cowies bookbinders manual 1860
TRANSCRIPT
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COWIE'S
BOOKBINDER'S
MANUAL:
CONTAINING
A
FULL
DESCRIPTION
OF
LEATHER
AND
VELLUM
BINDING;
DIRECTIONS
FOR
GILDING
OF
PAPER
AND
BOOK
EDGES,
AND
NUMEROUS
VALUABLE
RECIPES
FOR
SPRINKLING,
COLOURING,
&
MARBLING;
TOGETHER
WITH
A
SCALE
OF
BOOKBINDERS' CHARGES
A
LIST
OF
ALL
THE
BOOK
AND
VELLUM
BINDERS IN
LONDON,
&c. &c.
bevi:ntii and
neav
edition.
LONDON
J.
ALLEN,
20,
WARWICK LANE,
PAXERXOSTEU ROW.
Price
-Is.
Gd.
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G.
COWIE,
PRINTKR,
2,
TJ
O
R
T
H
A M
1'
T
O
K
ROAD,
CLERK
EN
WELL.
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NOTICE
FROM
THE
PROPRIETOR.
^^^^.^
In
presenting
to
the
Public this
new
edition of
the
Bookbinder's
Manual, the
Proprietor
begs
to
state,
that the
whole
has been
carefully
examined,
extended,
improved,
and
carried
through
the
Press,
by
an
experienced
practical
Binder,
whose
constant
occupation, for a
series
of
years,
in all
the branches
here
described,
has,
per-
haps, rendered him
the
most
competant
person
to
define,
in
a
systematic
and
per-
spicuous
manner,
the
various matters
con-
nected with his calling. The
work
has
already
run
through
several
editions,
and
is consequently
so
well
known and appre-
ciated, that but
little
need
be
urged
in its
favour.
It
may, however,
be noticed,
iJiat
whatever of
novelty,
in
this
im-
proving
age,
in the
art
of
Binding,
has
appeared
worthy
of
insertion, has
been
carefully
collated and
appended.
On
mature
consideration,
it has
been
thought
advisable
to preserve
the
general features
of the earlier
editions,
and even
to
retain
the
original
Preface,
inasmuch
as
the
former
apparently
admits
of
no
improve-
ment,
and the
latter
leads to
identity.
With
these
few
prefatory
remarks,
the
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IV
NOTICE
FROM
THE PROPRIETOR.
Proprietor
feels
the
fullest
confidence
in
announcing
this
(the
seventh)
Edition
as
surpassing
its
predecessors in
extended
in-
formation,
and
as
justly claiming
from
the
practical Binder, the Amateur,
and
the
Public
at
large,
the
fullest
patronage.
A
great
omission
in
the
early
editions
has
been
supplied
in
this,
with
consider-
able
care and
accuracy
—
viz.
A
List of
all the Master Bookbinders in
London,
a
grand desideratum
to
the country,
as
well
as
to
the
metropolitan,
workman
:
also, a List
of
such
Principal
Firms
as
supply
Articles
especially
required
by the
Binder.
To
the present edition have
also
been
added various
matters in
a tabular
form,
embracing
—
viz.
Charges
to
the
Public and
to the
Trade
;
a
Scale of
the
various
Mill
Boards;
Cost
of
Machine
Rolling
;
Pay
for
Folding
and
Sewing
also. Average
Prices
for
the
General
Arti-
cles
used
by
the
Binder.
Any
additional information
pertaining
to
this
work,
either
in
the shape
of
a new
discovery,
or
change
of
residence
of
the
Masters,
or
of
any
of
the
Firms
supphdng
the
Trade,
forwarded
to
the
Proprietor,
will
be
punctually attended to,
and
appear in
the
unsold copies
in
the
form
of
Addenda.
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(v)
PREFACE.
In presenting
to
the Public the
Book-
bindek's
Manual, the author
considers
that he
has supplied a
valuable
deside-
ratum.
It
is not,
however,
to be
supposed
that the
experienced Binder
will
require
the
directions
here
given
;
though
even
he
will
find some
portions
of
the
work,
and
all
of
its
Recipes,
of infinite
value
but
there are many
connected
with the
art
whose
knowledge
is
but
superficial:
to
these,
its pages
may
be considered
highly
important,
as
forming
a
regular
system,
and
containing
all
that is really
essential to
enable
them
to
execute
their
work
with
neatness
and
elegance.
It
was
suggested,
that
a
scale
of
Charges
TO
THE
Public
would
be
of
much
utility
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VI PREFACE.
to the
Binder
:
this
has
accordingly
been
arranged,
and may be
referred
to
with
safety
:
it
is
formed
from
experience,
and
on the
fairest
principles,
and
must
always
be
considered
a
handy
reference
for those
less
experienced
in
the
art.
iVs it has
been the object
of
the author
to
convey his instructions in
plain
and
perspicuous
language, and
to
describe
the
process
as
minutely
as
possible, it is
hoped
the
reader
will look
more
for
matter
of
interest
than
elegance
of
diction.
In
submitting
his
work
to
the
Public, the
author
trusts
it
will
especially
meet
with
the
candour
and
approbation
of those
for
whose
instruction
and
improvement
it has
been
written.
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(
vii
)
II^TRODUCTION.
Previous
to
entering
into
a
description
of
the art of
Binding, it may
not
be
uninteresting
to
throw
together
the
few historical
particulars
which
have
been
collected
on
the
subject.
When
the
art was
first
invented,
it is impos-
sible
to
ascertain.
Philatius,
a
learned
Athe-
nian,
was
the
first
who
pointed out
the
use
of
a
particular
glue
for fastening the leaves
of
a
book
together
—
an invention which his
coun-
trymen
thought
of such
importance, that
they
erected a
statue
to
his
memory. The most
ancient
mode of
binding
consisted
in
glueing
the
different
leaves together,
and
attaching
them
to
cylinders
of
wood, round
which they
were
rolled: this
is called
Egyptian
binding,
and
continued
to
be
practised long after the
age
of
Augustus.
This
method
is still in use
in oriental
countries,
and
Jewish
synagogues,
where
they
continue
even
to
this
day
to
write
books
of
the
law
on
slips
of
vellum
sewed toge-
ther,
so as
to
form
one
long
page, on
each
extremity
of which, is
a
roller, furnished with
clasps
of gold
or
silver.
The invention
of
the
square
form
of
binding, which
Is now
uniforndy
practised
in
Europe,
is
attributed to
one
of
the
kings
of
Pergamus, to
whom
also
we
owe
the
invention
of
parchment.
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Vlll
INTRODUCTION.
A visit
to
the
Library
of the Britiali
Museum
would
afford
the
highest
gratification
to
every
binder
at
all curious in his
art:
he
wiH
there
see
the
most
costly and
superb
specimens of
former
days
—
covers
adorned
with
gold,
with
silver,
and
with precious
stones, combined
with the
most
chaste
and
costly designs,
and
a
display
of
labour
and
elegance
equalling,
if
not
surpassing,
any
similar
productions
of
the
pre-
sent
day.
The moderns, nevertheless,
excel in
neatness,
variety
of pattern,
and
in
ornamental
edges,
and
have latterly displayed
considerable
talent
in
expensive
and variegated
bindings.
Beautiful specimens,
indeed,
of the
art
may
be
seen
in the
shops
of
the
various
respectable
booksellers
of the metropolis. The
covering
of
boarded
books
has
also
become surprisingly
tasty
:
some
years
ago they
were invariably
covered
with
blue paper : a
paper-maker,
how-
ever,
eventually
obtained
a
patent
for
the
manu-
facture
of
paper coloured in
the
pulp, which
was
so
much
admired
by
the public,
that its
use for
the same purpose soon became
adopted
through-
out
the
trade, and
is
now
brought into
general
consumption.
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THE
BOOKBINDER'S
MANUAL.
FORWARDING.
After the
Binder
has
received the
work,
and
ascertained
whether
it is
to be
boarded
or
bound,
he commences wdth
FOLDING.*
The beauty
of
the
book
greatly
depends
on
this
part
of
forwarding
;
for
unless the
sheets be
folded
perfectly even,
it is
im-
possible the
margin
of
the book, when
cut,
can
be
uniform
in
the
different
pages.
We must not omit
to
observe,
that
Num-
ber publications
must
invariably be
le-
folded;
and
if there are plates attached.
*
This is usually performed
by
females.
For
Scale of Charges,
vide
Appendix.
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10 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
they should for the present be
left
out.
There
is
no
great difficulty in folding
the
sheets
with
accurac)^, if care
be
taken to
place the
folio of the
one
page
on
the
folio
of
the
other:
it
should
also
be seen
that
the foot
of each
page exactly
corre-
spond,
which
may
be
done
with
merely
a glance
of
the
eye.
It is
almost
need-
less
to
observe,
that
the signature should
be
always
kept uppermost. In fact, fold-
ing
is
so
remarkably
simple,
that
no
fur-
ther
mention
of
it
is
necessary
:
we
shall
therefore proceed
to
the
next process,
which
is
that
of
BEATING.*
Previous
to
describing
this,
it
may
be
observed,
that
the
introduction
of ma-
chinery
within these
few years
has proved
exceedingly
prejudicial
to
good
binding;
for,
generally
speaking,
works
struck
off
by
these
machines,
will not stand suffi-
cient
beating
to
bring
the books
to
that
solidity
which good binding requires
:
in-
*
Beating
is
now
generally superseded
by
a
comparatively
new
invention,
termed
the
Rolling
Press.
Vide
Ai'pendix.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
11
deed
this
kind of printing,
and Number
publications
in
general,
will
take
little
more
than a
good
pressing,
which, in
fact, is always sufficient for such works
as
have
been
hot-pressed
: the
same
may
also
be
observed
of boarded
books, which
should
never
be
more
than
firmly
pressed previous to
sewing.
But such
books
as
are intended
for
the
process
of
beating,
require
a large
stone,
with a
smooth surface,
and
a
hammer
(somewhat
in
the
shape
of
a
bell),
weighing
from
twelve
to
fourteen pounds;
having
these
in
readiness, the
books
are
beat
in the
following
manner
:
About
a
dozen
sheets
(or
sections)
are
held at a
time
between,
and
near,
the
ends
of
the
fingers
and
thumb
of
the
left hand, while with
the right
hand
the
hammer
is
raised
about
a foot, and
must
fall
with rather
more
than
its own
weight
on
the
edges
of
the
sections,
which
should
be continually
moved
round,
turned
over,
and changed,
in
order
that
they
may
be
equally beat.
During
this
process,
the
sections should
be
occasion-
ally
examined,
to
ascertain
whether
they
have
set
off; if
such
be the case,
further
beating
must
be discontinued.
If
the
work
have
cuts, a leaf of
tissue paper
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12
cowik's
bookbinder's
manual.
should be placed
between these
and
the
letter-press.
The
plates
of
extra
books
should
never
be beat
;
and
cold-pressed
and
recently printed
works
should
be
beat
only
once
round
the
folds
on each
side;
if
the
latter
be extra
work,
and
more
beating
be
really
necessaiy,
the
fore-edge must be
cut
open,
and
a piece
of
tissue paper
placed
between
each
page.
The work is next
to
be collated,
and the
plates
(if
any)
to
be placed
in
their
respective places
;
it
is
then
to
be
taken
to
the
standing-press,
and
divided
into
an equal number
of sections;
these
are
placed
in different
directions
in
the
press,
in order
that
they
may have
an
equal
pressing;
but
if
there
are
several
books
of
the same
thickness,
they
will
require
no
division,
as
each
book can
then be
arranged
in
the same way
as if
divided
into
sections
:
the
press
should
be
screwed
down
as
tight
as possible,
and
after
the
book has
remained
in it a
proper
time,
it
should be taken
out;
when,
if
there
are plates
to
it, they
should be
pasted
in,
agreeably
to
the di-
rections
usually
accompanying
the
work.
If
the
book
have
in-sets,
and
these
have
more
margin
at
the
head
than the
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
13
remainder
of the
sheet,
the extra
portion
should
now
be
cut
off
with
the
shears,
other-
wise
the heads
will
not
knock
up straight.
The
sections
must
be
again
examined,
to
see
that
they follow each
other,
agreeably
to
the
signatures: the
waste leaves
are
then
to
be
added
at
the
beo-inning'
and
end
;
the
book is next
placed
between the
knuckles
of
the
thumbs
and ends of
the
fingers,
and
in
this
position
the head
is
knocked
on
a level surface,
to
bring
the
sections
straight
with
each
other.
The
back
is
next
levelled in
the
same
way;
after
which,
one
side
of the
book
is
laid
on a pressing-board, the
size
of
the
book
itself,
beyond which
the back
must
project
about an
inch
;
and
on the
uppermost
side
another
pressing-board
must be laid,
cor-
responding in
position and
size with
the
one
beneath.
The
two
boards
must
now
be tightly
nipt
with
the
left
hand,
and
the
book carefully
loAvered
in the
press,
when,
being
screwed tight,
it is
ready for
SAWING
THE BACKS.
For
this
purpose
a tenant
saw is
used,
and
the marks
should
be made deep enough
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14
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
to
allow the
cord*
to
fall
in
level with the
back.
It
is
usual
first
to
make
a
saw-
mark at
the
head
and
foot
of
the
book,
for what
are
termed
the
ketch-stitches^
and
from
these the distances
of the
other
saw-
marks are
measured.
For
twelves,
the
saw marks
should
be
about
an
inch
from
the
head, and about an inch
and a
half
from the
foot
;
but for
octavos
the
distance
should
be
greater,
and
for quartos
and
folios
it
still
increases.
We
shall
here
state
the
number
of
bands
the
different
sized
works
should
be sewn on,
which, of
course,
is
a
guide
for
sawing
the
back,
independent
of
the
mark
for the ketch-
stitch: o2mo, common,
two
bands:
if
extra,
three
bands;
half-sheet
18mo,
four
bands, wide
in
the middle;
half-sheet
12mo, 8vo,
and
two-leave 4to,
four
bands,
wide
in
the middle; whole
sheet
1
2mo,
common,
three bands
; 8vo,
extra,
four
bands, equal distance
;
royal
8vo
five
bands, equal distance; whole sheet
4to,
*
For
twelves
it
should
be
rather
thicker
than
twine,
foi
octavos
still
thicker, and
for
quartos and
folios the size
increases.
If the
work
be
in
half-
sheets,
the
cord should
be
thinner
than
for
whole
sheets.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
15
five
bands;
folio, five,
six,
and
seven
bands.
The
saw-marks
being
thus made, they
should
be
opened
by
working the
folding-
stick
backwards
and forwards
through
them
;
the
book
is then ready
for
SEWING. ^
The
bands
are
now
arranged in
the
sewing-press,
agreeably
to
the saw-marks
(with
the
exception of
the
ketch-stitch)
in
the
back
of
the book, and
screwed
tight
: on one
corner
of
the
press
is
placed
a little
paste, which is used
as
occasion
may
require,
for pasting
the
fly-leaves to
the
sections,
and also such leaves
as
may
be
torn
; but,
before
commencing
sewing,
it
may be
as well
to
observe,
that the
thread
must
not
be drawn
too
tight
at the
head and
foot,
and
that
the back
must
be
kept equally swelled.
The
back
of
the
book
being
placed
towards
the
person,
and
the title-side
uppermost,
the
fly-leaf
is
*
Usually the occupation
of
females.
For
Scale
of Charges,
vide Appendix.
t
These
need be
only
parted,
or may
be
sewn
on,
as
best
suits
the convenience
of the binder.
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16
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
first
sewn
on
as
follows
:
—
The
needle
is
first
put
through
the
ketch-stitch
mark
on
the
right-hand
side,
with
the right
hand, and
pulled
through
with
the
left
(leaving
about
four
inches
of
the
thread
undrawn
through),
and
with
the
same
hand
put
through
the
head
side
of
the
band.
Being drawn through
with
the
right
hand,
it
is now
put
through,
close
to
the band, on
the
other
side,
and
again
drawn through
with
the
left. With
the
same
hand,
the needle
is
now
put
through
close to
the head
side of the
next
band,
and, being
drawn
through
with
the
right
hand,
is
passed
through
close
to the other
side of
the band,
which is drawn throuf^h
by
the
left
hand,
by
which
it is
put
through
the
ketch-stitch
mark
;
a
little
paste is now
rubbed
along
the edge
of
the fly-leaf
(but
on
no
other sections,
unless torn)
;
the first
section
of
the work is
then
placed
on
the
bands,
ready
for sewing;
the
needle
is
first
put
through the
ketch-
stitch
mark
with
the
right
hand, and
drawn
through
with the left,
and
by
the same
hand
put
through
close
to
the band
on
the
side
next
the tail
of
the
page; and,
being
dra^vn
through with the
right hand,
with the
left
the
corner of
the top
half
of
the
section
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual 17
is
folded down;*
the
next
section is then
taken
up,
and
the
band
being
placed
in
the
saw-marks,
the
needle
is
put
through
on
that
side
the
band next
the
head
of the
book
it
is
then brought out on the
left-hand
side
of
the
band,
and
passed
through the
section
turned
down
on
the
right-hand
side
of
the
band,
and brought
out
on
the
ketch-stitch mark
of
the same section
(the
end
of
the
thread
left,
and the remainder
in
the needle is now tied
in a knot)
;
the
other
sections
are
proceeded
with
in
the
same
manner, sewing
backwards
and
for-
wards,
the thread
being
fastened through
the
ketch-stitches of
each
preceding sec-
tion,
and
every
alternate one
being
turned
down,
and
taken
up,
as
above
described.
But it
must here
be
observed, that
music
books,
f
and
those
which
require
frequent
*
It
is
better,
perhaps,
to
sew
the
first
and last
sections
of
a
work
entirely
through,
and
turn
down
the
third and following.
I
After unbound
music has
been
long
in use, it
frequently becomes
torn
at the
back; when
this
is
the case, it
is
necessary
to cut
an
equal
portion fi'om
each leaf
with
a
knife
and
straight-edge
:
about
half
a
dozen leaves
must then be
closely
whipt
together,
and the book
be
scAvn on
raised
bands,
as
sawing
the
back would cut
the
stitches.
B
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18
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
opening,
should be
sewn over
every
band,
the
above
method
being
too
slight
for
works of
this
description.
For
still
greater
strength,
books
are
sometimes
sewn
on
more
bands
than
already
mentioned:
when this is
the case,
the additional
bands
are
not
drawn
tlirough
the
covers,
but
are cut
off,
after
glueing,
close
to
the
edges
of the
back. Having
sewn the
book according
to
the
strength
required,
it is
perhaps
unnecessary to
say,
that a
number
of
the
same
size
may
be
sewn
at
one
time in the press, until, in
fact,
it
be
three parts
full
: the
strings
are
then
cut
at
the
top
of
the
press,
and unfastened
at
the
bottom :
the books are
now
divided
from
each
other,
and
the
bands
cut
apart,
allowing
an end
of
about two
inches
on
either
side
:
this
being
done,
the next con-
sideration
is
GLUEING
THE
BACKS.
This
is done
by
holding tlie
book in
the
left
hand,
and
drawing
the
brush
up
and
down Avith
the
right. If there
be
a num-
ber
ready
sewn, they
should
each
be glued
separately,
and
placed
one
above another
to
dry,
with
the
fore-edge
of
the
one
to-
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cowie's
bookbindee's
manual.
19
wards the
back of the other
:
they should
not be
dried
by
the
fire,
as
that
would
cause the
folds
to start,
and deprive
the
glue of its
strength.
The
next
thing
necessary,
after
the
back
is
dry,
is
to
scrape and
open
the
bands.
If it
be
in-
tended
merely
to
put
the
book
in
boards,
it is
now
ready for
that
purpose ;
and
we
shall
proceed
to
describe the way
in
which
that is
done.
B 2
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20
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
BOARDING.
The first thing
requisite
(the book being
forwarded
as
previously
described)
is,
to
trim
the
foot and fore-edge
pretty
even
with the
shears
:*
the back
must
then
be
slightly
ROUNDED,
by
gently
tapping
the
edges of
the back
with
the
hammer
;
after
which,
the
back
is
to
be
slightly
moistened,
which
renders
the
glue
rather
more
pliable
for the
next
process,
which
is
that of
BACKING.
