Table of Contents

Footwork……………………………………..2

Catching……………………………………..4

Positioning…………………………………..9

Diving………………………………………12

Advanced Diving………………………….16

Parrying & Punching…………………….18

Breakaways……………………………….21

Distribution……………………………….24

Tactics…………………………………….29

Advanced Tactics………………………...33

Penalty Kicks…………………………….36

Psychology………………………………..38

Laws of the Game………………………..40

1

Footwork

Good footwork is the foundation of solid goalkeeping. If a keeper has quick feet, they can easily get themselves into position to make the easy catch, rather than having to dive at balls just at the edge of their reach all the time. Good goalkeepers make every save look easy, and the key to that is good footwork.

Footwork Principles

* Keep moving and stay on the toes. The feet of a good goalkeeper are constantly in motion, and they dance on the balls of the feet. A sure way for a keeper to get beat is to have their weight back on their heels. Watch for this! Not only does this keep them from moving quickly to a ball, but it has bad effects on their diving and jumping. Your keeper should have "happy feet", always bouncing on the toes and with their weight forward.

* Stay square to the ball.

Fig. 1Fig. 1: Stay square to the ball The goalkeepers hips and shoulders should always be square to the ball; that is, perpendicular to a line between the shooter/ball and the keeper. (Fig. 1). A common problem is for young keepers to turn sideways when collecting balls that aren't in front of them. Make sure they always square up - to do this, they must also...

* Get behind the ball. It is easiest to make the save when the ball is directly in front of them, so they should use their feet to get behind the ball every time, if possible. A goalkeeper uses two types of steps to do this: 1. Shuffle step - this is used for short distances. The body stays square to the ball, the feet shuffle quickly but never cross over. Right foot stays on the right, left on the left. 2. Crossover step - used to cover more ground. Turn the hips and run in the direction they want to go, but with their upper body facing the ball. Again, don't cross the feet up - right on the right, left on the left. This is not a carioca or "grapevine" step, where one foot passes in front of and then behind the other alternately. If there is a long way to go, use the crossover, then end with a few quick shuffles to adjust the final position for making the catch. A common problem, especially for young players, is to cross their feet and trip themselves up. Make sure right foot stays on the right, left on left.

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* Move forwards to the ball. The save should always be made forwards, moving towards the ball. This accomplishes two important things: it allows the keeper to get to the ball faster, and it gives the keeper the proper angle to deflect any balls that aren't caught away from the goal. Do not let your keeper take a step back when they catch the ball. If anything, they should take a step forward.

* Recover quickly, and always keep your hands free. Just because the goalkeeper goes down with a dive or slide does not mean the play is over. A parry or deflection may keep the ball in play, and perhaps send it right to an attacker! The goalkeeper must regain their feet as quickly as possible. Preferrably, this is done without using the hands so the hands are ready to make a stop if necessary. There is no set method for doing this, but goalkeepers should practice getting back up quickly and without the use of their hands.

Again, footwork is the foundation of solid goalkeeping! Often the difference between a save and a goal is just half a step. Use the feet to get the body behind the ball.

Fig. 2: The ready position At the moment a shot is taken, the goalkeeper should be square to the ball, on their toes with their knees bent, hands at the sides, weight forward, ready to spring quickly in any direction. This stance is called the ready position (Fig. 2).

Even as the keeper is moving, they should always be close to this position so they can react quickly to a shot. The keeper should almost always come to the ready position just as a shot is taken, so they can react in any direction necessary. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Footwork:

(+)Keep the feet moving(+)Stay square to the ball(+)Always get the body behind the ball(+)Move forwards toward the ball(+)Recover quickly with hands free(+)Stay close to the ready position

Mistakes to Watch For:

(-)Not getting completely behind the ball(-)Back on the heels(-)Feet crossing over each other(-)Stepping backwards on the save

3

Catching

The only advantage a goalkeeper has over any other player on the soccer field is that they can use their hands. In this way, a goalkeeper can control the ball in a way no other player can, but to gain this control, they must catch the ball.

Catching technique is second only to footwork in making a safe, solid keeper. "Soft" goals that just slip into the net and rebound goals are tough for the keeper and the entire team to deal with. Proper training and practice can prevent these.

The Two Principles of Catching

The first thing to remember about catching a soccer ball is always get the hands to the ball first!. The occasional kick save may be necessary, but a goalkeeper's hands are their advantage and they should always try to exercise that advantage whenever possible. The "hands to the ball first" axiom applies to every single technique in goalkeeping.

The second thing is a keeper must have "soft hands". This means they must use their arms, back and legs to cushion the ball, absorbing its energy and allowing them to hang on to it. When reaching for a ball, the arms should be extended (but don't lock the elbows!), then the elbows bend as the catch is made, allowing the arms to absorb the speed of the ball. The keeper can also bend back a bit at the waist to help cushion the ball. A quiet catch is a good, soft catch. If the ball loudly slaps the hands, the keeper is not giving enough with the ball. Don't allow the keeper to take steps backwards to cushion the catch - remember, the keeper should always move forwards towards the ball.

There are several basic types of catches used by soccer goalkeepers.

* The "W" or Contour Catch

Fig. 1a (L), 1b (R): The "W" or contour catch The "W" or contour catch is used for any ball from about waist height up. The hands cradle the contour of the ball, with the thumbs and index fingers forming a "W" behind the ball (Fig. 1a). It's critical that the hands, especially the thumbs, be behind the ball - if

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a keeper tends to catch the sides of the ball, without the strong thumbs behind, they will let balls get through their grip and let in easy goals.

The hand position can be varied somewhat. For younger keepers or those with small hands, bring the wrists closer together, thumbs almost parallel, to get the most stopping power behind the ball (Fig. 1b). More experienced keeper with more hand strength should rotate the wrists outward, getting more of the contour of the ball and thus better control.

For balls high in the air, the hand position is the same. However, the goalkeeper must also take additional steps to ensure they can catch the ball cleanly: * Jump to catch the ball at the highest point possible. Keepers must not wait on a high ball in the air and make a basket catch at the waist! They must get to the ball above their heads. If the ball is not caught high, attackers can rush in and head the ball away before it gets to the keeper's hands. Watch carefully for this and insist they use proper technique. * Raise one knee, the one nearest any opposing pressure, as they jump. This provides extra boost for the jump, and also can provide some protection against onrushing forwards. However, a goalkeeper should never raise their knee with intent to injure or "send a message" to another player. The knee is primarily used to generate additional height on the jump, secondarily as a fender against collisions. It should be kept close in to the keeper's body.

If the keeper gets their hands to a high overhead ball, but the ball rolls off their hands and down, they may need to cock their wrist back more to get the hands in better catching position.

Fig. 2: Inverted contour catch*The Inverted Contour For balls below the waist, the inverted contour or basket catch is used. The hands are again behind the ball, this time downwards with the pinkies together (Fig. 2). Here again it is critical for the hands to be behind the ball.

For very hard, low shots, the goalkeeper needs to ensure their momentum is forward and their weight is over the ball. Older, more advanced goalkeepers should use the front smother technique for these shots (see the Advanced Diving page).

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* Ground or Rolling Ball Pickup There are several techniques for picking up a rolling ball. For all of them, the keeper must get their hands all the way down, fingertips brushing the ground to ensure a clean catch.

The straight-leg pickup seems to be falling out of favor lately, and most goalkeepers use the knee-bent pickup and its moving variation. in fact, since basic footwork principles tell us we should move forwards to the ball, the moving pickup is probably used the most of any of these techniques.

* Straight-leg pickup (Fig. 3) - the keeper bends from the waist, slightly bent at the knees, with feet behind the ball. Catch with the hands, then bring up to the chest. Use this save when there is no pressure. Watch out for young or not very flexible keepers who bend from the waist but cannot get their hands all the way to the ground. This is a recipe for missed balls. These keepers should probably use the following bent-knee pickup instead.

Also, a keeper should not use this type of save when under pressure from opposing forwards. It does not allow enough ability to move out of the way if necessary, and puts the head low and in a vulnerable position as well. Use a moving-ball pickup, below, to run through the ball or out of harm's way, or make a sliding save as for a breakaway. * Knee-bent pickup (Fig. 4) - keeper staggers their feet slightly, one just behind the other. Keeper bends at knees and waist, one foot beside the ball and the other behind the ball, catch with the hands and then bring up to the chest. Although the feet are staggered, they should be behind the ball and close enough together that a ball cannot slip between them. * Moving pickup - similar to a knee-bent pickup, but used when the keeper is on the move towards the rolling ball. The foot on the goal side of the ball is placed beside the ball, the other foot behind the ball. Keeper is low as they approach the ball, scoop with hands behind the ball and not on the sides of the ball, and continue to move through the ball in one continuous motion. * Knee-down pickup (Fig. 5) - contrary to what many young goalkeepers seem to be taught, this save is actually one of the least used because it restricts mobility. This technique is only used in special situations, on long, low, hard shots on uneven fields or wet grass. It gives the keeper the largest "backstop" for low balls that may be difficult to corral. Keeper bends one knee; the other goes down almost to the ground and very close to the other heel. The down knee should not touch the ground and should not bear any weight, so that the keeper can easily get up and move if need be. Also, the gap between heel and knee should be less than a ball width, for obvious reasons.

