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ISSUE 56

Fiery autumn foliage

Fig trees

Grow potatoes

Bottlebrush

Fight lawn grubs

Sweet peas

For more gardening hints & tips, visit www.aboutthegarden.com.auFor more gardening hints & tips, visit www.aboutthegarden.com.au

Autumn 2011

About this issue...FeaturesPelargonium: Everyone’s favourite geranium! 4Autumn ablaze 6Fabulous fi gs 8The lowdown on lawn grubs 10 The A-to-B on avocados 15 Autumn-fl owering ‘must haves’ 16Perfect potatoes 18Brilliant bottlebrush 20Planting sweet peas 22

RegularsAutumn 2011 Garden Diary 12Autumn 2011 handy hints & tips 14Subscribe to About the Garden 21

Issue 56Autumn 2011

The change of season and refreshing autumn weather brings with it new inspiration for our gardens. Now is the time to plant, grow and create! We are very lucky in this country where

autumn really is ‘the other spring’. Happy gardening and God bless...

Prayer is the soul’s sincere desire,Uttered or unexpressed;The motion of a hidden fi reThat trembles in the breast.— James Montgomery

• Managing Director: Conway Searle• Contributors: Claire Bickle, Noel Burdette, Frida Forsberg, Alana Searle and Ashley Searle• Magazine Manager: Alana Searle• Design & Layout: Frida Forsberg — ATG Graphics Dept.• ATG Group Co-ordinator & Advertising: Jason Searle• Front Cover Photography: Maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba) by Noel BurdetteAbout the Garden is published seasonally byAbout the Garden Pty. Ltd. ABN 21 076 919 9924914 D’Aguilar Highway, Kilcoy or P.O. Box 70, Kilcoy Qld. 4515Phone: (07) 5422 3090 • Fax: (07) 5497 2287Email: atg@aboutthegarden.com.au

Con Searle

The material appearing in About the Garden is subject to copyright. Other than as permitted by the Copyright Act, no part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. No responsibility is accepted by About the Garden Pty. Ltd. for the accuracy of information contained in the text, illustrations or advertisements. Although believed to be accurately and correctly sourced, thereof disclaims any liability against itself, editor/s or employees arising from any person acting on the material herein. The opinions expressed in the magazine, or by contributors, do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. ©Copyright 2011 About the Garden Pty. Ltd.

autumn foliageFlamboyant

Here at About the Garden, we are always on the look out for the perfect tree and on page 6 we think we’ve got pretty good contenders. Deciduous trees will provide a kaleidoscope of colour throughout the year, as well as provide shade at all the right times. Here we have the Gingko tree in its variable leafy apparel.

in garden beds should not need watering except during hot, dry weather.

FeedingPelargoniums don’t need a lot of fertiliser, but will benefi t from a layer of Searles Real Compost being added to the soil every autumn and again in spring for best growth and fl owering. Sprinkle Searles Robust Plus Controlled Release Fertiliser according to the directions but be mindful not to overfeed. Never use a high nitrogen fertiliser on pelargoniums as it will promote excessive foliage at the expense of fl owers and can make the stems soft and more prone to rot.

MulchingThe best mulch for pelargoniums is an inorganic material like gravel or pale-coloured pebbles. A soft material like straw can also be used very lightly around them — don’t pack it in — and keep it well clear of the stems in hot weather.

PruningPelargoniums can start to look lanky after a season’s growth and can develop a more pleasing, compact shape if pruned occasionally. Pruning off spent fl owers will also encourage more blooms and prolong the life of your plants, so don’t be afraid to tidy up your pelargoniums with a light pruning. Their fl eshy stems don’t need to be cut with secateurs; scissors are suffi cient for giving them a trim.

Pests and diseasesPelargoniums are rarely affected by insects and recover quickly if they are. They can be susceptible to fungal infections in damp, waterlogged or humid conditions. Spots on the leaves can be caused by rust infections which can be controlled by spraying with Searles Rose Pro. Review your watering regime if the soil is consistently damp and improve drainage by taking cuttings and planting the new plants into built up garden beds.

PropagatingPelargoniums are very easy to grow from cuttings. Simply snip off a stem and place it in a jar of water until it grows roots, then plant it out into the garden. The new plants will be identical to the parent plant and this can be a great way of creating a sense of continuity throughout your garden.

In the potPelargoniums are still one of our favourite fl owering plants for pots and window boxes. Plant them into pots of Searles Peat 80 Plus for best results and don’t feed for the fi rst 4 months after potting. Apply Searles Robust Plus according to the instructions and water when the mix feels dry (in dry weather, watering about twice weekly for terracotta pots and once weekly for plastic pots in a good guide). Pelargoniums tend to prefer having their roots a little bit restricted, so try to avoid planting new plants straight into a large pot. Instead, start with a smaller pot and repot it every two years.

Pelargonium or geranium?Pelargoniums were once scientifi cally classifi ed under the genus name ‘geranium’ and although they have since been re-classed under the genus pelargonium, ‘geranium’ remains their common name in daily language. Whenever you see the word ‘geranium’ on plant labels in garden centres, it is almost always a reference to pelargoniums. Plants labelled as zonal geraniums, scented geraniums, ivy geraniums and regal geraniums are all actually pelargoniums. (Look closer at the scientifi c name on the plant label. The word ‘pelargonium’ will be in capitals.) In this article, the scientifi cally correct name ‘pelargonium’ will be used to avoid confusion. Although there are some 250 species in the pelargonium genus, the

ones most common in home gardens are usually cultivars of

a couple of species native to southern Africa. There are also pelargoniums native to Australia, the middle east and other parts of Africa.

Where to plant Pelargoniums will grow and fl ower best in full sun, although they can also do well in part shade. Tolerant of heat and dry conditions, they are also an excellent choice in coastal gardens. Pelargoniums can’t survive heavy frosts however and so are often treated as an annual in cool regions.

