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ARIZONATHE NOT SO OLD WEST

THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF    MARY  JANE  COLTER

43  ARIZONA    ADVENTURES

NAVIGATING  ROUTE  66page "#$ page "%& page '$

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THE NOT SO OLD WEST

Catherine O’Neal takes readers on a road tripping adventure through the winding roads of Southern Arizona.

THE ARCHITECTURE OF MARY JANE COLTER

Understand the Grand Can-yon through the eyes of this fascinating turn of the century architect.

43 ARIZONA ADVENTURES

Take advantage of all the great experiences this state has to of-fer. Pick and choose activities to build a itinerary that suits you.

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MAY  2012

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CONTENTS

NAVIGATING ROUTE 66How to avoid tourist heavy loca-tions and enjoy one of the most beautiful drives America has to o3er. Page ./

CITY EXPLORATIONArizona is home to several unique cities, each with their own personality. Find which best suits your trip. Page /0

GRAND AMBITIONWhen John Wesley Powell and his nine-man crew pushed o3 from Green River, Wyomind in &456, they ventured into un-charted territory full of danger. 7is tale follows them— the 8rst party to survive trip through the Grand Canyon— and recounts one man’s determination to put it on the map. Page 12

EN ROUTEGet out of your hotel room and spend the night enjoying the best attractions in Pheonix. Page 33

PLAN ITFiguring out the details for a roadtrip can be daunting. Our guide covers everything you’ll want to know, from permits to camping gear. Page 45

OUTDOOR ARIZONAWhich activities are best for you and your itinerary? Whether it be reaftin, hiking or touring ancient ruins, there is something for you. Page 062

ARIZONA EATSFrom Mesa to Yuma, we’ve got the dish on where to eat like a local. Page 00/

STYLEYou can’t leave Arizona without stopping by these fashion hotspots. Page .2

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCHSusan Reynolds shares the best spots in each of Arizona’s unique cities. Page 0/7

JOBS WITH BENEFITSEver wish you could work at one of the most beautiful places on earth? Find out what a day in the life is like for these Grand Canyon emplyees. Page 022

NAVAJO TRADITIONBefore you take the trip, take a chance to learn about the largest tribe in Arizona and a few of their traditions. Page 050

EXPERTCofounder of azcentral.com guides us through the local favor-ites for day trips. Page 057

WELLNESS7e best places to lodge if you’re looking for healthy food, gyms and exercise classes. Page 073

TOP TEN SPASYou’ll need a place to relax after all of the adventures you go on after completing the adventure list. Page 010

SMART TRAVELERWhere to 8nd the cheapest gas, the most economical lodging and budget-friendly excursions. Page 03.

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!+9:;< ='>+,' ? @,+A' to Bisbee, Arizona, I’d heard a lot about the old copper - mining town turned BCst century hideaway for artists, eccentrics, and freewheeling entrepreneurs. Like an unspoiled desert version of Key West, Bisbee was supposedly 8lled with vigorously restored CDth century buildings and antiques shops. Nestled in the Mule Mountains just seven miles from the Mexican wilderness, it was a sanctuary for the edgy and the adventurous. When I told my father I was headed to this Western bohemia, he assured me I was mistaken. A Florida cattleman who can lasso a calf faster than my cell phone Eickers on, my father has a picture of the desert that consists of outlaws and woolly bordellos. His Bisbee adventurers tote riEes, not art canvases. To prove it, he sent me leather - bound books on the frontier, with exuberant notations about the saloons, gold mines, and gunslingers I’d encounter. What made my trip to Arizona

especially appealing to him was that I’d pass through Tombstone, whose motto—7e Town Too Tough to Die—summed up his idea of the West precisely. 7e day before I left, he gave me one of his typical directives: “You’d better take your gun.” I reminded him of the time he tried to outdraw James Arness on Gunsmoke (my dad stood inches from the FG screen, waiting with a Colt .BB Peacemaker in his holster) and ended up shooting himself in the leg.