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Fig. 3: Straight-Leg Pickup Fig. 4: Bent-Knee Pickup Fig. 5: Knee down pickup

For any low balls, the legs must be kept more or less together and behind the ball. Opening the legs invites the "ole" goal right through the wickets - quite embarrassing for the keeper!

Protecting the ball after a catch

The proper position for protecting a ball after a catch is made is shown in Fig. 6. Both forearms vertical, with hands curled over the top of the soccer ball. In this position it is almost impossible to dislodge the ball. The forearms should never be held horizontally like a running back receiving a handoff.

Fig. 6: Protecting the ball

Your keeper should not attempt to protect the ball too soon after a catch. Too often, keepers attempt to bring the ball to the protected position before they have made a clean catch, and end up bobbling the ball, or attempt to make a "catch" in the protected position and end up having the ball ricochet away from their chest or forearms. I cannot stress enough that catch must always be made with the hands first. In fact, if there is no pressure on the goalkeeper, it may not be necessary to protect the ball at all. If the catch is secure, the keeper should be able to simply hold the ball in the catching position. Catch/protect should be two distinct actions - in fact, they should be two distinct sounds as the goalkeeper makes the save - the first the sound of the ball hitting the hands, then the sound of the ball being protected against the chest.

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Also, do not allow the goalkeeper to bat the ball in front of them and then catch it. They should be able to "stick" the catch in good catching position right away, using arms, back and legs to cushion the ball as mentioned above. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Catching:

(+)Hands to the ball first(+)Soft, quiet, cushioning hands and arms(+)Good catching position - "W" with thumbs behind the ball or inverted contour with pinkies touching(+)High balls need to be caught at the highest point possible(+)On ground pickups, get fingertips all the way to the ground by bending at the waist and knees(+)Protect the ball properly, but only after the catch has been made securely

Mistakes to Watch For:

(-)Trapping ball with body part other than hands (chest, forearms, etc.)(-)Hands on the sides of the ball(-)Waiting on high balls(-)Legs apart and not behind the ball(-)Attempting to protect the ball before the catch is secure(-)Knees on the ground at any time

8

Goalkeeper Positioning

Along with footwork and good catching skills, positioning provides the foundation of good goalkeeping. A keeper who is always in position makes it look like every shot goes right to them, because the shooter has nowhere else to put the ball. Poor positioning leaves vast areas of net for a shooter, or even an empty net.

Basic Positioning Principles

Fig 1. The Center Line Position

Fig. 2 Covering the Angle

First, to position themselves accurately, the goalkeeper must know where the goal is! It sounds obvious, but during the scramble of a game a keeper can lose track. When the play starts moving towards the goal, the first thing the keeper must do is check the posts to make sure they are starting off with good position. Then, whenever they can divert their attention for a split second, they should check the posts again to make sure they've maintained that good position in the face of a moving ball.

Second, the goalkeeper must always try to position themselves on an imaginary line that runs from the center of the goal to the ball (Fig. 1). This puts them in position to get to either post equally well. The center line determines the side-to-side positioning.

Third, the goalkeeper must position themselves far enough off the goal line to cover the angle created by the ball and both posts. They should be able to cover either post with a couple of quick steps (footwork!) and a dive if necessary (Fig. 2). The angle and the keeper's ability determine the forward/backward positioning. Many young or timid goalkeepers tend to stay very close to the goal line - sometimes right on it. They must be taught to come off the line if they are to cover any shots near the posts.

How far out a keeper must come depends on their size and ability - smaller goalkeepers or keepers with a poor range will need to come farther out to be able to cover the entire angle.

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But don't forget the third dimension not represented in these pictures: height. A keeper who is far off their line is more likely to be beaten by a chip over their head, so that must also be put into the equation. The keeper must adjust the forward/backward position so that they're confident they won't be beaten easily over the top.

Positioning Around the Goal

The goalkeeper must constantly adjust his or her position as they move around the goal. Let's look at what happens as the ball changes spots. Fig. 3: The Goalkeeper's Arc

Fig. 4 Adjusted Arc

At a tight angle, with the ball near the end line, the angle the keeper needs to cover is very small, so they can stay near their goal. However, the keeper must stay outside the near post. This will prevent them from deflecting a shot into their own net inside the near post. At sharp angles the goalkeeper should always position themselves so any ball they deflect at a right angle (they should already be square to the ball) will go outside the near post.

Here's a quick way for goalkeepers to tell if they are outside the near post: if the goalkeeper, while square to the ball, points their arms straight out sideways, the arm nearest the goal should be pointing outside the near post. If it is pointing into the net, the keeper needs to take another step or two out from goal.

As the ball moves further out onto the soccer field, the near post is not as much of a concern any more, but the keeper must move further out to cover the angle.

Figure 3 shows conceptually where a keeper should be positioned (red dots) as the ball (black dots) moves around the edge of the penalty area. The blue line shows the shape this makes. The actual size of the arc will differ depending on the size and skill of a

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particular keeper, but the general shape will remain the same. (The angle lines are only drawn on the left side of the illustration to avoid clutter.)

If we look at the top of the arc, though, we notice that the keeper is very far off the line (sometimes 10-12 yards out!) and likely to get chipped, especially if they're not very tall. So we need to adjust the top of the arc to account for high balls. The top of the arc gets flattened, bringing the keeper back to a position where they have a chance to get to any ball over their head (Fig. 4). Again, the exact position will depend on the size and skill of the player. Shorter, less skilled keepers will be more comfortable closer to the goal line, others may be comfortable closer to the six.

Tony DiCicco calls this concept the "Arc Angle". It can easily be demonstrated on the soccer field with three ropes about 50 feet long, one attached to each post and one to a stake at the middle of the goal line. Place the ball at varying spots around the penalty area and have the keeper find their position, then place a cone there. When the exercise is finished, the cones will show that keeper's arc as in Figure 3. Adjust for chip shots and you'll end up with the keeper's arc as in Figure 4.

A keeper should learn this arc and use it as a general guideline for how they position themselves as the ball moves. Notice that this arc roughly follows the goal box. Make sure the keeper notes how their own arc matches or differs from the goal box, so they can use the goal box as a reference during practices and games. However, do not let a keeper, especially a young one, think they must move along this arc at all times. If the ball quickly changes position, they must move as quickly as possible to cover the new position, cutting across the box if necessary.

Also, remember a given keeper's arc will change as they gain size, strength and ability. You may want to run the exercise with the ropes once a season to see if their arc has changed.

Positioning Within the Penalty AreaDiscussion of where the goalkeeper should be in the penalty area when the ball is elsewhere on the soccer field is in the tactics section. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Positioning:

Mistakes to Watch For:(+)Know the location of the goalposts(+)Stay on line between the center of the goal and the ball(+)Move far enough off the line to cover the angle to each post(+)Be aware of balls over the head when way off the line(+)At sharp angles, always play outside the near post

(-)Not checking the goalposts frequently(-)Staying planted on the goal line

(-)Standing inside the near post on sharp-angled shots

11

Diving

The dive can be the most spectacular save in soccer, with the goalkeeper seemingly flying in out of nowhere to keep the ball from hitting the net. It's an important part of the keeper's arsenal, but a keeper must have sound fundamentals to perform a dive successfully.

Diving should only be done as a last resort - good footwork and positioning should eliminate the need to dive often. Beware the keeper who loves to dive too much and dives even on what should be easy saves. It looks impressive, but safety should come first.

Basic Principles of Diving

Many of the fundamentals of footwork and catching also apply to diving: stay square to the shooter, move forward towards the ball, use the hands to catch the ball. For diving, they are expanded a little.

* Use good footwork to get into position to dive. Small shuffle steps, or occasionally even a quick crossover, need to be used to get the body into the proper range to make the dive. * Move forward at an angle into the dive. The Right Angle:Just why do soccer goalkeepers dive backwards? The explanation, and a Java applet that lets you cover all the angles. The first step going into a dive should be sideways towards the ball and forward at roughly a 30-degree angle. This gives the keeper the proper angle to deflect balls away from goal. One of the biggest problems for keepers is diving backwards - they put their weight on their heels and stretch backwards, and often will deflect the ball back into the side netting. Don't let this happen! Make sure they start with their weight forward on their toes and step forwards into the dive. * Get low and shoot out towards the ball. Drive with the near leg, starting low to generate power. This should come as a natural progression after the step forward at the angle. * Stay square while diving and after landing on the ground. Even while in midair, the keeper's body should be square to the ball. Why? Because this gives them the best catching position, gets the largest part of their body behind the ball, and will have them land on their hip and side which is the safest landing position. Same thing goes after they are on the ground. Do not allow the keeper to turn face-down while making the catch and land on their stomach! Not only can the ball slip through, but landing on the ball can injure the keeper. Similarly, don't let them roll over on their back after the catch is made. * Catch the ball with the hands first, then cushion the fall. Many young keepers are afraid of falling to the ground while diving and fail to make the catch in the first place. Always make the catch first, with the hands in good catching position, then worry about landing. If they have good technique and land on their side, it will hurt much less. In addition, if they make a good catch and have the ball in their hands, they can use the ball as a cushion to soften the landing.

