from kashmir to kanyakumari - the times of...

1
AGGING along with Prof Birendra Nayak for a day you notice right away that he is fast—very fast. Birendra walks, talks, and thinks with a slightly dizzying energy and efficiency. On a typical day you would see him leave home near Utkal University in Bhubaneshwar, where he teaches mathematics, and walk briskly toward his office. Once there, he would catch up on messages and talk with students and col- leagues, with attention and humour, but in a way that suggests that he is thinking a mile a minute and trying not to waste time. Why is this brilliant, outgoing, funny and down- to-earth professor in such a hurry? Well, he is a man on a mission. This scholar with a keen interest in so- cial science is committed to social justice as much as he is to mathematics, if not more, and wants to change the world in a radical and fundamental way. Prof Nayak is not a Naxalite or a political activist. He is a man who is not afraid to stand up for what he believes is right. “Birendra always fights against injustice and stand solidly behind you when you are in trouble for no fault of yours. He is last man to compromise on is- sues,” says Adwait Mohanty, who has retired as pro- fessor of economics in Utkal University. His deep interest and involvement in social issues have made Prof Nayak one of the foremost social sci- entists in Odisha. He thought that if, as a social scien- tist, he showed decisively that things were not just or fair, policy makers could be influenced. That’s not all. A social scientist who cares about justice should point out how to fix an unfair situation or a discriminatory process, he says. Also, you cannot wait for policymakers to come asking for your work; you need to seek them out and tell them. This explains Bikalpa Sandhani Mancha — a social platform he set up along with the late Pradumna Bal, the then editor of Pragatibadi, D P Dash and the Xavier Institute of Management, Bhubaneswar, to address issues related to Odia and Odisha. “Our objective was to bring people thinking of al- ternative development onto one platform to share ideas,” says Prof Nayak. “Till now, we have not given institutional form to the forum,” he adds proudly. In- stitutionalisation curbs creativity, says the occasion- al short story writer and music lover. “My father used to sing old numbers during my childhood days. He even he used to translate the lyrics of popular Hindi numbers into Odia and sing to himself,” says his eldest son, Soumya Dev. For Soumya, there is no change in his father’s lifestyle (“We will be surprised if he stays home for a longer period”) and no compromise on his principles (“He has always been protective about us, but never spares us if we are on the wrong side”). Prof Nayak’s radical roots lie in his feudal family background, which saw a lot of reforms due to his uncle’s involvement in the freedom movement. The village home at Kuanrpur near Jajpur town was a meeting place for the compatriots of his uncle. He grew up in Jamshedpur where his father was the secretary of a Tata Iron & Steel (Tisco) employees’ cooperative society. He was a shy and studious in his school days when he learnt Odia, Hindi, Bengali and Urdu. In 1967, he went to Ravenshaw College, Cuttack, and then to the Banaras Hindu University in 1970 to do post gradua- tion in mathematics. During his BHU days, he started writing poems, moved by the plight of down-trodden people. “But it took some time for me to mature in poetry writing. Societal orientation came only after my contact with Mr Dwarakanath Rath, an SUCI (Socialist Unity Centre of India) leader,” Prof Nayak says. That was in 1976, when Nayak joined Ravenshaw Evening College as mathematics lecturer, leaving IIT Kharagpur after pursuing doctorate on the mathe- matical aspects of relativity under the guidance of Prof R N Tiwari for two-and-half years. “My life took a different course…. Interactions with Dwarakababu provoked me to think about soci- ety and what is happening around me,” recalls Prof Nayak. His association with the likes of Tapas Dutt, Sitesh Dasgupta and other members of SUCI (its stu- dent wing DSO had a strong presence in colleges in the state) drew him closer to the Left ideology. “Tapas Dutta belonged to a well-to-do family and was a renowned sculptor. He left everything to work for the poor. Similarly, Sitesh Dasgupta was a great artist and his pencil drawings inspired one and all,” he says. “They were politicians of a different breed and they were not hypocrites.” Nayak’s foray into social science research was more by default than choice. When Dwarakanath made him the seminar secretary of Gopabandhu Centenary Committee, he read a lot about Utkamani Gopabandhu Dash, the freedom fighter, and his con- tribution to the people of Odisha. He studied about Gopabandhu Chaudhuri in 1995, when he had to deliver the Gopabandhu Chaudhuri centenary lec- ture. Again, he learnt about Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar when he had to write about the Bengali scholar’s contribution to Odisha on his 150th death anniversary. All these were great people who initiat- ed social reforms in Odisha. “I was taken aback when I found that Vidyasagar had a profound impact on doing away with widow marriage system in Orissa also,” says Nayak about one of his inspirations to work for the society. During 1994-2003, Prof Nayak’s