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By Emily Peery

GardeningBasics

A step-by-stepguide from

seeds to harvest

Brought to you by http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net Please do not photocopy or redistribute. Gardening Basics, second edition © Emily Peery 2013 page 1

My goal in writing Gardening Basics is to help new gardeners have success with in their vegetable gardens. I have created a step by step guide to walk you through the basics. I have found that square foot gardening—using raised beds and a soil mix—makes gardening easy! However, you can apply all of the information in this e-book to other methods as well. The first section teaches you how to design, plan, build, and plant your garden. It includes step by step instructions and checklists to make it easy. In the appendix you will find a Plant Spacing chart, a Companion Planting chart, details about watering methods, and a section with recipes. This e-book is intended to be used along with my other e-books: Planting by Color and Vegetable Reference Guide. Planting by Color gives you a week by week schedule of when to start seeds, transplant, and plant seeds directly in the garden. The Vegetable Reference Guide provides details about each vegetable, including when to plant, fertilize, and harvest. All of this information is available on my website for free. Please respect my hard work by limiting use of this e-book to one person. I’d ask that you refrain for copying, emailing, or distributing this information without written consent. Happy gardening!


The Gardening Method There are many ways to garden, and all can be successful. Because this book is geared toward beginners, I am recommending a gardening method that is going to be the least amount of work and bring the most amount of success. I use a modified version of the Square Foot Gardening method as developed by Mel Bartholemew (All New Square Foot Gardening, first revised edition, (Franklin: Cool Springs Press, 2006)). My strategy includes:

Raised garden beds o no wider than 2 feet from each edge or aisle, maximum 4’ wide o at least 10-12” high

Soil mix—a combination of peat moss, vermiculite, and compost Garden beds divided into 1 foot sections, planting one type of vegetable per square

Why not just garden in a patch of dirt in your yard? Of course you can, but here are the advantages of using my method over traditional gardening: Soil—your success is hugely dependent on good soil. Depending on your location, it might

be rocky, sandy or clay and the pH might be wrong. By creating your own soil you avoid having to test, amend, and adjust your soil.

Labor—traditional gardening requires so much physical labor. This method avoids all hoeing, trenching, hilling, and tilling.

Weeds—let’s face it, the thing we all hate about gardening is weeds, and with traditional gardening there’s no avoiding them. I can honestly say that I spend less than 1% of my time in the garden weeding.

Space—look at a traditional garden bed and notice how much space is taken up by rows. Rows are necessary—you have to have a way to walk around and access your plants. Not so with this method! By limiting the width of our garden beds, every plant is within an arm’s reach. Eliminating the rows allows us to plant more vegetables in less space.


Design Your Garden Bed Location Walk around your house and look for places you might put your garden. Consider the following:

Sunlight—most plants need 8-12 hours of direct sunlight every day. Water—plants need water, and you don’t want to cart it around your yard. Be sure your

garden will be reachable by hose, or near existing irrigation. Space—the garden will be no more than 4 feet deep, but can be as long as you choose. Proximity—put your garden beds somewhere you will walk by and see often.

Size Bigger is not always better.

For the first year I suggest you build and plant no more than 32 to 48 square feet.

Shape The ideal is a long rectangle with three available sides.

4x8 or 4x12 with only one short side against a fence. If you have to build along a fence, choose one of these two options:

2x16 with one long side against the fence several 4x4 boxes along the fence with at least 3 feet between each box)


Draw the outline of your garden plan. Indicate North, South, East and West. Draw in any fences. Print additional pages if necessary.


Choose What to Grow Choose vegetables based on what your family will enjoy.

Easy to grow for first time gardeners!

Vegetables and Herbs

Artichokes* Cucumbers Peas Asparagus* Dill Peppers Basil Eggplant Potatoes Beans, bush Green Onions Pumpkins Beans, pole Kale Radishes Beets Kohlrabi Rhubarb* Broccoli Leeks Rosemary Brussels Sprouts Lettuce, leaf Rutabagas Cabbage Lettuce, head Spinach Cantaloupe Melons Summer squash Carrots Mustard Sweet Potatoes Cauliflower** Okra Swiss chard Celery** Onions, green Thyme Chives Onions, storage Tomatoes Cilantro Oregano Turnips Collard greens Parsley Watermelon Corn Parsnips Winter squash

* Not suitable for square foot gardens ** Particularly difficult to grow


Create Your Garden Layout Now you need to add the vegetables to your garden plan. I suggest you start by planting one square per vegetable. If you have room, plant two squares of a vegetable you enjoy.

