Cultural

Walks

1 &2

Exploring the vanishing

Jewish East End

IntroductionBy Steven Berkoff, still resident in the East End

The East End, as I knew it from thebrief time I spent there after thewar, was a place of constantactivity. In the summer, my streetmates and I would go swimmingby Tower Bridge; tons of sand hadbeen placed on the shore and itbecame the Cockney’s Riviera.After a vigorous swim, it would be

a treat to go to the Lyon’s teashop in Aldgate and availourselves of the goodies to be had there, tomato soup withmashed potatoes being the favourite.

Naturally Sunday morning in the ‘Lane’ was a must and aplace to haggle with stamp collectors, since I was an avidphilatelist in those days. Weeknights were spent at the Oxfordand St. George’s Boys Club in Berner Street, where I acquiredhigh skills in ‘ping pong’, the working man’s tennis. Rainydays were spent in Betts Street Baths where my enthusiasm toswim up and down endlessly was rewarded with a ‘mile’certificate. I can remember to this day the Bath Managergiving me half a crown from his meagre wages to crown myefforts. Mum and I would frequently go to the PalaseumPicture House at the top of our street to watch the double bill,taking with us a pile of sandwiches and a bottle of Tizer to getus through the three-hour programme. Hebrew classes at thelarge synagogue in Brick Lane were less memorable, butendurable if afterwards I was to pick up some fish and chipsfrom the shop opposite Aunty Betty’s in Cannon Street Road.Next door to us in 25 Anthony Street lived a young girl calledSadie who mysteriously used to dress up like an adult andwear makeup on certain evenings. I then learnt that she wasplaying the Grand Palais, the one remaining theatre at thattime performing plays in Yiddish.

Uncle Henry’s barber shop was around the corner and oncewas enough for me since his clippers used to really pinch andhad me in tears. Mum took me to the ‘Poplar’ cinema afterfinishing school at Raines in Arbour Square. I disliked theschool intensely since corporal punishment was meted out fortrivial offences like being unusually active or whispering inclass, so I was very glad to leave. As I grew older I would hangout with all the other Jewish youth at Johnny Issac’s Fish andChip Shop which was the Sunday night ‘hang out’. ‘TheWaste’, as it was called, along Whitechapel, was another place

of adventure and I worked there for a while for a man whocalled himself the ‘Pen King’. I worked for him occasionalSaturdays and I believe it was here that I first got my taste foracting. Eventually our family was re-housed to a council flat inManor House, N4. But for years I would take the No. 653 busback to the East End. I somehow found it hard to get away.

© Steven Berkoff 2003

Aldgate to Whitechapel LibraryArtists, Cigarmakers and Markets

Walk 1

The walk commences outside the church of (1) St.Botolph’s, Aldgate in the ward of Portsoken in the City ofLondon, a ward that is regarded very much as being part ofthe Jewish East End. Portsoken has had a centuries oldassociation with the Jewish community. Portsoken is that partof the City which fell outside the City walls but within the authority of the Cityitself. Ever since the Jews returned in 1656, they have settled in this area of the City. Almost all the Alderman of the ward since the 1840s have been Jewish and the present Alderman is Michael Bear.

Situated within the ward is one of the oldest and most beautiful synagogues in England. Bevis Marks was built in 1701 by the Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal. The great Cathedral Synagogue of Anglo-Jewry, built by the Ashkenazi community in the 18th century, the Dukes Place Synagogue was also close by. Other famous institutions of theJewish community were also in this ward such as

Starting point St. Botolph’s, Aldgate

Finishing point Whitechapel Library

Estimate time 2.25 hours

the Jewish Chronicle. Founded in 1841, it is the oldest Jewishweekly English language journal in the world. St. Botolph’s,the 18th century church, has had close links with the Jewishcommunity. The bells were donated in 1961 by the then LordMayor, Sir Bernard Waley-Cohen. Outside the church is adrinking fountain erected on the church railings to honour thememory of Frederick Mocatta, the 19th century Jewishphilanthropist who helped Jews and non-Jews alike.