“For the record, I was faster than he was,” he muttered. I didn’t pack a pistol, but I did take my favorite Agnès B. capris. In Tucson, I picked up a rental car and headed east on Interstate CH, with the caramel-colored Rincon Mountains to the north. 7e hot sun made the road ahead seem to ripple as I began the DH - mile drive to Bisbee. Catching Route IH, I cruised through the near - ghost towns of Benson and St. David, where donkeys grazed among the soap - tree yuccas. After CJ solitary miles, I came upon the

THE NOT SO OLDWestby Catherine O’Neal

Hey,  cowboy:  Beyond  the  ghost  towns  and  desert  roads  of  Arizona,  Catherine  O'Neal  finds  an  unexpected  oasis  of  vintage  trailers,  fusion  cuisine,  and  bohemian  style.

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AboveThe  view  from  

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as I left Tombstone, pressing south on Route IH toward Bisbee. Less than a minute into the conver-sation, I lost my signal — and didn’t get it back until I returned to Tucson.

Unusual  BeginningsI passed through the Mule Mountain Tunnel and emerged to see the tiny town of Bisbee, population K,HHH, with its crooked, skinny streets, copper roofs, and adobe buildings. Around every corner, stone steps snaked up to hillside bungalows (there’s an annual Bisbee Stair Climb the third week of October, in which locals race up and down the town’s C,HJL steps). Nothing was straight or Eat. Even the build-ings — many packed with colorful galleries, cafés, and artists’ lofts tilted with the terrain. Founded in CIIH, Bisbee blossomed into a culture capital of BH,HHH after billions of pounds of copper were discovered in the early CDHH’s. Bisbee-ites combined their passion for revelry ( JM saloons and brothels lined an alley called Brewery Gulch) with a zeal for architecture, 8lling the town with Romanesque mansions and Queen Anne bungalows. After the mines 8nally dried up in the early CDMH’s, the town’s elite abandoned the beautiful old buildings. Word of the cheap architectural and cultural gold mine

real — and very unreal — town of Tombstone. A huge headstone with the words N?OF12P, N-Q0FN, QRS N1O/?FQ0?FP welcomed me to the place where Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp, and Earp’s brothers Virgil and Morgan gunned down Ike Clanton and the McLaury brothers at the O.K. Corral. Today’s corral is a bit less dramatic, not much more than a diorama with Stetson-hatted mannequins. Determined to come away with something authentic, I stopped at the Bird Cage 7eatre, highlighted in one of my father’s books with a poster of “human Ey” dance girls suspended by shoe clamps from the ceiling. 7e CIIC building has the town’s last remaining original bar, an exquisitely carved cherry wood piece with a French cut-glass mirror. 7e cowboy at the bar invited me to roam the theater, now a museum hid-den behind a black partition. I wondered if the Bird, once an ornate playhouse for gambling, dancing, and prostitution, would be just another touristy gift shop festooned with a few historic relics. But when I pulled back the curtain, what I found was a perfect-ly preserved past: red and green glass chandeliers, gambling tables with ivory poker chips, a jukebox that took only silver dollars. It was as if nothing had been touched for CBH years. Anxious to tell my father about the Bird, I called him on my cell phone

Nothing  was  straight  or  flat.  Even  the  buildings—many  packed  with  colorful  galleries,  cafés,  and  artists’  lofts  tilted  with  the  terrain.

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Top  RowTombstone,  AZ

Middle  RowOn  the  Road

Bottom  RightShady  Dell  Hotel  Room

Bottom  LeftTombstone,  AZ

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cal rides have been displayed in museums (including the Visionary Art Museum in Baltimore) and have appeared in an NT1 documentary.

Strange  TownTaking the “cool ride” concept a bit further are antiques dealers Ed Smith and Rita Personett; in CDDJ, they turned seven vintage travel trailers and a CDJM Chris Craft yacht into the Shady Dell lodge, L miles south of Bisbee. Against a backdrop of burly brown buttes, the trailers lined up neatly, silver bullets beneath a hot, still sun. A CDJI Yellow Cab was parked under a mulberry tree, and an iron bed decorated with plastic Eowers—the latest folk-art

