Food in Surat Thani 1

Thailand is known around the world for many things: beautiful

beaches and islands, friendly people, and of course… the delicious

resident cuisine. Thai food, known for accentuating spices and merging

salty, sweet, sour, and spicy tastes together, creates a unique and

powerful arrangement of flavors in every dish. Surat Thani is the

perfect place to experiment with your palette and sample the wide array

of food offered in Thailand.

Traditionally, the south of Thailand is known for its spicy food and

Surat Town definitely has plenty of it. However, because Surat is the

travel hub of southern Thailand and is also near the ocean there is a

broad spectrum of influences in the local eats. From southern-style

seafood to northern-style Isaan food, this city has it all; and not just Thai

food.

It’s easy to see that Thailand has been influenced throughout

history by many other countries in the region. These influences are

seen not only in Thai culture, but also in Thai cuisine. The Thai people’s

hunger for ethnic variety brings a great selection of food to Surat from

other countries. No matter what you’re in the mood for, Surat has it. It’s

easy to find Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian, and even

Western food.

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Aside from offering a wide assortment of ethnic flavors, hungry

people in Surat also have several different types of eateries they’re able

to choose from. Surat Thani has everything from “street meat” from a

food cart to fine dining, depending on what you’re looking for. The

objective of this article is to profile the many different foods available in

town, as well as the best places to eat them.

Surat Thani is a big city and there are literally thousands of places

to eat and it would be impossible to review them all. In an effort to be

most helpful to Super English teachers, this article will mostly focus on

areas near Super housing where the teachers live, as well as near the

schools where the teachers work.

Teacher reviews, suggestions, and interviews are also included to

help give a better description and to offer recommendations on what

and where to eat in Surat. When first arriving in Thailand, it can be

difficult to order food without knowing some basic Thai. Therefore, this

food profile will also cover the approximate prices of specific meals and

how to order them in Thai so that Super teachers new to Surat will have

an easier and more enjoyable time.

That being said, LET’S GET STARTED! This is Thailand so we’ll

kick things off with Thai food in Surat. The Thai food section will be

Food in Surat Thani 3 broken down into different parts. The first one will be where most

people will eat most of their meals: the hole-in-the-wall, small Thai-style

rice or noodle shops. In general, these eateries are quick, cheap, and

once you get a taste for what they offer… delicious! However, they

usually don’t have an English menu and it’s hit or miss if the staff speak

any English so it’s a good idea to know how to ask for what you want in

Thai (see the recommended dishes).

You may also notice that the names of some of these places are a

little strange. That’s because for most places the name is in Thai (and

most of us teachers don’t have the ability to read Thai script), so we give

them nicknames to be able to tell them apart (i.e. “Corner Guy” is an

awesome little food shack run by a guy on the corner of Amphur and

Chalokratt… get it?). Everything else should be pretty straightforward.

After the “hole-in-the-wall” places are covered, we’ll move on to

good restaurants in town, the different ethnic options, snacks, fruit, and

the night market and pier area. Towards the end of this food profile,

you will find where I wrote a basic survival guide to ordering Thai food.

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“Hole-in-the-Wall Eateries”

Name:“Rice Soup” (breakfast) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) From the Big House head up Chalokratt to the intersection and make a right on Amphur. It’s about 30 meters down Amphur on the left-hand side, opposite the bakery. Short review: This is hands down the best breakfast spot in Surat. Their specialty is traditional Thai-style rice soup with pork or egg (delicious!) and homemade, fresh donuts. They also have omelets or scrambled eggs. The coffee is okay and tea is complimentary. Recommended dishes: “Kao tom” (rice soup), donuts w/ condensed milk Approximate cost per dish: rice soup w/ coffee = 30 baht; add 8 donuts for another 10 baht! (<$1 USD)

Customer comments:“The family that runs the rice soup establishment on Amphur is more or less my second family. I've been hooked ever since I tried their food, and I've gone back practically every day since - for the food and for the company. They always remember my order (rice soup with egg but no pork, coffee or tea, and 2 donuts), and there's even been a few times where I've shown up on the weekends and served donuts to customers! On my birthday, they made my friends and me dinner and took us to the beach the next day. I've also been invited to be a part of their son's wedding. My rice soup family is the best, and everything about their food and their attitude is full of openness and love. No wonder they're packed every morning - get there before 8 or they might be sold out!” – Brittany

“Kao tom”

