first quarter 2015 the cosmetic summit9. virtual reality – this is going to grow in 2015. perhaps...

IMWSCC BoardChairEric [email protected]

Chair ElectRick [email protected]

SecretaryRachel [email protected]

TreasurerKelsey [email protected]

Newsletter EditorRachel [email protected]

Assistant EditorAaron [email protected]

Newsletter PublisherBrianna [email protected]

The Cosmetic SummitIntermountain West Society of Cosmetic Chemists

First Quarter 2015

First Quarter Sponsors:

Glenn Corp

Nexeo

President’s Report for 2014

As I write this report, I find it hard to believe that another year has passed, once again far too quickly. It has been another busy year for the Society, with much of the work taking place behind the scenes.

We have continued the work we started in 2013 to strengthen the governance of the organization, both at the National and Chapter levels, and to provide financial transparency to our members as is required by a non-profit organization. Most of our U.S. chapters are now individually incorporated and have the appropriate level of liability insurance to protect the assets of the members of those chapters-your assets.

Our website redesign is complete; if you have not yet looked at it, please go online to:

www.scconline.org . It looks fabulous! A special thank you to Perry Romanowski for his help in putting this together for the Society.

which is a significant accomplishment. Kudos to the entire National Office staff for their role in making this happen.

The objective of the Society is to provide education, and we continued to deliver on this objective in 2014, both at the National and the Chapter level. Although this year was the first in a long time with no mid-year meeting, 28 CEP courses were held: 5 free chapter events, 4 in-house courses and 17 courses at the National Office. In addition to this, the SCC sponsored the keynote speaker at this year’s inaugural C&T Cosmetics Summit held in Philadelphia on June 26-27. Two additional CEP courses were offered in conjunction with this event, and the Society made a net profit. Our Chapters have also had great success with their educational programs this year; many of them holding their own Educational Seminars, and drawing attendees from Chapters outside of their area. Look for more exciting news about SCC collaborations with other allied industry educational organizations to bring information and technology to our members in 2015.

Our membership continues to grow; the latest figures from National are 4591 members, with the expectation that we will exceed 4600 before this goes to print.

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank the 2014 Executive Committee: Tony O’Lenick, Debbie Pierce, Peter Tsolis and Amy Marshall; the 2014 Area Directors: Joy Welsh, Joe Albanese, Bart Maxon, Perry Romanowski,

By: Dawn Burke-Colvin

2014 is also the year that the National Society adopted electronic voting. Although the voting period was still open as I wrote this report, the number of members who cast ballots so far this year has already surpassed last year’s total,

2 IMWSCC 1st Quarter 2015

Table of ContentsPresident’s Message p.1-3

Industry Insider p. 4

Chemists Corner p. 6

Patent Law 116 p. 7

IMWSCC Spotlight p. 9

Regulatory Department p. 10-11

Advantages of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in Face Masks p. 12-15

Company Spotlight p. 16

SnL Meeting Agenda p. 17-18

Grand Seminar Meeting Synopsis p. 19

Read to Win!Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this - . Spot it and email Eric ([email protected]) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a gift card at the next meeting.

The Soul & Science of Beauty.

Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany PHONE +49 201 173-2854

Evonik Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA PHONE +1 804 541-8658

[email protected] [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

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1st Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 3

Lisa Jones, Liz Streland, Michelle Linscott and Danielle Wheeler for their service to the Society. Thanks also to Akshay Talati, COSA chair, and the entire committee for their work in assembling this year’s December program, and to Mark Chandler and the Continuing Education committee for their efforts to ensure that our CEP courses are relevant to today’s changing industry. All of the Chapter Chairs and their Boards deserve our gratitude for continuing to deliver education to our membership across the U.S. and Canada.

Last, but certainly not least, the Society could not function without the outstanding efforts of our National Office staff: David Smith, Doreen Scelso, Annmarie Lynch and Colleen Daddino.

It has been my pleasure to serve as President of the Society. I wish everyone a safe and Happy Holiday Season, and, finally, would like to remind everyone that the U.S. Society will be the host for the 29th IFSCC Congress in 2016, to be held at the Dolphin Hotel in Orlando, Florida.

President’s Message Continued:

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Industry Insider: IMWSCC TOP 10 Favorite Cosmetic Products

Aaron Petersen: [email protected]

By: Aaron PetersenFor 2015 we are mixing it up and doing some new featured articles, including a TOP 10 list on some fun topics. For our Q1 newsletter we are highlighting 10 people’s favorite cosmetic/personal care products.

Aaron Peterson-Technical Sales Rep

Old Spice Fresh scent Deodorant. It is the only thing I haven’t changed about my personal care routine since I started in the industry. Everything else is subject to change!

Rachel Robertson-Cosmetic Chemist

PCA Skin Facial Wash for Oily or Problem Skin. This facial wash is the only consistent product in my skin regimen, it’s very efficacious and gentle. After every use my face feels hydrated, fresh, and energized. I LOVE this product.

Jennifer Markoff-Cosmetic Chemist

Neutrogena Skin Clearing Mineral Powder, because it lays down the perfect amount of color, mattifies the shine on my face, and doesn’t cause breakouts.

Josh Benson-Director of Technical Sales

PCA Hydrating Serum. I don’t like putting oil on my skin and it keeps my skin moisturized all day. Love it.

Stephanie Neilson-Cosmetic Chemist

St. Ives Apricot Scrub. I have used it for years. I love the way my face feels afterwards.

Alexandria Byrne-Color Specialist

Cetaphil Face Wash, because it’s the only product that takes away my acne AND does not over-dry my skin. It’s a very gentle face wash.

Lauren Armstrong-Sr. Cosmetic Chemist

Suave Professionals Keratin Infusion Dry Shampoo, because it adds a lot of texture and body to hair, keeps hair looking fresh and clean between washes, and is a great price!

Kelsey Larsen-Cosmetic Chemist

City Block 25 SPF from Clinique is my favorite non-Nu Skin product. It’s a mineral sunscreen that provides light coverage and evenness to my skin

without going into my wrinkles and accentuating them.

