garment dyeing.pdf

7/25/2019 garment dyeing.pdf

1/9

Inan Journa o Fib & Txi RsearhVol 0, Dembr 2005 pp 4847

Review Aticle

Garmnt dyj g

] N Charaboty", R udaj Pal & P R Megha

National Institue of Tchnology, alanhar 4 4 0 I Iia

Rvd Jn 005; acpd 3 Mh 00

Garmnts ar eithe ppar irtly rom procsse fabri or th grey abi i onvrt int garn lw byproessing . Ou of hs wo the atter has gained undu mportan to ake prsnt ay naio mo ivy hispapr eviws the reasons bhi this nw halenge a s wl as othr hna asps rat to ying o garm.

Kyod : Dyeing, Gamn Gamnt assoris

PC Cod Int Cl 7 D0PIOO, D0P3/00

IntroductonGme ye pocee eemly

polfee ef ye f eceye Necee of qcke fo ceeco l co of poco eeeec o ye me ve ece e ee fome ye Bee of poce ce yme ye pocee evo ve o q ckepoe veoy coo Poce leme coely ee ece y lmo 33%o me ye ecqe ce color e e e ppe poce c Ameo

o ey moo ece epleme ofock ee e o ece evel ofock o comp lee compee cool co ve ecely emee o ofee of me ye ecqe joee me ye eveope o evceomec mke ecepol pee of epoe me of ffee fom ocooo pove y e coopoce

Eevo of clo y o vemm m e ly epec of cooo Eeo pope cooo fley oe feecofom o e l e o-lve fo eem me ye o poco of qlyme mee e em of come ecl/ .Meo of me ye ve ccelly eemplemee o ye o coo coo

" To who al he orrespondene shoul d be adressdPhoe 29030 -02 xtn 2 2 : ax: +9 8 -29020/29092;E-mal : hakraboryjn @hotmail om

m cle k e o ov oe eceevelopme poce o ooe mHoeve me ye o cylc poymepolyee e le lo oke eece p Ce eece m yefom e po of ve of me poc y ee ece of e o ppee eceyfo qck epoe ece loe om yefc e o eqe ke v loeey e o co v ece eoyv y o poce me ce vpoco o fomy ye me o

vo e ffee p of mece of e ye eco compe

coveo fe e/ycee me ye Gme ye cve c eve o fo op v flyoeme ye y mo commo ye e c e opeo of mecove ove ke c ye o fe ye of pe coo oofo oqe e o colo e olye fo v e ec em oo le o oe

o ove ye o effec 9. Coo me e ppe ee ee o pepe fo ye fom f e me ee fom fll co/lec pocee comee le fo P pep fo yegme mll mo of cemcl e o ceme mfc pocee c ofec lc m e emove o eevel ye Pope pepo el m 60-70% o


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CHAKRABORY el at. : GARM YG 469

ye poem Gme poei oe fmf eie m i ppoiekoee oopeio ooio feekeee e eie m pepio fiepme e opeo meye Oee mpee poe polem me e oo ppee exe myevoke e o mmoee e vio i yie/ p pi ove oe k Moeove e poem of e ofomy ffeee f pepio ve o leh kepopee m o e oiee iy ofe he p o ohe eoe e oeo fo eqe mepoe

2 Garmet eg outesie le eveie ehie ee h ee

emeo e i me yei poeepli iol ye eqe ee ye ie o i fi e pio o memfe o oie ee ppee heooy o e mehie i h o eexe ee e fio look ppel omfoeee y he mehe ee le mey ep I J me yei of ove fioo pepo y of fi eee y el vey o he me mfe he ei of o poe ok.

he e of e el eqe o yei fiihi o me ompee he poePeeme of kie f ie o i peexe oo foloe y elxe yi e ei vey o me mfe efiiely ve of o le ime of o 2 eek e y o epo o poi of le fee fook epehme h ym poe eveh m e he o of oo me ye i o ove ie fi ell mlompo e opoi ove e pe 1 3 . o fllyfhioe oo meye i hly iffee fom e fo

mompo e me o kieme ye peee y me p o pepo Gme pe oie il e o emie y fh ey e poe ope h ph imep o e k e i i e e hioely e me o 56 ee fom-3 eek e po oe

