Transcript
Page 1: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Physical OceanographyPhysical OceanographyChap. 15Chap. 15Chap. 15Chap. 15

The Oceans

Sea Water

Ocean Movements

Page 2: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

The Oceans – 15.1ObjectivesObjectives• identify methods used by scientists to study Earth’s oceans• discuss the origin and composition of the oceans.• describe the distribution of oceans and major seas

Page 3: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroduction

Page 4: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroduction

What are some useful features of oceans?What are some useful features of oceans?

A.A. UsesUses

Page 5: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroductionA.A. UsesUses

1.1. traveltravel

2.2. fishing/foodfishing/food

3.3. recreationrecreation

Page 6: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroductionA.A. UsesUses

B.B. StudyingStudying

Page 7: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroductionA.A. UsesUses

B.B. StudyingStudying1.1. H.M.S. ChallengerH.M.S. Challenger

Measured depth, water temperature, fauna, current, Measured depth, water temperature, fauna, current, and other data. First measured Mariana trench and other data. First measured Mariana trench (26,890 ft.)(26,890 ft.)

Page 8: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroductionA.A. UsesUses

B.B. StudyingStudying1.1. H.M.S. ChallengerH.M.S. Challenger

2.2. MeteorMeteor

Used sonar to map undersea topographyUsed sonar to map undersea topography

Page 9: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Example CalculationExample Calculation

A sonar signal travels A sonar signal travels about 1500 m/s in ocean about 1500 m/s in ocean water. If it takes 6 seconds water. If it takes 6 seconds for a signal to return to the for a signal to return to the ship after it is emitted what ship after it is emitted what is the distance to the ocean is the distance to the ocean floor?floor?

Page 10: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. IntroductionIntroductionA.A. UsesUses

B.B. StudyingStudying1.1. H.M.S. ChallengerH.M.S. Challenger

2.2. MeteorMeteor

3.3. TOPEX-PoseidonTOPEX-Poseidon

NASA satellite that measures ocean dataNASA satellite that measures ocean data

Page 11: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

TOPEX/PoseidonTOPEX/Poseidon

• tracks ocean tides• measures sea levels (to 5 cm accuracy)• monitors climates by measuring ocean temperatures.

Page 12: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean origins

Page 13: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

Page 14: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

1.1. Lava flows have been dated at 4.6 b.y.Lava flows have been dated at 4.6 b.y.

Page 15: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

1.1. Lava flows have been dated at 4.6 b.y.Lava flows have been dated at 4.6 b.y.

2.2. These formed rocks by cooling quickly These formed rocks by cooling quickly (in water)(in water)

Page 16: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

B.B. Source of waterSource of water

Page 17: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

B.B. Source of waterSource of water1.1. Comets (dirty snow Comets (dirty snow

balls)balls)

Page 18: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean originsOcean originsA.A. Oceans are as old as Earth’s rocksOceans are as old as Earth’s rocks

B.B. Source of waterSource of water1.1. Comets (dirty snow balls)Comets (dirty snow balls)

2.2. Water was trapped in Water was trapped in Earth when it formed. Earth when it formed. Volcanoes released this Volcanoes released this into the atmosphere.into the atmosphere.

Page 19: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

This is also called the hydrosphereThis is also called the hydrosphere

Page 20: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

A.A. LocationLocation

Where is the Earth’s water found?Where is the Earth’s water found?

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

Page 21: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 22: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

Salt Water (oceans) 97.2%

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 23: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

Salt Water (oceans) 97.2% 1941 mL

Fresh Water 2.8%

Ice

Underground

Surface

Soil & Air

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 24: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

Salt Water (oceans) 97.2% 1941 mL

Fresh Water 2.8% 56 mL

Ice 2.3%

Underground

Surface

Soil & Air

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 25: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

Salt Water (oceans) 97.2% 1941 mL

Fresh Water 2.8% 56 mL

Ice 2.3% 46 mL

Underground 0.4%

Surface

Soil & Air

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 26: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Type Percentage Volume Used in Model

Total 100 % 2000 mL

Salt Water (oceans) 97.2% 1941 mL

Fresh Water 2.8% 56 mL

Ice 2.3% 46 mL

Underground 0.4% 8 mL

Surface ~ 0.05% 1 mL

Soil & Air ~ 0.01% 0.2 mL

The HydrosphereThe Hydrosphere

Page 27: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

A.A. LocationLocation

B.B. Amount of frozen water has variedAmount of frozen water has varied

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

Page 28: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

A.A. LocationLocation

B.B. Amount of frozen water has variedAmount of frozen water has varied1.1. During ice ages as much as 10% of During ice ages as much as 10% of

hydrosphere was frozen.hydrosphere was frozen.