Food in Surat Thani 5 Name:“Corner Guy” Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) You can’t miss it! It’s right next door to 7-11 on the corner of Chalokratt and Amphur (hence the name Corner Guy). Short review: Not only is Corner Guy close and convenient but it’s delicious. This is a cheap “hole-in-the-wall” type of place but has a wider selection than most others. It’s the best for late-night meals or snacking… He’s open ‘til 3am! Recommended dishes: “Pad pong garee” (crab curry); “Pad See Euw” (fried yellow noodles w/ brown sauce); “Yum yot maprow” (fried seafood dip) Approximate cost per dish: 35-45 baht ($1- 1.50 USD) Customer comments:"Corner Guy can cook up a mean dinner for cheap! And if you're looking for late night snacks, this man is usuallyopen into the wee hours of the morning. He also makes the best nam pla prik [fish sauce w/ chili] in town! Just remember he’s closed on Tuesdays!” -Ryan Day

“pad see euw”

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Name:“Chain-Fence Place” Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Go up Chalokratt toward the intersection with Amphur. Before you get to the 7-11 on your right, keep your eyes open for a small eatery that has a chain-link fence instead of a front wall (hence the nickname). It’s also painted a bright, lime green… you can’t miss it! Short review: Another hole-in-the-wall just up the straight from the Big House! This place just opened up in January of 2012 and has had booming business ever since. The owners and staff are all extremely nice. They don’t have a menu in English but know how to make just about anything you ask for. The best part is that most rice dishes come with a complimentary bowl of soup; a simple broth with herbs, but delicious! Recommended dishes: the “house” noodle soup; “Pad ka praew gai” (fried Thai basil with chicken on rice); “Kao pad gai sai kai dao” (fried rice w/ chicken and fried egg [over rice]). Approximate cost per dish: 30-45 baht Customer comments: “I’ve never had a bad meal here! The proximity to the [Big] house, price, friendly staff, and delicious food have won me over! It’s one of my favorite places to get a bite. The best part is that most rice dishes come with a complimentary bowl of soup; a simple broth with herbs, but delicious!” -Blake

“Pad ka praew gai”

Food in Surat Thani 7 Name:“Rice Lady” Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Coming from the Big House, go up Chalokratt and make a right on to Amphur rd. Go down the hill and rice lady is the third to last “shop” on your left before the traffic light (opposite 7-11). Short review: This place gets its name because of the cute little lady that cooks and serves the food, plus the fact that its mostly rice dishes (there are some noodle dishes though). Rice Lady has been a teacher favorite for years. Best pad ka praew in Surat! Recommended dishes: “Pad ka praew (gai/moo)” (fried Thai basil w/ chicken or pork over rice); “Pad see euw gai” (fried noodles with brown sauce, vegetables, and chicken); “Kao pad pak” (fried rice w/ vegetables). Approximate cost per dish: 30-35 baht (add fried egg for 10 baht) Customer comments: “Sooooo good, just be sure to know how to order in Thai. She’s a sweetheart but doesn’t speak a lick of English. If you’re feeling adventurous, this is one of the only places I know of that gives you the option of chicken, pork, or… frog!” -Blake

“Pad see euw w/ small

noodles” “Kao pad gai- sai kai dao”

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Name:“Yoke Dude” (breakfast) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) From Chalokratt make a right at the stoplight on to Amphur, go about 100 meters and you’ll see tables outside (just past the pharmacy, but before 7-11). Short review: Yoke is similar to “kao tom” (rice soup), but thicker like porridge. The jolly man that runs the place until around 11am everyday is always happy when farang teachers come to eat. The complimentary tea is a delicious way to wash down the heaping bowl of yoke you get for only 20 baht! Also, it’s a quick and easy place to grab breakfast on the way to school. Recommended dishes: “Yoke” of course! Approximate cost per dish: 20 baht Comments: The debate is still out amongst teachers, what is the better breakfast, rice soup or yoke?!

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“Restaurants in Surat”: Now, let’s show some of the teachers’ favorite restaurants in town. There’s plenty to choose from and we’ll show it all! Name:“Good Health” (Thai food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Head up Chalokratt and, at the intersection, make a left on to Amphur rd. It’s almost immediately on your right hand side next to a hair salon. Short review:Good Health has that name for a reason… they have a wide selection of healthy foods and vegetarian/ tofu options. They also have the best green curry in town! Recommended dishes: “Gheng keaw wan gai” (Green Curry); try the vegetarian or tofu dishes. Approximate cost per dish: 45-80 baht Comments: They also sell a wide array of all-natural health products/foods from shampoo to tea.

Green curry with

chicken fried tofu

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Name:“Kompon” (Thai food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Go up Chalokratt and make a left on to Amphur rd. at the stoplight. Drive down Amphur about ¼ mile and it will be on your right hand side, not far after Muang Suratthani School. Just keep your eyes open for the bright green Kompon sign. Short review:Kompon has it all… good ambience, great food, and reasonable prices. The large outdoor garden-seating area makes for a relaxing meal. The service may take a little longer than other places, but it’s worth it… Kompon has hands-down the best massaman in town. A nice place for a quite dinner or date and it’s in close proximity to Super teacher housing. Recommended dishes: “Massaman gai” (massaman curry with chicken and potatoes- order it with rice); “Nam pla guk fu” (spicy catfish salad) Approximate cost per dish: 60-80 baht + 15 baht for a side of rice Customer comments:“Kompon has a really nice courtyard seating area, a good setting for date night. It has a reputation for great seafood, though I usually can't get past Massaman Gai on the menu. Kompon has the best Massaman in town. I've enjoyed every dish I've ordered...except the Jungle Curry. If you value the health and preservation of your taste buds leave that menu landmine alone”. –Mike B.

