ginja food & lifestyle magazine jun jul '14
DESCRIPTION
GINJA Food & Lifestyle Magazine Issue '13 - Purchase your digital or print subscription from http://www.ginjafood.com/shop/ or emailTRANSCRIPT
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wine about winter with chef jacqui brown van staden brothers brazil yourself
june/july 2014south africar30.00 (incl.VAT) other countriesr26.32 (excl. VAT)www.ginjafood.com
9772307224007
14011
birthday edition
+ greAT giVeAwAys fromrobertsonVALLey of wiNe AND roses
sugar & spice baking delights
FO R
EVERY
SALE O F
THIS I
SSUE R5
WILL
BE D O
NATED T
O TH E
SU NFLO
WER FU
N D.
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Jamie oliver recycled
glass Carafe * Jamie
oliver recycled glass sets
* Jamie olivier Terracotta
Pitchers * Jamie olivier
Terracotta oil Bottles *
Jamie oliver Terracotta
oven Dishes * Jamie olivier
Terracotta Bowls * Jamie
oliver Vintage Cutlery sets
* Jamie oliver Pestle and
mortar sets* Jamie oliver
rib runners & Placemats*
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Every home should have a good set of cookware, serveware,
tableware and utensils. All of the products in these ranges
are the kind of thing I use in my own home. Whether youre
after everyday gear or something a bit special, were sure to
have the products for you. jamie oliver
available at boardmans, all leading homeware stores and www.ginjashop.com Contact Berzacks on 011-3347634 or [email protected]
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2 GINJA
46
78
94
F o o d18 great cooking, figured out gerard van staden at the fig Tree
26 savannah to seaNico Verster's fine cuisine under an African Sky
32 hilary billerShares 3 of her favourite winter recipes 40 fennel, the whole bang-shoot Learn to cook with this medicinal plant
46 nil stemmet A story of food and heritage
58 you say, i say in conversation with David van staden
64 chefs Pick Myoga Chef's share a culture fusion recipe
66 good food & wine showA sensory journey coming to JHB
68 castle larger east caPe biltong festival Celebrating a south African favourite
72 food allergies, the notorious big 8 A brief look at the top 8 foods causing allergies
d r i n k s78 wine about winter, Chef JaCqui BrownPairing Alto's finest with a range of winter dishes
88 van rynswhere luxury and brandy meet
90 graham beck world class excellence in wine
ISSUEi n T H i s
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4 GINJA
33
T r av e l94 brazil yourselfCelebrating Brazil and the World Cup 2014 104 robertson; valley of wine and roses Exploring the beauty within the valley 112 windfall wine estateAward winning wines from the valley
j u n i o r 116 sugar and sPice Chef Jacqui Brown's kids create some sugary delights in celebration of Ginja's 1st birthday
r e g u l a r s6 editors note 8 haPPy birthday ginjaBirthday wishes from across the globe 10 dear editorReaders share their Ginja experiences 12 meet the teammeet the faces behind ginja 124 ginja cheat sheet Start collecting easy, quick reference sheets for the kitchen
126 over the coals Chef Jacqui Brown shares her experience of local hospitality and restaurant services
129 whats hot & haPPeningLocal upcoming events to add to your calendar
136 dine out guide137 directory139 reciPe index
ISSUEi n T H i s
72win: luxurios brandy, award
winning wine and indulgent
chocolate hamPers, a sensational
getaway, south african cookbooks
and a Paella essential.
104
88
WHAT YOU EAT.
EVERY DAY YOUHAVE THREECHANCESTO CARE ABOUT
SO WHY SETTLEFOR AVERAGE,SECOND BEST ORJUST PLAIN BLAND?
MOUTHWATERINGFLAVOUR & AROMA, TRANSFORMING THE ORDINARY
OPPORTUNITIES
INTO SOMETHING
OVER TO YOU
WWW.NOMUSHOP.CO.ZA
THAT IS TRULYDELICIOUS!
A YEAR TO ADD
THATS 1095
www.facebook.com/ginjaFood
www.twitter.com/ginjaFood
www.pinterest.com/ginjaFood
scan me! see wHATs haPPening online!
editor JACqui [email protected]
content managerBIANCA [email protected]
sub-editorHeATHer [email protected]
salesNiCKy [email protected]+27 (0)82 927 5408
marketingmAggi VAN [email protected]+27 (0)11 234 4816
head designer KATe [email protected]
senior designer rose [email protected]
designer JACo [email protected]
PhotograPher & designerBJrN [email protected]
contact us+27 (0)31 563 0054 P O Box 20111Durban North, 4016
www.ginjafood.com
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5GINJA
WHAT YOU EAT.
EVERY DAY YOUHAVE THREECHANCESTO CARE ABOUT
SO WHY SETTLEFOR AVERAGE,SECOND BEST ORJUST PLAIN BLAND?
MOUTHWATERINGFLAVOUR & AROMA, TRANSFORMING THE ORDINARY
OPPORTUNITIES
INTO SOMETHING
OVER TO YOU
WWW.NOMUSHOP.CO.ZA
THAT IS TRULYDELICIOUS!
A YEAR TO ADD
THATS 1095
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6 GINJA
"Let us celebrate the occasion with wine and
sweet words." - Plautus This month Ginja celebrates its very first birthday, and we all know what that means, party, presents and plenty of surprises! Not only has this year flown by, but it has been an extreme growth period for us. We enter our birthday month with an amazing bang and introduction to our new online store.
Did you know, (apart from the fact I sound like a chappie wrapper), that Ginja is the only independently owned food magazine in South Africa, and it is owned and run by chefs and
foodies to keep you salivating and if not, have you practicing in your kitchen. Now whilst this sounds all glitz and glam, none of this would be possible without you, our faithful readers, subscribers, contributors, advertisers
and competitors.This past year we managed to support at least one Ngo each month, including breast
cancer awareness, The Sunflower Fund, Jess Ford Foundation, Foodbank South Africa, Street Smart and one very personal NGO to our heart, rare Diseases society of south Africa.
Thank you for making this support to these organisations possible.A special thanks to Gordon Ramsay, Eric Lanlard, Jenny morris, David & gerard Van
Staden, Benny Masakwameng, Ruben Riffel, Dean Uren and Luke Dale Roberts to name but a few for giving us the inspiration and gootspa to produce Ginja. The gratitude i feel towards each and every
person who comes into contact with Ginja Magazine in whichever way is truly humbling. Thank you for giving me and my team the opportunity to entertain, entice, educate and humor you on our culinary journey. Thank you for a year only dreams are made of and for an
even more exciting year ahead.
every year on your birthday, you get a chance
to start new, let this year ahead be our new.
yours in food
n o T e sEDITORS
on THe CoverJUNE/JULY ISSUE N13
sugar and sPicefor the first anniversary of the
Ginja Food Magazine, Chef
Jacqui Brown's kids create
some charming celebratory
treats. It's the simple things in life
that are the most extraordinary.
PhotograPhy by: bjrn mhr
F i n d i T o n
P g 1 1 6
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JUNE/JULY ISSUE N13
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8 GINJA
H a P P YBIRTHDAY
GINJA TURNS ONE!
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3 e a s Y WaY s T o s u B s C r i B e
A years worth of magazines for just R324 - saving 10%
on the cover price Many monthly prizes to
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10755_MCL_McLaren 650S In Ginja_220x220_PrintP.indd 1
2014/04/08 2:42 PM
12 GIN
JA TH
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AG
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BA
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WIN
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UTES M
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ON THE COVER SABABA ISTANBUL WINTER FOOD ROUTES SMITTEN
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WIN ! A LUXURY GETAWAY WITH MAISON DE L'AMOUR
TO SUBScRIBEg r e aT r e a s o n s
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10 GINJA
d e a rEDITORLeTTers from our reADers
I moved from my parents house nearly 14 years
ago, and since I moved into my own place,
I decided not to live on takeaways. The only
option to learn how to cook is to eat your own
"flops". So I started to try out recipes and now I
just love cooking, experimenting and spending
time in the kitchen. I heard about the Ginja
Food Magazine from my colleagues, we are
social media junkies :) I started following the
Ginja FB page. I'm an assistant chef for the
Singing Chef concept, cooking with one of our
country's Artists. We go to private homes and
cook up a storm for 12 or so people, a 3 course
meal of course. So I tried out the Scalloped
Potato Stacks, tested it with a different
Chicken Cordon Bleu. My parents enjoyed a
wonderful Sunday afternoon lunch :) Love the
magazine... lots of inspiration. Looking forward
to the new edition.
ELIZMA BRINK
W r i T e T o u [email protected]
or
PO Box 20111
Durban North, 4016
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11GINJA
share your stories with giNJA and the winning letter will win a delicious beyers chocolate hamPer valued at r350!
d e a rLeTTers from our reADers
Hello GINJA!
I am LOVING your magazine. As a new
foodie and somebody who is attempting to
up the ante in the kitchen, your magazine is
a Godsend! The recipes that you provide are
delicious and the layout superb.
My flatmate and I make a concerted effort
to try something new each week and GINJA
is our principal go-to every time.
sitting down to an exciting new dish with
a big glass of wine is exactly how i want to
end my day.
Also, crme brulee in an enamel cup? Im in
love! I really am. Fun alternative to ramekins.
