good times food & wine spring 2013

PublisherJeff Mitchell

EditorElizabeth LimbachContributors Josie Cowden, JoelHersch, Karen Petersen, KimReyes, Aric SleeperProofreader Josie CowdenPhotographer Keana Parker

Art Director Joshua Becker Layout and Design Director Jennifer PoliDesignersIan WebbCarly Gunther

Advertising DirectorStephanie Lutz x204 Account Executives Kate Kauffman x208Kelli Edwards x 217Chelsey Mosgrove x218 Rose Frates x 219

contents

food Forward 16 Authentic Italian

Casa Nostra is the real thing

18 Don’t Panic, It’s OrganicBantam settles in on the Westside

22 More, Please!Five local dishes worth trying

32 Sweet ToothChocolate cake, gelato, crêpes and more

food & winespring 2013

Liquid Therapy38 It Takes Two

Kombucha and wine come together as one inBrew Dream

40 Ten Wines Worth a SipOur wine expert picks 10 wines to know

44 A New Brew Discretion Brewing brings organic beer andunique pub fare to Soquel

48 Spring Sip-ologySix cocktails to shake up your spring

As Santa Cruz emerges from its wintry slumber, the sights,sounds and sumptuous flavors of our vibrant home come alivewith the sunshine of spring. There’s plenty to keep you andyour appetite busy, but if you need some inspiration, take noteof the tasty ideas on the following pages. We have bites and sipsthat will satisfy you no matter the mood you find yourself in asthe weather warms up. Feeling stressed? Slow down with atraditional tea ritual at Hidden Peak Teahouse (page 52), orunwind over a pint of organic brew at the mellow new beerhotspot Discretion Brewing (page 44). Enjoying an adventurousstreak? Try a Beer Float from The Picnic Basket (page 34), orconsider stopping by the Young Farmers and Ranchers annualTesticle Festival (page 59). On a health kick? Dine at GoldenCarrot-winning eateries (page 14), sip on locally madekombucha wine from Brew Dream (page 38), and find sweetsatisfaction in raw, vegan, gluten-free Coco-Roons (page 30).And if, after considering all of these options you find yourselffeeling indecisive, sign up for a Santa Cruz or Capitola FoodTour, and let history buff Brion Sprinsock take the reins on yourculinary journey (page 6).

But the best way to celebrate both the spring season andyour local food community is with—what else?—a deliciouspicnic. Check out page 10 for an example of how to pack apicnic basket to the brim with Santa Cruz-made delights.

Now dig in.

—Elizabeth Limbach, Editor

On the Cover:Design by Jennifer Poli. Photoof Bantam’s chrysanthemum,prosciutto and fontina pizza by Keana Parker.

editor’s note

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6 An Edible Adventure Take a trip with Santa Cruz Food Tours

10 Basket Case An all local, springtime picnic basket

12 Virtual Vegan Go online with Amey Mathews

15 Eco-Friendly EatingCelebrate Earth Day with your fork

eats & treats

6 l food & wine

Food tour participants getschooled in localgastronomy as wellas Santa Cruz andCapitola history By Joel Hersch

ATastyTrail

�Brion SprinsockKEANA PARKER


Fueled by his passion for SantaCruz County history and apenchant for delicious meals

from locally owned restaurants,Brion Sprinsock leads the SantaCruz and Capitola Food Tours—scenic strolls flavored with enlight-ening stories, and the best, some-times overlooked, eats around.

Sprinsock and his wife, KristineAlbrecht, started the Santa Cruzwalking tour in 2011 and addedthe Capitola tour last year.

Both tours take about three anda half hours—covering around 1.8miles—with 15 to 20 minute stopsat designated restaurants. In SantaCruz, partakers nosh onMediterranean-inspired Americancuisine at the Center Street Grill,sample vegetarian Sri Lankan fare atMalabar, cool off with fresh organicofferings from The Penny IceCreamery, and more. Capitola tour-takers taste Island Fusion dishes

from Paradise Beach Grille, experi-ence traditional English tea at TheQuail & Thistle Tea Room, and visitthe illustrious ShadowbrookRestaurant, among other stops.

“You get really full, but thewalking allows your food to digestand it also cleanses the palate,”Sprinsock explains.

The idea, he says, is to getpeople to try great food fromplaces that they may normallyoverlook, as well as give them apersonal connection with thoserestaurants by sharing storiesabout their histories and thepeople who started them.

Sprinsock, whose interest in localhistory was sparked by historianSandy “The History Dude” Lydon,says that the food is what drawspeople to the tours, but it’s thehistory and architecture that makethe experience truly memorable.

“If you just take the 10-by-10block area of Downtown Santa

Cruz, there are so many interestingstories to tell that people never hearabout,” he says.

Sprinsock delves into historicalanecdotes and points out Victorianarchitecture along each route.

On the Downtown Santa Cruztour, for example, his topics rangefrom the history of the Neary-Rodriguez Adobe, which he says isthe oldest structure in town, andthe origins of Mission Plaza,located above Pacific Avenue, tothe evolution of downtown’s archi-tecture and the ways in which the1989 Loma Prieta Earthquakechanged the city’s look.

Sprinsock likes to keep thegroups small and intimate, usuallyno more than 10 to 12 people.

“It makes it so you can askquestions and enjoy the company,”

he says. “Sharing a meal is the bestway to get to know someone.”

While the tours are perfectculinary and cultural samplers forout-of-towners, Sprinsock saysthey appeal to locals as much as to tourists. In fact, since theystarted two years ago, he saysabout half of their customers havebeen area residents.

Local businesses are also bene-fiting from the tours: last year,Sprinsock says the tours brought in$15,000 for local restaurants.

When it comes to selectingstops for his culinary excursions,Sprinsock says, “To be on our tour, a restaurant has to be unique,it has to be unrepeatable, andlocally owned.” /FW

Tickets are available online atsantacruzfoodtour.com with a 25percent discount offer, bringing the costof each tour down to $59.

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MY AMERICAN PANTRY: A SNAPSHOT OF SANTA CRUZ FOOD ARTISANS

Inspired by the growing artisan food movementnationally, writer-turned-chef-turned-foodentrepreneur Andrea Blum decided to create

an atlas that documents the people who compriseit. Through her project, My American Pantry(MAP), Blum plans to create “a giant, interactivephoto atlas stitched together into a national (andeventually international) map” that celebrates and

tells the stories of food and drink artisans makingculinary waves in their own regions. Santa Cruzwas the second stop in the photo series, whichyou can keep tabs on at myamericanpantry.com.Nearly two dozen Santa Cruz-area food andbeverage crafters turned out for the Feb. 16 photoshoot, which took place at the Homeless GardenProject. “The meaningful location gives the photo

another layer of depth,” says Blum. People fromthe following are pictured: Silk Road Elixirs (akaCardamom Tuesday), Shelly’s Biscotti, CreativeCultures, The Penny Ice Creamery, el Salchichero,Uncommon Brewers, Melinda’s Gluten Free,Three of a Kind, Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing,Voss Gardens, Serendipity Saucy Spreads and theHomeless Garden Project. /FW

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MAPPED?By Elizabeth Limbach


465-1105 • 1710 Brommer St., Santa Cruz438-2567 • 95 Mount Hermon Rd, Scotts Valley

Scotts Valley Location

Breakfast – Lunch – Dinner

10 l food & wine

11Garden Variety Cheese Black-

Eyed Susan (raw sheep’s milk

cheese); $12.90 at New Leaf

Community Markets; gardenvarietycheese.com.

1

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5

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1Moka Collection

Yellowstone picnic

basket; $126 at

Chefworks, 1527 Pacific

Ave., Santa Cruz,

chefworks-santacruz.com.

2Checkered table-

cloth, 90 inches;

$41 at Chefworks,

1527 Pacific Ave.,

Santa Cruz,

chefworks-santacruz.com.

3Delk Bees Basil-

Infused Honey;

$7.99 at New Leaf

Community Markets;

delkbees.com.

4Friend in Cheeses

Lavender Plum

Jelly; $8.99 at

Shopper’s Corner;

friendincheeses.com.

5Annie’s Pimento-

Cashew Spread;

14 ounce for $5.29

at New Leaf

Community Markets.

6Red House Bakery

Gluten-Free Oatmeal

Cranberry Orange

Zest Cookies; $3.59 at New

Leaf Community Markets;

stores.redhousebakery.com.

7Gayle’s Bakery French

Loaf; $3.59 at New Leaf

Community Markets; Gayle’s

Bakery, gaylesbakery.com.

8Odonata Wines; 2012 River Skimmer ($20)

and 2012 River Skimmer Rosé ($17); available

in the Odonata Wines tasting room, 2343 Mission

St., Santa Cruz; odonatawines.com.

9Harley Farms Chevre

Torte; 3 ounce for $8.49 at

New Leaf Community

Markets; harleyfarms.com.

10Santa Cruz Salmon

Jerky Teriyaki; $8.99

at Shopper’s Corner;

santacruzsalmonjerky.com.

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In her 13 years of veganism, Amey Mathewshas received the question (often with raisedeyebrows and an incredulous tone) “What do

you eat?” a few too many times. After years as a self-professed “unhealthy

vegetarian” whose diet consisted mainly of breadand cheese, going vegan forced Mathews toreassess her kitchen routine. “Now I go to thefarmers’ market twice a week and [my diet] totallyrevolves around veggies,” says Mathews, a localyoga teacher. “That’s absolutely one of my favoritethings about being vegan—how much itexpanded my tastes.”

Eager to show the world what a vegan eats(and perhaps put that repetitive question to restonce and for all) Mathews started the blog “VeganEats and Treats” (veganeatsandtreats.blogspot.com)in August 2006.

“When I first got interested in vegan cooking,I looked online and there were maybe three orfour vegan blogs, total—which is hilariousbecause now there are, like, three or four thou-sand vegan blogs,” she laughs. But her originalintent—that the blog be a form of activism—quickly evolved.

“I realized that on the Internet no one looksup opinions they find challenging just to readabout them,” she says. “You go to the Internet forwhat you already want. So I have a lot of peoplewho aren’t vegan who read my blog, but they areat least interested in cooking and eating vegan

food. The majority of people who do read it arevegan. The blog turned out to be more like acommunity of friends, and about sharingsuccesses, and sometimes failures, in the kitchen.”

She picked up a few key lessons in bloggingearly on that helped shape the site: No. 1, she says,is that “plenty of meals are unremarkable and don’tneed to go down in history.” This means bloggingless often, but with a higher quality of posts. “I waituntil I have something more interesting to postabout,” she says.

The second most important thing to know asa food blogger, says Mathews, is that readerswant to see big, eye-catching photos. Nowarmed with an SLR camera, Mathews has uppedthe ante on “Vegan Eats and Treats” images, butsays she doesn’t take it as seriously as someother online foodies.

“The best bloggers are people who eat coldmeals, which I’m not quite willing to do,” shesays. “They take a lot of time, a lot ofstaging, and they have light tablesand backdrops. I’ll do my best totake a good picture, but after fiveor six snaps, I’m ready to eat.”