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

Page 29: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

A.A. LocationLocation

B.B. Amount of frozen water has variedAmount of frozen water has varied1.1. During ice ages as much as 10% of During ice ages as much as 10% of

hydrosphere was frozen.hydrosphere was frozen.

2.2. Sea level varied by hundreds of Sea level varied by hundreds of meters.meters.

Due to melting of glaciers and tectonic forces altering Due to melting of glaciers and tectonic forces altering sea floor.sea floor.

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

Page 30: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

C.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered by water (71%)by water (71%)

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s Water

Page 31: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

1.1. The The hemisphere contains hemisphere contains higher percentage of water.higher percentage of water.

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s WaterC.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered

by water (71%)by water (71%)

Page 32: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s WaterC.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered

by water (71%)by water (71%)

1.1. The The southernsouthern hemisphere contains hemisphere contains higher percentage of water.higher percentage of water.

2.2. All oceans are connected.All oceans are connected.

Page 33: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s WaterC.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered

by water (71%)by water (71%)

1.1. The The southernsouthern hemisphere contains hemisphere contains higher percentage of water.higher percentage of water.

2.2. All oceans are connected.All oceans are connected.

3.3. Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans are main oceans.are main oceans.

Page 34: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s WaterC.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered

by water (71%)by water (71%)

1.1. The The southernsouthern hemisphere contains hemisphere contains higher percentage of water.higher percentage of water.

2.2. All oceans are connected.All oceans are connected.

3.3. Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans are main oceans.are main oceans.

4.4. Seas are partly or mostly surrounded Seas are partly or mostly surrounded by land.by land.

Page 35: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

III.III. Earth’s WaterEarth’s WaterC.C. Most of Earth’s surface is covered Most of Earth’s surface is covered

by water (71%)by water (71%)

1.1. The The southernsouthern hemisphere contains hemisphere contains higher percentage of water.higher percentage of water.

2.2. All oceans are connected.All oceans are connected.

3.3. Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans are main oceans.are main oceans.

4.4. Seas are partly or mostly surrounded Seas are partly or mostly surrounded by land.by land.

5.5. Sea ice forms in the Arctic and Sea ice forms in the Arctic and Antarctic seas.Antarctic seas.

Page 36: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

The End

Page 37: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Seawater - 15.2

ObjectivesObjectives• compare & contrast physical and chemical properties of seawater• explain ocean layering• describe the formation of deep-water masses

Page 38: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical Properties

Page 39: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

A measure of the dissolved salts in water.A measure of the dissolved salts in water.

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

Page 40: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

1.1. Sea water is about 35 parts per Sea water is about 35 parts per thousand (ppt) saltsthousand (ppt) salts

Page 41: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

1.1. Sea water is about 35 parts per Sea water is about 35 parts per thousand (ppt) saltsthousand (ppt) salts

2.2. Salts include NaSalts include Na++, Cl, Cl-- , SO , SO442-2-, Mg, Mg2+2+, ,

CaCa2+2+, K, K++, HCO, HCO33--, and others, and others

Page 42: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

3.3. The salinity varies and is lower The salinity varies and is lower where there is . . .where there is . . .

Page 43: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

3.3. The salinity varies and is lower The salinity varies and is lower where there is . . .where there is . . .

a.a. a lot of precipitationa lot of precipitation

Page 44: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

3.3. The salinity varies and is lower The salinity varies and is lower where there is . . .where there is . . .

a.a. a lot of precipitationa lot of precipitation

b.b. an estuary/river deltaan estuary/river delta

Page 45: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

3.3. The salinity varies and is lower The salinity varies and is lower where there is . . .where there is . . .

a.a. a lot of precipitationa lot of precipitation

b.b. an estuary/river deltaan estuary/river delta

c.c. melting of glaciersmelting of glaciers

Page 46: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

Page 47: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

a.a. the atmosphere (Clthe atmosphere (Cl- - and SOand SO442-2-))

Page 48: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

a.a. the atmosphere (Clthe atmosphere (Cl- - and SOand SO442-2-))

b.b. weathering rocks (Naweathering rocks (Na++, K, K++, Ca, Ca2+2+ from feldspar)from feldspar)

Page 49: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

5.5. Removing sea saltRemoving sea salt

Page 50: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

5.5. Removing sea saltRemoving sea salta.a. deposited when water evaporatesdeposited when water evaporates

Page 51: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

5.5. Removing sea saltRemoving sea salta.a. deposited when water evaporatesdeposited when water evaporates

b.b. carried via sea spraycarried via sea spray

Page 52: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. Chemical PropertiesChemical PropertiesA.A. SalinitySalinity

4.4. Source of sea saltSource of sea salt

5.5. Removing sea saltRemoving sea salta.a. deposited when water evaporatesdeposited when water evaporates

b.b. carried via sea spraycarried via sea spray

c.c. marine organisms use it in marine organisms use it in building shells, bones, and teethbuilding shells, bones, and teeth