creation by one of the managers—rested on a patch of grass. At the edge of it all was Dot’s Diner, which served biscuits and gravy to locals seated on sparkly pink stools. From Dot’s tiny takeout window, Bobby Vinton’s “Roses Are Red” drifted through the desert air. It was a scene straight out of a David Lynch movie. I had my pick of trailers — a tough choice, since each was glamorously nos-talgic, down to the Eamingo - crowned martini shakers and rose-colored per- colators. Ultimately, I fell for a CDUC Spartan Royal Mansion with a break-fast booth and grape-colored sofa. Settling down on it, I spotted a CDUM leatherette Setchell Carson FG with a GV2 and a selection of old movies. I chose my dad’s favorite, 7e Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, and watched the opening scene—John Wayne being carried away inside a cof-8n—as the sun Eashed o3 headstones in the cemetery outside my window. Perhaps my vision of the Wild West wasn’t so di3erent from my father’s: here I was, in my chic travel trailer built when he was a teenager, and here was his hero, John Wayne, now chas-ing bad guys across my living room television screen.

spread from Berkeley to Woodstock, and hippies began arriving in their GW vans, buying up property and infusing Bisbee with their own brand of art and attitude, and eclecticism. Today, Bisbee is Arizona’s center for the who’s who of the art scene. I got a glimpse of that o3beat style when I drove by a hula-themed Buick sedan studded with plastic pineapples and painted with palm trees. Later, I learned that

the car belonged to gouache artist Kathleen Pearson, who started Bisbee’s “art - car

movement” CB years ago. Pearson’s whimsi-

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7at night, I wished my father were with me when I drove into town for dinner at the High Des-ert Inn. He would have loved the building — the CDCI county jail that still has prisoners’ names etched on the back walls. What I loved was the campy elegance, the white linen tablecloths, the former cell doors turned into wine racks, and the large, Art Deco-in-Euenced acrylic paintings. But what we would have both loved was the rich and Eavorful food: hearty Black Angus 8let mignon and chicken paprikash.

Niche  MarketsBisbee’s bohemian scene came alive the next day on Main Street. Over a glass of pulpy peach lemon-ade at Café Cornucopia, Bisbee’s best lunch hangout, I watched residents stroll by in their easy, desert-sun style: ruXed skirts, turquoise chokers, rectangular copper glasses. Across from the café, I found a small Africanized-killer-bee honey shop called Made

S"# YDRIVE  WESTTake 2F DH; turn north on 2F IL; head south on 2F IB to Nogales. Go north on I-CD to 2F BID; drive west to 2F BIK; go south to Rancho de La Osa

S"# ZRETURN  TO  TUSCONMB miles from Rancho. Take Route BIK north to Arivaca Road, which wends east to I-CD and Arivaca Junction. Return north on I-CD to Tucson.

S"# [EXPLORE  BISBEEExplore Bisbee and the sur-rounding Mule Mountains. Drive through downtown to get advice from the locals about the best activities.

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in Bisbee. Reed Booth invited me to taste his sweets (the Killer Bee Radical Raspberry Honey Mustard had just taken a silver medal in Napa Valley’s na-tional mustard competition). In the mid - nineties, he became Bisbee’s o_cial “beehive guy” when mil- lions of killer bees migrated up from Mexico. He now answers emergency calls in his beemobile and makes silky honey butters, mustards, and mead (honey wine) in his cli3top laboratory. I asked Booth why he became a killer - bee guy.

“7ere aren’t many jobs in Bisbee,” he explained. “To live here, you’ve got to 8nd your own cool niche.” One of Booth’s best friends, known as Electric Dave, found his in a defunct shopping center on the edge of town. 7ere he single-handedly runs his own microbrewery; Dave’s Electric Beer lager and 1` Ale are so popular that he can’t keep up with orders, which come from as far as Phoenix. “7ere's a lot of orders to 8ll for such a small company.”

LeftSites  on  the  road  to  Bisbee’s  town  center

S"# aTUSCON  TO  BISBEEHead east on I-CH to Route IH; then veer southeast to Tomb-stone. Continue southeast pm Route IH through the Mule Pass Tunnel to Bisbee.

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Later that day, I got back on the road and drove west through the Huachuca Mountains to the bor-der town of Nogales. I’d made an appointment at Holler & Saunders, a private gallery housed in a palatial LH - room hacienda. It’s the only way to see Ed Holler and Sam Saunders’s extensive collection of art and antiquities; though the owners prefer to be discreet about prices and celebrity patrons, they did allow that the JH-million-year-old fossils in the lobby of the Phoenician, in Scottsdale, came from their collection.