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Name:“Lucky” (Thai food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike): Go all the way down Amphur rd. and turn left on to Talad Mai at the intersection. Drive about a mile (past the hospital) and on the corner (left-hand side), opposite the backpacker hotel; you’ll see Lucky Restaurant with big glass windows in the front. Short review:Lucky has been a popular restaurant in Surat for years. It’s a favorite of everyone, both Thai and farang. Their specialty is Thai food but the large menu offers some fusion dishes with Chinese and Western favorites. Tip: Get there early and beat the rush! Recommended dishes: Chicken wings in Thai red sauce; “Moo Klob sai grateeam” (Thai-style crispy pork with garlic- eat it over rice!). Approximate cost per dish: 60-100 (+) baht Comments: Some of the menu items can seem quite expensive at first. However, keep in mind that many of these items are to be served family-style so that it can be shared with a large group of people. Name:“The Rajutid Isaan Place” (Isan food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Go up Chalokratt, turn right on Amphur, then left on Karunrat, then right on

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Chongkasem, and a final left on Rajutid. It’ll be an open-air restaurant on your right just before the dead-end with Donnok rd. Short review: If you’re in the mood for Isaan food, but don’t feel like making the hike to the other Isaan place, this is perfect. It’s half the distance and portion of the cost. There is no English menu, but even if you can’t remember then name of your favorite dish, all you have to do is point. They make most everything at the front of the restaurant. Recommended dishes: “Som tam” (spicy papaya salad); “Gai deng” (grilled chicken w/ BBQ red sauce); “Kao neeaw” (sticky rice). Approximate cost per dish: 25-45 baht Comments: Great Isaan-style food. Compared to Under the Bridge, you don’t get the ambience of being on the river, but the food is just as good. Tip: use the sauces to dip everything from sticky rice to “moo tod” (fried pork)… sooo good! Name:“Under the Bridge” (Isan food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike)Just go down Donnok and it’s on the other side of the bridge on the right. Short review: This is the best Isan food in town! Located right on the river, it’s always a great place to go on a nice day. Recommended dishes: “Nam pla guk fu” (catfish salad); “Mu tod” (fried pork) Approximate cost per dish: 35-80 baht Customer comments: “Another worthwhile place to go for when wanting to celebrate, go on a date or just treat yourself. This is located on the other side of river right by the water’s edge. It is a beautiful location to watch the sun set and see the lights on the bridge. The fish there is great and the catfish salad is delicious.” -Leanne

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(clockwise: catfish salad; som tam; mu tod)

FEATURED RESTAURANT:Earth Zone(Thai food)

One restaurant that has to be featured in this article is Earth Zone. This is by

far one of the most popular eating spots for Super teachers. Not only is the food delicious, but the owner’s are ridiculously friendly, and it’s located on Chalokratt in walking distance of both of the current Super houses.

The music and décor of the restaurant offer a unique, hip Thai-style ambience that is comfortable and laid back. The sound of running water fountains accompanies relaxed jazz remixes. The lighting is soft, yet colorful. Indoor and outdoor seating is available and accommodating to parties both big and small. There’s also free wi-fi throughout making it a relaxing and convenient place to get some work done or just surf the net. It’s also a good place to Skype with friends or family back home because they’re open late; hours are 5pm to midnight.

While restaurant service in Thailand is not always up to par, the Earth Zone staff is always on point. There have been times when I’ve been in there eating alone

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and had three servers waiting on me at the same time. As soon as your glass is drained, it’s refilled with ice and topped off again. The waitresses speak at least enough English to understand whatever food or drink you order. Pui and Sak are the owners and both speak very good English. They’re incredibly friendly and are a pleasure to talk to. Their two children go to Thida and are taught by Super teachers. They remember everyone’s name and most of the time they’ll know what you want to order before you even pick up a menu.

Pui designed the menu and describes it as Thai fusion. Originally she was the entire kitchen staff all by herself, but now she prefers to be owner and manager. The menu has a few Western options like fish & chips that are delicious. However, most of the menu consists of traditional Thai food with a twist. I’ve never had a meal that I didn’t love there. There is also a large vegetarian section for all you herbivores out there. The best part is that you get all this for a very reasonable price. Meals start at around 60 baht ($2 USD) and go all the way up to 300+ baht, but on average expect to pay around 100 baht for a meal and a drink.

