revitalises and renews damaged hair.


Italy: Hair care, market value, 2010, €m

Pharmacies Perfume Other Of which Total %+/-Shops channels super-hyper

Total hair care & hair styling 148.15 88.94 917.41 539.99 1.154(bn) -2.3

Shampoos 80.18 15.10 396.67 231.53 491.96 -0.4

Lotions 47.10 2.38 17.15 9.44 66.63 -3.1

Dyes & coloured mousses 11.91 39.61 190.88 105.00 242.41 -3.1

Hairsprays 0.53 7.78 78.23 43.41 86.55 -2.9

Post-shampoo treatments/ 7.90 12.69 131.45 87.33 152.04 -2.1

Fixers & structuring mousses 0.15 4.44 38.93 21.61 43.52 -6.2

Gels/liquid gels/gums 0.54 7.33 64.10 41.66 71.96 -7.5

Source: Unipro

balsams/masks




available – Balsamo Intense Repair CapelliStressati. The Biosoft System they both featurereportedly helps regenerate hair from within actingon the hair follicle and preventing the ends from splitting.

Salon selectionOn 18 May this year, Unipro presented a newversion of the cosmetics market report that it firstintroduced at Cosmoprof Bologna in April.Compiled through a series of interviews conductedwith a sample of cosmetics companies andconsumers, the new report is meant to give a morearticulate view of the C&T industry in Italy andthe hair care and salon sector takes centre stage inthe updated report.

The report indicates that Italian hair salonshaven’t yet recovered from the decline theyunderwent in 2008.

However, according to Monica Corti, brandmanager for Everline (RCM Italia): “Salons,especially those of a certain level where bespokeservices are given, have seen business slightlyimprove in the last year, up by 10%, and sales ofsalon hair care products have also increasedconsequently. However it remains difficult to makea prediction for the future given the economicinstability and the trouble the salon segment wentthrough recently.”

According to a spokesperson at Jean Louis David(JLD), one of the most popular salon chains andprofessional hair product manufacturers in Italy:“The market for hair care in general in 2010 hasbeen characterised by a performance with ups anddowns in which strategies had to be adapted withina short time. The main trend has been the numberof visits consumers pay to salons, which we haveseen continue throughout 2011, and consequentlythe contraction of services too.”

With regards to the salon business in particular,she says: “With a lot of satisfaction our companyhas been able to deal with the problems in themarket. Even in this difficult year, our salons havebeen able to grow by 90% on 2009. There aredifferent reasons for this including the fact that wehave been a guarantee of quality for consumers forover 30 years and we also are innovative, bringingout new products every year.”

Hair care brands had to find their own way todeal with consumers’ diminished visits to the salon.JLD says it had two main ways of keeping afloat:“First we offer products that are suitable for allkinds of hair; second, we retrain our stylists everythree months so that they increase theirprofessionalism when presenting the benefits ofour products to customers.”

JLD meanwhile says its most popular item in thepast year was the Brush Cream in its Urban Styleline, a product that makes brushing easier whileproviding shine to all hair types. It can be usedevery day to keep hair soft and shiny.

In 2010 the company launched the 100% Repairrange, specific for sensitive and damaged hair andfeaturing vitamins A, C and E, said to nourish theheart of the hair fibre and prevent dehydration.Meanwhile the new line 100% Control was createdfor greasy scalps and dehydrated ends.

Despite the challenges it’s clear howmanufacturers are really upping their offer in orderto revitalise the professional hair care category inItaly, and with such variety available hopefullyconsumers will be a bit more daring in the comingmonths which will help the sector to flourish.

Safety firstIn November last year Schwarzkopf & Henkelbrought its new Essensity collection to market, claimed to provide ‘100% performance,0% compromise’. The company aimed to offerconsumers hair care and hair styling products thatprovide safe and effective formulas while beingbased exclusively on natural principles andenriched with pure biological essences. In itsformulas, the company left out a long list of‘baddies’ including artificial fragrances, silicones,parabens and mineral oils.

The Essensity range comes in four versions:Essensity Color, Essensity Moisture, EssensityVolume and Essensity Repair. And by December oflast year the company had also put on the shelvesthe accompanying hair styling products in theEssensity line, also formulated with naturalingredients. Essensity Fixing Spray, EssensityCrema Volume and Essensity Siero Natural Shineare are just three of the hair styling products thatthe company launched. Meanwhile, following thecatwalk revival of curls and waves, Schwarzkopflaunched the line Bc Curl Bounce, said to ‘provide100% elastic curls after the first application’.

The formulation features nourishing ingredientslike extract of cactus flower and the polymerpolyquaternium 72. The new range features theShampoo Bc Curl Bounce, Balsamo Bc CurlBounce (conditioner), Lozione Energizzante BcCurl Bounce (a conditioner in a spray format),Butter Treatment Bc Curl Bounce and CremaRicci Bc Curl Bounce (an intensive cream).

Last year manufacturers in Italy continued toride the natural hair care wave receiving a goodresponse especially as many consumers have beenvery vocal about their doubts when it comes tousing too many chemicals. Therefore this remainsan area where real growth is still possible for the future and R&D into natural and organic haircare products might turn out to be the answer toreviving a segment that is currently prettylacklustre in Italy.