3 Garme t e g Tec huesrocesses olve ye ehiqe ye i evely

e o hloie hyoo e p i-hlooehyee he fom of emlo o

olve o ve o y me m o ymll qie of e eei yei poe ly o

o fom-yei meo eveopefo ye liqo o lo 2 i fom

ff

5 (, e mem fo ye pp o meo hiy fom eee e e opove ee fom fom lo qie of ei he mhie e oe yeff eppe vey lo lqo o empee i eie o imp fxio eme im oome eee p/fix yem eile y o heye poee fo vio ype of me ho ee oe 1 75

4 Garmet eg Machereshe oo me yei e ffee hoh

eie iol ie-ple me o oymmhie

4 1 Paddle Dyeing Machne

e ie-ple me hee loiio of oh lqo me i le vy me of o pe hee mhe hveeively lo poviy e o i flliei ool i ivi ie o loele ime eqeme of hhe lqo io ofie lio evele 7 . Oe of emi limiio of ple ye mhie i lk ofooli filie of ye h hih oveme i-ple ye me fe eexe eo e fe oom 7 28 . Compleelyeloe ovehe pe mie eeyeveope oi of hoiol yil veel oo lo he op ie ool peexei h eh of me plel o ohe xi of e veel Pefoe loe emipe e ie ee pefoe f e oom i o fee ih i pmp hh o liqo fom eo he fe oom ie i hoh he e poioe o he e ofhe me elo e iqo leve o

f 2 9 7moveme 0 oo

4 Rotry McieRoy mhe oi of hoio pefo

yle lly piioe io hee o o


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40 I N D A FI BRE TEXT RES DECEM BER 00

compartmens. rotating wth perodc reversl nside astainless steel box holding dye lquor Goods areloaded nto the cage through sliding doors n the

crcumfrence These machnes ae gentle in theircton Recent developents n hse machinesnclude ddtion o hydro extractors, renorced glassdoors, vriabl cage speed and operton on programmed automaic cycle in whch lq uor volumet me and temperatre are ul ly controll ed 6 Rcn Develpmns

Wth the advnceent o t me slowly th prt velaundry machineries paddle nd rotry dyeingmachines modied wsher extrctors belly wshershve been supplemented wth autoated ndcroprocessor controlled achines Some o theattrbutes o ideal garment dyeng machins are the

tlting mechans, high teperature dyeng capabilityand centr ugal extracto n Further controls o i ndirectheatng and coolng variable speed control watervolue control and lint ilters have also beenimplemented armen dyeng which was earler astepchild o wet processing industry has advancedinto a unque a ncorporating in it newer dsigns andeatures oe o these are: i) low liquor ratio, ii)microprocessors or improved controlling ii) heatexchangers v) int ilters v) centriugal hydroextraction (v) easy sampling vii) pocketed drumsvi ) t l t ng mechanism or esy loading andunloading x) hih teperature option x) large od

sizes xi) cushioned suspenson xi) variable drumspeed and x i ) utoatc balancing o drum'

Durng 197s developments in garment dyeingequpents were too any, vi ) sde paddlemach nes wth variable speed paddles and o variablelength; ii) smth drums conssting o a rotatingperorated dru normally with our compartents ;(iii) moded drycleaning unts or sovent dyeing;v) dyeing achines with tooidal acton developedoriginally ro the Pegg Ktype scouring and illngmachines or woollen garents Liquor s puped upnto a vessel containing garent carrier or plate and

the lquid s deected to the vessel circuerence andthen down nto chaber wth no echanicalassistance moveent being copletely dependentupon the puped action o water atest highteperature torod dyeing achines wor at liquorratio as hgh as 40: 1 to process 100 polyester ibregrments at 40C re 32 v) dyeing in oainmachinery speccally designed or sancowad lowliquor process Other developments nclded a

centrugng nd dryng operon s an nerl paro dyeing achine3 Howeve. dvn o quouslow liquor dyeing machnry wth comprosn

lquor ratos o appoxmaely I nd xbl ty odye grments rom ll bres led to obsolescnc othis type o machinery and vi ) centrugng chinfor rotary dyeing wth ntegrl centruging and shorprocessng ties lends tsel ally t he qctuaround objectves in today s mret pl ce