This is done
by
placing a
thin
bevel-
edged
board on
each
side
of the
book, far
enough
from the edges
of
the
back
to
allow
the
ledge to
project
for
tlie
board,
putting
them
nearer
the
back
of smaller
than of
larger
books;
for the
boards
of
the
one
being thinner
than the
other,
the
ledge,
of
course,
should be
in
proportion.
*
This
is
now
generally
done
by
what
is
termed
tlie
trimming
knife,
whieh
affords
greater
expedi-
jlion and gives
the books a
neater
appearance.
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cowie's bookbindee's manual. 21
In
arranging
these
backing-boards,
care
must
be
taken
to
place
them
straight
with
the back,
and
at
the same distance
on
the
one
side
as
on
the other. The
two boards
must
now
be
grasped firmly
with
the
thumb
and
fingers
of
the left
hand,
and
the
book
lowered
into
the
press,
taking
care
that
both boards be equally
pressed,
and
that
they be not,
in
the
slightest
degree,
allowed
to
shift;
the back is
then
to be
gently hammered
up
and
down
on
both
sides,
which
produces
a
ledge
for
the
boards
:
it
will
then
be necessary
to
ob-
serve
that
the
back
be
perfectly
smooth
for any
roughness,
or
knotty
substance,
will
show through
the
paper. The
book
is
now
ready
for
PUTTING
ON
THE
BOARDS.
The sides
intended
to
fall
in
the
grooves
produced
by
backing,
must
now
be
cut
with
the
squaring-shears,
or
ploughed
square,
and
Avith the bodkin
two
holes
pricked
in
them
for each band,
the
one
directly
opposite
the
band
itself,
and
the
other
about
an
inch
from
it:
the
holes
intended
for
the
bands should
be near
a
quarter
of an inch from the
edge
of
the
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22
cowie's bookbinder's
rla.nual.
board,
and the others
about
half
an inch
:
the
strings are
now
drawn through
the
outer side
of
the boards,
and passed
through the
other
hole
to
the outer side
again,
when the
ends are
spread, and a
little
paste
rubbed
on
them
:
the
board is
then
rested
on
the
press
cheek
(or a stone
placed
upon
the press) and the
book,
with
one
board closed, held
with the
left
hand,
while
with the right
the
strings
are
ham-
mered
flat
on
the knocking-down
iron;
this
board
is
next
closed,
and
the
strings
are
flattened
on
the other
cover.
The
boards
are
then squared
with
the
press-
shears,
leaving
rather more
projection
on
their
fore-edge than
at the
head
and
foot.
It
is
now
necessary
to
prepare
for
what
is
termed
COVERING.
The
dimensions
of the
open
book
are
taken
in
length and breadth, and
about
half
an
inch
should be
allowed
for turning
in
all
round
:
on
the
centre
of
this another
piece of paper must be
pasted
(termed the
lining),
in
order
to
strengthen
the
back,
and which
should be cut
wide enough
to
extend
on
the
covers about
two
inches:
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cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
23
the
whole is
now
pasted, and very
lightly
folded
over
:
the
paste-brush
is
next
rub-
bed
once or twice
up
and down
the
back
of the
book; after which, the
paper
is
unfolded,
and the book
laid
on
the
one
half
(the
fore-edge
being
towards the
individual),
whilst the
other
half
is
care-
fully
pulled
over
the
back, and
the
cover
lying uppermost;
the covers
must
now
be
properly
adjusted;
that
is,
they
must
have
as
much projection
at
the
head
as at
the
foot,
and
vice
versa
:
they should
also
be
pulled
a little forward,
to prevent
their
(what
is termed) riding
on the
back; if
this
be
not
done,
the
book
will
never
open
freely.
The entire covering
is nowsmoothed
with
the hands
: after
which,
the
sides
are
turned
down,
and then
the
heads,
the
portion
falling
on
the
back being
turned
in
as
follows
:
—The
fore-edge
of
the
book
is placed in
a slanting
position
on
the
edge
of
the
work-board,
while
three
fingers
of
each
hand,
and the
thumbs spread
out
the
covers, the
fore-fingers
being
employed
in turning
in
the
ends,
which should
fall
exactly
even
mth the cover:
while this
is being
done,
the individual
must
press
himself
gently
against
the
bottom
of
the
book,
to
prevent
its
slipping
down.
The
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24
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
book
being again
laid
on its side,
the
fore-
edge
and
end-papers
before
turned
down,
are
now
raised
up
again at the
corners,
and with
the
thumb-nails
worked
one
against
the
other
:
the
portion
thus
raised
up
is cut
off
with
a
pair of
scissors,
and
the fore-edge
part
folded
over
the
head
and foot
ends
:
the
join produced
by this
fold should
fall,
as
near
as possible, in
a
straight
direction
from
the
corner
of
the
cover
to
that of
the
book when
shut.
The
outer
fly-leaf
at
each
end
is
now
cut
in
the shape
of
a
half-diamond,
and
pasted
down
to
the
cover, and
upon
this
the
next
is
pasted,
and
rubbed
smooth with
the
hands.
This
being
done, the
thumb-nail,
or
the
folding-stick,
should
be
rubbed
round the
edges of
the
covers,
to
smoothen
them.
Tin
plates,
or
pieces
of
glazed
board,
as
large, or larger than
the
book
itself, are
now placed
on
the
leaves
pasted
down,
and
on
the
outer
sides
of the
cover
these
latter
must be put exactly
even with
the covers
towards
the back,
and
just as
far
must the
book be now
lowered
in
the
press,*
and
screwed tight,
after
which
it
*
If
a
pressing-board be
placed
on
each side,
and
even
with
tlie
cover,
it
is
of
no consequence if it
be
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
25
should
be
immediately
taken
out
again.
The
label
should
now
be
pasted
on
the
back,
when
the
book may be
considered
as
finished.
Before
leaving this
subject, it
may
not
be
out
of
place
to observe,
that
some
boarded
books
have
a
paper
on
the
backs
of
a
different colour
from
that on
the
sides
:
this sometimes
depends on
the
fancy of
the Binder,
and
sometimes
on the
individual
employing
him. When
books
are
thus
covered,
the
strip
should
be
put
on before
the side-papers,
previous
to
which it must
be
lined^
and
should
extend
about an
inch
on
the
covers
of
twelves,
but
still farther
as
the
books
increase
in
size
:
the
strip
should
be
put
on
first,
the
covers adjusted, and the
ends turned
in
the
side-papers should
fall
on
this
about
half an inch,
and
the whole
must
be
pro-
ceeded
with
as above
described.
Some
boarded
books, instead of
a
different
co-
lowered
beyond the level
of the back,
as the
cover-
grooves, in
this
case,
cannot
be affected
by
the
cheeks
of the
press :
by
carefully attending
to
this,
particularly
in bound
books,
the edges of
the
back
will
be
found
to
project a
little
beyond
the
level
of
the
covers,
which
is
always the
case
with
well-
bound
books.
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26
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
loured strip
of
paper,
have
their backs
strengthened
by
a
piece
of
fine
canvas,
which
must
be put on
precisely
as
the
paper
above-mentioned. There
is another
method of
boarding greatly
superior
:
the
backs, instead
of
being
se^vn
on
bands,
are
sewn
on
strips
of
parchment,
and
the
whole
book is
covered with canvas:
but
it
so
nearly
approaches Vellum
Bind-
ing,
that a reference
to that
process
will
be
sufficient.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
27
SHEEP
BINDING.
Under
this head
are
principally
in-
cluded
school-books,
and
such
others
as
require only
inferior
bindings;
for sheep
is of
much
too
indifferent
a
quality
for
works of
a
superior
description.
With
this
process
we
shall
commence
exactly
where
we
did
with
Boarding,
Avith
the
exception
that,
instead
of
backing,
the
first
thing
now
to
be noticed
is
CUTTING
THE FORE-EDGE.
It
will
first
be
necessary
to
ascertain
whether the
plough
-knife
cuts
exactly
straight,
that
is,
whether it
cuts
up
or
down;
and the
general
criterion
of
this
is,
to
reverse
the
plough,
and
place
the
eye close
to
the screw-end of the
knife,
when,
if
the point
of
it
falls
exactly
even
with
the
level of the opposite cheek of the
plough, it
may be considered to be
pretty
correct
;
but
if,
after
all,
it
should
be
found
to cut
up^
it may
be
remedied
by
placing
a small
piece
of
paper
between
the
knife
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28
cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
and screw on
the side next
the point
of
the
knife
;
but
if it
cuts
down^
by
putting
a
similar
piece
on the reverse
side.
The
book should now be
opened
in
various
places, in order
to
find
out
the
narrowest
pages:
having
done
this, the compasses
are
extended
from
the
edge
of
the
back,
on the
title-page side,
to
within
a
little
of
the edge of
the
narrow leaf;
the
book
is
now
shut,
and
the
compasses
(being
still
kept
in the same position) are again
placed
on
the
edge
of
the
back,
towards
the
head,
and
extended
on
the outer
leaf
towards the
fore-edge,
Avhere
this arm
of
the
com-
passes must
make
a visible dent
:
the
same
thing is now
done towards the foot,
and
these
two
dents
are
the
guides
for
placing
one
of
the
cutting-boards,
whicli, when
used
for this
purpose,
is
called
the
runner:
these
boards
are
placed in
the
folloNving
manner:
—
The back-board
(against
which
the point
of
the
knife
cuts)
is
held
in
the
left
hand,
while with
the right the book
is
placed
against it,
the
fore-edge of which
must
fall below the level of the board
about an
inch:
the
thumb
and
fingers
hold
these two
firmly
together, and
with
the
right
hand the edge
of the
runner
is
placed
exactly
even
with the dents
made
in
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cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
29
the fore-edge :
the
thumb
of the
left
hand
is
now
brought
over
this
board
also,
and
the
whole
must
be
held
steadily,
and
in
this
position
lowered
into the
press,
the
right
hand
at
the
same
time
adjusting the
screws
of
the
press,
in such
a
way
as to cause
the
cheeks
to
nip
it
just
sufficiently
tight
to
prevent-its
slipping
:
the left
hand
may
now
be
taken
away,
and
both
thumbs
being
placed
on
each
end
of the runner,
and
the
fore-fingers
on the
back
board, the
whole
must
be
carefully worked
down
together,
until
the
runner
becomes exactly
even
with
the
cheek of
the
press, which
must
now
be
screwed up;
but
in
doing
this,
it
some-
times
occurs
that the side of
the
book
next the
back-board
will,
in
a trifling
degree,
rise
:
when
this
is
found
to be the
case,
the
right hand must
be put
under
the press, and
that side
of
the
book
must
be
gently
pulled down.
The
press
must
now be
screwed
up rather
tight, and
the
fore-edge
ploughed,
taking
care
that
the
knife
always
cuts /rom,
never
towards^
the
individual
: the
fore-edge
should
next
be rubbed
smooth
with
a
portion
of
the
shavings
thus
cut off, when the
book may
be
taken
out,
and
is
ready
for
the
next
operation,
which
is that of
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30 cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
ROUNDING.
This process
principally
consists
in
form-
ing a
neat
hollow
do \vn
the fore-edge
of
the
book,
corresponding
with
the
round-
ness
of
the back
;
though,
for
school-books,
consisting
of
only about
half-a-dozen
sheets,
this
is
never attended to;, but su-
superior
and
thicker
books,
although
only
in
sheep
bindings,
should
invariably be
rounded. Previous
to
doing
this,
the
press
must
be
reversed, othenvise
the
groove
in
which
the
plough works
will
be
found
a
considerable
obstruction
:
having
done
this,
the binder begins
as
follows
:
The ]3ook is
laid
on the press,
and
the
edge
of the
back
gently tapt
with
the
hammer,
the
fingers being
placed near
where the
hammer
falls, and the
thumb
in the centre
of
the
fore-edge:
as
the
hammer strikes,
the
thumb
should
press
firmly,
and
the fingers
at
the
same time
gently
pull
towards it: the book
should
now
be
proceeded with
in the same way
on
the
other
side,
and
should thus
be-
alternately
changed,
until the
hollow be
formed.
The
two
sides
of
the
fore-edge
must
then
l^e
placed
even
with
each
other,
and nipt tight
with
the
left-hand
thumb
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
31
and
fingers, and
while in this
position,
the
back
part
of
the
book
must
be
lowered
in
the
press
about
three
inches,
and screwed
tight,
where it
should
remain two
or
three
minutes;
and,
when
taken out,
the
fore-
edo;e
will be
found
to retain
the hollow
thus
formed.
It
is
now
necessary
to
pro-
ceed
to
CUTTING
THE
HEAD
AND FOOT.
The
Head
must
be
ploughed
before
the
foot,
and
the boards
placed
precisely in
the
same way
as
for the
fore-edge,
the
back-board being
put
about an inch
above
the
level
of
the
head,
and the
runner
just
so
far
from
it
as
will
allow
of
a-
sufficient
portion being cut
off
to
bring
the margin about equal
to
that
of
the
fore-edge:
this
last
board should
be
ar-
ranged
as
straight with the
head
as
the
eye
will permit.* In putting
the book
in
*
Beginners
sometimes
use
a
square:
the reverse
side to the title-page is laid uppermost,
and
one
portion
of the square
placed
along the
back,
the
other
falling
along
the
head;
while
in
this
position,
a dent is
made
near
the
back,
and another
near
the
fore-edge,
which serves
as
a
guide
for
the
runner.
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32
cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
the
press,
the
individual
ploughing
must
take
care
to
place
the
fore-edge
towards
him
:
and
in
screwino;
the book
tio-ht,
the
side
next the back-board
may
probably
rise
;
if
so,
this
must
be remedied
in
the
same
way as
mentioned for
the
fore-edge.
The
method
of arranging
the boards,
lowering the book, and
cutting, is
pre-
cisely
the
same
as
before
described.
We
shall
now,
therefore,
presuming
the
head
to be cut,
give
directions
for
Cutting
the Foot.
—
It
may first
be
ob-
served, that more
margin should
always
be
left
at
the
foot
than
at
the
head : the
depth of the
former should
be about
one-
half
greater than
that of
the latter, which
can easily
be
managed,
as
books
almost
invariably have
a deeper
margin
at the
foot
than at the
head;
but
before
com-
passi7ig^
the
leaves
should
be
looked
through,
to
be certain
that
the book will
really
allow
of such
additional margin
having
ascertained this, the title-page
side
of
the
book
should
be
laid
uppermost,
and
one arm of the
compasses
placed
exactly
on
the
edge of
the
head
on
the
fore-edge
side,
and
the
other
arm
extended
to
the
foot,
when
two
or
tlirec
leaves
must
be
opened, in
order
that
the
pages
them.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual
33
selves
may
be
a
guide
for
regulating
the
distance
for
extending
the
compasses:
having thus set
them, the
leaves are
again
shut, and
a
dent
made
with
this
arm of
the
compasses
on the outer fly-leaf:
the
same
thing is
next
done
towards
the
back
the
back-board
is
then
placed
as
already
mentioned, and
the runner
even with the
compass-holes:
the
book
is
next
lowered
into the press with
the
left-hand,
the
fore-
edge
being
placed
towards
the
individual,
and
the
book
is
ploughed.
Four
or
live
books
may
be cut by
this
method
at
a
time,
by
knocking
them
up
perfectly
even
with
the one
compassed,
and always
placing
this
last next
the
runner.
The
books
are
now
ready
for
another
process,
which
we
shall
defer
describing
until we
have made
some
remarks
on
a
sort
of
binding
which
we
thought
would
be better
suited
to
this place
than any
other, inas-
much
as
it
could
not
properly
be described
until
after
we
had spoken
of
cutting^ and
yet ought
to precede
the
covering
Avitli
leather
—
we
allude
to
Pamphlets,
Catalogues, &c.—
These
kind
of
books
have
seldom any
other
than
paper
coverings
: they are sewn and glued
in
the
same
way
as
bound
books; and
c
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»
34
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
when
dry,
the
bands
are
cut
off
nearl}'
close
to
the
backs
:
these short
ends
are
then
spread
out,
and
the
outer-
side
of
the
second fly-leaf is
pasted,
when
the outer-
leaf
must be
rubbed
pretty smooth upon
it; the same thing is
next
done on
the
other
side
the
book:
the
opened
strings
are
now
to
be
pasted down,
after which
the
paper
for
covering
is lined in
the
centre, pasted,
and
put
on,
in the
same
way
as that
for boarded
books,
the
lining
and
the
two
fly-leaves
being
generally''
considered
a
sufficient
substance
for
the
covers
: however,
should
these require
to
be
stouter, the outer-leaf is
pasted, and a
piece of paper
(free
from knots), or
very
thin
pasteboard,
is
put
upon
it,
which
should
be
placed
over the
strings,
and
even with
the back
:
the outer cover
being
put on, plates of
tin, or
pieces
of glaze-
board, are
placed
within and outside the
covers,
and
the
book
is
screwed
tight
in
the
press,
where
it
should
not
remain
more
than
a
minute
: it
will then
be
necessary
to plough
it,
precisely
in the way
we
have
described above;
but
care
must
be
taken
that
the
covers
be
perfectly
dry first,
otherwise they
will
be
found
to
shrink
l)elow
the
level of
the book
:
tliis
rule
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COWIE
S
BOOKBINDER
S
MANUAL.
60
must be
observed
with
all
books
that
are
cut
what
is
termed
fl,ush^
that
is,
not
having
projecting covers.
It
will
be
as
well
also
in
this
place
to
say something
of
Primers, &c.
—As these
kind
of
books
generally
fall
into
the
hands of
children,
the
backs
are
usually
made
stronger,
and
the
covers stouter
than
those
of
Pam-
phlets.
After
the
book
is
sewn, glued,
and
dry,
the bands
are
cut
off
nearly
close
to
the
back,
as
above-mentioned,
and
the
fly-leaves
pasted,
on
which
a
piece
of
thin pasteboard is placed
(very
near
the
edge
of the
back),
and smoothed
with the
hands
: a
strip
of red sheep,
according
to
the size
of
the
back, is then
pared
on
each
side
:
for
this
purpose
the
binder
has
a small
slab,
or
other
stone,
and a
knife
like
those used
by shoe-
makers:
the
strip must
next
be
pasted
Avith
tliick
paste,
after which
the
back
is
to
be
again
glued,
and
the
leather
worked
tight
over it,
which
should
extend
on
each pasteboard
about
half
an inch:
the
paper
intended for the
outside
is
next
pasted,
and
laid
on
just near
enough
the
back
to
cover the
join
of the
strip
to
the
board; it
is
then rubbed
smooth,
after
c
2
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36
cowie's bookbindeh's
manual.
whicli
the
book
is
screwed
tight
in
the
press,
and
when
dry^
may
be
cut.
The
edges
of
the
books we
have
just
named, and
all such
as
are
cut
fiush^
are
sometimes
coloured,
though
very
rarely,
as they are generally
sold
at
too cheap
a
rate
to
allow
of
this
additional
expense,
which
always immediately
follows
that of
cutting,
and
is
termed
SPRINKLING.
Law-books
are
never
subjected
to
this
process,
but
remain precisely
in
the
same
state
as
when
cut:
it
is, however,
just
the reverse
with
all
other
books with pro-
jecting
covers,
which
are
proceeded
Avith
as follows
:
—If
there
be
several already
ploughed, and
intended
to
be
sprinkled
with
the same colour, they are
placed
on
the
ground, or
work-board,
side
by
side,
with
their
fore-edges
uppermost
:
the
liquid* now being prepared, a
small
brush
is
dipt
into
it
;
but
before
using it
on
the
books,
the grosser
portion
of
the liquid
should
be
knocked from the
brush,
other-
*
For various
mixtures
for Sprinkling, see the
Ain>iiNi>ix,
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual. 37
wise it
would
fall
on
tliem
in
blotches
the
books
are
then
sprinkled by
holding
any
kind of
stick,
or
the press
-pin
in the
left
hand,
while the
hair
of the brush is
gently
tapt
on it
with
the
right,
directly
over
the
books, the
hands
continually
moving,
so
that
every leaf
may
be
equally
sprinkled:
the
books are
now
placed in
the
same
way
on
their
tails,
and when the
heads
are
sprinkled,
the
tails
are
placed
uppermost,
and
proceeded
with
in
the
same
way.
