for private circulation only kathiawad bhatia vidyarthi...

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July 2016

For Private Circulation Only

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Issue

Kathiawad Bhatia Vidyarthi Bhavan (Rajkot) prepares for Centenary Celebration

Editorial

Editor : Design & Layout Advisor : Haridas Raigaga : Dharmesh Gandhi Arun Bhatia

Inside this issue

Editor and DTP Artist of ENewsletter will retire after publishing 50 issues. YOUTH@GBF needs a young editor who can publish the ENewsletter with the help of DTP Artist on the Day 1 of every month. He/She must have Mass Media/Journalism experience/background. Knowledge/skill of Coreldraw and Photoshop is desirable. Initial training and guidance will be provided. This is an honorary job and only committed candidates who wants to serve the society should send their desire to [email protected]

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Bhatia Association (UK)’s offer

Great Indian Mathematicians

6 Classics of Indigenous Literature

From Rags to Riches

The Politics of the Afterlife

Jaya Devi - Bihar

Guftagu Band Na Ho (Gazal)

Craft villages of Kutch

Song from Gujarati Movie

Tersinh Udeshi

Chinese Embroidery on Silk

Bhatia Association (UK)’s offer

Chinese Embroidery on Silk

Source : Janmabhoomi


ARYABHATA :- (470 A.D.) He wrote his famous work Aryabhatiya in 499 A.D.in Kusumapura near Patna. The mathematical section of this book deals with an alphabetic numeral proposed by him, methods of solving simple and quadratic of the first degree. The book introduces sine and versine functions in trigonometry and gives a table of sines. It gives general rules of computing the sums of natural numbers and their squares and cubes. He gave a value 3.1416 for ð and said it is only approximate.He was the first in India to postulate that the earth is round, that it rotates on its axis creating day and night, that the moon shines due to the sunlight and finally the eclipses are due to the shadows cast by the earth and by the moon. In view of his immense contributions to astronomy, India's first satellite was name after him.VARAHAMIHIRA :- (490 A.D.) He is another great astronomer mathematician. Tradition says that the title of Varaha before his name Mihira by King Vikramaditya of Ujjain, since Mihira correctly predicted that the king's son would die at the age of 18. He is remembered for his revised version of the Indian calendar, which he corrected for the amount of precession accumulated since the writing of Surya Siddhanta. His contributions in mathematics were mainly in the area of trigonometry. His main works are PanchaSiddhantika, Brihatsamhita and Brihatjataka, an astrological work. He extended the work of Aryabhata on sine tables.BRAHMAGUPTA :- (598 A. D.) He was the court astronomer to Vikramaditya,the king of Ujjain. He wrote Bramhasphuta Siddhanta. It was a corrected and revised version of an older astronomical text, Brahma Siddhanta. His second work is Karnakhandakhadyaka. Both his works were mainly on astronomy, but contained considerable portions on mathematics. He may be said to be the founder of Numerical Analysis. He made several original contributions in algebra and trigonometry. Through a translation of his Bramhasphuta Siddhanta into Arabic, the Arabs and through them the West became aware of Indian contribution to astronomy and mathematics. The great mathematician Bhaskara conferred the title of Ganaka Chakra Chudamani, the gem of the circle of Mathematicians on Brahmagupta.

Some great Indian Mathematicians - Astronomers

MAHAVIRA :- (815 A.D.) This Jain mathematician belonged to the Mysore school. His contributions in the area of fractions, permutations and combinations and right angled triangles etc. The credit for giving formula for ncr goes to him. His work Ganitasara Sangraha is the culmination of the works of all the earlier Jain Mathematicians. It also summarised and extended the works of mathematicians- Aryabhata, Bhaskara-I and Brahmagupta.

thSRIDHARACHARAYA :- (Later half of the 10 century.) His work was in the area of arithmetic, mensuration and geometry, extraction of square roots, cube roots etc. he was the first to solve the quadratic equation in one variable. His work on arithmetic and geometric series became standard reference work.BHASKARACHARY :- (1114 A.D.) He was mathematician , astronomer of Ujjain school. He was known for the solut ion of Brahmagupta-Bhaskara equation

(indeterminate equation of the second order) by Chakravala method and his path breaking work on cyclic quadrilaterals.He wrote Siddhanta Shiromani when he was 36 years old. It consists of four separate books o n A r i t h m a t i c , A l g e b ra , Trigonometry and Astronomy. Bhaskara immortalized his widowed daughter Leelavati by naming a section of his book

after her. This book is translated twice into Persian. Karnakutuhala is his another important work.MADHAVA :- (1340-1425) He was the founder of the very famous Kerala school of mathematics. His well-known works are Venvaraha and Sphutachandrapti. In these works, rule of thumb solutions are given for the difficult problem of lunar motion. Later astronomers gave him the title Golavid i. e. Master of the sphere. His main contribution in mathematics include infinite series, expansion of circular trigonometric functions approximations to them. NEELAKANTHA SOMAYAJI :- (1445-1545 A.D.) he too belonged to the Kerala School. In his work AryabhatiyaBhashya , he tried to grasp the hidden meanings of Aryabhat's works, expound the principles, reconcile contradictions and point out wrong interpretations. His main work Tantra Sangraha was composed in the year 1500 A.D.

