Everything you wanted to know about sustainability

Ed Rolls

Introduction

• What is sustainability?• Why the need for sustainability?• How can personal care/cosmetic brands

be sustainable

What is Sustainability?

Sustainability is based on a simple principle:

“Everything that we need for our survival and well-being depends, either directly or indirectly, on our natural environment. Sustainability creates and maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony, that permit fulfilling the social, economic and other requirements of present and future generations.”

Sustainability is important to making sure that we have and will continue to have, the water, materials, and resources to protect human health and our environment.

www.EPA.gov

Why the need for sustainability?

“it now takes the Earth one year and four months to regenerate what we deplete in a year”

Global Footprint Network

Sustainability has emerged as a result of:

• rapid population growth, • economic growth • consumption of our (natural) resources.

How can personal care/cosmetic brands be

sustainable?

Easiest Option…..

…..Use raw materials for a company that has sustainable practises

• Environmental projects• Community programmes

Environmental Initiative

• Sudarshan have planted 25,000 trees across India as part of a government project

• Plan to plant 5000 more next year• Sudarshan are also involved in community projects

Next Option…..

…..Become Natural

• Using petrochemical derivatives is not sustainable (they will run out) and also energy intensive

• Huge range of natural and natural derived ingredients now available

Deodorant Agent Tegodeo PY 88 Zinc Ricinoleate Evonik Industries AG Emulsifier Axol C 62 Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Evonik Industries AG  Tego Cosmo P 813 Polyglyceryl-3-Caprylate Evonik Industries AG   Isolan GI 34 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate Evonik Industries AG

  Isolan GPS

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sabacate Evonik Industries AG

Emollient Schecermol 1818 Isostearyl Isostearate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Isolan IS Methyl Glucose Isostearate Evonik Industries AG

  Schecermol GMIS Glyceryl Isostearate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Isolan PDIDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3-Dimer Dilinoleate Evonik Industries AG

  Schecermol OLO Oleyl Oleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Tegin OV Glyceryl Oleate Evonik Industries AG  Schercemol MM Myristyl Myristate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Tegin Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries AG

  Schercemol PDDDiisostearyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Tego Care 450 Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose Evonik Industries AG

  Schercemol PTIDTriisostearyl polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Tego Care CG 90 Ceteryl Glucoside Evonik Industries AG

  Hydramol™ TGL Ester Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate Lubrizol Advanced Materials   Tego Care LTPSorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4-Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft AC Isoamyl Cocoate Evonik Industries AG   Tego Care PSC 3 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Citrate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft CRCetyl Ricinoleate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG   Tego Care PS Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft CT Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Evonik Industries AG   Tego SML Sorbitan Laurate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft DCDecyl Cocoate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG   Tego SMO V Sorbitan Oleate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft DO Decyl Oleate Evonik Industries AG   Tego SMS Sorbitan Stearate Evonik Industries AG  Tegosoft LSE 65 K Soft Sucrose Cocoate Evonik Industries AG   Tego STO V Sorbitan Trioleate Evonik Industries AG  Tegosoft M Isopropyl Myristate Evonik Industries AG   Tego Care PL4 Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft MMMyristyl Myristate (* made by Biocatalysis) Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft OER Oleyl Erucate Evonik Industries AGRheological Additives Surfacare GLB60

Cocamidopropyl Betaine; Glyceryl Laurate Evonik Industries AG

  Tegosoft P Isopropyl Palmitate Evonik Industries AG   Antil Soft SC Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate Evonik Industries AG  Tegosoft PC 31 Polyglyceryl-3-Caprate Evonik Industries AG  Tegosoft TIS Triisostearine Evonik Industries AG

Preservative Salinatural CCL Curry Leaf Oil, Cinnamon leaf oilSalicylates and Chemicals

Surfactant Perlastan SCSodium/Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Schill & Seilacher   Salinatural BCLS

Basil Extract, Clove Bud Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil

Salicylates and Chemicals

  Lathanol LAL Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan   Salinatural OLGOrange oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil

Salicylates and Chemicals

  Rewopol SBF 12P Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate Evonik Industries AG   Salinatural TCLSTurmeric Oil, Clove Bud Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil

Salicylates and Chemicals

  Stepan SLL FB Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Stepan

  Stepan SSL CG Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate StepanStabilizer / Solubiliser Tegin 4100 Pellets Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries AG

  Surfac APGPC Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside Surfachem   Tego Soft PC41 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Evonik Industries AG  Tego Betain 810 Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries AG  Rewoteric AM C Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Evonik Industries AG

Very brief list of our natural offerings ….

