Fabric Construction

Fashion Design, Textiles & Merchandising

Mrs. Moscinski

Fabric Construction

Fibers are created into yarns

Yarns are then woven or knit into

fabrics

Fabrics are then Used to create garments, etc.

Blended Yarns, Threads & Fabrics

Blends were created to utilize the positive characteristics of each fiber

Different fibers that have been combined into one fabric, usually one natural and one synthetic EXAMPLE: polyester/cotton blend- the original cotton

characteristics are improved and the fabric becomes more wrinkle resistant, stronger, and mildew resistant

Wovens

A woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns

Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right angles to make a fabric

Strong and easy to sew on Suggested for beginners to use

Grain (Line)

Selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly woven edges of the fabric

Lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger threads (warp threads)

Crosswise - at right angle to the lengthwise threads; perpendicular to the selvage (weft threads)

Bias - diagonal angle; runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge; provides stretch

Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in the bias direction, compared to the on-grain direction.

This property facilitates garments and garment details that require extra elasticity or drapability or flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses, neckties, piping trims and decorations, bound seams, etc.

Plain Weave

Characteristics of Plain Weave It is snag resistant. It wrinkles. It has lower tear strength.

Examples Chiffon Taffeta Organza

Twill Weave

Characteristics of Twill Weave It is durable and heavier. It is wrinkle resistant. It is resistant to showing soil

and soiling. It is more pliable drape and

hand than plain weave

Examples of Twill Weave Gabardine Herringbone Denim

Satin Weave

Characteristics of Satin Weave It is flat and lustrous with a

smooth surface. The surface slides easily

for linings. Snags easily

Examples of Satin Weave Satin

Knit Fabrics

Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into a series of interlocking loops to make a fabric

Knits provide stretch Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will not

fray Single knit fabric curls to the right side when

stretched Interlock knit is thicker

Knit Fabrics Firm, stable knits. These stretch very little and are handled similarly to woven

fabrics. These include double knits and Raschel knits, a novelty knit recognized by lacy, stable construction.

Lightweight single knits. They have lengthwise ribs on the right side, horizontal rows on the reverse side and moderate stretch. Examples are jerseys and tricot knits.

Interlock knits. These are lightweight, drapable and have a fair amount of crosswise stretch. They do not curl at the edges, but can run on the crosswise edge. Interlock knits are heavier, thicker, and easier to sew than jersey knits.

Textured knits. These may be single or double knits. Examples include knitted terry and velour, sweater knits, and sweatshirt fleece. These knits have moderate to good stretch except sweatshirt fleece which has little or no stretch.

Two-way stretch knits. They stretch in both length and width and have a high percentage of resilient spandex fibers. These knits are usually selected for active sportswear.

Ribbing. This is a stretchy knit used for stretch trims at wrists, ankles, neck and waist. It is available in tubular ribbing and in rib trim.

Non-Woven/ Felting

Made when fibers are pressed together using heat and moisture

Examples include: felt and nonwoven interfacing

Nap

Short fibers that create texture on fabric

Use a nap layout

Treat the same way as a one-way directional fabric

Ex: Velvet