Thank you for a new, bright, and inspiring
magazine. Pretty sure Ill be on Master Chef
in no time! Im so looking forward to what you
have in store for us next month.
Lindsay Kirkby
Laura shares her favourite Milk Tart recipe.
base : 113g margarine, 2 Tbsp sugar, 2 Tbsp oil, 1
egg, 2 cups flour, 1 tsp baking powder Cream
marg and sugar then add oil. Add beaten egg
then flour and baking powder. Press into 2 pie
plates, prick the base and bake at 180 C for
10-12 mins.
Freeze one base and fill the other with the milk
tart mixture.
tart mixture : 2 cups milk, 1 egg, cup sugar,
pinch of salt, 2 heaped Tbsp cornflour, 1 dessert
spoon marg, vanilla essence. Microwave milk
on high for 5-6 mins. Meanwhile beat egg
and add sugar, salt and cornflour. stir well and
add boiling milk to the mixture. Microwave
again till thick, stirring after 1 minute. Add
marg and vanilla. Microwave for 1 minute and
pour into crust and sprinkle cinnamon on top.
refridgerate until set.
LAURA MEYER
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m e e T T H e T e a mWe celebrate GINJA's first birthday!
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from left to right: jacqui brown - editor, kate scott - head designer, jorge nicolau - web designer,
sherilee mass - sub-editor, bjrn mhr - PhotograPher & designer, rose collingwood - senior designer, jaco
oosthuyzen - designer, heather skinner - sub-editor, bianca westhorPe-Pottow - content manager
table setting credit: fab functions - michelle larkens | christabellas - christy chubb
| for the table - Penny trytsman | contact details in directory page 137
maggi van rhyn - marketing & Pr
Patience shezi -
admin clerk
nicky mears -
sales manager
thula myeza - merchandiser
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14 GINJA
m e e T T H e T e a m Q & aour fAVouriTeswhat is your favourite reciPe / signature dish? kate: Chargrilled Calamari &
guacamole
jacqui: It's a mood thing, but definitely
something mediterranean, spicy
& seductive.
thula: Dumpling & Tripe Stew
Patience: mealie meal Bread
jorge: marie Biscuit & Coffee Dessert
bjrn: Oven-roasted Pork Knuckle with
Sebago Mash, Sauerkraut & Bier Gravy
sherilee: Chicken & Mushroom Pie
maggi: Black Cherry & Lemon Clafoutis
nicky: Spiced Slow-cooked Lamb Shanks
bianca: Linguini with Parma ham, rocket &
a tomato caper salsa.
rose: Chilli sauce
jaco: oxtail Potjie
heather: Beef Lasagne
who is your favourite chef/ foodie? kate: Jamie oliver
jacqui: Colin fassnidge
thula: Jacqui Brown
Patience: Jacqui Brown &
george german
jorge: gordon ramsay
bjrn: Eden Ginshpan
sherilee: Kristy ellison, she was also the chef
at my wedding, a meal that is spoken
about to this day!
maggi: I am a huge Nataniel Fan!
nicky: Anthony Bourdain (he wrote
Kitchen Confidential as well, which is a
brilliant read)
bianca: Teresa Cutter. Teresa combines
healthy, tasty cooking with an active
lifestyle.
rose: Neil Roake & Katie Quinn Davies
jaco: Jamie oliver
heather: Jan Braai; Local is Lekker!
what is your biggest Pet Peeve in the kitchen? kate: washing dishes
jacqui: Blunt knives & I'm not keen on
'kitchen sloths'.
thula: A messy kitchen & dirty stoves
Patience: Broken utensils
jorge: Washing dishes is my pet peeve
for sure!
bjrn: Cooking in a kitchen full of people, I
am a man who needs my space.
sherilee: DISHES!
maggi: When non-recyclable waste ends
up in the recycling bin.
nicky: Blunt knives
bianca: Blunt knives. Id rather not eat than
savage a tomato with a blunt knife.
rose: Blunt knives
jaco: Cleaning!
heather: Not being able to get fresh quality
produce from the local supermarkets
what ingredient can you not live without in the kitchen? kate: PEPPADEW sweet piquante pepper
and garlic seasoning (omg so yummy)
jacqui: Basil; my love for food is inspired by
Mediterranean flavours.
thula: Onions & Cooking Oil
Patience: onions
jorge: i cant do without my sweet Chilli
Sauce; its part of my Portuguese heritage!
bjrn: Olive Oil, The Olive Tree is surely the
richest gift of heaven
sherilee: garlic
maggi: fresh Lemons; They are my
favourite squeeze!
nicky: Goats Milk Cheese
bianca: Plain yoghurt. i add it to
everything.
rose: Potatoes
jaco: onions
heather: Bacon; everything is better
wrapped in bacon!
view our favourite
reciPes online
www.ginjafood.com
available at all leading homeware stores, kitchenique, banks dealers, binuns, adams, www.yuppiechef.com and www.ginjashop.com
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8/E
Follow us for more @LuckyStarSA on:
Bring out the foodie in you with the 3rd edition of Lucky Stars cookbook. The Lucky Star range is high in protein and Omega-3 fatty acids, and our cookbook is packed with delicious, easy-to-prepare recipes. SMS LUCKY STAR, your name and postal address to 42243 to get your copy.
SMS charged at R30 which covers the price of the book and postage. Every reader who sends the SMS will be entitled to the Lucky Star cookbook. Free SMSes do not apply. Offer ends 30/09/2014. Visit www.luckystar.co.za for Ts&Cs.
43818 LSRecipe Book Ginja Mag.indd 1 2014/04/25 11:28 AM
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TJDR
(CT)
4381
8/E
Follow us for more @LuckyStarSA on:
Bring out the foodie in you with the 3rd edition of Lucky Stars cookbook. The Lucky Star range is high in protein and Omega-3 fatty acids, and our cookbook is packed with delicious, easy-to-prepare recipes. SMS LUCKY STAR, your name and postal address to 42243 to get your copy.
SMS charged at R30 which covers the price of the book and postage. Every reader who sends the SMS will be entitled to the Lucky Star cookbook. Free SMSes do not apply. Offer ends 30/09/2014. Visit www.luckystar.co.za for Ts&Cs.
43818 LSRecipe Book Ginja Mag.indd 1 2014/04/25 11:28 AM
FoodVAN STADEN BROTHERS FENNEL
BOOK REVIEWS HILARY BILLER
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18 GINJA|FOOD
Having worked around the globe, from
locations like Singapore and Dublin to
around the country in sA, Chef gerard
has brought with him over 30 years of
experience. With a list of accomplishments
longer than his menu, Chef gerards
awards include winning four silver medals
for the all Ireland Chefs Competition, Food
Asia Competition, Berlin Chef Olympics
and the Olympics Hot contest. He came
second in the Nestl golden Chefs twice
and was placed third in the Langeberg
Junior Chef of the Year. In 2005 he was also
awarded a silver medal in the regional as
well as national salon Culinaire, followed
by two silver medals in the food Asia
Competition in 2006 and many more.
Home base for him now is at the
eco-estate of Simbithi, at the Fig Tree
restaurant (just past Ballito, north of
Durban). Overlooking a scenic view of
the rolling green hills of the golf course, it
is nestled beneath an enormous fig tree
for which it is named. Chef gerard has
been instrumental in its recent success,
remodelling the restaurant physically
by updating its look and figuratively by
updating the menu and style of food. It is
no longer just a country club restaurant,
but rather one that now attracts a clientele
beyond those wielding golf clubs.
THeres BeeN A seismiC
sHifT iN THe CuLiNAry
LANDsCAPe of KzN iN THe
PAsT DeCADe. PLATes HAVe
sTArTeD sHifTiNg, BoTH
ProVerBiAL AND LiTerAL,
iN THe DireCTioN of New
gourmeT exPerieNCes.
iT is AN ADVeNT of more
DisCerNiNg PATroNs,
wHose PALATes HAVe
BeCome TrANsformeD
By CHefs THAT HAVe
reVoLuTioNiseD THe
LoCAL fooD sCeNe. oNe
suCH iNDiViDuAL, wHo
is rAPiDLy BeComiNg
PiVoTAL To THis
moVemeNT, is executive head chef gerard
van staden of simBiTHi CouNTry CLuBs fig Tree
resTAurANT.
Words + Photos by Shirley Berko
fig-ured out
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fig-ured outGREAT cOOKING
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20 GINJA|FOOD
The interior of the fig Tree and one of Chef Gerard's "impact desserts", Chocolat grenoblois.
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21GINJA|FOOD
LiVe CooKiNg ouTsiDe of TVWe are all used to watching cooking and restaurant
secrets exposed on TV. In fact, as consumers of
media, food and food-related media, we seem
to have an insatiable appetite for reality-based
cooking shows. These shows serve to exploit and
enhance all the gratuitous drama of amateur
and professional food preparation behind closed
kitchen doors. But in actual reality, outside of the
manufactured confines of scripted shows, we
accept that the professional cooking process is a
clandestine one. We expect to order a meal, watch
the waitron disappear through the rabbit hole of the
kitchen door to return later, producing our dish, and
trusting that it was created with a bit of love and a
lot of skill, and hoping that it wasnt microwaved. Our
media-conditioned impression of chefs is that they
are arrogant and angry, with egos more fragile than
the plates their meals are served on.