provocative edi- torials in ‘Oriya and Orissa: Sameeksha’ provided an alternative perspective on development of the econ- omy, education, language and women, among other issues. ome of the issues this unassuming man dwelt with include regionalism in Odisha, post-independ- ence people’s movement, people welfare schemes – the myth and reality, women’s participation in Odisha in the 21st century, super cyclones that hit the state so very frequently, the shape of Odisha’s vil- lages in the 21st century and the staggering unem- ployment problem. His articles have come out in several publications such as Pragativadi daily and The Samadrusti fort- nightly. This multi-faceted talent has also composed Bele Bele Kavita, a book of satirical poems, and edited Vinna Drusti, a periodical priced Re 1. The famous Aal- tu Faltu cartoon team derives its intellectual inputs from him, while The Samadrusti and the Samadrusti Televisions’ Madhyantara video magazine are also guided by him. Nayak, however, has steadfastly avoided associa- tion with funded social organisations. In fact, he is critical of the activities of NGOs. “Honestly speaking I am not a mainstream person. As I give priority to freedom of thought and expres- sion, I do not think of joining ever any political party. But I am responsible through Bikalpa Sandhani Mancha to bring about closeness amongst activists seeking alternative to the present predatory econo- my,” says Nayak. He has been associated with organic rice and veg- etable production in Nariso where farmers, under the leadership of Natabar Sarangi, have successfully produced almost 350 varieties of indigenous rice seeds, without any support from anywhere. And, of course, he also teaches mathematics. And excels in that. “He has all the virtues of a teacher. He is an excellent teacher who inspires students and teaches effectively,” says Sudhakar Sahoo, one of his students and now an assistant professor, who de- scribes Prof Nayak as a friend, philosopher and guide. His articles have been published in journals such as the Physical Review, USA, Journal of Mathematical Physics, USA, Journal of Physics, Great Britain, Aus- tralian Journal of Physics, General Relativity and Gravitation (Plenum Press). Presently, he is pursuing research in areas such as Fractals, Chaos and Automata Theory. Prof Nayak was also the president of Orissa Mathematical Society in 2007 and 2008 and edited the Journal of Orissa Math- ematical Society and Ganita Bichitra for a few years. He is still active in conducting Mathematical Olympiad Test for school students organised by Na- tional Board for Higher Mathematics of Department of Atomic Energy. He was also a member of the Govern- ing Body of the Institute of Mathematics and Applica- tions, Bhubaneswar, a fundamental research institute. “Prof Nayak is possibly the best socio-economic analyst and political-philosopher in the state, not de- spite his mathematics background, but because of it; his analysis stands out because of its powerful logic,” says Professor Banikanta Mishra of Xavier Institute of Management, who considers Prof Nayak the guru who enlightened him about the realities of Orissa. But ever a silent worker, this ever humble and silent worker never makes a fuss about anything he does, never takes credit himself and never follows the camera around. 24 * THE ECONOMIC TIMES MUMBAI WEDNESDAY 30 DECEMBER 2009 This professor of Utkal University uses a mathematical approach to his first love: tackling social issues in the state , says Nageswar Patnaik T NEWS-STANDS are unlikely places for culinary insights. The few In- dian food magazines are usually uninteresting, obsessed with diets and vegetarian versions of Western dishes. Some general magazines are try- ing to perk up sales by alternating their endless sex surveys with food specials, but most of the articles, done by regular writers taking a food break, just tend to repeat the usual clichés about food. And newspapers seem to focus only on the five star or multicuisine restaurants that might advertise in them. Yet newspapers, if they want, can do much more. Their daily focus al- lows them to capture trends, and the fact that they reach households means that they can link to the ordinary food of people, rather than what restaurants offer. Newspapers that seek out food advice, tips and recipes from readers can become really valuable chroniclers of their eat- ing habits, especially if they compile them as a book. In Sri Lanka, for ex- ample, the Ceylon Daily News Cookbook is one of the standards for lo- cal cuisine. This is even truer for publications catering to small communities. Food binds communities together, and also involves the women who might otherwise get sidelined. In South Africa the Durban Post, the paper catering to the Indian community has become a great repository of South African Indian recipes. And now in Mumbai, a few days back at my regular newsstand outside Bandra station, I found something simi- lar in a compilation of the recipes of four Muslim communities put to- gether by Inquilab, a local Urdu newspaper. The recipes cover four communities: Bohra, Kashmiri, Konkani and Memon. They are utilitarian booklets with recipes in Urdu and English, and clearly meant mainly for Urdu readers, since only that is used for the index and write-ups of the lady contributors, whose beaming pic- tures are shown upfront (or from an