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The Collapsed Dive or "Cradling"

The collapsed dive or "cradling" is used on balls fairly close to the goalkeeper but far enough to the side that just reaching out to make the catch does not get any of the body behind the ball. The intent is to move the entire body behind the ball and get the hands in good catching position.

The sequence of events on a collapsed dive goes like this:

* Use quick footwork to get into proper diving position * Step to the side the ball is on, forward at an angle * Use the near leg push to drive to the ball * Get both hands to the ball to make the catch, using a good "W" catch * Collapse softly to the ground, putting the ball down first to cushion the fall and landing on the side (hip and shoulder)

Extension and Aerial Dives

For balls further away, the keeper must extend and get into the air at the same level as the ball. Again, the whole idea is to get the body behind the ball and the hands in good catching position.

The technique is similar to a collapsed dive, except that now the keeper must generate extra power to drive the body both horizontally and vertically to get into catching position. In addition, the landing will be a bit more difficult since the keeper will be "falling" from higher up.

The technique for aerial or extension dives is this:

* Use quick footwork to get into proper diving position * Step to the side the ball is on, forward at an angle * Drive outwards, and upwards if necessary, with the near foot, starting low and exploding for maximum height and distance - the goal is to get the body at the same height as the ball. For low balls, no height is needed so don't waste energy going up to make "rainbow", just drive horizontally. * Bring the knee of the other leg across the body for additional boost * Get both hands to the ball to make the catch, using a good "W" catch * Bring the ball to the ground first to cushion the landing, then land as softly as possible on the side (hip and shoulder)

Again, the diving technique attempts to get the body and hands into position to make a good clean catch. In fact, when a dive is properly executed, the body should be in the same position as when making an easy head-high save standing up. The only difference is that you are horizontal three feet off the ground! Of course, it can be difficult for young keepers (especially girls) to achieve great height or distance, but if they develop proper technique early the height and distance will come with age and strength.

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The combination of stepping and driving with the near foot and then getting extra boost from the other knee is often referred to as the "power step". Many young players, especially girls, will not have sufficient leg strength to get airborne very well. That's okay - just introduce them to the proper technique. A good power step and the ability to explode to the ball will come in time. But don't let them omit the power step, even if they can't generate much power now.

Also, many young or beginning goalkeepers will be afraid of the landing. Tell them to stop thinking so much and just do it! Focus on getting to the ball and staying square and the landing will take care of itself. This can be tough to get past, so be patient.

However, be careful not to overtrain younger keepers when working on diving, particulary aerial and extension diving. Introduce the basics of proper technique, but don't push keepers who aren't ready for the physical aspects of diving.

Finally, if they don't come up with the ball, the keeper should be ready to spring back to their feet immediately to make another save if they can (the ball doesn't always end up in the goal when we miss!). If possible, they should get back up without using their hands. Once the hands are put down on the ground to push off, they become useless. Quick recovery, with hands ready, can often keep the ball out of the net. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Diving:

(+)Use good footwork to get into position first(+)Step forward into the dive(+)Stay square to the shooter(+)Catch the ball with the hands first(+)Power to the ball with the near leg, opposite knee drives across for extra boost(+)Land on the side (hip and shoulder)(+)Don't use hands to get back up

Mistakes to Watch For:

(-)Diving backwards(-)Turning over onto stomach or back after the save(-)Weak power step and drive to ball

Why do Goalkeepers Dive Backwards?

As a goalkeeper, I was always taught to dive forward at an angle for balls. This is also what I coach. However, many goalkeepers have a strong tendency to dive backwards. You even see this at the international level. Why is this so common when supposedly the coaches have taught them otherwise?

I encountered a fellow on rec.sport.soccer who claimed a goalkeeper should always dive backwards, since it gave them more time to react to the ball (he was obviously not a goalkeeper coach!). But there had to be some reason why the tendency was so strong. I decided to write a short program to simulate the problem and see what it could tell me.

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Why Dive Forwards?So given that the best angle to dive at is often backwards, why coach goalkeepers to dive forwards? There are still four very good reasons, three of which don't show up in this simulation. They are listed in roughly their order of importance:

* Greater acceleration and speed Backwards dive angles may be optimum at a certain speed, but in any situation the dive angle decreases as the goalkeeper speed increases. A forward step allows a more explosive power step and greater acceleration and speed on the dive. The legs can't generate nearly as much power with a step backwards as with a step forwards. In a close case, a few extra fractions of a foot per second of extra speed generated might turn a "dive backwards and miss" into a "dive forwards and make the save". You can easily see this in the applet above. The faster the goalkeeper speed is set, the better the forward angle. * Better angle of deflection If the goalkeeper gets to the ball but does not make a clean catch, they have a much better chance of knocking the ball away from the goal if they are diving forwards. A goalkeeper diving backwards often will manage only to knock the ball into the side netting. * Better catching position It is easier to catch a ball that is coming straight at you - not rising or falling. As a goalkeeper dives backwards, the angle the ball approaches the keeper's hands becomes greater, seeming to travel "upwards" from the palms towards the fingertips. To get a "straight on" hand position, the keeper would have to dive at the angle perpendicular to the flight of the ball - and this angle is always forwards if the keeper is properly positioned. * Better coverage of the goal with the body Diving square means that the length of your body is covering the largest portion of the goal. This can be crucial if the dive is misjudged or the ball takes a bad hop. As the dive turns backwards, the keeper gets more and more "feet on" to the shooter and the body covers less of the goal.

To conclude, the goalkeeper response of diving backwards is to be expected, since that's where the easiest interception point may be. The human mind is pretty good at instinctively judging angles (as a friend of mine put it, "You don't have to know much about trigonometry to figure out that bus is going to hit you if you step off the curb."). Our challenge as coaches is to overcome the instinct in order to teach the players how better to keep the ball out of the net. ------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Advanced Diving

The two techniques on this page are reserved for goalkeepers who are a bit older and have the physical skill to perform them. As a rule of thumb, these diving techniques should be introduced to youngsters starting at about the U12 or U13 level. Like other diving techniques, these are rough on the body, so be careful not to overtrain them.

The Front Smother

The front smother, also known as the forward dive, forward smother, or forward vault, is actually a very commonly used technique at higher levels of the game. It is used on hard, low shots or balls that are going to "short-hop" the keeper. Essentially, it is a combination of a moving ground-ball pickup and a basket (inverted contour) catch, with momentum taking the goalkeeper forward over the ball and to the ground. This ensures the keeper completely smothers the ball and does not give up a rebound.

The goalkeeper should strive to get the ball before it hits the ground if possible, but whether the catch is on the fly or on the short hop, the goalkeeper needs to be attacking the low ball aggressively and not waiting and risking a funny bounce.

The steps in a front smother are: * Move towards the ball. This is a dive, so the goalkeeper needs some forward momentum. Try to get to the ball before it hits the ground if possible; if not, get it on the short hop. * Catch the ball similar to the technique for a moving ground ball pickup: hands low and together in a basket, feet staggered. Catch the ball with the hands -- do not try to trap it between the arms and chest. * Bring the ball up into the protected position. * Continue the momentum forward and low over the ball, with the legs stretching out behind. This gets the goalkeeper's knees out of harm's way. * Go to ground, using the forearms to cushion the landing.

A sure sign of a keeper who needs to learn a front smother is if they consistenly drop to their knees to field driven low balls that are going to land around their feet. If you see this, teach them to attack the soccer ball and gather it in with a front smother before it hits the ground.

The front smother is here in the Advanced Diving section, rather than the Catching section, for a couple of reasons. First, young goalkeepers should first learn to stay on their feet as long as possible, and encouraged to handle as many balls as they safely can without going to ground. I usually don't introduce the front smother until goalkeepers are at least 12 years old or so. Second, this is a physically demanding technique -- it puts stress on the arms and upper body even when done correctly, and can take a toll on the knees when done improperly -- and young goalkeepers may not be up to the task. You can introduce the technique at any age, but be careful not to overdo training on these techniques and don't push any goalkeeper who isn't ready.

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The Rotation Dive

One of the most difficult balls to stop is the hard, ground-hugging shot just a yard or so from the goalkeeper's feet. Often a reaction kick save is the only way to get to such a ball, but if the keeper has just a bit more time they may be able to get their hands to the ball using a rotation or "windmill" dive.

Although they may appear to break them from time to time, goalkeepers are still subject to the law of gravity. A keeper's center of mass simply will not get to the ground any faster than gravity will allow. However, a goalkeeper can get their hands and upper body to the ground faster than gravity alone by rotating their body around the center of mass. Rather than push up or out, the legs are used to give rotational force to keeper's body

The technique is rather different than other dives, as it does not start out with the usual step toward the ball. In fact, the first step is actually away from the ball:

* Drop the shoulder nearest the ball, then take the leg nearest the ball and pull it up underneath the body and away from the ball. This starts the body downward and imparts some of the rotation. * Reach downward for the ball with the near hand. The far hand will be late arriving with this technique; that's to be expected. * As the fall continues, kick the far leg out and upwards. This continues the rotation and gets the upper body to the ground and behind the ball. * Finish the dive in proper position, square to the ball.