Preparing the soilPelargoniums can often be seen rambling through older gardens, apparently thriving on neglect. They will grow quite happily in poor, sandy soils but if you want to grow really beautiful pelargoniums, especially the new hybrids with their bigger, brighter fl owers, it pays

to take a little extra care in creating the best growing conditions for them. Their fl eshy roots are susceptible to fungal problems in waterlogged conditions, especially in the subtropics and tropics where humid conditions are common, so the trick is to ensure they have excellent drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, build up garden beds into mounds with a sandy loam such as Searles Garden Soil Mix. (One exception to the rule would be the rose-scented geranium which loves clay soils and can actually be used for breaking up heavy soil.)

Water requirementsAlthough pelargoniums are drought tolerant, they will perform best if watered regularly when in growth or in fl ower. They dislike having moisture sitting on their leaves for too long, so water the roots rather than the leaves, especially in cool or humid conditions. Established plants

Native pelargoniums

PelargoniumPelargoniums are perfect for bright, long-lasting colour in sunny garden beds. They fl ower in all shades of pink, orange, red, white and mauve, often with attractively patterned foliage. So easy to care for that they are often taken for granted, they are perfect for gardeners who want a traditional-style garden with reliable, colourful fl owers. Is there any wonder that this humble perennial is one of the most popular garden plants all around the world?

Everyone’s favourite geranium!

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Plants of the geranium genus

are hardy in snowy and frosty areas and are often referred to as ‘true

geraniums’ or ‘cranesbills’. Although related, they are quite different from

pelargoniums and far less common in Australian

gardens.

Magenta Stork’s Bill (Pelargonium rodneyanum) is a small native pelargonium with a prostrate growth habit which is great in rockeries or as a colourful border plant. One of seven known Australian native pelargoniums and bearing bright pink to magenta

flowers, it is also great in pots or hanging baskets. Feed it with Searles Recharge Sprinkle & Grow and it will flower for most of the year. Another native pelargonium that is less common in home gardens is Austral Stork’s Bill (Pelargonium australe) that bears white flowers.

Coral and pink zonal geraniums

VarietiesWatch out for the new release pelargoniums in garden centres this autumn such as the Red Shrub Zonal Geranium Big Red (Calliope). Others to look out for are Ivy geraniums which are excellent for trailing from hanging baskets or over embankments and Scented geraniums which can smell strongly of mint, lemon, rose, pineapple, cinnamon, chocolate mint, lime, apricot, apple and many other delicious aromas when their foliage is crushed.

White zonal geraniums

Hit pink zonal geraniums

Magenta Stork’s Bill

When planting any large When planting any large tree, be mindful of tree, be mindful of its proximity to house its proximity to house gutters, paving, pools gutters, paving, pools and neighbouring fence and neighbouring fence lines. If possible, lines. If possible, discuss your choice with discuss your choice with your neighbours and maybe your neighbours and maybe both parties can benefit both parties can benefit from the outcome.from the outcome.

LiquidambarA large tree by most standards, the Liquidambar, (Liquidambar styracafl ua) is considered one of the best trees for autumn foliage in warmer climates. Not to be confused with Canadian or Japanese maples, these handsome trees are a tried and true favourite in warmer climates and popular with regional councils who use them in public spaces for their attractive habit and glorious autumn colour. Liquidambar is typically a large specimen tree which needs space to spread its branches, although it tends to grow tall rather than wide. For smaller gardens,

Autumn coloured foliage in gardens and on street trees is an everyday affair in cool climates. For gardeners in warmer areas of Australia however, the shorter days and cooler temperatures of autumn sometimes don’t arrive until about May. This upsets the biological clock of many truly cold climate plants, making them unsuitable for the subtropics and warmer temperate regions. There are however a range of deciduous plants that will grow happily in warmer climates, allowing warm-climate gardeners too, to fi ll their gardens with autumnal magic.

Crepe myrtleKnown best for its brightly coloured summer blooms, the crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp.) also puts on a dazzling display of autumn foliage in cherry red, fi re orange and gold. There are many forms available and the brightest colours can be found in the ‘Indian summer’ range. Lagerstroemia are an easy-care tree for anywhere in Australia. They need minimal pruning which is best done in mid winter to open up the shape of the tree. Avoid digging around the roots where possible as crepe myrtles are prone to producing suckers as a response to root damage.

Notes: About 6 metres tall, full sun to part shade (best colour in full sun), dry tolerant, fi ts all sized gardens, all climates.

Maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba)

Crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp.)

Chinese Tallow wood (Sapium sebiferum)

Persimmon (Diospyros sp.)

Pecan nut (Carya illinoinensis)

Deciduous trees allow winter Deciduous trees allow winter sunlight, yet provide shade sunlight, yet provide shade during summer heat. Fallen during summer heat. Fallen leaves also act as a natural leaves also act as a natural mulch. Leaves on driveways mulch. Leaves on driveways or paths can be raked onto or paths can be raked onto the lawn and mown over with the lawn and mown over with the lawn mower. They can the lawn mower. They can then be placed on garden then be placed on garden beds or simply left on the beds or simply left on the lawn to break down.lawn to break down.

Liquidambar (Liquidambar styracafl ua)

Swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum)

Caribbean copper plant(Euphorbia Cotinifolia) ‘Atropurpurea’

Many of us in warm climates assume that fi ery autumn foliage is a privilege for only cool climate gardeners, but with clever plant selection you can have your warm climate and a blaze of autumn glory, too!

Autumn

the cultivar to look for is ‘Gumball’. This is a grafted, dwarf strain that will not exceed four metres in height, but will also be a slow grower. Available with autumn foliage in hues of orange, maroon, red or buttercup, the best time to purchase a liquidambar is in autumn as each plant will have a distinct individual colour that it will retain throughout its life.

Notes: Up to 20 metres tall (common variety), full sun, dry tolerant, suited to medium to large gardens (‘Gumball’ is suited to small gardens).

PersimmonWarm-climate gardeners are often surprised to discover the persimmon (Diospyros sp). This fruiting tree from China is known widely for its luscious fruit and loves a subtropical climate, yet will develop amazing autumn colours. The large green, leathery leaves that clothe the tree from September to April turn vibrant tones of burnt orange, scarlet and yellow creating the impression of the tree being on fi re! The persimmon tree is essential in the garden for spectacular, late autumn colour.

