fuel pump tech - kenne bell i the biggest, baddest

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Everyone knows that "You can't make horsepower without fuel." Pump sizing is relatively easy. If your engines output is to be increased 25%, then it's fuel pump output must be capable of supplying 25% more fuel. 40% more power - 40 more fuel. Some fuel system (return style), require a switch to activate the pump at "0" vacuum (naturally aspirated) or 3 psi (turbocharged or supercharged). At part throttle and cruise when the engine consumes relatively little fuel, the BOOST-A-PUMP® is not activated. Therein is the basic problem with larger aftermarket "full time" in tank pumps. They are "active" at all engine speeds and loads pumping all that unused fuel back to the tank or circulating it through it’s internal regulator - and heating it in the process. Any flow of liquid through piping creates friction (heat). The higher the flow, the greater the friction (heat build up). Remember that gas begins to boil at 95 degrees. That’s why professional drag racers all use cool cans to cool and stabilize their fuel supply. This is an example of where larger and more i.e. bigger in tank pumps aren’t better than the BOOST-A-PUMP® (BAP) concept. Kenne Bell offers the ideal BAP set up for any fuel system. FUEL PSI ACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP ACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP ACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP FUEL PUMP TECH PRESSURE (lbs/sq.in.) Get a fuel gauge. You can't tell what your fuel system is doing without one. Fuel pressure "drop off" can be a serious and expensive problem. If a fuel pump is incapable of supplying an adequate volume at WOT, then the pressure will drop off at the higher rpm levels. 10 psi of fuel pressure will lean or richen an engine 8%. 5 psi is 4%. 20 psi is 16% etc. The BOOST-A-PUMP® is your best guarantee against fuel pressure drop off. And since the BOOST-A-PUMP® is also a voltage regulator, it automatically adjusts the pre-set voltage to the pump when the accessories lower the input voltage - or even if the alternator fails! In other words, it's also a voltage regulator/fuel regulator. . How many times have we heard "I've got plenty of pressure but I need more volume." Wrong analogy. If the desired pressure is there, don't increase or even worry about volume. Pressure is everything to the fuel injectors. The two pump flow curves above illustrate the operating principle of the BOOST-A-PUMP®. The ingenious device merely increases the flow (volume) of any pump up to 100% by raising the voltage supply to the pump. A mere 1 volt variance will affect pump output up to a whopping 17%. Study the graph and you'll notice that as pressure increases, flow decreases - and as pressure decreases, flow increases. To determine the flow and pressure of any pump, one must look at the pump's "curve." All pump manufacturers rate their pumps this way. Again, the BOOST-A-PUMP® merely spins the pump faster allowing it to produce more fuel. No new expensive billet hats, supply and return lines, valves, regulators, relays, wiring, connectors and fittings are required. And no driveability issues. FUEL PRESSURE DROP OFF PUMP CURVES (STOCK vs. + 75% BOOST-A-PUMP®) "The BOOST-A-PUMP®” is the best thing to ever happen to a stock fuel pump.” Jim Bell, President RPM 549L 21 VOLTS 217L 12 VOLTS BEFORE BOOST-A-PUMP (pressure dropping off causes lean condition, poor performance, possible engine damage) 50 PSI 13.5 AFR AFTER BOOST-A-PUMP 60 PSI 11.5 AFR FLOW (ltrs/hr.) ‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP ‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP 40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V 40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V ‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP 40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V FUEL PUMP SIZING

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Everyone knows that "You can't make horsepower without fuel." Pump sizing is relatively easy. If your engines output is to be increased 25%, then it's fuel pump output must be capable of supplying 25% more fuel. 40% more power - 40 more fuel. Some fuel system (return style), require a switch to activate the pump at "0" vacuum (naturally aspirated) or 3 psi (turbocharged or supercharged). At part throttle and cruise when the engine consumes relatively little fuel, the BOOST-A-PUMP® is not activated. Therein is the basic problem with larger aftermarket "full time" in tank pumps. They are "active" at all engine speeds and loads pumping all that unused fuel back to the tank or circulating it through it’s internal regulator - and heating it in the process. Any flow of liquid through piping creates friction (heat). The higher the flow, the greater the friction (heat build up). Remember that gas begins to boil at 95 degrees. That’s why professional drag racers all use cool cans to cool and stabilize their fuel supply. This is an example of where larger and more i.e. bigger in tank pumps aren’t better than the BOOST-A-PUMP® (BAP) concept. Kenne Bell offers the ideal BAP set up for any fuel system.

FU

EL P

SI

ACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMPACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMPACTUAL TEST ON FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE AND AFTER THE KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP

FUEL PUMP TECH

PRESSURE (lbs/sq.in.)

Get a fuel gauge. You can't tell what your fuel system is doing without one. Fuel pressure "drop off" can be a serious and expensive problem. If a fuel pump is incapable of supplying an adequate volume at WOT, then the pressure will drop off at the higher rpm levels.

10 psi of fuel pressure will lean or richen an engine 8%. 5 psi is 4%. 20 psi is 16% etc. The BOOST-A-PUMP® is your best guarantee against fuel pressure drop off. And since the BOOST-A-PUMP® is also a voltage regulator, it automatically adjusts the pre-set voltage to the pump when the accessories lower the input voltage - or even if the alternator fails! In other words, it's also a voltage regulator/fuel regulator..

How many times have we heard "I've got plenty of pressure but I need more volume." Wrong analogy. If the desired pressure is there, don't increase or even worry about volume. Pressure is everything to the fuel injectors.

The two pump flow curves above illustrate the operating principle of the BOOST-A-PUMP®. The ingenious device merely increases the flow (volume) of any pump up to 100% by raising the voltage supply to the pump. A mere 1 volt variance will affect pump output up to a whopping 17%.

Study the graph and you'll notice that as pressure increases, flow decreases - and as pressure decreases, flow increases. To determine the flow and pressure of any pump, one must look at the pump's "curve." All pump manufacturers rate their pumps this way.

Again, the BOOST-A-PUMP® merely spins the pump faster allowing it to produce more fuel. No new expensive billet hats, supply and return lines, valves, regulators, relays, wiring, connectors and fittings are required. And no driveability issues.

FUEL PRESSURE DROP OFF PUMP CURVES (STOCK vs. + 75% BOOST-A-PUMP®)

"The BOOST-A-PUMP®” is the best thing to ever happen to a stock fuel pump.” Jim Bell, President

RPM

549L 21 VOLTS

217L 12 VOLTSBEFORE BOOST-A-PUMP

(pressure dropping off causes lean condition, poor performance, possible engine damage)

50 PSI13.5 AFR

AFTER BOOST-A-PUMP 60 PSI11.5 AFR

FL

OW

(lt

rs/h

r.)

‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V

‘11-’18 5.0 MUSTANG GT PUMP40-70 PSI 12V vs 21V

FUEL PUMP SIZING

KENNE BELL FUEL FLOW DYNO 3000The industry’s most technically advanced and sophisticated fuel flow bench. Measures fuel flow (up to 3000HP), pressure losses, temperature, pump current (up to 10 amps) and voltage in complete fuel systems or individual components (pumps, hats, pressure lines, return lines, regulators, filters, fuel rails, fittings, injectors, etc.

Complete vehicle supply line being flow tested

BOOST-A-PUMP® and Data Logger control and test center. Fuel flow is regulated manually or via computer.

Fuel rail and injector test ports

Measures differential fuel pressure loss, static and flow pressures in lines, fittings, filters, valves, regulators, baskets, billet hats, etc. Calibrated manual gauges are also used to verify accuracy.

Measures pump(s) voltage and amps “in” and “out” of B O O S T- A - P U M P ® . A l s o battery vs. fuel pump and wiring losses.

M e a s u r e s f u e l f l o w o f pump(s), fuel lines, fittings, filters, injectors, regulators, valves at any pressure. Also measures fuel temps.

CHASSIS DYNO - FUEL FLOW DYNO INTERFACEMounting a fuel flow sensor in the fuel line at the fuel rails gives a true reading of how much fuel the dyno engine is using. Since our Fuel Flow Dyno is located adjacent to our chassis dyno, we are able to actually “plug” our fuel flow sensor on a vehicle directly into the Fuel Flow Dyno and compare vehicle to same fuel system on Fuel Flow Dyno.

PUMP VOLTAGE COMPARISONS ON KENNE BELL FUEL FLOW DYNOThere’s much more to pump efficiency than advertised numbers. Pump performance and flow is TOTALLY DEPENDENT ON VOLTAGE, which varies considerably. Wiring accessories (lights, stereo, ignition, alternator - and fuel pump) require current to operate and wiring to transmit the current. Voltage losses in ANY wiring network lowers the available voltage (energy) to the pump. A single (1 volt) drop in pump voltage is 7-17% LESS FLOW. That can destroy your engine. The BOOST-A-PUMP® incorporates a built in VOLTAGE REGULATOR that compensates for pump voltage (flow) variations. Above are 3 different pump input voltages (10.5, 11.5 and 12.5). Again, a couple of volts (12.5-10.5) loss to the pump can easily be a 25% flow drop. Note how the BOOST-A-PUMP® “regulates” it’s output voltage to the pump within one percent (13.65-13.67) - far better than 25%. That means consistent fuel delivery regardless of voltage.

COMMON FUEL CONVERSION FACTORS

TO GO FROM MULTIPLY BY TO GET

Litres

Gallons

Litres of fuel

Pounds of fuel

Gallons of fuel

Grams per sec.

CC per min.

Inches HG

Pounds per sq. in.

Pounds per sq. in.

Gallons

Litres

Pounds of fuel

Litres of fuel

Pounds of fuel

Gallons per hour

Gallons per hour

Inches water (H 0)2

Feet of water (H 0)2

Inches mercury (Hg)

0.264

3.785

1.660

0.600

6.300

7.930

0.016

1.133

2.310

2.030

(FLOW AND PRESSURE)VOLTAGE vs FLOW WALBRO GSS340 @ 60 PSI

BOOST-A-PUMP®BOOST-A-PUMP®BOOST-A-PUMP®BOOST-A-PUMP®BOOST-A-PUMP®

21.017.513.512.011.0

440351257206171

VOLTAGE @ PUMP FLOW (L)

FLOW SENSOR

PUMP TESTING

Pumps are tested individually, as an assembly (canister), hat, tubing, fittings, relief valves etc. and as part of the complete fuel system with fuel lines to determine just how much HP they will support with and without the BOOST-A-PUMP®.

NOTE: Late Ford, Dodge, GM etc. pumps are an integral part of the canister and cannot be disassembled, replaced or upgraded without destroying the assembly.

78-400L IN TANK

JPC DUAL / TRIPLE RETURNLESS SYSTEMBILLET HAT

‘07 UP DODGE, CHRYSLER

2V ‘96-’04 MUSTANG ‘11 UP 5.0 MUSTANG, BOSS 302SAME PUMP (2) USED IN ‘13 UP SHELBY GT500

‘10 CAMARO

FUEL SYSTEM BASICSA Basic Overview of Fuel Systems

Kenne Bell has long been recognized as a leader in fuel system engineering and technology. The following should help you understand some fuel system basics. For our data and information, we rely on our highly sophisticated FFB (fuel flow bench) to test not only pumps, but fuel lines, fittings, filters, fuel rails, injector and complete vehicle fuel systems. The BOOST-A-PUMP®,the most successful fuel system product ever, continues to be the NUMBER ONE choice for increasing fuel delivery on stock pump vehicles. It has been used exclusively on Kenne Bell Supercharger Kits, including the dual pump ultra powerful Shelby GT500/Super Snake 850HP kits, Dodge Hemi (up to 900HP), 2010 up Camaros (up to 900HP), one of the “Fastest Production Sport Cars in the World” (the 806HP/242MPH Koeniggsegg CCR), the Lingenfelter 950HP Corvettes and the 1000+HP 2013-’14 Shelby GT500. All pumps are tested on the Kenne Bell in house computerized FFB. Note: When viewing our pump flow data, it’s important to keep the following hydraulic basics in mind.

� Tests were run at 60 psi. Pump flow increases as pressure decreases and decreases as pump pressure increases. Example: As compared to 60 psi, flow will be approx. 15% higher at 40 psi and 15% lower at 80 psi. Remember, larger lower pressure injectors may supply more fuel than the smaller higher pressure injectors IF there is sufficient pump capacity. So don’t be duped by a pump flow rating without knowing the pressure that may have been conveniently left out.

‚ Any increase in boost pressure must be deducted from the injector pressure rating as the manifold boost “resists” the flow/pressure of the injectors. The fuel pressure MUST be increased to compensate for higher boost. 10 psi higher boost and fuel pressure LOWERS pump flow 7%. Example: Our Shelby GT500 makes 801HP at 23 psi boost and 83 psi “rail” pressure to net 60 psi Delta or injector pressure. And it’s exactly why boosted vehicles need HIGHER FLOW RATINGS than naturally aspirated engine pumps and why it’s difficult to “rate” pumps. Lower pressure/higher flow injectors are also a good solution. Be sure your tuner understands this. We refer to it as Delta pressure.