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Parrying & Punching

There are a few occasions when a goalkeeper will not be able to catch the soccer ball. It still must be kept out of the net, of course, so sometimes the keeper must deflect the ball over the crossbar or around the post. For high crossed balls in traffic, sometimes the safest play is to knock the ball way from the goal area if it cannot be caught. These are more advanced techniques, and often not as useful for very young keepers (particularly parrying shots over the bar, where a small keeper is as likely to just push the ball into the top of the net).

PARRYING

A ball may be too far away to catch cleanly, but sometimes just a fingertip to the ball can be enough to send it high or wide. Parrying, or tipping, is the technique used to do this.

The open hand (heel of the palm or fingertips, depending on the save) should be used to redirect the ball, not the fist. Extended fingers have a few more inches of reach than the fist in addition to having more control. Don't let your players try to punch the ball around the goal - punching is reserved for crossed balls and is discussed separately below.

Parrying High Balls

The most common use of parrying is to get to balls chipped over the goalkeeper's head. The technique is very similar to how a baseball fielder might play a similar ball hit over them. The basic steps are these:

* Decide (quickly!) which side the ball is going to. If it's coming directly at the keeper, they should just pick their most comfortable side. * Get the hips pointed in the proper direction - turn left if going back to the left, turn right if going back to the right. This can also be accomplished by simply taking one step back with the foot on that side. * Use a crossover step to get back as quickly as possible. * Power step upwards, slightly backwards (the only time a keeper will ever be allowed to go backwards!) and through the ball. The keeper should aim to get to the ball as high as possible - above the level of the crossbar if they can. * Get the opposite side hand to the ball. If the ball is on the left, for example, the keeper should use the right hand. This is because as the keeper turns sideways, the opposite hand becomes the "top" hand and will be closest to the soccer ball. * Use the fingers and top of the palm to simply direct the ball straight up. The momentum of the ball will provide enough energy to get over the bar. The ball should not need to be pushed up over the bar - if it's coming slowly enough to require a good push, it should probably be caught instead of parried. In addition, the palm should always face forward - the keeper should not turn the palm towards the goal and try to push or "dunk" the ball backwards over the crossbar.

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* Don't worry too much about the landing. Some keepers like to use their twisting momentum to roll out of the landing; others just land however they fall.

Good footwork, from hip turn to crossover to power step, is critical to a good parry over the crossbar. A keeper should never back straight up on a ball over their head - it puts their weight on their heels and can lead to balls pushed into the top of the net, or worse yet, a bruised tailbone as they fall over backwards.

Parrying Balls Around the Post

The technique for tipping balls around the post is similar to that for extension diving, except only one hand is used. Which hand? The closest to the ball. For low balls, this will be the one on the ball side, or the bottom hand once the keeper dives. For high balls, the hand on the far side should be used, as this will be the top hand when the keeper is horizontal.

To parry a ball around the goalpost:

* Use good footwork to get into position for the dive * Explode through the ball, forward at an angle, using extension diving technique * Lead with the hand closest to the ball, using the heel of the palm to deflect the ball outside the post. The heel of the palm provides the most solid surface to contact the ball while still maintaining some control.

Make sure the keeper goes forward at an angle when parrying around the post - the ball will not be caught, so a goalkeeper diving backwards will all too often just deflect the ball into the side netting.

PUNCHING

Punching, or boxing, is used to clear away crossed balls that cannot be caught, usually in heavy traffic. It is not a technique used often, as the ball should be caught whenever possible, but can be very effective in allowing a keeper to demonstrate they have complete control over their goal area. If there is any doubt for a keeper that they they will not be able to catch a cross, it should be punched. "When in doubt, punch it out" (but remember this applies only to crosses, not shots!).

Punching hand positionThe three keys to an effective punch are:

1. Width - getting the ball towards the sidelines, out of the center of the soccer field 2. Distance - getting the ball as far away from the goal as possible 3. Height - getting the ball over the attacking players

The proper hand position for punching is important for best control and for avoiding finger injuries. The hands should form a fist, with the four fingers forming a flat surface,

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and the thumb pressed firmly against the side of the fist but below the flat surface out of harm's way. The flat surface allows for the most control, as well as getting sensitive knuckles out of the way. Do not tuck the thumb inside the fingers, as this is just asking for a hand injury.

Punching can be done with one hand or both hands. This is determined by the direction you want the ball to go: If you are trying to send the ball back in the direction it is coming from, use two hands. If you want the ball to continue away in the same direction it is already going, use a one-handed punch.

A two-handed punch starts with the fists placed together to form the largest surface possible. The hands should start close to the body, elbows at the sides, and then explode through the ball, utilizing back and hip muscles as well, to drive the ball high, far and wide of the goal. Often a weak punch results when the ball is struck with arms already extended, so make sure the hands start from close to the body.

The hand takes the same shape for a one-handed punch as for a two-handed punch; use the flat surface formed by the fingers. Use a one handed punch to box the ball in the same direction it is already going: use the arm on the same side the ball is coming from, and punch in a powerful, compact motion across the body to send the ball on. Avoid a wide, looping swing as this does not generate much power. This should be a punch, not a slap! ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Parrying:

(+)Use drop step & crossover to go back on the ball(+)Use opposite (top) hand on high balls, same side (low) hand on wide balls(+)Drive though the ball(+)Use open hand and fingers to guide the ball around post(+)For wide balls, go forward at an angle

Mistakes to Watch For:

(-)Using fist to deflect ball around goal(-)Backing up on heels for balls over head(-)Pushing ball upwards with full hand(-)Turning the palm and pushing ball backwards or "dunking" it

Quick Summary - Punching:

(+)Use for crosses that cannot be caught(+)Try for maximum width, distance and height(+)Fingers form flat surface, thumb behind fist(+)Two hands to send the ball in the opposite direction; one hand to continue it in the same direction(+)Start with hands in, elbows out, and drive through the ball

Mistakes to watch for:

(-)Fingers not forming flat punching surface(-)Thumbs tucked inside fist(-)Punching with arms already extended(-)Wide, looping swing on a one-handed punch

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BREAKAWAYS

The breakaway save requires all that a goalkeeper can muster - technique, timing, toughness, and courage. A successful save can turn the tide of a soccer game and lift the whole team, but it has to start with a solid technical foundation. Proper technique also serves to keep the goalkeeper from injury in what can be an extremely dangerous situation.

There are three key components to a breakaway save:

* Positioning Proper starting position is critical, since leaving the goal from a bad spot will either strand the keeper in no-man's land or leave a wide-open net for the shooter. As the opponents bring the ball into the goalkeeper's defending third, the keeper should already be backing up towards the goal (see Tactics: Coming Off the Line). As the ball gets within shooting range (35-40 yards; less for younger players), the goalkeeper should back up to a few yards off the line and check their position relative to the goal. Now they are in good starting position and set to come out and challenge a breakaway if necessary. * Timing A perfectly executed save at the wrong time can make a keeper look foolish, but a well-timed attempt, even with imperfect technique, has a chance of stopping the attacker. The keys to timing the save are: 1. Time the attacker. Be ready to charge the moment the attacker makes a mistake. Wait for the attacker to make a long touch, and try to get to the soccer ball when it is as far off the attacker's foot as possible. Barring that, the keeper should start the challenge just as the attacker touches the ball, so that they get there before the attacker can get another touch. For more discussion on when to come out, see the tactics section. 2. Match the attacker's pace. If the attacker is coming in slow, the goalkeeper should approach slowly. If the attacker is moving quickly, the goalkeeper should too. If the keeper charges a stationary attacker, the attacker can easily cut around the keeper; if the keeper is too slow, a fast moving attacker will be by them or get a shot off before they can react. 3. Leave a cushion. Once the keeper has closed down the attacker, they should slow and leave a cushion of a couple of arms' lengths between themselves and the attacker. Slowing down at this point will make the goalkeeper better able to react to a quick shot, and the cushion prevents the goalkeeper from being easily dribbled. Keepers who get too close too soon will often "pull out" of a save, standing up out of their low ready position and allowing the attacker an easier shot. 4. Stay up as long as possible. Once the goalkeeper is on the ground, they're committed, so they should stay up on their feet until the save is as sure as can be. This is especially true of a slowly moving attacker who can easily dribble around a fallen keeper. 5. Once committed, come hard and don't stop. A keeper who second-guesses themself gives the attacker the advantage. It's all or nothing in this situation!

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Fig. 1

* The Sliding Save Fig. 1: Low Ready Position To start, approach the attacker in a slightly modified, lower ready position with the hands close to the ground (Fig. 1). The keeper needs to be close to the ready position because a shot could come at any moment, but modified because at close range the keeper is vulnerable to the quick, close shot right along the ground.