Notes: up to 4 metres tall, full sun to part shade, autumn fruiting, water deeply when young, suits all gardens sizes including small to medium, all climates.

PecanOn the subject of fruiting trees, the pecan nut (Carya illinoinensis) revels in both the humid subtropics and temperate regions. This is a sizeable tree that requires plenty of room to develop its handsome canopy and rounded shape. This tree is excellent on acreage properties where it can be used to line long, wide driveways or provide a shady climbing tree. Its fruit (nuts) mature in late summer. Of course, it also puts on a magnifi cent late autumn display of brilliant yellow foliage.

Notes: Up to 12 metres tall, full sun, water well when young, suitable for large gardens only, all climates.

For something more unusual...Less common species such as maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba), swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Chinese Tallow wood (Sapium sebiferum) can also make wonderful additions to warm climate gardens. Although less well-known, these trees have been grown in cultivation for hundreds of years and will take centre stage when they produce their beautifully coloured foliage.

Maidenhair treeThe green, fern-like foliage of the gingko is hard to resist through the

spring and summer and its bright yellow autumn hues add a special note to the garden. Even though these beautiful trees can grow to over twenty metres in height under ideal conditions, they will also happily grow in large pots for many years.

Notes: Up to 20 metres (average 8 metres in home gardens), humus-rich soil, light shade when young, very slow growing, suitable for large pots. Tolerates dry periods. Cold, warm temperate and subtropical climates (struggles in hot tropics).

Swamp cypressThe swamp cypress is a deciduous member of the conifer family and graces gardens in late autumn with shades of rich toffee, caramel and butterscotch. It can help bind soil in erosion prone sites and as the name implies, it prefers plenty of moisture. This is a medium to tall tree up to eight metres in height that casts dense shade in the summer so an open position will suit it best.

Notes: Up to 8 metres tall, large gardens, heavy clay soil, full sun. Cold regions to subtropics.

Chinese tallow woodThe Chinese tallow wood is a small tree with delicate foliage. Up to seven metres tall, it produces heart-shaped leaves that turn tantalizing shades of red, orange and russet. It is a fast growing species and is well suited to smaller gardens.

Notes: Up to 7 metres tall, full sun to light shade, suitable for small or medium gardens.

Caribbean copper plantA little known small tree or large shrub is the Caribbean copper plant (Euphorbia Cotinifolia) ‘Atropurpurea’. This member of the poinsettia family has been grown for many decades in tropical style gardens, yet is undervalued for its fabulous autumn colour. Its wine coloured, rounded foliage is the subtropics’ answer to the ‘smoke bush’ (Cotinus coggygria) of which it takes its botanical reference name. Fast growing, it reaches maturity in as little as three years. The rich, burgundy-coloured foliage turns to copper and amber in late autumn, after which it can be heavily pruned and kept at a height of three metres. This plant is easy to propagate from cuttings taken in winter.

Notes: Up to 4 metres tall, any soil type, full sun to light shade, well drained soil. Suitable for small and medium gardens. Suited to the subtropics.

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There’s nothing like the sweet, juicy fl esh of a freshly ripe fi g straight off the tree. A highly ornamental tree in both formal and informal gardens, the fi g can be grown in most parts of Australia. An excellent source of dietary fi bre, calcium and a range of other nutrients, the fi g is an easy and abundant cropper, making it one of the most rewarding trees to grow in home gardens.

Fabulous fi gs

Pictured: ‘Brown Turkey’ fi gs ripening on the tree.

Botanical triviaBotanical triviaWhat we call the fig tree’s ‘fruit’ is actually a structure called a synconium. It is not a fruit in the botanical sense, but a cluster of inverted flowers contained within a fleshy stem!

HarvestMost fi g trees produce two crops annually. The fi rst crop is known as the Breba crop and usually has larger fruit but a smaller yield. The second crop is called the Higos crop and is considered the main crop for the year. Figs are very perishable and fresh fruit are best eaten within days of picking for best quality. (Drying is an effi cient way of storing them but it is said that about 40% of C and B group vitamins are lost in this process.) Figs are ready to harvest when they droop rather than stand erect on their stems and should feel soft when

The common fi g (Ficus carica) is a deciduous, large shrub or small tree, typically growing to a height of 3 or 4 metres. It originates from south-west Asia and is believed to have been distributed by humans through the Mediterranean from Afghanistan to Portugal in ancient times. Neolithic subfossils of fi gs which date back to between 9200 and 9400 BC suggest it was the fi rst food crop ever cultivated by humans.

Growing fi gsFig trees love a hot, fairly dry climate so are ideal for most parts of Australia, where they can be planted at any time of year. They need full sun but dislike strong winds, so choose a sheltered position if this is an issue in your area. Although they grow happily in alkaline soils, they especially enjoy a compost-rich, slightly acidic soil, so don’t hesitate

to dig plenty of Searles 5IN1 Plus into the soil before planting. Avoid high nitrogen fertilisers as this will encourage excess leaf production at the expense of fruit. Good drainage is essential, so if you have heavy, clay soil, build up soil in mounds to improve drainage or plant on a slope where water will drain away easily in wet weather. Figs enjoy a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters, so don’t overwater during the summer. Excessively wet weather or overwatering during fruit set can cause the fruit to split. They can also be sensitive to frost when young, so be prepared to protect them with a towel or shade cloth if necessary, for their fi rst 1–3 winters. Once established, they can tolerate quite heavy frosts.

Nutritional Nutritional informationinformationFigs are high in natural sugars, minerals and fibre. They also contain good levels of potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, copper and manganese. Dried figs contain an impressive 250mg of calcium per 100g, compared to whole milk with only 118mg.

given a gentle squeeze. The fruit may split slightly and the ‘eye’ at the base of the fruit may form a small opening and ooze a sweet syrup. Hold the fi g from the stem and twist-pull gently to remove it. Ripe fruit can be stored in the fridge for several days, but don’t wash it until it is ready to be eaten. Figs can be harvested when almost ripe and allowed to ripen at room temperature indoors. Unripe fruit that is picked prematurely will ooze a milky, latex sap from the stem and will never ripen properly.