The native, vernacular literature of North East India is very rich. Here is a list of 6 books that not only won accolades but also are literary landmarks.

It is indeed a bit dif ficult to lay your hands on or find information on the literary masterpieces of the North East, partly because of the oral tradition, partly because of the sheer diversity of languages and dialects, and partly because the north east is a frequently overlooked region in the country. North East India has over 230 dif ferent dialects. The seven sisters perhaps far surpass any other state in that kind of diversity.

The North East was a colonial construct, but like every other colonial episteme that at times pervades the sense of being an Indian, the episteme of the distinctive and dif ferent north east is sadly, fairly popular. There are three native languages from the north east that are recognized as of ficial by the Indian State, namely, Assamese, Nepali and Manipuri. The rest are too diverse to be clubbed together and used by too small populations to be declared of ficial. But they do exist with unique significance and tradition that must not be overlooked.

Time and time again, people demonstrate a lack of knowledge towards the 'north east' but that is not just due to a lack of interest, but also a lack of resources and information in the 'mainstream'. Even though a lot of Indian English literature from the north east has come out and become popular, there is still a haze over the classics in the native languages. In this short list, we would like to introduce a few classics from the region.

The title literally means 'The divine sword' and it is based on the history of Tiwa Society, looking on their customs and traditions through a nuanced dexterity of characters. The protagonist is a woman, the queen of Pratapchandra, called Chandraprabha. The book gives a rare insight into the history of Assam through a social and cultural context, and goes through many generations of characters. It won the Sahitya Akademi award in 2008.

The book is originally writ ten in Kamrupi language, which is a dialect of Assamese. The author is known more thrugh her pen name which is Mamoni Raisom Goswami or Mamoni Baideo. The book has won the Jnanpith but the author has also won the Sahitya Akademi for Mamare Dhara Tarowal Aru Dukhan Upanyasa. The book revolves around the protagonist Giribaala and the world around her which is based in 20th century Kamrup. The book also deals with the binary of liberalism and traditionalism.

The title means 'Conquerer of Death' or 'Immortal'. Bhattacharya was the first recipient of the Jnanpith from Assam in 1979. The author has been the President of Assam Sahitya Sabha for a year. The title is not to be confused with a novel of the same name in Marathi which discusses the life of Karna from the Mahabharata. The author, Birendra

1. Deo Langkhui by Rita Chowdhury

2. Datal Hatir Unye Khuwa Howdah (The Termite/Moth Eaten Howdah of the Tusker) by Indira Goswami

3. Mrityunjaya by Birendra Kumar Bhattacharya

6 Classics of Indigenous Literature from North East India that you Should Know but Probably Don't

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Kumar Bhattacharya, himself had witnessed the Barapathar derailment that took place in 1942 and this is a fictitious tale on the same, about a the plan to derail a train carrying military of ficers in the sublime valley of the mighty Brahmaputra river in Panikhaiti.

The title crudely means 'The Princess and her political Agent' and is writ ten in Manipuri. It won the Sahitya Akademi award in 1979. The author has also won the Padma Bhushan in 1976. She was a member of Manipur's Royal family. The book is based on Manipur's King and his interactions with the British. The book does take an excellent sneak peak at history, especially at the women and their 'normal' for royalty and otherwise.

The book in Nepali is about the suf fering of poor villagers at the hand of upper crust citizens. It was writ ten in 1958. The background of the novel is set in the feudal social system that prevailed in Nepal prior to the 1951 political change. Lil Bahadur is a Gorkha writer from Assam and has won the the Sahitya Akademi award for his other

work Brahmaputrako Chheu Chhau. Bisain was made into a Nepali film in 2005 and the English translation of the book, 'Mountains Painted with Turmeric', came out in 2008.

The author won the Sahitya Akademi award for the novel in 1981. The novel explores the theme where inhabitants of the Nepali region are forced to seek their fortune elsewhere. The title literally translates to 'In search of new horizons or a moon' which suits the theme of the book as well. The book is a work of art but is also a popular entertainer.