On a recent sunny after-noon, Mathews set the tableat her Soquel home with ahome-cooked mealcertainly worthy of a post:potato salad with peas,

sorrel and shallot vinaigrette, and open-face sand-wiches with avocado and lime spread on home-made “Green Monster Bread” (from the cookbook“Vegan Sandwiches Save the Day!”), topped withgrilled herb tofu (crusted with fresh parsley, dill,basil, garlic and marinade) and New Nativesprouts. For dessert, she served up “GrandaddiesCookies”—a recipe she based on her late grandfa-ther’s favorite dessert of mocha almond fudge icecream doused with Disaronno. (See page 60 forthe recipe.)

She describes the blog as “lighthearted,” andsays that, at its core, it’s simply about tasty food.

“I certainly have strong feelings [aboutveganism], and I’m so committed to it,” she says,“but I think you can win a lot more people overwith a good attitude and good food.” /FW

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A day in the life of local vegan blogger Amey MathewsBy Elizabeth Limbach


(831) 421-0507841 Almar Ave, Santa Cruz, CA(located on the corner of Mission St. Safeway Complex)

Open 11am–2am, Kitchen open till midnight

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Dixie Pickles Crisp dill pickle spears coated with our homemade beer-batter and fried.Served with Ranch dressing – 7

Hangover Helper Two Over Medium fried eggs, avocado, bacon, American cheese,

and Mayo on grilled sourdough – 10

The Belushi – Not approved by the AHA. A stuffed half pound-er with blue cheese,

bacon, Aged Irish cheddar, and American cheese. Then we beer batter it, deep fry it, and

wish you all the best – 14

The Santa Cruz coastal climate makes seasonaland local eating a very easy reality, due to thefact that crops grow year-round.

Felton resident Robin Horn, who has beenliving in Santa Cruz County for more than 30years, takes full advantage of this fact. She loves togarden and attends the local farmers’ markets inFelton, Scotts Valley, Watsonville, and DowntownSanta Cruz. Horn also stops by the UC Santa CruzFarm, whose produce comes from their intern-planted and -harvested organic garden, and is a

member of the Live EarthFarm Community SupportedAgricultural program andreceives a box of local vegeta-bles from them every week.

“It’s a lot of food some-times, and I try to find ways to becreative with my recipes,” says Horn.

As a way to keep track of her kitchen creationsand share them with others, Horn started a blog,titled “Seasonal Eating,” in April 2011. The online

portal focuses on sustainable local produce anddelicious recipes using those ingredients, such as aMoroccan fava bean dip and steamed artichokeswith lemon sauce.

“I write ‘Seasonal Eating’ to inspire people toeat seasonally,” she says.

With the arrival of spring, Horn suggests keeping aneye out for spring peas, fava beans, artichokes, strawber-

ries, snow peas and asparagus at local storesand farmers’ markets. Cherries and green

beans will follow in early summer, she says.“Eating seasonally is the best way to get

the freshest produce, as well as the cheapest,”says Horn. “I think it’s important to eat locally

as well. We live in such a great agricultural area.So why not take advantage of the great crops

growing year-round here?”Horn also encourages Santa Cruz residents to

grow produce in their own backyards, pegging toma-toes, leaf lettuce, and Italian herbs like basil andoregano as good bets for growing this season. /FW

Find Horn online at seasonaleating.net.

Spring Style‘Seasonal Eating’ blogger Robin Hornon local foods to grow and buy thisspring By Kim Reyes

14 l food & wine

BREAKFAST LUNCHBreakfast… served all dayThe Basic Breakfast $6.75

The Basic Tofu $7.50

Creative Omelettes Starting at $8.25

Multi Grain Cereals $3.95

French Toast $6.251/2 order $3.95

Pancake Breakfast 1/2 stack pancakes, twoeggs any style, and bacon, sausage (link orpatty), or ham $9.25

Fruit Pancakes 1/2 stack $6.75, full stack $9.25

Sourdough Pancakes 1/2 order (3) $4.50,full order (5) $6.25

Sourdough Waffles $4.95

Brunch SpecialtiesMike’s Mess Three eggs, mix it up with bacon, mushrooms & our famous home-fries; top it off withsour cream, tomatoes & green onions. Served withyour choice of homemade breads, toasted. $10.95“Junior Mike’s Mess” (smaller version) $8.95

(Sub. any omelette ingredient for bacon–$0.75)

Tofu Mess $10.95“Junior Tofu Mess” (smaller version) $8.95

Zach’s “Bennie” Three poached eggs servedon an herb roll, topped with cream sauce & crum-bled bacon; our home-fries on the side. Or tryTraditional Creamed Eggs, served with the eggsboiled & sliced. $9.95

Artichoke Frittata $8.95

Corned Beef Hash & Eggs $9.95

Chili & Eggs $9.95

Spicy Italian Scramble $10.50

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Sandwiches*turkey • *BLT • *ham • *avocado $8.75grill any of these & add cheese $0.75

*grilled cheese $6.95

Ahi Tuna Melt $9.50

Chowders & ChilisCup $2.75, Bowl $4.25

Fresh SaladsImperial Chicken $7.25

Greek Salad $6.95

Spinach Salad $7.25

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Ninety-six percent of main entrees servedat American chain eateries exceed theUSDA’s daily limits for fat, saturated fat,

sodium and calories, according to a studypublished in the Public Health Nutrition journallast year.

Between that fact and the reality thatAmericans are eating out more than ever, organiza-tions like United Way of Santa Cruz County’s Gofor Health! collaborative have their work cut out.

“There are more unhealthy choices thanhealthy choices in our county, especially inWatsonville where there are more fast foodoptions,” says Megan Joseph, director of commu-nity organizing for United Way.

Joseph notes that, according to the 2012Santa Cruz County Community AssessmentProject Report, a quarter of the county’s low-income children between 5 and 19 years oldwere considered obese.

As part of their mission to promote nutritionand physical exercise and combat childhoodobesity, Go for Health! established the GoldenCarrot Award in 2008 to encourage restaurantsto dish up healthy options and reward restau-rants that already do.

“Originally, the Golden Carrot Award wasdesigned as an incentive for restaurants toconsider healthy options,” says Joseph. “Now weuse it as a way to also encourage the communityto choose healthier options, as well as recognizehealthy restaurants.”

In order to be considered for an award,restaurants must meet a certain number ofcriteria, such as offering free water, a choice ofbrown rice, a children’s menu with smallerportion sizes, and food cooked in less oil. Pointsare awarded for each requirement met, and apanel looks over the submissions.

Restaurants with the most points are awardeda Golden Carrot Award, and the restaurant withthe most points is the Ultimate Winner of thatyear. The top winner in 2011 was Charlie HongKong, an Asian fusion restaurant on SoquelAvenue in Santa Cruz, and The Picnic Basket, arestaurant on Beach Street by the Santa CruzMunicipal Wharf, nabbed the honor in 2012.

“We want people to know more about thisaward, because we want people to be able to eatout and still be healthy,” says Joseph. /FW

Learn more at unitedwaysc.org/go-health.

Eat Out—Healthily?By Kim Reyes


Mon: $20 Gourmet3 Course Meal with a Sample

Glass of Wine (5pm-close)

Tues: Taco & TequilaNight$3 Tacos a la carte &

Specialty Margaritas (3pm-

close)

Wed: Fresh Catch Kebabs$16 - Fish & Meat Selections

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like us on facebook

Voted “Best Seafood in

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Sat-Sun:

Local Salmon Season Happening–Spring/Summer 2013

Eating forEarth Day

Earth Day is Monday, April 22. Whatdoes that have to do with food, you ask?Everything. Paying close attention to

what is on our forks (and how it got there) is apowerful step in becoming a good steward ofthis precious planet. That’s why, as you ziparound town this Earth Day on your zero-emission, human-powered bicycle—reusabletote slung over your shoulder—you shouldalso think about eating in the following eco-friendly ways.

MEATLESS: A 2006 United Nationsreport titled “Livestock’s Long Shadow” foundthat animal agriculture is responsible for 18percent of greenhouse gases—more than alltransportation combined. A University ofChicago study from that same year found thatadopting a vegan diet is more effective atreducing greenhouse gas emissions thandriving a hybrid car. Not eating meat one daya week saves 22 bathtubs full of water,according to Meatless Monday, the increasinglypopular campaign that promotes cutting outmeat once a week. It’s fitting, then, that EarthDay this year falls on a Monday.

LOCAL: It doesn’t take a genius to realizethat foods grown in your own region will havea smaller carbon footprint by the time theyreach your plate than foods trucked fromfarther away. Luckily, this is Santa Cruz—alocavore’s paradise. Look for local produce andproducts at the store, join one of the manyCommunity-Supported Agriculture programs,and don’t forget to stop by the glorious localfarmers’ markets. (P.S. There’s nothing as localas your own backyard—if you haven’t done soalready, start planting that spring garden!)

ORGANIC: Pesticides aren’t Planet Earth’sfriend. The Rodale Institute estimates that if all434 million acres of U.S. cropland wereconverted to organic practices, it would be likeeliminating 217 million cars from the road.The Food and Agriculture Organization of theUnited Nations put it this way: “The impact oforganic agriculture on natural resources favorsinteractions within the agro-ecosystem that arevital for both agricultural production andnature conservation. Ecological servicesderived include soil forming and conditioning,soil stabilization, waste recycling, carbonsequestration, nutrients cycling, predation,pollination and habitats.” /FW

By Elizabeth Limbach

16 l food & wine

At a little restaurant called Casa Nostra, justoff Highway 9 in Ben Lomond, steppingthrough the front door transports you into

old country Italy. Italian opera plays, the hot aromas of spicy

sausage and pasta fill the air, and RaffaeleCristallo and Pasquale Bianco—both owners andchefs—are talking, sometimes yelling, in Italian,about how to make the perfect carbonara.

Casa Nostra, which opened in December2012, is owned and operated by Italian-bornCristallo and Bianco, and also Mario Ibarra, whois originally from Mexico but has cooked in andowned Italian restaurants for many years.

Bianco, head chef at Casa Nostra, hails fromBenevento, Italy, but has worked in the restaurantbusiness in Paris, Sweden, and San Francisco.He’s a big man with a goatee, excited blue eyesand a bright-white chef’s uniform.

Sitting at the front bar, where Cristallo servesup a variety of imported wines, such asNegroamaro red, and Lavazza Italian coffee, heand Bianco recount tales of learning to cookgourmet dishes alongside their mothers (manda-tory training in Italy) and meeting one another,all the while emphasizing the pride they take increating authentic Italian food.

“We have been knowing each other around15 years,” Cristallo says with a thick Italian

accent. “I met Pasquale in San Francisco for thefirst time, and we were both fresh from the boat.”

Casa Nostra offers many classic Italian disheslike Fettuccine Alla Bolognese ($12.50), a pastacooked with tomato, cuts of pork and beef, and acream sauce, as well the Linguine Ai Frutti DeMare ($17), a seafood pasta plate complete withfresh mussels, clams, calamari, salmon andshrimp simmered in white wine. But, Bianconotes, the carbonara ($11.50) is the real test ofItalian culinary authenticity. It’s a spaghetti dishwith pancetta, onion and a cream sauce madefrom eggs.

When Italian tourists come in and taste thecarbonara, they are extremely pleased, he says.“Carbonara—that’s the classic,” Bianco says. “Yougo to Rome—you find it exactly the way we makeit.” Similarly, they boast that only here does the

Italian Bolognese taste exactly as it does inBologna, Italy.