Pruning fi g treesJudicious pruning can encourage a more compact and productive tree. A newly-planted tree with a single stem should be pruned 60cm from the ground to encourage branching out, then three of the resulting stems should be selected to form the main framework. Fruit are born on the axils of leaves on the current season’s wood. Encourage vigorous fruiting by cutting back each season’s growth by about one third each winter.

PropagationFig trees are easy to propagate from cuttings, which can be taken in winter during your annual prune. Cuttings can be wrapped in newspaper and stored in the refrigerator for several weeks to keep them fresh. This can also help ‘overwinter’ them if you live in a tropical or subtropical climate. If you have more than

Potted figsPotted figsFig trees can perform better (with more fruit and less rampant growth) if their roots are restricted, such as when they are grown in a large pot. Submerge the pot in the soil to keep the roots cool and reduce the need for watering. Once a year, lift the pot out of the ground and trim any roots that have outgrown the pot.

Ask for COOPEX at your nearest gardening retail outlet.

For long-lasting protection, use

Coopex.Controls spiders, ants,

mosquitoes, cockroaches and flies.

8

What you’ll need:

one type of tree, make sure you label them with their variety. Plant them in pots of Searles Premium Potting Mix (make sure you plant them the right way up) and repot the plants as they grow. Fig trees grown from cuttings don’t take long to start fruiting and make great Mother’s Day presents!

Pests and diseasesFigs are affected by few pests and diseases if given a warm, sunny position and well drained soil. If fi gs are affected by fruit fl y, erect Searles Fruit Fly Traps to curtail these pests. Leaf-eating beetles can be controlled with Searles Bug Beater.

A complicated sex life...Fig trees have three different genders and can only be pollinated by a type of tiny wasp. Male trees (caprifi gs) bear woody, inedible fruit; female trees need a suitable male tree nearby to pollinate them before they can bear fruit (these trees bear fruit with fertile

seeds); infertile trees don’t need a pollinator and bear infertile, unseeded fruit. The fi g trees typically available in garden centres are of the third, infertile variety.

Popular fi g varieties are: Black Genoa, Brown Turkey, Adriatic Fig and Preston Prolifi c.

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Army worm

The army worm caterpillar is a major pest.

Army worm can wipe out large areas of lawn.

White Curl Grub

White curl grub Some wasps prey on white curl grub.Telltale dead patches on lawn

ArmywormThe first type of lawn grub is the armyworm. These army-coloured, khaki-green caterpillars are the larvae of moths of the Noctuidae family. They are a nuisance throughout Queensland and New South Wales and sometimes occur in plague proportions. Armyworm consume the leaves, stems and seed heads of grass. They can decimate entire lawn areas, leaving behind practically nothing but bare earth.

How to detect armywormIf you notice patches of lawn suddenly dying, this could be evidence of armyworm activity. You may also notice small, grey moths flying around your lawn. (These moths are armyworms in

their adult stage, looking for a place to lay their eggs.)

White curl grubThe second type of lawn grub is the white curl grub. These white, ‘C’-shaped grubs are the larvae of the cockchafer beetle or African black beetle. (Commonly, these grubs are wrongly identified as ‘witchetty grubs’ when observed by home gardeners.) White curl grubs live beneath the soil surface and feed on the healthy roots of grass. Like armyworm, these pests have been known to destroy entire lawn areas completely within a matter of weeks.

How to detect white curl grubLook for visual signs, such as circular patches in your lawn turning brown or yellow. Your lawn may feel soft and spongy to walk on and you may find grass lying loosely on top of your lawn. (In advanced cases, sections of lawn will be able to be lifted off the surface of the soil like a toupee, as there is no root system left.) For a final confirmation that white curl grubs are present, place a wet

There are two main types of lawn grub, each of which can cause devastation to lawns before you are even aware of their presence. Here are some easy ways to recognise and deal with them before they do too much damage.

hessian bag on your lawn overnight. In the early morning, lift the bag to see if the grubs have come to the surface.

Further signsof lawn grubsIn some areas where the bandicoot is common, you may find holes in your lawn from where this native animal has been digging, attracted by the grubs in your lawn. You may also see wasps hovering over your lawn. Certain species of wasp are a predator of lawn grubs and use them as hosts to feed their young.

What time of yearMost lawn grub activity occurs in the warmer times of year from early spring, through summer and into autumn.

TreatmentLawn grubs are easy to control. Sprinkle Searles® Lawn Grub Killer evenly over the ground where lawn grubs are present and water

it in well. The granular shaker bottle means there are no messy concoctions or spraying. For the white curl grub, use the hessian bag test (mentioned earlier) after a week to make sure all grubs are gone. Keep watching for evidence of lawn grubs as they can return throughout the warm season. It may be necessary to reapply the lawn grub killer every 4–5 weeks. Apply lawn grub killer late in the evening for best results.It is advisable to start applying Searles® Lawn Grub Killer from early to mid spring, before these pests have had the chance to lay their eggs.

There are two main types of lawn grub, each of which can cause devastation to lawns before you are even aware of their presence Here are some easy ways to recognise and

lawngrubs

The lowdown on

10 11

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HerbsPlant chervil, chives, chicory, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic bulbs, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, sage, sorrel, rosemary, thyme, winter tarragon and yarrow.

Fruit and vegetablesPlant broad beans, broccoli, Brussels sprout, cauliflower, lettuce, onion, peas, radish, shallot, spinach, spring onion, tomato and turnip.

More advice...Fertilise all gardens and lawns with an organic fertiliser such as Searles 5IN1 Plus. Apply Searles Penetraide Re-Wetting Granules to allow better water penetration.

Inland areasArid or outback areas

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Autumn 2011Regional Garden Diary

Tropical

Subtropical

Temperate

Cool

Arid

REGIONAL MAP

Cabbage needs a steady supply of water and nutrients for a sweet, tender crop. Plant it in full sun with good drainage. A slightly acidic, clay soil is ideal. Water regularly, remove weeds and apply Searles Fish & Kelp Plus organic plant food every two weeks. Harvest when the heads feel hard.

