• SOAP IS COSMETIC OR WHAT ?

• To look beatiful ,to improve overall look & personality • To have lustre or complexion on face• Protection from sun• Mentain body health & hygiene

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Cosmetology

DR PRAMOD FINAL YEAR PG SCHOLAR

SUBJECT SEMINAR

FACIAL COSMETICS

CONTENTS • INTRODUCTION • OBJECTIVES • COSMETICS • FACIAL COSMETCS • TYPES • EXAMPLES • CROSS REFERENCES • OWN RESEARCH VIEW • SUMMARY • CONCLUSION • REFERENCES

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INTRODUCTION

• Solid , liquid , Semisolid preparations • According to D&C Act 1945 –cosmetics• Classification-cosmetics

• Use – Skin ,nail, teeth & mouth, eye ,hair

• Function– Curative ,protective,corrective,decorative

• Physical nature – Aerosols,cakes,emulsions,oils,pastes,powders

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Any item intended to be rubbed ,poured, sprinkled, or sprayed ,introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part there of for cleaning ,protecting ,beatifying ,promoting attractiveness ,or altering appereance .

• Functions of cosmetics • Adverse reactions • Dye used must be approved by FD&C• Before marketing any cosmetics proper

testing done .– Temperature ( all weather conditions )– Humidity – Shelf life

OBJECTIVES

• To know in brief about facial cosmetics

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FACIAL COSMETICS

• Cleaning ,Refreshing, Nourishing• Prevent premature aging • Solid ,liquid & semi solid • Commonly used facial cosmetics

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Face powders Compact face powder Rouges Cold creams Cleaning creams Vanishing creams Foundation creams Moisturing creams

Preparation for eye make up Eye shadow Eye brow pencil Mascara

Lipsticks Bleaches Shaving media

lather shaving cream Brushless shaving cream Shaving soap Shaving sticks

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Face powders • Contains many ingredients • Prepared by considering odour & color likings of woman • Application - powder puff • General ingredients are

– Talcum powder ,kaolin precipitated chalk, Magnesium carbonate,Zinc oxide ,titanium dioxide ,starch colour ,perfumes .

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• Qualities of good face powder – Look natural – Very fine – Non toxic & non irritant– Stable both physically as well as chemically– Ingredients evenly distributed – Should have good absorbing property – Should stick to face & should not capture dust

• Ex –Deodorant powder

Ingredients:

• Boric acid 5gm• salicylic acid 3gm• Talcum powder 42gm• starch 50gm

Procedure :

All solid ingredients are powdered and passed through sieve number 120 .

Mixed thoroughly and packed in powder box

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• Dry powder compressed to form a cake using suitable binding agents

• Application –powder puff

• Ex –Compact face powder

Ingredients:

• Calcium carbonate 15gm• Kaolin 15gm• Zinc oxide 10 gm• Titanium dioxide 5gm• Talcum powder 50gm• starch 5gm• Binder solution 5ml

Compact face powder

• Ingredients for binder solution – Gum tragacanth 2gm– Glucose 5gm– Water 93ml

Procedure :All solid ingredients are

powdered sieved through 120 mesh.

Mixed thoroughly ,binder solution and perfume

When attains desired mass of wet consistency Compress dried.

Rouges

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Solid ,liquid,cream form Applied on cheeks to enhance beauty which imparts rosy freshness to skin .• Ex –

Dry rouge (compact ) Ingredients:

• Talcum powder 80gm• Zinc oxide 5 gm• Zinc stearate 5gm• Rice starch 10gm• Perfume Qs• Colour Qs

Procedure :All solid ingredients are

powdered sieved through 120 mesh.

Add perfume & colour QSWhen attains desired mass of

wet consistency Compress dried.

Cold creams

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•Emulsion (oil & water)-O/W •Applied on skin produces cooling effect due to slow evaporation of water in it.•In Olden days it is prepared by using animal fat & vegetable oil.

• Ex –Cold cream

Ingredients:

• Bees wax 5gm• White soft paraffin 10gm• Hard paraffin 7gm• Liquid paraffin 45 gm• Borax o.2gm• Water 32.8ml• Perfume and preservative QS

Procedure :• Melt 1,2,3 on water bath• Add 4th and heat at 70*c• Dissolve 5th in water at 75*c• Stir continuously• Cool upto 40*c• Add preservative &

perfume• Transfer to container while

hot .