4. Boro Saheb Ongbi Sanatombi by M.K. Binodini Devi

5. Basain by Lil Bahadur Chhetri

6. Naye Kshitij ki Khoj by Asit Rai

6 Classics of Indigenous Literature from North East India that you Should Know but Probably Don't

Manjula Vaghela's life is literally a story of rags to riches. This 60-year-old, who was a ragpicker until 1981, is now the proud head of a cleaners' cooperative with an annual turnover of Rs 1 crore.

Earlier, Manjula used to work on the streets of Ahmedabad, barely earning Rs. 5 in a day. Little did she know that she would become the guiding light for many.

The cleaners' cooperative headed by her has 400 members, most of them being former ragpickers. It provides cleaning and housekeeping services to 45 institutions and societies in Ahmedabad.

As a ragpicker, Manjula's work would begin at the crack of dawn. She would pick up her large gunny collection bag to scrounge and unearth recyclable materials from other people's waste. At the end of the day, she used to sell the entire collection to a scrap dealer. The only advantage in this job was that ragpickers always formed collectives of their own.

Her cleaners' cooperative called – Shri Saundarya Safai Utkarsh Mahila Sewa Sahkari Mandali Ltd (SSSUMSSML), initially consisted of 40 women. It was founded after Manjula and the women in her collective met Elaben Bhatt, the founder Se l f -Employed Women's Association (SEWA).

By the time SSSUMSSML was formed, Manjula had already been married and had a son. But tragedy struck suddenly, leaving her as the only breadwinner in the family.

“National Institute of Design was the first institution to give business to us. Next, Physical Research Laboratory (PRL) hired our 15 women,” said Manjula, who was then the chief supervisor.

Over the years, Saundarya Mandali has grown through several levels of training. They provide cleaning services in institutions of national repute, residential societies, and have also worked during Vibrant Gujarat summits in the past. The women now use modern equipment like road cleaners, vacuum cleaners, high-jet pressure, micro-fibre mops, floor cleaners, carpet shampooing machines, scrubbers and extractors.

The next target for them is to make illiterate women tech-savvy, to ensure that they can understand the e-tendering process.

“Today companies and institutes issue e-tender for contracts and job work which we find difficult to fill as we are technologically challenged. But we shall overcome this too,” Hemaben Parmar, who has been associated with Saundarya Mandali for the last 20 years, told The Times of India.

Manjula also managed to earn enough to put her son through school and medical college. He is a doctor today. The college where he studied recently honoured Manjula and her son.

From Rags to Riches, Literally! Story of a Ragpicker Who Now Heads a Firm

with Rs. 1 Cr. Turnover

While walking down the street one day, a high ranking politician is tragically hit by a truck and dies. His soul arrives in heaven and is met by St. Peter at the entrance.

"Welcome to Heaven," says St. Peter. "Before you settle in, it seems there is a problem. We seldom see a high official around these parts, you see, so we're not sure what to do with you.""No problem, just let me in," says the politician ."Well, I'd like to but I have orders from higher up. What we'll do is have you spend one day in Hell and one day in Heaven. Then you can choose where to spend eternity.”

"Really, I've made up my mind. I want to be in Heaven," says the politician.

"I'm sorry but we have our rules." And with that, St. Peter escorts the politician to the elevator and he goes down, down, down to Hell. The doors open and he finds himself in the middle of a green golf course. In the distance is a club and standing in front of it are all his friends and other politicians who had worked with him, everyone is very happy and in evening dress.

They run to greet him, hug him, and reminisce about the good times they had while getting rich at the expense of the people. They play a friendly game of golf and then dine on lobster and caviar. Also present is the Devil, who really is a very friendly guy and has a good time dancing and telling jokes.

They are having such a good time that, before he realizes it, it is time to go. Everyone gives him a big hug and waves while the elevator rises. The elevator goes up, up, up and the door reopens on Heaven where St. Peter is waiting for him.

"Now it's time to visit Heaven." So 24 hours pass with the politician head of state joining a group of contented souls moving from cloud to cloud, playing the harp and singing. They have a good time and, before he realizes it, the 24 hours have gone by and St. Peter returns.

The Politics of the Afterlife

"Well then, you've spent a day in Hell and another in Heaven. Now choose your eternity."He reflects for a minute, then the head of state answers: "Well, I would never have thought it, I mean Heaven has been delightful, but I think I would be better off in Hell.”