Rachel Sabin-Product Development Scientist

Round Trip from Paul Mitchell. My hair has a lot of wave to it and this stuff saves me from looking like I just stuck my finger in an electric socket. It makes doing my hair after a shower a 1-minute operation. Lazy c u r l y - h a i r e d people of the world unite!


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Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com

Hot Trends to Look for in 2015Euromonitor is a market research company who covers the beauty market. They put together a white paper suggesting some trends that will be popular in 2015.

1. Buying convenience – Consumers are finding it easier to buy products online or through their phones. Beauty brands need to have online distribution to be successful.

2. Brand activism – More brands are tying in some social good with purchases of their products. This might be a good way to grow a new beauty brand. Find a cause that people will care about.

3. Vloggers and Bloggers – They are going to have an even bigger impact on what people buy in the coming year.

4. Sharing consumers – I’m not sure how this will play out with cosmetics but perhaps a company can buy in bulk and sell to groups.

5. Malls build communities – While online purchasing is going to increase, shopping centers and malls are gearing

By: Perry Romanowski

more towards being a place for people to gather. Big brands can’t ignore retail opportunities.

6. Millennial purchasers – There are 2.6 billion of them and they’re going to start buying. Better have some cosmetics for them to purchase.

7. Consumers demand privacy – Not sure how this will affect cosmetics.

8. World shopping – With online purchases people can buy cosmetics from around the world. All brands will be global and might have to adapt to local regulations.

9. Virtual reality – This is going to grow in 2015. Perhaps people will be able to virtually design their own cosmetics and have finished product sent to them.

10. Focus on well-being – Consumers will be more focused on their health and monitoring it, especially using mobile apps. This should be good news for brands positioned as healthy.

www.floratech.com

®


Ryan Marshall: [email protected]

Patent Law 116: Tired of Patents? Consider Patent ExhaustionMany readers of this column may find intellectual property topics tiring, and they would not be alone! Judges hearing patent cases fashioned an equitable rule of law to limit the scope of patent recoveries; it’s called patent exhaustion. For more than 150 years, courts have used the doctrine of patent exhaustion to limit the recovery a patentee might improperly obtain from an accused infringer.

The patent exhaustion doctrine actually relates to the patent statute’s definition of infringing activities. The statute lets a patentee exclude others from making or using or selling a patented invention, and the statute also defines what constitutes an infringing activity violating a patentee’s rights. Infringement may be either direct or indirect. Direct infringement occurs when all activities necessary to result in an infringement are performed by a single person or entity. Indirect infringement occurs when more than one person or entity is involved in an infringing activity. There are two types of indirect infringement: contributory and induced.

The exhaustion doctrine removes the limitations on infringing activities for certain persons in specific circumstances. More specifically, the doctrine removes the restrictions on authorized acquirers when they obtain an article “embodying or containing” an invention whose initial sale was authorized by the patentee. Put another way, once there has been an authorized sale of a patented article by the patentee, that sale confers on the purchaser or any subsequent owner a right to use or sell to another the same article.

The exhaustion doctrine is based on the idea that a patentee has obtained all that it is entitled to by the original sale of the patented article and that it would be inappropriate to allow the patent holder to further control the article after it is purchased. Similar doctrines are also applied in trademark and copyright law and referred to as the “first sale doctrine.”

By: Ryan MarshallBecause the defense of patent exhaustion only applies when there has been an authorized sale of an article, there are a number of factual issues that have to be reviewed to determine whether the defense is appropriate in a particular circumstance.

In a recent case reviewed by the appellate court responsible for hearing patent appeals, the court clarified another facet

of this defense. The reviewing court held that patent exhaustion can only apply when the patentee’s assertion of infringement depends on an authorized acquirer using the same invention that another is accused of indirectly infringing. Thus, when a patentee has patent claims covering an article and related method of use claims for the article’s use, a third party cannot rely on the exhaustion doctrine to absolve it of indirectly infringing the process claims even though the article was lawfully

purchased by an authorized acquirer.

This recent ruling limits the defense of patent exhaustion for parties accused of indirect infringement. It may pave

the way for patent owners to “carve out” specific activities from licenses in order to create

opportunities for asserting infringement claims against third parties in the future. Downstream producers of complementary products or technology should be aware that such activities may be related to indirect patent infringement even though there has been a prior purchase of a patented article.

This article is intended to provide information of general interest to the public and is not intended to offer legal advice about specific situations or problems. Brinks Gilson & Lione does not intend to create an attorney-client relationship by offering this information, and review of the information shall not be deemed to create such a relationship. You should consult a lawyer if you have a legal matter requiring attention. For further information, please contact a Brinks Gilson & Lione lawyer.


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Where were you born? Los Angeles, CA.

What was your favorite subject in grade school?Math and all sciences.

As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up? A Rocket Scientist.

Favorite Hobbies? Chemistry. I had a complete lab at the age of 12. In my 50s, skiing is a close second.

Favorite TV Show? Many: Sherlock Holmes, NOVA, and Doctor Who

Favorite Movie? Somewhere in Time and Sliding Doors

On the weekend, you will most likely be found… at the shooting range and church.

Any nicknames we should know about? None that I can share!

What is the most adventurous thing you’ve ever done? Seven years ago, I quit my job and moved to Utah and became an Independent Formulation Consultant. Also, I took up skiing in my 50s for the first time.

What was your last vacation? A one-month cruise to French Polynesia.

Spotlight on Rich Brown: In Memoriam

We lost a valued chapter member and friend with the passing of Rich Brown. He will be missed at our meetings and events, as well as our lives.With 45 years of experience, Rich knew our industry inside out. He was the guy that asked our presenters the hard questions, threw fun jabs at the Board, and always had a smile on his face.Rich’s accomplishments:1970-1978 Max Factor Hollywood Cosmetic Chemist1978- 1982 Max Factor Hollywood Packaging Design and Marketing1982-1984 Max Factor Hollywood Manager of Analytical Research1984-2008 Cosmetic Labs of America Chatsworth CA Mgr. and Dir of Cosmetic Development2008-2015 President of Apotheosis Beauty LabsRich has been awarded the status of Emeritus Member posthumously.The IMWSCC Board has voted to rename the Merit Award the “Rich Brown Merit Award.”Our thoughts and prayers go out to Rich’s wife Suzi, as well as their family and friends. Rich will be dearly missed.