Refer to the Plant Spacing chart (appendix A) to see how many plants will fit in each square. Most vegetables will fit one or more per square. A few vegetables, like tomatoes and zucchini, take several squares. Refer to the Companion Planting chart (Appendix B). Some plants grow better next to others. Look up your vegetable and make sure it’s “neighbors” are not listed in red in the column beneath, which means it’s not a good companion. Provide support: Some plants like peas, cucumbers, and vine tomatoes will need a trellis. It’s best to put your trellis in a place where you can get to both sides of it, and where it won’t block your access to other plants. Consider size, sunlight, and accessibility. Plant taller vegetables to the North so they do not shade the shorter plants. Plant vegetables that harvest only at the end of the season (like onions) toward the back, and others that harvest all summer in front (ie: herbs, beans, lettuce).


Build Your Garden Beds Purchase Beds If you can afford to do so, I suggest you purchase your garden beds. This is the easiest and fastest way to get your garden up and running.

The Square Foot Gardening foundation sells wood (6”/15 cm tall) Home Gardens To Go sells vinyl garden beds (6”/15 cm or 12”/30 cm tall) Easy Garden Box is made of metal and vinyl (15”/38 cm tall) Watch for kits at Costco, Sam’s Club, Home Depot, and Lowes

Wherever you choose to purchase them, consider getting beds that are at least 12”/30 cm high. The traditional Square Foot Garden method suggests only 6”/15 cm but I have not found that to be enough, especially when planting root vegetables like potatoes.


Build Beds If you or someone you love is handy, you can save a lot of money by building your garden boxes. While it is possible to build your own vinyl garden beds, it is not an easy project, so I am only going to include instructions for wood garden beds. WHAT YOU NEED

2x12 boards o Determine how many and the lengths of the boards you need. They come in lengths

of 8’, 10’, 12”, and 16’. o You want to be sure each board is not bent or warped. The shorter the board, the

easier to find a straight board. o The store will usually cut the boards to the lengths you need, especially if it’s just a

few cuts. o Most home improvement stores carry several types of wood. Choose one that fits

your budget, but avoid treated wood. 12 decking screws per garden box—they should be at least 4-5” long Box of 1-2” decking screws Nylon string (kite string works well) Drill Weed mat—enough to cover the bottom of your box. This typically comes in 4” wide

rolls. A friend to help you put it together.

WHAT TO DO

Prepare the site o Remove any grass, shrubs, flowers, etc. o Level the ground. It’s okay if the box slants downhill—just make sure there are no

bumps or rocks sticking up that will prevent it from lying flat. Build the box.


o Work on a flat, hard surface like a patio or driveway. o Lay out your boards in the shape of your garden bed. o Overlap the edges so that no board is on the outside on both ends. o Drill 3 pilot holes in each board. o Attach the boards together with screws.

Put the box in place o Lay down the box o Put weed mat in the bottom—I like to use a little extra so it comes up the insides of

the box. It keeps the soil from spilling out of the bottom. o Divide the box into square feet and screw the short decking screws in, leaving the

head 1/8” above the box (you will use this to tie string to). o Start at one end, tie the nylon string to a screw, and weave it around the box until

the box is divided into 1 foot squares (see picture below).


Soil The problem with dirt The soil you find in your backyard may be wonderful. But it also might be too acidic/alkaline, sandy, clay, rocky, etc. It is also sure to contain tons of weeds. Instead, make your own soil with three ingredients: peat moss, vermiculite, and compost I like to use a ratio of 1:1:2.

The Ingredients PEAT MOSS Peat moss typically comes in large bales that are just shy of 4 cubic feet, but that will expand to at least 6 cubic feet once opened. This can be purchased at most home and garden stores, nurseries, or even the gardening section of the grocery store. You can also substitute coconut coir. VERMICULITE Vermiculite is made of rock, but it’s light and fluffy like popcorn. It’s “cousin” perlite is found in potting soils (the white stuff). Vermiculite keeps your soil from getting bogged down, but unlike perlite, vermiculite retains moisture. It can be difficult to find, but it’s great if you can hunt it down. Call around to find out who carries it. I have found it at the local farming co-op store. Don’t bother with small bags of vermiculite—you need 4 cubic foot bags only. If you can’t find it, substitute with perlite or skip it altogether! COMPOST It’s important to purchase as many types of compost as you can. Avoid steer compost, since the cattle are fed a lot of salt, and this is not good for your garden. These usually come in 1 cubic foot bags.