0+@b^9bSHADY  DELL    Vintage Trailer Park Doubles from cLU. C Douglas Rd., Bisbee.

RANCHO  DE  LA  OSA  Doubles from cLBH, including meals. Mile Marker C.

BISBEE  INNDoubles from cCIH, II Main St., Bisbee.

d++@CAFE  ROKA    Contemporary Italian dishes are served in a CDHM building with em-bossed tin ceilings and maple Eoors. Dinner for two cUH. LU Main St., Bisbee.  DOT’S  DINER  Lunch for two cCU. C Douglas Rd., Bisbee.  

O;+)<PENTIMENTOHere you’ll 8nd estate-sale antiques, such as CDth-century Red Wing urns and Victorian-era bam-boo music cabinets. KD Main St., Bisbee.

HOLLER  &  SAUNDERS  By appointment only, Saunders St., Nogales.

O^b;:<  COWBOY  MUSEUM    Come for a kitschy collection of Wild West movie memorabilia and a John Wayne display. Sumner and Fulton Sts. Tombstone.  BIRD  CAGE  THEATER  Open daily I - K. Sixth and Allen Sts. Tombstone.

ROADTRIP  TO-DO  LIST

It was early evening by the time I reached Rancho de la Osa, a CK - room guest ranch in Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge, KH miles west of No-gales. In CDDK, art collectors Richard and Veronica Schultz bought the dilapidated CIth century haci-enda and adobe outbuildings and transformed them with vibrant tones of pomegranate and persimmon, adding international furniture: Mexican Mission benches, African mud - cloth cushions. Today, the Rancho is just as fashionable as when John Wayne and Margaret Mitchell vacationed there a half - cen-

tury ago. At the dinner bell, guests gath-ered in the dining room for arugula salad with sweet chipotle vinaigrette and warm garlic custard with salsa fresca. 7e owner and chef, Veronica, draws from local farm-ers to create Southwestern fusion menus that change daily. After dinner, many of us retreated to a stone-walled terrace, where we sipped a CDDM Edna Valley Chardonnay from Richard’s cellar. I listened to other guests make early-morning horseback- riding plans. My morning ride, however, was MH miles in the car back to Tucson. As I drove north on Route BIK, cows grazed inches from the road, reminding me of my father’s own herds. His West was still here, alive and well.

Today,  the  Rancho  is  just  as  fashionable  as  when  John  Wayne  and  Margaret  Mitchell  vacationed  there  a  half-century  ago.

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MARY JANE COLTERTHE ARCHITECTURE OF

written by John Richarson

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MARY JANE COLTER

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Colter began her career, architectural styles in the United States were heavily informed by European ideas. She was one of the 8rst architects in America to turn more toward indigenous inEuences. Colter 8lled sprawling railroad hotels with the pastel colors of the desert and an often idiosyncratic mix of locally made furniture, native craft work, and the religious imagery of the region’s Native Ameri-can and Hispanic traditions—vibrant interiors that complemented the subtlety and spaciousness of the external landscape. But she also designed lodges and shops in the Grand Canyon that were spare and simple, made of earth and stone. 7ey o3ered enough to make travelers comfortable, not enough to distract from the larger Canyon experience. Most of the grand hotels she worked on have been torn down, but there is growing interest in preserving what is left.

Myth  and  LegendColter has been described as a curmudgeon and is reputed to have worn a Stetson, been a heavy drinker, smoked three packs a day, and cursed freely. 7at image, however romantic, may be apocryphal; little is known about her personal life. I have seen photos of her—in matronly dresses and large hats—that reminded me of my wise and caring grand-

mother. Colter lived almost DH years, from her birth in Pennsylvania in CIKD until her death at her home in Santa Fe in CDUI, but because she spent her entire career as a Harvey employee, she never had the kind of exposure she would likely have enjoyed had she run her own 8rm. Several months after my trip through Winslow, I set o3 one sunny Friday afternoon and followed Highway KI as it meanders from the Taos mesa southwest through the