If you could have a super-power what wouldit be? To always know the right thing to say to help people.

What is your favorite quote? John 3:16

What are you most proud of? A happy relationship with my God, wife and children.


2 companies, 2 different problems, both big issues, neither were aware….sounds like an ominous intro to some new fix it TV show. Nope, just regular findings in regulatory audits of cosmetic formulas and company chemical mission statements.

Here are 2 recent cases:

Company 1 – wanted to introduce “organic” cosmetics into a foreign country. The foreign country officials requested samples to test for safety. Products were sent over, tested and flagged for ingredients that were not listed in the ingredient profile and products were denied entry into the country. You can imagine the looks on faces when their “organic” products tested positive for ingredients that the organic community might go to war over. The company tasked me with finding out why they had tested positive for banned ingredients since they were now unable to introduce their products into this country.

Company 2 – wanted to introduce self-affirmed “safe and natural” products into a foreign country. The product labels had a claim “Free from……” with a list of self-determined naughty ingredients, including heavy metals that this particular company was claiming were absolutely not in the product. The labels were then subsequently checked for compliance to labeling standards and the ingredient list was audited to confirm the absence of these chemicals. After our analysis, we told the company that they could not make the “free from” claim because their products had some of the ingredients that were supposed to not be in the product – they were just hidden through alternate nomenclature, manifested later in the products lifecycle through decomposition or weren’t required to be listed in the ingredient panel but were in the formula.

How does this happen? Assuming the manufacturers are honest and forthright with the information, there are a couple ways that these “naughty” ingredients (parabens, PEGs, synthetic preservatives, banned preservatives, etc.) can make it into the product and legally do not have to be disclosed on the ingredient panel. Firstly, some of the manufacturers may be unaware that alternate nomenclature exists for the same ingredients. Secondly, many companies do not realize that the packaging they are using for their products might leach small amounts of the ingredients (such as phthalates).

What’s Hiding in Your ProductsProbably Formaldehyde, Parabens and Allergens - Claiming Your Product is Free From Certain Chemicals Might be More Difficult Than You ThinkBy: David Petrucci & D. Scott Taylor

D. Scott Taylor: [email protected]

In the US, ingredients that are used in preserving/stabilizing the raw materials but have no technical purpose in the end product do not have to be disclosed in the ingredient declaration for the cosmetic, i.e. carry-over additives (see 21 CFR 701.2(1)). A common preservative for botanical raw ingredients is formaldehyde, which is banned in many markets. If the ingredient doesn’t have a technical function in the end product, it doesn’t have to be declared. If you don’t have a detailed flowchart of the raw material, you wouldn’t know all the additives in that material. Other common additives that preserve organoleptics of raws or fragrance the end product are allergens in Europe. If you haven’t seen test results for the raws and final product, you wouldn’t know that allergens are in the product and your ingredient declaration would be in violation of consumer protection regulations.

Here are some examples of what checking the MSDS and CofA on raw materials can yield:

Whey protein extract – MSDS reveals that the ingredient is actually whey protein, water and a mixture of parabens.

Soybean extract – 20% soybean extract, 80% cyclodextrin

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate – 80% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and no indication of additional 20% - my guess is chicken beak extract.


2. If it sounds quite similar to what the label claims to be free of, but the core portion is different (e.g.: Sodium something Sulfate) take 5 minutes to google the ingredient and search what that particular ingredient really contains.

3. If you are trying to avoid phthalates choose glass bottles over plastic ones, when possible, as many plastics contain phthalates.

The 2 companies took slightly different approaches to solving their problems but with the same end result. Company 1 built into their next purchase order, and subsequent purchase orders, provisions requiring raws and final product to test negative for formaldehyde by all market standards. They eventually went away from the problematic supplier. Company 2 pulled out of the market to reassess their strategy and, last I heard, went away from that supplier that was producing products contrary to Company 2’s chemical mission standard. Both companies are still doing well and now have the additional knowledge required to confidently introduce their products into the marketplace with claims that accurately describe the products’ composition.

Contributing Authors:

Regulatory Department Continued:CofA of final product reveals that heavy metal amounts are all within the regulatory guidelines, but the product still has heavy metals, just in very small amounts.

Look for the root of words. Sometimes, a label states that a product is free from Phthalate but then the product contains Polybutylene Terephthalate. Although the polybutylene terephthalate isn’t on the Prop 65 California list, claiming that the product is phthalate free would be incorrect.

Another example is a product claiming to be free from SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) that contains Sodium Coco Sulfate, which is a mix of sulfonated fatty acids that includes, among others, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

In the case of packaging, supposedly phthalate-free hand sanitizer, lotion, or sunscreen sold in plastic bottles may have small amounts leach out of the container. This is especially true when exposed to higher temperatures like a sunscreen left in the sun or a moisturizing hand sanitizer left in a purse in the car during the summer.

If you are responsible for making or marketing the product:

1. Get all the documentation you can on the individual ingredients – this includes manufacturing flow charts, certificates of analysis, prop 65 affidavits, testing results, spec sheets, MSDSs, etc.

2. Get all the documentation you can on the end products – same as #1

3. If testing is available, test for the ingredients you don’t want to have present in your final formula.

4. Have a regulatory or formulation expert audit your products for the ingredients in question.

5. Write audit steps for common ingredients into quality control SOP supervised by a qualified representative.

6. Have contractual obligations from suppliers to provide test results specific to your mission statements

If you are a consumer and are worried about specific chemicals, here are our suggestions:

1. When you find an ingredient in the list that has the same central name as the one claimed to be free of (e.g.: phthalate, glycol, etc.) simply avoid it.