Determine the quantity you need If you built or purchased boxes that are 12” tall, this calculation is simple. You multiply the length x width x depth of your garden, in feet. Then, divide by 4. Copy that number to all highlighted areas.

_______ length X _______ width X _______ depth = _______ 4 = ______ cubic feet

Example: 8’ length x 4’ width x 1’ depth = 32 cubic feet 4 = 8 cubic feet ______ Peat moss 8 cu ft Peat moss ______ Vermiculite 8 cu ft Vermiculite ______ x 2 = _____ Compost 16 cu ft Compost

Putting it all together You may want to use a dust mask when doing this step. The best way I’ve found of mixing soil is in the box. Pour some compost in the box (maybe 2 bags) and then add some vermiculite. Use a pitch fork or metal rake to mix it up. Now add half a bale of peat moss, and mix it up again. I always start with a rake, but end up using my hands and arms, especially if the peat moss is clumpy. Keep adding and mixing until you’ve used all your ingredients. If you have some extra, use your hose to mist down the soil, let it settle a little, and then add the rest.

Other options I’ve talked to several people who garden in pure compost, and report great success. The peat moss and vermiculite are going to help retain water and provide good drainage. If you garden in 100% compost, be careful not to over-water. You can purchase garden box grow mixes in my area—check your local nurseries.


Watering Your Garden Choose a method to water your garden based on your situation and resources. For a detailed list of pros and cons, see Appendix C.

Bucket Method The most basic way to water your garden is with a 5 gallon bucket and a large plastic cup of water. Put your bucket near the garden, fill it with a hose, and then pour a cup of water on each plant or square. If the plant starts wilting, give it more water.

Hose Method Another option is to water your garden with a hose.

Mooch the Sprinklers Method If you have automatic irrigation for your lawn, you can just adjust the sprinkler heads to overshoot and water your garden.

Soaker Hose You can purchase a soaker hose, which just oozes out water slowly, and wind it around your garden. You have to turn it off and on every day. It is possible to add a timer to your soaker hose, and then make it automatic.


PVC and Sprinkler Heads with a Hose If you lean toward handy, you can put together an above ground sprinkler system with PVC and sprinkler heads that will attach to your hose. You might even be able to add a timer to automate it.

Add Sprinkler Head to Irrigation System If you have an automatic irrigation system, you can add a few pop-up sprinkler heads right next to or in your garden. You would do this if you don’t have a valve you can dedicate solely to the garden.

Low Pressure Drip Irrigation System If you have a valve to dedicate to watering just your garden, this is the most ideal solution. If you have experience building or repairing irrigation systems, go for it! Otherwise, you can hire someone to build and install this for you.


Planting Your Garden With your garden built, your soil mixed, and your watering method planned, you are ready to plant!

When to Plant Now you can go buy seeds and plants, and put it all in, right? Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. Plants can be divided into several categories based on light requirements, sensitivity to frost, and ideal temperature for growing. These factors determine the best time to plant. HARDY Hardy plants require less light (3-6 hours of direct sun), can tolerate hard frost, and grow best in cool weather. Many will die, bolt, or go to seed when temperatures rise. These should be planted early in the spring, as soon as the soil can be worked, or late in the summer to be harvested in the fall. In areas with short periods of frost, hardy vegetables can be grown all winter. SEMI-HARDY Semi-hardy plants require more sun (6 hours), tolerate light frost, and grow best in cool weather. These should be planted in the spring, about 3-5 weeks before the frost date. They can also be planted late in the summer for a fall harvest, or during the winter in temperate regions without any frost. TENDER Tender plants need more sun (8 hours), do not tolerate frost, and grow best in warm (not hot) weather. Any frost will kill them, so they should be planted on or after the frost date.


VERY TENDER Very tender vegetables require a lot of sunlight (8-12 hours), will be stunted by cold temperatures, and grow best in very warm weather. They should be planted after all danger of frost has passed, about 3 weeks after the frost date. These vegetables have long growing seasons (they take a long time to go from seed to harvest), so you want to wait until the weather is warm enough for them, but you can’t wait too long or you will not have a chance to harvest before hot or cold temperatures set in. For this reason you should use transplants, not seeds. Here is a chart that lists many vegetables and their category.