Schwarzkopf & Henkel’snew Essensity line-uphas been popular withItalian customers whowant to use naturalingredients on their hair




While demand for FMCG goods seems to beslowly picking up in Spain, consumers are stilltending towards lower priced goods as the difficulteconomic situation continues to be felt. This trendis echoed in sales for hair care products over thepast year. Figures from Symphony IRI Spainreveal that sales of shampoos, conditioners,lotions, dyes and styling products fell by 3% tot748.6m in the year to 29 May 2011. Comparedto the same period in the previous year, however,volume rose by 2% to 103.4m units. The biggestcategory in this sector, with an almost two fifthsmarket share, is shampoo. Over the 52 weekperiod, sales for shampoos fell in value terms by3% to t289m, as volume increased by the sameamount to just over 44m units. However, thisvolume growth took place in hypermarkets andsupermarkets, according to Symphony IRI, where3% more shampoo was bought than in theprevious year. This suggests that Spaniards areopting to buy their shampoos with the weeklyshop, rather than making a separate trip to thespecialist perfumery or drugstore. These outletsreported a drop in sales volumes over the 12month period.

According to research firm Kantar Worldpanel,the Spanish FMCG sector as a whole has picked up in recent months, although notsufficiently to offset the fall in sales at the start ofthe year.

Finding an alternativeWhile food sales have fallen, the picture forcosmetics is more positive butthere is nonetheless a trendtowards products that focus onprice. “The factor with themost direct influence onFMCG markets is inflation,”says a spokesperson for KantarWorldpanel. “Consumersrespond to this not only byholding back on shopping, butalso by opting foralternative,cheaperproducts suchas those fromoutletsfocused ondiscount orown label

products.” In terms of volumes sold, private labelis a significant player in hair care. In shampoos, itaccounts for almost as much as the two leadingcompanies, Procter & Gamble and L’Oréal,combined. In conditioners, almost one in everytwo sold is a private label item. In terms of salesvalue however, P&G and L’Oréal between themaccounted for almost 60% of sales, or somet167.9m in the 12 months to the end of May. Oneexample of a retailer seeking to take advantage ofthe move towards own label products is El CorteInglés, with its Veckia line that launched earlierthis year. The line includes shampoos suitable forall hair types among the 200 products available.

Within the hair care category, colouring andstyling products account for some 41% of sales.Symphony IRI Spain figures reveal that the valueof sales for hair colouring products has remainedrelatively flat at around t165m, while stylingproduct sales dropped by 7% to t140.2m in thepast year. The most popular styling product forSpaniards remains hairspray, which now accountsfor 42% of sales in this category. Between 2010and 2011, gel and mousse sales have shrunk so thatthey now represent a smaller share of a smallercategory. According to STANPA, the SpanishNational Association for Perfumes and Cosmetics,hair care accounts for around 23% of all cosmeticsproducts sold in the country.

In this sub-category, Giorgi (LaboratoriosGenesse) has recently revamped its range of gels,hairsprays and mousses. The new look range nowincludes the Control Total X-trema Gel that issaid to be water and sweat-resistant, two spraysand a fixing mousse for curly hair. MultinationalSalerm Cosmetics meanwhile has also introducedHi Repair Hair Spray that it says repairs hair andprotects it against the rays of the sun and uses thebotoxplus system to repair damaged hair.

A colourful marketAmong the hair colouring productsto hit the market in the last year is

the castaño claro (light auburn)product from Wella’s Kolestintline (P&G). This latestaddition to the home hair

colouring range is designedto last six weeks with thesame intense colour. In asimilar vein, John Frieda(Kao Brands) has launchedGo Blonder Spray in itsSheer Blond range, whichlightens hair in a less

aggressive way than someother products by using amore acidic pH. It has

SpainBattle of thebrands

Spain: Hair care, market value andvolume, 2010-2011*

Total %+/-

Value (Hm) 748.622 -3%

Units (m) 103.389 2%

*52 weeks to 29 May Source: Symphony IRI Spain

Gliss Ultimate Repairfrom Schwarzkopfoffers the user a triplekeratin complex torepair hair that isstressed and damaged


been developed for those two thirds of womenwith blonde hair who, according to Kao, desire tobe even blonder. Nelly Color (LaboratoriosBelloch) has also released a new bamboo-enrichedrange that has no ammonia and offers protectionagainst the effects of the sun. “An unctuous gel,without ammonia and an easy application,strengthens the hair during colouring,” says thecompany.

And it’s not just women who are being targeted.L’Oréal has unveiled a new product for Spanishmen, particularly those in their 30s and early 40s.While men are likely to be more reticent thanwomen on colouring their hair, perhaps for fearthat it will be too obvious or look unnatural,Excell 5 is a five minute treatment that helps tohide grey hairs without affecting the hair’s naturalpigmentation. The cream does not containammonia and is available in six different coloursranging from dark brown to a dark shade ofblonde.Another new product that is seeking tostrengthen hair and reduce hair loss is Vitaforce(Llongueras). Containing extracts of hops androsemary, Vitaforce is composed of a shampoo anda treatment that is said to reinforce hair byneutralising free radicals, stimulating circulationto boost the nutrients that get into cells, while theantibacterial properties of silicone extract reduceexcess sebum in the scalp.