19' 'A'9^9b *"<: <),^9b, on a long drive from Santa Barbara through the rugged western reaches of the great Southwestern desert to my home in Taos, I stopped at La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Ari-zona. It’s an unusual oasis of romance on a decayed stretch of Route KK, a relic from the days of railroad travel and touring cars. Designed in CDBD as a haci-enda for a rich (and imaginary) Spanish family—the kind that might have lived there in the early BHth century—it’s part hotel and part museum, a large villa full of bright colors, arched entry ways, and handsome antique furniture, with vintage black-and-white photos on the walls and a restaurant that looks out over the old railway station. I went to bed listening to the rumble of trains, and when I left the next morning, I knew I would someday return to this haunting place. La Posada was the brainchild of architect and designer Mary Jane Colter. Something of a cult 8gure she was employed during the 8rst half of the BHth century by the Fred Harvey Co., which catered to tourists in the Southwest during the railroad age. (“Neatness, cleanliness, and carefully prepared dishes await the traveler who dines at the Santa Fe feeding houses,” reads one turn-of-the-century advertisement. “Mr. Harvey knows what the travel-ing public wants, and he provides it.”) At the time

Mary  Jane  Colter’s  architecture  was—and  still  is—part  of  the  fabric  of  the  Southweast.  Unique  among  her  peers,  she  planned  it  that  way.  

Bottom  The  Phantom  

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Rio Grande gorge, where the river is a glistening ribbon of white water surrounded by rocky hills. After passing through the shopping-mall sprawl of Espanola and the pueblo communities to the south, I dropped o3 the highway into the old part of Santa Fe and checked into La Fonda Hotel, on the southeastern corner of the plaza. It was one of the 8rst great buildings in the city, a structure both massive and nuanced that occupies an entire block and has been a social institution for artists and travelers since Colter and architect John Gaw Meem expanded it in the mid twenties. Colter’s touches at La Fonda are still present,

but the hotel has changed so much that it’s almost impossible to 8nd her creations on one’s own. Jim Bradbury, the manager, gave me a tour and pointed out some of her e3orts. Colter designed the sand-colored frieze above the 8replace on the south side of the dining room and employed a similar pattern around the tops of the doors and two 8replaces in the nearby Santa Fe Room, which is used for meet-ings and banquets. She also designed the chandeliers and tin work on the light 8xtures in what is now the French Pastry Shop. But I was particularly taken by the little paintings on the windows surround-ing the dining room, initially an open-air patio but

Left  Detail  of  the  Hopi  House

Top  &  Center  Right  Canyon  view  from  Hermit’s  Rest

Bottom  Right  La  Fonda  Hotel

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now an enclosed restaurant that forms the core of the hotel’s ground Eoor. Colter and her artist friend Olive Rush came up with the idea when she was working on the hotel. Ernest Martinez, an artisan who has 8lled a number of jobs at the hotel, has over the past several decades turned out desert sunsets, howling coyotes, solitary cacti, sleeping cowboys, trees and Eowers, and faux mosaics on more than JUH panes, giving La Fonda one of the most colorful dining areas in Santa Fe, and one that reEects some of Colter’s own whimsy. 7ere were moments at La Fonda when I felt as though I were traipsing through a relic that had seen better days. But the place lives on, drawing the curious and loyal, safe in its status as a historic hotel. I left Santa Fe and drove southwest on Inter-state BU. By the time I was about LH miles west of Albuquerque, and now on Interstate JH, my eye was constantly being drawn to distant geological forma-tions that seemed permanent in their pastel shades of coral, pink, earth red, brown, and mustard, yet are part of a process of change that has been taking

place over millennia. In the foreground I could see sparse settle-ments on the

Acoma and Navajo reservations, juniper trees that speckled the rocky landscape, and long freight trains snaking their way along the same rails that carried tourists to Mary Colter’s creations more than half a century ago. 7e drive past the old railroad and mining towns of Grants and Gallup in western New Mexico was an ongoing encounter with startling

features—chiseled portions of cli3 that resembled human faces, huge boulders poised on the sides of hills like landslides in suspended animation, distant spires of rock that I imagined as giant gnarled 8n-gers poking out of the earth. When I drove through in late September, the air was particularly clear and the colors were sharp.