“Like the bruschetta,” Cristallo says happily,both hands in the air. “We know how thebruschetta is supposed to be tasting!” /FW

Casa Nostra Ristorante, 9217 Hwy 9, Ben Lomond, 609-6132, ristorantecasanostra.com. Monday throughSunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, 9a.m. to 9 p.m.

Casa Nostra Ristorante serves Italian food as traditional as it gets BY JOEL HERSCH

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Branzino Alla Siciliana ($24):Seabass seared in garlic,onions, cherry tomatoes,raisins, capers, pine nuts andwhite wine.

Reminders of Rome

gtweekly.com l food & wine l 1 7

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18 l food & wine

The key to making authenticNeapolitan pizza is in thecrust, says Bantam’s head chef

Melissa Reitz. With an open stove burning

almond wood at close to 1,000degrees, Bantam pizzas cook fast,searing the outside into a flavorfulcrunch, while leaving the inside withjust the right amount of chew. Themix of textures, garden-fresh veggiesand high-grade meats from localfarms, not to mention the laid back,social atmosphere of an old schoolpizzeria, are all giving the new eatery agood name.

When husband and wife duoBenjamin and Sarah Sims opened therestaurant in the heart of the lowerWestside last November, they intro-duced to the neighborhood a casualbut classy fusion of traditionalMediterranean cooking with aCalifornian, farm-to-table sensibility.

Sims, who honed his pizza-making artistry at Chez Panisse inBerkeley before working as a cheflocally at Oswald Restaurant and mostrecently at Ristorante Avanti, says hewanted to explore a more playful,relaxed culinary style than he was ableto practice previously.

“I always wanted something thatwas a little bit more neighborhood-y,”he says. “I wanted something that wasa little bit more now.”

The restaurant is spacious, withlarge windows and rustic woodplank walling—materials salvagedfrom a friend’s barn. The prepkitchen and fire stove are situatedalong the back wall, where pizzadough is mixed and spun up into theair for all to see while the sound ofseasonal veggies being chopped fillsthe air.

“That’s part of keeping it casual,”Sims says, “[we’re] not hiding in theback. We really like people to see uscooking and see where their food iscoming from and how much care allthe cooks are putting into it.”

While the Margherita ($13) andthe Marinara ($10) pizzas are staples,the rest of the menu changes dailyand depends on what Reitzpurchases at the farmers’ market.With the dawn of spring, the piestook on a fresh quality reflective ofthe area’s fruitful fields.

“Spring time brings in a fresh-ness to add to the food,” Reitz says.“It makes things more exciting.” Hergo-to ingredients aren’t always theobvious choices, however. Earlierthis year, she worked with Italianchicory and wild nettles, andconcocted balsamic-esque syrupfrom pinecone resin.

True to its tagline “Don’t Panic,It’s Organic,” Bantam uses allorganic ingredients from local farms.Some of their local veggie suppliers

include Mariquita in Watsonvilleand Route 1 Farms in Santa Cruz,while their meats, which come fromnaturally and sustainably raisedanimals, is produced by their neigh-borhood butcher shop, elSalchichero, and Fogline Farms,where they buy chicken.

Those chickens go into Bantam’sbest-selling dish (which, surprisingly,isn’t a pizza): gluten-free fried chicken($16), served with roasted carrots,fennel and spicy herb salsa. Reitz’ssecret? She soaks the poultry inbuttermilk, dredges it in rice flour,and then fries it.

For Sims, watching Bantambecome a community hub is incred-ibly exciting. He says there’s beenmore support for the restaurant thanhe could have possibly expected.

“There’s this feeling of pride and accomplishment that I get as an owner when people finish theirmeal that’s new to me,” he says.“When diners stop to thank me for opening Bantam, I feel this great satisfaction.” /FW

Bantam, 1010 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz, 420-0101. Beer and wine. Open Mondaythrough Thursday, 5 -9 p.m., and Fridayand Saturday 5-9:30 p.m. Closed Sundays.No reservations.

Farm To PizzaBantam reinvents the pizza wheel with creations that offer atrue, seasonal taste of Santa Cruz By Joel Hersch

Wood Fire Woodie Pizzeria in ScottsValley offers a bevy of unique andtasty pizzas, but The Kona Gold, $17,is a good bet. It contains fresh konapineapple, hickory-smoked bacon anda three-cheese blend on top of freshtomato sauce. 3105B Scotts ValleyDrive, Scotts Valley, 316-9001, woodfirewoodie.com.

At Engfer Pizza Works, on SeabrightAvenue, Megan’s Vegan Pizza makesfor a tasty choice for herbivores andomnivores, alike. It’s made with anorganic tofu spread in lieu ofmozzarella, and toppings of thecustomer’s choosing. Price varies. 537Seabright Ave., Santa Cruz, 429-1856,engferpizzaworks.com.

Pizzeria Avanti, a new offshoot of thebeloved Ristorante Avanti, offers anenticing array of traditional anddistinctive pizzas, including theprosciutto, arugula, tomato sauce,and Parmigiano-Reggiano pizza($15 small, $25 large). 1711 MissionSt., Santa Cruz, 425-1807, avantipizza.mobi. | Kim Reyes

PLUS

ThreePizzas to try

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Early Bird MenuSunday - Thursday

4p.m.-5:30p.m. $14.99Choice of select entree, salad,glass of wine and ice cream

Monday Penny Wine Night

Select wines with purchase of two entrees

Banquet area up to 60 guestsCatering Services Available

Like us on Facebook

Lunch Wednesday-Friday 11:30-2pm Dinner Nightly from 4-9 p.m.6231 Graham Hill Road • Felton, CA 95018Located in the Felton Fair Shopping Center

335-4414 • mamamiasinfelton.com

Established Since 1987

Italian braised beef short ribs served with Italian whipped potatoes and

broccolini. The ribs are topped with a red wine reduction sauce.

Omelets • ScramblesBreakfast Burritos- Pancakes

Soups- Salads • SandwichesJuicy Burgers • Pulled Pork

Mac N Cheese • Chili • Fries

Seasonal Deserts • and Breads Ice Cream • Milkshakes • Sundaes

Breakfast Served All Day

Dine – In -Carry Out- Catering Dine – In -Carry Out- Catering

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Yvette Bilanko attributes her love of food to herupbringing in an Italian

neighborhood in Chicago. Withready access to fresh ingredients,her father prepared the family’smeals from scratch. At CafeIvéta—the eatery she opened inSanta Cruz in June 2010—she insists on following in his footsteps.

“I grew up with all of thisabsolutely wonderful food,” shesays, “which gave me a reallygood palate.”

It was necessity, determina-tion, frugality, insisting on thefinest ingredients, and a little bitof luck that fueled the twists andturns of Bilanko’s culinary life.

She learned to cook when shemarried her husband JohnBilanko, but it was a 1972 issueof Bon Appétit that led her todiscover her passion for creatingin the kitchen.

John’s career as an interna-tional attorney led them to relo-cate to suburban North Chicago.Their family grew to include fourdaughters, and they had investedin commercial real estate whenan economic downturn resultedin John’s loss of employment, andleft tenants unable to pay rent. Tomake a living, the couple decidedto open a cafe like those theyenjoyed in the city, serving goodItalian coffee and food, withattention to details right down tothe house-made caramel sauceand mayonnaise.

Inspired by the resourcefulway in which her parents wereraised in a little town near SanRemo, Italy, she sought creativeand useful solutions—what to dowith egg whites left over frommaking mayonnaise, for

instance—and found herselfresearching recipes in the library.

It was fate that brought theirsignature scones to the Bilankos.A customer had requested some,but they were time-consuming tomake for a mother of four.Bilanko attended a food show ina Chicago snowstorm, anddiscovered a mix created by grad-uate food science students. Thepastries were a hit in the cafe.When the students were ready tomove on, it was John whojumped at the chance to buy therecipes, leading the family intothe wholesale food business. In1999, the scones were a finalist ina Fancy Food show and madeOprah’s O! list.

After visiting their daughterin Santa Cruz, the Bilankos fell inlove with its bay that remindedthem of San Remo and the avail-ability of fresh and artisan ingre-dients. At 50 years old, the deter-mined couple packed up theiraward-winning scones and littleelse, moving their gourmet operation initially to HarveyWest, and then opening the cafeon the Westside.

In addition to its signaturescones, Cafe Ivéta offers fresh-baked pastries made on-site daily,including blinis, bread puddingand Cowboy Cookies, which arecrafted with pecans, oats, choco-late chips and coconut. Breakfastand lunch are also served, withstandouts like a chili chive biscuitwith poached egg and bacon anda caprese sandwich with freshmozzarella and homemade pestoand mayonnaise. /FW

Cafe Ivéta, 2125 Delaware Ave., SantaCruz, 713-0320, iveta.com.

Cafe Ivéta’s artisan treats find afollowing on the Westside By Karen Petersen

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MONDAY

Mini Tostaditas – 4Mango Mojitos – 5

TACO TUESDAY

Three Chicos Tacos – 4Michiladas – 4

WINE DOWN WEDNESDAY

Homemae Sangria1/2 Price Wine Bottle

House Wine – 3Wheat Tortilla Quesadilla withBaby Spinach & Cotijo Queso

SLIDING THURSDAY

Three Carnita Sliders – 4Hornitos Margaritas – 5

FRIDAY

Three Shrimp mini Tostaditas – 4Rosenblume Zinfandel – 5

LA ZY DAY SATURDAY

Pork or Chicken Pozole – 4Pomegranate or Orange Juice

Mimosa – 4SUNDAY

Egg Rancheros Tostada – 4Bloody Mary – 5

BAR & PATIO 3-7PM

655 Capitola, Rd. Santa Cruz11am–9pm (831) 477–9384655 Capitola, Rd. Santa Cruz

11am–9pm (831) 477–9384

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Comfort • Chops • CocktailsHappy Hour

$1 off drinks • 1/2 off appsMonday–Friday 4-6pm

Dinner Daily 5pm-Close Breakfast Fri-Sun 8:30am-3pm

Lunch Sat & Sun 9am-3pm

Weekly Dinner Specials

831.476.2733 | 3326 Portola Dr. Santa Cruz | www.thepointchophouse.com

DISHESIMPOSSIBLE

The word masala, common on the menus of Indian restau-rants, means mixture. It is this multitude of herbs andspices, balanced like an algebraic equation, that draws me to

Indian food. The chefs at Ambrosia India Bistro in Aptos match the spices

to main ingredients, and the concentration of chilies to yourpalate. Even their simple flatbread naan has delicious variations.The garlic naan ($2.95), speckled with peppery, triangular nigellaseeds, is the perfect utensil for scooping up cubes of Murgh ShahiKorma, in which succulent chunks of chicken, chili-cilantrochatni, thick sweet and sour tamarind and spicy pickled vegeta-bles add a different dimension to each bite. /FW

Ambrosia India Bistro, 207 Searidge Road, Aptos, 685-0610,ambrosiaib.com.K

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Make it a culinary mission to find and try these five dishes By Karen Petersen

GARLIC NAANat Ambrosia India Bistro


• Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Daily

• Happy Hour5-7 Daily

• Specialty Cocktails

• Lounge Open Every Day at Noon

Hilton Santa Cruz/Scotts Valley 6001 La Madrona Drive, Hwy. 17 at the Mt. Hermon exit831.440.1000 santacruzscottsvalley.hilton.com

At Conscious Creations, whosemenu is meant to satisfyvegans, vegetarians, and omni-

vores alike, Chef Joshua Server createssymphonies on the plates where anunexpected ensemble of ingredientscome together nicely.