According to tests carried out on behalf ofLlongueras by the Institute of Skin and ProductEvaluation in Milan, using the product increaseshair thickness by some 22% in both men andwomen. TRESemmé (Alberto Culver),meanwhile, has introduced a product onto theSpanish market that uses polymers, collagen andsilk proteins for a big hair look all day long. 24Hour Body is a complete range of shampoos andconditioners, as well as styling products that aredesigned to protect hair against humidity.

Protection and reparation are also key featuresof a new range from Schwarzkopf & Henkel. GlissUltimate Repair introduces the new Liquid HairRepair technology with a triple liquid keratinformula to repair damaged hair and is available infour references. Using the shampoo andconditioner together is said to reconstruct the hairand reduce hair breakage by 95%. The range alsoincludes a mask and a treatment that is applied todry or towel-dried hair without the need forrinsing. “Liquid Hair Repair is the ideal way torescue extremely damaged hair, because thekeratin modules have an identical structure to thehair and penetrate damaged areas to reach thosethat are most in need of repair,” says the company.

La Toja (Schwarzkopf & Henkel), meanwhile,has entered the hair care market with its CapilarSPA range that uses thermal minerals from theisland of La Toja, off the north west coast ofSpain. Three ranges of the La Toja hair careproducts, each consisting of shampoo, conditionerand mask, are now available: Hydra-Brillo forshine; Reparación for damaged hair; and Color fordyed hair.

Naturally does itNatural ingredients are certainly important when

it comes to hair care products in the Spanishmarket. The reformulated Herbal Essences range(P&G) uses water activated ingredients. Whenthe products come into contact with water, thepolymer and silk compounds they contain start towork on the hair to make it shiny and soft. Thenew formula is used across the seven HerbalEssences ranges. P&G has also introduced a newversion of its Head & Shoulders anti-dandruffshampoo for women. Launched in time for thesummer season, the four products in the range aresaid to work on any damage caused to the hair andscalp caused by the sun, sea and chlorinated water.

Fructis (Garnier) has also introduced an anti-dandruff range, while Pantene (P&G) has broughttwo new lines onto the market – one for dyed hairand another that is inspired by popular spatreatments.

On a final note, the Aussie hair care range is setto arrive in Spain this autumn. P&G is bringingfive lines to complement the core 3 MinuteMiracle Conditioner. Three different ranges willbe available: Miracle Hydration, Frizz Miracleand Colour Miracle. Based on natural ingredients,these products seem set to fit in well with theSpanish market for hair care and underlinemanufacturers’ commitment to new brands, aswell as investment in the existing productoffering. The continued investment wouldsuggest that the brands are looking to be in astrong position as the economy starts to pick upand perhaps they will be able to lure someconsumers back from own label products.



Head & Shoulders andLa Toja have bothlaunched new hair careproducts onto theSpanish market in thepast year

Spain: Hair care, market value by product category, wm

May 2010 %share May 2011 % share

Shampoos 296.800 38 289.049 38

Dyes & colourants 164.888 21 165.60 22

Gels/mousses/hairsprays/ 151.089 20 140.200 19

Conditioners 146.037 19 140.543 19

Hair lotions 13.154 2 13.224 2

Source: Symphony IRI Spain

waxes


UKMakingheadlines

UK: Hair care, % share, 2010-2011

52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-Sector 18 Apr 10 17 Apr 11

Conditioners 22.6 21.7 1.2

Hair colourants 22.1 23.3 11.0

Home perms 0.1 0.1 6.5

Male/female styling 14.4 13.8 0.8

Shampoos 32.1 32.0 4.9

Women’s hairsprays 8.7 9.1 10.5

Source: Kantar Worldpanel

The UK hair care and styling marketscontinued their run of positive growth with a5.3% boost in sales in 2010, reaching a total of£1.16bn. Volume growth was more subduedhowever, slipping 1.5% to total 509.489m units.Consumers trading up to more premium brandsand the continued growth in larger bottle sizes,driven by consumers’ continued search for greatervalue for money, may have impacted growth here.

Of the individual hair care categories, shampooremained the largest, maintaining its 32% marketshare and growing 4.9% year-on-year. Haircolourants, which command a 23.3% marketshare, grew 11%. The conditioners marketremained steady at 21.7%, growing 1.2%, whilewomen’s hairsprays grew 10.5% to take an almost10% market share. The male and female stylingcategory stalled however, growing just 0.8% totake 13.8% total market share.

Following a drop off in salon visits 12 monthsago, the professional market appears to haverallied too. “The salon market definitely seems tobe in healthy growth at the moment and salonsthat offer a unique experience and strongcustomer service are continuing to grow despitethe recession,” says Claire Linney, marketingmanager, Aveda UK & Ireland. “We have seensteady growth in the number of visits each guestmakes to the salon and in sales as guests recognisethe value of professional products and well-being.”

Demand for treatments in the salon is evolvingtoo, according to Linney. “The Aveda Institute in Covent Garden has seen a big resurgence incustomers wanting their hair done – up dos and big blow drys for the weekend or a night out,” she explains.