Walk eastwards along Aldgate High Street into the subwayand emerge at the Middlesex Street exit. Middlesex Street isbetter known by its former name Petticoat Lane, the name ofthe famous market which still exists, but which used to bealmost entirely Jewish. As now, it used to sell almost everyproduct imaginable including clothing and food and thetraders were known for their colourful banter. Walk upMiddlesex Street and turn right into Cobb Street walkingtowards Bell Lane. At Leyden Street look right and you will seedilapidated public toilets where the Jewish traders used tomeet to put the world to rights. The toilets were known as the(2) Parliament of Petticoat Lane. When you get to BellLane turn left then go on until you reach Brune Street whereyou turn right. Walk a few yards until you see an attractivebuilding on your left with a terracotta façade, the former (3)Jewish soup kitchen for the Poor. Designed by the well-known Jewish architect Lewis Solomon in 1902, it was one ofthe many soup kitchens founded by wealthy West End Jews toalleviate poverty among the poor Jews in the area. It is now anexpensive apartment block. Retrace your footsteps to Bell Laneand look up to your right at a rather modern office block (39Bell Lane), the site of the greatest Jewish educational

establishment in the East End.(4) The Jews Free Schoolwas founded in the 19thcentury. At one stage it wasregarded as the largest schoolin the world and its formerpupils include Bud Flanagan,the diamond millionaire,Barney Barnato and Joe Lossthe great bandleader. It wasbombed in the Second WorldWar when it closed and movedto Camden.

Walk north up Bell Lane andtake the first left into StewardsLane and continue alongArtillery Passage. Turn right upSandy’s Row and stop outsidethe synagogue, which is onthe right hand side. (5) TheSandy’s Row Synagogue isone of the four synagoguesstill active in the East End(There used to be 150.) This former Huguenot chapel wasconverted into a synagogue in 1870 for the Jews of Dutchdescent. The Dutch Jews controlled the cigar and diamondcutting industries in London at that time.

Walk up Sandy’s Row, cross over to Fort Street, heading northalong the paved footpath past Spitalfields Market, with a glassoffice block on your left. Spitalfields used to employ a largenumber of Jewish workers. Go up to Folgate Street and turnright and then left into Elder Street.

At (6) Number 32 Elder Street you will seea blue plaque to Mark Gertler, arguably themost famous artist to have emerged fromthe ghetto. If you look at the coal holecover on the pavement beneath the blueplaque, you will see a representationfrom his most famous painting “TheMerry Go Round”, a powerful indictmentof war. He committed suicide in 1939.

Retrace your steps to Folgate Street and turn left towardsCommercial Street. Turn right onto Commercial Street andthen left into Hanbury Street. On your right at (7) Number12 Hanbury Street is a blue plaque to Bud Flanagan (bornReuben Weintrop), a member of the Crazy Gang, whose most

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famous song was ‘Underneaththe Arches’. Go along HanburyStreet and then turn right atWilkes Street and then left intoPrincelet Street. At (8) Number6 Princelet Street you will seea coal hole cover with a viola onit, marking the spot of the firstpurpose-built Yiddish theatre inLondon – The Hebrew DramaticClub. It was founded in 1886 byDavid Smith, a kosher butcher,but in 1887, 17 people diedwhen someone wronglyshouted, “fire” and the audiencestampeded for the exit. It closedshortly afterwards.

At 19 Princelet Street you willsee the former (9) PrinceletStreet Synagogue, whichclosed down in the 1970s. Thefront of the building is a formerHuguenot house built in 1722,

but at the rear is asynagogue, built in 1862.The building has becomeworld famous as thesetting of the book,Rodinsky’s Room, byRachel Lichtenstein andIain Sinclair.

Go towards Brick Lane andthen turn right. As youwalk down this busythoroughfare look to your

left at the last Jewish business in Brick Lane, (10) Katz, whichused to sell nothing but string. On your right on the corner ofBrick Lane and Fournier Street you will see the (11) BrickLane Mosque. This building is symbolic of the variousimmigrant groups who have settled in the area. It was built inthe 18th century by the Huguenots and occupied for a whileby the Methodists. It became a synagogue in the 19th centuryand closed in the 1950s to become a mosque. Almost overthe road in Brick Lane is the site of the former steam baths,the Schewik, that was much used by the Jewish community.The interior is the subject of a famous painting by DavidBomberg called The Mud Bath. Bomberg was another greatpainter to have emerged from the ghetto.