With a desire to dispel that impression, to create a
more approachable and engaging environment,
Chef Gerard brought with him a spirit of transparency
and openness, wanting to share his knowledge
and cuisine both with diners and his team. when he
moved from Franschhoek to Durban and took over
as Executive Head Chef at the Fig Tree in 2012, one
of the first changes that Chef Gerard implemented
was to create a large service window that allowed
patrons at the restaurant a unique view into the
workings of the kitchen. It proves to be a lot less about
the chaos and drama, and a lot more about the
exceptional skill that is invested into each dish at Fig
Tree. And there is certainly nary a microwave in sight.
my introduction to Chef gerard and his food was at a
chefs table dining experience hosted at the Fig Tree.
This is an event where diners are served in the kitchen
of the restaurant and taken through a multiple-course
menu specially created and presented by the head
chef. This is very much Chef gerards style, affording
the public a unique opportunity to discover what
goes into the preparation of their meals, a further
extension of the window view into the kitchen. A
true and honest cooking display where the results
of hard work and skill trump any scripted tension or
sensationalised tantrums.
This ethos of sharing and showing is what inspires those
who work with him. His sous chef, Godfrey Kinyanjui,
has attributed the blossoming and furthering of his
career to Chef gerards willingness to teach, demand
for excellence and incredible encouragement.
THe seCreT is iN THe sAuCei watched as he and his sous bustled about in the
kitchen in a streamlined fashion, aided by their team.
They prepared the courses for the diners at the chefs
table, as well as for patrons in the main restaurant. It
was inspiring to see how the food was plated, passed
and served under the awed scrutiny of the intrusive
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22 GINJA|FOOD
diners without error or a raised voice. This
energy and precision was reflected in the
meals and the sauces. As much as i am a
passionate devourer of elaborate meals,
it is the humble sauce accompaniment
that can render a dish a memorable
or forgettable one. When asked what
the secret to his sauces is, Chef gerard
explained that every sauce or jus needs
to have sweet, sour and savoury notes to
give it substance. it is this signature that is
notable throughout his food.
we enjoyed a beautiful starter of langoustine
ravioli with peas, butternut and lemon foam
settled in a sauce Amricaine. The ravioli
was fresh and delicious, with the enjoyable
sweetness of the langoustine and butternut.
The sauce was delicate, a surprising
complexity of flavours belied by the benign
simplicity and lightness of the dish.
The second course, the entre, was a
chicken and Mediterranean vegetable
phyllo parcel with a tomato vinaigrette
and barley succotash (a corn and bean
mix, usually). Again, the sauce was the
winner for me as the most seemingly
incongruous item on the plate yielded the
most depth and flavour and combined the
rest of the elements on the plate together.
This was followed by the main course of
pork belly, slow roasted over 24 hours, with
jalapeo salsa and apple tarte tatin. The
pork was so soft that it could have been
eaten with a spoon. The sweet, savoury
and sour signature secret was evident
as the sauce twirled this dish into an
unforgettable experience on my tongue.
finally, there was dessert. Now fast
becoming one of the most popular
items on the fig Tree menu, Chef gerard
explained that this is what is known as an
impact dessert. It is called a Chocolat
grenoblois. A confection made with
chocolate, coffee and nuts. it is a french
twist on the humble brownie; a chocolate
sphere, berry caviar and caramelised
hazelnuts garnished with lemon rind, and
perched on berry leather. The impact
came when waitrons arrived armed with
small jugs of hot caramel sauce. This was
poured over the orb and melted away
the chocolate shell to reveal its soft gooey
centre. A chocolate planet, decimated by
caramel lava, exposes its decadent core
to gastronomic delight.
The imagination that was employed
in creating such dishes and flavours is
consistent to even the more regular meals.
There is a prawn, chilli and truffle essence
cappellini and a dish of Californian rigatoni
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chilli pastaPRAWN AND
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24 GINJA|FOOD
Display of Chef gerard's exquisite plating techniques.
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25GINJA|FOOD
pasta with lemon mascarpone that are a pleasure to
look at and incredible to eat.
This is a chef and restaurant to watch. with such
culinary magic being made after just two short years at
the helm, its clear that there is so much more to come.
PrAwN AND CHiLLi PAsTA serves 2
200g shelled medium prawns
20g tomato paste
20g chopped tomatoes
20g chopped onions
2g thinly sliced chilli
15g basil pesto
150g capeli di angelo pasta
150g cream
5g thinly sliced garlic
50g Parmesan cheese
10ml truffle oil
25g finely shaved fennel bulb
10g Pea shoots
100ml olive oil
1 lemons juice
5g coriander
2g dill
for the Prawn sauce
200g shelled medium prawns, cleaned
100ml olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1 tomato, chopped
1 onion, diced
2g chilli, thinly sliced
20g tomato paste
150ml fresh cream
salt & pepper
for the Pasta
150g angel hair pasta
15g basil pesto
50g Parmesan cheese, grated
10ml truffle oil
for the garnish
25g finely shaved fennel bulb
small handful pea shoots
coriander
dill
PrAwN sAuCe
1. Preheat a stainless steel pan on high heat. Add
olive oil, then add prawns and fry until they lightly
colour to pink.
2. Pour in the lemon juice and reduce until
caramelized.
3. Mix in the tomatoes, chilli and onions and cook
until the onions are translucent and the tomatoes
have softened. Stir through the tomato paste and
cream. season to taste.
PAsTA
Cook pasta to packet instructions until al dente.
Drain and mix with the pesto.
To serVe
Divide pasta equally into bowls. Add prawn sauce on
top. Arrange pea shoots over the sauce, with a drizzle
of the truffle oil. Add a sprinkle of the parmesan and
garnish with the fresh herbs and an arrangement of
the shaved fennel. serve immediately.
queries, requests and bookings can be made at:
+27 (0)32 946 5402/3/4 [email protected]
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l i Q u i d B u T T e r n u T r av i o l i W i T H s e s a m e g o aT ' s C H e e s e
a n d B a l s a m i C o n i o n s
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27GINJA|FOOD
T o s e aSAVANNAH
fooD HAs ALwAys BeeN A ViTAL PArT of wHo i Am, i was
brought up and inspired by my mother and grandmothers
traditional South African style cooking and my grandfather was
a cook on the trains apparently cooking is in my blood and
became an interest since an early age. As a child, i remember
running a small chocolate shop with homemade delicacies
at school, even catering for my moms work and helping at a
dough-nut stand over weekends at the local flea market. I soon
realised that becoming a chef was no longer an option.
I started training as an apprentice chef in Johannesburg at
a prestigious hotel right after school. Those three years of
hands-on training proved to be invaluable, I gained practical
experience and completed my Professional Chefs course
with distinction. It was in 2001, working at andBeyond Phinda,
that the idea of an African cookbook took shape in my mind.
I was constantly searching for African inspired cuisine with
modern twists but only able to source a handful that i could
use and in that moment started harboring my own dreams
of one day publishing an African cook book to inspire young
chefs. A couple of years later, I was given the opportunity to
work for Birkenhead House in the Western Cape, where I was
appointed as Head Chef at only 25 years old. During my time
there I won the Bush Banquet Chef of the year for 2005.
My longing for the bushveld kept coming back to haunt me
and soon decided to return. Jamala Madikwe was the perfect
opportunity to help build and create an incredible lodge with
phenomenal food. We recently won the Safari Awards, Best
Safari Cuisine in Africa 2014.
I adore organic local produce, always trying to source fresh
seasonal items myself, making sure I know the origin and
quality of the stock. The better the quality of the produce the
better the end product will be. At home I love to cook very
simply, enhancing the flavour of each item and still retaining
its integrity. my food is often intuitive and not based on strict
rules or recipes. I think everybody should cook with this kind of
gastronomic abandon; open your mind, create and play with
flavours textures and smells.
I hope this book will inspire young upcoming African chefs to
draw from our rich and diverse continent and to revel in our
inspired landscapes, culture, rituals and produce.
NiCo VersTer's fiNe CuisiNe uNDer AN AfriCAN sKy
extracted from "savannah to sea" by nico verster (struik lifestyle)
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28 GINJA|FOOD
LiquiD BuTTerNuT rAVioLi wiTH sesAmegoAT's CHeese AND BALsAmiC oNioNsThis is not a classic ravioli recipe, but plays on the
concept. Alginate extracted from seaweed is used in
foods as a stabiliser and thickener. I love this starter as
it always surprises people and is a real show stopper.
serves 6 sodium alginate bath
400 ml cold water
2 g sodium alginate*
butternut Pure
2 small butternut squash, halved and seeded
4 tbsp salted butter, softened
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
zest of 1 orange
zest and juice of 1 lime
3 tbsp orange blossom honey
a pinch of ground cinnamon
butternut ravioli
cup butternut pure
tsp calcium lactate*
sesame goat's milk cheese
1 roll chvre (goat's milk cheese)
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
balsamic onions
2 red onions, sliced
1 tbsp oil for frying
a pinch of sea salt
1 tsp brown sugar
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sprigs fresh thyme for garnishing
* Available from speciality food stores and online
suppliers such as www.chefswarehouse.co.za
1. Preheat the oven to 200 C.
2. To prepare the sodium alginate bath, mix the
water and sodium alginate in a bowl with a stick
blender then set aside for 30 minutes.