David Petrucci PhD Scott TaylorAdjunct Professor (Chemistry) Partner – Regulatory ConsultantUtah Valley University The Regulatory Department

BIOTECHNOLOGY VEGETALEXTRACTION

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Between Nature & TechnologyBetween Nature & Technology

Michael ContiGeneral Manager28 West 44th Street - Suite 910 - New York, NY10036Tel: 212-847-2386E-mail: [email protected]

Pub-RevendeurUS-4x4-5-HD.pdf 1 20.10.14 17:50:14


AbstractIn a series of double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomized clinical studies, Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba [INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (aqua)] was shown to increase skin elasticity, firmness, and hydration; decrease the number of enlarged pores and fine lines; and increase consumer preference when incorporated into a nonwoven facemask solution. These data support previous findings, demonstrating the effectiveness of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba in nonwoven wipe applications for skin hydration, redness reduction, and enhanced consumer preference.1

IntroductionHydrolyzed jojoba esters are derived from Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, and impart many of the benefits of jojoba oil, while also providing a unique array of additional benefits. Jojoba oil has been used in folk

remedy for sunburn treatment, chaffed skin, dry scalp, and wounds,2 and has been further explored more recently for its anti-inflammatory nature.3 Hydrolyzed jojoba esters have been used in various cosmetic and personal care products from lotions and creams, to nonwoven wipes and face masks. These multifunctional hydrolyzed jojoba esters have been shown to hydrate the skin when used in combination with glycerin, improve barrier function in damaged skin, and provide product aesthetics that are pleasing to many consumers.4

Advantages of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in Face MasksBy: Robert A Harper, PhD and Michelle Rencenberger, BS

Robert A Harper PhD, Michelle Rencenberger BS – Floratech, US

Face Mask Market

The face mask market is a constantly growing market. In 2013, in China alone, the face mask market totaled $1.8 billion (US dollars), up 13% from 2012.5 Similar trends are starting to be seen in the US and European markets, with 2013 markets totaling $65 million and $442 million (US dollars), respectively.5 The nonwoven wipe industry has numerous players like Unilever, Proctor & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson; however, now major players are also entering the face mask market, such as L’Oreal purchasing Magic Holdings International of Guangzhou, China for almost $900 million (US dollars).6 Floraesters K-20W Jojoba can provide additional functionality to products in this emerging market.

Study DesignOne percent (1%) Floraesters K-20W Jojoba was incorporated into a standard nonwoven face mask solution and compared to the vehicle solution without Floraesters K-20W Jojoba (see Table 1). The study involved sixteen female subjects using the face mask once a day for two weeks. The following measurements were taken before and after two weeks of face mask use: skin hydration using the Corneometer CM 825 (Courage + Khazaka, Köln, Germany), skin elasticity and firmness were taken with the MPA Cutometer (Courage + Khazaka, Köln, Germany), and enlarged pores (defined as an enlarged pore that meets the detectable size threshold of >0.5mm) and fine line counts (defined as thin lines produced by skin crepiness/thinning) using the BTBP Clarity Pro Advanced and Facial Stage DM-3 (BrighTex Bio-Photonics, LLC, San Jose, CA, USA). A consumer perception survey was also completed after three days of once-daily face mask use on non-face mask users in Arizona, USA (n=26 females) and current face mask users in Taiwain (n=26 females). All

2 PERSONAL CARE Reprinted from July 2014

Robert A Harper PhD, Michelle Rencenberger BS – Floratech, USNATURALS

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are derived fromSimmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,and impart many of the benefits of jojobaoil, while also providing a unique array ofadditional benefits. Jojoba oil has beenused in folk remedy for sunburn treatment,chaffed skin, dry scalp, and wounds,2

and has been further explored morerecently for its anti-inflammatory nature.3

Hydrolysed jojoba esters have been usedin various cosmetic and personal careproducts from lotions and creams, to non-woven wipes and face masks. Thesemultifunctional hydrolysed jojoba estershave been shown to hydrate the skin whenused in combination with glycerin, improvebarrier function in damaged skin, andprovide product aesthetics that arepleasing to many consumers.4

Face mask marketThe face mask market is a constantlygrowing market. In 2013, in China alone,the face mask market totalled $1.8 billion(US dollars), up 13% from 2012.5 Similartrends are starting to be seen in the USand European markets, with 2013 marketstotalling $65 million and $442 million (US dollars), respectively.5 The non-wovenwipe industry has numerous players likeUnilever, Procter & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson; however, now major playersare also entering the face mask market,such as L’Oréal purchasing Magic HoldingsInternational of Guangzhou, China foralmost $900 million (US dollars).6

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba can provideadditional functionality to products in this emerging market.

Study designOne per cent (1%) Floraesters K-20WJojoba (now referred to as ‘hydrolysedjojoba esters’) was incorporated into a standard non-woven face mask solutionand compared to the vehicle solutionwithout hydrolysed jojoba esters (seeTable 1). The study involved sixteenfemale subjects using the face mask once a day for two weeks. The followingmeasurements were taken before andafter two weeks of face mask use: skinhydration using the Corneometer CM 825

(Courage+Khazaka, Köln, Germany), skinelasticity and firmness were taken with theMPA Cutometer (Courage+Khazaka, Köln,Germany), and enlarged pores (defined asan enlarged pore that meets the detectablesize threshold of >0.5 mm) and fine linecounts (defined as thin lines produced byskin crepiness/thinning) using the BTBPClarity Pro Advanced and Facial Stage DM-3(BrighTex Bio-Photonics, LLC, San Jose, CA, USA). A consumer perception surveywas also completed after three days ofonce-daily face mask use on non-facemask users in Arizona, US (n=26 females)and current face mask users in Taiwan(n=26 females). All studies were double-blind, randomised, and vehicle controlled,

Benefits of hydrolysedjojoba esters in face masks

Table 1: Vehicle Face Mask.

Ingredient %w/w

Water 94.320

Butylene Glycol 4.000

Glycerin 1.500

Xanthan Gum 0.120

Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.060

Chlorphenesin 0.050

PEG-4 Laurate (and) Iodopropynyl 0.037Butylcarbamate

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.016

Methylisothiazolinone 0.005

ABSTRACT

In a series of double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomised clinical studies,Floraesters K-20W Jojoba [INCI:Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water(aqua)] was shown to increase skinelasticity, firmness, and hydration;decrease the number of enlarged poresand fine lines; and increase consumerpreference when incorporated into anonwoven facemask solution. These datasupport previous findings, demonstratingthe effectiveness of Floraesters K-20WJojoba in non-woven wipe applicationsfor skin hydration, redness reduction,and enhanced consumer preference.1

Figure 1: Increased skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity.