Salinatural CCL

Salinatural OLG

Salinatural BCLS

Salinatural TCLS 

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Amino acids as building block - L-glutamic acid

COOHNH2

COOH

COOHNH3C

Hglutamic acid sarcosine

• proteinogenic amino acid building block of protein

• found naturally • in our bodies • protein containing foods etc.

• made by • fermentation process via corynebacterium glutamicum• raw materials like sugar beets, sugar cane (it's molasses)

• used • as flavour enhancer

- glutamic acid consumption is approx. 1.7 mio. tons/year worldwide- code: E 621- intake: 0.3-0.5 g/day in Europe, 1.2-1.7 g/day in Asia

• for surfactant production- consumption is several thousand tons worldwide

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Range of approved Glucamates

Product name PERLASTAN® SC

PERLASTAN® SL

CTFA/INCI name Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Active Ingredient[%]

24.0 - 26.0 24.0 - 26.0

pH, 10 % Solution 7.5 - 9.5 7.5 - 9.5

Sodium Soap[%]

max. 2.5 max. 2.5

Appearance slightly yellowish clear liquid

slightly yellowish clear liquid

1,2-Propylene Glycol [%]

none none

Sodium Chloride[%]

< 0.5 < 0.5

*All Products are free of preservatives

What about the Palm Oil problem?

• Nearly all these natural ingredients to some extent

use palm oil• Palm oil yields greater amount of long chain

glycerides than most other natural oils• Palm oil plantations can’t be turned back to

rainforest• RSPO – Objectives to promote the growth and

use of sustainable palm oil• RSPO hasn’t achieved a great deal yet• All our major manufacturers are members• Green palm certificates

If only being natural is not

good enough…..

• Some ingredients are more sustainable than others• New biotechnologies• Low energy production processes

Polyglyceryl Technology

• Perfect match of eco-efficiency, performance from mild green chemistry

• Alternative to petrochemical (PEG) based emulsifiers and solubilisers

• Tegocare PSC 3 – Emulsifier • Tegosoft PC41 - Solubiliser

Bio-renewable Ceramides

• Derived from yeast ferment• Human identical• In-vivo and in-vitro data • Perfect for anti-ageing and moisturising • Skinflux V• Sphingokine NP• Phytosphingosine SLC

Enzymatic Emollients

• 60% energy saving• Lower green house gas

production• Reduction of formation of

environmentally damaging

impurities by 88%• Bio-catylists are

derived from nature• Tegosoft AC• Tegosot CR

raw mat.

reaction

packing

catalystrecycled

enzymatic

aqueous waste

raw mat.

reaction

desodor.

bleaching

drying

filtration

packing

catalyst

steam

bleach

filter aid

volatile comp.

aqueous waste

solid waste

conventional

> 180°C140°C100°C

60°C20°C

applied temperature

The ultimate in

sustainability…..

• Looking after environment and local farmers

Phytotrade Africa• Established in 2002• Trade association for natural products

of southern Africa• For food/drink and oils for cosmetics• Aims

– Alleviate Poverty– Protect Biodiveristy– Develop an economically successful industry that is ethical and

sustainable

UbuntuTM Natural RangeMongongo Oil• High in Vitamin E, linoleic and elostearic acid• Eleostearic acid reacts with light, to give a protective layer• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the epidermis

Baobab Oil• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acid• Long shelf life and doesn’t dry out on contact with air• Adds body and shine to hair and combats dry scalp

Marula Oil• High in oleic and inoleic acids and high in antioxidants meaning it is one of the most

stable natural oils• Softens, nourishes and revitalises skin

UbuntuTM Natural RangeKhalahari Oil• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids, high in antioxidants

to deal with the harsh Khalahari dessert• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the skin

Ximenia Oil• Very effective at treating dry skin prone to ageing, and

improves function of sebaceous tissues• Xymenynic acid improves blood flow to the skin• Suitable for anti-ageing, eye-care, dry damaged hair, acne ranges

Mafura Butter• Melts at 30C, high in in palmitic, stearic, oleic and linoleic acids• Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity due to presence of limonids• Very effective free-radical scavenger

Fairtrade• Established in 1992• Visions for a world with justice and sustainability• Standards requires farmers to work to protect the

environment • Encouraged to use as little non-renewable energy

source as possible• Farmers receive Fairtrade premiums for economic, social and

environmental products– In Costa Rica farmers have invested in re-planting of trees to prevent

soil erosion and environmentally friendly ovens that used coffee hulls and macadamia nut shells to power them