FlowersSow ageratum, alyssum, candytuft, carnation, cineraria, coreopsis, cornflower, cyclamen, delphinium, dianthus, everlasting daisy, Iceland poppy, impatiens, marigold (English), pansy, snapdragon, sweet pea and viola.

HerbsPlant chervil, chicory, coriander, fennel, garlic bulbs, lavender, marjoram, oregano, parsley, rocket, sage, sorrel, rosemary, thyme, winter tarragon and yarrow.

Fruit & VegetablesPlant broad beans, broccoli, lettuce, onion, peas, radish, shallots, spinach, spring onion and turnip.

More advice...Camellia season is upon us again. If there were varieties you were after last season and couldn’t find them, your local nursery may order them in if you ask for them, now. If your azaleas have petal blight, remove affected blooms and spray with Searles Mancozeb Plus. Later in the season, prepare garden beds for roses by mixing in plenty of Searles 5IN1 Plus.

Subtropical — Coastal

FlowersSow ageratum, aster, balsam, carnation, celosia, chrysanthemum, cockscomb, coleus, cosmos, dahlia, dianthus, everlasting daisy, gaillardia, gazania, geranium, gerbera, impatiens, kangaroo paw, African marigold, French marigold, nasturtium, petunia, portulaca, rudbeckia, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, torenia, verbena, wallflower and zinnia.

HerbsPlant basil, coriander, garlic, garlic chives, marjoram, oregano, parsley, thyme and winter tarragon.

Fruit & VegetablesSow beans, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, melons, mustard, okra, onion, parsnip, potato, pumpkin, radish, rosella, silver beet, squash, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato and zucchini.

More advice...Prepare garden beds around Easter for planting flowers and vegetables. Fertilise regularly and mulch well.

Tropical — Wet & Dry Tropics

South-east Qld& Northern NSWNorth Queensland

Cold & Southern Tableland areas

Temperate areas

FlowersPlant ageratum, alyssum, cineraria, cleome, cyclamen, forget-me-not, Iceland poppy, lobelia, lupin, marigold, pansy, petunia, phlox, primula, stock, verbena, wallflower and zinnia.

HerbsPlant basil, chives, coriander, lemongrass, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, tarragon and thyme.

Fruit and vegetablesPlant beans, beetroot, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, cauliflower, cucumber, English spinach, kohlrabi, leek, lettuce, onion, parsnip, pumpkin, radish, silver beet, spring squash, swede, sweet corn, tomato, turnip and zucchini.

More advice...Water flowering annuals and vegetable gardens as required. Snap off withered rhododendron trusses. Watch potted house plants for dry-out and feed with diluted Searles Fish & Kelp Plus when watering. Apply Searles Flourish Tomato & Vegetable fortnightly for tastier vegetables and bigger blooms. Keep an eye out for pests such as aphids, snails and caterpillars. Give Japanese and Siberian iris clumps a deep watering as they come into flower.

FlowersPlant alyssum, calendula, candytuft, carnation, cineraria, cornflower, cosmos, daisy, foxglove, lobelia, nasturtium, nemesia, pansy, poppy, primula, schizanthus, snapdragon, sweet pea and viola.

HerbsPlant coriander, garlic bulbs, marjoram, oregano, parsley, thyme and winter tarragon.

Fruit & VegetablesPlant broad beans, English spinach, green beans and peas.

More advice...Remove spent summer annuals. Prolong flowering on remaining annuals by dead-heading and applying Searles Flourish Soluble Plant Food every fortnight. Broccoli should be ready to start harvesting. Grow English spinach fast with regular watering and a fortnightly application of Searles Fish & Kelp Plus. Mulch to suppress cool climate weeds which will be starting to emerge now.

Melbourne

Sydney

Now is the time to prune summer-fl owering trees and shrubs that have fi nished fl owering and tidy up formal hedges after their fast summer growth. Apply a generous dose of Searles Kickalong Complete Organic Plant Food for a new season of healthy growth.

Your summer crop of tomatoes may be fi nished, but it’s not too late to plant more! Give tomatoes a well-drained, compost rich soil, full sun and feed fortnightly with Searles Fish & Kelp Plus.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) fl ower abundantly in a range of cheerful hues. With varieties ranging in size from 20cmH to 80cmH, this charming perennial can provide lasting colour throughout the cool season. Plant in full sun or part shade in a well drained, well-composted soil and feed with Searles Flourish Soluble Plant Food for best results.

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Now is the time to recharge pot plants which are looking tired after the summer heat. Trim back lanky stems and spent blooms, sprinkle Searles Recharge over the potting mix and water it in well.

Bare patches appearing on your lawn are an invitation to weeds, and Lawn grubs are the likely culprit. Control them by sprinkling Searles Lawn Grub Killer and water it in thoroughly.

Bird’s nest ferns will bring a touch of the rainforest to your garden. Give them a sheltered position with fi ltered light and keep moist during dry periods.

fl ofi nheAp

Aussie native, bird’s nest ferns (Asplenium nidus)

Lawn grub damage on buffalo grassCherry tomatoes

Potted Mandevilla ‘Scarlet Pimpernel’

The current wet conditions are a great opportunity to plant new trees and shrubs as it will help them get their roots deep into the ground and make them less vulnerable to dry out and extremes of temperature. It will also help them develop a nice, leafy canopy that will keep the ground cool and less prone to dryout if (and when) the next dry season hits. Trees and shrubs that had a good start in life can be tougher in the face of adversity once they are established, so take advantage of the rainy weather!

Cherry tomatPersimmon tree

Plant pansies now for colourful garden beds right through until spring. Available in just about every

colour of the rainbow, pansies will bear bigger and brighter blooms as the cold progresses. Remove spent blooms and feed with Searles Flourish Soluble Plant Food for best fl owering. Also great in pots of Searles Peat 80 Plus potting mix, mulch them well and water regularly.

NewcastleOrange

Rockhampton

Mackay

Wodonga

Blackall

Longreach

Warwick

QLD

NSW

VIC

TAS

Autumn 2011Hints & tips

Tropical

Subtropical

Temperate

Cool

Arid

REGIONAL MAP

Fallen leaves from deciduous trees make an excellent compost. They can be left on the lawn to break down or if you prefer a more tidy look, rake them up and put them in the compost.