So Saint Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes down, down, down to Hell. Now the doors of the elevator open and he is in the middle of a barren land covered with waste and garbage. He sees all his friends, dressed in rags, picking up the trash and putting it in black bags. The Devil comes over to the politician and lays an arm on his neck.

"I don't understand," stammers the politician. "Yesterday I was here and there was a golf course and club and we ate lobster and caviar and danced and had a great time. Now all there is a wasteland full of garbage and my friends look miserable.”

The Devil looks at him, smiles and says, "Of course! Yesterday we were campaigning. Today you voted for us!”

Donald Trump by Arun Bhatia, Bangalore

She was just 12 when she got married. After this, she not only went on to change her life but also led to the development of her entire village. From fighting with Naxalites to planting trees and doing rain water harvesting, Jaya Devi is truly the “Green Lady” of Bihar.

Jaya Devi was just 12 when she got married and 16 when she delivered a baby girl. Like many others, she could have just remained another child bride of Bihar. But she chose a different path to become the “Green Lady” of Bihar instead.

She was forced to discontinue her studies due to Naxalites' threats and faced many other struggles while growing up. But Jaya was not a regular girl. She was determined to change the situation of her life and the village she lived in.

One day, during a regular medical checkup, she shared her desire to bring a change with the nurse. The lady advised her to form a group as fighting alone in Bihar was not an easy task. She then set up a Self Help Group in 1997 in Saradhi village of Bihar to help marginalised communities, especially women, avoid money lenders and become financially independent.

“Being a tribal woman, I have seen Naxal attacks and all the struggles. Everyone had to live at their mercy. I was determined to change the situation. I wanted my villagers to become financially stable,” she says.

She started with bringing women together and helping them save money. A large part of her work revolved around freeing her villagers from the grip of moneylenders. She enabled women to educate themselves, send their children to school and take advantage of already existing schemes of the government.

From getting their ration card and ID card made to fighting for the rights of the tribals and raising her voice against sexual violence, Jaya Devi was everywhere and helped the villagers in many amazing ways.

“The major problem with the village was that there was no source of income. The entire harvest was dependent on rain which was very uneven. So we started rain water harvesting,” she says.

She met a social worker from a nearby village, Kishore Jaiswal, who introduced her to the various methods of rain water conservation. Jaya brought the villagers

How Jaya Devi used Rain Water Harvesting to Fight Naxalites & Moneylenders in her Village in Bihar

together and constructed a tank to catch the rain water. She also managed to get people to give “shramdaan” (voluntary labour) and construct the tank all by themselves.

Her efforts started to gradually show results. The well irrigated fields gave bumper crops in the next season, which raised the confidence of the farmers and encouraged them to submit a proposal to NABARD.

Inspired by their efforts, NABARD came forward to support them and helped in the construction of six more tanks in the village. “For every Rs.100 worth of work, the villagers contributed Rs.16 as 'shramdaan' and the rest of the cost was borne by NABARD,” she says.

Not only this, to take their efforts to a new level, the villagers laid an 800-feet pipeline to bring water from the Kareli hills to the ground. This project was a huge success and gave a good boost to agricultural growth in that low rainfall area.

She got villagers on board to give 'shramdaan' and start rain water harvest“It was really hard to reach this far. In a community where child marriage still prevailed, people were not literate and had no awareness about new methods of agriculture. Getting them on board to try new things and take charge was a challenge. But thanks to everyone's support, we managed to do it,” she says.

With the success of their initiatives, the face of the village changed. People, especially women, became self-dependent, confident and empowered. The farmers got together to fight for their rights and got liberated from the money lenders. Children started going to school and women too learnt to write their names. With their constant efforts, the soil became

How Jaya Devi used Rain Water Harvesting to Fight Naxalites & Moneylenders in her Village in Bihar

more fertile and gave a better harvest too.“The change was gradual but evident. Women's health was improving because they paid more attention to it now. Rain water was utilised properly which helped in getting better crops. We also trained the women to start some small-part time businesses like making home-made chyavanprash,” she says.In the future, Jaya Devi wants to work towards the betterment of her village and her people. She wants to stop the migration to cities and enable people to earn a better income.

“I want to educate all the children, especially girls, stop child marriage, and more than anything, I want to provide safety to the villagers. We have been living in threat our entire lives due to the Naxalites. We need the support of people and the government to fight this,” she says.

Jaya Devi is a remarkable example of how strong a woman can be. And no matter what comes her way, she will always achieve her goals. We congratulate Jaya Devi for her tremendous efforts and hope to see many more amazing change makers like her.Her love for nature enabled her to spread awareness about tree plantation, and she, along with the help of the villagers, planted over 1 lakh trees in her village and nearby areas.