The  Trek  ContinuesAfter Gallup, I crossed into Arizona and entered Na-vajo Nation, and the landscape Eattened out, with distant mountains that appeared faded in the haze of the desert heat. I noticed a billboard advertis-ing La Posada Hotel about BH miles before I got to Winslow, some UH miles east of Flagsta3. Winslow was the southwestern hub for the Santa Fe Railroad during the CDLH’s. Trains dropped passengers o3 on one side of the hotel; Route KK passed by on the other. 7e hotel went into decline with the rest of the town after World War II and was later converted into o_ces for the Santa Fe Railroad. In CDDM it was bought by Allan A3eldt, who is undertaking a major restoration that goes a long way toward honoring Colter’s original creation. As part of her e3ort to create a homelike atmos- phere for her imaginary Spanish family, Colter im-ported furnishings from Russia, China, the Middle East, and Europe in addition to the Southwest, just as such a family might have. She designed wonderful public spaces — a ballroom, wide corridors, alcoves where one can sit and read — and put in a sunken garden sheltered from the wind by the main build-ing. 7e bland drywall that was used by the Santa Fe Railroad to cover up Colter’s walls has been re-moved to reveal original colors and design touches.

1 PHANTOM  RANCH  Tucked in beside Bright Angel Creek on the north side of the Colorado River, it is the only lodging facility below the Canyon rim. Reservations available.

4 THE  LOOKOUT  Lookout Studio employs Colter’s signature rustic style of using jagged native rocks to imitate in-digenous structures and to blend in with the environment.

2 DESERT  VIEW  7e structure is composed of a circular coursed masonry tower rising from a rubble base. 7e base was intentionally designed to convey a ruinous appearance.

3 HOPI  HOUSE  Colter planned Hopi House as a sort of living museum, in which Hopi Indians could live while making and selling traditional handmade crafts.

MARY  JANE  COLTER’S  LEGACY

In  the  foreground  I  could  see  sparse  settlements  on  the  Acoma  and    

Navajo  reservations,  juniper  trees  that  speckled  the  rocky  landscape...

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7e owners consulted an extensive photo collection when planning the restoration of arches and door-ways, and they have tracked down hotel artifacts that had collected in people’s houses, o_ces, and garages. Local artisans have produced new tin work and furniture faithful to Colter’s aesthetic. Each guest room is decorated with its own wall colors, Eoor tiles, antique furniture, and artwork, and each has a di3erent layout. 7e rooms are named for the celebrities and dignitaries who stayed at La Posada in its prime — from Clark Gable and Mary Pickford to Harry Truman and Albert Ein-stein—when it was one of the famous hotels of the Southwest and a rest stop on the way to the Grand Canyon or Arizona’s Painted Desert. La Posada felt like a bargain to me after so many evenings in the sterile anonymity of roadside chain hotels that hadn’t been much cheaper.

The  Final  StopLess than three hours from Winslow is the Grand Canyon. 7e bulk of Colter’s surviving work consists of seven structures along the South Rim built be-

tween CDHU and CDLM, including Bright Angel Lodge, with its simple stone - and - wood cabins and rooms, and a handful of unusual rest spots and lookout points. When Colter started out, the Grand Canyon was a destination for the elite who had the time and money to make what was a rather daring and lengthy journey. By CDLU, when she was commis-sioned to design Bright Angel, the motorcar was the prevailing means of transport, and such travel had become available to the middle class. Now, close to U million people visit the canyon each year. Colter’s Lookout Studio, a stone building that seems to grow naturally over the edge of the rim a few steps from Bright Angel Lodge, has surrendered some of its rustic charm to the increased demands of tourism. I had read great things about it — enough to be disappointed when I encountered a glut of trinkets on sale that competed with the view from the terrace and the windows that swing open over the canyon. Eight miles to the west is Hermits Rest, another piece of fantasy architecture, built in CDCJ for stagecoach travelers and designed like the sooty dwelling of a real hermit. Colter apparently went to

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Top  The  view  of  the  Grand  Canyon

...the  grandeur  of  the  canyon,  with  its  layers  of  toweri  ng  cliffs  and  stone  walls,  made  it  a  sublime  adventure.