English perspective at the back, since the page layout, even for the English recipes, is right to left). But Inquilab must be complimented for giving English versions at all, since these booklets underline the rarity of Muslim community cookbooks. There are a few. There are several Kashmiri cookbooks (though more often from a Pandit perspective). I have a photocopy of Dhaal-Chawal Palidu, a Bohra cookbook done by Shamime Lakda in the UK. A few years back Fatima Hooda put together Khoja Khan (BPI India). And Ummi Abdulla,who has done so much to preserve Moplah food in Kerala, has collected these recipes in her Malabar Muslim Cookery (Disha Books). There must be more, probably untranslated from Urdu, but in gen- eral Muslim community cook- books are few and hard to find. The Inquilab collection is the first I’ve ever seen of Memon and Konkani Muslim food. Of course, one could argue that Muslim cuisines get covered automati- cally in Mughlai, Hyderabadi and Avadhi (Luc- know) cook- books, as well as references in re- gional cook- books, like Kau- mudi Marathe’s recent one on Maharashtrian food which has a few Konkani Mus- lim recipes. One could also argue that some of the differences from the other food of that region are slight – the food of the Nagercoil Muslims in Tamil Nadu may not differ all that much from that of non-Brahmin communi- ties in that region, and the many sweets and snacks in Mrs Abdulla’s book are common with all North Kerala communities. But these Inquilab booklets show, I think, why there is still more about ordinary Indian Muslim cuisine that can be collect- ed. The Mughlai, Hyderabadi and Avadhi books are essentially about court cuisines, with recipes for rich birianis and desserts that would rarely appear on ordinary tables (and there are also Muslim court cuisines, like that of Bhopal, which are still little known). The Inquilab books are of middle class, mostly merchant communities which certainly have some special dishes for celebra- tions, as for example, the Royal Dhokla in the Memon book; it’s a complicat- ed dish of vegetables and bajra flour dumplings in a fish curry. But it is preced- ed by a Dhokla ka Salan, bajra dumplings in a simple vegetarian gravy, that sounds like it is everyday food. An interesting question is whether there is a specifically Muslim ele- ment to these dishes. The parallel is with Jewish food which, as Claudia Roden shows in her magnificent global collection has gone around the world, adapting to local ingredients and cooking habits, but always with a few Jewish tweaks. I think these recipes show that — most obviously, of course, in the many mutton recipes, but also perhaps in dishes like the Memon Randleli Roti, a mutton curry in which pieces of bajra roti are soaked. This quite possibly shows the influence of tharid , which Lil- ia Zaouali in her book Medieval Cuisines of the Islamic World, describes as being “a kind of national dish of the Arabs in the early years of Islam.” Tharid dishes simply consisted of bread pieces soaked in meat broth, “but because it was the preferred dish of the Prophet, it entered into Tradition (sunna), which every Muslim had to re- spect, maintain and hand down.” The bread in the Randleli Roti though is made from bajra, and that’s where the regional influ- ence comes in. The Memon recipes are quite recognisably from Kutch (Juna Gadhi Kebab), the Bohra recipes, in their similarity to Parsi ones show a common background in Gujarat, while the Konkani recipes for pomfret and bombil and for methi ke ladu place it firmly in a Maharashtrian context. There is much else to enjoy in these booklets, like the unembarassed- ly home food touches (fanta orange ice cream in the Bohra booklet), the tips like how to keep mixer blades sharp (once a month grind some salt in it) and even the vagueness, which is confusing for first time cooks, though typical of home recipes (some recipes just call for ‘spice’ without specifying which kind). But I think the real value, and the reason I hope Inquilab does a larger book, and other communities consider doing the same, is the way these recipes show how the roots of these communities lie firmly both in the Muslim world and in that of their region. ([email protected]) A set of new booklets by Inquilab paper shows that there is more to Muslim cooking Muslim recipes from Kashmir to Kanyakumari GARAM MASALA Food & Flavour BY VIKRAM DOCTOR Photo: SUBHAJIT PAL Published for the proprietors, Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. by R. Venkata Kesavan at The Times of India Building, Dr. D. N. Road, Mumbai 400001 and printed by him at The Times of India Suburban Press, Akruli Road, Western Express Highway, Kandivli (E), Mumbai - 400 101. Tel. No. (022) 6635-3535, 2273-3535 Response Ph: (022) 6635-3636, 2273-3636 Email [email protected] Fax (022) 2273-1144 Editor : Mr. Bodhisatva Ganguli. (Responsible for selection of news under PRB Act.) Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. TN/Chief PMG/400/2002 Air Charge: Goa, Nagpur & via Re. 1.00, Chennai & via Rs. 3.00, Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Mangalore & via Rs. 4.00, Delhi, Kolkata & via Rs. 5.00 NOT FOR SALE OUTSIDE INDIA Subscription rates: US $ 500 (annual), US $ 250 (half yearly) US $ 125 (Quarterly). Volume 49 No. 211 REGD. NOS. MH/MR/South - 92/2009-11 RNI No. 6252/1961 SOCIALLY YOURS FREEDOM FROM ECONOMICS