She got villagers on board to give 'shramdaan' and start rain water harvesting.

“It was really hard to reach this far. In a community where child marriage still prevailed, people were not literate and had no awareness about new methods of agriculture. Getting them on board to try new things and take charge was a challenge. But thanks to everyone's

support, we managed to do it,” she says.

With the success of their initiatives, the face of the village changed. People, especially women, became self-dependent, confident and empowered. The farmers got together to fight for their rights and got liberated from the money lenders. Children started going to school and women too learnt to write their names. With their constant efforts, the soil became more fertile and gave a better harvest too.

“The change was gradual but evident. Women's health was improving because they paid more attention to it now. Rain water was utilised properly which helped in getting better crops. We also trained the women to start some small-part time businesses like making home-made chyavanprash,” she says.

In the future, Jaya Devi wants to work towards the betterment of her village and her people. She wants to stop the migration to cities and enable people to earn a better income.

Jaya Devi has received many awards and recognition for her enormous contribution

“I want to educate all the children, especially girls, stop child marriage, and more than anything, I want to provide safety to the villagers. We have been living in threat our entire lives due to the Naxalites. We need the support of people and the government to fight this,” she says.

Jaya Devi is a remarkable example of how strong a woman can be. And no matter what comes her way, she will always achieve her goals. We congratulate Jaya Devi for her tremendous efforts and hope to see many more amazing change makers like her.

This poem, in Urdu, was written by Ali Sardar Jafri on the occasion of the 1965 war between India and Pakistan. Jafri was a member of the Progressive Writers Association led by the Communist Party of India while PC Joshi was the General Secretary.

GUFTGOO BAND NA HO

BAAT SE BAAT CHALEY SUBH TAK SHAAM-E-MULAAQAAT CHALEY HUM PE HANSTI HUEE YE TAARON BHARI RAAT CHALEY WO JO ALFAAZ KE HAATON MEIN HAI SANG-E-DUSHNAAM TANZ CHALKAAYE TO CHALKAAYAA KAREIN ZAHR KE JAAM TEEKHI NAZREIN HOON TURSH ABROO-E-KHAMDAAR RAHEY BAN PADEY JAISEY BHI DIL SEENON MEIN BE-DAAR RAHEY BE-BASI HARF KO ZANJEER BA-PAA KAR NA SAKEY KOI QAATIL HO MAGAR QATL-E-NAWAA KAR NA SAKEY SUBH TAK DHAL KE KOI HARF-E-WAFAA AAYEGAA ISHQ AAYEGAA BA-SAD LAGHZISH-E-PAA AAYEGAA NAZREIN JHUK JAAYEINGI DIL DHADKEINGEY LUB KAANPEINGEY KHAMUSHI BOSA-E-LUB BAN KE BAHAK JAAYEGI SIRF GHUNCHON KE CHATAKNEY KI SADAA AAYEGI

AUR PHIR HARF-O-NAWAA KI NA ZAROORAT HOOGI

Guftagu Band Na Ho (Let's Keep On Talking!) Ali Sardar Jafri

CHASHM-O-ABROO KE ISHAARON MEIN MOHABBAT HOGI NAFRAT UTH JAAYEGI, MEHMAAN MURAWWAT HOGI HAATH MEIN HAARH LIYE, SAARAA JAHAAN SAATH LIYE TUM PYAAR KI SAUGHAAT LIYE REGZAARON SE ADAAWAT KE GUZAR JAAYEINGEY KHOON KE DARYAA SE HUM PAAR UTAR JAAYEINGEY GEGUFTGOO BAND NA HO

ENGLISH TRANSLATION:

Keep the conversation going.One word leading to another.The evening rendezvous lasting till dawn,The starry night laughing down with us.Though we hurl our stones of abuse,Pass around poisoned cupsBrimming with taunts,Gaze steely-eyed at each other,None of this matters.Though we are helpless,Just keep our heartsWarm and beating.Don't let wordsBe stifled with helplessness.Don't let voices be murdered.By dawn some word of loveIs bound to emerge.Love will be victorious,It surely will.Our hearts will stir,Mouths tremble,And eyes well with tears.Silence will perfumeLike a kiss,And will resoundWith the sound of opening buds.No need for talk,When eyes glow with loveHate will leave for everGiving way to affection.