Hardy Semi-Hardy Tender Very Tender Asparagus Broccoli Cabbage Kale Kohlrabi Leeks Onions Peas Radish Rhubarb Spinach Turnip

Beets Carrots Cauliflower Endive Lettuce Mustard Parsley Parsnip Potatoes Swiss Chard Spinach

Celery Cucumber Dry Beans Snap Beans Summer Squash Sweet Corn Zucchini

Cantaloupe/Melons Eggplant Lima Beans Okra Peppers Pumpkins Tomatoes Winter Squash


Your Custom Schedule Great news! I have developed an easy way to know exactly when to plant your garden.

Refer to your Planting By Color e-book to see when you should plant the vegetables you’ve chosen to grow.

You can also sign up for weekly email reminders on my website: http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/newsletter-signup

Plants vs. Seeds It’s time to plant your garden—do you buy plants or packets of seeds? It depends! Some plants can only be grown from seeds because they don’t transplant well—vegetables like carrots, potatoes, corn, and beets. Other plants, like tomatoes and peppers, have to be purchased as plants because the growing season is too short to start them as seeds. More advanced gardeners can start their own seeds indoors, but I don’t recommend it for beginners. Finally, there are vegetables that can be grown from either plants or seeds. In this case, let your budget decide! Seeds are usually cheaper, but plants may produce a harvest a little sooner. You can find recommendations for each vegetable in the Vegetable Gardening Guide e-book or on my website http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/vegetables.


Planting seeds Planting in your garden is simple. You will need the following:

Garden plan Seeds Pencil Snack or sandwich bags

Review your garden plan and locate the square that you will plant in. Look on the vegetable chart to see how many plants fit in each square. If you are growing something not listed, follow these guidelines for plant spacing found on the seed packet:

12” apart—1 per square 6” apart—4 per square 4” apart—9 per square 3” apart (or less)—16 per square

Poke holes about 1” deep with your pencil. Drop 2 or 3 seeds into each hole then smooth the soil over. Gently water each square you just planted (be careful not to wash away the seeds!). Put the rest of your seed packet into a small Ziploc bag and store in a cool, dry place. You may want to make a note on your garden plan of the date you planted the seeds. If they have not germinated in one to two weeks (check the back of the seed packet), replant that spot.


How to Transplant Transplant means to plant a plant, usually one that you bought at the store. BUYING PLANTS You can purchase plants at many home and garden stores, a nursery, or even the garden section of the grocery store. When buying plants look for short, stocky stems, no fruit or flowers, and healthy looking leaves (no brown spots or wilting). If you can, buy plants that are disease resistant. Read the labels to choose between varieties. Whatever you do, don’t forget to write down what you planted. There’s nothing worse than having great success without any idea of how to repeat it next year! HARDENING OFF Don’t just take your new little plants home and plop them in the garden. Most likely they’ve been growing in a greenhouse or some other protected place. It’s important to get them used to the sun and wind before leaving them outside day and night. Start off by taking the plants outside and putting them in the shade for an hour or two. Each day for about a week, increase the time, and the amount of direct sunlight. Now you’re ready to plant! TRANSPLANTING You will need the following:

Garden plan Plants Trowel Scissors


If you can, transplant on a shady day. Take your plant to the garden and identify which square it will go in. Dig out a hole slightly larger than the size of the pot. Carefully remove the pot from the plant and examine the roots. If they are going around in circles or you see a mass of white roots in the shape of the pot, they are “root bound” and need to be trimmed. Take your scissors and cut off the bottom roots. This will actually improve the growth of the plant. Place the plant in the hole and fill any space with soil, and gently pat it down. Now water the plant with one or two cups of water—this removes the air trapped in the soil which will kill the plant.

Caring For Your Garden It’s best if you go visit your garden every day. At first it’s a little boring, but once those plants push through the soil it’s amazing to watch them grow. It’s important to keep an eye on things so you notice if something is diseased, dying, or infected with pests. If you catch it early enough, most problems can be fixed. This method of gardening is virtually weed-free, so you can spend your time admiring, harvesting, and eating the fruits of your labors. For intermediate and advanced gardening topics, like fertilizing, starting seeds indoors, building irrigation, and more visit my website at http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net. Happy gardening!