ƒ Air fuel ratio also affects pump flow. Example: Richening AF ratio 9% from 12.5 to 11.5 increases pump flow 9%.

„ A 10 psi reduction in fuel pressure affects AF ratio 8%.

… AF ratio similarly affects pump duty cycle in non return systems.

† Fuel supply lines and fuel rails are often upgraded unnecessarily without sound fuel flow analysis. At Kenne Bell, we flow test fuel pumps, fuel lines AND rails on our FFB and the vehicle on the dyno. They’re adjacent to each other. Example: There’s only a 7 psi pressure drop from tank to rails at 700RWHP with an ‘03 Cobra. Who else has performed this test? The 7 psi isn’t an issue if 1. the pressure is adequate or 2. the pressure is not dropping off. Is it worth installing a $1500-$2500 fuel system for a 6, 5, 4 or ? psi reduction?

FUEL SYSTEMS AREN’T THAT DIFFICULT - WITH A BOOST-A-PUMP™ A mere 3 psi drop at 600HP is certainly not an issue with a Cobra. And our 2017 Mustang 5.0 GT makes 855RWHP with the STOCK lines and pump with only the BOOST-A-PUMP® at 60 psi. Rest assured, a larger fuel line or more/larger pumps WILL NOT MAKE MORE HP unless the pressure loss in the supply line is “excessive.” The optional 21V BOOST-A-PUMP® increases pump flow over 100% and HP up to 1000HP. But what is “excessive?” 3, 5, 10 psi? There is up to 10 psi loss in some of the Billet (2 and 3 pump) hats. Think about that. It’s not just pressure or flow. It’s knowing the facts from fiction and understanding the entire fuel system. A BOOST-A-PUMP® makes it easy, inexpensive and reliable. If 6 psi feed line loss is a problem, why isn’t the 10 psi loss in a $1500 billet hat system?

AEROMOTIVE SINGLE 1000

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONSHOW EFFICIENT IS THE BOOST-A-PUMP®? DO I NEED BIGGER AFTERMARKET PUMPS?No one wants to knowingly short change their engine on fuel. OEM style pumps coupled to a BOOST-A-PUMP® delivers up to 100% more fuel. That is the same or more fuel as two (2) pumps at a fraction of the cost of a complete return style fuel system. That’s enough fuel for 99% of the applications, street or race. And an upgrade to a “larger” aftermarket pump is typically not feasible because of space or other limitations even if it matched the 75-100% of a stock/BAP combination. Example: There is no “drop in” upgrade for the late Mustang, Dodge and Camaro “canister” pump assemblies. And the BAP typically outflows them.

Look at the actual pump flow of these sample pumps at 12V (pump mfgs. rate their pumps at 12V) and compare the flow to BOOST-A-PUMP® flow at 17.5V and 21V. With wiring losses, accessories (stereo, ignition, lights) we are assuming a pump(s) sees about 12V at WOT under max load. If installing a complete new system (wiring, connectors, lines, pumps, etc) you would probably shoot for 13.5 volts under max load. The advantage of the BOOST-A-PUMP® is it “regulates” voltage and GUARANTEES 17.5 or 21V regardless of the pump’s input voltage (12, 12.5, 13, etc.) in a stock vehicle. The flow gains from the guaranteed voltage (17.5 or 21V) can be seen in the chart. It’s hard to beat a BOOST-A-PUMP® / stock system unless your application demands a complete new ultra high HP fuel system.

ADDING ANOTHER PUMP (DUAL OR TRIPLE) IN A BILLET HATSounds like a good idea, but not what you expect. A Shelby stock “dual pump” assembly is 290L. Add a BOOST-A-PUMP® and it’s 587 (17.5V) - 732 (21V). See why the KB BOOST-A-PUMP® is so popular? Compare that to a 3 pump billet hat system with a max flow of only 435L (290+145). Note how adding another Shelby GT 500 pump (189L) does NOT equal (378) but instead 290L. That’s typical. Fact is pump capacity is off by 23% because of the losses in the lines and fittings that connect the pumps. Up to 23% loss also exists in the “billet hat” systems we tested because the fuel is routed horizontally through undersized restrictive machined passages in the billet housing itself. Note the TRIPLE BILLET HAT pump set up we tested is only 435L @ 12V vs 732L for the stock dual BOOST-A-PUMP® @ 732L. Oops.

Assuming your pump(s) are currently seeing 12V at WOT, the chart gives you the actual flow increases from the BOOST-A-PUMP® street (17.5V and competition (21V). The Aeromotive 1000 and other “billet hat” assemblies is a complete new in tank unit that requires expensive all new plumbing, wiring and converting your car to a return style system. It pumps 275L at 12V. The best scenario would be to somehow get a “full” 13.5 alternator voltage with no wiring losses. Flow at 13.5=450L.

IS THE BOOST-A-PUMP™ A SAFE PROVEN CONCEPT?We think so. Kenne Bell introduced the BOOST-A-PUMP® in 1995. Today it is standard equipment on nearly all our supercharger kits. It is the most proven, reliable and efficient method of increasing fuel delivery. Also, it is safe and reasonably priced with virtually “0” failures. Ford engineers recommend it. Other supercharger kit manufacturers have abandoned their “larger” pumps and now offer the BOOST-A-PUMP®. Have you ever tried to adapt one of the larger 340L or 400L pumps to a Mustang 5.0, Dodge Hemi, or Camaro stock pump assembly? What a nightmare of custom plumbing and wiring. And you destroy the canister. The BOOST-A-PUMP® actually INCREASES pump life of any new returnless style pump. There has not been a single case of a Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® damaging a fuel pump. And it is responsible for supplying enough fuel for a stock 500HP Shelby GT 500 to develop 1000HP - with NO OTHER CHANGES to the stock fuel system. Still believe you need larger lines, rails and pumps?