3. For the butternut pure, rub the insides of the
butternuts with 2 tablespoons of the butter, then
season. Place in a roasting pan, skin-side down, and
bake for 40 minutes or until tender. Scoop the flesh
out of the skins and place in a food processor. Add
the orange zest, lime zest and juice, honey and the
remaining butter, then pure until smooth. Add a
pinch of salt and cinnamon. Pulse the pure a few
times to mix through, then pass through a fine sieve.
4. To make the ravioli, pour the butternut pure
and calcium lactate into a bowl and mix well. Drop
tablespoonfuls of the butternut mixture into the
alginate bath prepared earlier. Leave each spoonful
in the alginate for 3 minutes before removing with a
slotted spoon and rinsing in clean water. Keep cool
(in a cool place, but not the refrigerator).
5. Roll the goat's milk cheese in the sesame seeds,
slice into 1-cm rounds, then set aside.
6. fry the onions in the oil with the salt until soft. stir in
the sugar, vinegar and seasoning, then cook slowly
until jam-like in consistency.
7. To serve, top the onions with the cheese, followed
by the butternut ravioli, and garnish with thyme.
PorK sHouLDer wiTH BABy APPLe CiDer sAuCeThis rustic dish is easy to prepare and perfect for
winter. It also uses a less expensive cut of meat,
turning it into something very special. The pork
shoulder needs to marinate overnight, so make this
recipe one day in advance. Pork belly and cheek
work equally well.
serves 82.5 kg deboned pork shoulder, scored
2 sticks lemongrass, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bunch fresh sage, chopped
1 finger fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, grated
4 tbsp dark soy sauce
juice of 1 lemon
juice of 1 lime
100 ml apple cider
1 tsp sea salt
1 red chilli, sliced
18 canned whole baby apples (with skin
and stems)
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P o r k s H o u l d e r W i T H B a BY a P P l e C i d e r s a u C e
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C H o C o l aT e T r u F F l e d a C Q u o i s e
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31GINJA|FOOD
tin to mark circles on the parchment paper.)
2. To prepare the dacquoise, sift together the icing
sugar and cocoa powder in a mixing bowl. In the
bowl of a mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add
the cream of tartar and 1 tablespoon of the white
sugar, and beat until soft peaks form. With the mixer
running, gradually add the remaining white sugar,
beating until stiff, glossy peaks form. Gently fold the
egg white mixture into the sugar and cocoa mixture.
3. Pipe the dacquoise mixture into two 23 cm
diameter spirals - from the centre out - onto the
prepared baking trays, then bake for 60-90 minutes.
(Watch the dacquoise to make sure it doesn't burn.)
Turn off the oven, leaving the dacquoise to dry out
until the oven is completely cool (at least 4 hours).
4. For the filling, in a heatproof bowl over simmering
water break the chocolate into small pieces, add
the syrup and pour in half the cream. Allow to melt,
stir until smooth then set aside to cool.
5. Pour the rest of the cream into a mixing bowl and
add the coffee and cinnamon. Whip until stiff peaks
form. Pour the melted cooled chocolate into the
cream and fold in gently to combine.
6. To assemble, place one dacquoise spiral in the
base of the prepared cake tin. Pour half the filling
onto the dacquoise, layering it with the second
dacquoise and the rest of the filling. Leave to set in
the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Gently warm the
cake tin with a tea towel soaked in hot water before
unmoulding. Decorate with berries, cherries and
chocolate truffles.
1. To marinate the pork shoulder, cover it (skin-side
up) with the lemongrass, thyme, sage, ginger, garlic,
soy sauce, lemon juice, lime juice, apple cider, salt,
chilli and 6 of the apples. Cover with clingfilm and
leave overnight. The following day, remove from
the refrigerator and leave the pork to reach room
temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 150 C. Transfer the pork to
a shallow roasting dish, but reserve the marinade.
Roast the meat uncovered for 3 hours, then turn
the oven up to 250 C and cook for a further 30
minutes to allow the skin to crisp.
3. For the apple cider sauce, place the reserved
marinade in a saucepan and bring to a simmer on
the stovetop for 15 minutes, or until it coats the back
of a spoon. Check the seasoning, add the remaining
12 apples and simmer in the sauce for 5-6 mintues to
warm through.
4. Serve the pork drizzled with the baby apple
cider sauce.
CHoCoLATe TruffLe DACquoiseA dacquoise is a dessert cake comprising layers of
meringue and whipped cream. This chocolate version
is totally decadent and has no calories, of course.
serves 16berries, cherries and chocolate truffles for decorating
chocolate dacquoise
1 cups icing sugar
5 tbsp cocoa powder
6 egg whites
1 tbsp cream of tartar
cup white sugar
filling
250 g dark chocolate
2 tbsp golden syrup
2 cups fresh double cream
4 tsp instant coffee granules
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1. Preheat the oven to 160 C. Line 2 baking trays
with well-greased parchment paper and grease a
23-cm springform cake tin. (Use the base of the cake
win 1 of 3 savannah to
sea cookbooks. To enter
complete the following
statement. savannah to
sea is a culinary journey
with an_____twist. sms
"Savanna2Sea" + your
answer and full name to
45901 by 31 July 2014. T's
& C's apply. SMS charged
at R1.50
-
32 GINJA|FOOD
suNDAy Times fooD
weeKLy eDiTor &
WINNER OF THE 2014 uJ Tourism AND
HosPiTALiTy AwArD,
hilary biller, sHAres iNsiDe sCooP AND
THree of Her fAVouriTe
wiNTer reCiPes.
Hilary grew up in Durban and after completing
matric was unsure of what to do with her life.
Opting for a secretarial course she then worked
for a couple of years before stumbling on a
course in food and clothing. Funny those
secretarial skills and particularly touch typing
have stood me in good stead in my career,
said Hilary. Her passion for food was instilled by
her father, a frustrated accountant wannabe
chef with a refined palate and a great love
of food. Hilary went on to study a three-year
diploma in food and clothing at Wits Tech
(which was later incorporated into the University
of JHB) and her second job was with, the then
Womans Value magazine in 1985. She is now
the editor of the very successful sunday Times
Food Weekly supplement and prior to this she
was The Stars Angela Day for 11 years.
qs & as: hilary shares with ginja
ginja: is there a chef you admire the most?
who and why?
Hilary: Id say Jamie Oliver because I had
the opportunity to interview him in London
many years ago. What a treat. His passion
and energy are palpable. Hes made a huge
contribution to the global food industry and
inspired and encouraged so many to cook.
What a boykie.
ginja: which talent would you most like to
have that you dont possess?
Hilary: Id love to be able to crochet!
ginja: is there a food that you hate?
Hilary: Tomato soup turns me cold. Its too
concentrated and any dish with an intensity of
tomato flavor.
A few scoops
of Hilary
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34 GINJA|FOOD
baby marrow and mushroom cheesecake
ginja: what kinds of ethnic food do you think
are underrated right now?
Hilary: South American and, particularly,
mexican food. what we eat as mexican, in
SA, is American-Tex-Mex. A spin - off of the
upcoming Soccer World Cup in Brazil is the
wealth of exotic South American flavours and
ingredients visitors will be introduced too and
this is sure to spread the unique tastes around
the world.
ginja: if you could read anyones diary, whose
would it be?
Hilary: It would be nice to have some dirt on
Gordon Ramsay!
ginja: favourite kitchen equipment or gadget?
Hilary: My Global knife. I cant do anything
without a Global knife.
ginja: best piece of advice you would give a
home enthusiast?
Hilary: Dont over complicate food. Use simple
recipes that showcase the ingredients for what
they are.
ginja: if you had just one wish, what would it be?
Hilary: To lose 20kg overnight so I could start all
over again!
BABy mArrow AND musHroom CHeeseCAKeA baby marrow and mushroom cheesecake.
I love it because its savoury, so flavoursome
and makes a perfect meatless dinner dish
when served warm."
50g fresh brown breadcrumbs
50g oats
75g butter, melted
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35GINJA|FOOD
salt and pepper, to taste
filling:
250g garlic-and-herb cream cheese
3 extra-large eggs, separated
150g white cheddar cheese, grated
30g parmesan cheese, finely grated
175ml thick plain yoghurt
100g baby marrows, grated
100g button mushrooms, finely chopped
5ml (1 tsp) mustard powder
dash of cayenne pepper
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 160C. Mix together the
breadcrumbs, oats, butter, salt and pepper
and press into the base of a sprayed 20cm
loose-bottomed cake pan. Beat together the
cream cheese and egg yolks. Add the cheddar,
parmesan, yoghurt, baby marrows, mushrooms,
mustard powder and cayenne pepper and mix
well. Season to taste. Whisk the egg whites till stiff,
adding a pinch of salt, then fold them into the
batter and spoon into the prepared pan. Bake for
45 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the
touch. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then loosen
edges with knife and turn out. Serve warm or cold.
sALmoN fisH CAKesMy easy peasy Thai salmon fish cakes. Its my
kind of food quick to put together without
compromising on flavour.
makes 12-18 (depending on size)
1 x 418g can pink salmon drained, skin and
bones removed (or 2 cans tuna chunks, drained)
handful fresh parsley or coriander, finely
chopped
salmon fish cakes
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spicy sausage and vegetable soup with tomato and olive bread
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37GINJA|FOOD
1 red chilli, seeded and chopped
60g (1 cup) fresh white breadcrumbs
15ml (1 tbsp) fish sauce
1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten
salt and black pepper, to taste
cake flour, for dusting
sunflower oil, for frying
sweet chilli sauce, to serve
Combine salmon parsley, fresh chilli,
breadcrumbs and fish sauce in a bowl and work
in the egg to make a batter. If too runny, add
extra breadcrumbs. Season and shape into balls
with wet hands. flatten into discs, coat lightly in
flour and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Heat about
3cm oil in a pan and fry the fish cakes until
golden on both sides. Drain on paper towel.