Page 53: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical Properties

Page 54: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesA.A. Density is greater than 1.00 g/cmDensity is greater than 1.00 g/cm33

Density of fresh water is 1.00 g/cmDensity of fresh water is 1.00 g/cm33

Page 55: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Can be as low as -2Can be as low as -2ºCºC

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesA.A. Density is greater than 1.00 g/cmDensity is greater than 1.00 g/cm33

B.B. Freezing point is less than 0Freezing point is less than 0ºCºC

Page 56: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesA.A. Density is greater than 1.00 g/cmDensity is greater than 1.00 g/cm33

B.B. Freezing point is less than 0Freezing point is less than 0ºCºC

C.C. Light absorptionLight absorption

Page 57: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesA.A. Density is greater than 1.00 g/cmDensity is greater than 1.00 g/cm33

B.B. Freezing point is less than 0Freezing point is less than 0ºCºC

C.C. Light absorptionLight absorption1.1. Water absorbs lightWater absorbs light

The ocean is completely dark at depths > 100 mThe ocean is completely dark at depths > 100 m

Page 58: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesA.A. Density is greater than 1.00 g/cmDensity is greater than 1.00 g/cm33

B.B. Freezing point is less than 0Freezing point is less than 0ºCºC

C.C. Light absorptionLight absorption1.1. Water absorbs lightWater absorbs light

2.2. Some colors penetrate Some colors penetrate further than othersfurther than others

Page 59: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesD.D. LayersLayers

Page 60: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesD.D. LayersLayers

1.1. The deeper you go the _____ the temp.The deeper you go the _____ the temp.

Page 61: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesD.D. LayersLayers

1.1. The deeper you go the The deeper you go the coolercooler the temp. the temp.

2.2. Temperature profiles show water Temperature profiles show water depth/temperature relationshipdepth/temperature relationship

Page 62: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesD.D. LayersLayers

1.1. The deeper you go the The deeper you go the coolercooler the temp. the temp.

2.2. Temperature profiles show water Temperature profiles show water depth/temperature relationshipdepth/temperature relationship

3.3. The The thermoclinethermocline is a layer in which the is a layer in which the temperature decreases linearly with temperature decreases linearly with depthdepth

Page 63: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesD.D. LayersLayers

1.1. The deeper you go the The deeper you go the coolercooler the temp. the temp.

2.2. Temperature profiles show water Temperature profiles show water depth/temperature relationshipdepth/temperature relationship

3.3. The The thermoclinethermocline is a layer in which the is a layer in which the temperature decreases linearly with temperature decreases linearly with depthdepth

4.4. There is no thermocline for polar seasThere is no thermocline for polar seas

Page 64: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesE.E. Water massesWater masses

Page 65: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesE.E. Water massesWater masses

1.1. Cold water comes from polar seasCold water comes from polar seas

Page 66: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesE.E. Water massesWater masses

1.1. Cold water comes from polar seasCold water comes from polar seas

2.2. Surface water sinks as salinity Surface water sinks as salinity increases due to sea ice formationincreases due to sea ice formation

Page 67: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesE.E. Water massesWater masses

1.1. Cold water comes from polar seasCold water comes from polar seas

2.2. Surface water sinks as salinity Surface water sinks as salinity increases due to sea ice formationincreases due to sea ice formation

3.3. Deep currents carry water to the Deep currents carry water to the equatorequator

Page 68: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

The End

Page 69: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Ocean Movements – 15.3

ObjectivesObjectives• describe the

physical properties of waves

• explain how tides form

• compare and contrast various ocean currents

http://tv-antenna.com/heavy-seas/3/

Page 70: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWaves

Periodic movement that carries energy from one Periodic movement that carries energy from one place to another.place to another.

Page 71: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

Page 72: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

1.1. CrestCrest

The peak of a waveThe peak of a wave

http://ans.hsh.no/home/bji/Fys01/week8/nasa/

Page 73: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

1.1. CrestCrest

2.2. TroughTrough

Lowest part of a waveLowest part of a wave

http://ans.hsh.no/home/bji/Fys01/week8/nasa/

Page 74: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

1.1. CrestCrest

2.2. TroughTrough

3.3. WavelengthWavelength

Distance between successive wave crests (or troughs)Distance between successive wave crests (or troughs)

http://ans.hsh.no/home/bji/Fys01/week8/nasa/

Page 75: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

1.1. CrestCrest

2.2. TroughTrough

3.3. WavelengthWavelength

4.4. Wave heightWave height

Depends on wind speed, wind duration, and fetch.Depends on wind speed, wind duration, and fetch.