2 weeks

Hydration Firmness Elasticity

Cha

nge

from

bas

elin

e (%

)

25

20

15

10

5

0

–5

Vehicle +1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba Vehicle

Floratech 4pp REPRINT PCjul14 mk2 21/11/14 08:38 Page 2


Robert A Harper PhD, Michelle Rencenberger BS – Floratech, USNATURALS

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are derived fromSimmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,and impart many of the benefits of jojobaoil, while also providing a unique array ofadditional benefits. Jojoba oil has beenused in folk remedy for sunburn treatment,chaffed skin, dry scalp, and wounds,2

and has been further explored morerecently for its anti-inflammatory nature.3

Hydrolysed jojoba esters have been usedin various cosmetic and personal careproducts from lotions and creams, to non-woven wipes and face masks. Thesemultifunctional hydrolysed jojoba estershave been shown to hydrate the skin whenused in combination with glycerin, improvebarrier function in damaged skin, andprovide product aesthetics that arepleasing to many consumers.4

Face mask marketThe face mask market is a constantlygrowing market. In 2013, in China alone,the face mask market totalled $1.8 billion(US dollars), up 13% from 2012.5 Similartrends are starting to be seen in the USand European markets, with 2013 marketstotalling $65 million and $442 million (US dollars), respectively.5 The non-wovenwipe industry has numerous players likeUnilever, Procter & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson; however, now major playersare also entering the face mask market,such as L’Oréal purchasing Magic HoldingsInternational of Guangzhou, China foralmost $900 million (US dollars).6

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba can provideadditional functionality to products in this emerging market.

Study designOne per cent (1%) Floraesters K-20WJojoba (now referred to as ‘hydrolysedjojoba esters’) was incorporated into a standard non-woven face mask solutionand compared to the vehicle solutionwithout hydrolysed jojoba esters (seeTable 1). The study involved sixteenfemale subjects using the face mask once a day for two weeks. The followingmeasurements were taken before andafter two weeks of face mask use: skinhydration using the Corneometer CM 825

(Courage+Khazaka, Köln, Germany), skinelasticity and firmness were taken with theMPA Cutometer (Courage+Khazaka, Köln,Germany), and enlarged pores (defined asan enlarged pore that meets the detectablesize threshold of >0.5 mm) and fine linecounts (defined as thin lines produced byskin crepiness/thinning) using the BTBPClarity Pro Advanced and Facial Stage DM-3(BrighTex Bio-Photonics, LLC, San Jose, CA, USA). A consumer perception surveywas also completed after three days ofonce-daily face mask use on non-facemask users in Arizona, US (n=26 females)and current face mask users in Taiwan(n=26 females). All studies were double-blind, randomised, and vehicle controlled,

Benefits of hydrolysedjojoba esters in face masks

Table 1: Vehicle Face Mask.

Ingredient %w/w

Water 94.320

Butylene Glycol 4.000

Glycerin 1.500

Xanthan Gum 0.120

Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.060

Chlorphenesin 0.050

PEG-4 Laurate (and) Iodopropynyl 0.037Butylcarbamate

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.016

Methylisothiazolinone 0.005

ABSTRACT

In a series of double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomised clinical studies,Floraesters K-20W Jojoba [INCI:Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water(aqua)] was shown to increase skinelasticity, firmness, and hydration;decrease the number of enlarged poresand fine lines; and increase consumerpreference when incorporated into anonwoven facemask solution. These datasupport previous findings, demonstratingthe effectiveness of Floraesters K-20WJojoba in non-woven wipe applicationsfor skin hydration, redness reduction,and enhanced consumer preference.1

Figure 1: Increased skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity.

2 weeks

Hydration Firmness Elasticity

Cha

nge

from

bas

elin

e (%

)

25

20

15

10

5

0

–5




Advantages of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in Face Masks Continued:

once-daily face mask use (Table 2). The face mask which contained 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba performed statistically significantly better (p<0.05) than the vehicle (67% of consumers versus 40%, respectively) in reducing the number of fine lines. Furthermore, 80% of the consumers demonstrated a decrease in pore size when using the face mask with 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba compared to only 56% of the consumers for the face mask without Floraesters K-20W Jojoba (p<0.05).

Consumer PreferenceAlthough bio-instrumental data provide information on the functional benefits of a product, consumer perception data show whether or not consumers can realize the effects. The ability of 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba to enhance consumer preference was evaluated on both non-face mask users and face mask users. Both groups are equally important; face mask

studies were double-blind, randomized, and vehicle controlled, conducted under controlled environmental conditions (20-22°C and <50% relative humidity).

Increased Skin Hydration, Firmness, and Elasticity After two weeks of once-daily face mask use, the face mask containing 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba increased skin hydration by greater than 20% (p<0.0001), skin firmness by just over 8% (p<0.05), and skin elasticity just over 5% (p<0.01) versus the vehicle face mask (Figure 1).

Reduced Enlarged Pores and Fine Lines: Floraesters K-20W Jojoba produced dramatic benefits on reductions in pore size (as measured by decreased enlarged pore counts) and reductions in the number of fine lines after two weeks of

NATURALS

Reprinted from July 2014 PERSONAL CARE 3

conducted under controlled environmentalconditions (20˚C-22˚C and <50% relativehumidity).

Increased skin hydration,firmness, and elasticityAfter two weeks of once-daily face maskuse, the face mask containing 1%hydrolysed jojoba esters increased skinhydration by greater than 20%(p<0.0001), skin firmness by just over 8% (p<0.05), and skin elasticity just over5% (p<0.01) versus the vehicle face mask (Fig. 1).