There
is also
another
method,
which is
termed
Colouring.
—
For
this
process
the books
are
diiFerently
arranged
from those
for
sprinkling:
half
a dozen,
or
more,
must
be
placed
one above
another,
on
the
right-
hand
cheek
of the
press, their
fore-edges
perfectly
even
with
each
other,
and also
the
press-cheek
itself:
a
board
must
be
laid on
the
top
one. The
liquid
now
being
in
readiness,
a
piece
of
sponge
is
dipt
into
it:
and while
the
left-hand
presses
firmly
on
the
board,
the
right
must
be
employed
in rubbing this sponge
several times
up
and
down
the fore-edges
the
heads
must
next
be
proceeded
with
in
the
same
manner, and
afterwards
the
tails
: they
will speedily dry.
The better
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38 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
way, perhaps, for
colouring,
is
to
screw
the
books tight
in the
press;
for
if
the
paper be
of
a
spongy
texture, the colour
is
apt to
soak
into
it.
In
respect
to
the
colours
most
suitable for
sprinkling
and
colouring,
we
shall
leave
that to
the
dis-
cretion
of the
binder.
The book
having
been
sprinkled
or
coloured,
may
now be
considered
ready
for
BACKING.
We
have
so fully entered
into the way
by
which
this is
done
in our
description
of Boarding, that
nothing
farther
need
be
said in
this
place
on
the
subject.
It
must,
however,
be
observed,
that
the
back
should
be
rubbed
with
thick
paste,
which
must
afterwards
be
wiped
off with
paper shavings
;
when the book
is ready
for
PUTTING
ON
THE BOARDS.
What has
been already
said on
this
subject
is
sufficient
:
it
nevertheless
may
be
as
well
to
mention,
that more
neatness
is
usually observed
in
cutting the boards,
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COWIE
S
BOOKBINDERS
MANUAL.
6\)
and
in
spreading
and flattening
the
string
of
bound
than
of
boarded
books,
the
latter being
intended,
at
some
after-period,
for re-binding,
which is never, or
very
rarely,
the
case
with
the
former.
We
shall
now
proceed
to
COVERING.
As
we
have hitherto confined
ourselves
to
sheep-binding,
we
shall
at
present
only
speak
of that
leather.
Previously
to
covering
with
sheep, whether
red
or
pale,
it should always be
dipt
in
water,
and
slightly
stretched
with the
hands.
As
the
skins
are
very
irregular,
care
should
be
taken
to
cut
them
to
the
best
advan-
tage.
If there are many
books
of the
same
size
to cover, a paste-board
pattern
is
usually
made,
about
half
an
inch
larger
in circumference
than
the
book itself,
which
will allow
for
turning
in
:
this
being
laid on
the
skin,
enables
the
binder
to
cut it
with
the requisite
accuracy.
It
is
next
necessary to pare
the
leather
care-
fully round
;
after
which
it is
to be pasted,
and
lightly
folded
over, in
which
position
it should
lie
a few
minutes,
so that
the
paste
may
slightly
soak into
it.
The
next
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40 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
thing
is
to
glue
the
back
afresh, and
as
the
glue
sets,
the
leather
should
be
put
on
:
the
method
of doing this
is the
same
as
covering a
boarded book;
but
the
leather
must
be
worked
on
tightly
with
the
fingers
in all directions; the
covers
are
next
adjusted,
the
edges
turned
down,
and
the
ends tucked
in, as for boarding
and in again
turning up
the fold of
the
corners
(as before
mentioned)
after
cutting
them,
the
head
and
foot
corners
must
be
neatly
turned
under
the
fore-edge
fold
on
the
cover,
which
should
be done
with
the
thumb-nail.
The edges of the
covers
should
then be
rubbed
smooth
with
a
folding-stick,
which must next
be used
for
setting
the
head.,
in
other
words,
making
it
smooth and
neat;
and
when
dry,
it
will be
found
to
retain
the form
thus
given
to
it. If
it
be
intended
to
sprinkle
or
marble
the
leather* it
should
be done
now.
The
book
is
then
ready
for
Finish-
%;
*
For
various Recipes for Sprinkling
and Mar-
bling
of
Leather,
see
the Appicndix.
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COWIE's bookbinder's Mi^UAL.
41
FORWARDING
IN
BOARDS.
The
beauty
of
a
book
materially
de-
pends
upon
good
forwarding;
for
unless
the
greatest
care and accuracy accompany
the
workman
throughout
this
branch
of
binding, the
finisher's
labour and
taste
will
be nearly useless.
This method of
forwarding
is
always
adopted
for
books
of
a
superior description, and sometimes
even
school-books, when they
run
to
any
considerable
thickness,
and where superior
neatness
is required.
We
now presume
the book
to
be in
the
same
state of
forwardness
as when
we
commenced
our
description
of
Board-
ing^
and shall
first
say
something
of
END-PAPERS, COLOURED
LININGS,
&C.
All
half-bound
books should have
double
papers,
and
the
two outside leaves
are to
be
pasted
together,
but
need
not
be
lined,* unless to
pattern
or order.
*
This
is
done
by
folding
the
sheet (if it
be
marbled
paper)
with
the
plain
side
outwards: one
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42
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
Half-extras,
and
other
superior work,
should be
lined
with
the
best
marbled
or
coloured
papers:
and
32mos,
12mos,
and
8vos,
must
have their
linings
put
on
the
second
leaf,
and the outside
one left
fly-
ing,
so
that
it may be torn
out
at the
pasting
down.
Quartos
and
folios
must
have
the
fly-leaves
pasted
to
the linings,
which
makes the joints stronger
for
large
and
heavy
books.
The
above
directions
being
attended
to,
the book
is
next
to be
ROUNDED,
by
gently
tapping
the
edges
of
the
back on
each
side; after which, it
may
be
considered
ready
for
BACKING.
As
we have
already
fully
detailed
this
process, there
is but
little
to
add in
this
place
; however,
it
may
here
be remarked,
that great
care
must
be
taken
in backing
extra
books: they
must
be
strictly
exa-
mined,
to
see that
the
slant
of
one
side
side
of
it being pasted,
it is
laid
between
the fly-
leaves,
into the
fold of
which it
is closely
worked
;
the
other
fold is next
pasted,
and the
next
fly-leaf
rubbed smooth
upon
it :
having done
the
same
thing
on the
other side of
the book,
the
superfluous
por-
tion
is
cut off with the
shears.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
43
of the
back exactly
correspond
with the
other,
and
that
it
be
perfectly
regular
and
even
: for
unless
a good back
be
made
to
a
book,
it
can never be well
finished.
After
backing, the
book
should
be
put
between
flat
boards, and
screwed
in the
laying
press:
the
back
should
then
be
raked
with
a
pair of
compasses, or an
iron
rake,
and
thin
paste rubbed
on
it
with
paper
shavings
:
the
reverse
end of
the
backing
hammer
is
next
to be
rubbed
up
and
down,
when
the
shavings
should
be again
applied,
to
wipe off the super-
fluous
paste.
SQUAEING
THE
BOARDS.*
For
extra
bindings
the
boards
should
be
lined,
and
are
usually
ploughed ;
but
as
this
greatly
injures
good knives,
an
old
one
should
be
kept
for
the
purpose;
or, in
ploughing
them, the
knife
ought
to
cut
towards^
instead
oi
from
the
indivi-
dual.
The
requisite
dimensions
of the
boards
are
obtained
by
extending
the
compasses
from
the
groove produced
by
*
If
it
be
wished
to
square
the
boards
by
scale,
correct dimensions
will
be
found in
the first
page
of the
Appendix.
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44
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
backing
to
the
edge
of
the
narrowest
leaves
in
the book,
and
to
the
same
dimensions
are
marked
and
ploughed
the
back
and fore-edge of the
boards;
they
are
now stabbed,
and
the
strings drawn
throuo;]
and
flattened. The
drawino--in
holes
of
octavos
should
be
about
half
an
inch
from the edge
of
the
board,
and the
other hole
about
an
inch
;
but
as
a
greater
projection
is
required
for the boards
of
larger
books,
the
holes should
be
pricked
still
forwarder,
to
allow
them
to
shift
more
easily.
If
there
are
several
books
of
the same size
to
bind,
of course
a
number of boards
may
be cut
at
one
time,
for each book
must
correspond
in
length
and
breadth.
Having
properly
adjusted
the
boards, which should
not be
put
on
too
tightly,
it is
necessary
to
pre-
pare
for
CUTTING* THE
FORE-EDGE.f
Previous
to
cutting,
the
back
must
be
*
In
cutting
folios,
quartos, and
all
heavy
books,
it
is,
pei'haps,
preferable to tie
a
thin
cord
round
thera,
within
the
boards,
about two
inches from
the
grooves,
as
by
this
means
tliey
are
more
manage-
able,
and
may
be
cut
with
greater
accuracy.
I
Many
binders cut
the head and
tail
first.
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COWIE'S
BOOIvBINDER's
jianual.
45
examined,
to see
that
it
has not
been
displaced
by
the
standing
press:
if
any
defect
be observed,
it
must
be remedied
by
the
backing-hammer; after which,
with
a
bodkin,
or
one
arm
of
the com-
passes, a line
must
be
drawn
doAvn the
book
itself,
on
the
title-page
side,
the
fore-
edge of the
board
serving for
the
guide
this
being
done, the
fore-edge
is proceeded
with
in
the following manner
:
Trindles*
are
placed
between
the
boards and
the
back
of
the book,
near
the
head
and
tail,
both ends resting on
the
two boards.
The
book
itself
is next
held
on each
side
with the open
hands,
and
the back is
knocked
on the cheeks
of
the press,
which,
by
means
of
the
trindles,
again
brings
it
to
a perfect
level:
while
in
this
position
(the
back
and
extended
boards
resting
on the
press-cheek) the back-board
is
arranged
with
the
left-hand, and
the
run-
ner
with
the
right,
placing
it
as
much
below
the compass-line
on the fore-edge,
as the
square
of
the boards
are
intended
to
project
:
the boards
are
then
pressed
tight
between
the thumb and
fingers
of
*
Trindles
are thin bevel-edged
pieces of
wood,
or iron,
about the
width
of the
back.
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46
cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
the left hand, and
the
back
examined
to
see
whether
it
be
correct
and
even
;
if so,
the
trindles
may
be
taken out,
and
the
book
carefully
lowered
into
the
press:
when
ploughed,
the
book will
again fall
into
its
former
position, and a
groove
cor-
responding
to
it
will
be
thus
formed
in
the
fore-edge.
It
is
now
necessary
to
prepare
for
CUTTING
THE
HEAD
AND
TAIL.
The
boards
are first
knocked
up
straight
with
the
head,
and
must
be carefully kept
in the
ledge
produced
by
backing;
the
square may now be used
as
previously
mentioned,
although
practice
renders
this
unnecessary, and the same rule
must
be
observed
for
the margin
;
the back
board
and
runner
are next placed
as
we
have
already
described,
and the
boards and
book
are
ploughed
together:
the
boards
are now
slipt below
the
head
as
much
again
as
it
is intended
they
shall
project
(which should
be
somewhat less
than the
fore-edge)
;
they
are
then
compassed
as
before
described,
and
are
cut
in
the same
way as
the
head was
:
the
boards now
being
equally
divided, there
will
be
found
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COWIE's
BOOKBINDEll'S
MANUAL. 47
a
sufficient projection for both ends:
a
trifling
piece
should
now
be taken
off
the
inner corners of
the
boq^rds,
to
give the
head
and tail,
when
the book
is
covered,
a
neater appearance : the book is then
ready
for
SPRINKLING,
MARBLING,
&C.
In
regard
to
Sprinkling^
we
have
nothing
to
add to
what
has
been
already
said
on
the
subject,
with
the
exception
that
extra
books are usually
sprinkled
with
more
care and
neatness :
Ave
may,
how-
ever, observe, that all books
containing
plates,
should, when
sprinkled,
be
scrcAved
tight in
the
press
;
for
plate-paper
is
generally
of so
spongy
a
texture,
as
to
render
the
colours
likely
to
penetrate
beyond
the
surface
—The
edges of
extra
books are
noAV more
generally
marbled
than sprinkled
;
and
if
they
have
marbled
linings,
the
edges
should
correspond in
pattern:
for
this
process,
the
books
are
usually
sent
to
the
inarbler's
:
but
those
who wish
to marble
their own
bindings,
will
find
the
method
clearly
explained
in
the
Appendix.
—
Gilding
of
the
Edges may,
in
London,
be
considered
nearly
a distinct
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48
cowie's
booiojinder's
manual.
branch
;
but
a
full
description
of
the
process
will
be
found
immediately
after
Vellum
Binding.
Gilt edges
require
much
care
;
and,
to preserve
them
unin-
jured, before
further
proceeding
with
the
book,
the
entire
fore-edge,
and
head
and
tail,
should
be enveloped
in
paper.
After
Sprinkling, Marbling,
or
Gilding
the
edges,
the books
are ready
for
HEAD-BANDING.
Head-bands
are
placed
at the
head and
tail
of all extra books, and also those
of
inferior
bindings, when they
exceed in
thickness
common spellings.
Worked
head-bands
are
used
for
the
former,
and
should consist
of
silk; and stuck-on head-
bands for the latter,
which
are
made of
small
pieces
of
striped linen
of various
colours.
These
two
sorts
of
head-bands
are
so
very
differently
formed,
that
we
shall
describe
them separately,
beginning
with
Worked
Head-Bands.
—These
head-
bands
are sometimes
worked on
small
strips
of thick
vellum,
which
give
them
a square
rather
than
a
round
form;
but
more frequently
on
paper,
rounded
and
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual 49
prepared
as
follows
:
—
A
piece
of thread,
or
very
thin
twine,
is
placed
on
a
slightly-
pasted
piece
of
paper, which
must be
narrow
or
wide,
according
to
the required
size
of
the
band;
this should
be
first
rolled
round
with
the
fingers,
and after-
wards
with
a
small
piece
of
flat
board,
upon
a
level
surface, and
must
be
occa-
sionally
moistened;
this
will
speedily
bring
it
to a
round
hard
substance, when,
after
drying
by
the
fire,
it may
be
con-
sidered
as
ready
for
the
purpose
intended.*
These
head-bands should
be
made
of
various
degrees
of stoutness,
to suit
small
or
large books
:
having
a number
in
readi-
ness,
care
must
be taken
to
select
them
of
the
proper
size
for
the
book
about
to
be
head-banded; the
criterion
is,
that
they
do
not stand so
high
as
the
boards
project,
by
the
difference
of
twice
the
thickness of the
leather
the book
is
to be
covered
with,
allowing
also for
the
silk
to
be
worked round it
;
however,
without
any kind of measurement, the
eye will
be
a sufficient
guide
for
this.
Two
pieces
should now
be cut oif,
exceeding
in
*
They
can
be
purchased
in
London
ready
pre-
pared,
at
from
6d.
to
2s. the hundred.
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50
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
length
the
width
of the back
by
about
an
inch.
The
silk
for
these
head-bands
should
be rather stout,
and
well
twisted
sometimes two
different colours
are
worked together,
consisting
of
two
threads
of
the one,
and
four
of
the
other,
or
an
equal
number
of
each;
but
it
is
now
more
generally
the
custom
to
use
but
one
colour,
when,
of
course,
the threads
must always
be equal
:
the
colours
employed
for
this
purpose,
depend upon the fancy
of
the
binder
—
green,
pink,
yellow,
red,
blue,
or
any other colour
may
be
used.
A
long
needle
is
now
requisite; and if
the
band
is
to
be
Avorked with
one,*
two,
or
three
threads over each
other,
a
single,
double,
or
treble
thread
should
be
drawn
through
it,
which
must
be
of sufficient
length for the
entire head-band:
if
two
different
coloured
silks are
to
be used,
they
must be tied
together,
that portion
on
which the
needle
is
placed being longer
than
the
other,
and
we
shall presume
it is
intended
to
form
the head-band with
this
latter.
Having,
therefore,
the
needle
and
*
The
head-bands
of
half
extra
books
should
be
worked with
a
single
thread, extra with
a
double
tlircad,
and
super-extra
with
a
treble
thread.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
51
silk in
readiness, the
book, if quarto
or
folio,
or
any
heavy
work,
should
be very
slightly
screwed in the press,* with
the
back
uppermost,
and the
end
on
which
the
head-band is
to
be
placed considerably
elevated: the
needle must
now be run
through
the
midle
of the
second
section
on
the
left-hand
side,
just
below the ketch-
stitch,
and drawn out far enough to
bring
the
knot
in
the join
of
the
two
threads
close
to
the
centre
of the
section;
the
needle
is
again
put
through
the
same
place, and
the
thread
drawn
nearly
close
the
head-band
is
now
placed under
the
loop
thus
formed, and the
end
to
which
the needle
is attached,
is pulled
tight
with the
left
hand, and
the
other
end is
brought
over
with
the
right,
and
passed
under and
over
the
head-band, when
that
is
held
tight
with the
left hand
;
the other
end is
now
put
over
that, and also under
and
over
the
head-baud: they are
thus
worked
alternately
over
each
other,
as
far
as
about
the middle section
of the book,
through
which
the needle
is again
passed
below
the
ketch-stitch,
and brought
over
*
Books from
32rao.
to
8vo.
may be
head-banded
between the
knees.
D
2
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52
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
the head-band, when tlie
working
is
pro-
ceeded
with
as
before,
as
far
as
the
last
section but
one;
the needle
is
passed
through
this section
-and
over
the
head-
band twice,
and
finally
fastened
on
the
back
:
the ends
of
the
head-band
are now
cut
off
nearly
close
to
the
silk
at
either
end, but
this
must
be
done
in
a
peculiar
manner
:
the
edge
of
the
knife
must
be
held
towards
the silk,
so
that Avhen
cut,
the
head-bands
at each
end
should
form
a
small
notch;
by
this
means,
they
are
more
readily
turned
up,
which
is
requi-
site,
to
prevent
the
silk
slipping
off The
part
produced
by
working
one
thread
over the
other,
is called the
braiding;
this
is
considered
the
principal
beauty
of
the
head-band,
and
should
therefore be
formed
with great
neatness,
being per-
fectly
regular
throughout, which
may
easily be
managed,
by
pulling each
thread,
when
working, with an
equal degree
of
tightness;
this braiding
should be nicely
smoothed
with
a
thick
folding-stick,
and
made
perfectly
flat.
The
other
end
of
the book
is next
placed
uppermost,
and
proceeded
with
in
the same
way.
The
head-bands
being
now
finished,
the glue-
brush
should be drawn along them, on
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
53
the
back
of
the
book,
as
this will
tend
to
bind them on more
tightly; but the
brush
should not
touch
the top
of
them.
—We shall
now
proceed
to a
description
of
the
Stuck-on
Head-bands.
—
These are
formed more
readily than
the
preceding,
but
they do
not possess
equal
beauty,
having
no
braiding,
and are
consequently
not used for extra
binding:
they
are
formed
by
cutting
a piece of
linen
about
an inch
deep,
and the length equal
to
the
width
of the
back : one
side
should now be
pasted,
and
a
piece
of
well
t^visted string,
or a
portion
of
the
band
above-mentioned,
laid in
one-third of its
width;
it
is
next
folded
over,
and
pressed close
up
to
the
head-band:
each end
of
the back
of
the
book is
now
glued,
and
the linen
laid
upon
it,
the head-bands
themselves
being
placed flat
on
the
leaves.
.
HOLLOW
BACK.
This
method has
come
into
general
use
for
almost
all
books
of
a
tolerably
good
thickness,
and
may
be
considered
a
great
improvement
on
close backs,
the leather
being
less
likely
to crack,
and
the book
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54
cowie's
bookbindee's
manual.
opening with
more
freedom.
