denim garments quality control and inspection services

Denim Garment Quality Control

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YOUR QUALITY DEPARTMENT IN ASIA www.AsiaQualityControl.com

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Buy and Manufacture Safer in Asia

For every business get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies, it is important to maintain your quality standard level.

In the garment industry is not different, and quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the final stage of finished garment.

For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard s of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products.

However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets. There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment.

Quality Standard for GarmentsBuy and Manufacture

Safer in Asia

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• Overall look• Right formation.• Feel and fall.• Physical properties.• Color fastness.• Finishing properties• Presentation of the final produced garment.

Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost. The national regulatory quality certification, or international quality programs like ISO 9000, series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry.

In overall, here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:


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What Quality Means for Garments?

Based on all fabric properties requirements, the main defects for garments may be classified and clustered as listed bellow:

STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK


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Main Garments Defects

This can be considered the basic procedure for any kind of garment, and so may cause several types of defects.

Bellow the key elements to be checked :

• Open seams• Stitching Defects (skipped, uneven, staggered,

Improperly)• Needle damage • Thread breaks• Same color garment, but usage of different color

threads• Miss out of stitches in between,• Creasing of the garment• Erroneous thread tension• Raw edges.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:

Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure.

Minimizing Effects:• Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core thread, that

has greater resistance to chemical degradation.• Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is

being cut.• Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain

stitch seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam.

• Use needles with the correct needle point.• Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the

Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:

Special Cares:• It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the

Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.

• To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.

• Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the chemicals in thefabric.

• Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can be achieved.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

SKIPPED STITCHES: Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after the heavy thickness.

Minimizing Effects:• Use core spun thread.• Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.• Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize

flagging.• Training sewing operators NOT to stop on the thickness.• Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.• Make sure the machine is not back feeding.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim:

Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric.

Minimizing Effects:• Use a heavier thread size on topstitching.• Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi).• Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible

so the thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sewn in the warp.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:

Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations.

Minimizing Effects:• Use minimum presser foot pressure• Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques

and not stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.• Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the

stretch of the fabric.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

RAGGED / INCONSISTENT EDGE

Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

Minimizing Effects:• Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and

changed often;• The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the

"stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Restitched Seams

Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Usually caused by thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product(I.e., stone washing)..

Minimizing Effects:• Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a

higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions.

• Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;

• Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation;

• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

UNRAVELING SEAMS:

Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure unless the seam is Re stitched.

Minimizing Effects:• Use a high performance Parma Core or D-Core thread that will

minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches;• Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine

adjustments;• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling

techniques.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

The pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assemble. Any defect on that is very critical, because will compromise all the garment.

Main issues most probable to occur:

• Some parts of pattern are missing, , due for eg marker did not include the correct number of parts.

• Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.

• Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.

• Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

• Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.

• Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out edges.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension. This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying.

Main Common Defects:

• Uneven Spreading: Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of marker not catching all ply.

• Narrow Material: Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width.

• Missed Sectional Breaks: Sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

• Improper Tension: Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.

• Mismatching Plaids: Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.

• Misdirected Napping: Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed in spreading.

• Improper Matching of Face of Material: Not spread face down, face up or face to face as required.

Some critical factors to be checked in order to prevent this defects listed in a quality control inspection are: Ply alignment; Ply tension/slackness; Bowing ; Splicing; Grain-line; Shade variation; Selvedge alignment & tightness; Fabric width; Static electricity down, face up or face to face as required.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Marker markings are used for the purpose of cutting the patterns, and due wrong adjustments or measures, it may cause several types of issues.

Main Common Defects:

• Shaded Parts: All component pans not included in same section.

• Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or pleating.

• Not Marked by Directional Lines: Bias will not lit together, causing twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component parts.

• Skimpy marking: Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.

• Notches and Punch Marks: Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

• Marker Too Wide: Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or requiring results.

• Marker Too Narrow: Results In wasted material.

• Mismatched Plaids Marker did not block component parts to match.