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great lengths to achieve the charcoal-smudged look of the large, stone 8replace, which today provides a folksy backdrop for countless tourist snapshots of friends and family. 7e most mythical of Colter’s Grand Canyon works is Phantom Ranch, an unassuming cluster of cabins and a main lodge, nestled along Bright Angel Creek at the bottom of the canyon, U,HHH feet below the rim. Hiking down, I was initially intimidated by the magnitude of what I had gotten myself into, but the grandeur of the canyon, with its layers of tower-ing cli3s and stone walls, made it a sublime adven-ture. Phantom Ranch can accommodate DH visitors a day; perhaps more important for those who arrive tired, sweaty, and hungry, it provides electricity, running water, and wholesome meals. 7e daytime heat at the bottom is oppressive—it can reach CBH at its most extreme during the peak of summer. Early spring or late fall is the best time to go— much cooler. When I wasn’t huddled in the air -conditioned lodge with a cold beer talking to fellow hikers, I spent long periods cooling myself in Bright Angel Creek, a tributary of the Colorado. In the early eve-

ning, a large dinner of steak, vegetables, and wine was served at communal tables to those of us spending the night. 7e dining room at the lodge is simple and rectangular, with wooden tables and benches and walls covered with old photos—includ-ing one of President 7eodore Roosevelt in a coat and tie descending into the canyon by mule. I left on the South Kaibab Trail before sunrise the next morning—tieless and on foot— and four hours and seven miles of ascent later arrived at the rim.7e morning after my climb I drove a leisurely LH miles east on the park road past the turno3 for Grandview Point, to Desert View,on the border of Navajo Nation, to see the Watchtower, which Colter designed in CDLB. To my mind it is her master-piece, a lighthouse - shaped mosaic tower of stone perched on the canyon rim, with four levels of Hopi mythological wall paintings inside, and what may be the greatest view in the world. Far below me was the mighty Colorado River. I sat for a long time away from the tourists and their cameras, listening to the ravens and trying to take in all of the brilliant orange, red, and sandstone shades of the canyon.

...the  grandeur  of  the  canyon,  with  its  layers  of  toweri  ng  cliffs  and  stone  walls,  made  it  a  sublime  adventure.

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Arizona    Adventures

NO.1

-

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:f+Camp  at  Red  Rock  CountryExplore  the  wonders  of  Sedona  and  camp  at  nearby  Red  Rock  Country.  Backpack,  bike  or  take  a  horseback  ride  through  the  indescribably  landscapes  of  Sedona.  There  are  fishing  and  boating  activities  at  local  locations,  as  well  as  activities  listed  below.  Camping  fees  cost  anywhere  from  $16-65  per  night.  Most  sites  are  available  for  reserve.

No.

7

Diamond Creek

-

Num

bers

3 –

6

3. Munds Wagon 4. Sycamore Canyon

-

5. Brins Mesa Trail

-

6. Canyon Creek Trail

number  eightMusical Instrutment Museum

-

«

Vintage By Misty

NO.

9

Recapture  a  classic  look  with  an  array  of  designer  cloth-ing  and  accesso-ries  at  this  unique  vintage  store.

Featuring  clothing  from  a  wide  range  of  designers  you  won’t  have  trouble  finging  a  unique  outfitsat  this  one  stop  shop  located  

in    Phoenix.«

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10. Wyatt Earp

-

11. Chief Cochise 12. Frank Lloyd Wright 13. Geronimo

-

Nos. 10 – 14

Travel  to  the  stomp-ing  grounds  of  some  of  Arizona’s  most  popular  historical  fig-ures  and  see  the  sites  dedicated  to  them.

Joe’s Farm Grill--

-

STAND UP LIVE-

AFTER PARTY

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-

No. 15

no. 20

14. “Red Jack” Averill

nos.  16+17

NUMBER 19

Rio Salado Sportsman ClubIf  you’ve  ever  wanted  to  learn  how  to  shoot  a  gun  like  a  real  cowboy,  this  club  owned  by  the  Arizona  Fish  &  Game  Department  is  the  right  spot  for  you.  With  over  140  acres  of  land,  this  spot  is  just  right  for  beginners  looking  to  try  out  a  new  experience.  The  friendly  and  helpful  staff  will  assist  you  in  making  sure  you  have  the  right  gear  and  the  right  guidance  to  make  that  perfect  shot.  It’s  just  a  hop  off  of  Highway  80  in  Mesa.