Reduced enlarged pores and fine linesHydrolysed jojoba esters produced dramaticbenefits on reductions in pore size (asmeasured by decreased enlarged porecounts) and reductions in the number offine lines after two weeks of once-dailyface mask use (Table 2). The face maskwhich contained 1% hydrolysed jojobaesters performed statistically significantlybetter (p<0.05) than the vehicle (67% of consumers versus 40%, respectively) in reducing the number of fine lines.Furthermore, 80% of the consumersdemonstrated a decrease in pore size whenusing the face mask with 1% hydrolysedjojoba esters compared to only 56% of the consumers for the face mask withouthydrolysed jojoba esters (p<0.05).

Consumer preferenceAlthough bio-instrumental data provideinformation on the functional benefits of aproduct, consumer perception data showwhether or not consumers can realise theeffects. The ability of 1% hydrolysed jojobaesters to enhance consumer preferencewas evaluated on both non-face maskusers and face mask users. Both groupsare equally important; face mask users

demonstrate the expected standard inestablished markets, while non-face maskusers show the growth potential in some ofthe less established markets, like the US.

For the face mask users, the addition of 1% hydrolysed jojoba esters produced a 93% preference for overall face maskexperience (Fig. 2). This group ofconsumers also indicated a statisticallysignificant preference (p<0.05) for theface mask with hydrolysed jojoba estersover the vehicle face mask for the following categories: overall productexperience, absorbency of residual productinto skin, pleasing texture of residualproduct on skin, overall productperformance, less irritated skin, more

moisturised skin, smaller pore size,increased skin smoothness/softness, andmore soothed/ calmed skin (Figs. 2&3).

For the non-face mask users, theaddition of 1% hydrolysed jojoba estersresulted in 88% preference for overall facemask experience (Fig. 5). This group ofconsumers also indicated a statisticallysignificant preference (p<0.05) for theface mask with hydrolysed jojoba esterscompared to the vehicle for the followingcategories: overall product experience,lightness of residual product on skin,pleasing texture of residual product on skin,overall product performance, less irritatedskin, decreased redness, increased skinsmoothness/softness, and more soothed/

Table 2: Enlarged pores and fine lines.

Skin health parameter Test article Mean difference Subjects that showed(count) a decrease (%)

Enlarged pores Vehicle +1% K-20W –115 80%

Vehicle –21 56%

Fine lines Vehicle +1% K-20W –5 67%

Vehicle 2 40%

Figure 2: Overall face mask experience (non-face mask users). Figure 3: Overall product performance (non-face mask users).

Overall face mask experience

Absorbency of residualproduct into skin

Lightness of residual

product on skin

Pleasingtexture

of residualproduct on skin

Overall product experience

Increased skinsmoothness/softness

Lessirritated

skin

Smallerpore size

Moremoisturised

skin

Moresoothed/calmed

skin


100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%


NATURALS

Reprinted from July 2014 PERSONAL CARE 3

conducted under controlled environmentalconditions (20˚C-22˚C and <50% relativehumidity).

Increased skin hydration,firmness, and elasticityAfter two weeks of once-daily face maskuse, the face mask containing 1%hydrolysed jojoba esters increased skinhydration by greater than 20%(p<0.0001), skin firmness by just over 8% (p<0.05), and skin elasticity just over5% (p<0.01) versus the vehicle face mask (Fig. 1).

Reduced enlarged pores and fine linesHydrolysed jojoba esters produced dramaticbenefits on reductions in pore size (asmeasured by decreased enlarged porecounts) and reductions in the number offine lines after two weeks of once-dailyface mask use (Table 2). The face maskwhich contained 1% hydrolysed jojobaesters performed statistically significantlybetter (p<0.05) than the vehicle (67% of consumers versus 40%, respectively) in reducing the number of fine lines.Furthermore, 80% of the consumersdemonstrated a decrease in pore size whenusing the face mask with 1% hydrolysedjojoba esters compared to only 56% of the consumers for the face mask withouthydrolysed jojoba esters (p<0.05).

Consumer preferenceAlthough bio-instrumental data provideinformation on the functional benefits of aproduct, consumer perception data showwhether or not consumers can realise theeffects. The ability of 1% hydrolysed jojobaesters to enhance consumer preferencewas evaluated on both non-face maskusers and face mask users. Both groupsare equally important; face mask users

demonstrate the expected standard inestablished markets, while non-face maskusers show the growth potential in some ofthe less established markets, like the US.

For the face mask users, the addition of 1% hydrolysed jojoba esters produced a 93% preference for overall face maskexperience (Fig. 2). This group ofconsumers also indicated a statisticallysignificant preference (p<0.05) for theface mask with hydrolysed jojoba estersover the vehicle face mask for the following categories: overall productexperience, absorbency of residual productinto skin, pleasing texture of residualproduct on skin, overall productperformance, less irritated skin, more

moisturised skin, smaller pore size,increased skin smoothness/softness, andmore soothed/ calmed skin (Figs. 2&3).

For the non-face mask users, theaddition of 1% hydrolysed jojoba estersresulted in 88% preference for overall facemask experience (Fig. 5). This group ofconsumers also indicated a statisticallysignificant preference (p<0.05) for theface mask with hydrolysed jojoba esterscompared to the vehicle for the followingcategories: overall product experience,lightness of residual product on skin,pleasing texture of residual product on skin,overall product performance, less irritatedskin, decreased redness, increased skinsmoothness/softness, and more soothed/

Table 2: Enlarged pores and fine lines.

Skin health parameter Test article Mean difference Subjects that showed(count) a decrease (%)

Enlarged pores Vehicle +1% K-20W –115 80%

Vehicle –21 56%

Fine lines Vehicle +1% K-20W –5 67%

Vehicle 2 40%

Figure 2: Overall face mask experience (non-face mask users). Figure 3: Overall product performance (non-face mask users).


Absorbency of residualproduct into skin

Lightness of residual

product on skin

Pleasingtexture


Overall product experience

Increased skinsmoothness/softness

Lessirritated

skin

Smallerpore size

Moremoisturised

skin

Moresoothed/calmed

skin


100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%


users demonstrate the expected standard in established markets, while non-face mask users show the growth potential in some of the less established markets, like the US.