Home comfortsAnd as consumers have become moreexperimental with their hair care and stylingroutines, brands have come to their aid with a slewof new launches. Product development has beenfast and furious over the last 12 months, with evengreater segmentation in the product offer. Aninteresting trend has been the number of launchesoffering results claimed to recreate salontreatments for home use.

Charles Worthington (PZ Cussons) has takeninspiration from Brazilian hair straighteningprocedures available in salons to launch the SalonAt Home Straight & Smooth kit, a semi-permanent at home straightening treatment,

which claims to leave hair straighter and smootherfor up to 40 days. The system containscysteamine, an active ingredient that relaxes curlsand waves, ‘re-programming’ the bonds in the hairand preventing any frizz or curl even in humidconditions and reducing the need for hair dryingor straightening to keep hair sleek and straight.Argan oil, antioxidant vitamin E and nourishingproteins help keep hair smooth, soft andmanageable, says the brand.

August 2011 ECM 285


UK: Hair care, market value & volume,2010-2011

52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-18 Apr 10 17 Apr 11

Total market

Value (£bn) 1.1 1.16 5.3

Volume (units m) 517.2 509.4 -1.5

Hair colourants

Value (£m) 244.4 271.4 11.0

Volume (units m) 620.0 637.7 2.9

Shampoos

Value (£m) 355.8 373.1 4.9

Volume (units m) 199.9 197.2 -1.4

Conditioners

Value (£m) 249.9 252.8 1.2

Volume (units m) 130.9 126.0 -3.8

Total styling

Value (£m) 256.0 267.4 4.5

Volume (units m) 123.9 122.0 -1.5


Simplifyle 6

UK: Hair colour, % share, 2010-2011

52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-Sector 18 Apr 10 17 Apr 11

Bleaches/ lighteners 2.7 2.4 -11.3

Colour restorers 0.5 0.6 8.2

Permanents 82.6 83.9 5.4

Semi-permanents 2.1 1.7 -17.0

Sprays 0.1 0.1 -7.1

Temporary rinses 1.1 1.1 0.8

Tone-on-tone 10.8 10.2 -5.1


/streaking kits



Similarly, Kao Brands’ John Frieda launchedFrizz-Ease 3-day Straight which is claimed to be asafer alternative to permanent hair straighteningprocedures and provides a semi-permanent stylingaction that lasts for up to three days and againsteight hours’ worth of humidity. According to thecompany, women with frizzy hair can spend up to104 hours a year styling their hair straight but itusually starts to curl and frizz again in just a fewhours. The product features keratin and a heatactivated polymer technology.

Kerry Warn, international creative consultantfor John Frieda, says: “Women with frizzy hairwork hard to keep their hair straight, smooth andfrizz-free but frustratingly those perfect resultsnever last for more than a few hours and all thateffort goes to waste. With Frizz-Ease 3-dayStraight Styling Spray the hair is easy to style andit remains smooth and straight for longer – adream come true for so many women.”

The brand has also addressed the problem ofroot touch ups. Sheer Blonde Go BlonderControlled Lightening Spray is said to be perfectfor blending the roots between salon visits. Likethe Frizz-Ease 3-day Straight Styling Spray, JohnFrieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder ControlledLightening Spray is heat activated and for bestresults should be used with a hair straightener or curling tongs after blow drying, according tothe company.

Lastly the brand has launched LuxuriousVolume Anytime Refresher Spray, which provideson-the-go hair freshness and volume without theneed to wash hair.

Dry spellDry shampoos have seen a huge jump in sales in2010 – according to Kantar Worldpanel salesjumped an astonishing 136.3% year-on-year toreach £3.6m, as this relatively small sector entersthe mainstream. Breaking the shampoo sectordown further, conventional shampoos grew 3% toreach £82.7m in sales, while 2-in-1 productsmanaged just a 1% growth to £13.7m.

Linney notes that less than 50% of UK womenuse a shampoo daily, creating even more potentialfor this burgeoning sector.

“Women often have twice as many bottles inthe bathroom as they currently use and on averagewill use a treatment once a week and stylingproducts twice a week,” she adds.

Luigi Murenu, global creative consultant forJohn Frieda, says that dry shampoos have becomeso popular because they “give such instant resultsand absorb oils so the hair looks fresh”.

Keeping hair fresh has been a key marketingmessage with dry shampoos – Batiste (Vivalis) forinstance now boasts ten fragrances in itsrelaunched ten-sku line-up, while Superdrug (AS Watson) has introduced three additions to itscollection including two new fragrances and aversion for brunettes.

As with elsewhere in the maturing hair market,the dry shampoo sector has begun to segment,with variants created for specific hair careconcerns. Batiste’s latest addition, XXL Volume

promises to boost volume, as well as enhancingthe appearance of hairstyles.

Product development has also been healthy inthe conditioners market, with intensiveconditioning treatments (up 1.8% to £14.1m,according to Kantar) showing potential for growthas mass market brands introduce ‘add on’ productsto existing lines. L’Oréal Paris (L’Oréal)introduced Full Restore 5 60 Second Saviour to itsElvive line, which promises to replenish weak,limp and damaged hair thanks to a formulaenriched with pro-keratin and ceramide thatprovides the conditioning intensity of a treatmentbut with the speed of a regular conditioner.