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Page 1: from Kashmir to Kanyakumari - The Times of Indiaepaper.timesofindia.com/Repository/ETM/2009/12/30/ETM_2009_12_30... · Again, he learnt about Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar when he had

AGGING along with Prof Birendra Nayak for a dayyou notice right away that he is fast—very fast.Birendra walks, talks, and thinks with a slightlydizzying energy and efficiency. On a typical day youwould see him leave home near Utkal University inBhubaneshwar, where he teaches mathematics, andwalk briskly toward his office. Once there, he wouldcatch up on messages and talk with students and col-leagues, with attention and humour, but in a waythat suggests that he is thinking a mile a minute andtrying not to waste time.

Why is this brilliant, outgoing, funny and down-to-earth professor in such a hurry? Well, he is a manon a mission. This scholar with a keen interest in so-cial science is committed to social justice as much ashe is to mathematics, if not more, and wants tochange the world in a radical and fundamental way.

Prof Nayak is not a Naxalite or a political activist.He is a man who is not afraid to stand up for what hebelieves is right.

“Birendra always fights against injustice and standsolidly behind you when you are in trouble for nofault of yours. He is last man to compromise on is-sues,” says Adwait Mohanty, who has retired as pro-fessor of economics in Utkal University.

His deep interest and involvement in social issueshave made Prof Nayak one of the foremost social sci-entists in Odisha. He thought that if, as a social scien-tist, he showed decisively that things were not just orfair, policy makers could be influenced.

That’s not all. A social scientist who cares aboutjustice should point out how to fix an unfair situationor a discriminatory process, he says. Also, you cannotwait for policymakers to come asking for your work;you need to seek them out and tell them.

This explains Bikalpa Sandhani Mancha — a socialplatform he set up along with the late Pradumna Bal,the then editor of Pragatibadi, D P Dash and theXavier Institute of Management, Bhubaneswar, toaddress issues related to Odia and Odisha.

“Our objective was to bring people thinking of al-ternative development onto one platform to shareideas,” says Prof Nayak. “Till now, we have not giveninstitutional form to the forum,” he adds proudly. In-stitutionalisation curbs creativity, says the occasion-al short story writer and music lover.

“My father used to sing old numbers during mychildhood days. He even he used to translate thelyrics of popular Hindi numbers into Odia and sing tohimself,” says his eldest son, Soumya Dev.

For Soumya, there is no change in his father’slifestyle (“We will be surprised if he stays home for alonger period”) and no compromise on his principles(“He has always been protective about us, but neverspares us if we are on the wrong side”).