Rotry dyeng mchne hs evolved ou thconsiderable odictions evry tm in moesophstcated and o mode version with thhghlghtng etues v (i) opcl bsetconguration in which selectve poces or bsetsare available whose congurton aecs the degreeand type o echani cal action ppl ed to garment i )an extenal circulation which ensues mantenance ounorm teperature throughout the machin essentalor crtical bres, l e acrylics t nvolves circultono dye liquor hrough a lter to ad lquorgoodsinterchange hus compensatng or reduced agitatonwhen running the cylinder t very low speeds hsprotects th e garment surce w h Ie al low ng goodpenetration nto seams and thick ares An addtonalilter unt s used or reoving loose ibres and lntsto prevent redeposti on o the same on garent i )high speed centriuge syste ensurng that themosture content is reduced to nimu prior todryng operation wthout the need or addionlhandlng and centriugng n separate equpments indyeing stage Machnes incorporated wth centrugeaction have an added advantage o eicient rnsng invery short tie v) sophsticted heating nd coolingwith various ens o accomplishng eg directstea inecton into the dye lquor and addon owater direcly to the mchine sutable for spledyeing processes; ndirect heatng nd coolng bypassng stea and water alteatly through closdcoils a the bse o machne indrect heatng bymeans o a stea acket around the body o themachne cooli ng is done either directly or ndrectly )and us o an exteal het exchnger or ndirctheating and cooling Heat exchangers may wor wthstea, oil or high temperature hot wter Coolng maybe done by direct addition o watr or ndrectlythrough heat exchangers v) lexible cotrol systsurge the use o automatcally regulated unctionsprocess parmeters croprocessor contol oncentriuging mchines ensuring use o VDUs owmeasurement Technology requires dvent o newer


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CHKRRTY e a: GRMN DYENG 47

ppeli iclig cel coo oom wiomic iio o e cemcl om ce ipeig e vi pecil mpig po

wic e i complee ipecio o gmeig poce wio ecig liqo evelpecio o eie gme om e c o mpig ge ee pope eme o eem peeio egee o miig piclppece vii e oig/loig i oieog ilig mecim i wic e gme o e loe iecl om ovee eegeme oe wio m ligio coveo em viii vie clie peeig e ccle gig om om pm o 3p i low gee giio ciic ge ieig poce e giio o poec gme

coiio mimize qli i igempee poceig o gme eig gmeeig empee p o 1 5 C e liqoecove wee pe e liqo i ee o oge k o epoceig

5 Slcon of D for Coon Garmn Dngepeig po e e o gme e iec

ie ecive v lp e e e iece peciic cle A B wic ve imilempee o mimm eio e elece oee eve pplicio ige epociil i A eig empee o 95C elecole i e oilece ece e ie Aiio o cgo levellig ge i vile o opimm el Keppicio pmee o iec e ivove e

4 e o g eeme

peci eqieme o gme eig vi i gooleve eig popeie ii ige migio iio popeie o i em peeio iii iii o o/ome poce veeceie e e o ecive e ieqieme i me picll wi le ecivemooclooiil e wi ei ig empeeppicio o opimie iio migio owecivi o opimize leve eig ee oomio ig lie iio poe o o e kli iio e eil o gmeeig wi ie ecive e ve ee iceeewee

ve imiio we evee coiee i eqie Ho pigmeio eciqe igee empoe i wic e e i ipee iolle pigme e lklie coiio 60-80C Ae levelig peio e i ece o

leco om peeio io coo ie iece. Ae loo iig pH ec e ioiize ck o ioe om o cieve ig we

e Gme ig c e impove cioic oee eeme p e epee o e ge vig

goo o ecele w ig e eiveow co compe o oe eig em B ck meim o ev e o ow e gee e mo commol e ; e ge oeicle ome i ig coo wel owliqi lp e cle oel iqi e ewic oe ecele peomce ecoom ie eig ee mc vgo ie ecive e ee ve owe co oe cce ee coo covege mc e

wi compe e popeie oioi B g e ecig ge eql ig ecio lpie i llow li pocee wio e cool eee ooe liqi Peece o 20 ppm io e e iel e peece o Mglo poe me polem eqeeig ge c oz lo 0 c ovecome polem owek eig poo cockig ek ce e mel comiio