Numerous breakfast combina-tions are served as either burritos ortacos, and never having imagined abreakfast taco, I went for The Basic($6) vegetarian-style, adding baconand avocado ($2). Like a painstak-ingly painted still life, the colorfulvisual appeal was only exceeded bythe impact of its multitude oftextures and tastes.

Like tostadas, two lightly crispedcorn tortillas with a bit of melted

cheese are topped first with home friesthat are made with both soft whiteand (surprisingly) creamy sweet pota-toes. Atop the potatoes are a widevariety of finely chopped vegetablesand herbs including bright redcabbage, onions, dill, cilantro, greensand tomatoes. A pair of buttercupyellow, paper-thin omelets are foldedon top and embellished with tarttomato compote, black and whitesesame seeds, avocado and chewy,salty bacon. /FW

Conscious Creations, 1121 Soquel Ave.,Santa Cruz, 427-9269, conscious-creations-cafe.org.

BREAKFASTTACOS

at Conscious Creations

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24 l food & wine

5447 Hwy 9 Felton 831-335-5551 www.OakTreeRistorante.com

Attention artists:

If you are interested in

displaying at the festival please

email a bio and sample of

your work to

[email protected]

On Tuesday nights, travel the world from the deck of Michael’son Main while overlooking the lush banks of Soquel Creek.Kicking off at 6:30 p.m., live acoustic music accompanies

Chef Michael Clark’s themed food, wine, and beer pairings ($25).So far this year, we’ve been treated to Caribbean nights with

jerked meats and Pelican Ranch wines, Argentine mixed grill withMalbecs, all things pork with juicy spareribs, wedge salad withCorralitos Market bacon and Soquel Vineyards, and “grandma’shouse” with comfort foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes accom-panied by Bargetto wines.

There have also been a number of guest chefs offering theirspecialties, like a Tex-Mex feast with Bob and Kathleen Warfield,which introduced us to pot de chocolat chili, tequila vinaigrette, andCinnabar wines. Check the website for upcoming events.Reservations are recommended. /FW

Michael’s on Main, 2591 Main St., Soquel, 479-9777, michaelsonmain.net.

3TUESDAY NIGHT

‘AROUND D THE WORLD’SPECIALSat Michael’s on Main

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Villeroy & Boch

Anmut Bloom Anmut—the game of possibilities.Whether simple and traditional, understated, or modern and playful, theAnmut collection keeps reinventing itself. Discover thediverse range of possible combinations and give free rein to your creativity.

Smith’s ChinaOpen Mon–Sat 10–5:30

426-31111111 Water Street, Santa Cruz

www.smithschina.com

$450

Well Drinks!8 a.m. – Close

$3Bar Bites!3 p.m. – Close

* Nightly Live Music

Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner | Everyday 8am-9pm1102 Pacific Avenue | Downtown Santa Cruz | 420-0135 | hoffmanssantacruz.com

Soon Featuring a Full Bar!

New Signature Cocktails& Well Drinks!

All Day Every Day $595Mini Bennie: Egg ben-addict with1 egg and potatoes

including…

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Daily: 8am – 11pm106 BEACH ST. AT THE SANTA CRUZ WHARF 423-5271 www.idealbarandgrill.com

Heated Deck!

DAILY DINNER DEALS

Ideal Beach Front Dining$9.95 Ribs

Sunday & Monday

$11.95 Live MaineLobsterWednesday

$11.95 Prime RibFriday

$4.95 BreakfastSpecial(Mon – Fri 8:00–11am, Sat/Sun 8–10am)

Full Service Espresso Bar & Café

open daily at 7am

At Geisha Japanese Restaurant and Teahouse, youwon’t find unagi eel, octopus, or any other endan-gered or irresponsibly farmed or harvested seafood.

What you will find at the county’s only sushi restaurantthat is committed to sustainable seafood are copies ofSeafood Watch’s sushi guide, and a plethora of deliciousdishes that respect the ocean habitats while also delightingyour taste buds.

They serve an amazing sweet, marinated catfish (o-nagi) in numerous rolls, as well as a Baked Seafood Cremeappetizer ($8.50) with shrimp, scallops, and mussels insavory miso sauce topped with vibrant orange masago roe.

But our favorite is the Fire Goddess ($12), an attrac-tive makimono roll that rests in a dark, sweet glaze.Stuffed with creamy raw scallops, green onions, and shisoherbs, it is topped with pink Arctic char, shaved slices oflemon, and crowned with sparkling emeralds of piquantwasabi-spiked tobiko eggs. /FW

Geisha Japanese Restaurant and Teahouse, 200 Monterey Ave.,Capitola, 464-3328, facebook.com/geisha.capitola.

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Our quaint chalet is surrounded bybeautiful redwoods, and filled withBavarian folk music, a warm fire, and friendly service.

19 entrees for $19 or less!

Happy Hour Fridays 4–6pm1/2 off all appetizers and $4 German Beers

Wienerschnitzel Wednesdays$12.00 includes salad

Friday Wild game specials

Opens Mother’s Day Weekend

Pet Friendly • Bounce House for the kids!

Join Us May 18for Mai Fest!

Everything you love aboutOctoberfest!

Costanoa Lodge & ResortCall for Reservations (650) 879-1100

www.costanoa.com

SimplySustainableLocally Grown & SourcedCoastal Cuisine

Sustainable Seafood

Lettuce & Veggies Grown in our garden

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featuring WOOD-FIRED pizzabuild-to-suit or combinations vegan option • organic salads homemade soups and desserts beer and wine to dine-in or TAKE OUT

ping-pong • checkers • smiling faces!

eat and be happy

537 seabright ave • santa cruz • www.engferpizzaworks.com

call 831.429.1856 hoursTuesday – Sunday 4:00 to 9:30pm-ish

WOOD-FIRED PIZZA • ORIGINAL RECIPE SAUCES • HANDMADE DOUGH

New!Gluten

Free

It’s springtime on the posy-rimmed patio atCafé Cruz, where potted trees are ladenwith lemons. The scent of the springtime

air and gentle warmth from the sun isrefreshing and enlightening, leading to acraving for fresh greens.

The huge Tuscan Salad ($15), however, isno lightweight. It takes full advantage of whatthe restaurant does best: spit-roastingCalifornia-raised, natural air-chilled chickens.

A platter was loaded with green andaborigine-colored lettuces of varying texturesand pretty pink radicchio interspersed withsweet strips of sun-dried tomatoes and chunksof white and dark chicken in a light, balsamicvinaigrette. It was topped with plenty ofGorgonzola, grated Glaum hard-boiled eggsand chewy strips of natural bacon. Fresh slicesof Gayle’s Bakery bread, served with freshlyminced garlic, complemented it well. /FW

Cafe Cruz, 2621 41st Ave., Soquel, 476-3801, cafecruz.com.

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5 TUSCAN SALADat Café Cruz


RestaurantSeasonal menu featuring local andorganic ingredients, artisan craftedstone fireplace and high-ceiling redwood beams & a full bar.

InnApart from our great food we alsoinvite you to stay in our inn wheremost rooms have ocean views. Special weekday rates available.

EventsLive Music Every Tuesday and Saturday 6-9pm

Tuesday: Taco Tuesday + live music

Wednesday: Prefix Menu for two: $30

Thursday: Happy Hour and Wine tasting

Call for Reservations: (831) 426 8801 1 Davenport Ave., Davenport http://www.facebook.com/davenportroadhouse www.davenportroadhouse.com

All

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Hours: Monday 8–3pm Tuesday–Sunday 8am–9pm

AA unique location on the Pacific Coast Highway

Just 10 minutes north of Santa Cruz

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Taste the LoveThe Wonderfully Raw headquarters off of

Hangar Way, in Watsonville, is perhaps thesweetest smelling warehouse around.

As home to the company’s flagship product,Coco-Roons, the space is filled with the aromas ofvanilla, maple, lemon, strawberry and other all-natural flavors that make their way into thepopular raw treats.

At the mouth of the warehouse, workersbusily stack and shrink-wrap pallets of Coco-Roons that are destined for more than 1,000stores across the country. Surveying thefortress of boxes of fresh product, thousandsof pounds of almond flour in sacks, and anarsenal of 55-gallon drums of unfiltered maplesyrup, CEO and “Macaroon Maven” SequoiaCheney chuckles. “When I first started, I wasbuying the ingredients at Nob Hill. Now we’redoing contracts with thousands of pounds,”she says.

In the back, past a clean commercial kitchenfilled with employees in crisp white lab coats andhair caps, lies the heart of the operation: a custom-made, walk-in dehydrator. Inside, the air is warmand even thicker with the smell of cookies. Cheneyraises her voice over the machine’s loud whirringto explain that 800 cases of Coco-Roons are madein eight hours in the dehydrator.

As a raw product, Cheney explains, “this cookieis dehydrated at 118 degrees so that all of the vita-mins, enzymes and minerals are still intact.”

At 58 years old, Cheney never expected to berunning a new business. “We’ve been doing this fortwo years now, and we’re still in shock,” says Cheney,who formed the company with her gourmet chef sonEric Hara. “It feels like a dream.”

The determined seed for Wonderfully Rawwas planted when Cheney was diagnosed withdiabetes six years ago. After years of running arttherapy programs in a Southern Californiahospital and then in prisons, Cheney and herhusband, Jack, opened an alternative healingcenter in Watsonville called Three Trees. Thediabetes diagnosis came as a big surprise.

“After having had such a healthy lifestyle, anddoing all of this alternative healing, I thought ‘howcan I get diabetes?’ But it was really a gift because it

put me on a journey to find out even better ways toeat,” Cheney says. Intent on healing herself, shetrained at a raw chef school in Mendocino and wasoff all medication and had reversed her diabeteswithin a year of the diagnosis. In the process, she’dcaught the raw food bug, and was teaching rawcooking classes and selling raw items at Three Trees.The online grocery store Santa Cruz Local Foodssoon began selling her goods, and, not long after,New Leaf Community Markets showed interest inthe Coco-Roons. “They loved it and said ‘We want’em, how quickly can we get them for all eightstores?’” Cheney recalls, “I said, ‘Wow, can you giveme 30 days? I don’t have a bag or a label.’”

The Coco-Roon was designed as a tasty treat forthose with dietary restrictions: in addition to being raw,they are gluten-free, dairy-free, low in sugar (unfilteredmaple syrup is the sweetener), low carb, and organic.“Food is medicine” is the company’s guiding philos-ophy. Wonderfully Raw recently launched a newproduct—raw veggie snacks called Brussel Bites andSnip Chips that are similar to kale chips.

Seated in the office, sounds of the industriouswarehouse streaming in, Cheney pulls a piece ofpaper off of a bulletin board. It’s a letter from a10-year-old boy in Yuba City, Calif. that came inthe mail a few days earlier. Attached to the thankyou letter is a photo of him with a wide smile onhis face and a bag of Coco-Roons in his hand.

“I get these daily,” Cheney says. “That makes it allworth it, when you know you’re changing someone’slife. When a kid takes the time to write you—c’mon.That’s the best thing in the whole world.” /FW

Find Wonderfully Raw online at mycocoroons.com.