Before the SecondWorld War therewere over 150synagogues in theEast End and nowthere are onlyfour, all of whichare at risk.di

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Go south down Brick Lane and turn right into (12) FashionStreet. Israel Zangwill mentions the street in the opening ofthe book Children of the Ghetto. The famous playwright ArnoldWesker also lived in the street and his semi-autobiographicalplay Chicken Soup with Barley is set there. Walk to end ofFashion Street and notice how a once shabby street is beinggentrified.

At Commercial Street turn left and walk on a while. Over theroad at (13) Number 44-45 Commercial Street is abuilding, which was the Jewish and East End Model Lodgings,which used to house 30 families. (14) Number 43aCommercial Street is the building which used to house theJews Free School’s infant section attended by Arnold Wesker.

Go down Commercial Street until you come to (15) ToynbeeHall on your left. This institution was founded in 1883 bylocal vicar Canon Samuel Barnett and his formidable wifeDame Henrietta Barnett. They encouraged Oxbridgegraduates to settle in the area and work with the poor atToynbee Hall. Toynbee Hall was a great centre for the Jewishpopulation where they obtained legal advice and Englishlessons. The facility is now available for Bangladeshis living inthe area.

Go north through thecomplex and emerge atWentworth Street whereyou turn right.Immediately on your leftyou will see the (16)Rothschild Archwaywith the words ‘4%Dwellings Company’written on it. This arch isall that remains of theRothschild Building built toalleviate the housingshortage among poorJews. The Rothschild familyformed the company andwealthy Jewish investorswere guaranteed a 4%return on their money,hence the name.

Walk along WentworthStreet and turn right intoGunthorpe Street andalong to Whitechapel High

Street. As you go under thearch look left above the shop(17) Albert’s and you willsee an emblem containingthe Star of David. This is theemblem of the now defunctJewish Daily News. Theemblem is by Arthur Szyk inthe Arts and Crafts Style.

Proceed eastwards alongWhitechapel High Street toview the last two buildingson our walk. (18) TheWhitechapel Art Galleryand Whitechapel Library.Both were founded at thebehest of Canon Barnett andhis wife Henrietta Barnett,who felt it was important

that Jewish immigrants should also have access to culturalcentres. The gallery designed by Charles Harrison Townsend inthe Arts and Crafts Style held exhibitions by Jewish artists fromthe East End such as Bomberg, Gertler and Kramer. The blankspace above the entrance was supposed to contain a mural“The Sphere of Message and Art” by the Victorian artist WalterCrane, but the finances were not forthcoming. The library wasused by the Jewish community to escape the poverty andovercrowding oftheir tenements andbecame known asthe ‘University ofthe Ghetto’. Amongthe famous personswho used thelibrary on a regularbasis were the poetand artist IsaacRosenberg (his blueplaque is on thebuilding), the writer JacobBronowski and theplaywrights Arnold Weskerand Bernard Kops. Thebuilding designed by PottsSons and Hemmings in theArts and Crafts style, hasnow closed as a library andhas been sold to the ArtGallery.

Historiansestimate thatthere were some120,000 Jews inthe Borough ofStepney in1910.di

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This walk commences at the corner of Whitechapel High Streetand Commercial Street next to Aldgate East tube station (onthe north side of the street). Look across to the rather drearybuilding in brown brick belonging to Lloyds TSB. On this siteuntil the 1960s stood a beautiful department store called (1)Gardiners, the ‘Harrods of the East’. On 4 October 1936this site was involved in one of the most important politicalevents in the history of the Jewish East End - the Battle of CableStreet. The leader of the British Union of Fascists, Sir OswaldMosley had planned to invade the East End with his blackshirtsto intimidate the Jews. Mosley was stopped at Royal MintStreet by the police and the Battle of Cable Street actually tookplace between the anti-fascist demonstrators (mainly Jewish)and the police.

Walk eastwards downWhitechapel High Street andjust before the KentuckyFried Chicken go up a dirtylittle alley called Angel Alley.At the end of the alley is abook shop called the (2)Freedom Book Shop,which stocks a great deal ofleft wing and anarchistliterature reflecting thepolitical history of the area.On the wall of the alley is amural containing theportraits of prominentanarchists. The mostimportant for the purposes ofour walk are Prince PeterKropotkin and Rudolf Rocker.

