Everything you wanted to know about sustainability
Ed Rolls
Introduction
• What is sustainability?• Why the need for sustainability?• How can personal care/cosmetic brands
be sustainable
What is Sustainability?
Sustainability is based on a simple principle:
“Everything that we need for our survival and well-being depends, either directly or indirectly, on our natural environment. Sustainability creates and maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony, that permit fulfilling the social, economic and other requirements of present and future generations.”
Sustainability is important to making sure that we have and will continue to have, the water, materials, and resources to protect human health and our environment.
www.EPA.gov
Why the need for sustainability?
“it now takes the Earth one year and four months to regenerate what we deplete in a year”
Global Footprint Network
Sustainability has emerged as a result of:
• rapid population growth, • economic growth • consumption of our (natural) resources.
How can personal care/cosmetic brands be
sustainable?
Easiest Option…..
…..Use raw materials for a company that has sustainable practises
• Environmental projects• Community programmes
Environmental Initiative
• Sudarshan have planted 25,000 trees across India as part of a government project
• Plan to plant 5000 more next year• Sudarshan are also involved in community projects
Next Option…..
…..Become Natural
• Using petrochemical derivatives is not sustainable (they will run out) and also energy intensive
• Huge range of natural and natural derived ingredients now available
Deodorant Agent Tegodeo PY 88 Zinc Ricinoleate Evonik Industries AG Emulsifier Axol C 62 Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Evonik Industries AG Tego Cosmo P 813 Polyglyceryl-3-Caprylate Evonik Industries AG Isolan GI 34 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate Evonik Industries AG
Isolan GPS
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sabacate Evonik Industries AG
Emollient Schecermol 1818 Isostearyl Isostearate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Isolan IS Methyl Glucose Isostearate Evonik Industries AG
Schecermol GMIS Glyceryl Isostearate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Isolan PDIDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3-Dimer Dilinoleate Evonik Industries AG
Schecermol OLO Oleyl Oleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Tegin OV Glyceryl Oleate Evonik Industries AG Schercemol MM Myristyl Myristate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Tegin Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries AG
Schercemol PDDDiisostearyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Tego Care 450 Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose Evonik Industries AG
Schercemol PTIDTriisostearyl polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Tego Care CG 90 Ceteryl Glucoside Evonik Industries AG
Hydramol™ TGL Ester Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate Lubrizol Advanced Materials Tego Care LTPSorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4-Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft AC Isoamyl Cocoate Evonik Industries AG Tego Care PSC 3 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Citrate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft CRCetyl Ricinoleate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG Tego Care PS Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft CT Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Evonik Industries AG Tego SML Sorbitan Laurate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft DCDecyl Cocoate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG Tego SMO V Sorbitan Oleate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft DO Decyl Oleate Evonik Industries AG Tego SMS Sorbitan Stearate Evonik Industries AG Tegosoft LSE 65 K Soft Sucrose Cocoate Evonik Industries AG Tego STO V Sorbitan Trioleate Evonik Industries AG Tegosoft M Isopropyl Myristate Evonik Industries AG Tego Care PL4 Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft MMMyristyl Myristate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft OER Oleyl Erucate Evonik Industries AGRheological Additives Surfacare GLB60
Cocamidopropyl Betaine; Glyceryl Laurate Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft P Isopropyl Palmitate Evonik Industries AG Antil Soft SC Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate Evonik Industries AG Tegosoft PC 31 Polyglyceryl-3-Caprate Evonik Industries AG Tegosoft TIS Triisostearine Evonik Industries AG
Preservative Salinatural CCL Curry Leaf Oil, Cinnamon leaf oilSalicylates and Chemicals
Surfactant Perlastan SCSodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Schill & Seilacher Salinatural BCLS
Basil Extract, Clove Bud Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil
Salicylates and Chemicals
Lathanol LAL Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan Salinatural OLGOrange oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil
Salicylates and Chemicals
Rewopol SBF 12P Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate Evonik Industries AG Salinatural TCLSTurmeric Oil, Clove Bud Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil
Salicylates and Chemicals
Stepan SLL FB Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Stepan
Stepan SSL CG Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate StepanStabilizer / Solubiliser Tegin 4100 Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries AG
Surfac APGPC Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside Surfachem Tego Soft PC41 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Evonik Industries AG Tego Betain 810 Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries AG Rewoteric AM C Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Evonik Industries AG
Very brief list of our natural offerings ….