The
hollow
back
is generally formed by
cutting
a
strip
of paper
twice
the width
of
the
back,
and
the
exact
length
;
this must
be
folded
in
half.
The back now
being
fresh
glued,
one
half
of
the
fold should
be placed
upon
it,
and the
other folded
over it,
when
it
will
be
ready for
(what
are
gene-
rally
adopted)
STUCK-ON
BANDS.
These
are
formed
by
placing
strips
of
stout
leather
across
the
back,
narrow
or
Avide,
and at
such
distances
from
each
other,
as
may
suit
the
fancy
of
the
binder
they
should be
firmly bound on
by glue,
and
when
this
has
properly
set, should
be
neatly
pared
down at
each end, but
not
on
the
sides:
these
may
be
considered
a
great
improvement
upon
the
old
method
of
sewing
upon
what
may
be
termed
raised
bands,
which is
generally
to
be
seen on
the
backs
of old
books, that is,
instead
of
the
bands
falling in
the
saw-
marks
level
with
the
back,
they
were
raised
above
it.
The
binder's
next
con-
sideration
is
that
of
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COWIE
S
BOOKBINDERS
MANUAL.
55
COVERING.
The observations made
on
slieep-hinding
equally apply
here,
with
the
exception
that more
care
and neatness
are
required.
In covering extra
books,
the
leather
must
be
nicely
pared
;
and
the
fold of
the
leather
at the corners
should
be made
to
fall
exactly even with
each
corner
of
the
fore
edge
:
in
tucking
the
ends
in,
enough
must be
again
drawn
out
to cover
the
head-bands.
The
head
must
now
be
neatly set with the
folding-stick,
pressing-
it rather inwards where
the
boards
have
been cut away,
and
flattening
the
leather
nicely
over the top of
the
head-bands:
the
form
thus
given
it
in
its
damp
state,
it
will retain
when
dry.
If
the
covers
are
intended
to
be sprinlded
or
marbled,*
this
should
be
done
before
the
book
be
further
proceeded
with.
Most
leathers
require
damping
before
covering;
of
course
all
leathers,
where
the grain and
gloss
would
be
aiFected
by
moisture,
are
an
exception.
The
grain
of
morocco
will
be
considerably
thrown
up
by
using
glue,
instead of
paste, for
*
Vide
Appendix.
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56
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
covering :
the
glue should
be
put
thinly
on one
of the
boards,
and
the
leather laid
carefully
on
it
;
the
book
should
then
be
turned over,
the
board slightly
glued,
and
the
leather
carefully drawn over
that
also
the
portion intended
to
fold over the
inner
sides
of
the
boards
may
be
pasted,
and
worked
down as other
leathers,
it being
of
less consequence
to
preserve the
beauty
of the
grain here,
than on
the outer cover-
inoj.
Kussia leather
should
be
iminero-ed
twenty
minutes
in
lukewarm
water,
and
beat
and
rubbed
well
on
the
cheeks
of the
press, and
be
left
in
paste an
hour,
before
covering.
HALF
BINDING.
In half-bound books
the
leather
should
be of
a
proportionably
greater
width
from the
edge of
the back
i'or
larger
than
smaller
books
:
the
corners
should
be
cut
of
an
obloiig
shape;
and both
back
and
corners
must
be neatly pared
:
the
corners
are
to
be
put
on
first,
and
the strip
on
the
back
afterwards,
in the same
way
as
for
whole
binding.
The
marble
paper
must
be
cut with
a
straight
edge, and
laid
on
the
intended
distance
from
the
back: it
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
57
should
now
be folded
back
at the
corners,
which
back-fold
must
be cut
off: it is
then
to
be
pasted
and
laid
on
the side
of
the
board,
taking
care
to
allow
an
equal
distance from
the
edge of the
back
and
the
centre
of
the
corner.
The
book,
either
whole
or
half-bound,
may
now
be consi-
dered
as
entirely out
of
the
Forwarder's
hands, and ready
for
the
Finisher.
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58
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
FINISHING.
We
have now
come
to
that
part
of
binding
where
much
is
left
to
the
taste
of
the
workman. The various
patterns
which have been
invented from
time
to
time are
almost
innumerable;
and
on
the
judicious
use of
these
entirely
depends
the external
beauty
of
the
book.
In
this
branch
of
binding,
it
is
requisite,
in the
first place, to
wash
the
cover over
with
SIZE OK GLUE-WATER.*
This is used
to
prevent
the
glaire
from
sinking into the covers.
In
applying
it,
the boards
should be
held
in
the
left
hand,
with the
covers
extended
over
the
thumb
and
fingers
;
a
sponge
must
then
be
dipt
in
the
size-water,
and
the
entire
cover
slightly rubbed over
with it
:
the
book is
*
Some
use
paste
and
water
mixed together
to
about
tlie consistency
of
thick
milk.
M'
size
or
glue-water
be
used
for
common
calf
it should
be
rather stronger, and for
Russia
stronger
still.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
59
now
to
be
placed end
uppermost,
until
dry, or
sideways
on
the
edge
of
a
table,
or something
similar, allowing
one
board
to
hang down.
Care
must
be
taken not
to
rub
the
size-water
on
the
side-papers
of half
bound
books,
but
it
must
be
ap-
plied
to
the leather at the corners. When
the
cover is
dry,
the
back must
be
pre-
pared
for
filleting,
by
MAEKING
THE
BANDS.
The back is first to be divided
with
a
pair
of compasses,
into three,
four,
or
five
parts, according
to
fancy,
and
the
line
of
these divisions should
fall,
as
near
as
possible,
on
the
bands,
allowing
more
space next
the
foot:
the divisions
being
thus
equally
taken,
a
folding-
stick is
to
be
rubbed across
the back,
to make
a
more
sure guide for
the
fillet
:
a line
must
also
be
made
with
it
near
the
head, and,
generally,
two at
the
foot. If
it
be in-
tended
to
put
on
a
lettering-piece
(which
is
not required for
fancy-coloured
lea-
thers), it
should now
be
clone:
this
must
be
pared
so
thin,
as
scarcely
to
be
percep-
tible
on
the back,
and
cut
so as
to
fit in
exactly
between
the
second
and
third
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60
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
bands from
the
head.
The
covers
are
now
ready
for
GLAIRING.*
It may
here
be observed, that
it
is
always
essential
to
keep
good
glaire,
otherwise
it
will
be impossible
to
give
the
gold
a proper
lustre
;
the
glaire
is
to be
rubbed
over the entire
cover,
in
the
same
way as
the
paste-water,
and
must
tho-
roughly
dry
before
each
fresh
application.
Morocco and
roan
only
require
but
once
*
Glaire
can
be
bought
ready
prepared, in
Lon-
don, at the
shops
of
nearly
all the
vendors
of mill-
board,
at
1^.
3d.
per
quart;
but
as
it
may
not
always
be
convenient
to
procure
this,
we will
give
directions for
preparing
it
for
immediate
use
on
a
small scale:
Make a hole
in
the shell
of
an
egg,
and let the glaire run
into
a
cup: cut the
end of a
quill into
cross
slits, about an
inch
in length, and
bend
the
slip
pieces
out
horizontally:
place these
in
the glaire, and
work
backwards
and forwards
the
feather part of
the quill
between
the palms of
the
hands
:
this
will
produce
a
froth,
the whole
of
which,
after
standing
a
few
hours,
must
be
skimmed
off,
when it
may
be
considered as fit for
use:
a
little
salt thrown into it,
tends
to
preserve
and clear
it.'
All
books, whether
gilt or
otherwise,
must
be
glaired;
but
the paper
covering
the sides
of
half-
bound books should
be
sized.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
61
glairing,
sheep
twice,
and
(if
the
paste-
water
has
been
used)
calf
three
times;
but
if
the cover
has been
sized,
twice will
be
sufficient. Russia
leather,
previous
to
finishing,
should
be
washed
over once
with
serum
of
bullock's blood,
which
will
give
it
a
gloss,
and
prepare
it
better
for
the
next
process,
that
of
FILLETING.
Several
books
of
the
same
dimensions,
if
the
backs
be
tolerably flat
(as
is
usually
the
case
with school-books),
may
be
filleted
at the same
time.
A
piece
of
wood,
commonly
called
a
filleting
board,
or T,
should
be
screwed
tight
in
the
cut-
ting
press;
it
must
fall
below
the
level
of the
backs of the books, which
should
be ranged
side
by
side
against
it,
care
being taken
to
place
them
exactly
even
one
with the other. The
cushion
being
now
in readiness, a
leaf
of
the
book
con-
taining
the gold
must
be gently
opened*
*
Handling
the
gold
requires
considerable
care:
the least
air,
or
even
slightly
breathing
on
it,
will
frequently
prove the loss of the entire
leaf.
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62-
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
at
tfie end,
where
it
must
be
lightly
struck
with
the
knife
;
this
will
produce
sufficient
air
to
raise
the gold, so
as
to
admit
the
knife
under
it,
by
which it
should be
care-
fully conveyed
to
the
cushion
:
it
must
next
be
cut
into
pieces,
a
little
longer
and
wider than
the
face
of
the
fillet,
or
roll,
intended
for
covering
the bands.
The
fillet
is
now
to
be put
to
the
fire,
until
it
has received
a
moderate
heat
:*
the
face
of
the fillet
must
then
be
rubbed
with an
oiled rag,
and
rolled over
each
separate,
strip
of
gold, until
covered.
Holding the
fillet
in the
right
hand,
and the
left on
the
books, the
fillet
should
be
firmly
pressed
over
the
marked
bands
till
the
whole
are
filleted;
after
which,
if
it
is
not to
be
lettered,
the
impressions
should
be
cleared
with
a
piece
of
flannel.
*
All
tools
used
for finishing,
must
be
previously
heated
;
but
new
ones
require
a
greater
heat
than
those
which
have
been
a
considerable
time
in
use
:
practice
is
the
only
sure
guide :
some
idea,
how-
ever,
may
be
formed
of
tlie
correct
heat,
by
applying
to the
tool a
piece
of
damp
sponge,
when, if
it
pro-
duces a
slight
hissing
sound,
it
will,
in
most
in-
stances,
be
found a
tolerably
fair
criterion.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
LETTERING.
On
preparing
the leather for
the
gold,
it
is first necessary
to
enclose some tallow*
in
a
piece of linen
rag, which should
be
rubbed
over
the lettering
-piece until
slightly
greased
;
for
if
too
much
be
rubbed
on,
it
will materially
affect
the
brilliancy
of
the
gold
:
a
leaf
of the
gold
must
now be
conveyed
to the cushion,
and
a
sufficient
portion cut from
it
to
cover
the
lettering-piece,
on
which
it
must
be placed
by
a
piece
of
cotton-wool,
which
will cause
the
gold
to
adhere
to
it
by
first
rubbing it
on
the cheek:
with the
same
piece of
wool
the
gold
must afterwards
be
slightly
pressed, to
bind
it
more
firmly
to
the leather. The
book
must
now
be
put
in the laying-press,
with
the head
more
elevated
than
the foot.
The
brass
lettersf
must then
be
moderately
heated
*
Some
finishers
use
palm oil,
which
perhaps
is
better
:
this
also
should
be
enclosed
in
a linen rag,
and kept in a cool
place
;
others
use
sweet oil.
f
Metal
types
are
an
excellent
substitute
for
these
but
in
lettering with
them, the
entire
word
must
be
adjusted
in
a
stamping-frame,
it
being
nearly
impossible
to
use
them
separately :
more
expedi-
tion
is also
necessaiy,
as
metal
will not retain the
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64
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
(either
in sand
or
before
the fire), and
each
rubbed,
before
lettering,
on
a
piece
of
rough
calf
;
they should
then
be
lightly
pressed
on
the
lettering-piece,
one
after
the other,
ranging
them
perfectly straight
but
this
requires
some
little
practice
: the
best
guide
for
beginners
is,
to
mark
a
straight
line
where the
letters are
to
fall,
previously to
putting on the
gold, which
is
now
to
be
rubbed
off
as before-men-
tioned.
GILT
BACK.
The
backs
of
such
books
as
are
in-
tended
to
be
ornamented
with various
tools,
are
usually
entirely
covered
with
gold:*
this
must be
cut in strips
the
requisite
heat
near
so
long
as
brass.
Some
heat
metal
types
in
boiling
water
:
but this
is
objectionable,
inasmuch
as
there
will always
be a
partial
steam
arise
from
the
letters
thus
lieatetl,
Avhich
is
likely
to
deaden
the
gold : heating
them
before the
fire
is
preferable,
taking care
not to
put
them
too
close,
or they
are
likely
to melt.
*
During
hot weather
it
will
be advisable
not
to
cover
more
than about twelve
volumes
at
one
time,
and
in
very
cold
weather
not
more
than
eight
:
when
in
mild
weather
twenty may
be
covered
before
finishing.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
65
width of
the back, and placed
on
in the
same
way
as
for
lettering,
joining
one
piece
to
another,
until
the back
be covered.
The
book must now
be
put
in
the laying-
press,
nearly
level with
the back, perfectly
even,
and screwed
moderately
tight
:
the
fillet
is
then
to
be
put
over
the
bands,
on
either side
of
which
any light pallet may
be
used
:
any
tool,
emblematic of the
sub-
ject,
or that
best
accords
with
the dimen-
sions of
the back, is
next
to
be
used,
beginning
at
the
head
of
the
book,
and
making each impression
(if
only one
tool
be
used)
centrical
between
the
bands
: the
tool
must
bear equally
every
way,
by
working it
a
little
backward and
forward,
and
to
the
right
and
left
:
the
tool
must
not
be
too
long
dwelt
upon; and
the
larger
it is, the heavier
must be
the im-
pression, bearing
scarcely
at
all
on
ex-
tremely small
ones.
The
book is
then
to be lettered, and
the
gold
to
be
rubbed
off,
as previously
stated.
POLISHING.
The
book
having
been
gilt in
the
pre-
ceding
way,
is now
to be
polished.*
On
•
The polishing
iron
must not be used on
grained
E
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66
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
every
portion
of the
leather,
and the
side-
papers
of
half-bound
books,
the
polishing
iron
must be
applied:
it
is
first
to
be
heated, and cleared on rough
calf;
but
care must be
taken that
it be not
too
hot,
or it
will turn
the
glaire white,
and
de-
face
the
marbling.
Before
applying
the
iron,
the
cover
should
be
rubbed
over
with
a
clean
oil
rag,
when the
edges
are
first
to
be
polished, then the
backs, and
lastly, the
sides or
boards,
passing the
iron
quickly
over
the whole,
and
not
allowing it
in
the
least to rest
on
any
part of
the
leather or
paper.
The
book
being brought
to a
good
poUsh, is
now
ready
(if
it
suit
the
taste
of
the
binder)
for
BLIND
TOOLING.
This
makes
a
pretty
contrast to
the
gold,
and
should
not
be
done
until the
book is
polished,
otherwise
the
polishing-
iron Avill,
in
some
degree,
counteract
the
intended efi'ect.
The tools
must
be heated,
cleared
on
rough
calf, and applied
in
the
leathers
;
instead
of this,
they must
be
rubbed well
with
a
piece
of
rough
call .
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cowie's
bookbinder's
sianual.
67
same
way, as
if
intended
for
using
on
the
gold.
The next thing
to be
done,
is
BURNISHING
THE
EDGES.
The
book, or
books, must
be
placed
between
boards,
and
screwed
tight in
the
cutting-press
;
then
with
a
dog's
tooth,
or
agate, the
fore-edge, and
head
and tail,
must be briskly rubbed
backwards
and
forwards,
until
brought
to
a
fine
polish,
after
which
are
to
be
pasted
down
the
END-PAPERS.
For extra
books,
and particularly
such
as
have
coloured
or
marbled
linings,
con-
siderable
neatness
is
required
in
pasting
them down.
Each
board
should be
thrown
back,
and the
paper
worked
in
perfectly
smooth and even
at the
joints
of
the
boards;
the paper
should
be
allowed
to
dry
with
the
boards
thrown
back,
or
the
joint will
never be
well
formed
: a
bad
joint
will,
on
re-opening
the
boards, after
closing
them,
partly
draw back the leaves
of
the
book with
them,
and
this will
always
be
the
case,
unless
the
above
di-
rections
be attended
to.
The
next
thing
to be considered, is
E
2
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68 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
TAPPING
DOWN
THE
CORNERS.
There
is
usually a roughness
left
on
the
inner
side
of
each corner
of
the boards,
partly
produced
by
turning the
leather
in,
and
partly
by
the polishing-iron
passing
along
the
edges;
this
is
to
be
remedied
by
tapping
them
down
with
the
backing
hammer, which, however,
must
be
used
very
gently,
or, in lieu
of
this, polished
plates
of tin
are
to
be
placed
between the
linings,
and
the
same
outside,
as
far
back
as
the joints
of
the
boards,
or
graining
boards
are
to be
used,
as the case
may
require,
and the books
to
be
screwed
tight
in
the
standing-press; when, after
remaining
a
proper
time,
and
being
taken
out,
the cover
should
be rubbed over
with
a piece
of
rough
calf,
which
will greatly
add
to
its
beauty.
The book may now
be
considered
as
entirely
finished.
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gowie's
bookbinder's
manual 69
VELLUM BINDING.
Under
this
head
are
comprised Memo-
randum
and
Account
Books
of
every
de-
scription
;
and
though these
are sometimes
covered
with
rough
calf,
and
other
leather,
and
are
by
no
means
limited
to
vellum
coverings,
it
is nevertheless
generally
de-
nominated
Vellum
Binding.
We
shall
describe
this
process in
regular
order,
and
under
distinct
heads,
beginning
first
with
FOLDING.
There
is less
trouble
here
than
in
printed
books
;
and
it
is
only
necessary
to observe,
that
foolscap
books
must
contain
six
sheets
in
a fold;
but
above that size,
only
four,
unless the
paper
be thin, when
the fold
may
contain
six.
The
sheets,
being thus
arranged,
must
be
knocked
up
even, and
taken
up
to
the
standing-press,
when,
after
remaining
a short time,
they
are
ready for
SEWING.
All
end-papers
to
Account
Books
should
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70 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
consist of
sheets
from
outside
quires; and
large
books,
such
as foUos
and
quartos,
should have
double
end-papers; but
for
octavos,
&c., single
ones will
be
sufficient.
These books
must
be sewn
on
slips
of
strong
vellum;
but
small
ones
may
be
sewn
on
parchment,
though
vellum
is
al-
ways
preferable
;
the
slips
should
be
about
an inch wide, and
two
inches
and
a
half
longer
than
the
width
of
the
back.
Fools-
cap
must
be
sewn on
three slips
;
but
for
books above
that
size,
the
number
must
be
increased; perhaps
the best criterion'
for the
number
will
be,
by
observing, that
the slips
may
be
about
two
inches
apart,
and at
equal
distances.
About an inch
of
one
end
of
each
slip
should
be
bent, so
as
to
form
a sort
of
foot :
the fly-leaf
sec-
tion should
now
be
placed
on
its
side, and
the
bent
portion
of
each
slip
placed
under
it
:
the
sewing is then
to
be
proceeded
with
in
the
same
way
as
for
printed
books,
with
the exception
that,
greater
strength being
required for vellum
books,
they
must
be
sewn
through
each fold, and with waxed
thread.
After
the gewing is completed,
the
first
ruled
leaf
at
each
end
is
to
be
pasted
to
the
waste-paper
: after
thorough-
ly
drying,
the back
is
to
be
glued
in
the
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual. 71
usual
way.
When
tlie
back
is dry,
the
next
thing
required
is
CUTTINd
THE
FORE-EDGE.
The
directions given
at
page
27,
equally
apply
here.
We
must,
however,
observe,
that
the
cutting
of the
fore-edge is
usually
regulated by
a
pattern
kept
for
the
pur-
pose
;
the
head
and
tail
is cut
by
measure-
ment of
inches;* but in
respect
to
ruled
books,
considerable care is
required
not
to
plough
off
too
much
of
the
portion
allowed
for
the
pence
and
fractional
parts.
The
next
thing
to
be considered
is
ROUNDING.