For the non-face mask users, the addition of 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba produced a 93% preference for overall face mask experience (Figure 2). This group of consumers also indicated a statistically significant preference (p<0.05) for the face mask with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba over the vehicle face mask for the following categories: overall product experience, absorbency of residual product into skin, pleasing texture of residual product on skin, overall product performance, less irritated skin, more moisturized


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for the following categories: ease of opening the face mask, absorbency of residual product into skin, increased skin firmness, and smaller pore size (Figures 4 and 5).

ConclusionsThe nonwoven industry, and more specifically face masks, is an industry that has only started to take off. Creating innovative, functional face masks is a must to continue to gain consumer acceptance. Floraesters K-20W Jojoba can readily be incorporated into these systems to provide synergistic skin hydration when used with glycerin.6 It is able to be dispersed in glycols, and has already begun to see use in various face masks currently being marketed in Asia. Floraesters K-20W Jojoba offers a botanically-derived, functional platform to nonwoven face masks which can provide a number of

beneficial attributes including skin hydration, skin elasticity and firmness, reduction of pore size and fine lines, as well as enhanced consumer preference.

References1 Oliphant T and Harper R. Advantages of jojoba esters in nonwovens. Personal Care Magazine 2012; 5(1): 94-96.2 Yaron A. Metabolism and Physiological Effects of Jojoba Oil. In: Wisniak J ed. The chemistry and technology of jojoba oil. Champagne, IL: American Oil Chemists’ Society Press, 1987: 251-65.3 Habashy RR, Abdel-Naim AB, Khalifa AE, and Al-Azizi MM. Anti-inflammatory effects of jojoba liquid wax in experimental models. Pharmacological Research. 2005; 51: 95-105.4 Oliphant T and Harper R. Nonwoven Wipes: Skin Barrier Improvement Using Natural Jojoba Esters. Poster session presented at: The World of Wipes 2012 International Conference. 2012 June 5-7; Chicago, IL.5 Burkitt L. L’Oréal adds a Chinese brand to global kit. The Wall Street Journal. April 15, 2014:B3.6 Oliphant T, Gilmore D, and Harper R. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters to Potentiate Glycerin Moisturization. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2011; 126(2): 96-103.

calmed skin. Additionally, these consumersindicated a directionally significantpreference (p<0.1) for the face mask withhydrolysed jojoba esters for the followingcategories: ease of opening the face mask, absorbency of residual product intoskin, increased skin firmness, and smallerpore size (Figs. 4&5).

ConclusionThe non-woven industry, and morespecifically face masks, is an industry that has only started to take off. Creatinginnovative, functional face masks is a mustto continue to gain consumer acceptance.Floraesters K-20W Jojoba can readily beincorporated into these systems to provide

synergistic skin hydration when used withglycerin.6 It is able to be dispersed inglycols, and has already begun to see use in various face masks currently beingmarketed in Asia. Floraesters K-20W Jojobaoffers a botanically-derived, functionalplatform to non-woven face masks whichcan provide a number of beneficialattributes including skin hydration, skinelasticity and firmness, reduction of poresize and fine lines, as well as enhancedconsumer preference.

References 1 Oliphant T, Harper R. Advantages of jojoba

esters in nonwovens. Personal Care 2012; 5 (1): 94-6.

PC

2 Yaron A. Metabolism and Physiological Effects ofJojoba Oil. In: Wisniak J ed. The chemistry andtechnology of jojoba oil. Champagne, IL: AmericanOil Chemists’ Society Press, 1987: 251-65.

3 Habashy RR, Abdel-Naim AB, Khalifa AE, Al-Azizi MM. Anti-inflammatory effects of jojobaliquid wax in experimental models. PharmacolRes 2005; 51 (2): 95-105.

4 Oliphant T, Harper R. Nonwoven wipes: skinbarrier improvement using natural jojoba esters.Poster session – The World of Wipes InternationalConference, 5-7 June 2012, Chicago, IL.

5 Burkitt L. L’Oréal adds a Chinese brand to globalkit. The Wall Street Journal, April 15, 2014: B3.

6 Oliphant T, Gilmore D, Harper R. Hydrolyzedjojoba esters to potentiate glycerin moisturization.Cosmetics & Toiletries 2011; 126 (2): 96-103.

NATURALS


Figure 4: Overall face mask experience (face mask users). Figure 5: Overall product performance (face mask users).



Ease of opening

face mask

Pleasingtexture


Lightness of residual product

on skin

Absorbency of residual product

on skin

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%


Less irritated skin

Moremoisturised

skin

Less oily skin

Decreasedskin redness

Smallerpore size

Whiter skin

Moresoothed/calmed

skinIncreased skin

smoothness/softness

Increasedskin firmness

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

FloraTech Corporate Office

291 East El Prado Court

Chandler, AZ 85225

Phone: +1-480.545.7000

Fax: +1-480.892.3000

Email: [email protected]


skin, smaller pore size, increased skin smoothness/softness, and more soothed/calmed skin (Figures 2 and 3).

For the non-face mask users, the addition of 1% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba resulted in 88% preference for overall face mask experience (Figure 4). This group of consumers also indicated a statistically significant preference (p<0.05) for the face mask with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba compared to the vehicle for the following categories: overall product experience, lightness of residual product on skin, pleasing texture of residual product on skin, overall product performance, less irritated skin, decreased redness, increased skin smoothness/softness, and more soothed/calmed skin. Additionally, these consumers indicated a directionally significant preference (p<0.1) for the face mask with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba

Advantages of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in Face Masks Continued:


Andy Pointon: [email protected]

Company Spotlight: Colorado Quality ProductsCompany NameColorado Quality Products

Year Established1999

LocationDenver, CO

Company Certifications/Capabilities a. Organic certification (70% and 95%) in addition to broad experience and a focus on natural/clean formulations. b. Filling and packaging solutions include tubes (4 grams to 16 oz), bottles and larger containers (0.5 oz to 5 gallons), packets (0.0625 oz - 1.0 oz), and bulk (drums and totes).