When the moment is right, start the slide. The goalkeeper should slide with their feet towards the center of the goal, with their body square to the attacker, and centered so the ball is around their lower chest or midsection. An attacker will be more likely (less afraid) to try to cut the ball to the hands/head side of the goalkeeper, so by sliding with the feet to the center of the goal an attacker who goes this way will go wide. Staying square provides the longest barrier possible; centering the ball provides equal barrier on either side. Do not allow the goalkeeper to slide feet first! Not only does this provide very little barrier to the attacker, but it exposes the whole lower part of the keeper's body to the attacker.

Fig. 2

Fig. 2: Modified "Cobra" Catching PositionFinally, smother the ball with the hands. In fact, throughout the slide the intent of the keeper should be to get their hands on the ball before the attacker can touch it again. Having the "hands first!" attitude will also help

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keep the slide from going feet first. If necessary, the keeper can use a modified catch involving the forearms to act as a shock absorber. The ball is caught with a bent wrist, between the palm and the forearm. The hands are hooked over the ball, in a sort of "cobra" position (Fig. 2). This position provides maximum protection, especially if the attacker is about to strike the ball.

After the save is made, the soccer ball should be securely held in front of the goalkeeper. The keeper should not roll over on or curl up around the ball, since this puts body parts between the ball and the attacker who is swinging at it! The ball is the keeper's shield in this case. Under Law 12, Decisions of the International FA Board, it states "The goalkeeper is considered to be in control of the ball by touching it with any part of his hand or arms." The referee should be reminded of this if they allow an attacker to kick at the ball after the goalkeeper has their hands on it.

Finally, never give up on the ball, especially on a breakaway! Even if the goalkeeper does not smother the soccer ball completely on the slide, they will often deflect it, or at least push the attacker wide. If they can recover quickly, they may have given themselves enough time to make a second save. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Breakaways:

(+)Good starting position(+)Time the shooter(+)Match the shooter's pace(+)Stay up as long as possible(+)Approach in a low ready position(+)Stay square with the slide(+)Center the soccer ball at the midsection(+)Hands to the ball first!

Mistakes to Watch For:

(-)Approaching attacker with wrong pace(-)Not getting low enough on approach(-)Sliding feet first(-)Catching the ball at head level(-)Turning over on the ball after the save(-)Not recovering after a deflection or after the attacker gets by

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Distribution

The goalkeeper is the last line of defense, but also the first line of attack. I am not advocating attempting to dribble the entire field starting from your own goal like Amadeo Carrizo, but a quick restart to the attack can be very effective. After a save is made, the keeper must quickly look to break out and start the counter. This is especially true after the Laws change of July 1, 2000 eliminating the four-step limitation and requiring the goalkeeper to put the ball back in play after 5-6 seconds.

Distribution can be done two ways: throws or kicks. Both have advantages for certain situations.

Kicks

A goalkeeper may simply drop the ball to the ground and take the kick normally, especially if they have a big foot. When more distance is required, to break pressure or for younger players, a punt or drop kick is used.

* Punts A punt is usually the kick with the greatest distance, although the high trajectory and hang time usually mean 50-50 balls at the receiving end. Start with the ball in both hands. It may be more comfortable to end up dropping the ball with one hand rather than two. If so, the hand on the same side as the kicking foot should be used (you'll see this in the video clip). But starting with both hands will allow for more consistency in the drop. Take a short run up (about 2-3 steps) at a slight angle to the kicking direction; this gets the hip more involved and generates more power. The plant foot should point towards the target. Drop the ball - don't toss it upwards! - and kick, following through to land on the kicking foot. The kicking foot should be straight, directly on line with the target, and should not swing around the body.

* Drop Kicks A drop kick, where the ball hits the ground before being contacted by the foot, gives a lower trajectory ball. This makes it better for driving into the wind and makes it easier for teammates to receive. It does not have quite the distance of a punt, however. The technique is very much the same as a punt, except the kick is timed so the foot strikes the ball just after it bounces on the ground. The drop kick has a distinctive "ba-DUM" sound you can listen for: the "ba" is the ball hitting the ground; the "DUM" is the foot striking the ball a fraction of a second later.

Timing is everything for both punts and drop kicks. Just like free-throw shooting in basketball, kicking distribution must be practiced over and over until the timing becomes automatic. Don't be discouraged when kicks are very inconsistent at first - time and lots of practice will improve things.

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Goal Kicks Goalkeepers ought to take their own goal kicks if possible. This allows the defense to push out and keep attackers from lurking about near the penalty area and ensures that defenders are marked up and organized in case of a quick change of possession.

As with punts and drop kicks, technique is the key. Power is usually less of an issue than the ability to get some loft on the ball to increase the distance. Keys to getting a good goal kick are:

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3

Fig. 1: Long strideApproach the ball from a slight angle. This will allow the hip flexor to get involved more and generate more leg speed. Make sure the follow through is straight at the target, though. * The ankle of the plant foot should be just behind the ball and the body should be leaning back. This differs from shooting technique! If the plant foot is too close to the ball, it will be difficult to get any height on the kick. * The final step into the kick should be a long, smooth stride (Fig. 1). This also helps generate leg speed. A short, choppy run-up won't allow a proper leg swing. *Fig. 2: Foot angleThe toe needs to be pointed slightly outwards (ankle locked!) in order to get the foot under the ball (Fig. 2). This is probably the most crucial point. Although a goal kick is an instep drive, you want to use the inside of the shoelaces, not the top. The foot should be angled outward so the contact point is on the lower half of the ball, just above the first joint of the big toe on the inside of the instep (Fig. 3). An analogy I like to use is that of a golf wedge versus a driver. The foot should be more like a wedge in order to get under the ball and give the it proper trajectory and distance. *Fig. 3: Ball contactIf the kicks are long but tend to curl and affect accuracy, watch the point where the foot strikes the ball. With an angled approach and long swing, the natural tendency will be to hit an "inswinging" ball; to counteract this, the strike point should be just to the "inside" of the ball (just to the left of center on the ball for a right footed kicker, vice versa for lefties).

If a keeper is struggling to get the ball off the ground, it can be helpful to try working off a "tee" at first: a tall tuft of grass, flat cone, etc. This will allow more space to get under the ball. Once that is working well, lower the ball. You shouldn't need a specialized

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keeper coach to help with goal kicks; any good soccer coach should be able to help you tune up your place kick.

A final word on kicks: let your good technique do the work for you! A keeper who tries too hard to "explode" the ball will likely mis-hit the ball and suffer inconsistency. Relax, and let the mechanics of the kick work for you.

ThrowsThrows are usually much shorter than kicks, but much more accurate. A quick throw right to the feet of an open teammate is often the safest distribution. The goalkeeper has several basic throws available. I've listed them here in order of decreasing accuracy and increasing distance.

For the javelin, sidearm and overhand throw, the trajectory of the soccer ball should be mostly level or even downwards, not high and looping. We want the ball to hit the ground in front of the receiver, to give it time to settle on the grass and make for an easy trap. A rule of thumb is to have the ball initially hit the ground about two-thirds of the way to the receiver.

Fig. 4 Fig. 5

Fig. 4: The Roll Roll The roll (Fig. 4) is the most accurate but shortest distribution. It is also typically the easiest for teammates to receive. Control the ball between the palm of the hand and the forearm with a bent wrist, step with the opposite foot, and "bowl" the ball, making sure the fingertips touch the ground on the delivery. This will require bending the knees and waist to get low enough. Just like in real bowling, you don't want to drop the ball from the hand to the ground. The transition should be smooth. *Fig. 5: Javelin Throw Javelin or Baseball Throw In the middle of the accuracy and distance scale is the javelin or baseball throw (Fig. 5). The form is similar to how a javelin is thrown. The ball starts in the palm beside the head and is thrown straight forward as the keeper steps into the throw. Some backspin on the ball will help it "sit down" and make it easier to receive, so the keeper can let the ball roll of their fingertips slightly at the end of the release to provide this. Make sure the fingers are slightly over the top of the ball to keep it on a level or downward trajectory.

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Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Fig. 6: Sidearm Throw Sidearm Throw The sidearm throw (Fig. 6) lies between the javelin and overhand throw in both distance and accuracy, and also in its delivery. The arm is extended back slightly behind the body at a "three-quarters" angle, not straight to the side but just below shoulder level. The ball is delivered with a bit of a slinging, sweeping motion. Because the arm position is sideways, the best way to put backspin on this throw is by passing the palm of the hand under the ball upon release, letting the ball roll off the middle and index finger and the thumb. Again, keep the fingers over the top of the ball so it stays low. *Fig. 7: Overhand Throw Overhand Throw The overhand throw or "sling" is the longest but least accurate throw (Fig. 7). It can be a good technique for very young players, since sometimes they can actually throw it as far as they can punt. The soccer ball is again controlled between the palm and forearm with a bent wrist. The arm is placed almost straight back, and as the keeper steps into the throw, the arm is fully extended, elbow locked, and brought around in a circle, over the head, and released towards the target. The hand should end pointing at the target, and letting the fingertips roll under the ball at the finish can provide some backspin to help the ball roll smoothly.