There
is
a
slight
variation
between
printed
and
stationery
books
in
respect to
rounding ;
the
fore-edge
of
the
latter
must
form
a
deeper
hollow,
and
consequently
a
rounder
back;
but the
process is
precisely
the
same
as
described
at
page
30, especial
care
being
taken
not
to start the
folds,
which
may
be
avoided
by using
the
ham-
mer, and
workirfg
the
fingers,
in a gentle
and regular way. The
book
is
then
to
be
taken
to
the
standing-press;
after
being
*
See
the
Appendix.
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72
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
well
screwed
down,
it
may
be taken out.
The
next
thing
to
be
done
is
*
CUTTING
THE HEAD
AND
FOOT.
The
observations
made
at
pages 31
and
32 apply
equally
to
cutting
the head
and
foot of
stationery
books;
the
same
may
be said
of
what
has
been
mentioned at
page
47
of
the next
process,
that
of
MAEBLING.
As
previously
observed,
such
books
as
are
intended for
marbling
are
usually
sent
to
the
marbler's,
to
be
done
agreeably
either to
pattern
or fancy
; but
for
those
who
have
not
this
convenience
(which
must
be
the case
with
many
country
binders)
we
have
given
full directions
in
the
Appendix.
The book is afterwards
ready
for
HEAD-BANDING.
The
head-bands
must
be
worked on
slips
of
vellum
in the
same
way as
de-
scribed
at
page
48,
so
as
to
form a
deep
narrow,
rather
than
a
round
band.
The
back
should
then
be
lined,
l>etween
each
slip
of
vellum,
with
strong canvas
and
glue,
when it
is
to
remain
until
dry.
A
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cowie's
bookbindek's manual.
73
slip of millboard must
next
be
prepared,
to form
the
HOLLOW
BACK.
The
millboard is to
be
cut
about a quar-
ter
of
an
inch
wider than
the
back
of
the
book
; it is then to
be
glued
on
both sides
it
should
remain
in this
state about
ten
minutes;
it
is
then to
be
laid
on
a
sheet
of
paper;
and
a
smooth
roller* (the
di-
mensions
of
the back
of
the book)
is
to
be
placed
upon it :
the
whole
is now
to
be
worked
backwards
and
forwards on the
roller,
which
T\dll
give
the millboard a
half-circular shape
:
in
this state it must
be
placed
near
the
fire,
until
it becomes
quite hard, or
literally
baked.
Now,
if
the
roller
was
the
proper
dimensions,
and
the slip
correctly
cut
in
width,
it
will
be
found
exactly
to
correspond
with
the
back
of
the
book
:
a
piece
of
canvas
must
now
be
cut sufficiently large to
extend half the
*
For
this
purpose different
sized rollers
should
be
used; and
a
proper
one being
chosen
for
the
size
of
the back, the
millboard
may be used
so
as to
ex-
actly
meet round
it;
when proceeded
with
as
above
described,
it
may
be
slightly screwed in
the
press,
and cut on
the
opposite side to
the
join
of the
board:
by
this
means
two
hollow
backs are made
at
one
time.
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74 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
width of
the
board
on
one side
of the
book,
to the
same
distance
on the other
side;
this
is
to
be ghied on
the
boards,
and
over
the
back,
which
will
materially
strengthen
the
book, and
hold
the hollow
back
lirmly
on.
It
will
now
be
necessary
to cut,
and
paste
on
THE
BOARDS.
These
must
be cut
with the plough
knife,
and
the
squares
ought
to
be
rather
larger
in
proportion
than
for
printed
books.
For
the
binding
we are describ-
ing,
it is
better
to
paste
two thin
boards
together,
leaving
about
one half side of
the
boards
unpasted
:
they
are
then
to
be
put
into the press for about five
minutes
and
when taken
out,
the part left open is
to
be
pasted,
and
the
ends of the vellum
on
which the book is sewn to be
slipt
in
the
opening
:
the
boards
at
the
same
time
are
to
be
properly adjusted,
and
must
be
distant
from the back a
quarter
of
an
inch: the
book
must
then
have
another
pressing, after
which
it
will be
ready
for
COVERING.
If
the book
be
covered
with calf,
or
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
75
any
other
leather,
it
must
be
neatly
pared
all
round,
and
pasted
;
and after
remaining
about ten
minutes, it
may
be put
on in
the
usual way,
which will
form
a
neat
groove
at
the
join of
the
boards: while
in
this state,
it
is
to
be well
pressed.
Calf
covering
should,
when
dry,
be
dressed
with pumice-stone, and brushed
well
with
a
clothes'-brush.
If
the book
is
to
be
covered
with vellum
or parchment^
the
cover
must
be
lined
with
cartridge or
strong
white
paper,
and
put
between
paste-boards.
The
cover
should
be
put
on
dry,
and well rubbed
with
a
folding-
stick
in the joints
next the
back:
the
boards
are
then
to
be
pasted,
and
the
cover
pressed
on
them,
when
the
book
should
be
put into
the
standing-press:
after it
is
supposed
to be
dry,
it
should
be
taken
out,
and
the remaining
part
of
the
cover
pasted, when,
after
soaking
a
little,
it
should
be turned
over,
and
the
corners
cut
as neat
as
possible,
when
the
book should
again
be put
into
the stand-
ing-press;
and, after
being taken
out,
the
cover
must
be
washed
with
a
sponge
and
paste-water.
Single Russia
Bands.
—
For additional
strength
to
the
book,
bands
of Russia
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76
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
leather
are
sometimes
drawn
over the
back,
and
worked
on the
boards, with
vellum
thongs. The
back may
be divided
into
seven
equal parts,
three of
which
should be
occupied with the
bands,
viz.
the
centre,
and
half
the
first
and
second
from each
end
:
the
thongs
may
be worked
on in a
diamond shape,
or
in
any other
fanciful way the
binder
may
please.
When the
ends
of the
papers are
pasted
down,
tins
must be
put
in
before placing
the
book
in
the
standing-press,
to
prevent
any
impression
from
the vellum
thongs
appearing
on the leaves of the
book.
Double
Russia Bands.
—For these,
the
back should be
divided into
five
parts,
one
band
occupying
the
centre
portion,
and
reaching
half-Avay on
the
boards
:
the
other two
bands
are
to be placed
at each
extremity of
the
back,
and the
entire
depth
of
the boards, and
worked
on
as
above
described.
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COWIE's
BOOKBINDEK'S
MAi^UAL. 77
FINISHING.
The
lettering-piece
is
to
be
pared,
put
on,
and gilt, as
already
described
;
but
the
roll
for
rough
calf^
is
required
to
be
made
red hot,
or
it
will
not
make sufficient,
nor
so
lasting
an
impression, as when
only
moderately
heated
:
of course the
roll
must
be passed
quickly
over, not
being
allowed
to
rest
for
a
moment
on
any
part
of
the leather.
For
blind-toohng
the
covers, the tools
should be
sufficiently
hot
to
leave
a
clear
and rather
dark
impres-
sion.
—
Previous
to
gilding
vellum^
the
cover
must
be
once
glaired,
and
after
being perfectly
dry,
the portion
intended
for
the
gold must
be
rubbed
over
with
the
oil-rag.
The heat of
the
roll,
or
any
other tool
that
may
be
used
for
vellum,
must
be
about
equal
to
those
used for
finishing
printed
books.
The
roll
must
be
worked
firm
and strong,
to
make
a
good
impression. The
end-papers
are
now
to
be
pasted down,
and
the
iiuier
corners
of
each board to
be
gently
tapped
with the hammer,
when the
book may
be
considered
as
entirely finished.
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78 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
APPENDIX.
COLOURS
FOR BOOK-EDGES.
BROWN.
Boil
equal
portions
of
logwood and
French
berries in rain water;
and,
to
give
a
darker shade
to
the colour,
a
little
copperas
may
be
added
: when
cool,
it
should
be
strained
and
bottled.
PURPLE.
Boil one
ounce
of
powdered alum, four
ounces
of logwood chips, and
a
small
piece
of
copperas,
in
a pint
and
a
half of
soft
water,
until
reduced
to
a
pint, when
the
liquid must be strained.
For
immediate
use,
an
excellent purple
may
be obtained from strong
potash
water
and
Brazil
dust
:
if
it
should remain
long
unused,
it
will
change
to
a
brown.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
79
RED.
Mix together
four
ounces
of
Brazil
dust,
and
one
ounce
of
powdered alum:
boil
them
in half
a
pint of
vinegar,
and
the
same quantity of
water,
till reduced
to
half a pint
:
then
strain
it
through
a
fine cotton
cloth.
If, in addition
to
this
liquid, the edges
be
sprinkled
with
brown and
purple,
it
will
form
a pretty
appearance.
BLUE.
Dissolve one ounce
of finely
powdered
indigo
in
the
same
quantity
of
double
oil
of vitriol,
into
which
throw
a half
a
tea
spoonful
of spirit of
salts.
This
liquid should
be
kept in
an
open
vessel, and
remain
at least
a
week
before
using:
after
reducing
it
with
water, it
will
be
found an
excellent
sprinkle.
GREEN.
Boil one ounce
of
French
berries,
and
a
small quantity of
alum, in
half
a pint
of
soft
water
for
half
an hour.
This
liquid should
be
strained
through
a
piece
of
fine flannel,
and
should
have
a
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80
cowie's
booicbinder's
manual.
small portion of
tlie
liquid
blue
added
to
it
:
it
should
then be
put
in
a
bottle,
and
well
corked
up.
ORANGE.
To
one
ounce
of Brazil
dust
add
half
an
ounce
of
French
berries,
bruised,
and
a small
piece
of
alum;
boil them
in
half
a
pint of
soft
water;
strain
the
colour
and bottle
it
for use.
This
colour
will
have
a
pretty
eiFect
on
the
edges,
if
mixed
with
any
others the
fancy
may
point
out.
GOLD
SPRINKLE.
Put
into
a marble
mortar
half
a book
of gold
leaf, and
a
quarter
of
an ounce
of
honey; work
them
well
together,
until
they
become very
fine
;
add
to
this,
and
mix
well
together,
a
quarter
of
a
pint of
very
clear
water, which, when it has cleared,
pour
off,
and add more,
until
the
honey
is extracted,
and
nothing
but
the
gold
remains. Then mix
half
a
grain
of
cor-
rosive
sublimate
with
half
a
tea-spoonful
of
spirits of
wine,
and
when
dissolved,
put
the same,
together
with
a
small
quan-
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
81
tity
of
thick
gum
water to
the
gold,
and
the
liquid may be
bottled for use.
Previous
to
using the gold
liquid, the
bottle
must
be
well shaken
:
if
sprinkled
in
large
or
small
spots over
a
green,
purple,
or
blue
ground,
it
will
have
a
pretty
effect: after
sprinkling, the
book
should
be
enveloped
in
paper, to
preserve
the
gold from being
soiled.
FANCY
COLOUKING.
Mix
whiting and
water
to a
thick
con-
sistency;
then, having
screwed
the book
tight in
the press,
throw
the
mixture
on
the
edges with
a
small
brush,
either in
spots
or
streaks:
when
nearly
dry,
spot
the
edges
with
green,
blue,
and Brazil
red;
when
quite
dry, shake
off
the
whiting, and brush the edge with a
very
soft brush.
If
a
sprinkle
of
dark blue be
thrown
on
immediately
after
the whiting,
it
will
produce a
beautiful
shaded
edge.
FANCY MARBLING.
Let
the
book
be screwed
tight
iii
the
press, and
place on
the
edge rice
or
pearl
barley
in
a
regular
manner;
then
sprinkle
F
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82
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
the
edge with
any
dark
colour,
till
the
white
paper be
covered,
when the
rice
may
be shaken
off.
Various
colours
may
be used
for this purpose;
and,
previous
to using the rice,
the fore-edge
may
be
coloured
with
yellow
or red.
The preceding recipes,
though
tedious
in preparation,
are
so
excellent
in them-
selves, that
we thought
it
better
not
to
omit
them
:
they
are, however, now
gener-
ally superseded
by mixtures
of
a more
simple
character,
and
which
may,
if
re-
quired,
be
prepared
for
use
in a few
minutes.
They consist
of
the
following,
which,
if
not
already
in
powder,
should
be
bruised
till
brought
to that state,
and
then
mixed
with
paste-
water,
into
which
must
be
thrown
a
few
drops of
sweet
oil
1.
Spirit blue* (diluted
with water).
2.
Brown
umber.
3.
King's
yellow.
4. Dutch pink
(a
yellow).
5.
Spanish
brown.
6.
Vermilion.
*
This
can
be
purchased at
any
respectable
sta-
tioner's, in small
bottles.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
83
MARBLING,
&c.
OF
LEATHER.
The
following
four
liquids
are essential
for several of
tlie
sprinkles
and marbles
hereafter
to
be
described
:
Brown.
—
Dissolve
a quarter of
a pound
of the best
potash
in a pint
of
rain
water
when
clear,
it
may
be
bottled
for use.
Black.—Boil a quarter of a
pound
of
copperas
in
a
quart
of
soft water;
when
properly
settled,
it may
be put into
a
bot-
tle for
use.
Vinegar
Black.
—
Steep
iron
filings
in
vinegar,
or stale
beer, for
about
twenty
hours
;
let
them
boil
quickly
on the fire,
after
which,
when
thoroughly
settled, the
liquid
may
be bottled for
use.
Vitriol
Water.
—
Mix
two
ounces
of the
best
oil
of vitriol with six
ounces
of water,
and
bottle
it
for
use.
DARK
SPRINKLE.
With a
sponge
and weak
potash
water
wash
the
cover
of the book, and place
it,
F
2
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84
cowie's bookbindek's
manual.
immediately afterwards,
between
wands,
with the
boards
extended,
and
sprinkle
it
very
dark
and
fine
with the copperas
water.
In
addition
to
the above
dark
sprinkle,
a
sprinkle
of the
brown
liquid
and
vitriol
water
will
considerably
improve
the
beauty
of
the
cover.
RED
SPOTS.
Mix,
in
a
bottle,
half
a
table
spoonful
of
spirits
of
salts,
one
ounce
of the
best
double
aquafortis, a
quarter
of
an
ounce
of green
tin,
and two
ounces
of rain
water.
The
whole
should
remain
about
twenty
hours
previous
to
using.
In
ad-
dition to
this mixture,
a
portion
of aqua
regia
will be
necessary.
Let
the
cover
of
the book
be
first
blacked
with
copperas
water,
and,
when
dry,
give
it
a
coat
of Brazil
red: then
mix
together
a
portion
of
aqua regia
and
dry
Brazil,
and,
Avhen
thoroughly
settled,
place the book
between wands, and
spot
the
cover
over
with
the
red
liquid.
When
perfectly
dry, the
cover
must
be
washed
with
a
sponge
and
water.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual. 85
yellow spots.
First
black
the cover
of
the
book,
and,
when
perfectly dry,
place it
between
wands
:
then mix
a
portion of aqua
regia
and turmeric
together,
and when
tho-
roughly
settled,
throw
on large
or
small
yellow spots,
as may
suit the fancy.
RED AND YELLOW
SPOTS.
First
black
the cover,
then
place
the
book between the
wands,
throw
on
the
yellow
spots,
and,
when
quite
dry,
throw
on
small
spots
of
the liquid red.
Wash
the cover
with
a
piece of
clean
sponge
and water
:
and
take care
not
to
mix
more
colours with
the spirits
than
are
absolutely wanted.
COMMON
MARBLE.
Let the
cover
be
first
washed
over with
weak
potash
water,
after
which,
it
must
have
one
coat
of
glaire;
when
perfectly
dry, place
the
book
between
the
wands,
and
with
a
brush,
or a
bunch
of
quills,
throw
on
water
in
all
directions,
and im-
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COWIE S
BOOKBINDERS
ilANUAL.
0/
into
a
slight
semicircle.
Sprinkle
witli
water,
copperas
water,
brown,
and
wash
the cover
(as
directed
for
common
marble)^
and it
will
be
found
that
the
bend
in
the
boards has caused
the
liquids
to
run
in
a
suitable direction
for producing
the
in-
tended
eiFect.
ANOTHER MARBLE.
Wash the
cover
with rather strong-
potash
water,
and glaire
it;
when
dry,
place
the
book
between wands, throw on
water,
vinegar
black,
and
lastly
a fine
sprinkle
of
vitriol
water,
which will
be
a
great
improvement
to
the marble.
TRANSPARENT
MARBLE.
Place the book
between the
wands,
marble
the boards
with
a
tree
on
each
centre, and
put
on
each
board an
oval,
made
of
a
thin
piece
of
paper,
and
bind
it
to
the
boards
with pieces
of
lead.
Black
the cover
on the outer parts
of
the
ovals,
and when
thoroughly dry,
go
over
the same
with
strong
basil
water:
then
throw on
red
spots,
and
when
dr}^,
take
off the
ovals;
wash the portion
of
the
cover where
the
red
spots
are
with
a piece
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88
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
of clean
sponge
and
water.
If
the inside
of
the
ovals be coloured
with
the follow-
ing liquid,
it
Avill
have
a
very
pleasing
effect
:
—Mix together
spirits
of wine
and
powdered
turmeric, in
the
proportion
of
half
an ounce
of
the
former
to
half
a
table
spoonful
of
the latter
;
put
the
liquid
into
a
bottle,
shake
it
well,
and
let
it
settle
before
using.
—
Give
the
ovals two
coats of
the
liquid, with
a camel's
hair-
brush
;
and
when done,
cork
the bottle
up
tight,
to
prevent
evaporation.
PURPLE
MARBLE.
When
the
book
is
covered,
and per-
fectly
dry,
rub
the
cover over
with
strong
hot
purple
liquid
(prepared
as
previously
directed), two
or
three
times.
When
dry, glaire the
cover,
and put
the
book
between
wands ;
with
quills
throw
on
water,
and
sprinkle
it
with
strong
vitriol
water,
which
will produce
bright
red
veins.
After
the
colours
are
dry,
they
must
be
washed
with a sponge
and
water.
RICE
MARBLE.
With
spirits
of
wine
and
turmeric
(prepared
as
before
mentioned)
colour
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
89
the
cover,
put the book between wands,
and
throw
on
rice
in
a
regular
way,
ac-
cording
to
fancy
:
then
throw
on
a
neat
sprinkle
of copperas water, till the cover
be
nearly
black;
when
dry,
sprinkle the
cover with
red
liquid
(already
described),
or
potash
water, before the
rice is thrown
off.
EGYPTIAN
MAKBLE.
Previous
to
covering the book,
colour
the
leather
with
Scott's
liquid
blue,*
and
immerge it in
water,
to extract
the spirit
after remaining in
the
water
about half
an
hour,
take
it
out,
and place
it
between
pieces of
bro'wn
paper, till nearly
dry:
then
cover
the
book,
and
place
it
a
small
distance
from
the fire,
till
thoroughly
dry,
when it
must
be
glaired.
Place the book
between
wands, and
throw on it
potash
water,
with
a
bunch
of quills,
and lastly,
a
very
fine
sprinkle
of
the
vinegar
black.
When the
book
is
nearly
dry,
it
must be
washed with
a
sponge
and
water.
STONE MAEBLE.
Glaire
the
cover
in
the
usual
way,
and
*
To be
purchased
at
any
colour shop.
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90
COWIE'S
bookbinder's
ALA-NUAL.
when thoroughly
dry,
put
the book into
the
cutting-
press,
with
the
boards
some-
what
sloping,
so
that
the
colours
may run
gently
down.
Witli
a
brush,
throw
on
copperas
water
rather
freely,
and
dip a
piece of sponge
into some
strong potash
water,
and
press
it
out
on
different
parts
of
the
back, so
that
the
colours
may
run
gently
down
each
side
;
where
the brown
has left a
vacancy,
vitriol
water
should
be
applied in
the same
manner.
After
the
colours are
perfectly
dry,
wash
the
cover
with
a
clean
sponge and
water.
GREEN
MARBLE.
In
addition
to
the
preceding marble,
use
Scott's
liquid
blue
in
the
same
manner
as
the
other
colours,
and.
previous to
finishing the
marble
with
vitriol
water.
WAINSCOT
MARBLE.