Earth Zone Meet Pui!

The last time I was at Earth Zone Pui sat down to chat with me and I asked her some questions about the restaurant….

(Sak & Pui) (pepper steak) Me: Pui, how many years have you been open? Pui: We’ve been in Surat Thani for 12 years with this restaurant open now for 7 year!

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Me: What is the most popular dish here? Pui: For Thai people, the fried pork with black pepper sauce and sweet onions. The salmon grilled with Chinese sauce is very popular too. For farang probably kao pad Earth Zone (Earth Zone’s signature fried rice dish). Me: Where did you learn to cook this great food? Pui: My mother ran an Isaan kitchen, but my husband is from Surat Thani so I know how to cook southern style too. I also get recipes from the internet.

In a nutshell…

Name: “Earth Zone” (Thai food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike): Coming from the Big House, head up Chalokratt towards the intersection with Amphur. It’s on your right hand side opposite Popeye, about 100 meters before the intersection. Recommended dishes:Kao Pad Earth Zone (fried rice Earth Zone style), Gai Sauce Cream Manao (a green salad with a spicy lemon sauce, topped with fired chicken pieces), Kaew Moo-Sub (great for an appetizer; Crispy fried dumplings filled with pork). Approximate cost per dish: 60-100 baht ($2-3 USD) Customer or owner comments: The owners are some of the nicest people I’ve met in Surat! Check out their facebook page for pictures and descriptions of the food (facebook: Earthzone Surattanee). ___________________________________________ Name:“Chai Houey Restaurant” (Chinese food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) From Chalokratt, make a right on Amphur to the end and then a left on Talad Mai. Follow Talad Mai just past Suratpittaya School and you’ll see the red and gold restaurant on your right side with Chinese lettering. Short review:I’ve only been here one time and it was good but not great. I do think that it’s the best Chinese food in Surat. Recommended dishes: the suckling pig, sweet and sour pork Approximate cost per dish: 80-100+ baht Comments: This place is expensive but most of the meals are very large and made to be shared between a whole table. So it’s best to go with a big group and order a few different things.

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Name:“Baan Pak” (Vietnamese food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) From Chalokratt, make a right on Amphur, go straight through the first traffic light and it’s on your right just past Amphur Coffee. Short review:This place is good and cheap. It’s a nice change of pace from the normal Thai cuisine we eat every day. Try the soup! Recommended dishes: “Bun bo” (Vietnamese soup) Approximate cost per dish: 35-65 baht Comments: This place is new and always packed so get there early if you want a seat! It’s really close to the two current Super houses.

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Name:“The Vietnamese Place on the River” (Vietnamesefood) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Go down to the pier drive on the ride that runs along the river, under the Donnok bridge, keep going and it’s on the right (near where the Sunday night market is). Short review: This has been a teacher favorite for a long time. Everything here is delicious and it’s cheap too! They have the traditional food, but also unique dishes I’ve only seen here. Recommended dishes: “half-moon”; “pork stick on sugar cane”; “make-your-own spring rolls” Approximate cost per dish: 40-80 baht

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Comments: This place is a little bit more expensive than the Baan Pak Vietnamese food, but its way better. “The Half moon is an original dish I highly recommend. It’s like a Vietnamese taco salad. Awesome.” –

Blake “Half

moon” “fried spring rolls” Name:“119 Baht” (Koreanfood) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) On Chalokratt, on the left-hand side if you’re going towards Amphur about ¼ mile before the light. Can’t miss it. Short review:There are a few different Korean-style BBQ places in Surat, but this one is by far the closest to Super housing. For only 119 baht you get to eat as much as you want of whatever you want! They have a wide selection of meats, seafood’s, veggies, and of course… rice to go with it. Recommended dishes: The meat and seafood are my favorites. The prawns they have there are the biggest I’ve ever seen. Approximate cost per dish: 119 baht, all you can eat.

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Comments: A Korean-style grill is in the middle of every table so that you can cook the food however you like it. If you can’t wait to cook your own food, there’s premade rice and noodle dishes too. If the grill isn’t your thing they have soup too- try it with the freshly grilled prawn!

“tom yum with freshly grilled prawns!” Name:“By Chef” (Western food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) From Chalokratt make a right on Amphur and then a left on Karunrat; follow Karunrat and at the second light make a right on Donnok; almost immediately, make a left on Ratbumrung rd; about ½ mile down on your right-hand side is By Chef. Short review: This place is a little bit further away but it has some of the best Western food in town! The burgers and ribs are good. The even have Aussie and Kobe beef! Recommended dishes: “BBQ ribs”; “Caesar salad”. Approximate cost per dish: 70-100 baht (more for beef/ steak)

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Comments: I’ve had the Thai food and the Western food here at By Chef and it’s all delicious. This is one of the only places in town that I know of that can make a real Caesar salad, the right way, with actual Caesar dressing and crispy bacon. I highly recommend it.