• Misdirected Napping: Patterns not marked in same direction and napped fabrics.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Minimizing Effects: •It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker. •In marker labeling or coding of pattern should be checked •Pattern direction should be checked. •The entire pattern are sated correctly. •Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during marker making. •During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate. •During marker making fabric length and width should be considered. •Marker width •Notches & drill marks •Knife clearance •Checks and stripes (mittering)•Not enough knife clearance freedom.•Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Special Cares:

Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.

When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing.

Failure to follow the marker lines results in distorted garment parts.

Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high aspread.

Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow ,angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Cutting is an important process to produce the garment. Quality full fabric cutting reduce the wastage of material and make the business profitable, but requires special attention to don´t affect the final product quality.

Main Defects:

• Marker or Perforator: Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks.

• Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members: Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

• Drill Marks: Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill used.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

• Opening Slits: Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle or omitted.

• Improper Cutting: Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.

• Notches: Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted. • Oil Spots: Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned. • Improper Knife Sharpening: Causing ragged, frayed or fused

edges on bundles. • Knife or Scissor Cut: Piece damaged by over run in cutting

previous piece.

Key parameter to be checked in a quality inspection in order to prevent a cutting defect: Frayed Edge; Fuzzy Edges; Ply to Play fusion; Single Edge Fusion; Notches and Drillers; Cutting Equipment Precision.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

The type of machines and tools used on the cutting process, may have a key impact on the garment quality. So it is important to consider it, when choose the best strategy for a quality control. Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department:

• Scissor• Straight Knife.• Band Knife• Round Knife• Computerized Knife Cutter.• Computerized Laser Cutter.• Straight Knife (used in 100% cases for bulk cutting directly

from lay cutting)• Drill machine (specially used for position marking on the fabric

that would be cut for making garment)


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

A color problem in the garment can impact directly on the customer satisfaction, considering is the most “visible defect” and sometimes during the manufacturing process is not easily detected.

Difference of the color from a final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces are some of the possible defects.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Poor Colour fastness after Laundry

It is where the thread does not wash down consistently in the garment or changes to a different color altogether.

Minimizing Effects:

• Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.• Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix

threads in agarment.• Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new

colors to assure that they will meet your requirements.• Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color

number


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Thread Discoloration After Laundry: It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a dirty appearance. A common discoloration would be the pick-up of a greenish or turquoise tint.

Minimizing Effects:

• Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.• Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low)

during laundry.• Use the proper chemicals & laundry cycles.• Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive• Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Considering the final stages of the manufacturing process, where all the final details is finished, there still a lot of different problems that may occur.

Some defects in the Overall Look of a Garment:

• Sizing defects: Wrong gradation of sizes or difference in measurement of a garment part from other.

• Broken or Loose parts: buttons, snaps, zipper,• Exposed notches• Misaligned buttons and holes• Dropped stitches• Pulled / loose yarn• Zipper too short


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

Twisted Legs

Is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans.

Minimizing Effects:

• Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator to match the front and back properly so they come out the same length. Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should NOT trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the same length.

• Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly operation.

• Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skewv Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom plies.


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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

As showed there is several kinds of defects in all manufacturing process chain, so to ensure the esthetics, fit and functionality of your garment a full end-to-end quality control is necessary.

The benefits is not limited in the customer satisfaction point of view, but also reducing material waste and production costs. So all effort to ensure the product quality will be valuable and

important for steer the brand recognition, a so critical aspect in terms of the business strategy sustainability.


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Conclusion


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How do we perform inspection for garments

Most of inspection for apparel focus on the workmanship of the item, on the materials used to manufacture the product, on the

sizing etc...

Some of the Solutions AvailableSupplier Audit for garments

•Supplier Evaluation•ISO 9001 Audit•Social Audit

Product Inspection for Apparel

•Product Inspection•Incoming Material Inspection•Initial Product Inspection

•During Production Inspection•Pre-Shipment Inspection •Sorting and Monitoring•Defective Product Sorting•Production Monitoring

Product Testing for clothes

•Purity test for Apparel


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Contact us

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Asia Quality Control Ltd1010 Miramar Tower, 132 TST, Kowloon, Hong

KongTel: +852 58 08 13 16 (9AM-5PM Hong Kong

time)E-mail: [email protected]

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denim garments quality control and inspection services

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