Go back to the High Streetand head eastwards alongWhitechapel Road past

Walk 2

Aldgate East to Stepney GreenRabbis, Radicals and the Yiddish Theatre

Starting point Aldgate East Station

Finishing point Stepney Green Station

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Whitechapel Art Gallery and Whitechapel Library (discussed inwalk 1). Stop opposite a green space (Altab Ali Park) and lookacross to a modern brick building in Adler Street. The buildingpreviously on this site, for a brief period, housed the (3)Jewish National Theatre, which put on plays in Yiddish,virtually the lingua franca of the area for many years. The mostfamous play in Yiddish performed at this theatre wasShakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice starring the legend ofthe Yiddish Theatre Meier Tzelniker as Shylock.

Proceeding along the north side of Whitechapel Road, stop atthe modern building housing Habibsons Bank. This was, untilrelatively recently, the site of Black Lion Yard the so-called (4)‘Hatton Garden of the East End’, because it containedsome 18 jewellery shops. Women who bought theirengagement rings there probably had their weddingphotographs taken at the shop over the road (number 14 –the Victorian building with the Art Deco frontage) where thelegendary photographer Boris Bennet (trading as ‘Boris’)specialised in wedding photographs of an extremely highstandard.

Go on a few yards, cross the road at the traffic lights and turnright into Fieldgate Street. Follow this street round to the leftuntil you come to the (5) Fieldgate Street Synagogue,one of the few active synagogues left in the area. It is nowdwarfed by one of the largest mosques in Britain and willshortly be almost totally surrounded by the Islamic Centre,which is now being constructed. It is a typical small “stiebel”built in 1899 and rebuilt after bombing in the Second WorldWar. To the left of the Synagogue, notice a plaque on the wallcommemorating the founding of the Jewish bakeryGrodzinskis in 1888.

Go on for about 200 yards and you will see a decaying formerdoss house called (6) Tower House or Rowton House nowan expensive block of flats. In 1907 Joseph Stalin and MaximMaximovitch Litvinov (a Jew who was subsequently to becomeStalin’s Commissar of Foreign Affairs) lived in this doss housepaying sixpence a night, whilst attending the 5th conference

of the RussianSocial LabourDemocratic Party.It has also been atemporary hometo numerousotherimpoverishedanarchists whocame to London.

Walk until you get to New Road andturn left and walk till you get to thetraffic lights on Whitechapel Road.Look across to the bill boards to theright of the Andrew Sketchley Theatreand you will see the site of the mostfamous of all the Yiddish Theatres(7) The Pavilion, which closed in 1936 and wasdemolished in the 1960s. It had been a great Victorian theatredoing melodramas and pantomime but in 1906 it became anexclusively Yiddish theatre.

Anna TzelnikerThe sole surviving Yiddishactress who starred inmany of the great Yiddishproductions.Photographed here asPortia in The Merchant ofVenice in 1946, she said,

“There used to be fourgreat Yiddish theatres inthe Aldgate area of theEast End, The Pavilion,

Feinmans, The Jewish National Theatre and the GrandPalais, the last one surviving until 1961. Jewishimmigrants needed the Yiddish theatre for their souls, justas they needed bread to eat. Many of the plots weremelodramatic, but the poor immigrants saw the plays asan escape from their drabsurroundings. Once the immigrantsbecame proficient in English, theYiddish Theatre began to die.”

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Walk eastwards along Whitechapel Road until you get to the(8) Royal London Hospital. This institution was founded in1750 and has always had close links with the Jewishcommunity. The Sophia, Talbot and Raphael wards catered forOrthodox Jews and kosher food was provided. The hospitalalso received substantial support from wealthy Jewishbusinessmen including the Rothschilds, Samuel Lewis, BasilHenriques and Samuel Montagu. Over the road from thehospital you will see a monument to Edward VII erected in hishonour (in 1911) by the Jewish community of the area. It is bythe famous sculptor W.S. Frith and is crowned by a wingedangel. It contains a medallion portrait of the King.

