Facial Makeup

Chapter 24

Learning Objectives

• Describe the various types of cosmetics and their uses for facial makeup.

• Explain how to use color theory when choosing cosmetics for makeup application.

• Identify different facial types and summarize basic makeup techniques to alter them.

• Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes.

• List tips for creating special-occasion makeup for eyes, cheeks, and lips.

• The field of makeup artistry is a very rewarding segment of cosmetology.

• The makeup application techniques you employ will vary as greatly as the skin types and personalities of your clients.

• The goal of effective makeup application is to enhance the client's individuality, rather than offering a ‘make-over’ based on some ideal standard.

Introduction

Describe Facial Makeup and Their Uses

• Foundation – tinted cosmetic also known as base makeup that is used to cover or even out skin coloring; conceal minor imperfections of skin; and protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris.

• Available in liquid, stick, and cream forms.

• Primer – used to help disguise less than perfect skin

Foundation Chemistry

• Liquid – water-based foundations with emollients

• Oil-free – intended for oilier skin types

• Cream – oil-based and thicker than liquid

Concealers

• Hides dark eye circles • Covers blemishes and discolorations• Available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands

Face Powders

• Adds matte finish, absorbs oil, and sets foundation

• Comes loose or pressed

• Mixture of talc or cornstarch and pigment

Eye Shadow

• Accentuates eye shape• Compliments eye color

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Eyeliner

• Used to define the eyes• Makes the lash line appear

fuller

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Eyebrow Color

• Used to add color and contour brows

• Available in pencil and powder form

• Should not harshly contrast with haircolor

Cheek Color

• Called blush or rouge

• Comes in powder, gel, or cream

• Application should look soft and natural

Lip Color

• Lipstick or gloss– Formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes

– Used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips

• Lip liner– Used to outline lips; keeps lip color

from feathering

Mascara

• Used to darken and thicken lashes

• Polymer product: Includes water, wax, thickeners, film formers, and preservatives

• Some contain lengthening fibers

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Other Cosmetics

• Eye makeup removers

• Greasepaint

• Cake (pancake) makeup

Makeup Brushes and Other Tools

• Hair – the term for the bristles• Ferrule – the metal part that holds the brush

intact and supports the strength of the bristles.• Handle – comes in a wide range of lengths and

can be made of wood, acrylic, plastic, or metal.• Gently cleanse brushes with an antibacterial

detergent followed by a commercial cleaning solution.

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• Powder brush• Blush brush• Concealer brush• Lip brush• Eye shadow brush• Eyeliner brush• Angle brush• Lash comb

• Brow brush• Tweezers• Eyelash curler• Pencil sharpener

Makeup Brushes and Other Tools (continued)

Single-Use Implements

• Sponges

• Powder puffs

• Mascara wands

• Spatulas

• Disposable lip brushes

• Sponge-tipped shadow applicators

• Cotton swabs

• Cotton pads or puffs

How to Use Color Theory for Makeup Application

Warm and Cool Colors• Warm and cool colors form

the basis of all makeup application.

• Three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color.

Determining Skin Color

Selecting Makeup Colors

• Fair skin color

• Medium skin color

• Deep skin color

Complementary Colors for Eyes

• Neutrals are safest• Blue eyes

– Orange, gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe, camel

• Green eyes– Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet,

coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, purples

• Brown eyes– Can wear any color: Greens, blues, grays, silvers

• Cheek and lip color– Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup

• Hair and eye color– Coordination of hair and eye color with eye makeup

Adding Cheek and Lip Color

Hair Color and Eye Color

Mature Skin

• Older clients that may have uneven, textured skin due to wrinkles or sun damage.

• Shimmer, glitter, or frosted colors can accent dry patches or wrinkles.

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Alter Face Shapes with Makeup

• Highlight• Contour

Analyzing Face Shape: Oval

Analyzing Face Shape: Round

Analyzing Face Shape: Square

Analyzing Face Shape: Triangular

Analyzing Face Shape: Heart-Shaped

Analyzing Face Shape: Diamond

Analyzing Face Shape: Oblong

Altering the Forehead Area

• Low forehead

• Protruding forehead

Altering the Nose and Chin Areas

• Large or protruding nose

• Short and flat nose

• Broad nose

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• Protruding chin and receding nose

• Receding chin

• Sagging double chin

Altering the Nose and Chin Areas (continued)

Altering the Jawline

• Broad jawline

• Narrow jawline

Altering Eye Shape: Round Eyes

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Altering Eye Shape: Close-Set Eyes

• This can be minimized by blending the deeper color shadow over the prominent part of the upper lid.

• Blend the color from the outer corners inward toward the center, carrying it just past the creases.

Altering Eye Shape: Protruding or Bulging Eyes

Altering Eye Shape: Hooded Eyes

Corrective Makeup for the Eyes

Small eyes Wide-set eyes

Deep-set eyes

Altering Eyebrows

Ideal shape

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• Low forehead• Wide-set eyes• Close-set eyes• Round face• Long face• Square face

Altering Eyebrows (continued)

Eyelash Enhancers

• Lash enhancers and lengtheners contain fibers to make lashes look longer and fuller.

• Latisse®, a product containing bimatoprost, shows a difference in two to four months of regular use.

The Lips

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The Lips (continued)

Skin Tones and Camoflaging Techniques

• Skin tones

– Ruddy skin (red)

– Sallow skin (yellow)

• Camouflaging techniques

Steps for Basic Makeup Application

• Step-by-step procedure to enhance your client's features.

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Client Consultation

• Consultation area

• Lighting

• Information gathering

Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)

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Apply Foundation

• Match to skin tone.

• Blend with disposable makeup sponge.

• Avoid line of demarcation.

Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)

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• Apply concealer

• Apply powder

• Apply eyebrow pencil

• Apply eyebrow powder

• Apply eye shadow

• Apply eyeliners

• Apply blush

• Apply lip color

• Apply mascara

Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)

Apply Artificial Eyelashes

• Strip lashes• Remove strip eyelashes• Individual lashes

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Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes

Option 1: Striking contour eyes

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Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes (continued)

Option 2: Dramatic smoky eyes

Special-Occasion Makeup for Cheeks

• Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition.

• Apply with a blush brush and blend carefully. • Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of

the cheeks and blend.• Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the

cheekbones for highlights. You may use cream or powder colors.

Special-Occasion Makeup for Lips

• Line lips, fill with lip pencil, and blot.

• Add lip color.

• Apply gloss to center of lips.

Summary and Review

• How to identify the basic face shapes and that the oval shape has artistically ideal proportions and features.

• Corrective makeup, shadowing, and highlighting, we can create the illusion of oval for almost any face shape.

• We can contour the face through shadowing and highlighting, and minimize facial features that are unflattering.

• How to use corrective makeup procedures.• Being able to effectively apply corrective makeup

will make you as a professional very valuable to your clients.

1. List eight types of facial cosmetics and how they are used.

2. List the two color temperatures and the range of shades they each encompass.

3. What is the purpose of special occasion makeup?

Chapter Review Questions

4. What is the purpose of face shape altering makeup?

5. Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes.

6. List the key cosmetics used in the basic makeup procedure in the order in which they are applied.

Chapter Review Questions (continued)