Pgnt Dng of Coton Garmntog pigme e e piig p

eig ice og ime e eig i eceevelopm Beig o-i ve i eie e o i pigme o ie ce w elieve e e eig wi pigmemig o e pcicl poie o oweio poo evele Developme oile iliie le o e icio oece i o i e o pigme peeigeie o e eig wi pigme Eeig c e cie o i e oowig eqece(i pewig ii peeme iii eio voe wig opio v io viemoeme

mpiie comi e o e emoveom gme og pe-wig o ee 38 A

I

e g e c p 0 eg eqece

i peeme wee coo i pee wi cioic compo o eveop ii o pigm eqe pke iom opio o ecioic ge i eei o i ppoe igpeeme ioic cio i eveope eweepeee ie ggege pigme picle


5/9

2 DIAN F E TEXT ES DECEME 005

Eu n u n pn pn n n pv npp n p pp

v p n pp u u pnn n ng u u n fi n u n n nd n vpu n n ng pu n p v n !

7 A- Tqu u n n p

pnn p un vn up /n/ppunun gnu

n u u un gn ng ng v u pp n p nun u p n h fpu n n pnn u v u n ung gn u Ap pvn n u pnv nn 8160 p h n M pn u np pnn U n n phph / gv pnn pnn n hug

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8 Nvl Eff G yn h vn n ng n ng

n v n un h u h-u h n h u nn n}8 zng gn pp n v n n gn

h 4 4?u g n n 0 0 gn -u pv gn n ung nng n n nng4 Sn

h n n v n n ng n nn n 4 hn nhnu ng unuu ung ff,h gn n u h hn u pngn-pgn p p n hn n uu ph h n g n v n hn n u

pnn y Vu hnu gn g pzn p

nz hng n vu nnung n v np4

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9 k pn n F n S es

ng hg un n"

9 Wln Gmn yn gn n n u

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nn hn unvn g ung pn n n h u v u n n n n h n M pn v n h pp u n n h p 0

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n pv n u n vng n u n n-ngn Mpn Tngn n WA n n ngn p p unhngn ng n n v ung

' 66 A + 1 ' ng n l-e g gn uuu n n n n Su n h nun /L


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AKRABORTY et a GARME D YEG

n u pv unn un n n n un n h 6

n vpn n GRB n hn-n nh v nnu h n hn hn n h n ppn n u hn nn S v hv n nu un n n

n u n

1 0 lyt G met yeiP h pp n

n n n n u up u n P h n p n m n h u nnun nun hn p pv n pp 6phnv v v u nn nh u n u h n p

R n 0 un pppn n u v !

1 1 Qlty CtlB n p n n

pn upn pn pn nh u nnn hu hpn n pun u n n pv p n un nn u n u pn upnh nn n ppn hn hnppp u n n n P u p n nn P nh n pn upn h v h h un n nn npu n u ppp pn

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1 Sams, Elasicizd Aas Waist Bands and cush u l n u

n pp u ppnn u n hv n P h p ppn hh pu h u n unpnn n unnn h n u un un n pn

n n u pu nnb f I '

. R 7 'e ore coo1g l r Ixatlon ' -.