Salinatural CCL
Salinatural OLG
Salinatural BCLS
Salinatural TCLS
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Amino acids as building block - L-glutamic acid
COOHNH2
COOH
COOHNH3C
Hglutamic acid sarcosine
• proteinogenic amino acid building block of protein
• found naturally • in our bodies • protein containing foods etc.
• made by • fermentation process via corynebacterium glutamicum• raw materials like sugar beets, sugar cane (it's molasses)
• used • as flavour enhancer
- glutamic acid consumption is approx. 1.7 mio. tons/year worldwide- code: E 621- intake: 0.3-0.5 g/day in Europe, 1.2-1.7 g/day in Asia
• for surfactant production- consumption is several thousand tons worldwide
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Range of approved Glucamates
Product name PERLASTAN® SC
PERLASTAN® SL
CTFA/INCI name Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Active Ingredient[%]
24.0 - 26.0 24.0 - 26.0
pH, 10 % Solution 7.5 - 9.5 7.5 - 9.5
Sodium Soap[%]
max. 2.5 max. 2.5
Appearance slightly yellowish clear liquid
slightly yellowish clear liquid
1,2-Propylene Glycol [%]
none none
Sodium Chloride[%]
< 0.5 < 0.5
*All Products are free of preservatives
What about the Palm Oil problem?
• Nearly all these natural ingredients to some extent
use palm oil• Palm oil yields greater amount of long chain
glycerides than most other natural oils• Palm oil plantations can’t be turned back to
rainforest• RSPO – Objectives to promote the growth and
use of sustainable palm oil• RSPO hasn’t achieved a great deal yet• All our major manufacturers are members• Green palm certificates
If only being natural is not
good enough…..
• Some ingredients are more sustainable than others• New biotechnologies• Low energy production processes
Polyglyceryl Technology
• Perfect match of eco-efficiency, performance from mild green chemistry
• Alternative to petrochemical (PEG) based emulsifiers and solubilisers
• Tegocare PSC 3 – Emulsifier • Tegosoft PC41 - Solubiliser
Bio-renewable Ceramides
• Derived from yeast ferment• Human identical• In-vivo and in-vitro data • Perfect for anti-ageing and moisturising • Skinflux V• Sphingokine NP• Phytosphingosine SLC
Enzymatic Emollients
• 60% energy saving• Lower green house gas
production• Reduction of formation of
environmentally damaging
impurities by 88%• Bio-catylists are
derived from nature• Tegosoft AC• Tegosot CR
raw mat.
reaction
packing
catalystrecycled
enzymatic
aqueous waste
raw mat.
reaction
desodor.
bleaching
drying
filtration
packing
catalyst
steam
bleach
filter aid
volatile comp.
aqueous waste
solid waste
conventional
> 180°C140°C100°C
60°C20°C
applied temperature
The ultimate in
sustainability…..
• Looking after environment and local farmers
Phytotrade Africa• Established in 2002• Trade association for natural products
of southern Africa• For food/drink and oils for cosmetics• Aims
– Alleviate Poverty– Protect Biodiveristy– Develop an economically successful industry that is ethical and
sustainable
UbuntuTM Natural RangeMongongo Oil• High in Vitamin E, linoleic and elostearic acid• Eleostearic acid reacts with light, to give a protective layer• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the epidermis
Baobab Oil• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acid• Long shelf life and doesn’t dry out on contact with air• Adds body and shine to hair and combats dry scalp
Marula Oil• High in oleic and inoleic acids and high in antioxidants meaning it is one of the most
stable natural oils• Softens, nourishes and revitalises skin
UbuntuTM Natural RangeKhalahari Oil• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids, high in antioxidants
to deal with the harsh Khalahari dessert• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the skin
Ximenia Oil• Very effective at treating dry skin prone to ageing, and
improves function of sebaceous tissues• Xymenynic acid improves blood flow to the skin• Suitable for anti-ageing, eye-care, dry damaged hair, acne ranges
Mafura Butter• Melts at 30C, high in in palmitic, stearic, oleic and linoleic acids• Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity due to presence of limonids• Very effective free-radical scavenger
Fairtrade• Established in 1992• Visions for a world with justice and sustainability• Standards requires farmers to work to protect the
environment • Encouraged to use as little non-renewable energy
source as possible• Farmers receive Fairtrade premiums for economic, social and
environmental products– In Costa Rica farmers have invested in re-planting of trees to prevent
soil erosion and environmentally friendly ovens that used coffee hulls and macadamia nut shells to power them