Handicrafts are a living tradition of Kachchh and the girls of various communities make beautifully embroidered garments for their own trousseaus while women produce attractive fabrics for a second income. Some visitors to villages near Bhuj are disappointed to find that the previously nomadic tribes are being housed in whitewashed urban housing in expanded older villages that are losing their traditional architecture. Cement and modern materials are replacing mud walls and cow dung. However, the handicrafts of these villages are still of a high standard.North of BhujThe vast grasslands of Banni meet the Great Rann in the Khavda region, north of Bhuj. They are home to numerous pastoral nomadic, semi-nomadic and resident people who keep sheep, goats, camels, buffaloes and other livestock. The 40 or so hamlets here are best known for the minute detail of their embroidery. More recently, these villages have started focusing on selling handicrafts as their main source of income and there are signs of modernization and commercialization. The traditional bhungas (circular huts with sloping thatched roofs) are made from mud plastered with cow dung which are often decorated with hand-painted floral patterns and inlaid with mirrors during festivals. Traditional utensils are still used for cooking, eating and storage in the houses. The area is known for its raptors - eagles, vultures and other birds of prey.Dhorodo- 80 km north, is the centre for Mutua embroidery, using chain stitches inset with small mirrors, leather embroidery as well as silver jewellery.Sumrasar - 25 km northeast, is famous for its Ahir embroidery and Soof embroidery of the Sodhas, done without a plan but by counting the warp and weft of the material. Kala Raksha (, www.kala-raksha.org)- , is a grassroots organization that maintains a small museum of heirloom textiles. It works with and trains 180 artisans to create contemporary pieces inspired by their own traditions. It is now run by Judy Frater, the American author of Threads of Identity Tunda Vandh - is a good place to see typical bhungas of Kachchh. Architecture students come to see, study and photograph the traditional architecture adapted to this hostile climate. The interiors have beautiful Rabari cupboards, chests, inlaid mirrors and paintings.Loria (Ludia), 60 km away, has huts with painted and mirror inlaid walls, and is famed for its wood crafts. Zura , 30 km, produces embroidered footwear and other leather crafts. Copper bells are also made in this village. Nirona - , 40 km northwest, has embroidery, lacquered wood crafts, wood carving and is the only home of highly skilful rogan- painting (fabrics painted using iron rods). Buses from Bhuj take about 1½ hours.

Hodka - 63 km north, is the site of an indigenous tourism project, with a resort comprising tents and traditional Bhungas built in traditional style, owned and run by the village in cooperation with hospitality professionals and KMVS. Local guides show visitors around the village, providing ample opportunity to interact with the residents, and to buy embroidery direct from the artisans.Nakhtarana- northwest in the heart of the craft village belt, produces some tie-dye work. There is a Chinkara Sanctuary at Narayan Sarovar , 110 km further west, and Lakhpat , close to the Pakistan border, the remains of a port left stranded when the Indus shifted course following the 1890 earthquake.Charri Dund Lake - a reservoir near Charri village, offers splendid birdwatching opportunities. Flamingos, pelicans, cranes, storks, ducks and other water birds gather in large numbers, especially in winter, while nearby grasslands are filled with passerine and ground dwelling birds. The Banni grasslands are known for their huge eagle and vulture congregations. T h e B o m b a y N a t u r a l H i s t o r y S o c i e t y (www.bnhs.org)- and other organizations monitor bird migrations in the Banni region, and bird-banding camps are set up around Charri Lake. The grasslands are home to wolf, hyena, jackal, Indian and desert foxes and lesser wild cats but are imperilled by the government's decision to convert Banni into pastureland.Dholavira - is the site of excavation of a Harappan town (pre-2500 BC) which some estimate to be larger than Moenjodaro, in Pakistan. It was only discovered in 1967 and excavation began in 1990. The drive to Khadir beyt, an oasis in the Great Rann, through dazzling salt flats is very scenic. Excavations reveal interesting new finds on a regular basis and show the complex to be on three levels (Citadel, Middle and Lower Towns) with pottery, stone cutting, coppersmithing, drainage systems and town planning at an advanced level. The fortifications with walls, bastions and double ramparts reflect danger from invasions or enemies. An inscribed tablet found here bears 10 letters in the Harappan script, claimed to be the oldest signboard in the world. South of BhujThere are a number of interesting villages south of Bhuj en route to Gandhidham, including the craft honeypots of Bhujodi and Mandvi on the coast.Bhujodi-, 10 km southeast, off the main road and a 10-minute walk from the bus stand, is the centre for pitloom weaving. The weavers have now been organized into a co-operative. They produce colourful galichas (carpets),