11 2 hink BhaviEv unvn n n h

n n vn pun n p n n h pn vn p h n nun vu n p n hu n n

1 1.3 haf Mas/ass

vp pu n n u n n un n h n pu u n pn

pn u u n u n npn nnn un npvn v u p vnv n n u

1 14 ccssris

Pun h p n u un n u u n pvn n Gn u v n pn n n un hn v n n u h nnn h lu un unu p un nn n u nu u nn n h upn n un n u n uun n p R n n nuu puhn u h n h h n v h n vnNu u v n pn n pp n n pun n zn n hn un h u hv n h h npn n nn 810 u n nnn n n n vu h n n pvn nnu n hl n n n hnn h n n v n h n

115 wing Thads

Se wing threads mus be endowed with des irabeproperies, ike sreng and ineness to produceaneatseam and as for e wo le life o e produ{72


7/9

474 NDAN J F BR E TEXT RES DEEM BE R 2005

neeed otton tead used n anufatun ofotton aents odues a sold dyed nonsuoussea Polyeste teads uosely enane te effets

n te seas due to te dye utake esstane andeeed otton teads nease te dye utakeesultn n dake aeaane n sade. Fo ottonseed aens eant fo dyen t s not ossble tostof detly fo onentonally sunolyeste o oesun teads to 00% otton teadsand etan te sae sea aatests Equalentsea stents an be obtaned usn eae ottonteads la deees of elastty n sea an beobtaned by neasn stt densty ea ukeesultn fo tead snkae dun aentdyen an be aoded by slake sttes on lokstt and a n stt oeatons

eleton of be fo te eaaton of teaddeends on tye of fab to be seed Geneally aoon seleton s ade fo te tead used fofab eaaton and sen Hoee ts salable anly fo tton as se n teads adeof ote fbes do no ossess afn ty fo otton dyess unauably kes te ost of aentanufatued and te oduton seed.

6 Foeign ubaneFoeost obete of effent aent dyen s

ts alue addton. s obete ates need foadataton of eente easues to nde alue lossof te atle Poeton of aents fo stans dueto ols eases and ote lubatn aents s tustal . Ote foen substanes l ke s zes and esn sontann addtes su as elastoes and oleelln aents oud also denate te aeaane

of aent .

7 IntelinngPuose of ntelnns s to stablze and enane

te aeal of oute fab Wt ostdyed aentsean seal oetes as to be nted nto tentelnns to ensue bette erfane ealoetes neted by te ntelnns nludeequalent dye utake by t as tat of oute fab.

Moeoe te adese bondn te oute fab tote ntelnn ust ean ntat dun and aftedyen oeaton Afteat of dye sorpton souldnot be adese on olouaton 8 ae Labeing

Auentaton of fastness roetes of dyedaents s essental fo ustoes deand. ajoattbutes to be taken nto onsdeaton ae: )

densonal stablty as fastness and ubfastness o eet tese aaetes effetely aelabeln s aeed sutably tells te ustoes

eautons to be adoted le l eann te aentese ae labels ae ebellsd t sefnstutons t eset to etod of asnblean dyn onn and sutablty o dyleann Vaous ae labeln systes used aeAean Eu oean t s and Canadan

Qualty leel n aent dyen an be auentedtou oe fab and dyestuff seleton to su ete os of oessn oe sn effetetann of te staffs to ensue skllful aentandln ood oan of dyen equentsand nnoatons to n ease oduton

1 2 Rnt Avnmnts n Gmnt ynSts

Cuent esuene n aent dyen s obablybeause of te delty of te atle to eentlyeoled qualty ontol oesses to adudate teoles7 Cetanly te eot of nda n eady adeaent s beon a oe allenn ob t teassae of te s s efleted due to eesonaytend n Aean and Euoean aketsestutun of te old eonoy dsnteaton ofoet non eeene of Cna as a o oldoe dstubanes on ntenal and nteatonalfont neasn tade baes on onsue

aaeness d qualty standads and eentultbe aeeent folloed by te abdaton ofquota' syste fo Januay 2005 O-000 qualtyassuane etfaton and ed lsted eals aeto ne onets equed fo enaneent ofseeablty and qualty of odut Red lstedeals ae azadous ollutants aeauulated on fbe dun aous oessnases.