The delightful abutilon or Chinese lantern is related to the hibiscus and is easy to grow. Plant in full sun or part shade in a fertile, well-drained soil. Water well when young and during hot, dry periods. Tip prune to encourage bushiness and keep well mulched.

Iron chlorosis is a common condition in garden plants which appears as a yellowing between

the veins of leaves. It indicates that the plant is defi cient in iron, which is caused by the soil being either too alkaline, or simply iron defi cient. Iron chlorosis can be corrected with Searles Iron Chelate.

The beautiful Costa Rican skullcap (Scutellana costaricana) is a small shrub (to 90cmH) that can fl ower all year. It loves warm, tropical temperatures and semi shade. Great as an indoor plant on a sunny windowsill, keep it moist and don’t let it dry out between watering. Attracts butterfl ies and hummingbirds.

The main harvest will be ripening on your raspberry bushes about now. Make sure they are well-supported and if you have been applying a nitrogen-rich fertiliser you should stop it now for better fruit production. Prune off spent canes and harvest berries regularly in wet weather to prevent fungal infections.

Zoysia is a fantastic ‘no-mow’ lawn! On embankments, between pavers and in pots, it can be hardier than other lawn. Its slow growth rate can mean it is slow to recover from damage and can be taken over by faster-growing plants, so it is best suited to low-traffi c situations. In warm climates, Zoysia tenuifolia is soft underfoot, in cooler zones, try Zoysia japonica.

Now is the time to plant spring fl owering bulbs but don’t plant them before April in warmer areas as they could emerge before winter if planted too early. Plant them in well drained soil, pointy-end up, and about as deep as they are high.

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is an unusual vegetable because it prefers acidic soil and doesn’t mind part shade. Give it good drainage, dig in plenty of compost, water regularly and apply Searles Fish & Kelp Plus every two weeks for best results. Harvest the outer leaves only, pulling rather than cutting them.

Your garden is a potential treasure trove of creative gift ideas for the loved one who has everything. Grow cuttings from your favourite shrubs, decorate cards with pressed fl owers, fi ll tiny envelopes with seed from fl owering annuals, pot up bromeliad pups and gift-wrap cane baskets of home-grown fruits or vegetables.

Golden Penda ‘Fairfi ll Gold’ (Xanthostemon chrysanthus) is a spectacular fl owering shrub (3–4mH), originating from north Queensland. Plant in well-drained soil in full sun or part shade, mulch well and keep it well watered while establishing. Attracts nectar-feeding birds.

Trachelospermum ‘Tricolour’ will bring accents of colour to your garden all year round. It enjoys full sun or part shade and almost any well-drained soil. Mulch well.

Keeping your own chickens has many benefi ts, including a continual supply of nutrient-rich food (eggs), fertiliser (chook poo), insecticide-free pest control (their favourite food is grasshoppers) and aeration of the soil with their scratching. Supplement their diets with formulated chicken feed. (They can’t survive on garden pickings alone.)

Fallen liquidambar leaves make a great mulch when placed on garden beds.

Sunsatia ‘Cassis’ will fl ower from autumn through to spring. It likes full sun, but can benefi t from protection from midday sun. Give it well-drained soil and regular, light applications of Searles Fish & Kelp Plus. Great in pots. Don’t let it dry out.

Sunsatia ‘Cassis’ will fl ower from autumn

Ixora with iron chlorosis

Now is the time to plant sprin

Dutch Iris ‘Sapphire Beauty’

Keeping your own chickens has

Scarlet-sided pobblebonk (Limnodynastes terraereginae)

This is the lovely scarlet-sided pobblebonk. This Australian native burrowing frog is active after heavy rain and can be discovered hiding under logs or uncovered while you dig in the garden. It can usually be identifi ed by the scarlet colouration on its groin area. Don’t mistake it for a cane toad!

The A-to-B on avocados...In our summer edition, we mentioned that avocado trees will fruit best if allowed to cross-pollinate between type A and type B trees. Avocados have fl owers that actually change from male to female overnight. Type A trees have fl owers that are female in the morning and type B trees have fl owers that are female in the evening. (The next day, type B trees will be male in the morning and type A trees will be male in the evening.) It is recommended that home gardeners keep at least one of each type of tree for best pollination. Alternatively, plant a tree known for its ability to fruit well without a pollinator. By request, on the right we have lists of popular type A and type B avocado varieties.

Type A treesHassRinconWurtz*Reed*PinkertonSecondoGwenTopa Topa

Type B treesSheppardFuerteSharwillEdranolBaconEttingerZutanoNabal

14 15

*Known to fruit well without a pollinator.

Camellia sasanqua ‘Paradise Belinda’

must-havesAutumn-fl owering

Camellia sasanquaThis delightful camellia fl owers with unsurpassed beauty and is easy-care if you get the soil right. This hardy small shrub can happily grow in full sun or part shade. Give it good drainage, building up garden beds rather than digging down into heavy clay soils and dig in plenty of compost before planting. Keep it well mulched and water it well when young and during hot, dry periods. Feed in spring with Searles Azalea, Camellia & Gardenia Plant Food.

Banksia‘Birthday Candles’Banksia ‘Birthday Candles’ (Banksia spinulosa) is a dwarf banksia (60cmW x 40cmH), perfect for low borders and patio pots. Its golden yellow ‘candles’ appear from late summer, through autumn and into winter, developing slowly over this time and eventually become spent banksia fl ower heads. Plant into pots of Searles Native Planting Mix or dig this mix into existing garden soil before planting. Give it full sun and water potted plants regularly. Tolerates moderate frosts and second line coastal conditions. Remove spent fl ower heads if preferred.

Correa Don’t feed native birds by leaving out trays of seed — do it the kind way by planting native fuchsias (or correas Correa refl exa). These native shrubs (up to 1.2m tall) bear masses of bird attracting fl owers from May to September and continue to fl ower intermittently throughout the year. Hardy in practically any soil, full sun or shade and affected by few pests and diseases, correas are essential for any Australian garden.