Colour
the cover
with
the
strong
brown
liquid
already
mentioned,
and
glaire
it;
then
place
the book
between
wands, with
the boards
flat
and
even.
Throw on
water
till every
part
of the
boards
be
covered
: then
take
a
sufficient
portion of
copperas water
in
the
brush,
and
dash it
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.- 91
freely
on
the
boards;
do
the same
Avith
potash
water
;
and
finally,
throw
on
a
bold
sprinkle of
vitriol
water.
—
This is
a
beautiful
marble,
if done
with
attention
and
care.
ANOTHER
MARBLE.
First
black the cover with copperas
water,
and
when
dry,
give
it two coats
of
strong
Brazil water. Mix whiting and
water
to
rather a thick consistency, and
throw
it on
the cover in
spots
or streaks,
and
let it
remain
till dry
;
then
give
the
cover
a
bold sprinkle of
the
liquid red
already mentioned.
CHINESE MARBLE.
First
colour the cover with a
dark
brown,
and then place the book
between
wands
; use
whiting and
water as above
directed,
and let
it remain
till
dry.
Sprinkle the cover with
liquid
blue, after
which,
throw on large
spots of
the
liquid
red.
When
the colours
are
perfectly
dry,
wash
oiF
the whiting.
RED
MARBLE.
Previous
to
covering
the
book,
the
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92
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
cover
must
be
immerged for
near
three
quarters
of
an hour in
weak
lime
water,
and
afterwards
dried
between
sheets
of
brown
paper.
Then,
mix
half an
ounce
of
Brazil dust,
half
a
tea
spoonful
of
pow-
dered
cochineal, a
small
piece of alum,
and
a
quarter
of
a
pint
of
the
best
vine-
gar
: boil these
on a
slow fire, till the
whole
produce
a
bright
red.
While
this
liquid
is
hot,
colour
the cover
two
or
three times
over,
and then
immerge
it
in
water,
in
which
a
piece
of
alum
has
been
previously
dissolved. Now draw the
cover
on,
and
let
it
be
perfectly dry
;
then
glaire
it,
and put
the
book between
wands
throw
on
potash
water
with quills,
and
sprinkle
it
with
vinegar
black.
If
a
few
drops
of
aqua
regia be
added
to
the liquid
previous
to
covering the cover,
it
will
give
it
a
much brighter
and
more
perma-
nent
red.
JAPAN MARBLE.
Give
the
cover one
coat
of potash
water, two
of
Brazil
wash,
and
glaire
it
then
place
the
book between wands in
such
a
position
that
the
boards
slope
a
little
:
dash
on copperas
water ;
then
hav-
ing
a piece
of
sponge full
of
the red
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cowie's
bookbindek's
manual.
93
liquid in
readiness, press out
on
the
back
and
on different
parts
large drops,
which
should run down
on
each board,
and will
by
this
means
produce
a
fine
shaded
red.
After the cover
is perfectly dry,
it
should
be
washed
over
two
or
three times
with
Brazil
wash,
which
will
give
the
colour
a
brighter appearance.
COLOURS
FOR
LEATHER.
It
sometimes
occurs,
that
books
which
are
marbled
on the
sides,
have
their
backs
of
one entire
colour
: when
such
is the case,
previous
to
marbling,
&c.,
a
piece
of
thin
paste-board
must
be
placed
on
the
back,
to
prevent
any
of
the
colours
affecting
it.
The following
liquids will
be
found
to
answer
every
purpose
for
colouring
:
Brown.
—
A
quarter
of
a
pound
of
pot-
ash
dissolved
in a
pint
of
rain
water;
when
settled,
bottle
it
for
use.
Blue.
—
Colour
first with
copperas
water,
and
afterwards
give
two
coats
of
hquid
blue.
Green.
—
Colour
twice
with Scott's
liquid
blue,
and
when
dry, wash the
leather
three
or
four
times
with
a
clean
sponge and
water.
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94
cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
Purple.
—
Rub
on
some strong
purple
liquid
(already
described)
near the fire,
three or
four times at least,
and when
dry, wash
well
with clear water.
Lead colour.
—
Colour
well
with cop-
peras
water,
or
copperas
and potash
water
mixed.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
95
MARBLING
PAPER,
&c.
WATER
MAEBLING.
There
are .
several sorts
of marbled
paper;
but
the
principal
difference
lies in
the
forms in which the
colours
are laid
on
the
ground,
some
being
disposed
in
whirls
or circumvolutions,
some
in jagged
lengths, and
others
only in
spots
of
a
roundish
or oval figure.
The
general
method
of
managing
each
kind
is, never-
theless,
the
same.
The
peculiar
apparatus
necessary
for this
purpose,
is,
a trough
for
the
floating
of
the
colours,
a quill
and
comb for
disposing
them
in
the
figure
usually
chosen,
and
a
burnishing-
stone
for
polishing the paper.
The
trough
may
be
of
any kind
of wood, and
must be
some-
what
larger than the
sheets of
paper,
for
marbling
of
which
it is
to
be
employed;
but
the
sides
of
it
should
only
rise
about
two inches
above the
bottom.
The
comb
may
also
be
of
wood, and about
five
inches
in
length,
but should
have
brass
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96
COWIE'S
BOOIvBINDER's
]\LA2JUAL.
teeth,
which
may be about
two
inches long,
and
placed
at
about
a
quarter
of
an
inch
distance
from each other.
The
burnishing-stone
may
be of
jasper
or
agate; but
as
those stones
are very
dear
when
of
sufficient largeness, marble
or
glass
may
be
used,
provided
their
sur-
face
be
polished
to
a greater
degree
of
smoothness.
These
implements
being
pre-
pared,
make
a
solution of
gumtraga-
canth, or,
as
it is
commonly called,
gum-
dragon^
by
putting
a
sufficient
proportion
of the
gum
(which
should
be
white,
and
clear
from all
foulness)
into clean
water,
and
let
it
remain
there a day
or
two,
frequently breaking
the
lumps, and
stirring
it
till
the
whole
appear
dissolved,
and
equally
mixed
with
the
water : the
con-
sistence
of
the
solution
should
be
nearly
that
of strong gum
water used
in
miniature
painting;
if
it
appear
thicker,
add water
to
it
; if
thinner,
more
of
the gum.
When
the
solution
is
thus
brought to a
due
state,
pass
it
through
a
linen cloth, and then
put it
into
the
trough,
when it
will
be
ready
to
receive
the colours
:
these
are
as
follow
:
—
For
Red^
carmine,
lake,
rose
pink,
and vermilion;
but the
two
last
are
too
hard and
glaring,
unless
they be
mixed
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
97
with rose
pink, or
lake,-
to
bring
them
to
a
softer
cast;
and,
with
respect to
the
car-
mine and
lake,
they
are too
dear
for
com-
mon
purposes
—for
Yellow^
king's
yellow,
or
Dutch
pink
and
yellow
ochre
may
be
employed
—
for
Blue^
Prussian
blue
and
verditer
may
be
used
—
for
Green^
verdi-
gris,
a
mixture
of
Dutch
pink and
Prus-
sian
blue or
verditer,
in different
propor-
tions
—
for
Orange^ orange
lake, or
a
mixture of
vermillion,
or
red
lead,
with
Dutch
pink
—
for
Purple^
rose
pink
and
Prussian
blue—
for White,
flake white
for Black,
lamp
black—for
Brown,
black
and
yellow.
Having
these colours
in
readiness,
grind
them
on
a
marble
slab
with
spirit
of
wine,
till
they
are
very
fine ;
and
at
the
time
of
using them, add
a
little fish
gall, or
in default of it,
the
gall
of a beast,
by
grinding
them
over
again
with
it.
The
proper proportion
of
the
gall
must
be
found
by
trying
them
for
there must
be
just
so
much
as
will
suffer
the
spots
of
colour,
when
sprinkled
on
the
solution
of
the
gum
tragacanth,
to
join together,
without
intermixing
or
running
into
each
other.
When
every-
thing
is thus
prepared,
pour into the
trough
the solution
of
the gum
traga-
G
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98
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
canth
;
then,
having
the colours
intended
to
be
used
in
separate
pots,
with
a pencil
or
brush
appropriated
to
each,
sprinkle
them
on the surface
of
the
solution
(be-
ginning with
the
darkest
colours
first)
by
shaking the
pencil
or
brush charged
with
the
particular colour
over
it,
till
the
sur-
face
be
wholly
covered
; when
the
marble
is
proposed
to
be of
a
simple
form,
nothing
more
is necessary;
but where
whirls
or
snail-shell
figures
are wanted,
they
must
be made
by
means
of a
quill, which
must
be
put
among the
spots to turn
them
about,
till the
effect
be
produced
:
jagged
lengths
(or
what
is
termed comb-marble)
must
be
made
by
means
of
the comb
above
described,
which
must
be
passed
through
the
colours from
one
end
of
the
trough to
the
other, and
will
give
them
that
appearance;
but, if they be
desired
to
be
poipted both ways,
the
comb
must
be
again
passed
through
the
trough
in
ji
contrary
direction;
or, if
some of the
whirls
or
snail-shell figures
be
required
to be
added,
they may yet
be
made
by
means
before
directed
:
indeed,
by
a little
contrivance,
numerous
forms
may
be
given
to
the
colours.
The
paper
shoidd
be
previously
prepared
for receiving
the
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cowie's bookbinder's
jIANUAL.
99
colours, by
dipping
it over night in water,
and
laying
the
sheets
on
each
other with
a
weight
over
them.
The
whole
being
thus
ready,
hold the
paper
by
two corners,
and
lay
it in the
most gentle and
even
manner
on the
solution
covered with the
colours,
and
softly
press
it
with
the
hand,
that
it
may
bear
everywhere on
the solu-
tion
:
after
which,
raise
it, and
take
it
off
with
the
same
care, and then
hans;
it
to
dry
across
a
proper
card,
subtended
near
at
hand
for
that
purpose;
and
in
that
state
let
it continue
till
it
be
perfectly
dry.
It
then
remains
only
to
give
the
paper
a proper
polish
; in order
to
which,
first
rub
it
with
a
little
soap,
and
then
smooth
it
with
glass
polishers,
such
as
are
used for
linen,
and called
calender-glasses
after which,
again
rub it with
a
burnisher
of
jasper
or
agate
;
or,
in
default of these,
with
glass
ground
to
the highest
polish
for
on
the
perfect polish
of the
paper
depends,
in
a
great measure,
its beauty
and
value.
Gold
or
silver powders
may
be
used,
where
desired,
along
with
the
colour,
and
require
only the
same treat-
ment
as
them,
except
that
they
must
be
first
tempered
with
gum-water. In
marbling
book-edges,
tie the
books
tight between
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100 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
cutting-boards:
having
done this,
only-
dip the
edges
in,
on
the
top
of
the
water
and
colours,
very
lightly;
which
done,
take them
oft', and the
plain
impression
of the
colours
in
mixture
Avill be
upon
the
leaves,
along
the
head
and
tail, as
well
as
the
fore-edge, in
like
manner.
If
some
clear
water
be
dashed
upon
the
edges
im-
mediately
after marbling,
it
will
give
the
colours -a
clearer
appearance,
and,
what
is
termed
set
them
: nor need
the
superfluous
colours
in
the
tub
be
wasted;
for
they
may be
again
intermixed,
and
a sheet
of
paper
dipped in
as
before
described,
which,
though
imperfect
in
some
parts,
will
serve
for common
purposes.
SOAP
MARBLING.
The
discovery
of
this method
of
mar-
bling
is
of a
much
more recent
date
than
the
preceding,
and
the process
is
exceed-
ingly
simple ;
it
will be
found
to
answer
every
purpose
equally
well
with water
marble,
and
has
been successfully used for
the
edges
of
stationery
books. Precisely the
same
apparatus,
in
every
respect,
as
used
for
water
m^irbling,
is
required
for
this pro-
cess : the
only difference between
the two
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COWIE'S
bookbinder's
IMANUAL. 101
methods
consists
in
preparing
the
colours,
and
in
throwing
them
on
the
surface
of
hard clear water instead
of
a
solution of
gum-dragon.
The
colours,
instead of
being
ground
with gall and
spirit
of wine,
must
now
be
ground
with
water,
and
brown
and
white soap.
Any colours
of
a
light
substance,
and those
already
men-
tioned,
are
as
well
suited
to
this
marble
as
the preceding,
but
care
must
be
taken
to
grind
the
ground-colour,
that
is,
the
colour thrown on
first,
with
brown
soap,
and
that used
for
the
veins with
lohite
soap,
observing
always to
throw
on
the
dark
colours
first.
For
instance,
if
Prus-
sian
blue
be intended
for
a
ground-colour,
it must
be
ground with
hroivn soap
and
water,
on a
marble
slab,
until
it contain
a consistency sufiiciently
pliable
to
be
thrown
on
with
a
pencil or
brush.
If
king's yellow
be
ground with
white
soap,
in the
same
way
as
the
preceding, and
thrown
over
the
body of Prussian blue,
the
former
will
run into
veins, while
the
latter will
form
a
sort of
ground
;
and
the
same
may
be observed
of
all
colours,
provided the
one
be
ground
with
brown
soap, and
the
other with
white
; we
will,
however,
state a few particular
colours
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102
co^^^E's
bookbinder's
manual.
—
If
green
be
intended
for
a
ground-
colour,
it must also
be
ground
with
brown
soap, and may
be
united
with
king's
yellow, ground
with
white
soap,
which
will
cause
it
to
run
into veins. Lake
may
also
be
used
for
a
ground-colour,
ground
with
brown
soap,
and
Prussian blue ground
with white
soap.
Brown
umber
(ground
with
brown soap)
will
also
form a good
ground-colour, and
flake
white,
ground
with
white
soap,
the
veins.
VEIN
MARBLING.*
The
following,
though
not
generally
adopted,
will
be
found
an
excellent
method
of
forming a
beautiful
veined
marble upon
paper:
—
j\Iake
a
middling
thick
size,
or
paste, of flour
and water,
to
which add a
little powdered
alum,
and
then
boil
it
in the
same
manner
as
paste.
Put
some
of the
size,
when
cool,
into
several
pots,
and
mix
with
it any of
the
colours
(ground
with
water) already mentioned.
Then,
with
brushes
(having
one
for
each
pot)
spread
a
quantity
of
the
colours selected,
very
even,
on
a
flat
piece
of marble,
or
other
smooth
stone,
or
on
a
smooth board,
or a
table,
according
to
the length
and
width
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COWIES
BOOKBINDERS
MANUAL.
lUo
of the
sheet of
paper.
On
the
coloured
size
thus
spread, lay a strong
plate
of
glass, or one of tin
or
copi)er,
or
a thin
piece
of board,
pressing the
plate
(of
whatever
sort)
gently
with
the
hand on
every
part.
Raise the plate, by
lifting
up
one
end,
and
it
will
be
found
veined
in every direction,
by
the
adhesiveness
of
the
size
;
immediately
lay
the plate thus
prepared
on
the paper, and
with
the
hand
again gently press
on
every
part
of
the
plate,
which
will
vein
or
marble
the
paper
with the same figures as
were
on
the
sized
plate.
If
the
plate of glass (which
is preferable,
but
exceptionable
on
account
of
its
brittleness) be not pressed
too
hard,
a
second
impression,
with
a
beautiful
sort
of
smaller sized veins, may
be
had
from
the
first colouring;
and
thus
for
as many
different
colours
as
are
desired
on
the
surface, there needs
only a repetition
of
the
size
containing
them.
A
neat
tor-
toise-shell appearance, and
a
great variety
of
expressive figures,
may
be produced
this way,
as
also
by
various actions
of
the
fingers
upon
the
plate, before the
size
loses
its
moisture,
and
likewise
by
many
times
gently folding
the
paper.
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104
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
SPLASH
PAPER.
The
paper
intended
for
,
this
purpose,
previous
to
applying the colours,
must
be
sprinkled with alum water, in the propor-
tion
of
a
quarter
of
a
pound
of
the
one,
dissolved
in one quart of
the
other. The
paper
must then be
placed
between
boards,
and screwed
tight
in
the standing press,
or heavy
weights
laid
on the
upper
board,
in order
that
the paper
may
be
equalized
in
dampness;
it should
remain
in
this
state
about
six
hours.
The colours
in-
tended for
the
sprinkle
are
to
be
steeped
twelve
hours
in
their
respective quantities
of
vinegar
and
water,
into
which
is
to
be
thrown
a
small
quantity
of
bruised
alum
it is then to be
boiled
over
a
slow
fire,
and
afterwards
strained through
a piece
of
fine flannel,
or cotton cloth, till
quite
pure.
The following
colours
being
pre-
pared
as
above
described,
will
be
ready
for
throwing on the
paper.
Yellow.
—
A quarter
of
a
pound
of
bruised French berries,
half
a pint
of
vinegar, and
the
same
quantity of
water.
Dark
red.
—
A
quarter
of
a
pound
of
Brazil
dust,
half
a
pint
of
vinegar, and
the
same quantity
of
water.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual. 105
Bright
red.
—
In
addition
to the
pre-
ceding,
add,
previous
to
colouring,
a
few
drops of
aqua
regia.
Green.
—A
quarter
of
a
pound of
bruised French
berries,
one
ounce
of
liquid
blue,
half
a
pint
of
vinegar,
and
the
same
quantity
of
water.
Purple.
—A
pound
of
logwood
chip,
with
a
pint
of vinegar, and
the
same
quantity
of water.
Brown.—
Mix
together half
an
ounce
of
Brazil
dust
with one
ounce
of
strong
potash
water; this,
however,
is
not
to be
boiled,
but
should remain
till the
colour
change
from
a
purple to a light
brown.
We
should not enter into
a description
of
the
various
splashes,
but
leave
them
to the
fancy
of
the
binder.
Good
taste
and
a little practice,
will
enable
him
to
form
patterns
of
some
beauty
and
in
con-
siderable variety. We
must
here
observe,
that
the
light
colours
should be
thrown
on first; and
that the paper,
after
splash-
ing,
is
to be burnished in precisely
the
same
way as marbled
paper.
We
mil
give
two
splashes
out
of
the
number
that
they
may be
formed from
the
colours
above
given
:
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106
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
PURPLE
SPLASH.
Small
stones
must
be
placed at
a
little
distance
from each
other,
and the
sheet
of paper laid
upon
them;
then
with a
brush the purple
liquid should
be
thrown
on
in large
or small
splashes,
as
may
best
suit
the fancy.
TOliTOISE-SHELL.
Black
ink
should
first
be
splashed
on
the paper, then
red,
and
finally yellow
spots
where
the
paper is white.
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cowie's bookbinder's
manual. 107
MISCELLANEOUS
RECIPES.
GILDING PAPER,
&C.
It
will
first be
requisite
to
j)repare
the
gold
size; this is made
by adding the
white
of
an egg
to
double
the
quantity
of
water, and
a
tablespoonful
of bullock's
blood,
which
must
be
taken
from
the
top
after
it
has
settled a little
:
they
must be
well
beat together
for
near
an
hour,
and
the whole
must
stand
two
days before
using.
The paper should
be
well
pressed,
and
after
being
cut,
made
very
smooth
with
a
piece
of
tempered
spring,
called
clock-spring,
about
four
inches
long, and
from
two
to two-and-a-half inches
wide,
rounded at
each
end, or
a steel
scraper.
The
gilding
boards
are
now
to
be
put
even
on
each
side
of
the
paper, and
to be
lowered into
the
cutting-press,
level with
the
cheeks,
and
to be
screwed
as tight
as
possible,
then
to be
sponged
over
with
yellow
ochre, and
the
size
mixed
together,
and
must
afterwards
be rubbed with
paper
shavings,
until
quite dry,
when
it
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108
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
must
be well
burnished
with
the
tooth.
The
gold
leaf
is
now
to
be
cut
into
strips,
after
which,
a
piece
of
paper,
previously
rubbed
on
the
forehead,
should
be
laid
gently on the
gold,
which
will
adhere
to
the
paper,
and
in
the
same
way
more
must
be
added,
until
there
be
sufficient
to
cover
the entire edge.