Serve with sweet chilli dipping sauce.
sPiCy sAusAge AND VegeTABLe souP wiTH TomAToAND oLiVe BreADI absolutely adore soups and a chorizo and veg
soup served with tomato and olive bread is a
current favourite. Chorizo sausage is one of my
favourite foods.
serves 4-6
tomato and olive bread
4 extra-large eggs, beaten
280g (2 cups) self-raising flour, sieved
5ml (1 tsp) baking powder
45ml (3 tbsp) olive oil
15ml (1 tbsp) tomato paste
handful pitted black olives
6-8 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained
and finely chopped
handful fresh basil, chopped
salt and black pepper
30ml (2 tbsp) black and white sesame seeds
souP
30ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
100g streaky bacon, cubed
2 onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery sticks, finely sliced
1.5 litres chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 x 400g can cannellini beans, rinsed
and drained
1 spicy sausage (such as chorizo), sliced
salt and pepper
handful fresh parsley, chopped
for THe BreAD, combine eggs, flour and baking
powder in a bowl and mix well. Add oil and
tomato paste and mix until combined. Fold in
olives, sun-dried tomatoes and basil, season and
press into a greased or sprayed loaf pan. Sprinkle
with sesame seeds and bake at 180C for 45
minutes.
for THe souP heat the oil in a pot and fry bacon
and onions for 5 minutes. Add garlic, carrots and
celery, cover with a lid and cook for 3-5 minutes.
Add stock and bay leaf and simmer gently for
25 minutes. Add beans and sausage, season to
taste and simmer for a further 10 minutes. Serve
hot, sprinkled with a little parsley, with the warm
tomato and olive bread on the side.
reciPes and images Previously Published by Sunday TimeS Food Weekly.
-
s m a r T C o o k i n gPowereD By esKom
GinJa|ADVerToriAL
-
s m a r T C o o k i n g
iN wiNTer we CrAVe wArm,
HOME-COOKED, HEARTY DISHES,
ANyTHiNg THAT wiLL eAse THe CHiLL
THAT CreePs iN. fAmiLies HuDDLe
ArouND THe KiTCHeN TABLe AND
eNJoy THe sPeCiAL CLoseNess
THAT Comes from sHAriNg
souL fooD.
The traditional family feasts that
keep winter at bay, require
much time in front of hot stoves
and ovens; electricity intensive
appliances that can make
a significant contribution to
increasing your monthly energy bill.
The answer is in Electricity-smart
cooking- to create winter foods
that still bring out warm smiles of
appreciation and counter an
increase in energy costs. Eskom,
in partnership with Pick-n-Pay,
invite you to join a nation-wide
circle of households dedicated to
environmentally savvy cooking this
winter, and to share your favourite
good taste, electricity smart dishes
with family and friends.
Visit our website www.winter-
cooking.co.za for electricity-smart
recipes, info on how to win fabulous
prizes and to follow and join our
savvy cooking dedication, with
participating Pick-n-Pay Stores and
good food and wine shows.
Save time and most importantly
energy with this Prawn And Chorizo
Risotto, cooked in only 20 minutes
on the stovetop. This Italian risotto is
a heartwarming meal, making you
a sure favourite with anyone you
choose to share it with.
Prawn and chorizo risotto
serves 4
200g chorizo sausage, diced
splash of olive oil
1 onion, chopped
5ml garlic, crushed
1 stick of celery, chopped
250ml risotto rice
60ml white wine
600ml chicken or vegetable stock
125ml Parmesan cheese, grated
60g butter
300g prawns, cooked
60ml parsley, chopped
Pepper
1. Set your pressure cooker on
simmer.
2. Add a splash of olive oil to coat
the bottom of the cooker.
3. Add the chorizo and simmer for 5
mins until it releases some oil.
4. remove and set aside.
5. Add the onion, garlic and celery
to the cooker, simmer for 2 to 3 mins.
6. Add the rice and stir until well
coated with the oil.
7. Add the wine and simmer until it
has evaporated.
8. Add the stock.
9. Seal the pressure cooker and set
the time for 6 mins on high pressure.
10. Use the quick release method to
cool the cooker down.
11. set it on simmer and add the
cheese, butter and prawns.
12. Stir until well-combined.
13. season to taste and stir in the
parsley before serving.
(reciPes insPired by the 49m energy
efficient cookbook and embellished by
justine drake.)
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B a n g - s H o o T !fENNEl, THE WHOlE
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41GINJA|FOOD
feNNeL is NoT A HerB THAT we use oN A DAiLy BAsis,
HoweVer, Due To iTs mANy HeALTH ProPerTies,
PerHAPs iT is A HerB we sHouLD PAy more ATTeNTioN
To. It is one of the few plants where the roots, stalk,
seeds, leaves and pollen are all used. The plant has an
aromatic, unique taste strikingly similar to that of liquorice
and anise. it has a crunchy and striated texture similar
to that of celery. fennel is a strong, natural antioxidant
and has a fascinating phytonutrient compound called
Anethole - the primary component of its volatile oil.
studies have shown fennel to be effective in reducing
inflammation and may help prevent the occurrence of
cancer. The fennel bulb is an excellent source of Vitamin
C, which neutralizes free radicals in all the aqueous
environments of the body preventing cellular damage
that results in pain and joint deterioration, as well as a
good boost to our immune systems. fennel contains
potassium, manganate, copper, phosphorus, iron, niacin
and calcium. It has been discovered that the fibre in
the fennel bulb may assist in reducing high cholesterol
levels and preventing colon cancer. Folate (a VIT B) is
also found in the bulb with potassium which are both
conducive to lowering the risk of heart attack and stroke.
originating in the mediterranean, then carried north from
Italy by monks, its used in nearly every cuisine, flavoring
dishes from indian curries to french stews. in france and
Italy, fennel is a versatile vegetable playing an important
role in their food culture. Today, the usA, france, india
and russia are among the leading cultivators of fennel.
When selecting fennel in the market, look for bulbs that
are clean, hard and firm without signs of splitting and
bruising. The bulbs are whitish or pale green in color and
the stalks and leaves are freshly green in color and should
not have any flowering buds. Fresh fennel has a fragrant
aroma and is available from autumn through to spring.
Fennel keeps fresh in a refrigerator for up to four days
F e n n e l H a s m a n Y m e d i C i n a l P r o P e r T i e s T H aT m a k e i T W o r T H l e a r n i n g H o W T o u s e T H i s Fa B u l o u s P l a n T i n C o o k i n g .and can also be frozen after blanching but will lose a
little of its pungent flavour. Store dried fennel seeds in
an airtight container in a cool, dry spot and they will last
for up to 6 months, alternatively you can keep them in
the refrigerator. Fennel is classified as both a herb and a
vegetable. it is versatile and can be sauted, braised,
used for garnishing or side dishes. The flavour of the bulb
is more pronounced when used raw, and is refreshing in
salads with citrus. The bulbs are also commonly roasted
or grilled. The leaves can be used in salad greens,
grilled fish dishes and soups to impart a more delicate
flavour. The flavour of fennel compliments both savory
and sweet dishes. The pollen is a rare luxury - tiny dried
heads of fennel flowers. The spice has a sweeter and
far more intense flavour than fennel seeds, meaning
that a little goes a long way. Fennel pollens nickname
The Spice of Angels is probably a more appropriate
way of labelling the spice. The honey-aniseed flavours
work wonderfully alongside pork and roast chicken, or
sprinkled on salads and vegetables. For the fullest
taste, add the fennel pollen at the end of cooking as
a finishing flavour.
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42 GINJA|FOOD
It is popular among herbalists and has been used for
thousands of years as a natural remedy, most commonly
for digestive problems. Fennel has many medicinal
properties that make it worth learning how to use this
fabulous plant in cooking. It stimulates the appetite,
soothes the digestive system particularly for those
undergoing radiation and chemotherapy. Fennel is also
used to treat congestion, conjunctivitis and anaemia.
Plant fennel in your garden or in a deep pot and in no
time you will have your own homegrown pharmacy in
your backyard and may enjoy the wonderful health
benefits of this versatile plant.
There are two types of fennel that you can grow in your
garden, depending on how you plan to use the plant.