durries (rugs),dhablos (blankets), and other items from wool, camel and goat hair, cotton and even synthetic fibres. Some embroidery and tie-dye can be seen here as well. Mr Vanka Kana Rabari has reasonably priced local embroidery and other items but not the most select quality. Shrujan ( www.shrujan.org)- run by the astute Daya Nathani, is another pioneer behind the revival in high-quality Kachchhi handicrafts; the shop sells upmarket embroideries and home furnishings.Kutch Craft Centre is another great centre that has revived all the arts of kutch and provided earning opportunities to the artisans.Padhdhar- 22 km southeast of Bhujodi, produces Ahir embroidery using round mirrors with floral and geometrical patterns. Dhaneti - is also a centre for Ahir and Rabari embroidery. Meet Govindbhai, a local entrepreneur, and his friendly family who will show you the embroidered and mirror inlaid fabrics made for their own use. There are some intricate pallias (hero stones) by the village lake.Dhamanka- 50 km east of Bhuj, is famous for its block printed fabrics, table and bed linen and garments using vegetable or chemical dyes. Used blocks can be bought here which make good decorative pieces.Anjar - 22 km southeast, was an early Jadeja Rajput capital of Kachchh, founded 450 years ago. The Jesal-Toral shrine has a romantic tale of the reform of an outlaw prince through the love of a village girl. Anjar is also known for its metalcrafts, especially betel nut crackers and ornaments, bandhni and block printing. The 1818 Bungalow of Captain McMurdoch, the first European to settle in Kachchh, now government offices, has some Kamangari paintings on the ground floor.

The devastating earthquake in January 2001, which hit 7.7 on the Richter scale and claimed around 20,000 lives, had its epicentre a few kilometres from this old walled town with its tightly packed maze of narrow winding streets. Much was destroyed, and most of the town's picturesque heritage buildings suffered extensive damage. Some of the structures described below are being restored by experts, but a number of treasures have been lost permanently. Walking through the old palaces, where debris of stone pillars and carved wooden screens still lies scattered in piles on the ground, can be a haunting experience.

Vast amounts of money and manpower have been poured into Bhuj for the recovery effort, and the rapidly transforming town has gained prosperous-looking new suburbs, a university and a new broad-gauge railway

BHUJ

line - perhaps at the cost of some of its cultural uniqueness. Nevertheless, it still forms a hub of trade for scores of tribal villages, and visitors can expect a genuine warm welcome from a town still getting back on its feet.Among the old buildings in the citadel is the palace of Rao Lakha (circa 1752), the fortunate patron of Ramsingh Malam, who after his European adventures became a master clockmaker, architect, glass-blower, tile-maker and much more. A large white mansion with carvings and fretwork, the palace contains a Darbar Hall, State Apartments and the noted Aina Mahal (Mirror Palace)- Some items such as glass paintings have been destroyed, but the exquisite ivory inlaid doors (circa 1708), china floor tiles and marble walls covered with mirrors and gilt decorations could be restored. The Fuvara Mahal (Music Room) is a curiosity. Surrounded by a narrow walkway, the pleasure hall is a shallow tiled pool with a central platform where the Maharao sat in cool comfort to listen to music, watch dancers or recite his poetry. With its entrance shielded from the hot sun, the candlelit interior with embroidered wall hangings provided a welcome refuge. Ingenious pumps raised water to the tank above to feed the pool with sprinkling fountains. Restoration work is scheduled, so telephone Mr Jethi to check on opening.Rao Pragmalji's Palace (Prag Mahal; built 1865) in red brick, is across the courtyard. The elaborate anachronism was designed by the British engineer Colonel Wilkins (though some guides will say by an Italian architect). It contained a vast Darbar Hall, with verandas, corner towers and zenanas all opulently decorated with carving, gilding, Minton tiles and marble. The upper floors suffered serious damage in the earthquake. There are good views of the surrounding countryside from the tall clock tower connected to the palace by covered galleries. The colourful Swaminarayan Temple is behind the Palace near the lake.The Italianate Kachchh Museum (1877), near Mahadev Gate, is the oldest in Gujarat. Recently ungoing refurbishment, exhibits include the largest collection of Kshatrap inscriptions (the earliest, of AD 89), textiles and an anthropological section. Anyone interested in local traditional folk music and instruments may contact Mr UP Jadia here.Bharatiya Sanskriti Darshan is a small, delightful Folk Museum and Reference Library. The collection of 4500 exhibits includes traditional handicrafts, textiles, weaponry and other historic and artistic artefacts, as well as a recreated village of typical Kachchhi bhungas (huts) of different communities. Kutch - People and their handicrafts, by PJ Jethi (Rs 100), and postcards are for sale.