13 A vnts f Gmnt ynee ae seeal neent adantaes n aent

dyen z ) andln of salle lots eonoally) unlted seleton of olou dun dyen tusdyen to ode alost nstantaneously ) a sefodut an be dyed n any nube of sades teebyneasn odutty ) dstess look tnkles ) full andle beause of snkae dundyen ) quk tunaound at te etale' s ounteand ) abty to esond qukly to te anes nte olou taste of te fastdous and fkleustoes


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CAABOT e : GAMT DIG 75

ufn f nh gmn nn f gmn ng vng M mnn n gmn ng

( n hm vng nun h f n hm ( um n h f nu g h n mn -u n ( , 7 7p n u

14 b f Gt yrM f h gmn v h gmn

u n n fm vu p hhh ggv n m ( gmn u fm m hn n f h n hffn hv n ffnl (gmn h vn n n n gh

( gmn h gg lh h hn n gh nv fnh g fn n h n

h gmn n mu hugh nn n

u h m mn n hu n pn n vzng n mn uun hng Vn nn u n nnn f fngmn z f ng n ng

h m mmn m u n gmnng ng ng f g ung ng f ng n m v ng n

uun png ( v hng ngn n v ung n mng fg ( nu lng n ( v nuffnng (v n nnng nnpun (v unnl ng unm (v unn f (v nn-mnnn f f n ( nu pun n f u

5 Lttn h p f h vng h n

mn f gmn ng vn hugh m ugh h mn f gmn ng n

h n m h u ng u nn u u h m Th m nf gmn ng n umz (mp ng ( hgh ng f nn ( hgh ng 7

16 ClCmm gmn ng lvl

n f f ng T h n

h n g m gmn nn n n m h g mgmn mnufu gu hng

gmn ng f fu ung h nn h vng f gmn ng n fl h f hngng m un nfl n n uunf h fnh n zMv gmn ng u n pv jn umn f nvnm nvmn n h hn fung fn n n ff hu h hnng f h p f gmn ng hfuh vmn fm h hng n fv h fhn n hv m m nmn n Th n f u gm f 24

n u n v f nn T Cmn un h m nffngf n h In 24 h h hvfn ufm h n f mgnCn n vn f gmn hv vvh gg u n nm pnhu h ul n p nnz f n nh u f

RfrI ouse A Dyet Rep, 80 ( 5) ( 1 9 9 1 ) 8 2 rame F Meand !be 70 (7 ( 1 989 2253 Bon J A Collishaw P S & elly T D R og oo 8

( 98 8 ) 3 7

4 ausch & Comtsa P A Dye! Rp. 7 6 (5 ) 9 8 7) 3 1 5 Techne A & olywoo A ! Rp, 76 7) ( 987

38

6 Gordon S Proding Confrn ament Ding(oth Caolina State Univ aleigh USA) 1987

7 ildn J lit Text Bull Deing Pntng Fnhng 34 4( 988 30.

8 amat S & Mnezes W oorge. ( 1 99 3) 4 9 Scott Dye 1 7 1 ( 1 ) ( 1 9 86 3

1 0 Gore D C e! h oor. 27 (3 ) ( 995) 3 7 1 1 Schel Poeedng Conferenc on a n! Din

(orth Caolina State U niv alegh USA 1987 2 Colli shaw P S & Glov B Proedng Spoi (Txie

Federation of Canada Sherbrooke 1986 3 Coshaw P S & Cox P 1 So oo 102 ( 1 0)

( 986) 298.

1 4 Brooks A G Hoy Trd 1 8 ( 1 9 7 ) I 9 1 5 Lste G 1 So Dyer Colo 8 8 ( 1 9 7 2 ) 91 6 Paidge W Rv Pog oo, 6 ( 1975 56 7 ob E. Meand tilbe. 74 (6) ( 993 564 8 arper J & amber A Am D! Rp. 7 7 ( 1 98 8 13 . 9 einhardt M & Blanchard J A Ds! Rep. 7 7 (

( 988 29

20 Brisse L & McAulay T A Dy! Rp 7 7 7 ) 198 8 282 ley S W & Jones C Am Dyet Rep 7 7 ( 0 ) 98 8) 23 22 Dixon M W, Am Dye! Rep. 78 5) ( 989) 24


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