Appendix A Plant Spacing


Plant Spacing # Per Square Plant Spacing # Per Square Basil 6” 15 cm 4 Mustard greens 3” 7.5cm 16 Beans, bush 4” 10 cm 9 Okra 12” 30 cm 1 Beans, pole 8 Onions, storage 4” 10 cm 9 Beets 4” 10 cm 9 Onions, green 3” 7.5cm 16 Carrots 3” 7.5cm 16 Oregano 12” 30 cm 1 Celery 12” 30 cm 1 Parsley 12” 30 cm 1 Chives 4” 10 cm 9 Parsnips 3” 7.5cm 16 Cilantro 4” 10 cm 9 Peas 8 Collard greens 12” 30 cm 1 Peppers 12” 30 cm 1 Corn 8” 20 cm 3 Potatoes 12” 30 cm 1 Cucumbers 2 Radishes 3” 7.5cm 16 Dill 12” 30 cm 1 Rosemary 12” 30 cm 1 Eggplant 12” 30 cm 1 Rutabagas 6” 15 cm 4 Kale 12” 30 cm 1 Spinach 4” 10 cm 9 Kohlrabi 6” 15 cm 4 Sweet potatoes 12” 30 cm 1 Leeks 4” 10 cm 9 Swiss Chard 6” 15 cm 4 Lettuce, leaf 6” 15 cm 4 Turnips 4” 10 cm 9 Lettuce, head 12” 30 cm 1

Plant Spacing # of Squares Plant Spacing # of Squares

Artichoke 48” 122 cm not suitable for SFG Pumpkins 24” 61cm 2 with trellis Asparagus 12” 30 cm not suitable for SFG Rhubarb 36” 91cm not suitable for SFG Broccoli 18” 46 cm 4 per 9 squares Summer squash 24” 61cm 4 with cage Brussels sprouts 18” 46 cm 4 per 9 squares Tomatoes 12” 30 cm

24” 61cm 36” 91cm

1 with stakes 4 with cage

9 with no support Cabbage 18” 46 cm 4 per 9 squares Watermelon 24” 61cm 2 with trellis Cantaloupe 24” 61cm 2 with trellis Winter Squash 24” 61cm 2 with trellis Cauliflower 18” 46 cm 4 per 9 squares Zucchini 24” 61cm 4 with cage

Appendix B Companion Planting


Companion planting is the practice of growing plants next to each other for mutual benefit. This can happen because a companion attracts beneficial or repels harmful insects, or because the natural chemicals found in or produced by a plant improve flavor or growth.

Green=best Yellow=good Red=bad

Asparagus Beet Beans, Bush Beans, Pole Cabbage family

Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus Beet Beet Beet Beet Beet Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole

Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Celery Celery Celery Celery Celery Corn Corn Corn Corn Corn Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Onion Onion Onion Onion Onion

Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Peas Peas Peas Peas Peas Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Radish Radish Radish Radish Radish

Spinach Spinach Spinach Spinach Spinach

Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes




Carrots Celery Corn Cucumber Eggplant

Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus Asparagus

Beet Beet Beet Beet Beet Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush

Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family

Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots

Celery Celery Celery Celery Celery

Corn Corn Corn Corn Corn

Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic

Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Onion Onion Onion Onion Onion Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley

Peas Peas Peas Peas Peas Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Radish Radish Radish Radish Radish






Garlic Lettuce Onion Parsley Peas


Beet Beet Beet Beet Beet Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family

Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Celery Celery Celery Celery Celery Corn Corn Corn Corn Corn Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic

Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce

Onion Onion Onion Onion Onion

Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Peas Peas Peas Peas Peas Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers

Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes

Radish Radish Radish Radish Radish Spinach Spinach Spinach Spinach Spinach Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Squash, Winter Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes




Peppers Potatoes Radish Spinach Squash, Summer


Beet Beet Beet Beet Beet Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush Beans, Bush

Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Beans, Pole

Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family Cabbage family

Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots Carrots

Celery Celery Celery Celery Celery

Corn Corn Corn Corn Corn Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Cucumber Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Eggplant Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic Garlic

Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce Lettuce

Onion Onion Onion Onion Onion Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley Parsley

Peas Peas Peas Peas Peas

Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers Peppers

Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes

Radish Radish Radish Radish Radish






Squash, Winter Tomatoes

Asparagus Asparagus

Beet Beet

Beans, Bush Beans, Bush

Beans, Pole Beans, Pole

Cabbage family Cabbage family

Carrots Carrots

Celery Celery

Corn Corn

Cucumber Cucumber

Eggplant Eggplant

Garlic Garlic

Lettuce Lettuce

Onion Onion

Parsley Parsley

Peas Peas

Peppers Peppers

Potatoes Potatoes

Radish Radish

Spinach Spinach

Squash, Summer Squash, Summer

Squash, Winter Squash, Winter

Tomatoes Tomatoes

Appendix C Watering Your Garden


Choose a method to water your garden based on your situation and resources.