“BBQ ribs”

“Caesar salad” Name:“Milano’s” (Western food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) the pier Short review: Milano’s has good pizza and if you get there early, the American breakfast is a lot of food for a reasonable price. Recommended dishes: pizza Approximate cost per dish: 70-150 baht Comments: “Milano’s is a pizza place just by the pier. Often a group of us will get together and eat here. It is really nice for when you want a day off Thai food and want to just hang out. The Pizza’s are delicious and I especially like the ham and pineapple. There is a real fire cob pizza oven and you can really tell with the food. You may often get approached by lost travelers trying to find a place to stay or how to get

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the night boat because of its proximity to the pier.” -Leanne Name:“Crossroads” (Thaifood) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike)the pier Short review: Located right on the river Crossroads is always a great place to go to on a nice day or evening. The food is great and they have good live music there often. Recommended dishes: try the seafood and fruit shakes! Approximate cost per dish:50-100 baht Comments:“It’s located by the river not too far away from ‘Under the Bridge’. This is more up market than under the bridge but comes with a premium. They serve great cocktails and fruit shakes, perfect if you want a change from the beer that seems to be the only thing served in most places. It is known for its great tasting fish and seems to be a perfect place to spend a weekend sat by the river, soaking up the sun and watching the sunset. When I went I actually choose to eat frog. It did not taste much different than any other kind of meat – like the saying goes ‘it tastes just like chicken’.” -Leanne

BEST RESTAURANT:Ciao Italia(Western food) … And the winner is… Ciao Italia!

The decision is in and the Super English teachers’ favorite restaurant in Surat Thani is none other than Ciao Italia. Since its recent opening last year, Ciao (as we call it for short) has been a weekly dining place for most of us. There is all kind of Western food on the menu (burgers, sandwiches, salads) but the best is their specialty of Italian cuisine. The pizzas are better than any place in town and the lasagna is the best I

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have ever had. If the prices look a little bit steep, that’s because all of their ingredients like the meats and cheeses are special orders and kept fresh. The portion sizes are also quite large. A calzone, for example, will take most people two sittings to finish. It’s worth every satong! The owner Emeliano is from Milan, Italy. His wife is Thai and they were actually the original management of Milano’s before they opened their Italian restaurant in February of 2001 on Koh Tao. Both of them are also fluent in Italian, Thai, and English and are a pleasure to talk to. If they aren’t busy delivering pizzas or baking lasagna, they’ll always to take a minute for some friendly conversation. The Thai and Italian fusion is a delicious taste that set Ciao Italia apart.

Ciao is strategically located on Talad Kaset opposite the bus station in order to draw in traffic from all of the travelers that past by. In relation to Super housing, it is

a little further than some of the aforementioned restaurants but it’s worth it. When we had a Super English work party for New Year’s they prepared a special meal for us and I have to say it was probably the best I’ve head since moving to Surat!

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… At a glance… Name: “Ciao Italia” (Western food) Location: (in relation to teacher housing via motorbike) Coming from Chalokratt, make a right on to Amphur rd and follow it ‘til it ends and turn left on Talad Mai. Follow Talad Mai until you see the bus station on your right. Opposite the bus station, make a left on to Talad Kaset and

Ciao Italia is on you immediate right. Recommended dishes: Lasagna; Pizza Diovolo; Calzone; Spaghettis Carbonara Approximate cost per dish: 65-200 baht Comments: Super English Teachers’ number one pick, this restaurant is the best Western food that Surat has to offer. Don’t forget to add the signature chili infused olive oil to add some Thai spice to any dish. By far my favorite restaurant! Take advantage of the free home delivery too! “Western-styleFAST FOOD:”

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Surat being a pretty big city means that we have access to all kinds of food, even Western-style fast food. Whenever you’re feeling like you need a taste of home, a quick fix is KFC, located in both Big C and the Coliseum. There’s even a Dunkin Donuts and Auntie Anne’s inside the Tesco-Lotus on the second floor. Things seem to only be getting better. We also have a Pizza Hut in the Coliseum. There are supposedly plans for a McDonald’s to be put in the new Icon shopping center within a year!

“Snacks:”

One thing many people notice when they first come to Thailand is the

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smaller portion sizes. This is because of the frequency in which Thai people eat… alllll the time. Instead of having the typical Western idea of eating three big meals a day, Thai people generally eat several smaller meals with snacks in between. Surat Thani has plenty to offer when it comes time for snacking. There is anything from the traditional meat on a stick to bugs in a bag.