With
a camel's
hairbrush the edge
must now be
thickly
covered
with
the
size,
and
immediately
after
the
paper and gold must
be
held
with
the
fingers
of
each
hand,
and
laid
gently on
the edge. AVhen
the whole
is
covered,
the
press
may be a little raised
at
one
end,
which will allow
the size
to
run
from
under
the
gold.
The
gold
should
be
dried
gradually,
and
if
possible,
in the
sun ;
the edges, when perfectly
dry,
are
ready
for
burnishing
; but to ascertain
this, the
gold
should
be
breathed
on,
and
if it
immediately become bright, it may
be
burnished
with safety; for this
pur-
pose
a
dog's
tooth, or agate stone,
should
be used
;
the
latter, however,
is
preferable.
TO
BLACK COVERS.
Steep
iron
filings
in vinegar for twenty-
four
hours, give
it
a
quick
boil
on
the
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
109
fire,
and, when
settled,
strain it.
Having
this in
readiness,
sponge
the
covers
well
with
chamber-lye
and
potash water
;
black
them over
once with
copperas,
and
then
rub the
vinegar
(prepared as
above
di-
rected)
once
over.
TO
COLOUR
VELLUM
GREEN.
Dissolve
half an
ounce
of
verdigris in
half an ounce of the best
white
wine vine-
gar,
pour
the
mixture
into
a bottle,
and
place
it near
a
fire
for four
or five days,
shaking
the bottle
half a dozen
times each
day.
Wash the vellum
over
with
rather
weak
potash
water,
and colour
it
over
three
or
four
times
with
the
green
liquid.
RED INK.
Mix
together
a
(quarter
of
a
pound
of
Brazil
dust,
a quarter of
an
ounce
of
cochineal,
a small
piece
of lump sugar,
and
two
quarts
of vinegar
:
let
these
steep
ten
hours,
and
afterwards
boil them
on a
slow
fire,
till
of
a
good
red
colour.
When
settled,
strain
the
ink through
a piece
of
fine
cotton,
and
bottle
it for use.
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110
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
BLUE INK.
A
good
blue ink
may
be obtained
by
diffusing
Prussian blue or
indigo
through
strong
gum-water.
The
common
water-
colour
cakes,
diffused also in
gum-water,
will produce
a
tolerably
good
blue
for
common
purposes:
but
Dyer's blue,
di-
luted
with
water,
is
preferable
to
either.
SLATE
PAPER.
Boil
water
and
glue
to
a
tolerably
good
consistency ;
while
on
the
iire,
throw lamp
black
and finely
-powdered
emery
into it.
Then,
with
a
fine
brush,
give the paper
two
coats
of
the
liquid.
PASTE.
Mix
flour and
water, in
the
proportion
of
a quarter of
a pound
of the one
to
a
quart
of the other
;
stir this well together,
and
throw
into
it
a
piece
of
alum,
about
the
size of
a
nut
:
let
it
boil
a,
short
time,
and,
when cold,
it
will
be
fit
for use.
This
proportion will
produce
a
thick
paste
for
leather;
but,
when used for
paper, it
must
be
diluted
with
water,
which
should
also
1)0
poured
on
the
paste unused,
as
that
will tend
to preserve it.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual. Ill
A
SCALE
OF
DIMENSIONS FOR CUTTING
BOOKS
IN
VELLUM
BINDING.
[N.B.
—
In
this Table
the
Depth
of
the Book is
given,
and
not
the
width,
as
that
is
usually regulated by
pattern
;
in
all
cases
leaving
(in
ruled
i)ooks) sufficient
margin for the pence and
fractional
parts.]
SIZE
OF
BOOKS.
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112
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
a
table
of
trade
chargee
Denomination
of
the
various
styles
of
Binding.
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cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
113
>r
the
various
bindings.*
Plain.
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114 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
CHARGE
FOR MACHINE
ROLLING.
Desckiptiow
of
Wokk.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
115
CHAEGES FOR FOLDING,
SEWING,
AND
STITCHING.
Denomination
of
Work.
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116
cowie's booivBinder's
manual.
CHARGES
TO
THE
PUBLIC
FOR
VARIOUS BINDINGS.
It
is not
intended,
in
the following
List,
to
enter
into
the minute
charges
of
bindings
of
every description;
but care
has
been
taken
to
form
them
upon
a
prin-
ciple
of protection to
the
Binder,
and
of
fairness
to
the
public:
great
accuracy,
however, in
such
intricate
calculations
must be
considered as
nearly
impossible
for
it
not
unfrequently occurs,
that
the
Binder
cannot
fix
the
precise
charge
until
he
has
ascertained
the labour
and
expense
by
the
completion
of
the
volume.
Indeed,
to
the eye
of
a common
ob-
server,
there
may be no
difference
between
a volume
which has occupied five
days
in
finishing,
and one
that
has
occupied
only
so
many
hours.
The
charge
of
a volume
of
the
same
binding also
depends
upon
the
number
of
sheets
;
for
a book
consist-
ing of
twenty
sheets,
must
evidently
con-
sume
more
leather,
and in
several
ways
be
more
expensive
than one consisting
of
only ten
;
nevertheless,
we
will
endeavour
to
form
a sort
of average
for
the greater
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
117
variety
of
bindings, making
the
calcula-
tions
on
sheets,
and
presuming
each
respective
volume
to
contain about
the
following proportions
24mo
.
..
18mo ...
12mo
...
8vo ...
Royal
8vo
Demy
4to.
Demy
Folio.
Books
published
in numbers
are
gene-
rally charged
more
for,
according
to
the
trouble,
as
they are
generally
very
badly
folded in the first place, and most
com-
monly
much ill-used
before they
are
sent
to
bind.
360
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118 cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
MOROCCO.*
Note.
—
A
fillet
is
a
line
of
gold
thus
,
if
it
is
more
than
one line it is
called
a two-lined
fillet,
&c.
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cowie's
bookbindee's
manual.
119
CALF.
Note.
—
Super
Extra
is
not
put
down
here,
as
it
must
be
charged
according
to
the
quantity of
work.
Half-calf
to
be
finished
the same
as
whole-calf
at
the
back,
Avhether
lettered
or
gilt.
Whole-sheep
the
same
as
half-calf.
Half-Russia
the
same
as
whole-calf.
r
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120
co \vie's
bookbinder's
manual.
SHEEP
Is seldom
used,
except
for
School
Books,
and
when
it is,
it is
usually Sheep
lettered,
which is
the
same
as
half-calf
lettered.
BOARDS.
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cowie's bookbinder's
manual. 121
A
SCALE
OF
DIMENSIONS
FOR
CUTTING IN
BOARDS.
[N.B.—
The
Dimensions given in
this
Table
may
be con-
sidered
a
general
standard
for the
squares
of all Boards,
from
Eighteens
to Folio, the book itself
being
cut
something
under.]
«
SIZE
or
WOBK.
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122
CO
wie's
bookbinder's
manual.
TABLE
OF
WEIGHT
AND
SIZE
OF
PAPERS.
Writing, Drawing, and Printing
Papers.
[Xote.
—
This
Table
applies more to the
Vender than
the Manufacturer;
but as
both
are occasicmally
combined,
we
have
tliniipht
it
advisable
to
give
it
a
pl.we
in
this
work.
—From time to time
the Dntj'
on
I'aper
has
undergone
a
considerable
change;
it
is
now
unifonn,
and
has
been
fixed
at
three-halfpence per pound.]
R
stands for
Ream
B
for Bundle.
Names
of
Papers.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
123
TABLE
OF
WEIGHT,
ETC.
Writing,
Drawing,
and
Printing
Papers
—
continued.
Names
of Papers.
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124 cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
TABLE
OF
WEIGHT,
ETC.
Coloured and
Wiiited
Brown
Papers
—
continued.
Names
of Papers.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual. 125
tables of
dimensions,
weight,
etc., of
millboard,
WITH
ITS
APPLICABILITY
TO VARIOUS BINDINGS.
TABLE
I.
Prices,
Numbering, and Dimensions
of
Millboard,
tvith
the
Quantity
contained
in
a
Hundred
Weight.
[The
X and
xx
adjoined to
the figures
in
tlie
second column,
express the
mark of
hoards
of various
substances
;
thus,
a
double
cross elghtpenny
is
rather thicker
than a single cross eightpenny.]
NAMES OF
B0AEL8.
Marked
in
Chalk.
Quantity
in
a
cwt.
Length
in
iuches.
Breadth
POT.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
^ightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
FOOLSCAP.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
CROWN.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
—
thick
Tenpenny
P.
E.G.
xx8
X
6
7
8
x8
xx8
X
x8
xx8
2571
201
j
179
I
127
100
80
254
207
151
I
97
70j
151 .
123
f
Q7
224'
173
148
104
77
57
17J
18i
201
14^
14^
16i
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126
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
TABLE
I.
continued.
NAMES
OF
BOARDS.
Marked
in
Chalk.
Quantity
in a
cwt.
Length
in
inches.
SHORT.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
thick
Tenpenny
LARGE.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
—
thick
Tenpenny
SMALL
HALF
ROYAL
Sevenpenny
Eiglitpenny,
thin
common
—
thick
Tenpenny
LARGE
HALF
ROYAL.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
xx8
M.
L.
x8
xx8
6
7
8
x8
xx8
X
s.n.R.
7
8
x8
xx8
L.II.R.
7
xx8
233'
183
131
95
.72
52
191^
162
114
86
60
50
1721
120
110
83
64
52
197'
181
139
84
70
186~
147
108
84
62
21
24
20}
i^l,l
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
127
TABLE I.
continued.
NAMES
OF
BOARDS.
SMALL
KOTf
AL.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thia
common
thick
Tenpenny
LARGE
ROYAL.
Sevenpenny
.
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
ATLAS.
Sixpenny .
Eightpenny,
common
thick
lenpenny
LARGE
ATLAS.
Eiglitpenny
com.
or
Port
Eolios
thick
Tenpenny
DODBLE
ELEPHANT
or Large
Boards
•\
Marked
in
Chalk.
S.R.
L.K.
xx8
x8
xx8
X
6
x8
xx8
X
P. F. x8
•
xx8
X
Blank
Quantity
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128
cowie's
bookbindee's
manual.
TABLE 11.
The various Prices and Substances
of
Millboard,
as suitable to
various
sorts
of
Vellum
Binding.
NAMES
OF
BOARDS.
POT.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpeuny
Eiglitpenny,
thin
common
Tenpenny
thick
CKOWN.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
thick
Tenpenny
SHORT.
Sixpenny
. .
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
tliin
i
common
thick
Tenpenny
SITITABLB
FOB
VELLUM
BINDmG.
FOOLSCAr.
2 qr. half-bound,
and
16
to 20
sheet
4to.
boards
or
forrel.
2 qr.
vellum,
or 1 qr.
4to.
3 qr.
vellum
or
forrel,
or 1
\
qr
4to.
4
and
5
qr.
vellum,
. >
qr.
forrel,
or
2
qr. and
upwards
4to.
6
qr. vellum,
6
and
7
qr.
forrel.
8
to 10
qr.
Russia
bands,
or rough
calf.
DEMT.
Thin 8vo. bazil.
20
sheets
4to., thin
Svo.
bazil,
and
file prints.
1
qr.
4to.
forrel,
12
sheets
Svo.
and
file prints.
2
qr. vellum,
3
qr. forrel,
2
qr.
and
upwards
4to.
3
and
4
qr.
vellum,
4 and
5 qr.
forrel.
5, 6,
and
7
qr.
vellum,
6
and
7
qr.
for. or sup.
royals,
rough calf.
FOOLSCAP.
16
sheets
4to.
2 qr. forrel, and
20
sheets
4to.
2
qr. vel.
3 qr.
for.
and
1 qr.
4to,
3
qr.
vel.
4
qr.
for.
and 1
\
qr.
4to.
4
and
5
qr. vel.
5 and
6 qr. for.
6
qr.
and upwards,
vel.
or
for.
(This
bojird
cuts
out
two
broad
and
one
long
folio, also
3
pair
4to.
or 3
long
folio.
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COWIE's
bookbinder's
Mi^UAL.
129
TABLK
11.
continued.
NAMES
OF BOABDS.
MIDDLE.
Sixpenny
Sevenpenny
.
Eightpenny,
thin
common
tiiick
:}
Tenpenny
SMALL
HALF ROYAL.
Sevenpenny .
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
;|
Tenpenny
LARGE
HALF
ROYAL.
Sevenpenny
.
.
)
Eightpenny,
thin
.
\
common
•
thick
Tenpenny
SMALL
ROYAL.
Eightpenny,
common
LARGE ROYAL.
Eightpenny,
common
Eightpenny,
thick
Tenpenny
SUITABLE
FOE
\'ELLUM
BINDING.
M'JDIUM.
To
line
a thiu board,
medium
or
impei'hU.
8vo.
forr^i
or
hazil.
1 qr.
4to.
vellum
or
forrel.
2
anil
3 qr.
vel.
3
and 4
qr. for.
5
and
6 qr. vellum,
6
and
7
qr.
forrel.
—Imperial
4
qr.
ROYAL.
To
line
a thin
board,
and for
alphabets.
2 qr. vellum
or forrel.
3 and 4
qr.
vellum, 4 and
5
qr.
forrel.
i
5
and
6 qr.
vellum,
6 and
7.
qr.
forrel.
SUPER
ROYAL.
To line
a
thin
board, and
for
alphabets.
2
qr.
vellum
or
forrel.
3
and
4
qr.
vellum,
4 and
5
qr.
'
forrel.
i
5
and
6
qr.
vellum,
6
and
7 qr.
j
forrel.
I
For
the
same
purpose,
when
cut
in
two,
as
Small Half
Royal.
For the same purpose,
when
cut
in
two,
as
Large Half
Royal.
IMrEUIAL.
4
and
.5
qr.
(
without
being
8 and 10
qr.
^
lined.
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130
cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
TABLE
III.
The
various Prices
and
Substances
of
Millboard,
ns
suitable
to
various
Sorts
o/
Leather
Binding.
NAMES
OF
BOAEDS.
SUITABLE FOB LEATHEK
BINDING.
POT.
Eightpenny,
thick
Tenpenny
FOOLSCAP.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick .
Tenpenny
CROWN.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
; common
'
thick
Tenpenny
siionT.
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
Sixpenny
.
Sevenpenny
POT.
Small
law folios.
FOOLSCAP.
[
8vos. in boards.
8vos.
Svos.
thick.
f
4tos.
and
folios.
CROWN.
Spelling
books,
&c.
12mos. small
common
prayers,
&c.
>
Svos. minion
bibles,
&c.
4tos.
and
folio
music.
Folios.
COPT.
[
12rao.
boards.
12raos.
Svos.
Svos.
and
4tos.
4tos.
and
folios.
Spellings,
&c.
Testaments
and
thin
12mo6.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
131
TABLE
III.
continued.
NAMES OF BOARDS. SUITABLE
FOB
LEATHEK BINDING.
Eightpenny,
tliin
common
thick .
Tenpenny
LARGE.
Sixpenny
,
Sevenpenny
Ei
htpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
SMALL
HALF
ROYAL,
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
LARGE
HALF ROYAL
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
common
thick
Tenpenny
SMALL
ROYAL.
Sevenpenny
Eightpennj'-, thin
common
thick
12mos.
8vos.
8vo. dictionaries
and
thin 4tos.
4tos.
and
folios.
MEDIUM.
)
12mos. thin,
and
derays
in
^
boards.
12mos.
Svos. and thin
4t08.
Tliick
Svos.
and
4tos.
4tos.
and fohos.
)
Small
paper.
I
J
>
Svos. in boards.
Svos.
and boarded 4tos.
4tos. and
folios.
u
Tenpenny
LARGE
ROYAL.
Sevenpenny
Eightpenny,
thin
Small
paper,
and 8vo.
in boards.
Small
paper,
portfolios,
&c.
[-
8vo. in boards.
1 2
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132
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
TABLE
in.
continued.
NAMES
OF
BOARDS.
SriTABLE
FOB
LEATHER
KINDIKO.
common
thick
.
Tenpenny
ATLAS.
Eightpenny,
common
thick .
Tenpenny
LARGE
ATLAS.
Eightpenny,
common
or
Portfolios
.
tliick
Tenpenny
DOUBLE
ELETHANT,
or Large
Boards.
-
Portfolios,
&c.
>
Atlas
and
portfolios.
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cowie's bookbinder's manual.
133
A
LIST
OP
BOOKUrNDEnS,
VELLUM
BINDERS,
BOOKBINDERS
TOOL
MAKERS, BOOK
CLASP MAKERS,
BOOK
AND CARD
EDGE GILDERS, AND MANUFACTURERS
OR
DEALERS
IN
MILLED
BOARDS,
ETC.
BOOKBINDERS.
Adams,
Thomas,
14,
Little
Tower
Street.
Adlard,
John,
35,
Villiers Street,
Strand.
Agg, James,
116,
Fleet
Street.
Aitken, Charles,
4,
York
Buildings,
Adelphi.
Aked,
Joseph,
1,
Palsgrave
Place, Strand.
Allen,
Edward,
12,
Tavistock Row, Covent
Gai'den.
Allsworth,
William,
19,
High
Street,
Lambeth.
Angell,
F. W.,
20,
Cursitor
Street,
Chancery Lane.
Anscombe,
Russell
Street, Chelsea.
Armitage,
36,
Threadneedle
Street.
Arnott,
39,
St. Andrew's
Hill,
Doctor's Commons.
Astle &
Co.,
80,
Coleman
Street.
Aston, 1
1
,
Craven
Buildings, Drury
Lane.
Axon,
16,
Bartholomew
Close.
Baker,
15,
Bath Street, Newgate
Street.
Ball,
20.
Little Carter Lane.
Balls,
66,
Albany Street, Regent's
Park,
Barford,
27,
Poland
Street,
Oxford
Street.
Barratt,
21,
Portugal
Street, Lincoln's
Inn
Fields.
Batchelor & Martin,
107,
St.
Martin's
Lane.
Bateman,
36,
Tottenham Street, Fitzroy
Sqnare.
Batchelor,
112,
Fetter Lane.
Baxter,
49,
Bartholomew Close.
Beadon,
41,
Gloucester
Street, Queen's
Square.
Bell,
21,
Lawrence Pountney
Lane.
Bevan,
5,
Chapel
Place
South.
Blumfield,
22,
Well Street,
Cripplegate.
Bolster,
12,
Dyer's
l?uildings,
Holborn.
Bone,
76,
Fleet Street.
Bulck,
7,
Litchfield
Street,
Soho.
BuUwinckle,
5,
Cullum
Street.
Burn,
37,
Kirby
Street, and
35,
Hatton
Garden,
Bush,
15,
Jewry
Street, Aldgate.
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134 cowie's
bookbinder's
ivianfal.
Camp,
13,
John Street,
Spafields.
Carpenter,
4,
Wardrobe
Terrace.
Carr,
30,
Holywell Lane,
Shoreditch.
Catmur,
98,
Bethnal
Green
Road.
Catmur,
3,
Cherry Tree
Court,
Aldersgate
Street.
Chubb,
5,
Dean Street,
i'etter
Lane.
Clarke,
25,
Bouverie
Street.
Fleet
Street.
Clarke,
61,
Frith
Street, Soho.
Clyde,
9,
Newman
Street,
Oxford
Street,
Cole,
3,
Keen's
Row,
Walworth
Road.
Collier,
72,
Hatton Garden.
Cook,
84,
Gray's
Inn
Lane.
Cox,
15,
St.
Swithin's
Lane.
Crawford,
18,
Peerless
Row,
City Road.
Crawford, 16,
I'eerless
Row,
City Road.
Crisp
&
Son,
54,
Newman
Street,
Oxford
Street.
Curtis,
28,
Milton
Street,
Cripplegate.
Daltcu,
14a,
Bear Yard,
Lincoln's
Inn
Fields.
Davis
&
Co. 104,
Sloane
Street.
Davis,
13,
Great
Mitchell
Street.
Davis,
17,
Gresse
Street,
Tottenham
Court
Road.
Davison,
11,
Jewin
Crescent, Cripplegate.