Florence Fennel is used more like a vegetable and
is grown for its bulbous stem. Herb fennel does not
produce much of a bulb and is typically grown for its
foliage and used as a herb. fennel needs full sun, fertile
and well-drained soil. It self sows easily so you will see
it popping up in your garden every year. It is advisable
not to plant your fennel seedlings in the same area as
coriander and dill as they tend to cross-pollinate. Fennel
is easy to grow and rarely suffers from pest problems.
Discover with fennel at home, try these fentastic
recipes.
oVeN roAsTeD feNNeLThis easy to prepare dish makes for a delicious side with
your sunday roast; or just about any meal.
4 fennel bulbs, remove and keep green leaves
cup quality olive oil
cup chopped pecan nuts
cup fennel seeds
4 whole star anise
salt & black pepper
1. Heat Oven to 180C.
2. Blanch whole fennel bulbs in boiling water for
approximately 10 minutes; be careful to not overcook;
the bulbs should still be slightly firm.
3. Drain it well and arrange in a well-greased oven dish
or baking sheet.
4. Coat with olive oil; salt; pepper; pecan nuts and
fennel seeds and toss with your hands. Add the whole
star anise to the oven dish.
5. Roast for 30 minutes or until the fennel is
golden brown.
6. Scatter with reserved chopped green leaves to add
color before serving.
PorK LoiN PoT roAsTThis no fuss recipe is packed with goodness and for a
low fat version; one can use lean cuts of pork.
4 Pork loin steaks
1 large red onion, sliced
2 thinly sliced garlic cloves
4 thyme sprigs
500g whole baby potatoes
2 fennel bulbs thinly sliced
300ml chicken stock
salt & pepper
1. Heat Oven to 180C.
2. Put the potatoes; fennel, onion, garlic and thyme into
a large roasting pan and mix together with the stock.
3. Tightly cover roasting pan with tin foil and cook for 30
minutes.
4. remove from oven and increase the oven
temperature to 220C.
-
P o r k l o i n P o T r o a s T
o v e n r o a s T e d F e n n e l
-
W H o l e g r a i n r Y e B r e a d l o a F W i T H F e n n e l s e e d
C r e a m Y F e n n e l m a s H e d P o TaT o e s
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45GINJA|FOOD
5. Remove the foil and place the pork loin in the roasting
tin nestling in between the veg, season well with salt &
pepper and return roasting pan to the oven for 15-20
minutes or until golden brown.
wHoLegrAiN rye BreAD LoAf wiTH feNNeL seeD A nourishing seed loaf, perfect with homemade soup
this winter.
200g rye flour, plus a little extra for dusting
200g wholegrain flour
7g fast action dried yeast
1 tbsp honey
250ml warm water
tsp fine salt
2 tsp fennel seeds
1. Heat oven to 200C.
2. Place the rye flour, wholegrain flour; yeast and salt into
a bowl.
in a jug, mix the honey with the warm water, and then
pour the liquid into the flour bowl and mix to form a
dough.
3. Rye flour can be quite dry and absorbs a lot of water;
if the dough looks too dry add a little more warm water
at a time until you have a soft dough.
4. Tip the soft dough out onto your work surface and
knead for 10 minutes until smooth.
5. Place the dough into a well-oiled bowl and cover
with cling wrap. Leave to rise in a warm place for 1 2
hours or until the dough has doubled in size.
6. Once the dough has risen, tip back onto your work
surface; add the fennel seed and knead briefly in order
to release any air bubbles.
7. Dust a loaf tin with flour; and pop the dough into your
tin. Cover the tin with slightly oiled cling wrap and leave
to rise for an additional 1 2 hours or until doubled in size.
8. Remove cling wrap and bake in preheated oven for
30 minutes until brown.
9. Transfer to a wire cooling rack and leave to cool
before serving.
CreAmy feNNeL mAsHeD PoTAToes An aromatic twist to your typical mashed potatoes.
2 large potatoes; peeled and cut into blocks
2 tbsp butter
1 tsp fennel seed
salt & pepper
1 large fennel bulb; chopped roughly in large blocks
cup sour cream
1 tsp minced garlic
1. Bring slightly salted water to boil in large pot; and add
the potatoes; cook until tender; and drain.
2. While the potatoes boil; melt the butter in a large pan
and add the fennel seed and garlic; allow to bubble
together for a minute.
3. Add the fennel bulb blocks, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and cook on a medium heat for 15-20
minutes until soft. Add the cup of cream until
it is just beginning to bubble.
4. Mash the potatoes; and stir in the fennel-
cream mixture.
5. Season with more salt & pepper to taste & serve.
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46 GINJA|FOOD
Words + Photos supplied by Lapa Publishers
Niel StemmetBACK + PAGE: HERITAGE FOOD AND JOURNEYS
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47GINJA|FOOD
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48 GINJA|FOOD
nil stemmet is a story teller.
He LeArNeD ABouT
sTories AT His
grANDfATHers KNee. His
PAssioN iN Life is fooD
of THe PAsT, AND TeLLiNg
THe sTories ABouT fooD
worTH rememBeriNg
THAT simPLy Beg To Be
ToLD. BeCAuse we ALL
PAss oN, sTories Are THe
oNLy THiNgs THAT eNDure
iN THis worLD.
On January 11, 2014, Anneke Blaise wrote a
foreword for back+page. On February 17,
2014, she died of cancer, and so bestowed
on back+page a whole new dimension. Half
of the royalties this book generates will be
donated to cancer research.
Yes, back+page is more than a cook+book;
it is also a story+book, a food+book, a
memory+book, a heritage+book. Its in full
colour, for Nil wanted to be different than
his teachers at school: My eyes wanted
to read colour into everything, but in my
teachers eyes everything was black-and-
white, and that was that!
That is exactly why Nil loves quilts: Quilts
tell stories. Every one that I possess tells a
different story. And every story triggers
new stories. este de Nysschen writes from
Panama how she started teaching the
poor, dirt poor, poorest-of-the-poor widows
in Afghanistan how to make quilts from
scraps of fabric. In back+page, Nil Stemmet
not only perpetuates the success story he
enjoyed with his debut, salt+pepper, but also
spices up his new collection of stories with
letters from inspired readers.
Nil Stemmet has not had it easy at school
as well as elsewhere. Now he has taken up
the cause of those who suffer. This book,
-
oven baked lamb shoulder
-
50 GINJA|FOOD
bobotie
-
51GINJA|FOOD
of the original recipe was preserved; leg
of mutton, or ash bread. Lets cook simple
food again, food from the past.
oVeN BAKeD LAmB sHouLDer 2.5 kg lamb shoulder
handful of whole coriander seeds
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp white pepper, ground
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp farm butter
2 oranges, halved
1. Preheat the oven to 140C. Dont rinse the
shoulder of meat; the juices are part of the
heritage story.
2. finely grind a handful of whole coriander
in a mortar and pestle, add salt and white
pepper, and a chunk of farm butter.
3. rub this butter mixture all over the lamb,
into every crevice, with your fingers.
4. Place the shoulder in the oven on a wire
rack, over the halved oranges and oven
pan, to collect the fat, and bake slowly for 2
to 3 hours.
5. All the fat will drain and collect at the
bottom of the oven pan you can use this
flavoursome fat to make roast potatoes.
therefore, is also about women who care for
the children of others as maids and nannies,
bringing up those children as their own. But
Nil also fights for Afrikaans, which is why he
writes up words worthy of remembrance,
such as uitpakslaai (display salad) and
mandjiekos (basket food), or he may
choose his words wisely to tell surprising
stories:
Oupa Koot planted almond trees in the
garden of the town house. He used to
say that the almond trees shed their nuts
because they knew that his back would
become bent and that he would then be
able to collect the nuts from the ground
and hoard them to give to his children and
friends.
Simplicity is important to Nil. According to
him, it should become a lifestyle. Nil tells us
about the people of days gone by who used
to draw their curtains to shield their homes
interior from the searing heat of summer.
why dont we do that anymore, when its
a way of balancing your budget. The same
spirit of humility is also to be found in his
recipes. Back to the days before unnecessary
additives, when food was pure, and the taste
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52 GINJA|FOOD
BoBoTie1 kg minced mutton with fat
1 thick slice of white bread
1 cup full-cream milk
2 large farm eggs
2 onions, finely chopped
2 tbsp curry powder
1 tbsp sugar
1 tsp salt
tsp fine white pepper
juice of 1 lemon
cup raisins, chopped, or 1 cup sour apples,
finely grated
8 almonds, broken into flakes
lemon leaves
1. Use minced meat or cooked mutton that
can be broken into small pieces.
2. Soak the bread in milk and then press out
the milk again keep the milk aside and beat
one of the eggs into the milk with a pinch of
fine salt.
3. Mix the rest of the ingredients, except for
the leaves and almonds. form into a large
meatball. Place in a greased earthenware
baking dish. Pour over the egg milk. Push the
almonds and leaves into the meat. Bake at
150 C for 1 hour if youve used minced meat,
and 40 minutes if youve used cooked meat.
4. Right at the end of the cooking time, you
can turn up the temperature of the oven
to achieve that lovely brown egg-custard
colour on top.
quiNCes of eArLy wiNTer6 quinces
lemon juice
1 tbsp coarse salt
1 tbsp white pepper
200g melted butter
3 tbsp star anise
1. Core and cut the quinces in wedges.
2. Dip in water that you have scented with
fresh lemon juice.