Bucket Method The most basic way to water your garden is with a 5 gallon bucket and a large plastic cup of water. Put your bucket near the garden, fill it with a hose, and then pour a cup of water on each plant or square. If the plant starts wilting, give it more water.

Pros Cons Minimal equipment needed Anyone can do it

May have to water twice a day when it’s really hot

Have to have someone tend your garden if you go on vacation

Labor intensive

Hose Method Another option is to water your garden with a hose.


Soil is so loose, the water tends to wash it away or leave big pits


Watering the leaves can promote disease



Mooch the Sprinklers Method If you have automatic irrigation for your lawn, you can just adjust the sprinkler heads to overshoot and water your garden.

Pros Cons No extra equipment needed Automated—no worries if you go on

vacation

May not give plants the right amount of water

Watering the leaves can promote disease

Soaker Hose You can purchase a soaker hose, which just oozes out water slowly, and wind it around your garden. You have to turn it off and on every day.


You have to remember to turn it on and OFF!


Soaker hoses don’t seem to water the garden very evenly

Not automated It is possible to add a timer to your soaker hose, and then make it automatic.



PVC and Sprinkler Heads with a Hose If you lean toward handy, you can put together an above ground sprinkler system with PVC and sprinkler heads that will attach to your hose. You might even be able to add a timer to automate it.

Pros Cons Automatic—no worries if you go on

vacation Need supplies and know-how to build Watering the leaves can promote

disease Sun and wind will wear down PVC and

timer; may need to replace parts

Add Sprinkler Head to Irrigation System If you have an automatic irrigation system, you can add a few pop-up sprinkler heads right next to or in your garden. You would do this if you don’t have a valve you can dedicate solely to the garden.


vacation Need supplies and know-how to build Watering the leaves can promote

disease May not give plants the right amount of

water



Low Pressure Drip Irrigation System If you have a valve to dedicate to watering just your garden, this is the most ideal solution. If you have experience building or repairing irrigation systems, go for it! Otherwise, you can hire someone to build and install this for you.


vacation Uses less water Puts water at the roots Flexible—can give different “zones”

more or less water

Need supplies and know-how to build Expensive to hire someone to build

Appendix D Recipes


Cabbage Rolls Ingredients Instructions

1 head of cabbage 1 pound of ground beef ½ cup rice, cooked 1 egg 1 onion, minced 1 carrot, minced 1 tsp salt ¼ C apple cider vinegar ½ C brown sugar 8 ounces tomato sauce

Boil whole cabbage for 5-10 minutes, cool Combine meat, rice, egg, onion, carrot, salt, and pepper Combine vinegar, brown sugar, and tomato sauce Remove 12 large leaves, chop the rest and put in the bottom

of a crock pot Put 2-4 tablespoons of meat mixture in the center of each leaf,

roll like an envelope and secure with a toothpick, and put in crock pot

Pour sauce over the top, cover and cook 8-10 hours on low

Thai Green Curry Ingredients Instructions

1 can coconut milk 1-2 tsp green curry paste 2 chicken breasts, chunked 2 C fresh veggies, thinly sliced (carrots, celery, bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, green onions, onions) 2 C rice

Cook rice according to instructions Open can of coconut milk and skim off ¼ C cream In a heavy skillet, heat cream and curry paste until fragrant Add the rest of the coconut milk and chicken, cook 5 minutes Add veggies and cover. Simmer for 5 minutes, until veggies

are cooked by still firm Serve over rice

Appendix D Recipes


Veggie Lasagna Ingredients Instructions

1 box lasagna noodles 2 T olive oil ½ C carrots, diced ½ C celery, diced ½ C green pepper, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 onion, diced 2 (15 oz) cans tomatoes parsley, oregano, basil ½ C broccoli, chopped ½ C cauliflower, chopped 1 ½ C ricotta cheese 1 egg 2 Tbs fresh parsley 1 tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 1 pound shredded mozzarella