Similarly, Pantene’s (P&G) Colour ProtectColour Seal Concentrate is claimed to help repairthe signs of damage associated with coloured hair,whilst protecting colour for up to eight weeks.

Colour confidenceThe home hair colour market was given a realboost thanks to a slew of new launches thatfocused on texture and ease of use for the consumer.

John Frieda has entered the home haircolourant sector with a market first, PrecisionFoam Colour. The new at home colourant is saidto be the first at home permanent foam haircolour on the market and promises a salon resultwith virtually no dripping or mess. The foam is aseasy to use as regular shampoo, according to thebrand, and spreads to cover hard to reach areas,ensuring an even colour and 100% grey coverage.In addition to the hair colour, which comprises adeveloper, colourant and foamer that on contactproduce the foam, a Colour Keep Conditionerhelps lock in colour and protect the hair, creatinglong lasting results and vibrant shine.

Schwarzkopf & Henkel and L’Oréal followedhot on Kao’s heels with their versions of foam haircolourants, while Superdrug has launchedSensations, its seven colour, own brand alternativewhich has been priced competitively to competewith the existing foam lines on the market.

The foam format has also been picked up byRegain for Men (McNeil Healthcare) whichlaunched Regaine ExtraStrength Foam, a hair losstreatment which is claimed toprevent further hair loss andpromote growth when usedtwice a day for eight weeks.

Segmentation successThe increasing existence ofanti-hair loss products onretailers’ shelves is furtherevidence of thediversification in the haircare market in the UK.Once only available byprescription, medicalrelated hair concerns havebeen adopted by beautybrands and variants havebeen launched.


The Dove Nourishing OilCare range has beendeveloped to treat hairthat has been damagedby the environment




According to Nanogen, hair loss affects about20% of women in the UK with up to 40%admitting to noticeably thinning hair by the age of 50. The anti-hair loss range, which consists of products to cleanse, thicken, stimulate hairgrowth and conceal bald patches, recentlylaunched in Boots, bringing a range that waspreviously only available in professional outlets tothe mass market.

Similarly, AGE beautiful (Zotos/Shiseido),available exclusively at Sally professional stores,claims to address problems associated with ageingsuch as thinning hair, wiry greyness, colour lossand dullness. The range includes Fullness & BodyShampoo and Conditioner, Fullness & BodyBodifying Spray, Softness & Control StylingCrème and Intense Strengthening Treatment.

Elsewhere professional hair care line Goldwell(Kao Brands), introduced its Anti-Hairloss Spray,claimed to help prevent hereditary hair loss, aswell as Dualsenses Scalp Specialist, a six-sku rangecreated for problematic scalp conditions, includingSensitive Foam Shampoo, Sensitive SoothingLotion and Anti-Dandruff Shampoo.

“What consumers are looking for in hair care ismore specific products that are tailored to theirneeds and perform strongly,” explains Linney.

UV protection claims have been popular withmany brands. Clynol (Schwarzkopf & Henkel)reformulated its Sun range, which comprises ahair & body shampoo, aftersun conditioner andintense hair mask to counteract the damagingeffects of the sun, salt water and chlorine.

And Charles Worthington’s new Sunshine rangecontains antioxidant white tea and rice protein tonourish hair, helping to protect against harmfulUV rays and prevent hair drying out. The lineincludes a shampoo, conditioner and protectionspray. Vo5 (Unilever) meanwhile has relaunchedwith a new range of shampoos and conditionerscontaining Adaptive Haircare technology, which issaid to adjust to provide the amount ofnourishment hair needs; while Morroccanoil hasaddressed flat, limp hair with Extra VolumeShampoo and Conditioner, a volumising duo thathelps protect and nourish hair, leaving it shiny andmanageable.

Volume has also been a focus of celebrityhairdresser Guy Kremer whose newly launchedProfessional Salon Style line includes Add theBounce Cleanser and Rebalancer shampoo andconditioner, which has been developed to restorefullness and body to fine, fragile hair.

Tesco’s new hair care range, My Senses, includesa volumising variant. Heavenly Body, one of fourlines in the range, contains tiare flower and plumextracts, which are said to bring body back to finehair. And for frizzy hair, La Biosthetique launchedAntifrizz, a collection comprising shampoo,styling balm, conditioner and serum that is said totarget frizzy hair leaving it shinier, silkier and fullof body, with a 48 hour guarantee.

The new elixirHair care and styling products containing arganoil have become increasingly popular in the last

couple of years – success stories such asMoroccanoil and Ojon (Estée Lauder) have madehair oils one of the biggest trends in beauty in thepast year with brands in both the premium andmass ends of the market launching variants.

Dove (Unilever) has introduced Nourishing OilCare, a range of products designed to reviverough, dry and frizzy hair. The products, whichinclude a shampoo, conditioner and expresstreatment conditioner, contain a WeightlessNutri-Oils Technology, a blend of natural almondand coconut oils that are claimed to penetraterapidly to replenish hair from within.

“Nearly one in three women in the UK considertheir hair to be dry or normal to dry,” explainsDove Hair brand manager, Sandra Ferreira. “TheDove Nourishing Oil Care range has beendeveloped to rescue hair that has been damagedthrough styling and environmental factors.”