3. Pat dry, brush with butter and season
with salt and white pepper as well as hand
ground star anise.
4. Bake in the oven in a 140C oven
until cooked.
win 1 of 3 back +Page
cookbooks. To enter
complete the following
statement. Back + Page:
_______ food and Journeys.
SMS "Back+Page" + your
answer and full name to
45901 by 31 July 2014.
T's & C's apply. SMS
charged at R1.50
-
53GINJA|FOOD
quinces of early winter
-
o l i v e i Tdaydreams of an olive oil Producer
Life is very different now...
Thoughts of monthly board meetings,
budgets, financial reports and strategic
plans a distant memory - brings a wry smile
to my face. The corporate life of a trained
chartered accountant is dead and buried.
I'm an oil maker- yes I now make olive oil.
It's processing time, my disciplined three
months, from April through to July, early starts
and sometimes a late finish but it does instil
a sense of self discipline after the freedom of
farm life throughout the rest of the year.
Mine's not an office in the city with a daily
commute and a pitched battle with taxis
and the competitive edge of time restricted
office jockeys. Chasing the clock is now
irrelevant - patience my man - that is what
the italian mentor taught me in creating
premium extra virgin olive oil. The fruit will
determine time and you will have time to
think, no not think, more like daydream.
reinvent the world, indulge in a creative
spirit and produce an end product that will
enhance the art of slow food and perhaps
reverse some of the ills of the city life.
High cholesterol and hypertension are
no longer the topic of dinner party
grown, handPicked, Processed and
bottled to order on the estate
brenda and nick
GinJa|ADVerToriAL
-
conversation, a good dollop of my extra
virgin olive oil daily and its inclusion in most
mealtimes has put paid to those concerns
which even has my GP thinking. Yes this
stuff, if good quality, really does help and
the bureaucratic European Union even
acknowledge such findings. Up with the
sunrise, a brisk walk to the shed, check out
the olives to determine the press settings and
fire it all up. A logical sequence: olives to
the washer, then the crusher pushing paste
into the malaxers and slowly kneaded until
the oil starts to glisten. From here its pumped
through the centrifuge to separate the oil
from the pomace and water and finally
lightly filtered and stored away in stainless
steel tanks with a nitrogen blanket to
keep it fresh until packed and sent to
the customer.
Nothing added and nothing taken away,
patience a virtue and time dictated by
a process as old as time itself - equipment is
more modern today but principles haven't
changed and those original Olympians and
even Julius Caesar consumed the very same
liquid gold.
The pace of life has changed, the
surrounding countryside is now my view,
the birds my music and the sunshine my light.
Do i miss the race of time, the daily grind,
chasing the proverbial pot of gold at the
end of the rainbow?
No i'm alive not dead, i create something
worthwhile with my own hands and
it's good, really good. what is more it
promotes health and well being for
all who choose to consume my creation.
rio LArgo exTrA VirgiN oLiVe oiL has
changed my life!
awards
sa olive association
2010 DOUBLE GOLD
2011 DOUBLE GOLD
AND siLVer
2012 DOUBLE GOLD
AND goLD
2013 TRIPLE GOLD
marco zichella awards
2011 FIRST PRIZE INTENSE
2012 CONSUMERS CHOICE
2013 FIRST PRIZE INTENSE AND
CoNsumers CHoiCe
il magnifico
2013 GRAN MENTION
2014 SILVER
los angeles
2012 SILVER
2013 GOLD
jaPan olive oil
comPetition
2014 GOLD
flos olei
2013/2014 TOP OLIVE OILS
of THe worLD
whilst awards are not
everything, they do allow
the consumer a yardstick,
whereby the oils and the
producer can be measured.
rio largo olive estate | 082 340 6726 | www.riolargo.co.za
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dukkahDukkah is an Egyptian recipe made by
blending roasted and groundnuts, seeds
and spices. Served with fresh bread to dip
into olive oil and then into the dukkah.
Often made with pine nuts, with this
version however you can use pistachio
nuts if you like.
ingredients
cup Pine nuts or pistachio nuts
cup coriander seeds
cup sesame seeds
tsp ground cumin
tsp salt
tsp chilli powder
tsp baharat (white and black pepper,
cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg)
method | makes 1 cuPs
1. In a large frying pan over medium-high
heat, combine pine nuts and coriander
seeds. when the mix has started to colour,
add the sesame seeds and continue to
toast until golden brown.
2. Pour the mixture into a food processor.
Add cumin, salt, chilli powder and baharat
mix. Blend together.
3. Use Dukkah as seasoning in cooking, or
serve as an accompaniment with bread
and rio LArgo olive oil.
diPPing oil ingredients
1 cup rio largo extra virgin olive oil
cup rio largo balsamic vinegar
cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tbsp dried basil
tsp salt
tsp Pepper
4-5 giant cloves garlic roasted then minced
method
1. in a jar with a lid, combine oil, vinegar,
cheese, basil, salt, pepper and garlic; stir, or
cover and shake to blend ingredients.
2. Pour into small, shallow bowls or rimmed
plates.
3. Slice or tear bread into pieces and dip
into oil to eat.
tasting is believing. you can
read about great olive oils, and
their vast superiority over bad
oils, all you want. you can hear
folks talk about the subject;
you can watch videos on it;
but, until you try first-rate olive
oil for yourself - actually put
the good stuff in your mouth,
and compare that experience
to the bad stuff youve eaten
in the past - you wont really
get it. you wont fully believe
theres a problem, or, in your
heart of hearts, understand
that all the fuss over bad oil is
entirely justified.
- tom mueller
www.truthinoliveoil.com
dukkah
GinJa|ADVerToriAL
-
rustic italian breadingredients
2 cups lukewarm water (you may not use
all of it)
3 cups all-purpose flour, (or oat flour blend,
or wheat flour)
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp salt
2 tsp active dry yeast or a packet
1 tbsp rio largo extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp sesame seeds (optional for the top)
method
1. Preheat your oven to 180 C.
In a bowl, add 1 cup of warm water and
dry active yeast and let it stand until creamy
(about 5 minutes).
2. In another bowl add flour, salt, and sugar.
After 8 minutes take the yeast mix and add
it to the flour mixture, mixing it in with a fork
until sticky. Add the additional cup of water,
a little at a time until it forms a ball. Note: You
may not need all of the water. Just make
sure the dough is a tad bit moist. Add a little
bit of flour at a time to get it to a less sticky
consistency.
3. Next, sprinkle with a bit more flour and
work it with your hands to make a ball. Its
not necessarily kneading per say. You are just
rolling and tucking in gently to get a
smooth ball.
4. Take the dough and gently mold it into a
smooth but firm ball with an elastic feel.
5. Put the dough back into the bowl and
cover with a kitchen towel and let it rise. This
could take anywhere from 30 minutes to 1
hour. It all depends on the temperature in the
room and the humidity.
6. Once it rises take a little more flour, pat it
down and roll it into a ball again.
7. After you are done with all the rising, take
the dough and put it on the parchment
paper that is on a baking tray. The dough
should be elongated and oval-shaped, with
tapered and rounded (not pointed) ends.
Take about 1 tablespoon of olive oil and coat
the dough with it. This will make it nice and
crunchy on the outside.
8. After you rub it down with olive oil you can
sprinkle a bit of sea salt or sesame seeds on
top.
9. Next, score the top of the dough with a
sharp knife at a 45-degree angle.
10. Bake for 30 minutes, until you hear a hollow
sound when you tap the bottom.
Allow the bread to cool slightly before serving.
Enjoy with dukkah and dipping oil!
rio largo olive estate | 082 340 6726 | www.riolargo.co.za
diPPing oil
rustic italian bread
-
i s aYYOU SAY...
DAViD VAN sTADeN
-
59GINJA|FOOD
eVeryoNe HAs A PersPeCTiVe oN fooD.
AND THe PrePArATioN of fooD is ProBABLy
oNe of THe mosT suBJeCTiVe, PossiBLy
PreJuDiCiAL oPiNioNs oN How we As
CHefs sHouLD Be PrePAriNg or serViNg
your fooD. wiTH THe iNCreAseD exPosure
To CuLiNAry TeLeVisioN ProgrAms To BoTH
eDuCATeD CuLiNAriANs AND AViD AmATeurs
THere seems To Be A PreCoNCeiVeD
exPeCTATioN oN How A CHef sHouLD
BeHAVe, ProDuCe or serVe THeir
PRE-DECIDED MEAL CHOICE EVERYONE
wANTs To Be A CeLeBriTy CHef.
This does not mean that all full time Chefs are
faultless and that amateurs are clueless. of
course at times we do make silly mistakes:
during my early kitchen years, whilst learning
my a la cart skills, my Chef came to me and
complimented a duck dish I was particularly
proud of, how perfectly I had presented it,
its crisp skin, and it was cooked to perfection
he even went on for a while about the
vegetables and starch. One problem
though, he exclaimed.....I eagerly waited
for his infinite wisdom and my inevitable
learning....The guest ordered chicken, and
proceeded to thank me for his dinner. I had
to apologise to that poor guest who probably
had to wait an extra 15 minutes.