Leanne took on the task of finding the best snacks in town:

Evan and I went off on an adventure to eat bugs. These aren’t common where we live. They can be found on occasion at the night market. We found them on a market that was set up for the King’s Birthday. Every now and again a market will pop up for a few weeks and then disappear. They will serve food from other parts of Thailand and you will start to notice the difference between the different parts of Thailand and their variety of food.

Evan and I managed to digest grasshoppers, maggots, cockroaches and some other funny looking beetles. As well as having a good laugh they were actually quite nice to eat. They had a nice buttery coating and a good crunch!!

My advice would be to try everything once and you will never know what you may end up liking. Being open minded when comes to food in Surat will put you in a much better position. Often the vendors on the food stall will not be able to speak much English and therefore often you will never know what the food is unless you give it a go.

Meat sticks

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These seem to be served everywhere throughout the day. They will either be put on a made up BBQ or dipped in the deep fryer. You can get pretty much any type of meat on a stick, fish, squid, pork, and they strangely enough do not seem to taste like the actual meat they are meant to. These typically will cost around 20 baht and you will be given some chilly sauce to eat them with.

Sweet snacks

Thai people seem to like anything sweet. Sugar seems to be put in everything here in Surat. One of the most common snacks is sticky rice with a coconut flavor or some other sweet topping. These are wrapped in banana leaves and pinned together with toothpicks.

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One of the favorite desserts/snacks is fried banana. This is served with a topping. Great to have a few but any more than that it can be sickly sweet.

.

(fried banana deliciousness!)

Milk bar

Again, just at the end of our road there is another place to grab a snack. It serves sweet snacks and milk. Sounds strange but if you have a sweet

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tooth it is a great place to go and it also has free wifi. The milk will come with caramel, coco, butterscotch or some other sweet flavor that you choose. They also serve tea and coffee. There is a selection of sweet snacks that are cut into 8 square pieces and good to share, They are mostly bread based with chocolate, strawberry or icing coating. I have yet to try them all but there is a picture of each of the different snacks on the wall. Only one of the staff members speaks Thai so it helps when you can point to the wall of what you want. For 2 milks and a snack to share will cost you less than 100 baht.

Fruit:

Being surrounded by fried food and sweet snacks all day it is all too easy to forget the healthy delights that Surat has to offer. Fruit is plentiful and can be found at the end of our road on the same corner as ‘corner

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guy’ the milk place, noodle place and Sawandeng. Also there is a whole line of fruit stalls set up in the evening at the pier and at the night market.

Thai fruit is nothing like what you will find back home. They are extremely diverse, colorful and tropical. Some Thai fruits are incredibly sweet and juicy. While the taste of other may, at first, seem strange and exotic to visitors, they add a delightful extra dimension. Some fruits are seasonal in Thailand, but there is always a wide choice available. Here is a selection most commonly found in Surat.

Banana (Kluey)

As you can see these don’t look like the bananas you will find back home. They look smaller and like a giant’s fingers. They do taste exactly the same and even better fried.

Durian (Toorian)

This is known as the ‘King of Fruits’. It is yellow on the inside and has the consistency of custard. It is an acquired taste and has a pungent smell. It seems to be like marmite, you either love it or hate it.

Dragon fruit – tastes a bit like kiwi

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Mangosteen (Mangkut) The hard purple shell conceals a soft pulpy flesh surrounding large seeds. This is very sweet and juicy but not very filling and even though large inside once you have got through the outer shell and the large seeds there is little left to eat.

Jackfruit (ka-noon)

This is my favorite of all the fruits and probably one of my favorite snacks. It has a rubbery texture but very sweet to taste and not sour like most fruits. It apparently is good for digestion and helps keep you awake. Just don’t eat them before you go to bed!

Survival Guide:Ordering Thai Food Mansawirat- vegetarian Kai dao- fried egg Khao- rice Kai jeaw- omelet Gai- chicken

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Kai- egg Ron- hot Mu- pork Yen- cold Pla- fish Pet- spicy Kung- shrimp Ta ley- seafood Nam plao- drinking water Kab khao- any food provided to eat with rice Rad khao- served over rice Pad pak ruam mit- mixed veggies stirred (with or without meat) Woon sen phad kai- glass noodles stirred with egg Tom yam- spicy soup cooked with Thai herbs, chili paste, mushroom, and meat Kang jud- clear soup (not spicy) Kaeng keaw wan (gai)- green curry (with chicken) Khao tom- boiled rice soup Pad kra praew- spicy Thai basil (with chicken or pork) Khao pad- fried rice Pad see euw- fried yellow noodles with brown sauce Khao man gai- rice with boiled chicken Khao moo daeng- rice with red pork Som tam- papaya salad: spicy mix of papaya, tomato, peanuts, and long beans

Where to eat around Super English: Gin Khao Ru Yang?