TibouchinaThe tibouchina (pronounced tibba-sheena) is a favourite shrub or small tree which grows throughout Queensland and New South Wales and will brighten your garden with its remarkable purple flowers throughout the autumn months. The bush is also fast growing and quick to establish. Plant one now and you will have a full bush with a flamboyant purple display by this time next year!

KnifophiaCommonly known as ‘red hot pokers’, these hardy plants are spectacular in autumn when they burst into fl amboyant fl oral ‘pokers’ of red, yellow, orange or lime green. Great for preventing erosion on steep embankments, they look best at the back of garden beds behind lower growing plants. Tolerant of light frosts and coastal conditions, give them full sun and well-drained soil. Water when young and while fl owering.

Mandevilla Mandevilla’s lush, tropical-style foliage and bold fl owers borne from spring until autumn in cooler zones and year-round in the tropics and subtropics make it an all-time favourite in Aussie home gardens. Easy to train over a trellis, this non-aggressive climber grows equally well in pots or garden beds. Give it full sun and protection from frosts.

Federation DaisyThis hardy, classic style daisy flowers for more than six months of the year with a compact, naturally free-branching habit. Hardy in the garden, magnificent in pots, plant it in full sun and water well until established.

Banksia ‘Birthday Candles’

Federation Daisy ‘Surf City’

MandevillaTibouchina ‘Jazzie’ is a compact shrub.

Correa

Knifophia

16 17

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Potatoes are very rewarding to grow, whether in the ground or in pots. With a few simple pointers and a bit of know-how, you will be harvesting your own crop of spuds in no time.

The potato is native to South America where it is believed to have been in cultivation for thousands of years. After the Spanish arrived in 1532, the potato was soon brought back to Europe. At fi rst there was apprehension about consuming the potato due to the fact that it is in the nightshade family, Solanaceae. But within 30 years the potato had risen immensely in popularity throughout Europe and as they say, the rest is history.

Growing potatoesAlways start off by purchasing certifi ed seed potatoes. These are certifi ed disease free tubers and are generally available from autumn through to spring, depending on the area and climate zone you live in. Small potatoes can be planted whole but larger tubers should be cut up so they have 2 eyes per section. Allow cut surfaces to dry out before planting. Ask the supplier if the seed potato needs to be hardened off before planting and if so, lay them out in a box in a shaded, dry position for a fortnight. Potatoes can be grown mainly throughout autumn and winter in the subtropics and tropics and just about all year round in the cooler parts of the country.

Selecting the sitePotatoes are frost sensitive so if you live in a region with frosty winters, plant your potatoes in early autumn so they have time to mature before the fi rst freeze. Otherwise, wait until the threat of frosts has passed before planting. The swelling tubers of potatoes will lift and break up the soil as they grow and sweet potatoes are sometimes used as a pioneer crop to break up new ground. (Other potatoes can also be used in this

Spud, tater or potato... whatever you call this tuber, it would have to be one of the world’s most popular vegetables. Full of complex carbohydrates and starches the potato, botanically known as Solanum tuberosum is a powerhouse of vitamins like B1, B3, B6 and minerals such as potassium and magnesium.

Potatoes are very rewarding tgrow, whether in the ground opots. With a few simple pointeand a bit of know-how, you wbe harvesting your own crop spuds in no time.

, ,and magnesium.

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way, but expect a reduced crop when growing them in compacted soil.) All potatoes need an open position where their growth will not be restricted. Full sun and good drainage is essential. Potatoes prefer an acidic, humus rich, free draining soil with a pH of 5.5–6. This can be achieved by adding compost, well-rotted manure or an organic fertiliser like Searles 5IN1 Plus to the soil. Avoid adding fresh manure to the soil as this can burn potato tubers.

Planting potatoesWhen planting potatoes in a garden bed situation, wait until your tubers have started to produce eyes before planting. Roughly dig the soil and cover it with a thick layer of Searles Real Compost and Searles Cow Manure. Water well and apply a mulch of sugar cane or straw. Two weeks later, set aside the mulch and place the potatoes on the soil with eyes facing upward, 40cm apart and in rows about 60cm apart. Cover the rows again

with the mulch and then with soil excavated from between the rows. Seed tubers should fi nally be about 15cm under the soil. As the plants develop, build up the layers of soil and mulch around the stems to encourage more roots to shoot away from the stems. This will promote more tubers. A thick layer of mulch will also keep the tubers out of the sunlight, which can turn them green. Irrigate the trenches between the rows up to 3 times a week, and keep the mulch moist until the foliage fi nally dies down.

Watering & FertilisingWater your potatoes regularly and apply Searles Liquid Fish & Kelp Plus every fortnight, especially in the fi rst 6 to 10 weeks as this is when the tubers are forming.

HarvestPotatoes will be ready for harvest at around 12–20 weeks or when the foliage starts to die down, but you can sneak some out beforehand. (This is a popular practice and sometimes referred to as ‘bandicooting’.)

Pests and diseasesSome of the diseases that affect potatoes — such as potato scab — only become apparent at harvest time when you fi nd you have quite a reduced crop. Make sure you practice crop rotation by planting in a different bed each season and only plant certifi ed disease-free tubers as most of these diseases cannot be treated. If 12 spotted lady beetle makes an appearance, use a pyrethrum-based spray on the foliage.

Eat your potato skins! They are high in Vitamin C. At least half the daily adult requirement is held within one medium sized potato! This also promotes iron absorption.

Although the potato tuber is edible, all other parts of the plant are poisonous. If potato tubers are exposed to light they will turn green, producing a toxic alkaloid called solanine. Do not eat potatoes where this has occurred.

Claire’s Top 5 Potatoes

Sapphire – Purple skin with mauve fl esh.

Pontiac – Round. Red skin with white fl esh.

Spunta – Elongated. Yellow skin with yellow fl esh.

Pink Fir Apple – Pale, pink skin and creamy fl esh.

Cranberry Red – Round. Red skin with delightful pink fl esh.

Potato varieties pictured are: Kipler (the small, elongated tubers) Red Rascal (with pink skin), Sebago (the large, round white potato) and a

purple sweet potato (in top right hand corner).

Seed potatoes ready to plant with eyes shooting.