WHAT IS THE BOOST-A-PUMP® PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION?It’s a simple, proven Kenne Bell concept that does not require larger pumps, fuel lines, rails and expensive plumbing. “Bigger” and “more” pumps is not always better. Much like the stock Ford returnless systems, that uses voltage to LOWER pump output from 100%-0% duty cycle, the BOOST-A-PUMP® merely RAISES voltage from 12V-17.5 or 12V-21V and pump output up to 100%. Varying pump flow by voltage is precisely how the Ford “returnless” systems operate. The voltage is constantly adjusting up or down

SAMPLE PUMP COMPARISON OVERVIEW (12, 17.5, 21V)SINGLE & DUAL WITH & WITHOUT BOOST-A-PUMP®

*DUALTRIPLESINGLESINGLESINGLESINGLESINGLEDUAL

SINGLESINGLESINGLESINGLESINGLESINGLE

SHELBY GT 500SHELBY GT 500SHELBY GT 500

MUSTANG 5.0 ‘11 UP MUSTANG ‘05-’10

TI/WALBRO GSS340HEMI 5.7, 6.1, 6.4DODGE DEMON

HELLCAT/TRACKHAWK CAMARO ‘10 UP

TI/WALBRO GSS340AEROMOTIVE STEALTH

WALBRO F9000267AEROMOTIVE 1000

290L435L189L217L148L206L181L

340L149L260L242L320L275L

587LNA

245L435L270L351L320L

590L291L351LNANANA

732LNA

426L549L337L440L401L

732363L440LNANANA

APPLICATION

BOOST-A-PUMP™

17.5V 21VPUMPS60 PSI

12V

IMPORTANT*Flow is for assembly (both pumps and stock hat). Flow is always less than ratings of 2 single pumps (426x2=852) vs dual assembly (732L).

Now THAT’S a pump. The Hellcat pump with the KB BOOST-A-PUMP® is all that’s required to run in the 9’s. In combination with the BOOST-A-PUMP®, the stock Hellcat delivers more fuel thatn the Dual Shelby GT500’s WITH a BOOST-A-PUMP® or almost as much fuel as 3 Walbro GSS340’s or 2 big F9000267’s in a hat.

on the outpuy side of the FPDM. The FPDM “pulses” the pump to maintain the commanded pressure based on the Delta pressure on the fuel rail. When the pump voltage at 13V can no longer supply enough pressure, the BOOST-A-PUMP® will increase the pump voltage (pressure and flow) up to 21V. The BOOST-A-PUMP® merely supplies the pumps or FPDM(s) with the power they need where the stock system leaves off.

IS THERE ANY DELAY OR RAMPING?None. Why should there be? When the engine sees boost it needs fuel instantly.

DO I NEED TO RE-PROGRAM OR RE-TUNE FOR THE BAP?Others require software, computers, CD’s with complex programming or “ramping up” for on-off operation or recommend an expensive ECM re-tune. Why redesign a paperclip into 20 expensive moving parts? “If I ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” But if you still choose to run the pump full time, the Hobbs boost switch is easily bypassed for “full time” operation on 17.5V. Note: 21V “full time” on return systems is not recommended. DO NOT do it.

MUST I BUY 2 BAP MODULES FOR MY DUAL PUMP SHELBY?Absolutely not. “Why buy two when one will do.” Only Kenne Bell offers a “single” module in either Dual Wire or Plug N Play specifically for dual pump Fords - the same dual BOOST-A-PUMP® used on the 2007-’14 850HP Shelby Super Snakes with room to grow and 1000HP Shelbys.

IS A SINGLE BOOST-A-PUMP® SUFFICIENT? Of course it is. A single pump with a BOOST-A-PUMP® will more than double the fuel flow of the stock pump. Isn’t that the same as two (2) pumps? Pump FLOW is what is paramount. It makes no difference if it’s single or dual, domestic or import, or car or truck. The injectors only care if there is adequate fuel delivery and pressure. For example, the 21V Competition BOOST-A-PUMP® will support up to 765RWHP on the Dodge/Chrysler 5.7, 6.1 Hemi, 800RWHP on the Camaro, 854+RWHP on the 2011-’17 Ford Mustang 5.0. This is typically beyond the safe HP limits of these engines. If the pump delivers enough L per HP, all is well. Note: Installing “dual pumps” in a vehicle that was produced with a single pump will typically create wiring, routing, plumbing and capacity issues. Best bet is to run a return style system with new wiring, plumbing etc. Very expensive.

ANY ISSUES WITH 21V? CAN I UPGRADE MY 17.5V?Only from those who don’t offer 21V and/or sufficient fuse protection. 21V is another 25% in fuel delivery and recommended for competition vehicles. And all new style “single” 40 amp BOOST-A-PUMP’s may be upgraded to 21V with the 21V Upgrade Kit which includes a 17.5-21V Step Up Plug. Just be sure to use the signal wire and Hobbs switch included in all kits.

SHOULD I REPLACE MY PUMP WITH A LARGER PUMP OR THE BOOST-A-PUMP®?Both approaches will work, but there’s a lot more labor and cost involved in removing the pump from the tank. And unless the pump is part of a “kit” with all the wiring, hoses and fittings, adaption and fabrication can be a serious issue. Finally, late model canister pumps cannot be removed and replaced so the BOOST-A-PUMP® is the ideal method of doubling fuel capacity.

WHAT ABOUT THE DODGE HELLCAT/TRACKHAWK PUMP?The Hellcat is a great pump assembly (340L@12V), but costs $1075 from a Dealer not including labor. By contrast, a Plug N Play 21V BOOST-A-PUMP® more than doubles the Hellcat pump flow with no other changes for a fraction of the price.

DODGE DEMON PUMPS?Same proven Dual BOOST-A-PUMP® used so successfully on the dual pump ‘07-’14 Shelby Gt500 and Shelby Super Snake.

DO I NEED TO REPLACE ANY WIRING?No. Re-wiring and relays are what we avoid with the BOOST-A-PUMP®. Some kits may require a larger fuse (included in kit).

DO I NEED A “REVERSE” BOOST-A-PUMP®?No. The “voltage reducers” are needed only to “reduce” voltage flow and NOISE for a single huge pump running full time and bypassing and heating all the extra fuel through a return system. The Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® operates the stock pump(s) at 12-13.5 just like the OEM. No additional noise or heat until WOT (boost or low vacuum).

FUEL RAILS?Our Fuel Flow Dyno can test fuel rails individually or collectively for fuel pressure loss. Stock rails will support 1000HP on our tests. We use billet rails on our kits only if there is a fitment issue with the stock rails.

CAN I RUN MY BOOST-A-PUMP(S) FULL TIME?YES: R (Returnless System) NO: RMR (Returnless Manual Regulation) NO: RS (Return Style Systems)

RS - RETURN STYLE SYSTEMS Not Recommended1. ‘86-’95 vehicles or any other “return style” pump that incorporates a return line. The 17.5V or 21V BOOST-A-PUMP® delivers 75-100% additional fuel at WOT when the engine is in boost. It only requires 1% of that fuel at idle and cruise. The remaining 99% - AND the 75-100% from the BOOST-A-PUMP® - would be forced through the return line, regulator and fittings. This “overfueling” conditions creates more friction which heats the fuel and reduces fuel octane. Gasoline begins to boil at 87-95°. Not recommended.