American Junkienumber eighteen

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NU

MBE

R 27 FOUR PEAKS

BREWING COMPANY

CANYONEER THE SLOTSDon’t  miss  the  slot  canyons  of  northern  Arizona.  In  this  land  of  slick  rock,  violent  flash  flood  tor-rents  have  sliced  into  sandstone  bedrock,  creating  canyons  so  

narrow  even  the  light  of  midday  barely  illuminates  their  depths.

29. Canoe Lake Saguaro-

numbers 29 + 30

30. Canoe Willow Lake

DESERT BOTANICAL GARDENS

0''’< d',,#

-

-

No. 26

no. 25

Tuba City

-

no. 24

Prado

No. 28

-

22. Take a drive to a Ghost Townnumber twenty-one

Phoenix Zoono. 23

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39. `"^="=-/"^\:' F,^='

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-

40. N\"*")"^ F,^='

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41. N+)^ F,^=' 42. O"9 ]",*+< ")"];'

43. F+;+9+ 1’+@;"e R":^+9

-

NOS. 39 – 43

A SMALL TASTE OF ARIZONA'S TRIBES

Camp Manzanita

NO. 37

Learn to Ride a Horse

-

no. 38

Yh. #\e" <:":' ),^<+9

NUMBER 31

Go to Chase Field to see the Arizona Diamondbacks , famous for being the fastest expan-sion team in the majors to win a championship.

No. 32FRANCES IN PHOENIX

No. 33ESTILO IN SCOTTSDALE

-

No. 34MOODY BLUES IN CHANDLER

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THAT  COWBOY  LOOKA  roadtrip  to  Arizona  wouldn’t  be  complete  with-out  stopping  in  at  least  one  of  the  many  boutiques  along  the  way.  In  these  shops  you’re  sure  to  find  timeless,  well  -  crafted  and  unique  items  that  will  last  for  years  to  come.

HESSTONBullrider  trophy  buckle  replica  in  silverof  an  1879  original  ($245).

DARK  WASH  JEANSEven  if  you’re  not  Clint    

Eastwood,  you’ll  still  look  rug-ged  in  a  pair  of  Levi’s  jeans.

($58  at  Jerry’s,  Tuscon)

DENIM  SHIRTFor  a  range  of  hand  -  crafted  

button  down  shirts  that  reflect  the  unique  fashion  of  Arizona,  look  no  further  

than  this  local  favorite.  ($29,  Bordello’s,  Scottsdale)

TELESCOPE-CROWN  HATNothing  represents  the  spirit  of  independence  like  an  authentic  cowboy  hat.  ($234,  J.W.  Brooks,  Mesa)

THE  PONCHONow,  we’re  not  going  to  sug-gest  that  you  should  buy  a  

poncho  and  where  it  to  work  when  you  get  home.  But  the  beautiful  quiltwork  of  Clint’s  

poncho  can  be  found  in  other  fashions  here.  ($88,  Down-

town  Joe’s,  Bisbee)    

LEATHER  BELTA  quality  leather  belt  is  es-

sential  to  any  closet  no  matter  your  style  preferences.

(prices  vary,  Atlai  Leather  Designs,  Jerome)

COLE  MASERLonghorn  steer  design  with  an  

antique  finish  on  pewter  ($39).

DESERT  SILVERSilver  engraved  

Western  style  belt  buckle  with  etched  

trim  ($185).

WATOOSolid  pewter  

construction  with  wheel  design  

etched  in  ($86),

FINDING  THE  RIGHT  BUCKLEThe  Western  belt  buckle  was  made  famous  by  Hol-lywood,  but  his-torically  cowboys  wore  suspenders.

MABELS  ON  MAINThis  small  shop  on  the  corner  of  Sutton  and  Main  Street  in  Bisbee  Center  has  a  gorgeous  selection  of  local  artisan’s  jewelry  and  accessories.  

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-()*+,'

ALASKATHE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS

EXPERIENCE  THE  COASTAL  WILDERNESS

A  FOUR  DAY  HIKE  THROUGH  DENALI

ADVENTURE  IN  THE  KENAI  PENINSULA

page &' page "$1 page "23

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