Prof Nayak’s radical roots lie in his feudal familybackground, which saw a lot of reforms due to hisuncle’s involvement in the freedom movement. Thevillage home at Kuanrpur near Jajpur town was ameeting place for the compatriots of his uncle.

He grew up in Jamshedpur where his father wasthe secretary of a Tata Iron & Steel (Tisco) employees’

cooperative society.He was a shy and studious in his school days when

he learnt Odia, Hindi, Bengali and Urdu. In 1967, hewent to Ravenshaw College, Cuttack, and then to theBanaras Hindu University in 1970 to do post gradua-tion in mathematics.

During his BHU days, he started writing poems,moved by the plight of down-trodden people. “But ittook some time for me to mature in poetry writing.Societal orientation came only after my contact withMr Dwarakanath Rath, an SUCI (Socialist UnityCentre of India) leader,” Prof Nayak says.

That was in 1976, when Nayak joined RavenshawEvening College as mathematics lecturer, leaving IITKharagpur after pursuing doctorate on the mathe-matical aspects of relativity under the guidance ofProf R N Tiwari for two-and-half years.

“My life took a different course…. Interactionswith Dwarakababu provoked me to think about soci-

ety and what is happening around me,” recalls ProfNayak. His association with the likes of Tapas Dutt,Sitesh Dasgupta and other members of SUCI (its stu-dent wing DSO had a strong presence in colleges inthe state) drew him closer to the Left ideology.

“Tapas Dutta belonged to a well-to-do family andwas a renowned sculptor. He left everything to workfor the poor. Similarly, Sitesh Dasgupta was a greatartist and his pencil drawings inspired one and all,”he says. “They were politicians of a different breedand they were not hypocrites.”

Nayak’s foray into social science research wasmore by default than choice. When Dwarakanathmade him the seminar secretary of GopabandhuCentenary Committee, he read a lot about UtkamaniGopabandhu Dash, the freedom fighter, and his con-tribution to the people of Odisha. He studied aboutGopabandhu Chaudhuri in 1995, when he had todeliver the Gopabandhu Chaudhuri centenary lec-ture. Again, he learnt about Ishwar ChandraVidyasagar when he had to write about the Bengalischolar’s contribution to Odisha on his 150th deathanniversary. All these were great people who initiat-ed social reforms in Odisha. “I was taken aback whenI found that Vidyasagar had a profound impact ondoing away with widow marriage system in Orissaalso,” says Nayak about one of his inspirations towork for the society.

During 1994-2003, Prof Nayak’s provocative edi-torials in ‘Oriya and Orissa: Sameeksha’ provided analternative perspective on development of the econ-omy, education, language and women, among otherissues. ome of the issues this unassuming man dweltwith include regionalism in Odisha, post-independ-ence people’s movement, people welfare schemes –

the myth and reality, women’s participation inOdisha in the 21st century, super cyclones that hitthe state so very frequently, the shape of Odisha’s vil-lages in the 21st century and the staggering unem-ployment problem.

His articles have come out in several publicationssuch as Pragativadi daily and The Samadrusti fort-nightly. This multi-faceted talent has also composedBele Bele Kavita, a book of satirical poems, and editedVinna Drusti, a periodical priced Re 1. The famous Aal-tu Faltu cartoon team derives its intellectual inputsfrom him, while The Samadrusti and the SamadrustiTelevisions’ Madhyantara video magazine are alsoguided by him.

Nayak, however, has steadfastly avoided associa-tion with funded social organisations. In fact, he iscritical of the activities of NGOs.

“Honestly speaking I am not a mainstream person.As I give priority to freedom of thought and expres-sion, I do not think of joining ever any political party.But I am responsible through Bikalpa SandhaniMancha to bring about closeness amongst activistsseeking alternative to the present predatory econo-my,” says Nayak.

He has been associated with organic rice and veg-etable production in Nariso where farmers, underthe leadership of Natabar Sarangi, have successfullyproduced almost 350 varieties of indigenous riceseeds, without any support from anywhere.