RMR - RETURNLESS MANUAL REGULATION Not Recommended2. The 2011up Mustangs, 2007 up Hemi, 2010 up GM Camaro etc. use a sealed canister type internal non adjustable bypass

(regulator) that “circulates” fuel in the canister. Operating these pumps full time with either 17.5 or 21V also increases bypassed fuel velocity creating heat and with the inevitable octane reduction and increased sensitivity to engine knock/detonation.

R - FORD RETURNLESS PWM SYSTEMS Recommended for 17.5V / Not Recommended for 21V3. 1996-2017 5.0, 5.4, 5.8. These systems regulate pump speed by PWM (pulse width modulation) of the pump(s). There is no “returned” fuel and the pump(s) run at 12-13V when not activated by the BOOST-A-PUMP®. Both 17.5V and 21V are OK, EXCEPT 21V must use the Boost Activation Switch. The FPDM (fuel pump distribution module) was not designed to support 21V full time, but no problem when activated part time (WOT or boost). 17.5 is OK to run full time on either single or dual BOOST-A-PUMP’s.

DOES THE BOOST-A-PUMP® INCREASE FUEL HEATING?No. It is only activated when the engine demands more fuel. However, return style systems that run at full pump speed all the time are notorious for “recirculating” and heating fuel under idle, part throttle and cruise. We can get 30° running a return style on our Fuel Flow Dyno under ideal “in lab” conditions. Remember, fuel boils at 97°. Vapor lock can occur when the fuel starts boiling. And hotter fuel means lower octane and higher risk of detonation.

CAN I USE THE BOOST-A-PUMP® IN CONJUNCTION WITH AN AFTERMARKET PUMP?It depends on the pump size and vehicle wiring capacity. These are all higher amperage pumps (see below) that require big wiring upgrades. The BOOST-A-PUMP® is designed to upgrade stock vehicle pumps. Also, a Walbro 340 or even larger F9000267 can’t be adapted to late model Ford, Chrysler, GM etc. sealed canister assemblies. And if they are adapted via a hat, a complete return style system with lines, regulator and re-wiring also is necessary. And the best you get is 320L with a “big” single pump assembly or 544L with the dual “big” pump assembly. And it must run FULL TIME? It’s easy to see why the Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® with stock pump assemblies is so well accepted.

NITROUS? NOS needs additional fuel. The big question is always “Is my stock fuel system adequate?” The BOOST-A-PUMP® is an ideal easy to install economical approach to increasing fuel supply 75-100% on demand. If using NOS with a supercharger kit, verify there is sufficient fuel for both.

BOOST-A-PUMP® LOCATION? Typically located in the trunk, but also OK underhood. Some of the competitions devices run hotter and aren’t even recommended for underhood operation - “only in the cockpit or trunk.”

WHAT ABOUT NOISE? Again, the BOOST-A-PUMP® is only activated at boost or WOT or by the FPDM in ‘96-2017 Fords. You’ll never hear the increased pump speed under idle or cruise. One company even offers a “reverse BOOST-A-PUMP®” to reduce the full time pump speed and irritating noise.

I PLAN ON RUNNING E85 BECAUSE OF THE HIGHER OCTANE. ANY PROBLEMS?Not with the BOOST-A-PUMP®.Be sure your pumps and ALL fuel system components - including the pump and in tank wire connections are E85 compatible. The TI 9000267 is the only E85 compatible aftermarket pump we are aware of. Alcohol is highly corrosive. E85 requires 49% more fuel volume at stoich (14.64 gasoline vs. 9.85 E85 = 1.49 (+49%). The BOOST-A-PUMP® is able to supply up to 100% more fuel with a one wire hook up.

WHAT ABOUT SAFETY FACTORS?When the ACTUAL pump flow is unknown because of voltage variations (voltage/flow of pump), one approach is to “guess” at it - or warn that the pump may not develop the advertised ratings. Ford recommends users deduct 10% from the advertised pump rating. The regulator in the Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® guarantees the correct 17.5 or 21V supply. But then there is the “losses” in the hat, lines and fittings. Also consider boost. Use the “Kenne Bell Fuel & HP Estimator” to better understand the variables.

WHAT IS A “RETURNLESS SYSTEM?”See “BOOST-A-PUMP® Theory Explained.” Returnless systems are now used by all the OEM’s. There are two types - pump modulating and an internal pump bowl pop off valve to maintain a preset pressure. Fuel heating/boiling, fuel octane loss and emissions are all synonymous with old style “return systems” which return fuel back to the tank via an in line regulator.

IS IT PRACTICAL TO REPLACE AND UPGRADE THE PUMP IN THE NEW STYLE CANISTERS AS USED IN THE ‘11 UP MUSTANG, ‘10 UP CAMARO, ‘07 UP DODGES, ETC?No. Those days are over. These plastic assemblies cannot be disassembled without destroying them. We have analyzed all of them. And if you did break one open, you would quickly see the complexity of replacing a pump even if one did somehow fit and hook up to the tubing and wiring. Our advice is to use the BOOST-A-PUMP® concept or remove the canister and engineer an entirely new system.

DOES BOOST AFFECT MY FUEL REQUIREMENTS?Absolutely. But rarely is boost ever considered when calculating fuel requirements. Example: 10 psi of boost reduces injector flow by 10%. Boost in the manifold forces fuel back into the injector.

PUMPSWalbro GSS 340Walbro F9000267‘11-’18 Mustang

Dual Walbro F900267

12V206L320L217L544L

BOOST-A-PUMP® 17.5V351L

- 435L

-

BOOST-A-PUMP® 21V440L

-549L

-

rated 465L

YOUR COMPETITION MAKES SOME WILD CLAIMS ABOUT “DELIVERY”, “NOISE” & “PAUSING”The BOOST-A-PUMP® doesn’t “DELIVER”, they claim. Really? Proven and tested up to +100% (they claim 80%) since 1996 and virtually “0” failures for the last 21 years. Notice our competition conveniently fails to mention that theirs operates at a whopping 25° hotter than a KB. Oops. So, it is not recommended for underhood mounting and must be located in the car or trunk. Could that issue be related to lower grade more heat and moisture sensitive components and reliability. And they think you should pay more money for this? We quote from their Instruction Manual: “The unit must be mounted inside the vehicle cabin (under a seat) or in the trunk. Install the unit so it does not come into contact with water or extreme engine heat (+250°).” Last time we looked, there are a LOT of electrical components under the hood . . . like the Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® since 1996 . . . that can tolerate “extreme” ordinary 250° underhood heat. Sounds UNRELIABLE and under-designed to us.