As Chefs, we need to navigate the grey in
an attempt to offer what customers often
see as black or white. At the same time, we
need to manage, guide and influence all
who choose to support us and we need to do
this with what often seems to be an antisocial
presence, exacerbated by the often
ridiculous work patterns, adding fuel to what
is perceived as a socially clumsy image.
To quote one of the first culinary rock stars
Mr Marco Pierre White, If I came to your
house for dinner an hour late, then criticized
all your furniture and your wifes haircut and
said that all your opinions were stupid, how
would you feel? Although I have left, for
censorship reasons, the rest of his quote out,
it pretty much highlights the way most Chefs
feel after a long and probably a not great
service period. We take a daily ride on a
very busy emotional rollercoaster. its thrilling,
but exhausting.
Any true Chef dreams, loves and lives for
dining acceptance, in failing our obsessive
quest for your approval, we all too often
become labelled as temperamental, which
is an inevitable reaction to anyone who truly
loves something that much. so in short, yes,
we do take things personally, it couldnt be
more personal.
In saying all that, this is most definitely and
by no means a plea for anyone to go easy
on us and we definitely do not expect you
to always agree with everything we do. Top
of mind of any rational Chef is the fact that
we are manipulating ingredients and placing
them into your body, it definitely doesnt get
any more personal than that! Instant approval
would be naive on our side, to say the least,
so please, be as subjective, prejudicial and
as opinionated as you are. We have grown
to love and revere our puppy-like quest for
your approval. This has after all, advanced
our skills and our quest for service and culinary
excellence.
a n Y T r u e C H e F d r e a m s , l o v e s a n d l i v e s F o r d i n i n g a C C e P Ta n C e , i n Fa i l i n g o u r o B s e s s i v e Q u e s T F o r Y o u r a P P r o va l , W e a l l T o o o F T e n B e C o m e l a B e l l e d a s T e m P e r a m e n Ta l .
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60 GINJA|FOOD
With this long self-rationalised introduction, I
have been requested to be the generalised
blue collar voice of the kitchen where I get to
answer some of the questions I am often asked
and be the neutral culinary voice who, I hope,
will clear up and answer some of the questions
or myths you may have. i have tried to list just
a few common ones that i have come across.
I hope to give you just one more opinion on
how some Chefs may feel at times, in the
future giving you a platform to raise questions
or challenge common thought.
you say: Dont send the food back, you
never know what the chef will do with it in the
kitchen. Then there is the inevitable story of
Bob who used to work in a restaurant whilst he
was a student and a chef used to do all types
of unmentionables to any patron who dared
to disagree with his expertise.
i say: This may have happened in the past but
now days it is most definitely an absolute NO
and in every way unacceptable, if a chef is
caught doing anything vaguely inappropriate
to any guests dishes, they would be hanging
up their apron and the chef telegraph
would begin, leaving that chef cold calling
and trying to sell car tracker systems at a local
telesales office.
you say: The food wasnt nice.
i say: Be specific, we are but a humble cook,
and have given up trying to read minds. I
have to ask, what were you expecting? Too
often you have a pre conceived idea of
what a dish should taste like, e.g. did you
order a dish that sounded similar to a different
restaurant that you may have been going
to for a while, please understand that every
chef, as an individual, will be seeking to
make his own mark, and probably through
his experience chosen to manipulate the
ingredients in his specific way. I understand
that we do drop a catch from time to time,
but a more tangible target is always easier to
pin down.
you say: I would have expected much more
from an establishment such as this.
i say: This generally just gets our back up, it is
patronising and tickles our inherent dyslexic
diplomacy. Basically chefs dont respond
well to reverse psychology and it feeds the
general image of a temperamental chef.
Please stick to the facts, as I previously stated,
most true chefs aspire to your approval and
will definitely be seeking out your culinary
compliment.
you say: Chefs are such Prima Donnas.
i say: Taking all the above into consideration,
and hoping to have cleared up some of this
general misconception, let me try to finally
put this to rest: Other than the general running
of all things other than actual cooking, which
includes all, Employment, Human resources,
industrial relations, Procurement, Hygiene,
receiving, other general meetings (that
people tend to find very relevant now days),
we then have to insure that our menus are
researched and relevant. finally, at crunch
time, we have to insure that every dish you
receive is fresh, tasty, presentable and most
importantly memorable. The challenge is that
when a chef does manage to come out of
his kitchen to meet you, (because he has
been told he is a rock star), he has probably
just served a reasonable amount of dishes
to a however many foodies with as many
preferred and varied tastes and expectations.
Just when that delightful rush of service has
finished, the chef, proudly wearing his blue
collar, at times may very well seem a little
awkward, this in most situations is a probably
a defensive mechanism hoping that he has
met with your approval.
i H o P e T o g i v e Y o u j u s T o n e
m o r e o P i n i o n o n H o W s o m e
C H e F s m aY F e e l aT T i m e s , i n T H e
F u T u r e g i v i n g Y o u a P l aT F o r m T o
r a i s e Q u e s T i o n s o r C H a l l e n g e
C o m m o n T H o u g H T.
-
61GINJA|FOOD
Points to Ponder when making a sPonge.
Firstly you are incorporating as much air into
your egg and sugar mixture as possible. The
less air you mix in, the heavier your sponge
will be, at this stage you cant over mix your
sponge. Now you want to add the flour, by
sifting the flour, you are breaking up any
potential lumps that may have been
caused by moisture.
Fold in the flour gradually, a little flour at a
time, focusing on the sides of the bowl and
folding into the middle of the bowl, until all
the flour is incorporated and slightly sticky,
not gooey. (i use my hand as i can feel
the texture of the sponge The messiness
is liberating. For the fickle few, use a rubber
spatula). Flour contains gluten, which is the
elasticity in flour and develops elastic bonds
that increases the more it is worked. In short if
you work the flour too much, you will not only
knock the air out of your batter, but also over
develop the gluten that will in turn make
your sponge heavy and chewy.
If, on the other hand, you dont work your
sponge enough, you will end up with very
crumbly sponge. Simple, dont over work the
sponge, and dont under work your sponge,
I suppose Im trying to say PRACTICE!
In baking and actually in all cooking, logic
must prevail, you will notice that for the
sponge roll the baking temperature is very
high, and the sponge is medium. Your aim
when baking is to transfer the heat, in this
case, 100C as this is the temperature when
the starches cook. You want to keep as
much moisture in the mixture as possible, if
you tried to bake the sponge at 100C, you
would have a biscuit. The sponge roll is thin
so the core reaches the required 100C
very quickly, and the opposite for the
sponge cake.
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62 GINJA|FOOD
T i F Fa n Y P e T i T F o u r s
-
63GINJA|FOOD
TiffANy PeTiT fours Sponge cake, 3 simple ingredients, 2 simple
steps, but so many uses! This is a basic recipe
that I believe if you love pastry making you
should master. To celebrate Ginjas 1st birthday,
I am going to show you how to make Tiffany
Petit fours. This is a general recipe anyone can
make with normal ingredients, it has so many
uses so dont be limited by what i have done.
When thinking of its many other applications, 2
other very useful ingredients will help Although
it may sound very Martha Stewart A little
passion and a lot of imagination.
for the sPonge
8 eggs
200g sugar
200g cake flour
if you wanted to make a chocolate
sponge, use:
180g cake flour
20g cocoa powder
1. Add the eggs and sugar and whisk in a
planetary mixer on high, I always tell students
to wait for the batter to slap the sides of the
mixing bowl.
2. Sift, then carefully fold the flour into the
beaten egg mixture.
3. Spread the batter evenly over a Teflon sheet
and bake at 240C. It should only take about
3 4 minutes, remove from the oven when it is
golden brown.
You can use the exact recipe if you want to
make a wonderful natural plain sponge cake,
use your desired cake mold and fill the mold to
but bake at 170C.
swiss roll
Too make the Swiss roll, when the sponge has
cooled turn the sponge upside down using
some castor sugar to stop the sponge from
sticking to the paper, then spread your favorite
filling, which can be caramel, any jam you
like or even chocolate ganache and broken
meringues (it gives the sponge some texture)
then roll it like you would sushi. Best to leave it
to set for a hour or so and it will slice easier.
for the Pettit fours
Layer the sponges using whichever filling you
like (as long as it sticks) normally about 3 or 4
layers, try not to use too much spread as it
will make the glazing difficult. Then cover with
silicon paper and place an additional tray on
top, I normally weight the sponge down with
whatever I can find.
Next cut the sponge into whatever shape you
would like. Prepare a glaze using only icing
sugar and enough water to achieve a thick
honey like texture. Heat the glaze to 50C,
flavor as you like, then dip the precut shapes
into the icing whilst it is still warm. garnish
and enjoy..
Born up a tree!!
-
64 GINJA|FOOD
CHeF ' s PiCk
AwArD wiNNiNg CHefs AT myogA CHef miKe BAsseTT AND CHef eVAN CoosNer sHAre THis sumPTuous reCiPe wiTH giNJA.
www.myoga.co.za
This is an amazing Asian inspired dish
mainly from Korea with the kimchi but
Chinese flavors of black bean creep
in and some definite French influences
like the terrine molding and the base of
mayonnaise. This is finished with some
fresh coriander paste to give it a nice