On the professional hair care market, Kerastaste(L’Oréal) launched Elixir Ultime, a nourishinghair oil containing a blend of maize, argan,camellia and pracaxi oils, while L’OréalProfessional’s Mythic Oil is said to have alightweight formula, making it suitable for finerhair. Similarly, Morroccanoil launched a lightvariant of its iconic treatment oil, said to besuitable for blonde or fine hair, following thepopularity of the original product.

Sally Beauty introduced Argan Secret Oil, arange of hair care products infused with argan oil,said to smooth and transform frizzy hair. Therange includes a treatment oil, shampoo,conditioner and conditioning treatment.

And Ojon has developed Instant RestorativeHair Serum containing rouge oleifera oil, which isfound in the fruit that surrounds the ojon nut.This combined with the ojon oil is said to providean instant solution to fine, dry and flyaway hair,and can be used on damp hair for its protectivequalities, or on dry hair as a finishing product.

The popularity of oils also fits in well with thenaturals trend, which has seen more subduedproduct development in the past year. Redken(L’Oréal) launched its first natural hair care range,Nature’s Rescue, claimed to be free fromparabens, sulphates and silicones, and utilisingplant and marine extracts to remove impuritiesand build-up in the hair.

The range includes Refreshing Detox Shampoowith aloe vera and soy proteins; Cooling DeepConditioner containing aloe vera and sea algae;and Radiant Sea Spray, a hair perfume that addstexture and movement, according the brand.

Marine ingredients have also been a focus forLa Biosthetique, which launched Bleu de laBiosthetique, a hair and body range containingamino acids and minerals derived from brown andmicro algae and said to leave hair cleansed, softand manageable.

Natural body care brand Naked (KMI) movedinto hair care meanwhile, with the launch of a newline, which includes shampoos and conditioners as well as Divine Curls Serum and MiracleWorker Leave-in Conditioner. All products are said to be paraben-free and usenatural ingredients.

La Biosthetique’s newBeach Effect StylingSpray provides hair withUV protection andmoisturising benefits


rose by less than 1% last year to more than$1.3bn. P&G’s Head & Shoulders Classic CleanDandruff Shampoo was the number one brand inthe US last year, with sales in excess of $38.3mwhile sales of conditioners and crème rinses wereflat at $912m. More consumers expect tailoredsolutions to their hair care problems even at massmarket level.

For the green thinking US consumer, L’Oréal’sGarnier Fructis Pure Clean shampoo andconditioner are now available in a 92%biodegradable format. According to the company,the products contain no silicones, parabens ordyes. The brand’s ‘Ultra-Clean’ system, with thepower of the antioxidant acerola berry, boosts thehealth of hair while leaving no heavy residuebehind, according to the company.

The dandruff battleA few months ago, L’Oréal launched GarnierFructis Anti-Dandruff to take on Head &Shoulders, a franchise that commands the lion’sshare of the $271.7m mass market dandruffshampoo category, according to the SymphonyIRI Group. Garnier Fructis’ Anti-Dandruffprovides 48 hour dandruff control via naturalextracts that purify the hair and scalp for a deepclean and vitamin B that strengthens hair. There



USSplittinghairs

The market for hair care products (shampoos,conditioners, styling aids and colour products) is adouble edged sword here in the US. On the onehand, the professional category is still sufferingthrough the effects of the recession and as a resultconsumers are going longer between their cut andcolour appointments. Yet the consumer’sreluctance to spend has created new opportunitiesfor mass market players, who are rolling out awide array of products for people with upmarkettastes but low budget incomes.

According to the Symphony IRI Group, sales ofshampoos in food, drug and mass merchandisers

Talking textureAccording to Kantar Worldpanel, just 39% ofwomen and 18% of men use a hair styling productwith an average frequency of four days a week.The main reason for use is cited as holding a stylewith hairsprays remaining the most popularformat (28%), followed by gels (20%) andmousses (12%). Women’s hairsprays in particularhave seen considerable growth in the past year, up10.8% to £41.7m.

Product development in the styling market hasbeen characterised by texture. The poker straighttrend so popular with men and women’s stylesover the last few years in the UK has beenreplaced by a more natural appearance with afocus on movement and waves.

Aveda’s (Estée Lauder) Be Curly Style-Preppromises to define curls and control frizz,ensuring curls stay in place for longer, whilstproviding moisture and shine. Similarly,Schwarzkopf & Henkel’s recently relaunched Osisrange includes several products that are claimed toprovide movement, body and curl. Pump MyCurls is the brand’s first pump spray whichtransforms into a workable cream that defines curland leaves hair soft. Curl Me Soft meanwhile is arich cream that adds bounce and curl definitionwithout stiffness or stickiness, and Body Me is aserum that promises 100% more volume, leavinghair looking fuller with natural movement.

Texture has been a key focus for Bumble andbumble as well. Its new Texture hair (un)dressingcrème provides volume, texture and lift to leavehair looking ‘messed up’. And La Biosthetique hasdrawn inspiration from the popularity of sea saltsprays to launch Beach Effect Styling Spray. The

spray provides UV protection and moisture, whilstleaving hair texturised with a natural silky mattefinish.