And, of course, he also teaches mathematics. Andexcels in that. “He has all the virtues of a teacher. Heis an excellent teacher who inspires students andteaches effectively,” says Sudhakar Sahoo, one of hisstudents and now an assistant professor, who de-scribes Prof Nayak as a friend, philosopher and guide.

His articles have been published in journals such asthe Physical Review, USA, Journal of MathematicalPhysics, USA, Journal of Physics, Great Britain, Aus-tralian Journal of Physics, General Relativity andGravitation (Plenum Press).

Presently, he is pursuing research in areas such asFractals, Chaos and Automata Theory. Prof Nayak wasalso the president of Orissa Mathematical Society in2007 and 2008 and edited the Journal of Orissa Math-ematical Society and Ganita Bichitra for a few years.

He is still active in conducting MathematicalOlympiad Test for school students organised by Na-tional Board for Higher Mathematics of Department ofAtomic Energy. He was also a member of the Govern-ing Body of the Institute of Mathematics and Applica-tions, Bhubaneswar, a fundamental research institute.

“Prof Nayak is possibly the best socio-economicanalyst and political-philosopher in the state, not de-spite his mathematics background, but because of it;his analysis stands out because of its powerful logic,”says Professor Banikanta Mishra of Xavier Institute ofManagement, who considers Prof Nayak the guruwho enlightened him about the realities of Orissa.

But ever a silent worker, this ever humble andsilent worker never makes a fuss about anything hedoes, never takes credit himself and never followsthe camera around.

24 * THE ECONOMIC TIMES MUMBAI WEDNESDAY 30 DECEMBER 2009

This professor of Utkal University uses a mathematical approach to his first love:tackling social issues in the state , says Nageswar Patnaik

T

NEWS-STANDS are unlikely places for culinary insights. The few In-dian food magazines are usually uninteresting, obsessed with diets andvegetarian versions of Western dishes. Some general magazines are try-ing to perk up sales by alternating their endless sex surveys with foodspecials, but most of the articles, done by regular writers taking a foodbreak, just tend to repeat the usual clichés about food. And newspapersseem to focus only on the five star or multicuisine restaurants that mightadvertise in them.

Yet newspapers, if they want, can do much more. Their daily focus al-lows them to capture trends, and the fact that they reach householdsmeans that they can link to the ordinary food of people, rather thanwhat restaurants offer. Newspapers that seek out food advice, tips andrecipes from readers can become really valuable chroniclers of their eat-ing habits, especially if they compile them as a book. In Sri Lanka, for ex-ample, the Ceylon Daily News Cookbook is one of the standards for lo-cal cuisine.

This is even truer for publications catering to small communities.Food binds communities together, and also involves the women whomight otherwise get sidelined. In South Africa theDurban Post, the papercatering to the Indian community has become a great repository ofSouth African Indian recipes. And now in Mumbai, a few days back atmy regular newsstand outside Bandra station, I found something simi-lar in a compilation of the recipes of four Muslim communities put to-gether by Inquilab, a local Urdu newspaper.

The recipes cover four communities: Bohra, Kashmiri, Konkani andMemon. They are utilitarian booklets with recipes in Urdu and English,and clearly meant mainly for Urdu readers, since only that is used forthe index and write-ups of the lady contributors, whose beaming pic-tures are shown upfront (or from an English perspective at the back,since the page layout, even for the English recipes, is right to left). ButInquilab must be complimented for giving English versions at all, sincethese booklets underline the rarity of Muslim community cookbooks.

There are a few. There are several Kashmiricookbooks (though more often from a

Pandit perspective). I have a photocopyof Dhaal-Chawal Palidu, a Bohra

cookbook done by Shamime Lakdain the UK. A few years back FatimaHooda put together Khoja Khan(BPI India). And UmmiAbdulla,who has done so much topreserve Moplah food in Kerala,has collected these recipes in her

Malabar Muslim Cookery (DishaBooks). There must be more, probably

untranslated from Urdu, but in gen-eral Muslim community cook-

books are few and hard to find.The Inquilab collection is

the first I’ve ever seen ofMemon and Konkani

Muslim food. Of course, one

could argue thatMuslim cuisines getcovered automati-cally in Mughlai,Hyderabadi andAvadhi (Luc-know) cook-books, as well asreferences in re-gional cook-books, like Kau-mudi Marathe’srecent one on

Maharashtr ianfood which has a

few Konkani Mus-lim recipes. One

could also argue thatsome of the differences

from the other food ofthat region are slight – the

food of the Nagercoil Muslimsin Tamil Nadu may not differ

all that much from that ofnon-Brahmin communi-ties in that region, and themany sweets and snacksin Mrs Abdulla’s book arecommon with all NorthKerala communities.