Continue walking along Whitechapel Road and turn right intoSidney Street, keeping to your right. Stop at the gates,opposite Elrich Cottages, next to an ugly brown building andlook up the street to a block of flats with blue balconies. Onthis site there stood at (9) Number 100 Sidney Street ahouse in a terrace (which has long disappeared) which wasthe scene of the most notorious siege in London’s history. InJanuary 1911, two Jewish immigrant anarchists, who werewanted for several murders, were discovered hiding in thishouse. The police arrived but realised they could not deal withsuch desperadoes. Troops were summoned from the Tower ofLondon and eventually the house caught fire and the bodiesof two anarchists were found inside. One of the great mythsof the East End arose here as it was suspected that PeterPiatkov, (also known as Peter the Painter, a famous anarchist)had been in the house but had escaped. Nothing has everbeen proved. Several films have been made about the siegeincluding two by Alfred Hitchcock. The irrepressible HomeSecretary of the time, Winston Churchill, insisted on beingpresent throughout the siege.

Turn left into LindleyStreet and walk as far asJubilee Street. On thesouth west corner of thejunction of the two streetsthere used to stand the(10) Workers’ FriendsClub and Institutefounded in 1906 by anon-Jewish Germanimmigrant, RudolphRocker. He learnedYiddish, organised theJewish workers into unionsand staged the 1912Tailors’ Strike, which led

to improved working conditionsfor workers in the notorioussweatshops.

Turn left into Jubilee Street andgo through O’Leary Square. Stopat (11) Rinkoffs for a beigel ora slice of delicious cheesecake atthe last traditional Jewish baker left in the East End. Go onthrough O’Leary Square and onto Mile End Road. The greenspace on the other side of the road known as (12) ‘TheWaste’ is where many political demonstrations took place.Theodor Herzl, the father of Zionism, addressed a meetingthere in 1898 and during the Tailors’ Strike in 1912 the tailorsmet there. In 1916 the so-called Schneiders Battalion(composed of Jewish tailors) was formed there.

Go east along Mile End Road passing the Genesis Cinema onyour left. At one stage this was known as the (13) ParagonTheatre of Varieties and among the people who performedthere was the young Charlie Chaplin (he billed himself as the‘Hebrew’ comic) and the young Barnet Winogradsky (laterLord Delfont). Keep walking and turn right into StepneyGreen. You will come to a Victorian block of flats called (14)Dunstan Dwellings where Rudolph Rocker lived at no.33 inwhat was virtually an anarchist commune.

Go on and come to the (15) Leonard MontefioreDrinking Fountain next to a clock tower. This dilapidatedfountain was erected in the 19th century in memory ofLeonard Montefiore, whose family was one of the greatphilanthropic families in the East End. Go on and cross at thenext zebra crossing. Turn left immediately and walk for about

There is onlyone Jewishbakery left inthe East End.Rinkoffs inO’LearySquare.di

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50 yards until you come to some small black railings on yourright. Turn right into the grassed area and walk up to theblack gates at the rear. This is the former (16) East LondonSynagogue, built in the 1870s, but converted into flats fairlyrecently. Designed by the Jewish architect Barrow Emmanuel,it was the only synagogue in the East End planned as a greatCathedral Synagogue. It had a beautiful Byzantine interior,and magnificent furniture, most of which has disappeared.Retrace your steps. Turn right at the black railings and followthe narrow road to the right of the small park ahead of youalong Stepney Green. Go past Stepney Green Court (formerlyStepney Dwellings) one of the so-called Rothschilds 4%dwellings. The Rothschilds raised the money from wealthyJewish businessmen, and guaranteed them a 4% return ontheir money. Famous former residents of this block includedBernard Kops (author of The Hamlet of Stepney Green) andLord Delfont.

Continue on past the (17) Stepney Green Jewish School,which has now moved to Ilford. Step back and admire thecartouche with the name of the school inscribed in thepediment of the building. Continue on past the RosalindGreen Hall, which used to be the (18) Orthodox

Synagogue on theGreen. Walk past thesite of the StepneyGreen Jewish Hospitalwhere there is now amodern block of flats.

Finally, pause outsideone of the mostbeautiful houses inthe East End (19)Number 37Stepney Green.From about 1870until 1913 it was ahome for elderlyJews, but nowrestored as a familyhome.