Wonderfully Raw’s Coco-Roons make a splash far beyond Santa Cruz County By Elizabeth Limbach


Paradise Beach Grille Specials

Happy HourMonday thru Friday, 4–6pm

1/2 off Special Bar Menu$3 Draft Beers • $4 Well Drinks

$4.50 House Wine

PPAARRAADDIISSEEBEACH GRILLE

Lunch & Dinner served 7 days/week215 Esplanade, Capitola-by-the-Sea

476-4900 • www.paradisebeachgrille.com

Live Bands Saturday and Sunday from 3–6Live Music on Tuesday & Thursday Nights from 6–9

Monday Gary’s Rib NightJoin us for a FULL rack of “fall off the Bone”

Baby Back RibsServed with Garlic Cheese Fries

and Island Slaw for $18All Night Happy Hour

Wednesday Island Surf and Turf6ozs. Of Delicate Lobster with a

Petite Filet MignonServed with Drawn Butter, Garlic Mashed Potatoes

and Seasonal Vegetables $30

LiveMusic!

LiveMusic!LiveMusic!

“Thank you to our customersfor your continued support!”

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These five luscious treats are calling your name By Karen Petersen

A taste of France awaits at Sweet Pea’s Café and Catering, wherecrêpes are filled with savory or sweet ingredients ($6.50).

On a recent afternoon, the chef des crêpes ladles batter onto acircular griddle, spreading it out with a tiny paddle, then giving it alayer of sweet custard and adding warm blueberries, blackberries andstrawberries. Folded into quarters and topped with fluffy whippedcream, it makes for a delectable luncheon. /FW

Sweet Pea’s Café, 2121 41st Ave., Capitola, 476-2737, sweetpeascrepes.com.

Sweet Springtime


783 Rio Del Mar Blvd.Deer Park Marketplace in Aptos (Above CVS) 685.1224 • Open 7am–4pm Everyday

Half Off Second Entrée!

(Equal Value or Less)With this Coupon, $5.00 max value

Valid Mon–Fri. Exp. 10/31/13

Fresh Local IngredientsBeautiful Garden Patio Seating8 Varieties of Eggs Benedicts

& so much more!

Serving Aptos Since 1988!

Open every dayLunch & DinnerTake Out Orders

Thai DinnerFor 2 Under $25

HWY 1exit Bay/Porterto Soquel Drive

(831)) 462-50515050 Soquel Drive.Soquel, near Porter St.www.sawasdeesoquel.com

Café Sparrow in Aptos Village

still going strong after 28 years!

8042 Soquel Drive • Aptoscafesparrow.com

688-6238Open Everyday • Lunch • Dinner • Sunday Brunch

Enjoy 1/2 PricedWine Mondays!

(excluding holidays)

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Frosty beers and smooth ice cream are both things that come tomind during spring. But did you know they actually taste greattogether? This is especially true if the ice cream is organic and hand-made by The Penny Ice Creamery, and the beer is a Santa CruzAleworks’ Stout. In The Picnic Basket’s Beer Float ($8.70), a scoop offresh ice cream counters the fizzy sharpness of the stout and keeps thebeer icy cold as well. Try picking a strongly flavored ice cream.

The Picnic Basket, 125 Beach St., Santa Cruz, 427-9946, thepicnicbasketsc.com.

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BeerFloat

Warm Date CakeWith a new pastry chef on board, it’s really sweet to eat at

Shadowbrook. Sitting by the massive stone fireplace in the Alpine-inspired dining room, I recently enjoyed dark rich coffee whileawaiting the server-suggested dessert ($7.95).

A dense rectangle of warm, date-sweetened cake arrived, driz-zled with and resting in a puddle of thin toffee syrup. The accompa-nying scoop of coconut ice cream, tart with cream cheese, nested onsweet toasted coconut and pecans.

Shadowbrook, 1750 Wharf Road, Capitola, 475-1511, shadowbrook-capitola.com.


854-2244209 Esplanade • Capitola Village

Local Hangout>APPETIZERS

>HAPPY HOUR4-7 MON-FRI

>2 POOL TABLES & A JUKEBOX

WEEKLY LUNCHSPECIAL!12–4 Mon–Fri

tothaifor.org/

Four Items for

$9.95(Reg 13.95)

*One of Each

• Fresh Spring Roll• Homemade

Coconut Soupwith Tofu

• Jasmine Rice• Special Red Curry

with Chicken

201 Monterey Ave.,

Capitola

Weddings & Parties

Stress-Free Beverage Planning Premium

Beer & Wine Selection

4790 Scotts Valley Dr438-0177

NEW 20OZ

MAI TAIONLY $9!

NEW LOCAL MENUHomemade Sweet & Sour

HAPPY HOURDaily 3–6pm Mon–Fri

THURSDAYLOCALS NIGHTHappy Hour 3–Close

231 Esplanade,

Capitola Village

(831)476-2263

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With hearty salads and deliciously filling entrées, it’s a challenge tosave room for a house-made dessert at Focaccia. Then again, it’s a harderchallenge to pass on a single scoop ($3.50) of their house-made gelato.Recently they offered Spumoni, that multi-colored, candied fruit concoc-tion I associate with San Francisco’s Little Italy. Focaccia’s creamy version—a rainbow of hazelnut green, chocolate, and pink with real cherries—reallytakes the cake.

Focaccia, 503 Water St., Santa Cruz, 425-1213, focacciasantacruz.com.

Homemade Gelato

ChocolateNemesis Cake

Besides wood-fired pizzas, the new Bantam restaurant offers memo-rable house-made desserts. Their ultra-creamy flourless ChocolateNemesis Cake ($8) melts on your tongue like sweet, thick frosting,releasing a depth of intense chocolate flavor never before experienced by humankind.

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Chef Markis an acclaimed personal chef who hasthe skill and expertise to turn your nextevent into a culinary delight.

Affordable Chef uses the highest qualitymeats, fish and local Santa Cruz Countygrown organic produce available.

Catering to the Santa Cruz County area

831-325-6924www.affordablechef.info

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Brew Dream and the wondrous new world of kombucha wineBy Elizabeth Limbach

Brew Dream pegs its uniquewines as “kombucha-style,”but when speaking to people

for whom the trendy term“kombucha” holds little meaning,owners Chase Fortner and LauraBradford use descriptions like“sparkling fruit wine,” “probioticwine spritzer,” and “a fresh take on sangria.”

Seated under a large oak tree atBrew Dream’s idyllic Ben Lomondwinery, the pair cracks open a bottleof Apple White. Pale brown andlightly effervescent, the wine evokesthe flavors of fresh apple cider witha subtle, yet noticeable, alcohol pres-ence. Sweet and crisp, the drink hasvery little of the vinegary aftertastenormally associated with kombucha,which—for Santa Cruzans not in theknow—is a popular health tonicmade from tea and fermented yeastand bacteria.

The Grappleberry is rich andfruity, and more like a red wine thanthe Apple White is like a white.Brew Dream, which officiallylaunched in January, strives to sourceonly local and organic ingredients,and the owners are currently experi-menting with a variety of fruits andflavors. A blackberry red, blueberryred, peach white and blueberryginger are all in store when theseason is right. All Brew Dreamwines are crafted by hand in smallfive-gallon batches.

“Our whole philosophynow is to keep it local, withseasonal flavors depending onwhat fruit is available,” saysFortner, who began brewingkombucha wine as a hobbyfive years ago. Although thewinemakers are tightlippedwhen it comes to theirprocess—they are, as far asthey know, the firstkombucha winery in thecountry—they explain thatit involves combining wine-making and kombuchabrewing methods.

"It's a fermentation ofkombucha tea, fruit, andwine, which, whenfermented together,provides all the probi-otic benefits ofkombucha with theadded flavors of localfruits and wines,”Fortner says.

Brew Dream istruly a product all itsown: part fruit wineand part live probi-otic health drink, itcomes in a cham-pagne bottle with acider cap and iscaffeinated, thanks tothe green tea base inthe kombucha. Evenits alcohol content is

unique at around 7.4 percent—much higher than regularkombucha (which is typically.5 percent), and less thanmost wine. Unlike manywines, it’s best to drink BrewDream fresh or soon afterpurchasing—although it won’tgo bad if kept longer, its tasteand makeup will change asthe yeast continue to feed offof the sugars in the wine.

The concept was sonew that the governmentagency in charge of winelabeling, the Alcohol andTobacco Tax and TradeBureau, wasn’t surewhat to do with it.“The wine people inthe labeling divisiondidn’t know whatkombucha was,”says Fortner. BrewDream eventuallygot the word“kombucha” on itslabels, and hope tosomeday also getapproval for“probiotic.” Manyof the purportedhealth claims asso-ciated withkombucha are notscientificallybacked, butFortner and

Bradford are looking to produceevidence for the theories they holdabout their product.

“It’s probiotic, so while it givesyou a buzz, it settles your stomachand aids in digestion, and it detoxi-fies your liver while you’redrinking,” says Fortner. “We aregoing to start working with a lab inPetaluma [Calif.] to back up someof the probiotic and health claimswe have.”

Reactions to the wine have beenpositive so far, says Bradford. It’s ahit on the festival circuit, as well asin local health food stores like Staffof Life.

“If you don’t feel like drinkingsometimes, and you’re at a socialscene, it’s a nice alternative to havinga full liquor drink or a beer,” saysBradford. “It is lighter and seemseasier to digest and handle.”

So far, the duo says Brew Dreamis proving to straddle the linebetween kombucha and wine grace-fully, attracting fans from both sidesof the spectrum.

“One of the most commonthings we hear back,” says Fortner,“is that people who don’t likekombucha, and sometimes peoplewho don’t like wine, like it.” /FW

Brew Dream is available at Staff of Life,New Leaf Community Markets, and atbrewdream.com.

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Loma Prieta Winery: Viognier 2009As a lover of Viognier, this is one of my favorites. Adeserving gold medal winner in the Sommelier ChallengeInternational Wine Competition, this luscious wine hasbeautiful notes of vanilla and tropical fruit with superbaromatics and a vibrant hue. Touches of sweet lychee andhoneyed apricots add to its appeal and make it a wine tocrack open and simply enjoy anytime. Although the wineis available in stores around town, I would suggest a visitto the Loma Prieta tasting room, which has stunningviews of the Monterey Bay. ($24) 26985 Loma PrietaWay, Los Gatos, (408) 353-2950,lomaprietawinery.com.

Bruzzone Family Vineyards: Chardonnay 2010The Bruzzone family started out making Chardonnayfrom grapes grown on their property in Scotts Valley in1999, and their wines just get better and better. Handharvested in late fall and oak barrel processed, this 2010estate-grown Chardonnay is fresh and bright with hintsof apple, citrus and a lovely touch of light coffee.Bruzzone wines are available in stores and restaurants allover the Bay Area. ($27) 438-3120,bruzzonevineyards.com.

Vino Tabi Winery: Pinot Gris 2009Vino Tabi means “wine journey” in Japanese, so take yourown little excursion and try this aromatic Pinot Gris.Delightfully refreshing, this is a good wine for those wholike something on the lighter side. White peaches on thenose with ripe peaches and stone fruit in the mouth, anda crisp fresh grapefruit finish. Pinot Gris pairs well with awide array of food. Head to Vino Tabi’s tasting room onthe Westside to try their other wines. ($25) 334 IngallsSt., Santa Cruz, 426-1809, vino-tabi-wine.com.