Sarad Bagh Palace-west of Hamirsar, the last residence of the Maharao (died 1991) is set in lovely gardens. Exhibits include furniture and exotic ornaments. Further south, the Maharaos' chhatterdis (memorial tombs), built of red sandstone, were severely damaged in the 1819 earthquake and again in 2001. Some are beyond repair. Ramkund, nearby, has a stone-lined tank with carvings of Hindu deities.Qasab - , a collective of 1200 craftswomen from 130 local villages who are practising and refining their traditional skills to produce high- quality Indian and Western clothes, home furnishings and leather goods. The women market the products themselves, bypassing an intermediary, thus controlling the speed and quality of production and achieving a fairer deal for themselves and their producer group.Around Bhuj, Rudrani Dam has the colourful Rudramata Temple , originally 17th century, nearby. The goddess Sati's 'rudra' (frightening) aspect is believed to be established in this temple.

Mandvi, 54 km southwest of Bhuj, is a pretty little seaside town, with a reservoir in the centre and a river beyond. During the 18th century the town outclassed Bhuj in importance, the sea-faring people dominating the sea trade, taking cotton, rice, spices, etc to the Persian gulf, Arabia and Zanzibar. The skill of building dhows and boats using simple tools is being revived along the river - worth having a look.The town is now a centre for handicrafts like bandhani tie-dyed fabrics, jewellery and shell toys. It is a desert town but important agricultural research for the Kachchh region is being carried out here in the Gujarat Agricultural University and the Vivekenand Research Institute, to improve farming in the often hostile environment. There is an 18th-century palace with an Aina Mahal (Mirror Hall) and music rooms which have remains of intricate stone carvings of Dutchmen, tigers and dancing girls and woodcarvings in the courtyard. The magnificent 1940s Vijay Vilas Palace with huge domes, combines Indian and European styles. You can see the drawing room with royal memorabilia, and the attractive jali windows of the zenana. The terrace, reached by a spiral staircase, with excellent sea views, especially at sunset, is ideal for a picnic. The beaches on the town side are good for swimming and even camel or horse riding. A wind farm next to the beach is working hard to produce an alternative energy source. The Maharao's pleasant private beach is open to visitors and worthwhile for women, to escape hassle from male onlookers. Out of town, you can visit a magnificent new Jain temple.

MANDVI

Little Rann of Kachchh Sanctuary

The 4950-sq-km wild ass sanctuary of the Little Rann of Kachchh (created in 1973) and the 7850-sq-km desert wildlife sanctuary of the Great Rann together would comprise the largest contiguous tract of protected wildlife territory in India were it not divided by a road. The Little Rann is mostly a saline wilderness, broken by beyts (islands during the monsoon) covered with grass, bushes, acacia and thorn scrub. The area is under severe threat from the salt works, which clear the vegetation, release toxic effluents into the wetlands and pollute the air. A fast-growing thorn scrub - Prosopis juliflora - is destroying most other vegetation.This is the last home of the Asiatic wild ass (locally called khacchar or ghorker), a handsome pale chestnut brown member of the wild horse family with a dark stripe down the back. Wild asses are usually seen as lone stallions, small groups of mares or harems of a male with mares. Large herds of 40-60 are sometimes seen but they are loosely knit. Males fight viciously, biting and kicking, for their females. Nilgai, antelope and chinkara (Indian gazelle) are other mammals seen, but the chinkara numbers have dwindled due to poaching. Blackbucks have become almost extinct in the Little Rann of Kachchh but are seen in villages nearby. Wolf is the primary predator, though not common. You might spot jackal, desert fox, jungle and desert cat on a drive. Birdlife is abundant. Houbara bustard, spotted and common Indian sand grouse, nine species of larks, desert warbler, desert wheatear, Indian and cream coloured courser, grey francolin and five species of quails are spotted at the beyts. The salt marshes teem with flamingos, pelicans, storks, ducks, herons and wading birds. Thousands of demoiselle and common eastern cranes spend the winter here. Wear strong footwear when walking in this area as prosopsis thorns can pierce through thin-soled shoes.Around Little Rann of Kachchh SanctuaryThe 13th-century Jhinjwada fort, on the edge of Little Rann west of Dasada, has majestic gateways. At the southeast corner of the Rann, Kharaghoda, southwest of Dasada on the way to Bajana Lake, is particularly interesting. The principal British salt trading post with an old village-pony express, it retains plenty of colonial architecture including Raj bungalows, a cricket pavilion and a bandstand. Dasada is a convenient base for visits to the Little Rann. The interesting village has an old fort with wood carvings, 15th-century tombs, potters, a shepherd's colony and nomadic settlements. The Malik Dynasty, who received the 56 km estate in return for military services to the sultan of Ahmedabad, now live in a 1940s mansion, Fatima Manzil.

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