This is technically the most difficult throw. The hand must stay on top of the ball throughout the 180 degrees or so of arc; centrifugal force keeps the ball in place, much like water stays in a bucket when it's whirled around on a rope. The elbow must remain locked until the release, and the release point is critical. Often times the elbow will bend as the ball comes over the head, destroying the flow of the throw. Make sure the elbow stays locked, the ball comes high over the head, and then is released. ------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick Summary - Kick Distribution:(+)Hold ball with both hands(+)Step into kick at slight angle(+)Plant foot should point towards target(+)Drop the ball(+)Kick straight at target and follow through(+)Goal kicks: Approach at a slight angle(+)Goal kicks: Plant foot behind ball(+)Goal kicks: Foot angled outward to get under the ball

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Mistakes to Watch For: (-)Run-up uneven/too long/too short(-)Tossing the ball in the air(-)Plant foot pointing wrong direction(-)Kicking foot swinging around body instead of straight(-)Poor follow-through(-)Goal kicks: Approach/foot angle too straight-on(-)Goal kicks: Plant foot too close to ball

Quick Summary - Throw Distribution:(+)Roll - most accuracy, least distance(+)Javelin throw - medium accuracy and distance(+)Javelin throw starts from beside head(+)Sidearm throw - medium accuracy and distance(+)Overhand throw - least accurate, most distance(+)Overhand throw must keep hand on top, elbow locked(+)Roll fingers under ball at end to provide backspin for javelin and overhand throws(+)Throws should have low trajectory and hit the ground a bit before they reach the receiver

Mistakes to watch for:(-)Ball drops from hand to ground on roll(-)Step with same side foot on roll(-)High, arcing throws that are difficult to receive(-)Javelin throw does not start behind head(-)Ball not secure between palm and forearm on overhand throw(-)On overhand throw, elbow not locked or bends halfway though throw(-)Overhand throw not given full 180-degree rotation (-)Poor release point on overhand throw

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Goalkeeper Tactics

Tactics is decision-making. A goalkeeper's decisions must be made quickly, on the fly, taking rapidly changing conditions into account. A goalkeeper's decisions are also final, since there is usually no one behind them to back them up if they make a mistake. This section will cover a few key areas of goalkeeping decision-making.

Never Give Up!

Perhaps this should go under Psychology, but a goalkeeper should always remember to never give up on a shot. This is especially true on deflections or breakaways - the goalkeeper who is ready to spring to their feet and try again just might get a chance to make another save. Remember that the shooter is just as likely to flub as the goalkeeper, and the goalkeeper should always be ready to take advantage of the opponent's mistakes.

Don't Act, React

Strangely, the first decision a keeper should make when facing a shot is to not make a decision at all! Instead, the keeper should react to a situation as it develops, rather than acting right away. They should stay patient until the right moment comes. Some rules of thumb for keepers:

* Force the shooter to decide. Put the pressure on the attacker - make them decide what they should do. If the keeper is already in good position and prepared, they shouldn't need to act too soon. * Be ready to pounce on a mistake. As soon as an attacker makes a mistake - a poor touch or pass, a weak shot - that's the goalkeeper's moment to charge in. Look for that opportunity. * Be ready to react the moment the ball is shot. It is easy to time the shooter and see exactly when the shot will come. Just before the shot is taken the keeper should get into the ready position, able to spring whatever way the shot goes. * Don't Guess! Guessing what an attacker will do should be reserved for penalty kicks, and even then it is not sheer guesswork. Chances are a guess will be wrong, and once the keeper has gone the wrong way it may be impossible to recover.

Coming Off the Line

Inexperienced keepers struggle with trying to decide when to come off their line. This is certainly a difficult decision to make, since it depends on both the situation on the field - attacker's speed and ability, positions of other players on both offense and defense - and the keeper's ability and confidence.

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Fig. 1: Keeper's position in penalty area should match ball's position on the field The decision will be made a little easier if the keeper starts from a good position. In general, the position of the keeper in the penalty area should match the position of the ball on the soccer field. If the ball is in the attacking third, the keeper should be in the front third of the penalty area; ball at midfield, keeper about 6-12 yards out, ball in the defensive end, keeper close to their line. If the keeper is young and small, or the opposing team like to shoot long, high looping shots, adjust the position back towards the goals a few yards.

Position from the middle to the top of the penalty area helps the goalkeeper get to long through balls more quickly (even intercepting and clearing them outside the area if necessary), and also puts the keeper in the play for use as an outlet for a defender under pressure. Even when they are back, the keeper should stay a minimum of 1-2 yards off the goal line to maintain some angle. A goalkeeper who stays rooted on the line not only concedes the better part of the penalty area to the attacking team, but gives them the most net to shoot at when they do get close (see basic positioning).

A very common question I get asked is, "When should I come out?" I think this is the wrong question. It should be, "How should I come out?" I think that the exact timing is much less critical than coming out hard and decisively and not second-guessing. This is not just for breakaways, but applies to any attempt at the ball (handling crosses, long through balls, etc).

The goalkeeper should:

* Pick a moment when they have a clear shot at the ball, and then * Come hard for the ball without hesitating or stopping. * Slow down just as they reach the ball carrier, leaving a couple of arms' lengths of space as a cushion. The second item here is key. Many a goal has been scored because the keeper was indecisive and got caught in "no-man's land", neither attacking the ball or being in good

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shot-stopping position. Once the keeper decides they're gong for the ball, they must go through with it; they must at least make some contact with the ball. Once the keeper gets near the ball, they must slow down and leave some space to prevent being dribbled by the attacker.

Never start a run by backing up. They should check the posts, look around at the situation, wait for the right moment, but the keeper should do all of this while on their toes and ready to move forward. (Any backpedalling should have been done previously, well before the keeper's charge. See the Breakaway section for more details.

Young and inexperienced goalkeepers may lack the confidence to come hard on a breakaway or out for a high cross. Build confidence by first teaching them proper techniques, and slowly building into game situations - no pressure, then light pressure, then heavy traffic. A keeper who is confident in their footwork, catching ability, and other techniques will have less to worry about when the time comes to be aggressive.

When to Dive

Younger and inexperienced goalkeepers often wonder when they should dive. The answer is, "almost never". A good goalkeeper minimizes the need to dive by being in good position, aggressively sweeping up loose balls, and challenging shooters. A dive should only be used as a last resort, and always after the shot has been taken. The keeper should stay on their feet as long as possible - once they've dived, they're committed and can't change their mind if the shooter does something else.

A dive is the ultimate and desperate reaction to a shot, it should only be used in ultimate and desperate situations.

Communicating With Defenders

Communication is a key for every player on the soccer field, and especially so for the goalkeeper. Once the keeper has made a decision, the defenders need to know what it is. The goalkeeper also must be a organizer and general on the field - they are the only player who faces the field the whole time and are the best positioned to see the development of the play.

The keeper should know at least these two basic calls:

* "Keeper!": this means the goalkeeper is making a play on the ball, defenders should get out of the way. * "Away!": this means the opposite - the keeper is not going after the ball and the defense should pursue it. It is usually used for crosses or corners.

The keeper must yell these commands loudly and repeat them if necessary. There must be no doubt in anyone's mind who's ball it is! This even includes the opposing team - forwards will sometimes back off if they think the keeper is coming hard.

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The keeper should also direct traffic and position defenders on the field. Don't expect a lot of this to occur with young keepers, especially those who don't play in goal full time, but with experience a 14 or 15 year old full-time goalkeeper should be able to scan the field and the set the defense as necessary. To do this, the keeper must be a student of the game - they must know:

* The defensive scheme used by the team and how the coach wants the defenders to play * Tendencies and strengths of the opposing team and opposing players * The role of first defender, second defender, third defender to make adjustments on the fly * The role of first, second and third attackers to help anticipate how the attack may develop

In short, they must be a second coach out on the soccer field. This is a tall order for a youth soccer player, but here are a few points that will help develop this.

* Be loud and repetitive. It can be hard to hear out on the field, especially for someone on the ball with their head down. Make sure the message gets through. * Be specific with commands. Yelling "Mark up!" or "Who's on #10?" often isn't enough - tell specific players what to do ("John, mark #10" or "Ashley, Kristy, shift one mark to the right"). * Work from the ball outwards. The keeper should focus on the ball carrier first, and arrange defenders near the ball first. When danger is less imminent, set the defenders who are further away. * Arrange to get feedback from defenders. It can be eye contact, a wave of the hand, a verbal okay, but have defenders let the goalkeeper know they were heard. The goalkeeper will be able to shift focus knowing the defender is set, and the defender won't have the keeper yelling at them for something they already heard. * If they keeper does not call, the defenders must take responsibility. The defense should never assume the keeper has a ball unless the keeper calls for it; they should go for the ball unless they hear otherwise. A few collisions with their own defense in practice should quickly teach a quiet keeper the value of calling loudly for the ball!

Communication between the goalkeeper and defenders is a key to making the defense function as a unit.

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Advanced Tactics

Here are some key points for several important tactics a soccer goalkeeper must know.

Setting a Wall Fig. 1: Setting a WallIf the opponent is given a free kick within 10-20 yards of the penalty area (or an indirect kick inside the penalty area), the standard defense is to make a "wall" of two or more players the minimum 10 yards from the spot of the kick. This wall serves to block part of the goal from the shooter so that the goalkeeper only has to worry about guarding a small portion of the goal mouth. However, if the wall is not properly positioned, it my actually do more harm than good!