Young potato plant surrounded by sugar cane mulch

Potatoes can be grown in large pots or tubs. Searles Azalea, Camellia & Gardenia Planting Mix is ideal for this as it provides the perfect level of acidity as well as good drainage and high levels of organic material. Only fi ll the pots two-thirds of the way at planting time and keep topping up the potting mix to encourage more root development.

potatoes

VarietiesYes, there are more than just pink and white potatoes! There has been a resurgence in recent times of some of the more interesting and gourmet varieties of potatoes.

Some potato varieties are: Spunta, Kipfl er, Sapphie, Purple Congo, Pink eye, King Edward, Nicola, Desiree, Pontiac, Toolangi Delight, Sebago, Dutch cream, Pink Fir Apple, Kennebec, Bintje and Coliban. Some of these varieties may be easier to fi nd than others, so enquire at your local seed potato supplier to fi nd out what is available. Some varieties may need to be ordered.

What you’ll need:

with the mulch and then with Varieties

There are now a wide range of potato varieties available. Pictured are Sapphire (with purple-fl esh), Desiree (with red skin) and Dutch cream (with cream-coloured skin).

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www.aboutthegarden.com.auAutumn 11

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Callistemon ‘Mary McKillop’ Home delivery!Subscribe and have the About the Garden

Magazine delivered to your door!

Callistemons (or bottlebrush) are some of the most beautiful and versatile of native plants in Australian home gardens. This group of fl oriferous trees and shrubs are unrivalled in their ability to bring colour and attract native birds to the garden. Callistemons tolerate a range of soils from moist clay to sand and can be an excellent option where the soil is too clayey for other natives like grevilleas, banksias or waratahs. Callistemons will fl ower best in full sun, but can also perform well in part shade.

They enjoy any climate from cool temperate to tropical as well as second line coastal conditions and medium level frosts. Use only a low phosphorus fertiliser that is specifi cally designed for Australian natives such as Searles Kickalong Native Plant Food.

Keep callistemons well pruned after spring fl owering and most will fl ower well the following autumn. Each time callistemons are pruned or the spent fl owers are trimmed off, it encourages even better fl owering

next season, whether in spring or autumn. So the moral is, prune! Most callistemons will fl ower from spring to summer but with regular pruning can fl ower at any other time throughout the year.

Callistemon ‘Mary McKillop’Named in honour of Australia’s fi rst saint, Mary McKillop will grow up to 2.5m tall and 2m wide. This callistemon has deep green leaves, brilliant, pink-red new growth and cardinal red fl owers from spring to summer.

Callistemon ‘Sugar Candy’This delightful large shrub (up to 3m high x 2m wide) bears beautiful, candy pink upright

brushes in late winter or spring and again from midsummer to early autumn. Silver-grey foliage offsets the soft pink new growth.

Callistemon ‘Genoa Glory’This striking small shrub (up to 2m high x 2m wide) bears glossy, purple-maroon fl owers from spring to autumn and has attractive, grey-green foliage. Its erect habit makes it great for screening.

Callistemon ‘Four Seasons’This dense, softly pendulous shrub (up to 2.5m high x 1.5m wide) has soft, lettuce green new growth and plentiful scarlet brushes in all seasons.

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Dimethoate 300: Is a systemic insecticide which provides effective control of a range of insect pests (including fruit fly, aphids, leaf miner and thrips) on fruit trees and other plants in and around the garden.

Weedkiller: provides effective control of most broadleaf weeds and grasses. 1 litre of concentrate’ Makes up to 100 Litres of ready-to-use weedkiller.

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20 21

bottlebrushCallistemon ‘Sugar Candy’

Callistemon ‘Genoa Glory’

next season whether in spring brush

Callistemon ‘Four Seasons’

for obanwill flalso

For more information and latest varieties, log on to

www.facebook.com/austrafl ora

Callistemons (or botare some of the moand versatile of natiAustralian home ga

Brilliant

sweet peasNow is the time of year to plant sweet peas and although they are traditionally planted on St. Patrick’s Day, it is recommended that when planting them into garden beds, the soil is prepared at least a week earlier. The correct preparation now will ensure a spectacular display right through into spring.

Soil preparationSweet peas love full sun and a rich soil. Find a sunny site and dig in plenty of organic fertiliser. For best results, use Searles 5IN1 Plus Organic Plant Food. Sweet peas also love a slightly alkaline soil, so add some lime or dolomite to the soil before planting. As a guide, apply approximately 150g lime or dolomite to each square metre of soil. Sweet peas like a soil pH of about 6–7, so if you have a pH test kit, test the soil to see if it needs lime or dolomite. Remember that once the soil is limed, the lime will take effect slowly, so you will not be able to accurately measure the fi nal result until a couple of weeks after application.

Trellis supportThe next step is to make sure you have a good, strong trellis in place to support the sweet pea’s vigorous growth. Do this before planting the sweet pea seeds. This way you won’t disturb the seeds once they are planted.

PlantingTraditionally, sweet peas are planted on St. Patrick’s Day (March 17), but in warm climates they can be planted

right through until the end of April. Plant the seeds about 3cm deep and 7cm apart. This will give a good mass display. Cover them with Searles® Seed Raising Mix and lightly water it in. Once the seedlings have four sets of leaves, nip off the top of the plant to encourage more side shoots.

FertilisingWhen fertilising sweet peas, it is important to remember that they make their own nitrogen and don’t like being fertilised with extra nitrogen. An ideal liquid fertiliser is Searles Liquid Potash, which contains both phosphorus and potassium. For excellent fl owering, feed your sweet peas every 2 weeks with Searles Liquid Potash from the time seedlings emerge right up until fl owering.

The fi rst fl owers buds to appear are usually single blooms and these should be removed to encourage the production of fl owering stems with three and four blooms on them. Sweet peas make superb cut fl owers and to prolong the life of your plants, pick the blooms every day and give large bunches to your friends and neighbours!

If you follow these easy steps, you will have a dazzling display of sweet peas covered in glorious blooms.

Planting

22 23

What you’ll need...

Ask for these great Searles products at your nearest gardening outlet. Ph: 07 5422 3000

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