Martin Ranch Winery:Sauvignon Blanc 2011Sauvignon Blanc is one of my all-time favorites, andMartin Ranch makes a good one. The J.D. Hurley 2011Sauvignon Blanc has subtle aromas of green apple andlight grassy straw with flavors of apricot and citrus fruit.An ideal wine to consume in the spring and summermonths, it’s also great to pair with fish or to take on apicnic. Martin Ranch has “kissed” the wine with a hint ofSemillon by adding just 1 percent to the 99 percentSauvignon Blanc. ($20) 6675 Redwood Retreat Road,Gilroy, (408) 842-9197, martinranchwinery.com.

Bargetto Winery: Chaucer’s Honey MeadAs well as making their well-known Bargetto wines, thewinery also makes dessert wines under its Chaucer’slabel. Taking you back to brews made in medieval times,the Chaucer’s wines are made from pure fruit and containhoney from hives in Northern California. This mead willgo well with dried fruit, nuts, and most certainly with ahearty variety of cheese. You can also add a few spicesand serve it heated. ($15) 3535 N. Main St., Soquel, 475-2258, bargetto.com.

Artesana Wine: Tannat-Merlot 2010Artesana is an ultra-premium boutique winery based inthe Canelones region of Uruguay. With a blend of 53percent Tannat (the signature varietal of Uruguay) and 47percent Merlot, this bold and spicy wine has gorgeousexotic flavors and is muy bueno. Imported by Epic Winesof Aptos, the Tannat-Merlot is sold in restaurants andwine shops throughout California and can be purchasedlocally at Soif, Vino Prima, Cava, Deluxe Foods of Aptos,Michael’s on Main, Johnny’s Harborside, Mint, and OakTree Ristorante. ($20) 419-7485, artesanawine.com.

Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard: Grenache 2010This delicious 100 percent Grenache wine is all aboutdark raspberries, exotic spices and white pepper. It has alovely spicy complexity with flavors of wild strawberriesand a peppery character commonly found in this variety.Very flexible, it will pair easily with just about everything,from pizza and pasta to poppadoms and paella. ($18) 334 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 426-6209, santacruzmountainvineyard.com.

Heart O’ The Mountain: Pinot Noir 2009When you buy a bottle of estate-produced Heart O’ TheMountain Pinot Noir, there’s also a little bit of historyattached: the grapes were grown on the old estate offamous movie director Alfred Hitchcock, which is nowin the hands of the Robert Brassfield family.Fortunately for us, winemaker Brandon Brassfield isdedicated to his craft, and makes some of the finestPinot Noir around. I particularly love the 2009Pinot with all its rich and spicy intrigue, earthyaromas, and full-bodied flavors. ($48) Visitheartothemountain.com for where to buy, as the estate is not open to the public.

Corralitos Wine Company: Syrah 2010Luscious plum is accented with bright raspberryand crisp acidity in this excellent wine, which willpair well with many kinds of food. A touch of oakand hints of black pepper give this ruby beauty aspicy warmth—a flexible wine to open up for anyoccasion. Corralitos Wine Company now has atasting room in the Store More America buildingin Aptos. ($27) 9687 Soquel Drive, Aptos, 709-1500, corralitoswinecompany.com.

Poetic Cellars: Mantra 2007Try this delectable blend of 45 percent Mourvedre,45 percent Syrah and 10 percent Sangiovese to geta delicious surprise on your taste buds. Succulentred fruit from the Mourvedre and the richness ofthe Syrah come together in harmony with theSangiovese and create a smooth and specialamalgam. ($34) 5000 N. Rodeo Gulch Road,Soquel, 462-3478, poeticcellars.com.

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Like jewels in a crown, our beautiful wineriesin the Santa Cruz mountains area are truegems. Many are hidden away up winding

mountain roads, or down long country lanes, butthey lie, conveniently, on our doorstep. Our climatehas the perfect balance for growing superb grapes,and for turning these delicious little globes intoexcellent wine.

But to make it to the mouths of appreciators,wine needs to be marketed. This is where MeganMetz of the Santa Cruz Mountains WinegrowersAssociation (SCMWA) comes in. SCMWA wasformed to support and arrange public wine eventsfor participating wineries in the Santa CruzMountains appellation, and now has more than 70member wineries from Woodside to Gilroy. Metzbegan her new position as executive director ofSCMW in October 2012, and has already made anumber of changes in operations and the directionthe association is heading. As wine tasting becomesever more popular, Metz is looking to secure thisregion as a destination travel spot.

Metz, who was born in Santa Clara and haslived in Los Gatos, Soquel and Santa Rosa, is gladto be back in the Santa Cruz area and working atSCMWA. She comes from a wine-region back-ground and was executive director of theMendocino Wine Grape and Wine Commission.Coming into her new job, she started with a 30-day assessment of SCMWA operations, includingraising membership dues and reaching out exten-sively to the media, both local and national.

“You have to look at more of an integratedmarketing program,” Metz says. “They weremissing components like bringing media to theSanta Cruz Mountains.

“It’s not like we want to be another Napa,”Metz adds. “We’re not big enough. But weproduce wines that are Napa quality, and my goalis to get the word out and to introduce wines ofthe Santa Cruz Mountains to those who are notvery familiar with them.”

Working with Shannon Flynn, director of opera-tions at SCMWA, Metz is revamping many of theannual events put on by the association. An extra daywas added to one of the most popular events, PinotParadise, which took place in March, and the one-dayWine & Crab Taste-Off every February has now beenexpanded to involve more local restaurants and byextending this fun gourmet event to a week.

“It’s almost like we turned the lights on,”Metz says. /FW

By Josie Cowden

SANTA CRUZMOUNTAINWINEGROWERSASSOCIATION & MEGAN METZ


Discover why the Corralitos area has become the grape growing region everyone is talking about!

Visit these small, family-owned wineries on any Saturday,

noon to 5pm, and taste our locally grown and produced

wine—all located within an easy drive of each other.

Enjoy an afternoon of wine tasting and picnicking, meander-

ing through redwood forests, apple orchards and flower farms.

The wineries are also open on selected holiday weekends.

Call the wineries direct or visit their websites for more information:

Corralitos Wine Trail

Pleasant Valley Vineyards288.0074 • [email protected]

Alfaro Family Vineyards728.5172 • alfarowine.com

Nicholson Vineyards724.7071 • nicholsonvineyards.com

Windy Oaks Estate724.9562 • windyoaksestate.com

Enjoy wine tasting along the beautiful

From Our Family to Yours HHFreshFish.com (831) 461-1576

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There was nothing verydiscrete about DiscretionBrewing’s March opening—

the county’s new brewery has beengenerating buzz for months.

“Since we put our sign up on41st Avenue, every day we hadpeople coming in saying ‘We’re soglad to have something on this sideof town’ or ‘I live just down thestreet,’” says Dustin Vereker, thebrewery’s Chief Beer Ambassadorand son-in-law of owners Kathleenand Rob Genco. “Folks seem reallyexcited that we are opening.”

After a few years of planning,the Discretion team, themselves,are also excited to be up andrunning. “We’d been talking aboutstarting a family business of somesort for years,” says Kathleen, who quit her job at a private schooltwo and a half years ago to makethis family-owned organic brewerya reality.

While the brewery’s receptionhas been anything but, the “discre-tion” moniker translates into itsoverall mission and vibe: from theoff-the-beaten path location, tuckedaway just off of 41st Avenue, to itsdesire to be more of a mellow placefor community gathering than arowdy watering hole or sports bar.(To foster that, they close at 8 p.m.and don’t have any televisions.)

“We wanted something thatimplied subtlety and thoughtful-ness and kind of a safe place, asanctuary,” says Kathleen.

For the most part, the beers—allorganic—will also stick to that theme.

“We don’t necessarily want tohave huge, in-your-face, high-alcohol beers all the time, which issort of a trend,” says brewer MichaelDemers, who has been brewingprofessionally since 1995, mostrecently at Boulder Creek Brewery.“We want to offer more sessionablebeers that people can come andenjoy a few and still be able to leaveand be safe.”

The opening lineup includes aGerman-style pilsner, a mild brownale, a “nice and hoppy” AmericanIPA, and a strong ale that embodiesboth the bold and slightly sweetstyle of a traditional English old alewith that of a West Coast Americanale. “It won’t be big and hoppy likean IPA, but it will have some bitterness to the backbone,”explains Demers.

Discretion expects that itslagers—the pilsner, and others inthe works—will be what set it apart.“That is a niche that is not filled inSanta Cruz County—no one isreally doing lagers except for maybeonce in a while as a specialty,” hesays. This is because they are moredifficult and time-consuming tobrew, which Demers says is worth it.“They’re our personal favorite—weall love them,” he says.

The space is designed so thatpatrons can see the beer making.“You can smell the process, you cansee the process, you get the wholeexperience,” says Vereker. Demerswill be on hand to answer questionsand will provide tours to thoseinterested in a firsthand look atwhere the magic happens.

The brewery’s unique take onpub food is also sure to make itstand out. Discretion has pairedwith Main Street Garden & Café forits taproom fare, which is inspiredby, meant to pair with, and oftenmade using Discretion’s own beer.

Main Street will operate as a pop-up at Discretion, serving upseasonal, sustainably minded disheslike pilsner-braised Brussels sproutswith breadcrumbs and chili madewith Discretion beer and sausagesfrom Fog Line Farm pigs (which, asit happens, feed on Discretion’sspent grain).

But for all of its distinctiveness,the Discretion team considers itselfone part of a larger whole. Theywere regulars at Santa CruzMountain Brewing before decidingto open their own brewery, and saythey have received continuedsupport from that Westside beerhub and many others. “It’s verymuch a community,” says Kathleen.Discretion is one of three micro-breweries to open in the county thisyear, bringing the total number oflocal breweries to around 10—making the Santa Cruz craft beerscene officially a force to be reck-oned with, says Demers.

“Santa Cruz is now getting tothe point where it can be considereda beer destination,” he says. “Eachbrewery is different and producesdifferent tasting beers. There is roomfor more.” /FW

Discretion Brewing, 2703 41st Ave., Ste.A, Soquel, discretionbrewing.com. Open 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. every day.

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‘Wisdom, wit, kindness and beer’ isthe motto at Santa Cruz County’snew brewpub, Discretion Brewing

By Elizabeth Limbach

Kathleen Genco >


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Free Wifi • Full Bar • Outdoor Patio • Signature Cocktails

Heffenweizen: Santa Cruz AleWorks A light, blonde wheat beer, theHeffenweizen is a great springtime beverage,with light and refreshing qualities. With 22bitterness units and a mellow 5.2 percentalcohol content, this crisp, unfiltered beer iswell-balanced and easy on the palate. Pair witha spicy dish. Available at The Poet & PatriotIrish Pub. Pints $5; happy hour pints $3.75;pitchers $16.