The wall must be set up quickly, following these basic guidelines:

* One defender must identify themselves as the outside "anchor" of the wall. Make sure everyone knows who this is; they should raise their hand and make eye contact with the keeper. Some teams may wish to identify this player ahead of time, even in practice sessions. * The goalkeeper must choose how many players will be in the wall. The more extreme the angle, the fewer players. Two players is sufficient for a ball close to the end line; the keeper might want as many as five or even six in the wall for a straight on shot. The exact number will depend on the situation and how much goal the keeper feels confident covering. * The goalkeeper sets the "anchor" just outside a line between the soccer ball and the near post (Fig. 1). This covers the near part of the goal with a little overlap to prevent balls from bending around the wall. The keeper will usually dash over to the near post to sight from the post to the ball to make sure things are positioned properly. While doing this the keeper is way out of position, so speed is essential! Some teams prefer to free the keeper of this duty by using a forward, who lines up the wall by sighting from behind the ball back towards the goalpost. * The other players line up against the "anchor" player to the inside of the goal. Players need to be right against one another so no ball can slip through the wall.

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Once the wall is set, the goalkeeper moves to cover the space between the inside of the wall and the far post.

On rare occasions, the attacking team will win an indirect free kick in the penalty area that is less than 10 yards from the goal. (More on this in the Laws page.) What to do then? Defenders are allowed to be closer than ten yards to the ball, provided they are on the goal line and between the goalposts. The wall, then, will actually be set in the goal. The tallest players available should be on the goal line, to prevent a chip shot under the crossbar. Since this can only happen on an indirect kick, one defender should be designated as the "bullet man" to rush the ball as soon as it is touched and disrupt a subsequent shot.

Most teams almost never practice this situation; I have seen it occur only a handful of times in thousands of games I've seen. But a good goalkeeper is prepared for any situation, and if they're aware of this provision of the laws, they can organize things quickly if it should ever occur.

Handling Corners

Fig. 2: Corner Kick Setup

Key points for handling corner kicks: * Anything within the 6-yard box in the air should belong to the keeper! Older players should be able to extend their range even beyond this. Train your keepers in traffic so they will have the confidence to collect corners and crosses in their goal box. * Start position will vary, but I prefer a spot about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to the far post (Fig. 2). This is because it is easier to move forward quickly than backwards. The area the keeper should easily be able to cover is shaded in gray. * Always position a defender on the near post, shoulder right up against it and facing the corner. This player is there to clear away hard driven shots to the near post that the keeper can't get to. * For balls hit over the head past the far post, track the ball, leave it late and either punch it wide or be ready for a shot or deflection from the far side (the yellow shaded area in Figure 2). Some goalkeepers or coaches like to station a player at the far post to

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handle these, similar in duties to the near-post defender. I prefer to have this defender marking rather than standing at the far post.

Handling Back PassesThe goalkeeper must sometimes make themselves available as an outlet for a defender under pressure. However, if done incorrectly, a backpass to the goalkeeper can result in tragedy - an uncontested givaway in front of the net or even an own goal. Here are key points for back passes to the keeper.

* The goalkeeper must ask for the ball. Don't ever back pass to keeper who isn't expecting it! * The keeper who is making themselves available must move away from the goal and outside the near post. This puts them in the least vulnerable position should the pass go awry. * The passer must pass with good pace and outside the near post. Many own goals have been scored by defenders who passed inside the post and missed connecting with their keeper. * Once the ball is received, the keeper must clear it quickly, preferrably with one or two touches. Switching fields is often a good option to get the ball away from pressure. This is a skill that must be practiced!

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Penalty Kicks

The penalty kick was introduced to soccer in 1891 to combat the growing use of illegal means to prevent goals, particularly by handling the ball. In 1905, the requirement was added that the keeper stay on the goal line until the ball was kicked. This denied the goalkeeper the liberty to advance up to six yards, which resulted in "too many" unsuccessful penalties. In 1929, a prohibition on the keeper's lateral movement was imposed, but was generally ignored. This Restriction was repealed in 1997, in recognition (or resignation?) of the fact that goalkeepers were moving along the line anyway. See the Laws page for more details on penalty kick rules.

As the Laws of the game of soccer currently stand, the goalkeeper must be on the goal line between the goalposts, and may not move forward until the ball is struck. All other players are outside the penalty area, at least ten yards from the ball and behind it. The shooter is identified, the keeper and other players take up their position, the referee signals, and the pressure is on!

For the goalkeeper, a penalty-kick really is a no-lose situation. The keeper is not expected to make the save, so the pressure is on the shooter (the conversion rate of penalty kicks, at all levels of soccer, is 80-90%). But there are tricks a goalkeeper can use to increase their odds of making the save.

The days of guess and dive are over. The goalkeeper should learn to "read" the shooter to try to predict where the ball is going. Combined, perhaps, with scouting reports on shooters, and statistics on general tendencies, a keeper can do much better than 50% in picking direction. Although picking the correct direction doesn't always mean the keeper can make the save, it gives them a head start.

Reading the Shooter

* Watch the shooter's eyes and overall demeanor. Often they will give away small clues before they are ever ready to shoot, like peeking at the corner they are aiming for. * Watch the approach. Is it straight on, or wide? A very wide approach often indicates the shooter is going towards the opposite corner. A straight-on approach gives fewer clues. * Watch the plant foot. The ball will go where the plant foot points. * Watch the hips. The ball goes where the hips point. A "push pass" shot will require the hips to open up in the direction the ball is going. * Watch the head. If the shooter drops their head low with a big pull-back of the leg, it usually means a cross-body shot. If the head stays up more, it can mean the shooter will stay open to push the ball to the opposite corner. * Don't react too soon. Use the cues above to predict where the ball might go, and be ready to go that way, but wait a split second to be sure it really is going there. The keeper might think one direction based on the shooter's eyes and approach, but the plant foot and hips may tell a different story just before the ball is struck.

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General TendenciesA study done of all the penalties taken in the 1998 World Cup (including shootouts) noted that almost 70% of the kicks taken went to the opposite side from the kicker's dominant foot (that is, right-footed kickers shot to their left -- keeper's right -- and vice versa). (See Goalkeeper Soccer Training Manual, DiCicco 2000.) This is the natural swing of the foot across the body; it is difficult to put the ball to the other corner with an instep kick. So, if all else fails, the keeper should go right for a right-footed kicker and left for a left footer.

Don't Act, ReactAlso, the goalkeeper should react quickly, but not too quickly. Many penalties, especially at the youth level, are poorly taken, either weakly hit or right down the middle. Often the goalkeeper can easily make the save if they just wait and simply react to the shot.

Even "reading the shooter" is a reaction to what the shooter does, and not just guesswork.

A veteran goalkeeper will use all of this, plus their gut feel from years of experience, to try to save a penalty. Brad Friedel says, "Generally there are loads of subtle little hints as to where a player will shoot that they give to the goalkeeper. How he runs up to the soccer ball, how he stands, if his weight's back, if his weight's forward, if he's looking at you the whole time, if he takes a long run as opposed to a short run. There are lots of little differences but you will never really get the gist of it unless you practice a lot of them and figure out what works best for you."

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Psychology

The position of goalkeeper is one of the most psychologically demanding on the soccer field. Mistakes are final. The glory is usually reserved for the players at the other end of the field. It's not a position for everybody. You can't be stupid and play goal, but perhaps you must be a little crazy.

A coach must, of necessity, be a part-time psychologist, and nowhere is this more important than for the goalkeeper, where confidence is key. I am not a sports psychologist, nor do I play one on TV, but here are a few ideas I have found a coach can use to help a goalkeeper's mental toughness and attitude.

* Only play those who want to play in goalIn youth soccer, everyone is encouraged to try all positions. However, I would not include goalkeeper in that category, at least in game situations. It does no good to put someone in the box who simply does not want to be there. It can be shattering for a youngster to be scored upon. If you must, try everyone in practices, but limit game play to those who want to be (or at least, don't mind being) in net. * Stay positive when goals are scoredIt can be tough to be positive, especially when a simple lapse has just let in the game-losing goal with seconds to play. Goalkeepers need to be able to put mistakes behind them quickly and recover, so try to put a positive spin on things: * Credit the shooter. Sometimes the opposing team has just made a great play; give them credit - it's not always a mistake by the keeper that lets a goal in. * Don't dwell on it. Help the goalkeeper shake it off quickly, make a fast coaching point if necessary, and move on once the kickoff has been taken. You can cover problems in more depth at the next practice. * Look for the technique that needs improvement. Focus on the skill that needs work, not the fact that the goal was allowed. Very often it's just basic footwork or catching that needs brushing up. * Give credit for other than direct savesA keeper can keep the soccer ball out of the net in more ways than making a direct save - forcing a missed shot gets the job done too. Aggressiveness goes a long way here - by making the shooter decide too early, a keeper can force a miss or a pass on an otherwise open shot. A goalkeeper who can get into the heads of opposing forwards early has a huge advantage. * Don't panic after a saveThis applies to both coach and goalkeeper. Give the keeper time to internalize the save (builds confidence), calm down, give field players time to recover, and look upfield to restart the attack. Six seconds is plenty of time to do all this. If you stay calm, you're showing that you have confidence in the keeper's ability to control the ball and the game. * Help the keeper develop good habitsTeach them good technique, then hammer it in with repetition. Don't allow any lazy or sloppy technique, even when they're not officially doing drills or playing. Good habits will show themselves in games just like bad habits. Repetition is the key; doing it right every time (consistency) is what separates a good goalkeeper from a great one.