“NOISE” VIDEO FROM COMPETITIONWhy test and video ANY voltage booster with a RESISTOR instead of the PUMP to show “noise.” Resistors don’t pump fuel. The Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® was designed to run pumps, not resistors. So, one should measure the INDUCTIVE load from the pump and not the RESISTIVE load from a resistor. Notice their own DC meter didn’t measure any of this “noise” they speak of. Perhaps they should try dunking them both in a bucket of water or under the hood for 8 hours and see how they perform under real world conditions - or get a Fuel Flow Bench and do some meaningful testing. We sure tested theirs on our bench.

“PAUSING, DELAYING, RAMPING”?Finally, they recommend “pausing” or “delaying” the BOOST-A-PUMP® activation at boost. Hmm? Isn’t that where your engine NEEDS THE FUEL TO PREVENT DETONATION AND ENGINE DAMAGE? Why starve your engine for fuel when it needs it most - in boost. Leave the Kenne Bell as is and activate it at 3 psi as per our design AT 21V or full time at 17.5V. Just leave the BOOST-A-PUMP® on full time @ 17.5V as we recommend on any ‘96-’14 RL (Returnless) Mustang and forget about this ridiculous “pausing,” “delaying,” “ramping” etc. Then for the Competition 21V activate it at 3 psi with our BAS as we recommend.

RATING FUEL SYSTEMSHOW TRANSMISSIONS & SUPERCHARGERS AFFECT FUEL DEMAND

Why do Kenne Bell Fuel System, HP Ratings and Recommendations vary between like vehicles? All else equal, we all know that a modified higher HP engine demands more fuel.

PARASITIC LOSSESBut few consider the added 35HP necessary to drive an automatic trans vs. a manual. The water pump, alternator, PS, PB and AC also depend on the engine to drive them, but they are a constant. And there are other factors.

BSFCMany use the BSFC to “estimate” pump or fuel efficiency. First, using .5 for NA and .6 or .65 BSFC for supercharged/turbocharged applications is NOT accurate as it does not address the following:

� BOOST - How much? 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 or 30. Boost affects injector flow. Subtract boost from the injector psi rating and use the lower pressure injector flow rate. Example: 60 psi - 80 lbs/hr vs. 10 psi boost or 50 psi = 73 lbs hr.

‚ LINE LOSS - Typically only 6.5 psi loss at 800HP and 8,5 psi loss at 1000HP. Not a big deal.

ƒ PUMP EFFICIENCY - Is the pump operating at 12 or 13.5V? Is the pump in a canister? 1 or 2 pumps (2 pumps typically lose 22% total flow when paired in a canister and more if 3 pumps).

„ RWHP or EHP - There’s a 15% difference in the HP “rating.” Which is it?

… PARASITIC LOSS - You may find this one particularly interesting reading. Supercharger efficiency (power consumption/parasitic loss), gears, water pump, etc. all consume engine HP and USE FUEL even though dyno HP reads less. Engine still consumes same amount of fuel. The Kenne Bell “Fuel & Horsepower Estimator” takes into account these factors and will even determine the injector flow required.

DO I NEED A LARGER FUEL LINE?Big misconception. We have thousands of BOOST-A-PUMP® customers making BIG HP numbers with stock fuel lines and rails. Here’s the proof of how easy and economical it is to support 800-1000+HP. This will give you some idea of what the pressure loss would be at the various fuel flow/HP numbers. What’s important is that a BOOST-A-PUMP® on a stock pump produces a LOT of fuel WITHOUT LARGER fuel lines. Even 8.5 psi loss in a stock line at 318L (1000HP) is not a big concern. 248L is 780HP. On the Shelby’s and earlier Fords (Dodge used same relief valve as 5.0 Mustang) - and Camaros - the ECM can be calibrated to merely increase the pressure 8.5 psi and compensate totally for the 10 psi loss. So are you sure you need that expensive 2 or 3 pump billet system with a 2 psi loss instead of 8.5 psi? If 6 psi line loss (8.5-2=6.5) is a “problem” your fuel system is too marginal to start with. Use common sense and the facts when deciding on a fuel system.

NEW PRESSUREOLD PRESSURE x OLD FLOW = 73 LBS/HR (new flow)

THE STOCK FUEL 3/8 O.D. LINE WAS PURCHASED INCLUDING THE LINE THAT GOES TO THE RAIL. ONE GAUGE WAS PLACED AT THE ENTRY (FUEL TANK) OF THE LINE, AND ANOTHER RIGHT AT THE DISCHARGE BACK TO THE RETURN. A THROTTLING VALVE WAS PLACED AFTER THE LINE BUT BEFORE THE FLOWMETER TO SET LINE PRESSURE. PUMP PRESSURE WAS SET AT THE ENTRY (FUEL TANK) END OF THE LINE, THEN THE SECOND GAUGE WAS READ TO DETERMINE THE LOSS.

SAME TEST, BUT ALL FITTINGS WERE REMOVED FROM THE LINE, THEN THE SECOND GAUGE WAS READ TO DETERMINE THE LOSS.

PUMP USED: DUAL WALBRO T1 F9000262

TEST METHOD WITH FITTINGS:

TEST METHOD W/OUT FITTINGS:

* SET AT ENTRY TO FUEL LINE (TANK END) ^ EXTRAPOLATED DATA

PUMP PSIG*

PSI DROPW/ FITTINGS

PSI @ RAIL FLOW (LPH) PSI DROPW/OUT

FITTINGS^

70

60

50

40

6.5

7.5

8.5

10

63.5

52.5

41.5

30

248

281

318

352

6.0

7.2

7.5

8.2

NOTE: ‘05 up Mustang/Shelby, Dodge Hemi and Camaro use the larger 3/8” supply line shown below.

2011-’18 MUSTANG GT FUEL LINE LOSS TEST

“I’m out of fuel. My RWHP estimates say I should have more fuel left” Check out the info below.

SUPERCHARGER FUEL DEMAND vs. PARASITIC HP LOSSES

All else equal, a given test engine consumes the same amount of fuel whether it is driving a less efficient supercharger, manual or automatic trans, lower rear end gears, water pump etc.

It simply “wastes” fuel, HP and vehicle speed driving these power robbing components so the rear wheels see less HP because of the parasitic losses / power consumption. Even the AC uses more engine HP and fuel but ONLY when the cruise control increases throttle opening to maintain vehicle speed. More speed = more HP. That’s why there are more efficient superchargers, electric water pumps, lock up torque converters, under-drive pulleys etc. They all lower this wasted HP to the rear wheels while reducing fuel consumption.

Again, you never touched the engine itself or altered the fuel delivery (rich or lean) so the fuel consumption by the pump, injectors and tune are unchanged. And yes, if the HP of the vehicle with the inefficient supercharger is increased 63 HP with headers, cams etc. to compensate for the more efficient supercharger vehicle, then the fuel system must be able to support this new fuel demand of +63 HP.