Finish the walk bycontinuing on downStepney Green andturning right ontoMile End Roadtowards StepneyGreen Station.

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1 Gardiners2 Freedom Book Shop3 Jewish National Theatre4 ‘Hatton Garden of the

East End’5 Fieldgate Street Synagogue6 Tower House 7 The Pavilion8 Royal London Hospital9 100 Sidney Street10Workers Friends Club and

Institute

11 Rinkoffs12 The ‘Waste’13 Paragon Theatre of

Varieties14 Dunstan Dwellings15 Leonard Montefiore

Drinking Fountain16 East London Synagogue17 Stepney Green Jewish

School18 Orthodox Synagogue19 37 Stepney Green

1 St. Botolph’s, Aldgate2 Parliament of Petticoat Lane3 Jewish soup kitchen for the

Poor4 The Jews Free School5 The Sandy’s Row

Synagogue6 32 Elder Street7 12 Hanbury Street8 6 Princelet Street9 Princelet Street Synagogue

10 Katz11 Brick Lane Mosque12 Fashion Street13 44-45 Commercial Street14 43a Commercial Street15 Toynbee Hall16 Rothschild Archway17 Alberts18 The Whitechapel Art

Gallery and theWhitechapel Library

Walk 2

Walk 1 Walk 1 Aldgate to Whitechapel Library

Walk 2 Aldgate East to Stepney Green

Timeline1066 Arrival of King William I (‘the

Conqueror’) with his ‘personal’Jews from Rouen.

1190 Massacre of Jews in York

1290 Expulsion of the Jews fromEngland by King Edward I.

1656 Return of the Jews to Englandafter negotiations betweenOliver Cromwell and MenassehBen Israel.

1753 Passing of the JewishNaturalization Bill.

1855 Sir David Salomons becomesfirst Jewish Lord Mayor ofLondon.

1858 Baron Lionel de Rothschildbecomes the first practisingJew to take his seat in theHouse of Commons.

1868 Benjamin Disraeli becomes firstJewish-born Prime Minister ofEngland.

1881 Assassination of TzarAlexander II of Russia leads toprogroms against Jews inEastern Europe.

1905/6 Russo-Japanese War results ina large migration of EastEuropean Jews to the West.

1907 Aliens Act seeking to restrictthe number of Jews enteringEngland.

1936 Battle of Cable Street. SirOswald Mosley and the BritishUnion of Fascists attempt toinvade the Jewish East End.

1939-1945 Destruction of a great deal ofthe East End results in a largenumber of Jews in the East Endleaving for Essex and NorthLondon.

Further informationThe AuthorThis booklet was compiled by Clive Bettington a lawyer and tourguide. In March 2003 Clive founded the Jewish East EndCelebration Society (JEECS) in order to save the fast disappearingheritage of the Jewish East End. JEECS works to preserve theremaining Jewish buildings of the Jewish East End and encouragethe academic study of all aspects of the history of the area. If youwant to know more about JEECS, please email Clive atc.bettington@jeecs.org.uk or visit www.jeecs.org.uk

To find out moreThe Jewish Genealogical Society of Great Britain33 Seymour Place, London W1H 5AUTel: 020 7724 4232

London's Jewish Museum will re-open in 2009 in Camden.For details of events and exhibitions about Jewish history andculture, visit www.jewishmuseum.org.uk

For more information on things to do in Tower Hamlets visitwww.towerhamlets.gov.uk/data/discover

The four remaining activesynagogues in the East End:

Congregation of JacobSynagogue (1903 –Kehillas Ya’akov)351-353 Commercial RoadLondon E1 2PSTel: 020 7790 2874

East London CentralSynagogue (1922)30-40 Nelson StreetLondon E1 2DETel: 020 7790 9809

Fieldgate Street GreatSynagogue (1899)Fieldgate StreetLondon E1 1JUTel: 020 72472644

Sandy’s Row Synagogue(1766)4a Sandy’s RowLondon E1 7HWTel: 020 7253 8311

East End Synagogues

While every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of theinformation in this guide, Tower Hamlets Council cannot acceptresponsibility for any errors, omissions or subsequent alterations.

A large print version of this leaflet is available by contacting 020 7364 4958 or visiting www.towerhamlets.gov.uk

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