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If you are like me, you finish up teaching at the Super English Language School around 6:30 and you are huemak! (that means really hungry in Thai). You don’t have time to dilly dally, go cruise around town, evaluate all possible options, reconsider and then consider again. You want food and you want it now. What are you going to do? I’ll tell you what you’re going to do – you’re going to dine at one of the fine establishments in the vicinity of your employ. Luckily for us incredibly awesome Super teachers, there are dozens, if not more, options available for your enjoyment.

Let’s just go ahead and start with the most visible, most obvious choice for food, San Jao! San Jao is THE night market in Surat Thani. In a nutshell, this place is so awesome. If it’s Thai food, and you want it – you might be able to find it here. San Jao has countless vendors selling mostly food, but also clothing, fashion accessories and all kinds of stuff that is appealing to tourists. For my first few months at Super, I was eating a second lunch here every day, until I realized that eating a light snack of deep fried dough balls and deep fried chicken in between lunch and my first dinner isn’t exactly what dieticians label ‘healthy eating.’ At San Jao you can find most all the typical Thai food fare. Khao man gai, Khao mok gai, all types of curry, salt cured sundried fish, barbequed fish, meat sticks galore, fresh fruit shakes, strange tasting candy, bread of some sort, dried and grilled squid, meat sticks galore, people packed shoulder to shoulder. Any did I mention more meat sticks?

You’ll go nuts for these donuts!

I’m going to go ahead and start by telling you about meat sticks. They are amazing. If you enter San Jao from the entrance closest to Super, immediately to your right is the meat stick guy. This guy has all kinds of meat sticks. I’m going to save you the trouble in experimenting

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with them. Just get the red chicken. It’s maybe the best tasting chicken I’ve ever had. It’s not the best deal in the world at 10 baht apiece, but if you are hungry and want something immediately while perusing the other wares of the market, this is unbeatable. Then there is the fermented meat stick guy about half way down. He’s usually done by the time that Super is over, but if fermented meat is your thing, this guy has a lot of it. But the ultimate in meat sticks is definitely “the sexy meat stick lady”.

The Authority on meat sticks in Surat!

Now many people question why I think she is so attractive, and

once you see her, you will understand why. But you know what they say, the quickest way to a man’s is through his stomach. While anatomically this does not make much sense, I’ve experienced this to be a true statement thanks to the sexy meat stick lady. I don’t care if her husband cooks everything right in front of you, and maybe she is the one who simply performs the sales transaction. I don’t. Her pork skewers are so

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delicious. They’re not just arroy, they are arroyMAK! And let’s not forget the fried pork bits she has. Seriously, if you’re a fan of meat – you’ll be a fan of this meat. But what sexy meat stick lady does best is her ‘spicy sauce’. Fitting in with her fiery attitude, she makes the best sauce I’ve had in Thailand. Not to mention, her kids go to old Thida, so if you mention that you work there, you’ll earn some brownie points (what I now call meat points) with her. Best meat sticks in Surat Thani, period.

Then there is what I like to classify as the metal pan vendors. I don’t know what they are actually called, but as you’ll soon learn if you are coming to Surat, you’re going to start making up names for nearly everything. From the metal pan people, you can get all kinds of Thai goodies. These vendors are awesome for the new arrival because you can just look at everything, and point at whatever you think is going to be dinner for the night and just say ‘ao’. This is a bit of a double-edged sword because while ordering from them is extremely easy, you don’t really learn the names of the food. A quick Thai lesson – if you want to know the name of something, just say A niiriakwaaarai. If they understand you, they will tell you what it’s called. You can find all kinds of curried stuff and other things I don’t know what they are called. But that’s the beauty of it. Just point. And I’m going to use this moment to give a shout out to the Broccoli Lady. Sometimes it can be hard to get your fill of vegetation here, but there is a metal pan vendor that has watercress, broccoli and sometimes even cauliflower prepared. And the pan is always full and she seems more than happy to be rid of the stuff. 30 baht will get you a large satchel of either or. She also has this super salty dried garlic chicken that rivals the food of sexy meat stick lady. It’s a bit on the pricier end of cheap dining options, at 60 baht for a big bag of it. But it’s so arroy.

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Pan upon pan (sounds Thai!)

Then there are the restaurants at San Jao. The best place to get

Khao Mok Gai at the night market (which is yellow rice and chicken) is at a metal pan vendor near the Super-side entrance. You can order and go sit down in something that looks like a cleared out garage with some tables. There a few of these places, usually the metal pan vendors will have a seating area behind their half-scooter/half kitchen-mobile. But the ultimate San Jao dine-in experience has to be “Khao Man Gai Guy”. Khao Man Gai is simply white rice with chicken, but he serves it with pickled greens, this delicious hellfire sauce that will titillate your gastrointestinal tract, a sweet savory pork broth, and some chicken stock to wash it all down with. It’s 41 baht (one baht for a cup of ice, which you will need if you go full hellfire sauce) and it’s ArroyMak!