Devout Stout: Santa Cruz MountainBrewing With aromatic hints of dark, Italianroasted coffee and bittersweet chocolate, thisorganic stout is a thick, rich and creamy brew. Itsdark coloration, a pleasantly rounded 35 IBU,and smooth, almost syrupy texture make theDevout Stout a beer worthy of dessert pairings—raspberry chocolate truffles, suggests the brewer.Alcohol percentage: 5.5. Pints $5; happy hourpints $3.50.

Good Faith Strong Ale: DiscretionBrewing This is a lumberjack’s beer. PaulBunyan—the giant with the axe who was famousfor chopping down trees—would drink GoodFaith. This organic beer from the county’s newestbrewery, on 41st Avenue, has subtle hints of toffee,a strong, hoppy finish, a whopping 61 IBU, and,just to be sure it could satisfy a giant, a 9.3 alcoholcontent. Suggested pairing: ox tail. Available atDiscretion’s taproom. 10-ounce pour $5.

Saison Bernice: Sante AdairiusRustic Ales Despite slightly rural aromas ofhay and citrus, this ale has a sophistication to it.Saison Bernice is light and refreshing uponconsumption, but also holds its own at 6.5percent alcohol content. It’s tart to the tastebuds, which comes from Brettanomyces yeast,making this a great beer to enjoy with seafoodor strong and flavorful cheeses. AvailableThursdays and Fridays, 4 to 8 p.m., Saturdaysand Sundays, 1 to 7 p.m. Snifter glass $5;750ml bottle $15.

Casserly Pale Ale: UncommonBrewers This Belgian style harvest pale ale isbrewed with fresh, wet hops from a small farm inWatsonville, just off Casserly Road—the originsof its name. The Casserly, which has a 5.2percent alcohol content, is brewed with a blendof West Coast and German hops and a heartyaddition of Biscuit malt, giving it a nicelyrounded, toasty malt character. Available at 99Bottles. Pints $5.75; happy hour pints 4.75;pitchers $16.25; happy hour pitchers $13.25. | Joel Hersch


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It may be months away, butlovers of organic beers and theever-evolving microbrew culture

are already getting excited about thethird annual California BeerFestival, which takes place Saturday,Aug. 10 at Aptos Village Park.

Last summer, more than 3,000fans turned out to sample 35entries from local and nationalbrewers. The winning brew was the

smooth, creamy Oatmeal Stout bySanta Cruz’s own SeabrightBrewery. The goal of CBF is toshine a light on the craft beermovement, educating people’spalates on delicious and innovativecraft beer and all of its satisfyingdiversity, says CBF PresidentVincenzo Giammanco.

“One thing I can tell you isthere will be more craft beer repre-

sented and the entertainment willbe top notch,” he says of the 2013event, which also features livemusic and food. New this year willbe Santa Cruz County Beer Week,which kicks off Aug. 4 and leadsup to the festival. Beer Week willhighlight everything about localbeer in Santa Cruz County. “It’stime to celebrate great beer,” saysGiammanco. /FW

California Beer Festival Santa Cruz,12:30 – 5 p.m., Saturday, Aug. 10,Aptos Village Park, 100 Aptos CreekRoad, Aptos. $30/adv. $35/door. Kids5 and under are free. VIP session isfrom 11:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.;break-in pouring from 12:30 – 1p.m. Tickets went on sale April 2.

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The Bruce With Oswald’s offerings of enticing cocktails, it can be hardto pick just one. But bartender Ben Caruso makes the decision easy. Hesuggests The Bruce. “It’s a more refreshing Old Fashioned,” Caruso says ashe sets the cocktail down. THE RYE WHISKEY IS COUPLEDWITH FRESHLY SQUEEZED JUICE OF AN ORGANICBLOOD ORANGE, giving it a satisfying bite—like you’re sinking yourteeth into the flesh of the fruit itself. ($11) | Aric Sleeper

Prickly Pear Margarita Tortilla Flats inSoquel should be at the top of every margarita lover’slist. THEIR SEASONAL PRICKLY PEARMARGARITA USES NOPAL (CACTUS)GROWN BY OWNER CHERYL MARQUEZ.SERVED ON THE ROCKS WITH A WEDGEOF LIME, the margarita has a taste that is strongerthan it is sweet with a hint of melon. Paired with theirhouse-made chips and salsa, the Prickly Pear Margaritaprovides an easy escape from the worries of the day.($10.50) | AS

The Golden James At the Crepe Place, where the fashionframes and beards run thick, ask veteran bartender Eric Norlin forone of Santa Cruz’s more simple and delicious cocktails, The GoldenJames. THE VIBRANT WHISKEY ELIXIR CONTAINSJAMESON AND ORGANIC GINGER BEER, MADERIGHT HERE IN SANTA CRUZ, SERVED ON THEROCKS WITH A WEDGE OF LIME. ($7) | AS

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Lunch • Dinner • Appetizers • Specialty CocktailsFood: 11am-9pm Fri/Sat 10pm Drinks: 11am-late.

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The Last Request Leave it to 515 Kitchen and Cocktails to whipup a luscious take on the classic Last Word cocktail: this complex-yet-deli-cate remake features HOUSE-INFUSED ROSE SENCHA GIN(SENCHA, AS IN JAPANESE GREEN TEA) PAIRED WITHFRESH LEMON JUICE, ROTHMAN & WINTERS ORCHARDPEAR LIQUEUR, CHAMOMILE CITRUS BITTERS, AND ANITALIAN HERBAL LIQUEUR CALLED LIQUORE STREGA.Not too sweet, with herbal, floral, and citrus notes, the cocktail is certainlyworthy of being anyone’s last request. ($8) | EL

The Glen or Glenda The cocktail bar at burger. comes alivethanks to mixologist Alice Graves, who pours her vivacious energyinto every concoction she makes. Graves mixes one of burger.’s signa-ture cocktails, the Glen or Glenda, with particular care. The androgy-nous drink is comprised of HOUSE-INFUSED CUCUMBERVODKA, PIMMS, STRAWBERRIES, CILANTRO, FRESHGINGER, LEMON JUICE AND CRUSHED ICE. With arefreshing flavor and Romanesque garnish of organic thyme, evenBacchus would drop his wine glass and give it a try. ($7) | AS

The Pega The bold, invigorating flavors of spring arealive and well in this cool libation, which, like all concoctionsat Suda's bar, features ingredients grown in the Santa Cruzarea. FORTALEZA REPOSADO TEQUILA ISCOMPLEMENTED WELL BY SPICY FRESHGINGER AND LOVELY BASIL. ($9) | Elizabeth Limbach

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David Wright, co-owner of Hidden PeakTeahouse, has a message for the peopleof Santa Cruz: slow down.

“That’s what tea has done for thousands ofyears,” Wright says. “It inspires people to slowdown, and reminds us that it’s OK to stop.”

As I dip down the Plaza Lane alleyway off ofPacific Avenue, and step inside Hidden PeakTeahouse, I almost turn around to make sure Iam still downtown.

Eastern décor, tea ware, intricate woodentables, and antique furniture fill the space. Noone is using phones or computers. A table ofthree men converses over a plate of steamedbuns, while a nearby woman sips a small bowlof tea without taking her eyes off a book. Arecord player fills the air with waves of analogsound.

Wright is quick to welcome me to this other-worldly sanctuary. With a beaming visage andslender frame, Wright resembles a plain-clothed,middle-aged monk. He ushers me to a privatetearoom where we sit around a wooden tablethat looks as if it has grown up and out of thefloor itself.

“The thing that’s most important, they call itthe mother of all tea: water,” Wright says as hefills an electric boiler—the only apparent elec-trical device in the teahouse.

Wright became interested in tea in his lateteens, around the same time he moved to SantaCruz, and began experimenting with it more in hisearly twenties. He soon found a passion for pu-erhtea and the gung fu style of ceremony, but didn’ttruly fall in love with the traditional beverage untilhe shared it with his wife and co-owner MarileeWright more than two decades ago.

“The only reason I’m doing this is reallybecause of her,” Wright says. “She’s the one whogot me inspired.”

The Wrights opened Chaikhana Tea Culture,their first teahouse in Santa Cruz, in 2003, but

eventually outgrew the small space. With thehelp of “tea angels” as Wright calls them, he andhis wife were able to open Hidden PeakTeahouse in March 2012.

After the water is boiling, Wright pours itinto the clay teapot, a glass pitcher, the smallceramic cups, and douses three woodenfigurines, called tea pets, which occupy the table.Wright pulls me into the moment with thepageantry of the gung fu ceremony.

The cup of unblended brick pu-erh tea isearthy, but sweet. This is one of the morepopular teas at the teahouse, and one of Wright’sfavorites. He recommends all newcomers try pu-erh, but Hidden Peak offers all manners of tea,from oolong to green.

After a thorough discussion of tea culture’spast, present, and future, Wright explains whythe name Hidden Peak was chosen.

“It’s where the teas grow in the high moun-tains,” he says. “You have to go through theclouds to find it.” /FW

Hidden Peak Teahouse, 1541 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz,423-4200, hiddenpeakteahouse.com.

Here Now

Hidden Peak Teahouse is Shangri-la in Downtown Santa Cruz

By Aric Sleeper

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So begins the story of TaylorPeck’s rise to artisan sodamaestro. The journey began in

an apartment at UC Santa Cruz’sKresge College, where, in 1995,Peck and some roommates put onevents on campus, and then intown, under the name Nub Circus.The real adventure began duringsummer break in 1996, when Peckand future part owner of his busi-ness Nate Brogan traveled across thecountry selling raw-food burritosand chai tea, “which, in 1996,despite its hundreds of years ofinfiltrating other cultures, was moreor less new to ours,” says Peck.

The road trip culminated with astop at Burning Man, where they setup a booth and served free chai.“That was when I realized it was abig thing, and it was there I had myepiphany that I wasn’t going back to

school,” he says. He took a leave ofabsence from college to pursue abeverage career, and never lookedback. “I’m sure they expire, but forall I know I’m still on a leave ofabsence from UCSC,” he jokes.

The chai-focused company tookan unexpected turn around fouryears ago, when it got stuck with alarge amount of a unique chaiconcentrate they had made for aclient. “We were sitting on enoughinventory of this concentrate that itcould have toppled the company ifwe hadn’t found an outlet for it,”says Peck, who decided to test it outin a chai soda concept he had beencontemplating. “It was an immediateperfect fit. It was meant to be.”

Now 16 years old, the companyhas morphed into a craft brewer ofall-natural sodas, including theflagship Chai Cola, that hearken

back to the early days of botani-cally rich soft drinks. “It comesform a period of time when sodaswere first coming into vogue medi-cinally,” explains Peck, adding thatTaylor’s Tonics are made in smallbatches by hand using distinct,mostly organic ingredients. “There’sa certain amount of magic andwitchy-ness to everything we do.”

The small company now hassodas in 700 retail locations across40 states, and recently opened astore, The Fizzary, in SanFrancisco’s Mission District, wherethey carry 900 varieties of softdrinks from craft soda companies,of which Peck says 25 percent arenatural and 10 percent are organicor “earth-based.” While most of itsoperations now take place in SanFrancisco, Taylor’s Tonics still hasroots (and a Watsonville facility) in

the Santa Cruz area. “Santa Cruzestablished our company ethos,”Peck says.

“We’ve cycled through 16 to 20product concepts, looking for ‘theone,’” he adds. “Taylor’s Tonics isthe first one we genuinely think hasnational legs.”