Men’s styling has also seen an increase in thenumber of products offering long-term hold.L’Oréal’s Studio Line brand has introduced SpikeFanatic, which promises up to 24 hours of hold forspiky styles, while fellow L’Oréal band Garnier hasadded Style Survivor Gel to its Fructis hair range.The gel, which is claimed to be the strongest holdproduct in the Fructis line, contains cactus extractto help provide hold in extreme conditions such asheat, humidity and wind, with no sticky residue.

The UK market had been full of innovation and creative thinking in the past year and the hair care and styling markets have been awashwith new formulas, textures, ingredients andformats to ensure that this category remains oneof the country’s frontrunners for some time to come.

Charles Worthington’sSunshine rangecontains antioxidantwhite tea and riceprotein to nourish hair



HAIR CARE MARKET REPORTHAIR CARE MARKET REPORT

Tom BrannaTom Branna is editor ofHappi, (Household andPersonal ProductsIndustry), a US monthlytrade magazine. Happilooks at the market forsoaps and detergents,cosmetics and toiletries,waxes and polishes,aerosols and relatedchemical specialities.To subscribe, visitwww.happi.com

are four different products, including GarnierFructis Anti-Dandruff Intense Cleanse, a sku thatcontains microbeads to scrub the hair and scalpfor a long lasting, deep clean.

For those seeking sleek hair, P&G hasintroduced the Split End Repair Crème to thePantene Medium-Thick Hair Solutions range inJuly. The keratin protection crème helps repairsplit ends and protects against future damage.Similarly, Unilever rolled out a new Dove DailyTreatment Conditioner and a new Dove IntensiveRepair Shampoo and Conditioner System. Allcontain Fibre Active technology that works topenetrate deep inside the hair strand to helprebind damaged proteins and a patented micromoisture serum which helps repair the surface of the hair by sealing lifted cuticles to help protectagainst future damage. The serum targetsdamaged hair by depositing conditioning, cationicpolymers and fine silicone droplets in an evenlayer, leaving hair with a more conditioned, clean feel without weighing it down, according tothe company.

Retail partnersWhile P&G, L’Oréal and Unilever slug it out at the top of the mass market, smaller players are finding some room of their own on storeshelves. SheaMoisture has partnered with drug store retailer Walgreens to launch a line of hair care products. The SheaMoisture haircare line – comprising shampoos, conditioners andstyling aids – is rolling out at more than 7,000 Walgreens stores and online via theretailer’s website.

“We are very excited to launch our newestcollection at Walgreens,” says Richelieu Dennis,founder and ceo of Sundial Creations whichmanufactures SheaMoisture. “They have been akey partner in the growth of our business and weare enthusiastic about bringing organic hair careproducts to such a broad consumer base.”

The range is available in four varieties: RawShea & Argan Oil, Coconut & Hibiscus, Yucca &Baobab and African Black Soap. The launch alsoincludes two new hair kits: the Curl & Shine Kitand the Repair & Transition Kit, which containtravel sized versions of the Coconut & Hibiscusand Raw Shea hair collections.

A colour specific roll-out has come fromScruples, the US salon hair care company.Scruples Pearlscriptives Platinum ShineBrightening Shampoo maintains blonde and greyhair with a violet colourant that neutralisesunwanted yellow tones. The sulphate-free formulais enriched with chamomile extract to restoreshine and enhance light hair; sea kelp extract; andthe brand’s Protective Barrier Complex (PBX), anessential blend of ingredients designed tocondition and protect hair against environmental damage.

Crème of Nature (Colomer) has expanded itsline of products with certified organic argan oilfrom Morocco with five new products includingthe Crème of Nature with Argan Oil Treatment,Moisture & Shine Shampoo, IntensiveConditioning Treatment, Strength & Shine

August 2011 ECM 289

Leave-In Conditioner and Oil Moisturiser. Therestorative Moisture & Shine Shampoo issulphate-free and delivers intense shine while itgently cleanses the hair.

In styleDespite the plethora of hairstyles out there, salesof hair styling products haven’t moved muchduring the past year. In 2010, sales of hairspraysand spritzes rose by 1.2% to $412.4m, while salesof gels and mousses were flat at $632.4m in USsupermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers(excluding Walmart), according to the SymphonyIRI Group.

Suave is rolling out the red carpet for the newSuave Professionals styling line, said to work aswell as salon brands, according to the company.The reformulated and redesigned range featureseverything from an anti-frizz serum to a heatprotection spray. Meanwhile, VO5’s new PerfectHold Styling Line, in four different applications,is formulated with a unique polymer blend thatassures all day hold with a lightweight feel. Thecollection features everything from hairspray tomousse. Unilever recently completed itsacquisition of Alberto Culver, but US authoritiesonly approved this on the condition that Unileversell the Alberto VO5 brand in the US and divestits Rave brand.

In other Unilever news, Body by Blow mousse isdesigned to provide style and control without thetackiness of a traditional mousse. The richwhipped foam texture offers hair hold withoutresidue or crunchiness, according to the company.

Meanwhile, a big launch in the men’s categorythis season is Axe’s newest styling innovation, AxeBuzzed Look Cream + SPF15. It is the brand'sfirst and only product with SPF protection whichshields the scalp from UV rays.

Waxing and waningAccording to Mike Gilman, founder of theGrooming Lounge in Washington, a service formen’s grooming products and services, waxes andpomades seem to be increasingly popular this year.