Anyhow, enough about the night market – it’s time to branch out a bit and check out some restaurants.There are plenty of actual restaurants around Super and I am just going to start off by telling you

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about my favorite one. It’s called “Angry Noodles” or “Glamour Noodles” depending on whom you ask. Why Angry Noodles? I am not exactly sure - they are friendly enough. Why Glamour Noodles? Well, because the younger guy who cooks at night has a haircut like Steve Perry from Journey. Anyhow, as glamorous or as angry as they may or may not be, they make seriously awesome food and its right by Super. You can get the typical Thai fare here, anything probably, from rice dishes to noodle dishes. Dishes are standard Thai price ranging from 30 to 60 baht depending on how much meat and how many eggs you add in. I would recommend adding zero eggs FYI, but I’ll let you figure out why on your own, I’m trying to keep this article rated PG. I like to place an order with them (sometimes it takes one minute and sometimes it takes 25) then go to San Jao and hit my spots, then grab my food and leave. This really saves on the whole waiting forever thing.

The Glamour Family in action!

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In the mood for something else? Well,right next to Angry Noodles

is “The Roti Place”! This place let me tell you, is the new hot spot for eating after Super. In addition to their amazing Roti’s (which is this type of bread-like food substance that kind of tastes like pasta in my opinion) they have Masaman and something called Mataban. Sounds a lot like Matza balls. Masaman is a Muslim curry that is sweet, savory and mildly spicy. You’re going to get to know this food well. It’s arroy mak mak. Theirs is not very spicy and pretty sweet with some chunky chicken and veggies. With the Roti’s (I usually get two or three) you’re never paying over 30 baht. Mataban is a mix of carrots and some stuff and is shallow fried with an egg and the Mataban mix inside of a roti, it’s much more filling than the Masaman and Roti combo and similarly priced. Recently this place has been expanding, they are now selling meat sticks, Khao Mok Gai, and some sweet stuff that I try to avoid at 7pm. Best part about it is the Roti lady always has a smile and is incredibly nice – a good alternative if you’re not feeling like dealing with a heaping pile of Angry Noodles.

Super is also quite proximal to the night boat pier, which has all kinds of dining options. There are two or three interconnected restaurants that make up the waiting area for the night boats that all serve standard Thai specialties right on the river. It’s cool to go here and act all local in front of all of the tourists. Other than that, it is nothing special – and beers are more expensive here than in most bars. But really, it’s pretty awesome to stroll up like you own the place with the other teachers. The tourists probably think we are just more tourists, but, we’re not. It gives me that satisfying feeling of smugness when I feel like being smug.

Also near the pier is Milano’s. Milano’s really doesn’t have much on Ciao Italia except location. Their pizzas and sandwiches are pretty delicious, maybe a bit pricey, but a nice little taste of those things we left behind when we came to Thailand. On this same street you can also find a variety of fresh fruit vendors with pretty good prices – but there are a few other places that are similar in price but are totally way cooler to buy produce at.

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That’s-a Spicy Meata-Balla!

For my last bit in this article I will blurb about the fresh markets,

two in particular that I am familiar with. I know that there are others around town, but these two stick out a lot and have a very cool, very Thai vibe to them.

The first is pretty close to Super, on Na Muang, one of the main streets here in town. It’s called the Pacific Plaza market place. If you like to cook regularly, this is a great place to buy not only vegetables but freshly butchered meats as well. You can find it all here – cabbage, carrots, all kinds of fresh fish, pork, chicken, frog, squid, shrimp – this list goes on and on. If you want to eat it, they have it. Nothing is prepared here and cooking meals yourself will likely cost more than eating at a restaurant. But cooking is fun, so keep this place in mind if that is your thing. Pacific Plaza is also a great place to buy clothes, on top of the fresh market at the bottom are 3 stories of random clothes and fashion accessories at prices way better than places like Coliseum, Saha Tai or Lotus.

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THE place to buy fruit! (at night, by the boats)

The other fresh market I would like to mention is the expansive

produce market very close to old Thida. It’s just north of the school close to where Na Muang runs into Talad Mai. If I had to guess judging from the number of farms I see around Surat province, this stuff is all grown locally. Eat your heart out localvores. You buy produce by the kilo here and its super cheap no matter what your thing is – rose apples, farangs, ugly pumpkins, rambutans, longans… it’s all here right next to Thida. My favorite thing about this place is that it is pretty close to a bus station for tourists. They are always just sitting there looking very amazed at the car wash right across the street. If they just ventured half a block down they would see this really expansive market with all kinds of goodies. So luckily we teachers may be some of the very lucky few westerners who get to explore this rustic farmer’s market.