Although, while they arecertainly better for you than a sodaof the conventional, high-fructosecorn syrup variety, Peck is quick topoint out that Taylor’s Tonics arestill a treat.

“We are trying to enrich ourproduct with the original botanicals[found in sodas],” says Peck, “Butwhen someone asks, ‘Is this goodfor me?’ I say that we have oneguarantee—we guarantee it willmake you not thirsty.” /FW

Visit taylorstonics.com.

“It was fate, I suppose.”

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Taylor’s Tonics uses Santa Cruzroots to craft old-fashionedlibations By Elizabeth Limbach


831.458.1212 cafemare.comLunch: 11:30-2:30 | Dinner: 5-10 | Euro Brunch: Sat & Sun 10-2pm • 740 Front Street, Suite 100

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charliehongkong.com

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Five years into its existence, HalfMoon Bay-based nonprofit Not ForSale took stock of its work

combating global human trafficking anddecided it needed a new approach.

“We looked at everything and said‘we are going to be doing the same workforever unless we start addressing theroot problems,’” says Allison Trowbridge,Santa Cruz native and NFS’s vice presi-dent of strategic partnerships. “[Weasked] ‘What would it look like to go tothe source of the issue?’”

The organization decided to focus onthe Madre de Dios region of the PeruvianAmazon, where they already had long-term relationships with the indigenoustribes and boots on the ground workingto protect them from trafficking.

The idea was born to create a sepa-rate, for-profit beverage company thatwould source ingredients from theregion, creating a sustainable enterprise.The end result is REBBL, a line of healthtonics that hit stores—beginning withNew Leaf Community Markets in SantaCruz County—this spring. In addition tocoordinating the procurement of theherbs REBBL uses, NFS will be a bene-factor of the new company.

“The funds that come back allow us toreinvest in the region,” says Trowbridge,explaining that NFS’s work in Peruincludes job training, putting children inschool, artisan training, and communitydevelopment.

REBBL CEO Palo Hawken wasbrought on to develop the tonics,which come in Hibiscus Mint, GingerCitrus, and Forest Berry. His vision wasto craft good-tasting drinks usinglegendary, therapeutic-strength medic-inal herbs in levels that “have biolog-ical relevance” and aren’t just“marketing gimmicks.”

“We are taking the culmination ofthousands of years of work and knowl-edge and reverence for a few culturallyimportant herbs from around the worldand giving them a place in the modernNorth American supermarket,” Hawkensays.

It was important to him that theproducts stand on their own two legs asdesirable drinks—a distinction that willultimately make the tonics an even morepowerful agent of change, he says. “Mostefforts like this, to me, are not destinedfor success,” says Hawken. “Usually thequality of the product takes a backseat tothe focus on the message, and theassumption that the message is enoughto exist in the marketplace. Well, themarketplace is ruthless. It buys what itwants and rejects what it doesn’t. Whatwe have here is a product thatcompletely justifies its own existence,which is ultimately to Not For Sale’sbenefit.” /FW

For more information, visit rebbltonic.comand notforsalecampaign.org.

New beverage combines taste and quality with a humanitarian mission By Elizabeth Limbach


Downtown Eats

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Art & Chocolate This Mother’sDay weekend why not take mom toArt & Chocolate on beautifulMonterey Bay. Twelve art gallerieswithin a two-mile radius of the LiveOak/Pleasure Point area of SantaCruz will open their doors to the

public. The free event presentsvarious local artists and art formsincluding painting, ceramics, andglasswork, and, of course, chocolatetreats will be available at each studio.Sixth Annual Art & Chocolate, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., Saturday,

May 11-Sunday, May 12, 462-9337, maggiehellmann.com.

The Strawberry FestivalJoin the Walnut Avenue Women’sCenter when they shut down aportion of Walnut Avenue for theirannual Strawberry Festival this June.This free festival celebrates all thingsstrawberry, and features carnivalgames, bouncy houses, a dunk tankand giant slide, more than 100 prizesto be raffled off, and entertainmentprovided throughout the day. The25th Annual Strawberry Festival,11a.m.-4 p.m., Saturday, June 1, WalnutAvenue (between Rincon Court andChestnut Avenue), 426-3062, wawc.org.

Festival Del Nopal TheFestival Del Nopal is back for itsfourth year celebrating the pricklypear cactus and the rich culturesurrounding it. The prickly pear hasbeen a staple in the diet of LatinAmerican people for centuries, andthis festival seeks to honor its manyuses. The free event features a varietyof cactus dishes, recipe contests, livemusic, dancing, and more. FourthAnnual Festival Del Nopal, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sunday, July 28, 176 Lincoln St.,Santa Cruz, 295-2518, festivaldelnopal.com.

TheWatsonvilleStrawberryFestivalThis August, visit historicDowntownWatsonville forthe 19th annualWatsonvilleStrawberryFestival. The free event celebratesthe sweet red fruit with carnival ridesand games, a variety of local foodvendors, live entertainment, andactivities for the whole family.Watsonville Strawberry Festival, 10a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday, Aug. 3-Sunday,Aug. 4, Watsonville City Plaza on Main,Peck, and Union streets, 768-3240, city-ofwatsonville.org.

Scotts Valley Art and WineFestival Celebrate local artistsand winegrowers this August inScotts Valley’s SkyPark. More than100 artists will be presenting theirwork this year, so there will be some-thing for every taste and style. Thefestival features wines from localwineries, beer from the area’s micro-breweries, live music, a “Kids’Korner,” and a variety of things to eatin the “Fabulous Food Court.” Scotts

Food & Wine Festivals

A cactus-based dish at Festival del Nopal.


(831) 458-2321 • 555 Soquel Ave. Santa Cruz • ristoranteitaliano.bizOpen for lunch Mon–Sat. 11:30–2 and a limited menu from 2–4pm Mon-Fri.

Dinner nightly starting at 5. Full Menu available for Take Out.

$3.50 well drinks! $3.50 drafts (20 oz.)! 1/2 selected appetizers!

Happy Hour M-Th 4pm-6pmOutdoor Patio Dining

A Santa Cruz Institution

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Sunday Night

Lasagna & Wine$15.95

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Cioppino(featuring fresh local seafood) Only $16.99

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Spaghetti Dinner$9.95

Valley Art & Wine Festival, 10 a.m.-6p.m., Saturday, Aug. 10 and Sunday,Aug. 11, SkyPark, 361 King’s ValleyRoad, Scotts Valley, 438-1010, scottsvalleychamber.com.

The Young Farmers andRanchers TesticleFestival If you have ever beencurious about trying a rocky moun-tain oyster, here is your chance. Thefifth annual Testicle Festival featuresall-you-can-eat rocky mountainoysters alongside a full barbecuedinner. With an “All in the Sauce”competition for the best homemadedipping sauce, a horseshoe tourna-ment, live music, and dancing, thisevent is a must for all adventurouseaters in Santa Cruz County. FifthAnnual Testicle Festival, 3-7 p.m.,Saturday, Aug. 24, Estrada Deer Camp,500 Mount Madonna Road, Watsonville,722-6622, agri-culture.us.

Greek Culture and FoodFestival The Prophet Elias GreekOrthodox Church presents the 33rdannual Greek Food Festival, asampling of the unique cuisine andrich culture of Greece right here inSanta Cruz. This weekend-long eventwill feature a variety of authenticGreek foods like dolmathes, mous-

saka and gyros, among many others.There will be live music, costumeddance performers, church tours, araffle to win a free trip to Greece,and more than 20 vendors withjewelry, clothing, and crafts.The 33rdAnnual Greek Culture and FoodFestival, 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Friday, Sept. 6,11 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday, Sept. 7, 12 p.m.-8 p.m., Sunday, Sept. 8, ProphetElias Greek Orthodox Church, 223Church St., Santa Cruz, 429-6500,propheteliassantacruz.org.

Santa Cruz County Fair The2013 Santa Cruz County Fair prom-ises to be a good old-fashioned timefor adults and kids alike, ripe withtraditional and unique culinary offer-ings. This year, attendees can alsoenjoy a presentation from KobertAnimal Productions Exotic BirdShow and Turkey Stampede, a visitfrom Dr. Solar and his travelingmedicine show, pig races, and acharro horseshow on Sunday. 2013Santa Cruz County Fair, Sept. 10-15,Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 2601East Lake Ave., Watsonville, 724-567,santacruzcountyfair.com.

Capitola Art and WineFestival It wouldn’t beSeptember in Capitola without the

annual art and wine festival by thewater. This year’s event will boastwine tasting from 21 local wineries,and will feature 150 local artists froma variety of mediums, gourmet food,and live music. The festival alsofeatures a children’s art area,performance arts groups, street

performers, and more. The 31stAnnual Capitola Art & Wine Festival,10 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday, Sept. 14 andSunday, Sept. 15, on the Esplanade inCapitola Village, 475-6522, capitolachamber.com. | Aric Sleeper

Food & Wine Festivals

The sun shines on the Capitola Art and Wine Festival.

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Inspired by her grandfather, Kirk Smith, and his favorite dessert (mocha almond fudge ice cream with a generous pour of Disaronnoliqueur), Amey Mathews created this delectable dairy-free cookie.

Yummus is a delightful party dip that pairs well with sweet apples,juicy jicama, red radishes, raw zucchini and celery sticks.Preparation time is 15 minutes, and yield is about 4 cups.INGREDIENTS:1 cup raw pumpkin seeds2 cups water2 15-ounce cans cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained1 cup coconut juice1/2 cup fresh lemon juice3 cloves garlic1 inch fresh ginger root, peeled and minced1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, including most of the stem1 ripe avocado1 tablespoon raw tahini1/2 cup olive oil1 tablespoon agave or maple syrup2 teaspoons salt

SOAK THE PUMPKIN SEEDS IN WATER FOR FOUR TO SIXHOURS OR OVERNIGHT. Drain and set aside. If you are usingcanned chickpeas, drain and rinse them. Place the chickpeas and thesoaked pumpkin seeds in a food processor or Vitamix with all of theremaining ingredients. Process for 20 seconds, scrape down thesides of the food processor bowl and blend again until smooth. Ifyour Yummus is too thick or pasty, add an additional few table-spoons of coconut juice until you reach a creamy consistency.

INGREDIENTS:3/4 cup whole almonds (or 1 cup almond meal)3/4 cup whole grain spelt flour (or 1 cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour)1/2 cup turbinado sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder1/2 teaspoons baking soda1 1/2 - 2 teaspoon instant coffee granules3 tablespoons chocolate chips (mini chips are best)1/4 cup Disaronno liqueur 2 tablespoons canola oil1 teaspoon almond extract

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Put almonds in a foodprocessor and grind to a fine meal. Measure out 1 cup of almondmeal and place in a large bowl. Add in spelt flour, sugar, bakingpowder, baking soda, the instant coffee granules and chocolate chips.Whisk to combine. In a separate, smaller bowl, combine theDisaronno, oil and almond extract and whisk to combine. Pour thewet mix into the dry mix and stir until fully combined. Form thedough into golf ball-sized gobs (they may be a bit crumbly). Placeballs on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper, and press downto flatten a bit. Bake for 11 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack.

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good times food & wine spring 2013

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picnic basket page

brew dream page

food winespring

springas santa cruz

yourculinary journey

madekombucha wine

hidden peak teahouse

glutenfree cocoroons