Types of Products Produced a. Facial: Anti-aging, cleansers, toners, hydrating mists, serums, facial oils, scrubs, chemical peelsb. Body: Washes, shower gels, lotions/creams, oils, exfoliators, tan extenders, slimming/cellulite productsc. Hair: Shampoo, conditioner, spray, serum, mousse, gel, pomade, leave-in conditioner, dry shampood. Other: Massage oils and lotions, spray deodorant, after-shave balms, body spray, hand soaps, shave cream, e. Oral: Mouthwash, toothpaste

Name & Position of Person Filling out the SpotlightAndy Pointon, CEO

By: Andy Pointon, CEOWhat is your favorite product your company produces and why?In collaboration with a new brand, we just launched a line of natural kids’ products - conditioning shampoo, body wash and detangler. Our customer had a tall request, they wanted the efficacy and performance of high-end products but a cost structure that would allow them to price their products competitively in a mass market environment. Further, they required ultra-low EWG ratings and utilization of raw materials that could meet the most stringent of organic and natural requirements. The products that our R&D team put together are truly innovative and position our client with a new line that is unprecedented in terms of its unique blend of natural ingredients, best in class performance, and low pricing.

What makes your company unique, why should clients work with you above anyone else?We believe that we provide a truly unique service to the market: a favorable combination of a best in class R&D team coupled with a small company environment that allows us to be highly reactive and provide a personable experience with customer inquiries. Our customers speak directly with our lead chemists and production managers; they can call us at any time and have our R&D or production managers on the phone within seconds. As

a testament to our customers’ satisfaction levels, our ten largest accounts have been working with us for an average of 9.5 years. As well, and in the spirit of putting our customers’ needs first, we don’t own formulas. (They belong to our customers!)

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Schedule8:00am – Breakfast, registration, check-in, and announcements

9:00am – Announcements & quarter sponsor remarks

9:15am –A novel, naturally derived range of emulsifiers for personal care Presented by Dennis Abbeduto

10:15am – Break

10:45am – The Importance of Cosmeceuticals in Aesthetics Presented by Terri Wojak

12:00pm – Lunch

1:00pm – Tubing at Gorgoza Park

4:00pm – End of Tubing Activity

THANK YOU TO OUR FIRST QUARTER SPONSOR, GLENN CORP & NEXEO!

Thanks for your attendance!

Snow ‘n LearnIMWSCC 1st Quarter Meeting

March 12, 2015

Hotel Park CityPark City, Utah


Presenters for Snow ‘n LearnTerri A. WojakEducation Director, True U Esthetics and True U Laser

Dennis AbbedutoSenior R&D Chemist, Colonial Chemical, Inc.

Terri Wojak is a highly sought after professional with 20 years of experi-ence in the aesthetic industry. Along with facial plastic surgeon Steven H. Dayan, MD FACS, Wojak developed True U Esthetics and True U Laser- two corporations focused on provid-ing advanced education for profes-sionals in the aesthetic industry. She is a respected authority on skin care in a medical setting, education, and

business development on multiple levels.

Wojak has built 30 individual courses based on skin care in a medical setting. More than 40 articles by Wojak have ap-peared in a multitude of industry magazines and she has published two books, “Aesthetics Exposed: Mastering Skin Care in a Medical Setting & Beyond” in May 2014 and “Mastering Medical Esthetics” debuted in 2009. Recently created and launched Real Skin, a newsletter for estheticians and medical professionals.

Terri has trained over 3000 estheticians and medical pro-fessionals on the importance of incorporating skin care into cosmetic medicine, ultimately helping patients and medical providers alike.

A novel, naturally derived range of emulsifiers for personal careWhile the demand for more naturally based surfactants increases, few 100% biobased, PEG-free emulsifiers exist to date. Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymers are naturally-derived, non-ionic surfactants which are eco-friendly and well-suited for next-gener-

ation personal care products. Starting with alkyl polyglucosides, Colonial Chemical has produced a series of copolymers with Sorbitan Oleate. The resultant products have 100% renewable carbon content, are readily biodegradable, and have an outstand-ing safety and toxicological profile. Potential applications range from low HLB W/O emulsifiers to higher HLB O/W emulsifiers and solubilizers.

Dennis Abbeduto has over 15 years surfactant and formu-lation chemistry experience and currently works for Co-lonial Chemical, Inc. in Southeast Tennessee as a Senior R&D Chemist. Prior to this he worked for Alberto-Culver Co in Chicago, Illinois on skin care technology and as a formulation chemist for the St. Ives brand. He also worked for McIntyre Group, Ltd in University Park, Illinois as an R&D synthesis and applications chemist.

Dennis has a BS in chemistry from Governors State Uni-versity in University Park. Dennis has been an SCC mem-ber since 1997, serving as Midwest Chapter Secretary and Chair, and received a chapter Young Scientist Award in 2004.

Dennis resides in Chattanooga, Tennessee with his wife, son, and three cats.

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Silica, Sulfates, and Sky Decks: a Q4 SynopsisOur 2014 Grand Seminar was held at the beautiful Natural History Museum of Utah, located in the hills of Salt Lake City. The view of the Salt Lake Valley from the Sky Deck on this clear, balmy day was remarkable.

Our first speaker was Natalia Krupkin, who presented “Versatility of Silica in Cosmetic Formulations.” Natalia spoke on the multifunctional properties of Silica and the wide variety of formulations where Silica adds value and function.

Our second speaker was Phil Cotrell, who presented “Origins of Sulfate Free and Current Market Status.” Phil spoke about the how the Sulfate-Free trend started, the challenges of formulating these products, and how to resolve these challenges.

Thank you to our sponsors Grace and Chemtec, and all of the attendees. We appreciate your support.

Eric Scarborough: [email protected]

By: Eric Scarborough


Lipo to become

We’ve got the whole world in our hands………. well 100 countries at least.

International Cosmetic & Food Regulatory Consultants

International product notifications Label development/reviews Responsible party services Product Information Files (PIF)

Ingredient/formula compliance reviews Claims development/review In-country regulatory maintenance Vendor documentation assessments

www.theregulatorydepartment.com Scott Taylor (801) 754-4443 [email protected]

first quarter 2015 the cosmetic summit9. virtual reality – this is going to grow in 2015. perhaps...

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