“Waxes are easy to use and great for bothconservative or more textured, toussled looks,”comments Gilman. “Pomades are also verypopular for guys who have a style with a bit more length. They have appropriate hold with ahigh shine, so it’s great for anyone that’s seekingeither a conservative, parted look or a slicked-backstyle. Guys also like that pomades are very easy touse and can be used on both towel dried or dry hair.”

Hair styling products are also using innovativeapplicators this year in the US. For example, thebrush-on Volumising Dry Shampoo Lift Powderfrom Keratin Complex provides an instant hairtransformation, according to the company. Thisportable powder instantly refreshes and addsvolume to even the most lifeless tresses.

Volume and shine are obviously key words whenit comes to the hair care category. The hair carebrands that can deliver these benefits are sure tosucceed no matter how long it takes the USeconomy to start growing again.




RussiaFringebenefits

The market for hair care and styling productsis progressing dynamically in Russia. Hairstyles are becoming ever more ‘natural’ requiring newproducts with light textures which combine theproperties of hair care and styling to create a lookwhich appears to involve little product.

The styling market is varied and today Russiaenjoys an attractive variety of brands. Accordingto the survey of the Target Group Index Russia,Synovate Comcon in 2010, 20% of the populationof Russian cities with a population over 100,000people aged 16+ use styling products on their hair.The majority of customers still prefer thetraditional hair styling products. In fact, 14.4% ofrespondents used lacquers or hairsprays on theirhair while 13.3% preferred foam masks ormousses for hair setting purposes.

Who’s whoTraditionally, the leading hair care and stylingmanufacturers are international ones but amongRussian manufacturers, the Arnest Group ofCompanies is ahead of the others. Arnest has the complete manufacturing cycle,from the development of products and themanufacturing of components to actual sales andbrand promotion. One of Arnest’s most popularbrands is Prelest which sells well with consumersin Russia.

South Korean company, Sewha P&C Inc, which is promoting the premium product rangeVonU, is a new player in the Russian market. TheVonU brand is represented both in well knownMoscow retail chains, such as Flirtshop, Elize and Arbor-Mundi, as well as in regional ones. Theunique composition of VonU hair care products is based on nano-platinum and extracts of raremedicinal plants.

A major Russian manufacturer, ESTELProfessional, has introduced a new range of Airexhair products onto the market which have been developed for professional use – theseinclude a curling mousse, hair lacquer, thermoprotection spray, hair setting milk, modelling hair cream, hair gel, elastic gel for modelling,modelling wax, opalescent modelling gum andstretch-gel.

It is worth noting that all products have variousfixation degrees. For example, a lacquer can beflexible or elastic, whereby a milk product wouldrender a normal degree of fixation. Theseproducts contain vitamin B5, silk proteins, active

Anna Dycheva-SmirnoffAnna Dycheva-Smirnoff is editor in chief of www.cosmeticsinrussia.com,an English languageinternet newsletter thatcovers all aspects ofRussia’s fragrance andcosmetics market. She is also businessdevelopment director for Intercharm

moisturising components, a complex of micropolymers and UV filters.

The attraction of ArnestArnest has been successfully promoting itsPrelest and Prelest Professional brands recentlyand the hairsprays in the range are among themost popular products sold. A new styling linefrom the company by the name of MemoryEffect comprises mousse and hair lacquer.Natural bamboo extract and vitamin B5 in the formula enhance hair elasticity and addmoisture at the same time. The spray/fluid also uses almond extract for extra softeningproperties while a special thermo protectioncomplex guards the hair from the aggressiveimpact of high temperatures which can becaused by over styling.

Arnest has also introduced the Stylissa lineonto the market – an array of luxury styling aidsfrom the French L’Arnée Cosmetics brands.Pearl extract and French rose oil in the formulasaturate the hair with essential micro elementsfilling it with shine and health.

Wella Professional’s (P&G) High Hair line ofproducts enables customers to choose from avariety of caring and styling products. The MilkStyle Foundation effectively preserves thecolour of tinted hair; the Styling Mousse createsvolume and flexibility in thin hair; the CurlArtist is essential for frizzy hair; while the general purpose lotion Crystal Styler is an all round product for all hair styling needs. Theunbeatable best seller for the company is High Hair Finishing Spray, which will fix thestyle and ensure UV protection for the hair aswell as offering an anti-static effect.

Distribution channelsIn order to develop a successful regionaldistribution network, a hair care company musthave a well developed chain from themanufacturer to the consumer comprisingwarehouses, training studios, training managersfor workshops and sales managers fordistribution purposes.

In order to expand its distribution channels in Russia, Paul Mitchell offers an attractivestarting package for beauty salons promoting itsbrand. The results are encouraging as aftereight years’ presence in the Russian market the company has attracted some 20 regionalpartners and approximately 1,000 affiliatedbeauty shops.

The salons offering these products regularlyprovide discounts to their customers for theirfavorite procedures and offer productsspecifically for home use if that is what they prefer.

When it comes to hair care and styling, the Russian market is growing and gaining in sophistication all the time. With bothmanufacturers and retailers on board with making this an ever more important C&T category in the country, and one with much potential, the future for all involvedlooks good.

290 ECM August 2011


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