Cook noodles according to instructions Sauté carrots, celery, pepper, onion, and garlic in olive oil

until soft Chop and add tomatoes and spices, simmer 10-15 minutes Add broccoli and cauliflower, cook 2-3 minutes Combine ricotta cheese, egg, parsley, salt and pepper Spray a 9x13 pan with non-stick cooking spray Layer noodles, veggie sauce, ricotta mix, and mozzarella Repeat layers until noodles and sauces are gone Cover and bake at 350 for 30 to 45 minutes. Uncover for the last 5 minutes

Appendix D Recipes


Butternut Squash Soup Ingredients Instructions

2 pounds squash 2 T butter 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic ½ tsp pepper 1 can chicken broth 1 cup half & half

Cut squash in half, clean out pulp, lay flesh down on cookie sheet. Bake at 350 for 45 minutes

Chop onion and sauté in butter Add garlic, pepper, and broth Scoop squash into soup and blend in blender until smooth Return to pot, add half & half, heat through and serve

Cream of Zucchini Soup Ingredients Instructions

2 pounds onions, chopped 2 Tbs butter 1 ½ pounds zucchini, sliced 3 C chicken broth ½ C light cream ¼ tsp pepper 1/8 tsp nutmeg 1/8 tsp salt cayenne pepper (pinch)

Cook onion in butter until clear and soft, but not brown Combine onion, zucchini and broth in heavy sauce pan and

bring to boil. Simmer 15 minutes Add seasoning and puree in blender until smooth Add light cream (or half & half), adjust seasonings to taste Heat through, but do not boil Garnish with grated cheddar cheese

Appendix D Recipes


Veggie Pizza Ingredients Instructions

2 cans crescent rolls ½ C mayonnaise 8 oz cream cheese ½ packet ranch dressing mix Cherry tomatoes, halved Broccoli, chopped Green onions, chopped Cauliflower, chopped Bell peppers, chopped Cheddar cheese, shredded

Spread crescent rolls on a cookie sheet, in one big layer Bake according to instructions, and cool Combine mayo, cream cheese, and ranch, spread on crust Top with veggies and cheese

Veggies & Cornbread Ingredients Instructions

1 pan cornbread, baked 2/3 C onions 2 cloves garlic 1 Tbs olive oil 1 zucchini or summer squash 2 C water 1 (15 oz) can diced tomatoes 1 (16 oz ) can black beans ½ tsp oregano salt, to taste pepper, to taste sour cream

Sauté onion and garlic in oil Slice zucchini, add to onion Cook for 2 minutes Add the rest and heat through Serve over warm cornbread, top with sour cream

Appendix D Recipes


Fresh Salsa Ingredients Instructions

3 pounds (about 13) tomatoes 2 bell peppers, chopped 2 Anaheim or mild peppers, chopped 1 jalapeno pepper 1 onion 1/3 C white vinegar 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs salt 2 tsp chili powder 2 Tbs cilantro, chopped ½ tsp oregano

Remove seeds from jalapeno pepper, keeping seeds Use a food processor or blender to chop jalapeno into

tiny pieces—add a tomato to help Combine the rest and use food processor or blender

to chop to the desired consistency Add jalapeno seeds if it’s too mild Add up to 2 Tbs more vinegar if its too bland

Guacamole Ingredients Instructions

3-4 ripe avocados ¼ to ½ an onion, finely chopped 1-2 cloves garlic, minced Juice of ½ lemon Sour cream Salt to taste

Cut the avocados in half, remove the pit and scoop out the flesh, mash it with a fork or potato ricer

Add onions and garlic—more for more “bite” Add lemon juice Add sour cream—I add equal to avocado mix Salt to taste Eat with tortilla chips and fresh salsa!!!

Appendix D Recipes


Ratatouille Ingredients Instructions

2 cups eggplant, cubed and peeled 1 zucchini, washed, halved, ¼” pieces 1 can tomatoes with juice ½ an onion, chopped 2 TBS olive oil ½ tsp dry basil 1/8 tsp pepper

Heat oil, sauté eggplant, zucchini, and onions Add the rest, bring to a boil, cover, simmer 20 min Uncover and cook 5-10 min Serve over noodles with shredded cheese

Zucchini Noodles Ingredients Instructions

1 zucchini 1 Julienne peeler 1 TBS olive oil

Wash the zucchini, cut off the stem and the bottom Put the zucchini on a cutting board and “peel” it with

the Julienne peeler. Ideally, put in Tupperware in fridge for 1-2 days to

allow it to dry out a little. Sauté in olive oil for 5 minutes.