Cleaning creams

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Cleanses grime, sebum, dead cells ,applied facial make upImproves healthy & good appearance of skin conditionCold creams containing detergent for cleaning action, some ingredients to soften, lubricate & protect the skin .

• Types 3 • Liquefying cleaning creams • Emulsified creams of o/w type• Emulsified creams of w/o type

Formula :Isopropyl myristate 25gmLiquid paraffin 25gmWhite soft paraffin 30gm Paraffin wax 20gmProcedure :• Melt and mix all ingredients at 65*c• Cool with continuous stirring until solidifying point

Simple mixyures of mineral oil or synthetic fatty materials with hydrocarbon waxes,paraffin wax,etc

• Ex :– formula

• Bees wax-borax cream – Ingredients

» Bees wax 12gm» Liquid paraffin 53gm» Bentonite 0.7gm» Borax

0.7gm» Water

33.2ml» Isopropyl alcohal 0.4ml

Procedure :Triturate 2,3,6.Heat 1 at 75*c and add above 2,3,6Dissolve borax in water at 70*c and slowly add to

above with continuous stirring upto when the temp come down to 40-45*c.Pour into final container and packed.

• Ex :– Formula

• Ingredients – Liquid paraffin 50gm– Paraffin wax 5gm– Bentone 0.7gm– Water 43.9ml– Isopropyl alcohal 0.4ml

Procedure :Triturate 3,6,with some part of 1 to disperse

3The gel formed is heated at 75*c with

remaining 1 & 2.Heat the water at 70*c and add above oil

phase into it .Stir continuously desired consistency.Transfer to final container .

Vanishing creams

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o/w type of emulsion-easily washed of with water When applied leaves almost invisible layerMain ingredient is stearic acid which gives pearly white shine.

Foundation cream

• o/w type of emulsion • Designated as beauty milk• They prevent damage caused by environmental factors like sun or wind .• Main ingredients are fatty materials ,stearic acid, alkalies, glycerins ,surfactants ,emulsifying agents ,preservatives & perfumes.• Qualities of ideal foundation cream

• Should provide a non greasy film on face• Should remain stable• Should not damage • Should improve adhesion of face powder for longer time

• Ex: – Formula :

• Ingredients :– Stearic acid 18gm – Potassium hydroxide 0.52gm – Sodium hydroxide

0.18gm – Cetyl alcohal 0.50ml – Glycerin

18gm – Water

62.2ml – Preservative & perfume QS

• Procedure :Heat 1 & 4 at 75*c till attains

homogenous mass Dissolve 2 , 3 in water then add

glycerin to it & heat to 75*c -add to above

Continuously stir till temprature falls to 40*c then add perfume to it

Then pass through a mill or homogeniser to produce a smooth cream .

Moisturising cream

• Designed to be left on skin for several hours • Applied at night • Has slow transdermal rate water loss thus shows moisturising

effect including lubrication action .

• Application :maintain moisture content & dryness of skin protects skin against grow of bacteria keeps skin fresh ,natural preserves softness of skin before make up these creams are used

These creams contains mineral oil,vegetable oil ,lipophilic substances ,humectant (glycerin,sorbitol,propylene glycol

Eye shadow

• Produces moist looking background of colour to eye • Applied to eye lids• Available in blue,green,grey,gold & silver colours• Forms –creams,stick,pressed powder,liquide.

– Creams-selected colour mixed with wax bases or with petroleum– Stick-prepared with high proprotion of waxes .ex-carnuba wax– Pressed powder-compact coloured rouges– Liquid-liquid suspension of pigments.

Eyebrow pencils

• Manufactured by pencil industry• They are Hard crayons chemically contains black iron oxide

with high proportion of waxes to make moulds.• Available in two colours • Darkens the eyebrow .

Mascara

• Black pigmented preparation used for darkening • Applied with brush to eye lashes ,eyebrows • Forms –cake ,cream ,liquid

– Cake mascara-mixing colour with wax by melting .– Cream mascara-mixing pigment into vanishing cream – Liquid mascara –colour suspended in alcoholic solution of a resin.