Why this discussion? Because Kenne Bell rates our BOOST-A-PUMP® HP based on 1) Kenne Bell Twin Screw superchargers and 2) Manual Transmissions. We are the only company that we know of who provides this tech and data for our customers.

Example: Note stock engine was 320HP. Both superchargers consume the same amount of fuel but HP output of KB at same boost is +35HP. Eaton will then “run out” of fuel delivery at 605HP instead of 640HP because it uses 35 more engine HP to drive it.

Even if both superchargers produce the same boost and air temps, the less efficient supercharger will use more engine HP to drive it. And the higher the RPM and boost the wider the HP gap. Note that supercharger power consumption was the same until 420HP. (See dyno graph).

*HP loss with automatic trans. A non lock up converter will be higher depending on stall speed.**The lower the gear ratio, the higher the HP loss.

A factory type lock up clutch converter is approximately 25 peak HP vs a higher stall “competition” non lock up. We have designed, sold and experimented with lock up torque converters on turbocharged Buick GN’s and our supercharged vehicles since the 80's, when the OEM’s first began using them.

Increasing the stock stall speed (converter size or fin angle) AND eliminating the clutch results in more slippage and reduced HP. Anyone who believes converter slippage / higher stall is beneficial try this: Launch your manual trans car and then....push the clutch in so it slips 500-1000RPM and see if the car accelerates as fast. Then check your 1/4 mile time slip.

Our recommendation: Stay with the stock stall speed, keep the clutch and let the positive displacement supercharger (Roots or Twin Screw) supply the additional torque vs lower gas guzzling gears and “slipping” the converter to allow the centrifugal to rev for more boost. “Slippage”, “HP loss” and “heat” (trans and engine) are NEVER good unless a compensating for the inherent low torque/RPM/boost disadvantage of a centrifugal or turbo.

SO if you car “runs out” of fuel at a lower than the Kenne Bell advertised HP, regardless of fuel system or manufacturer, you may want to allow for the 1) Supercharger 2) Transmission and 3) Lower Gear Ratio.

IMPORTANT

320

320

605 / EATON

640 / KB

-35

-

SAME

SAME

11.5

11.5

STOCK HP HP / SC DIFFERENCE PARASITIC LOSS

MAX RELATED FUELPUMP FLOW L/HR

AIR FUELRATIO

COMPONENT POWER CONSUMPTION

AUTO VS MANUAL

AUTO VS MANUAL

AUTO VS MANUAL

AUTO VS MANUAL

3.73 VS 3.08

UNDER DRIVE PULLEYS

ELECTRIC WATER PUMP

‘11 UP MUSTANG

‘05 UP DODGE

‘10 UP CAMARO

EATON VS TWIN SCREW & CENTRIFUGAL

GM, FORD, CHRYSLER

GM, FORD, CHRYSLER

GM, FORD, CHRYSLER

*35 LOCK UP

*35 LOCK UP

*45 LOCK UP

15-100HP DEPENDING ON BOOST & RPM

**18 HP

1-2HP / 1000 RPM

8-12 HP & HIGHER FOR 4.10 ETC.

‘07-’13 SHELBY GT 500, SUPER SNAKE, KRThe “Dual” BOOST-A-PUMP® module is designed specifically for the new dual pump systems used on the ‘07 up Shelby GT 500, Super Snake, KR and the Ford GT. It raises the HP capacity from 550 to 800RWHP - with NO OTHER CHANGES - even with stock 52 lb high pressure injectors. Up to 900RWHP and 1000RWHP respectively with larger injectors. It also works with Ford Racing #M-9407 GT05 Dual Pump Kit for ‘05 up Mustang 4.6 GT (dual FPDM). Supports up to 1000 EHP depending on injector size - MORE than a “triple” Walbro 255 hat assembly.

‘03-’04 COBRA*‘03-’04 Cobra stock dual pump system is good for 750RWHP with only the 17.5V BOOST-A-PUMP® and 925 with the 21V with the stock single FPDM. For over 750RWHP, use the “Dual” BOOST-A-PUMP® or use 2 of the Ford GT or Shelby pumps. Note: The ‘03-’04 Cobra uses a smaller 5/16” fuel line vs. the 3/8” for the ‘05 up Mustang/Shelby.

‘99-’04 LIGHTNING (RETURN SYSTEM)* No full timeThe stock Lightning 127L pumps are good to 600HP with the “Single” BOOST-A-PUMP®.Replacing the 127L pumps with Walbro GSS342 255L (actually 192L) will support +800HP with the “Single” BOOST-A-PUMP®. Note: We don’t recommend switching return and returnless style pumps. Use the basic pump design the system was designed for.

‘05-’10 MUSTANGFord Racing #M-9407 GT05 Dual Pump Kit with Dual BOOST-A-PUMP® up to 1000HP with larger 100 lb injectors. Same fuel feed line as Shelby and same HP potential.

DODGE HELLCAT / TRACKHAWKThe BOOST-A-PUMP® increases fuel pump flow up to 115% or 732L/HR. Our customers report over 1000 with E85 with only Injector Dynamics injectors and higher with Race Fuel which requires 40-50% less fuel by volume.

DODGE, CHRYSLER 5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 CHALLENGER, CHARGER, 300Supports 650-765RWHP with single pump, lines and rails and Kenne Bell 21V BOOST-A-PUMP®.

DODGE DEMONDodge went to 2 pumps for 840HP in Demon vs. 1 pump for 707HP in Hellcat. We offer the same proven Dual BOOST-A-PUMP® used on all those ‘07-’14 Shelby Gt500’s and 1000HP Shelby Super Snakes. Expect 100% higher fuel flow.

CAMARO 6.2 / 7.0Supports 688-800RWHP with single pump, lines & rails and Kenne Bell 21V BOOST-A-PUMP®.

2013 UP SHELBY GT500 (1100RWHP)Don’t get sucked into spending your hard earned money on new hats, pumps, lines, etc. The BOOST-A-PUMP® was tested at +970RWHP with stock fuel system and injectors and 1100RWHP with larger injectors.

2011 UP MUSTANG 5.0 / BOSS 302 / GT350Stock with BOOST-A-PUMP® vs. “340” pump(s). Tested by Muscle Mustangs Magazine at 854 RWHP with only a BOOST-A-PUMP®, stock pump, lines, rails and Injector Dynamics 100lb injectors. 100-160lb injectors make more. Note: BIG problem upgrading to a larger pump in the stock pump hat (can’t be disassembled). So single or dual 340’s require an expensive hat, return line, regulator, fittings, wiring and labor. BOOST-A-PUMP® increases stock pump 217L @ 12V to 435L @ 17.5V and 549L @ 21V at a fraction of the cost without sacrificing reliability. See why the BOOST-A-PUMP® concept continues to be so popular? See Pump Flow Comparisons on following page.