But these Inquilab bookletsshow, I think, why there is still

more about ordinary IndianMuslim cuisine that can be collect-

ed. The Mughlai, Hyderabadi andAvadhi books are essentially about court

cuisines, with recipes for rich birianis and desserts that would rarely appear onordinary tables (and there are also Muslim court cuisines, like that of Bhopal,which are still little known). The Inquilab books are of middle class, mostlymerchant communities which certainly have some special dishes for celebra-tions, as for example, the Royal Dhokla in the Memon book; it’s a complicat-ed dish of vegetables and bajra flour dumplings in a fish curry. But it is preced-ed by a Dhokla ka Salan, bajra dumplings in a simple vegetarian gravy, thatsounds like it is everyday food.

An interesting question is whether there is a specifically Muslim ele-ment to these dishes. The parallel is with Jewish food which, as ClaudiaRoden shows in her magnificent global collection has gone around theworld, adapting to local ingredients and cooking habits, but always witha few Jewish tweaks. I think these recipes show that — most obviously,of course, in the many mutton recipes, but also perhaps in dishes likethe Memon Randleli Roti, a mutton curry in which pieces of bajra rotiare soaked. This quite possibly shows the influence of tharid , which Lil-ia Zaouali in her book Medieval Cuisines of the Islamic World, describesas being “a kind of national dish of the Arabs in the early years of Islam.”

Tharid dishes simply consisted of bread pieces soaked in meatbroth, “but because it was the preferred dish of the Prophet, itentered into Tradition (sunna), which every Muslim had to re-spect, maintain and hand down.” The bread in the Randleli Rotithough is made from bajra, and that’s where the regional influ-ence comes in. The Memon recipes are quite recognisably fromKutch (Juna Gadhi Kebab), the Bohra recipes, in their similarity toParsi ones show a common background in Gujarat, while theKonkani recipes for pomfret and bombil and for methi ke laduplace it firmly in a Maharashtrian context.

There is much else to enjoy in these booklets, like the unembarassed-ly home food touches (fanta orange ice cream in the Bohra booklet), thetips like how to keep mixer blades sharp (once a month grind some saltin it) and even the vagueness, which is confusing for first time cooks,though typical of home recipes (some recipes just call for ‘spice’ withoutspecifying which kind). But I think the real value, and the reason I hopeInquilab does a larger book, and other communities consider doing thesame, is the way these recipes show how the roots of these communitieslie firmly both in the Muslim world and in that of their region.

([email protected])

A set of new booklets by Inquilab papershows that there is more to Muslim cooking

Muslim recipesfrom Kashmir to

Kanyakumari

GARAM MASALA

Food & Flavour

BY VIKRAM DOCTOR

Photo: SUBHAJIT PAL

Published for the proprietors, Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. by R. Venkata Kesavan at The Times of India Building, Dr. D. N. Road,Mumbai 400001 and printed by him at The Times of India Suburban Press, Akruli Road, Western Express Highway, Kandivli (E),Mumbai - 400 101. Tel. No. (022) 6635-3535, 2273-3535 Response Ph: (022) 6635-3636, 2273-3636 Email [email protected] Fax(022) 2273-1144 Editor : Mr. Bodhisatva Ganguli. (Responsible for selection of news under PRB Act.) Reproduction in whole or inpart without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited.

TN/Chief PMG/400/2002

Air Charge: Goa, Nagpur & via Re. 1.00, Chennai & via Rs. 3.00, Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Mangalore & via Rs. 4.00, Delhi, Kolkata & via Rs. 5.00

NOT FOR SALE OUTSIDE INDIA

Subscription rates: US $ 500 (annual), US $ 250 (half yearly) US $ 125 (Quarterly). Volume 49 No. 211

REGD. NOS. MH/MR/South - 92/2009-11 RNI No. 6252/1961

SOCIALLY YOURSFREEDOM FROM ECONOMICS