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* Don't allow less than full effort, every time, every shotEvery shot deserves an attempt at a save, even if it seems futile. Eventually, the shots that seemed impossible to stop before will start coming into range. If the effort is there, the results will start to come. * If things aren't going well, pull the goalkeeper with careMany coaches will pull a keeper if they are getting shelled, but be aware of the repercussions of this. Some players will take this as a sign you lack confidence in them, and only go downhill. Make sure you stay positive, and point out you're not pulling them because they are a poor player or person, just that it's not their day. * Encourage additional trainingThere isn't always time to properly train a keeper in normal practice sessions, especially when that player needs to develop foot and field skills as well. Encourage them to attend club or private training sessions, goalkeeper camps, rent or buy books or videos, or visit this and other web sites. A player who is serious about goalkeeping needs all the extra training and practice they can get.

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Laws of the Game

It is very difficult to play a game if you don't know and understand the rules. A good goalkeeper -- or field player, or coach, for that matter -- needs to know the Laws of the Game of soccer in order to perform at their best. This section is not intended to be a complete primer on the Laws, but addresses specific areas that relate to goalkeeping. The black and white text of the Law book is supplemented by years of experience and tradition that impact how the game is called and how the players play.

Law 1 - The Field of PlayAlthough the soccer field and its markings are often taken for granted by the players unless there is something obviously wrong, it can be helpful for the goalkeeper to know the dimensions of the lines on the field. A keeper will use these lines more than anyone else on the field to determine their positioning. Before the game, scan the lines and make sure they are all square and at proper distances. In particular, the penalty spot is often not marked or mis-marked. If it is off, don't use it as a guide to get centered in goal.

Law 4 - The Players' EquipmentLaw 4 says "each goalkeeper wears colors which distinguish him from the other players, the referee and the assistant referees." This is the only requirement. Tradition allows the keeper to use equipment that is not specified for field players: gloves, long pants, or hats. The referee always has final say on what is allowable; if he deems something to be unsafe, it may not be worn.

Law 8 - The Start and Restart of PlayLaw 8 has a section called "Special Circumstances" that players, especially goalkeepers, should be aware of. It has to do with the placement of the ball on free kicks inside the goal area. Essentially, any free kick for the defense inside their own goal area is like a goal kick - it may be taken from anywhere in the goal area and must leave the penalty area before it is in play.

For indirect free kicks for attackers in their opponents' goal area, the kick is taken from the goal area line parallel to the goal line at the point nearest to where the foul occured. Thus, no free kick can be taken from closer than six yards to the goal. More on this special circumstance below the section on free kicks.

Law 9 - The Ball In and Out of PlayAlthough he is (usually!) a bit more mobile than the goalposts, the referee is considered to be part of the soccer field when it comes to play. A ball rebounding off the referee (or off an assistant referee, if for some reason they are on the field of play) is still in play.

Law 10 - The Method of ScoringSimple as it seems, I have come across players who did not know that the entire ball must be past the goal line for the goal to count. The outside of the chalked line is the true boundary; the whole of the ball must pass over this boundary. The back of the goalposts should be set even with the outside of the goal line, so that the goal frames are actually

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considered on the field of play, and the ball must completely clear the posts and crossbar to be a goal.

Law 12 - Fouls and MisconductCalls involving fouls and misconduct are the most argued about and disputed in any game of soccer. All players need to remember that all fouls and misconduct are strictly in the opinion of the referee. If the referee has made a decision, it seldom does any good to argue about it. Better to let it go and concentrate on the task at hand (setting the defensive wall, preparing for the penalty kick, etc.).

Direct Free KicksThe goalkeeper is subject to the same Laws regarding kicking, tripping, holding, pushing, tackling, etc. as all other players on the field. Although the Laws don't give the keeper any special privileges, most referees realize that keepers often put themselves at considerable peril in the thick of play and give them some leeway. However, don't use that as license to commit mayhem in the penalty area.

An example of this is the goalkeeper using the knee when going for high balls. As stated in the section on catching high balls, the knee is used to generate height and provide some protection, not as a weapon. A referee who feels the keeper's knee is being used dangerously can call the keeper for jumping or charging... and the result would be a penalty kick, if not a yellow or red card in addition.

Indirect Free KicksThere are four offenses in Law 12 specifically aimed at the goalkeeper. An indirect free kick is awarded to the opposing team if the keeper, in the penalty area, commits one of the following:

* Takes more than six seconds, after controlling the ball with the hands, to release the ball into play.

Six seconds is not hard and fast; referees are instructed not to count or signal publicly, and first offenses are usually given verbal warnings. But six seconds is plenty of time to settle the ball, jog up to the edge of the penalty area and find an outlet. During this six seconds, the goalkeeper can move anywhere in their penalty area. Don't get caught by this Law - instead, use it as a reason to work on quick distribution to start the counterattack.

* Touches the ball again with the hands after releasing it into play, before the ball has been touched by another player.

Bouncing or softly tossing and catching the ball are not considered "releasing the ball into play", but why even risk it? Bouncing the soccer ball is a holdover from olden days where a goalkeeper was able to move in the penalty area if they bounced the ball (similar to a basketball dribble). That rule no longer applies, so once the keeper has the ball safely in their hands, they should hang on to it until they are ready to deliver it downfield.

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* Touches the ball with the hands "after it has been deliberately kicked to him by a team-mate".

The italicized above is a direct quote from the FIFA Laws, and is often misunderstood. Remember the intent of the Law, which is to prevent time wasting by the defense. As such, only a deliberate kick by a teammate, either to the goalkeeper or to a place where the goalkeeper can safely pick the ball up, should be penalized. An accidental deflection off a defender's foot, or a missed clearance that falls to the goalkeeper should not be penalized.

But as always, "deliberate" is in the opinion of the referee. So if in doubt, don't pick the ball up - unless the ball is at risk of going into the net if you don't use your hands! In that case, better to concede an indirect free kick than a goal.

* Touches the ball with the hands directly from a throw-in from a teammate.

The goalkeeper may still be used as a target for a throw-in, but they must handle the ball with their feet like any other player.

An indirect free kick can also be given to the goalkeeper's team if an opponent prevents the ball from being released into play by the keeper. This is seldom called, but it's good to know the keeper gets a little protection in the Laws!

Finally, it is an indirect kick if an opponent plays in a dangerous manner. This applies not only to endangering an opponent (e.g. high boot) but also to endangering one's self (this is why the player on the ground is called for this - they have put themselves in harm's way). By tradition, the goalkeeper is given leeway here and is allowed to put themselves in positions that would be dangerous for any other player on the field (for example, sliding at the feet of an attacker).

Law 13 - Free KicksDirect and indirect kicks differ in one respect: a direct kick that goes into the net without being touched is counted as a goal; an indirect kick must be touched by another player (on either team) in order to count. Indirect kicks are signalled by the referee raising one arm straight up above his head. Look for this signal; if it is not given, assume a direct kick. If in doubt, ask the referee -- most will also inform you verbally.

Occasionally an attacker will not realize a kick is indirect and shoot straight at the net. In this case, if it is a difficult save, the keeper should just let the ball go in rather than risk deflecting the ball in themselves and providing the touch that let the goal stand. But be absolutely sure it is indirect and nobody but the shooter touched the ball. If in doubt, try to make the save. (By the way, an indirect kick that goes into the net without being touched is awarded a goal kick.)

Any free kick from within the penalty area must leave the penalty area before it is considered in play.

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Everybody knows that the defenders must be 10 yards from the spot of a free kick, but what about an indirect free kick that is less than 10 yards from the goal (subject to those "special circumstances" in Law 8)? In this case, defenders are permitted to be closer than 10 yards provided they are on the goal line and between the goal posts. This kind of situation doesn't happen much, but it can come up and it would be wise if the keeper knows how to set the defense if this happens - see Setting a Wall under "Advanced Tactics" for more on this.

Law 14 - Penalty KicksThe only time during a game a goalkeeper should be standing on the goal line is during a penalty kick, and that is only because the Law says so. Goalkeepers are allowed to move side-to-side along the goal line, but not to move forward until the ball is struck.

Why is this Law disregarded so often? Moving forward offers the goalkeeper a host of advantages, from a better catching position to narrowing the size of the net the shooter sees. Why isn't it called more often? Tradition, mostly. This is one of the most inconsistently called Laws in the book, especially for one that isn't even a matter of opinion. Until FIFA decides referees are going to enforce this one to the letter, or the rule is rewritten, we will have to live with the inconsistency. For more on penalty kicks, see the Penalty Kick page.

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