FORD PUMPSDUAL PUMP FLOW SUMMARY (L/HR, 60 PSI)BOOST-A-PUMP® vs NO BOOST-A-PUMP®

SHELBY GT 500, SUPER SNAKE, KR, FORD GT, 03 COBRA,

• ‘03 Cobra w/stock pumps use “Single” BOOST-A-PUMP® part# KB89069. OK to 750HP with 80 lb injectors.

* Ford GT, Ford GT FRP kit #M-9407 GT05 (Dual Shelby GT500 pumps), Shelby GT 500, KR, Super Snake use “Dual” BOOST-A-PUMP® part# KB89064, KB89064-20. OK to 920HP (17.5V) and 1000HP (21V) with 80 lb.

R = Return style RL = Returnless *KB89064, KB89069-17.5V KB89063/KB89070-20V

‘05-’06 FORD GT’07-’12 SHELBY GT 500‘13 UP SHELBY GT 500’03-’04 COBRA (SHELBY PUMPS)’05 UP MUST GT* ’99-’04 MUST* ‘03-’04 COBRA (STOCK PUMPS)

RL-2RL-2RL-2RL-2RL-2RL-2RL-2

300290380290280290194

548587761537530537360

750732961732730732483

2222221

DUALDUALDUALDUALDUALDUAL

SINGLE

KB89064-63*KB89064-63*KB89064-63*KB89064-63*KB89064-63*KB89064-63*KB89069-70*

FUELSYSTEM

&PUMPS

STOCK

12V 17.5V 21V

B A P B A P FPDM BOOST-A-PUMP®

TYPE PART NO

DUAL PUMPS60 PSI FLOW L/MIN

Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP’s are available in two voltages. Street 17.5V and Competition 21V. Consult us for recommendations and HP requirements.

There are other OEM and aftermarket pumps, but these pumps cover the entire range of flow. Some pumps (Walbro/Ti) were used on multiple OEM vehicles. Wiring size is the limitation. Note the huge 75-100% flow increases of any pump(s) using the BOOST-A-PUMP®.

Jodi/corelfiles\fuelpumptech.cdr rev 03/26/18

*The Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP® works with all the above listed OEM pumps and wiring. No expensive re-wiring billet hats, re-wiring or plumbing is necessary. Pumps shown with N/R are “Not Recommended.”

WARNING (Amperage)The Walbro and Aeromotive pumps used in either single or dual applications obviously produce more flow than stock pumps - BUT AMPERAGE IS MUCH HIGHER. Example: Up to 73% 14.2-17.2 vs 9.9 amps (Walbro GSS340). Therefore, the stock wiring system is incapable of handling the increased loads and must be upgraded or replaced. This higher pump amperage negates using the BOOST-A-PUMP™ and it’s 17.5-21V advantage. The BOOST-A-PUMP™ is not designed to operate these high amp aftermarket pumps. Check out the flow numbers and cost of the 2 approaches. You will see that it is difficult to beat the cost of a Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP®/Stock Pump combination for the overwhelming majority of applications.

WARNING (Pump Type)NEVER, NEVER switch between Gerotor (constant flow) and Turbine (pulse) type. The BOOST-A-PUMP® is designed to be equally efficient with both, but overall flow, efficiency and operation is severely affected WITH or WITHOUT the BOOST-A-PUMP®. Just don’t mix them.

TESTIMONIALSAdam Montaque, ST MOTORSPORTS 825RWHP “World’s Fastest PD Street Legal 3V 4.6 Mustang w/no NOS.” 9.50/142. Street Dual BOOST-A-PUMP® w/Ford #M907GT05 drop in dual pumps. Stock fuel lines and rails, 825RWHP, 60lb, 92% duty cycle. Adam’s back to back tests with Competition Dual BOOST-A-PUMP® - no other changes - lowered pumps duty cycle to a mere 62%! A whopping 32% reduction. That leaves lots of room to grow. (+200HP) with other mods such as NOS, stroker kits, bigger cams, etc.

Adam Montaque, ST Motorsports“I couldn’t believe the fuel this Competition (BOOST-A-PUMP®) system produces! The numbers don’t lie. I could run in the 8’s with this set up and NOS with no other changes. This is way more fuel than 99% of my customers will ever need! I also use the BOOST-A-PUMP® on my 6.1 Challenger (765RWHP), 6.2 Camaro (801RWHP) and Hellcat (1050RWHP with E85) with stock fuel system.”

Jon Lund, Jon Lund Racing“I recently tuned a Shelby GT500 with Kenne Bell 3.6LC. It developed 902HP at 88% duty cycle using only Competition BOOST-A-PUMP® and 23 psi boost. That leaves 12% safety factor. The car had stock Shelby pumps, fuel lines and rails with 80lb injectors.”

Tests at 60 psi (30 psi will result in higher flow ratings)

PUMP(S)

VOLTS L/HR

12 13.5 17.5 BAP 21V BAP

‘86-’95 5.0 Mustang GT‘96-’98 Cobra110 Walbro155 Walbro Lightning

‘03-’04 Cobra190 WalbroSVT Focus

‘99-’04 Mustang 2VCamaro LS3

Dual ‘03-’04 CobraCorvette

Dodge 5.7 ,6.1, 6.4 Hellcat/Trackhawk

Dodge DemonSingle GT500‘99-’01 Cobra

Ford GTWalbro GSS 340

‘11 up 5.0 Mustang GTDual ‘07-’12 GT500

Dual Ford GTDual ‘13-’14 GT500Aeromotive StealthWalbro F9000262Walbro F9000267

Dual Walbro GSS 340Dual Aeromotive StealthDual Walbro F9000262Dual Walbro F9000267

629296

100102104123148149148177181181340

196199199206217290299380242281320333369479544

78115119125127131161185184194204225217407

245227253257268387399469304352389420488596661

10017015.3160181212202270268291330326320

590L

359333366351435587605761N/RN/RN/RN/RN/RN/RN/R

125211190200226284246337345363443355401732

426413438440549732754961N/RN/RN/RN/RN/RN/RN/R

PUMP FLOW COMPARISONSFUEL FLOW RATINGSCAUTION:

We test at 60 psi, the pressure mos t new per fo rmance vehicles use. A 30 psi rating results in higher advertised ratings, but who uses only 30 psi? Note that an “advertised” 340L pump requires 17.5V to produce 340L at 60 psi. The Hellcat is a “real 340L” fuel pump @ 60 psi and 12V.