Page 76: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

5.5. BreakersBreakers

Collapsing wavesCollapsing waves

Page 77: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

5.5. BreakersBreakers

More friction with ocean bottom causes waves to More friction with ocean bottom causes waves to slow.slow.

a.a. Waves slow Waves slow downdown

Page 78: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesA.A. Wave characteristicsWave characteristics

5.5. BreakersBreakers

The tops of the waves collapse forward because the The tops of the waves collapse forward because the bottoms are being slowedbottoms are being slowed

a.a. Waves slow Waves slow downdown

b.b. Waves Waves become become unstableunstable

Page 79: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

Periodic rise and fall of sea level.Periodic rise and fall of sea level.

Page 80: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

1.1. High tideHigh tide

Highest level to which water rises (a bulge of water)Highest level to which water rises (a bulge of water)

Page 81: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

1.1. High tideHigh tide

2.2. Low tideLow tide

Lowest level water rises (caused by lack of water)Lowest level water rises (caused by lack of water)

Page 82: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

3.3. Types of daily cyclesTypes of daily cycles

Caused by topography and latitudeCaused by topography and latitude

Page 83: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

3.3. Types of daily cyclesTypes of daily cycles

Characterized by __ high tides each dayCharacterized by __ high tides each day

a.a. SemidiurnalSemidiurnal

Page 84: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

3.3. Types of daily cyclesTypes of daily cycles

Have one pronounced high tide and one _____ high tideHave one pronounced high tide and one _____ high tide

a.a. SemidiurnalSemidiurnal

b.b. MixedMixed

Page 85: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

3.3. Types of daily cyclesTypes of daily cycles

a.a. SemidiurnalSemidiurnal

b.b. MixedMixed

c.c. DiurnalDiurnal

Characterized by one ____ ____ each dayCharacterized by one ____ ____ each day

Page 86: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides tutorial

Page 87: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides

a.a. Gravity from theGravity from the moon pulls on moon pulls on earth/oceansearth/oceans

Page 88: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides

a.a. Gravity from theGravity from the moon pulls on moon pulls on earth/oceansearth/oceans

b.b. Centrifugal motion moves the Centrifugal motion moves the water away from Earthwater away from Earth

Page 89: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides

c.c. During spring tide (unrelated to During spring tide (unrelated to the season) high tides are highestthe season) high tides are highest

Page 90: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides

c.c. During spring tide (unrelated to During spring tide (unrelated to the season) high tides are highestthe season) high tides are highest

d.d. During neap tide high tides are During neap tide high tides are lower and low tides are higher than lower and low tides are higher than normalnormal

Page 91: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

I.I. WavesWavesB.B. TidesTides

4.4. Cause of tidesCause of tides

e.e. The sun influences tides to a The sun influences tides to a smaller degreesmaller degree

This is because of the greater distance between Earth This is because of the greater distance between Earth and the sun (compared to Earth and the moon)and the sun (compared to Earth and the moon)

Page 92: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsA.A. Density currentsDensity currents

Move bottom water according to temperature and Move bottom water according to temperature and salinity differencessalinity differences

Page 93: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsA.A. Density currentsDensity currents

B.B. Surface currentsSurface currents

Driven by surface wind.Driven by surface wind.

Page 94: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsA.A. Density currentsDensity currents

B.B. Surface currentsSurface currents

Trade winds, prevailing westerlies, polar easterly Trade winds, prevailing westerlies, polar easterly winds. Coriolis effect alters directionswinds. Coriolis effect alters directions

1.1. Follow global wind patternsFollow global wind patterns

Page 95: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsA.A. Density currentsDensity currents

B.B. Surface currentsSurface currents1.1. Follow global wind patternsFollow global wind patterns

2.2. Currents from the poles bring Currents from the poles bring colder water, while currents from colder water, while currents from equator bring warmer waterequator bring warmer water

Page 96: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsA.A. Density currentsDensity currents

B.B. Surface currentsSurface currents

Circular surface ocean currentsCircular surface ocean currents

1.1. Follow global wind patternsFollow global wind patterns

2.2. Currents from the poles bring Currents from the poles bring colder water, while currents from colder water, while currents from equator bring warmer waterequator bring warmer water

3.3. Gyres develop due to landmasses Gyres develop due to landmasses interacting with current flowinteracting with current flow

Page 97: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

Major Ocean CurrentsMajor Ocean Currents

Page 98: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

II.II. Ocean CurrentsOcean CurrentsC.C. Upwelling brings nutrient-rich Upwelling brings nutrient-rich

water.water.

Movement of cold water upward as surface water is Movement of cold water upward as surface water is blown by offshore windsblown by offshore winds

Page 99: Physical Oceanography Chap. 15 The Oceans Sea Water Ocean Movements

The End


Top Related