• Qualities of ideal mascara – Should not cause irritation – Should not toxic – Should be applied easily ,evenly ,smoothly– Should not cause eyelashes to stick each other

Lipsticks

Usually manufactured by moulding coloured pigments in a fatty base like waxMain ingredients are bases (mineral oil ,vegetable oil,petroleum etc)Colouring materials(water soluable eosin) ,pigments like titanium dioxide ,perfumes ,anti oxidants to prevent rancidity like propyl gallate etc.Qualities of ideal lipsticks

Should not cause irritation Should not toxic Should be stable both chemically & physicallyShould not dry on storage Should retain colour for long time Should be easily applied Should not break during use

Ex: formula : ingredients

bees wax 40gmcetyl alcohal 10gmseasame oil 20gm castor oil 28gmtetrabromofluorescein 2gmperfume & colour QS

Procedure : Dissolve 5 in 4. Melt 1,2,3 together Mix above two solutins & add 6 . Mix thoroughly and transfer to moulds .

Bleaches

• Sunscreen Agents which lighten the skin colour • Reducing pigmentation• Decolourise the melanin • Prevent new melanin from being formed

• Protects from uv radiation • types

– Opaque covering agents ex-zinc oxide – Oxidising agents ex-hydrogen peroxide – Mercury compounds wx-mercurous oxide– Hydroxy quinoline – Catechol and its derivatives – Others -2 mercaptoethylmaine

Natural bleaching materials Cucumber juice Lemon juiceButter milk

Shaving media

• To remove unsightly hair • Types –

– Pre-shave products– Shaving products ex:lather shaving cream ,shaving soap– After-shave products ex: after shave lotion to refresh skin

• Lather shaving cream Semisolid preparation used by men to remove hair from faceCream is applied on wet face lather is produced with brushLather soften the beared & holds hair in erect state for close shaveEx:

formula:ingredients :

stearic acid 30gmcoconut oil 10gm

potassium hydroxide 7gm sodium hydroxide 2gm

glycerin 10gmwater 31mlpeservative and perfume QS

Procedure •Melt half of stearic acid with coconut oil over water bath •Dissolve the alkalies in QS of water and add to it with strring untill saphonification complete •Add remaining stearic acid and glyserin to form a creamy paste like consistency • heat remaining water to 45*c and add above cream toit with continuous strring •Then add desired quantity of preservative and perfume .

Brushless shaving cream

• Modified vanishing cream used without brush • 1st face washed with soap & water then cream is applied to face• Shaving is done with a razor • Ex :

– Formula:

Ingredients Stearic acid 20gmMineral oil 2gmCetyl alcohal 0.5gmPotassium hydroxide 1gmGlycerin 7gmWater 69.5Preservative and perfume QS

Shaving soaps

• Cake form • Applied with wet shaving brush to produce lather• Prepared by melting method • Ex: coconut oil soap

Shaving sticks

• Prepared in very Dry form • Rubbed on moistened skin • Brush used to produce lather • Generally consists of stearic acid,coconut oil,potassium

hydroxide,glycerin

CROSS REFERENCES

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Varnya dashemani-cha.su 4

Sha.utta Mukhakantikara lepa

• Chandanadi lepa –su.chi 24/65(Anagatabadha pratishedhadyaya)

• Anulepa –varnakara su.chi 24• Mukhalepana –vyaanga peedaka nashaka su.chi 24• Types of lepa – pradeha , pralepa , aalepa su.su 18(Vranalepanabandha vidhi adhyaya)

OWN RESEARCH VIEW

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Summary

• Cosmetics • Facial cosmetics• Types • Examples • Cross references

CONCLUSION

• Facial cosmetics are the part of cosmetics which are used to facial skin to beautify ,to refresh ,to protect ,to prevent etc by uses of various types at particular condition

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REFERENCES

• Pharmaceutics 2 by R M MEHTA• A handbook of cosmetics by B M MITHAL• Charaka samhita• Sushrutha samhita • Sharangadhara samhita • Dravaya guna vignana

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Thank You all04/08/23 32FACIAL COSMETICS