Chicken and Cauliflower Pesto Ingredients Instructions

2-3 TBS oil 2 or 3 chicken breasts ½ head cauliflower 1 ½ cups baby spinach 1 package pesto sauce

Cut the chicken in chunks and sauté in oil. Cut cauliflower into bite-size pieces. Steam cauliflower until tender. Combine chicken, cauliflower, spinach, and pesto

until heated through.

Appendix D Recipes


Cauliflower Rice Ingredients Instructions

2-3 TBS oil or butter 1 onion, chopped ½ head cauliflower Salt (to taste) Pepper (to taste

Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook until it starts to brown.

Take the cauliflower and cut into bite size chunks. Process (on pulse) in food processor until the consistency of rice.

Put cauliflower in a microwave safe dish with a lid, cook 5 minutes.

Add cauliflower to onions, add salt and pepper, cook until flavors are combined.

Cabbage Noodles Ingredients Instructions

2-3 TBS oil or butter 1 onion, halved and sliced 1 small head cabbage Kosher salt (to taste)

Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook until it starts to brown.

Cut cabbage into wedges and process in food processor with slicing blade.

Add cabbage to the skillet, sprinkle with salt, and cook until slightly browned.

Appendix D Recipes


Pineapple and Lime Green Smooth Ingredients Instructions

1 cup fresh pineapple ¼ lime, half peeled 1 cup spinach 1 leaf kale, stem removed 5-7 pieces of ice (optional) 2-3 drops liquid stevia

Place everything in blender in order. If needed, add ¼ cup water to help it blend smoothly.

Blend until smooth.

4x4 Salad Garden Peas

(8 seeds)

Carrots(16 seeds)

Carrots(16 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Spinach(9 seeds)

Spinach(3 seeds)

Spinach(3 seeds)

Beets(9 seeds)

Swiss Chard(4 seeds)

Kale(1 plant)

Radishes(16 seeds)

Radishes(16 seeds)

First Planting

Trellis

Third Planting

Peas(8 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Spinach(9 seeds)

Kale(1 plant)

Spinach(9 seeds)

Trellis

Carrots(16 seeds)

Carrots(16 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Swiss Chard(4 seeds)

Second PlantingCherry Tomato

(1 plant)Cucumber(8 seeds)

Lettuce(4 seeds)

Bush Beans(9 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Pepper(1 plant)

Pepper(1 plant)

Trellis

Plant spinach on the outside leaving room for planting tomatoes later.

Harvest the two center rows of green onions �rst to leave room for planting cucumbers later.

If your season stays cool long enough, try growing Romaine or head lettuce. If you do, Plant bush beans, leaf lettuce, or beets for the second planting.

If it is too hot for planting lettuce, substitute with bush beans, beets, or radishes.

S

N

WE

By having this garden face the south, the tall vegetables on the trellis will provide shade for the lettuce and spinach during the hot summer months.

Harvest Times (approximate)

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Radishes Bush BeansLeaf Lettuce

Kale

Beets CarrotsGreen Onions

Romaine

Weeks

Spinach

You can also replant with with hardy vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, turnips or rutabagas.

Brought to you by http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net. Please do not photocopy or redistribute.Sample Garden Layouts © Emily Peery 2013

4x4 Salsa Garden

Spinach(12 seeds)

First Planting

Yellow Onions(9 sets)

RedOnions(9 sets)

Leaf Lettuce(12 seeds)

Cilantro(4 seeds)

Cilantro(4 seeds)

Second Planting

Jalapeno(1 plant)

Big Bertha(1 plant)

Roma Tomato(1 plant)

Better Boy Tomato(1 plant)

Big Bertha(1 plant)

Anaheim(1 plant)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Gr Onions(16 seeds)

Yellow Onions(9 sets)

RedOnions(9 sets)

Plant spinach and lettuce on the outsides of the squares where the tomatoes will grow.

Cut, and come again--harvest the outside leaves whileletting the plant continue to grow. Harvesting spinach like this promotes vigorous growth and avoids bolting.

CIlantro grows best in cool temperatures. Wash and freeze it for use later in the season.

The tomatoes will need support. The best is a 5’ tomato cage.

If the peppers are ready for harvest before the tomatoes, wash, core, and freeze them whole. The texture will be �ne for cooked salsa.

If desired, replant cilantro when the green onions are harvested.

S

N

W EBy having this garden face north, the tomatoes will not shade the shorter plants.

Brought to you by http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net. Please do not photocopy or redistribute.Sample Garden Layouts © Emily Peery 2013

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