De
Knock,
37,
Spring Street, Taddinston.
Donkin,
17,
Newcastle
Street,
Farringdon
Street.
Driscoll,
12
&
13,
St. Clement's
Lane.
Dunn,
14,
Chaudos
Street,
Covent Garden.
Edgeler,
7,
Houghton
Street,
Clare Market.
Eedy,
37,
Tavistock
Street,
Covent
Garden.
Eeles
«Si
Son,
22,
Cursitor
Street.
Egleton,
9i)i,
Hollxn-n Hill.
Egleton,
17,
Queen
Street,
Clerkenwell.
Ellison,
17.
Ave Maria
Lane.
Einbery,
19,
New Street, Clotbfair, Smithfield.
Evans,
64,
Berwick
Street.
Ewing,
38,
St.
Andrew's Hill,
I>)ctor's
Commons.
Ewins,
10,
Lambeth
Hill,
Upper
Thames
Street.
Fcllowes,
4,
Amen
Corner,
Paternoster
Row.
Field,
15,
Frances
Street,
Newiiigton
High
Street.
Field,
15,
Cross
Street,
Ilatton (iardeii.
Finch,
8,
Pearson Street,
Kingsland Hoad.
Fisher,
19,
Hanway
Street,
Oxford
Street.
Flude,
2,
Postern
Row,
Tower
Hill.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
135
Ford,
69,
Wood Street,
Cheapside.
Eraser,
90,
Long
Acre.
Furber,
19,
Woburn Buildings.
Gale,
16,
Goswell
Road.
Gardner,
45,
Paddington Street.
Gibbs,
8,
Great
Newport Street,
Long
Acre.
Gibson, la,
Duke's Road,
Pancras New
Road.
Glaisher,
2.3,
Nassau Street,
Middlesex
Hospital.
Goodwin,
15,
Shoe
Lane.
Gosnel,
20,
Rathbone
Place,
Oxford
Street.
Gyde,
7^,
Red
Lion
Court, Fleet
Street.
Halesworth,
27,
Bread
Street Hill.
Hallewell,
65,
Newman
Street,
Oxford
Street.
Hammond,
2,
Lant
Street,
Borough.
Harding,
23,
East
Street,
Red
Lion
Square.
Hargreaves,
21,
Warwick
Lane,
City.
Hatchard,
24,
New
Street,
Brompton.
Hatton,
24,
Great
New
Street, Fetter Lane.
Havell,
4,
Hind Court, Fleet
Street.
Hayday,
31,
Little Queen
Street.
Hodge.
34,
Great jNIarlborough Street.
Holland,
5,
Bull and Mouth
Street
Holmes,
1,
New
Inn
Buildings.
Hood,
25,
Red
Lion
Square, Holborn.
Howe,
7,
Upper
Marylebone
Street,
Portland
Place.
Hunt,
24,
Cullum
Street,
Fenchurch
Street.
Hunter,
178,
High
Holborn.
Huntsman,
10,
Duke
Street, AdelphL
Hutchings,
I,
Poplar
Row,
New
Kent Road.
Inman,
12,
Essex
Place,
Mare
Street, Hackney.
Isacke,
1,
Parker
Street,
Westminster.
Isacke,
18,
Sherborne
Lane, City.
Jackson,
42,
Great
Chart Street,
Hoxton.
James,
15,
Kirby
Street,
Hatton
Garden.
Jeffries,
5,
Angel
Court,
Snow
Hill.
Johnson,
13,
Leicester
Street, Regent Street.
Jones,
7,
Chiswell Street, Finsbury
Square.
Kelly,
7,
Water
Street, Arundel
Street.
Kelly,
15,
Gower
Place,
Euston
Square.
Key,
7,
Oxford
Arms Passage, Warwick
Lane.
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136 cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
Keynton,
8,
Regent Street,
City
Road.
Kimpton,
53,
Wardour
Street,
Soho.
King,
32,
Bartholomew Close.
Kitcat,
50,
Hatton
Garden.
Knapp,
10,
Green
Street,
Church Street,
Blacktriars.
Knibb,
30,
Ivirby Street,
Ilatton
Garden.
Lacey,
25,
Little
Wild
Street,
Lincoln's
Inn Fields.
Lanibol, 17,
Clothfair,
Smithfield.
Land,
2,
AVest
Street, Walworth Road.
Larkin, 40.
Newman Street,
Oxford
Street.
Leighton.
Son,
& Hodge,
Shoe
Lane.
Lewer,
33,
Lower Ranelaph
Street,
Pimlico.
Lewis
&
Sons,
9,
Gough Square, Fleet Street.
Lewis,
54,
South Molton
Street.
Lewis,
35,
Duke Street,
St.
James's
Square.
Liddon,
2,
Knowles
Court, Doctor's
Comraons.
Linden,
11,
Easton Street,
Spaficlds.
Lock.
4,
Borough
Road.
Lorimer.
20,
Bedford Square East.
Low,
1,
Gray's
Inn
Passage, Red
Lion
Street,
Ilolborn.
McCullock, 11,
Temple
Street,
Whitefriars.
McFarlane, 10,
Old
Bailey.
McMurray,
2,
Lillypot
Lane, Noble
Street.
Macefield, 26,
Myrtle
Street,
Iloxton
Old Town.
Macefield,
72,
Myddclton
Street.
Macomie,
6,
Percy
Street, Tottenham
Court
Road.
Martin,
1,
Prujean
Square.
Old
Bailey.
Martin,
7,
Princes
Street,
Biirbican.
Martin, 14,
Fetter
Lane,
Fleet
Street.
Masters,
\-2,
Dyers'
Buildings, Ilolborn.
Matthews, 53,
Paternoster Row.
Matthews, 1,
Melbourne
Place,
Cambridge
Road.
Alorehen, 5,
Bartholomew Close.
Napper, 13,
Everett
Street,
Brunswick
Square.
Nevett,
1,
Johnson's
Court. Fleet
Street.
Norman,
6.
Kirby
Street,
Hatton
Garden.
Nutt,
12,
Craven
Buildings,
Drury
Lane.
Oldfield,
74,
Red
Lion Street,
Holborn.
Orton,
1,
Little St.
Mary Axe.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
137
Palmer
& Son,
313,
Strand,
Palmer,
13,
Princess
Street,
Lisson
Grove.
Palmer,
5,
Great
Chesterfield
Street,
JMarylebone.
Pasniore,
17,
Manor
Place, Walworth
Road.
Payne,
31,
Tabernacle
Walk,
Finsbury,
Peck,
52,
Hoxton
Square.
Peck,
8,
Warwick
Square,
City.
Perraton,
4,
King's
Head
Court,
Holborn
Hill.
Pierson,
23,
Great Winchester
Street.
Phillips,
104,
High
Holborn.
Phillips,
12,
Plumber
Street,
City Road.
Pittard,
15,
Little
New
Street,
Shoe
Lane.
Polwarth,
8,
Queen's Row, Hralico.
Pooke,
14,
Fisher Street,
Red Lion
Square.
Pool,
26,
Bartholomew Close.
Potter,
16,
Warwick
Place, Kingsland.
Potter,
60,
Tabernacle Walk,
Finsbury.
Power,
26,
Newcastle
Street,
Strand.
Pownceby,
277,
Whitechapel
Road.
Price,
21,
Chiswell
Street,
Finsbury.
Price,
65,
Old
Broad
Street,
City.
Proudfoot,
73,
George
Street,
Euston
Square.
Pullen,
John
and
Samuel,
55,
Redcross
Street,
City.
Pymm,
32,
ViUiers
Street,
Strand.
Pymm,
14,
Upper
Crown Street,
Westminster.
Raines,
24,
Great
Ormond
Street.
Ravenscroft,
4,
Upper
James Street,
Golden
Square.
Ray,
43,
Duke Street, St. James's.
Remnant,
Edmonds &
Co.,
8
to
12,
Lovell's
Court,
Pater-
noster
Row.
Reynolds,
6,
Eldon Street, Finsbury.
Richards,
21,
Old Change.
Richardson, 14, St.
Swithin's
Lane.
Richmond, 53,
Skinner
Street,
Snow
Hill.
Ridsdale,
28,
W^orship
Street, Finsbury
Square.
Riley,
118,
Dorset Street,
Salisbury
Square.
Riley,
90,
Queen
Street,
Cheapside.
Riley,
18,
Warwick Square,
Newgate Street.
Riviere,
28,
Great
Queen
Street, Lincoln's
Inn
Fields.
Robertson,
18,
Roll's
Buildings,
Fetter
Lane.
Round,
129,
Fetter
Lane.
Rowbotham,
70,
Castle Street
East,
Oxford
Street.
Rumfitt,
33,
Castle
Street,
Leicester Square.
Russell,
3,
St. James's Street,
Clerkenwell.
Rutter,
23,
King
David
Lane.
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138
cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
Sanders,
2,
Ivy
Lane,
Ne-\vg:ate
Street.
Sapsford,
17,
Kirby
Street,
Hatton
Garden.
Saw,
37,
Vere
Street,
Clare
Market.
Searle
&
Sizer,
19,
Frith
Street,
Soho.
Serjeant,
11,
Stainin<j
Lane.
Shaw,
22,
Old
Bos
well
Court,
Carey
Street.
Simmons,
23,
Goswcll
Terrace.
Simmons,
19,
Middle
Street,
Clothfair.
Simpson,
2.5, Bread
Street Hill.
Slate,
103,
Hatton
Garden.
Smith,
5,
Ivy
Lane, Newgate
Street.
Smith,
24,
Duke
Street,
West Smitlifield.
Smith,
12,
Bridgehouse
Place, Newington.
Smith,
45,
Hart Street,
Covent Garden.
Smith,
.52,
Long
Acre.
Smith,
15,
St.
John's Lane,
Clerkenwell.
Soul,
26,
Tabernacle
Walk,
Finsbury.
Souter,
11,
Bell's
Buildings,
Salisbury
Square.
Spencer,
16,
Bridgewater
Square. Barbican.
Stagg,
37,
Devonshire
Street,
Queen's
Square.
Stanley,
11,
Carburton Street, Portland Koad.
Stannard,
3,
Fenton
Street, Commercial Road
East.
Strahan,
32,
Casile Street
East,
Oxford
Street.
Straker,
35,
Monkwell
Street.
Stratford,
9,
Hampstead Street, Fitzroy Square.
Suttley,
4,
Cross
Street,
Bermondsey
New
Town.
Symmons,
13,
Wine Office
Court.
Tarrant,
190;i,
High
Holborn.
Taylor,
9,
Huggin Lane,
Wood
Street.
Tepper,
46,
Southampton
Buildings.
Tesseyinan,
5,
Broad Court,
Bow
Street.
Tliorburn,
2,
Pleydell Street,
Fleet
Street,
Thorburn, 3,
Clement's
Inn,
Strand.
Thorn, 45
&
59,
Basinghall Street.
Trender,
23,
Wells
Street,
Crip{)legate.
Trickett,
37,
Stamford Street,
Blackfriars Roarl
Tucker,
7,
Little Warner
Street,
Clerkenwell.
Tuckett,
20,
Little
Russell
Street,
Bloorasbury.
Turner,
4,
Bond Court,
Walbrook.
Upfold,
43,
Buttesland Street,
Iloxton.
Wallwork,
42,
Great
Marlborough
Street.
Warwick,
19,
Rolls Buildings.
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cowie's
bookbinder's
manual.
139
Watkins,
8,
Paradise Row, Gravel Lane.
Watson,
13,
Ryder's
Court,
Leicester
Square.
Weemys
& Co.,
1,
Long
Lane,
Smithfield,
West,
2,
St. James's
Walk,
Clerkenwell.
West,
52,
Hatton Garden.
Westley &
Co.,
Friar Street,
Doctor's Commons.
West ley, Playhouse Yard, Blackfriars.
Westley,
8,
Warwick
Square,
Newgate
Street.
Whiting,
7,
Oxford
Arms
Passage,
Newgate
Street.
Williams,
1,
Belvidere
Place,
Cambridge
Road.
Williams,
Duchy Place,
137,
Strand.
Willington,
4,
Princes
Street,
Fitzroy Square.
Wilson, W.
& H.,
19,
Foley Place,
Portland
Place.
Wilson,
33,
Ray Street,
Clerkenwell.
Wilson,
5,
Gloucester
Terrace,
Cambridge
Road.
Wilton,
5.
Symond's
Inn, and
6,
Bream's
Buildings, Chan-
cery Lane.
AVingrove,
44,
Commercial
Road
Lambeth.
Wolter,
52,
Drury Lane.
Wood,
2,
Fountain Place,
City
Road.
Woolnough,
6,
Bateman's Row,
Shoreditch.
Woolnough,
7,
Upper James Street, Golden
Square.
Wortliington,
3,
Mayfield
Place, Kensington.
Wrighf,
14
&
15,
Noel
Street,
toho.
Zaehnsdorf,
90,
Drury
Lane, Holborn.
VELLUM
BINDERS.
Anderson,
4,
St Benet's Place.
Carter,
28,
London Wall.
Cope,
85,
St.
Martin's
Lane,
Charing
Cross.
Dunn,
14,
Chandos Street, Covent
Garden.
Fordham,
5,
Banner Street,
St.
Luke's.
Hall,
1,
Old
Fish
Street
Hill.
Hare,
4,
Little
St. Thomas
Apostle.
Hood, R.
&
H.,
12,
Bartholomew
Close.
Howell,
1,
West
Street,
Smithfield.
Jackson,
15,
Peter's
Hill,
St.
Paul's.
Leighton,
Jane
&
Sun,
3,
Harp
Alley, Farringdon
Street.
Lightup,
18,
Minories.
Olley,
38,
Gracechurch
Street.
Faxon,
7,
Skinner
Street,
SnowhiU.
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140 cowie's bookbinder's
manual.
Penny,
11,
Old
Bailey.
Phelps,
G.
ir.
&
Co.,
27,
Martin's
Lane,
City.
Pilsworth,
Barking
Ciiurchyard.
Rich,
21,
Old
Fish Street, Doctor's Commons.
Shaw,
1.3a,
Serle's Place,
I^incoln's Inn.
Winn,
in.
Sun Street,
BishopsgatCi
BOOKBINDERS'
PRESS
MAKERS.
Dafforn,
John
&
Son,
22,
Great
Mitchell
Street.
Hanipson,
47,
Old Bailey.
Jarrett,
4.5,
Lee
Street,
Kingsland Road.
BOOKBINDERS'
TOOL
CUTTERS
&
ENGKAVERS.
Balle, Surrey,
and
Ball,
8,
St.
Dunstan's
Court.
Beard,
20,
Exmouth
Street.
Catlin,
63,
Chandos
Street, Covent Garden.
Edwards.
66,
Old
15ailey.
Francis,
10,
Ilatton
Garden.
Francis,
29,
Tysoe
Street,
Clerkenwell.
Jlarley, f), Raquet
Court, Fleet
Street.
Hoare,
25a,
Ilatton
Garden.
Hubbard &
Uawe,
6,
Red
Lion
Court, Fleet Street.
Hughes
&
Kiniber,
107,
Shoe
Lane.
Johns,
36,
Charles
Street,
Hatton Garden.
Knights,
11,
Shoe
Lane,
Fleet Street.
Knights,
3,
Broadway,
Ludgate
Hill.
Morris, King, and
Gooding,
35,
Ludgate Street.
Royle,
20,
Ivy
Lane.
Newgate Street.
Sharwood,
S.
&
T., 120,
Aliiersgate
Street.
Staples,
30,
Castle
Street,
Holborn.
Timbury,
C.
&
Son,
44,
Paternoster
Row.
Timbury,
104,
Fetter
Lane.
BOOKBINDERS'
CLOTH
MAKERS.
Atkinson,
Lamb's
Passage,
Chiswell
Street.
Cussons,
T.
&
Co.,
51,
Banhill Row.
Eadie,
53,
Great
Queen
Street.
Healey
&
Co.,
9,
Queenhithe.
BOOKBINDERS'
LEATHER-SELLER.
Ford,
69,
Wood
Street,
Cheapside.
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cowie's
bookbinder's manual.
141
BOOKBINDERS' PLOUGH
KNIFE
MAKER.
Allen,
27,
Great
St.
Andrew
Street,
Seven
Dials.
BOOK
AND CARD
EDGE
GILDERS
AND
MARBLERS.
Bartholomew,
21,
Red
Lion Street,
Clerkenwell.
.
Bullwinckle,
5,
Cullum
Street.
Corfield, 44,
Kirby Street, Hatton
Garden.
DoUman,
29,
Charles Street,
Hatton
Garden.
Grew, 19,
Well Street,
Cripplegate.
Hall.
7,
Warwick Square, City.
Harley,
5,
Raquet
Court,
Fleet
Street.
Linden,
11,
Easton Street, Spafields.
Page,
1,
Little St.
Thomas Apostle.
Preston,
28,
Maiden
Lane,
Covent
Garden.
BOOK
EDGE LOCK AND
CLASP
MAKERS.
Biddle,
1
1 ,
Queen Street,
City.
Brockwell, 15.3,
Fleet
Street.
Burket,
22,
Bridgewater
Square.
Burtt,
T.
&
Sons,
45.
Northampton
Street,
Clei'kenwell.
Dace,
126a,
St.
John Street,
Clerkenwell.
Dickens,
7,
New Street, Cloth Fair.
Downes,
4,
Red
Lion
Court,
Fleet
Street.
Ford,
G,
Monkwell
Street, Cripplegate.
Guy,
4,
Harp
Alley, Siioe Lane.
Pike,
8,
Oxford
Arms
Passage,
Warwick
Lane.
Powell,
4,
Wardrobe
Place,
Addle
Hill.
Tonkinson,
2^,
St.
James's
Walk.
MILLBOARD
MAKERS.
Compere
& Tipper,
5,
Little
St. Thomas
Apostle.
Eadie,
53, Great
Queei
Street,
Lincoln's
Inn
Fields.
Healey,
Timothy, &
Co.
9,
Queenhithe.
Wilson, Richard,
&
Co., 26
&
27,
St.
Martin's
Court.
ROTARY
PRESS
MAKER.
J.
G.
Sherwin,
5,
Cumberland
Street, Curtain
Road,
Shore-
ditch.
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Just Published,
Price
One
Shilling
and
Sixpence,
PRINTED
UNIFOKM
WITH
OOWIE'S
PRINTERS' MANUAL,
BOOKBINDER'S
MANUAL,
ETC.
COWIE'S
NATIONAL
SYSTEM
OF
SHORT
HAND:
BEING AN IMPROVEMENT
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VOWELS
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EX1;M1-L1FIEI)
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ENGRAVINGS.
LONDON:
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STRANGE,
Jun.,
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AMEN CORNER,
PATERNOSTER
ROW.
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Third
Edition, price
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BOOK,
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AND
OTHER
COLOURS,
AND THE
MANUFACTURING
OF
COMPOSITION
BALLS OR ROLLERS.
LONDON:
W.
STRANGE,
Jun.,
8,
AMEN
CORNER,
PATERNOSTER
ROW.
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NOW READY,
CONSIDERABLY
ENLARGED,
The
Sighth
and New
Sditioxij
Price
2s.
6d.,free
by
post, 6d.
extra,
COWIE'S
PRINTERS'
BOOK
AND
MANUAIj,
CONTAINING THE
COMPOSITORS'
AND
PRESSMEN'S
NEW
SCALE
OF
PRICES,
THE
NEWSMEN'S
SCALE,
.
NUMEROUS
VALUABLE TABLES,
ALL THE
SCHEMES OF
IMPOSITION,
CHARACTERS
TECnLlAR TO
ANCIENT
RECORDS;
THE
HEBREW,
GREEK
AND SAXON
ALPHABETS,
WITH
PLANS OF THE
CASES;
MATHEMATICAL,
ALGEBRAICAL,
PHYSICAL, AND ASTRONOMI-
CAL
SIGNS;
TO
WHICH
ARE
ADDED
DONATIONS
TO
PRINTERS,
AND
MODE
OF
APPLICATION
FOR
THE SAME
J
WITH
AN
ESSAY
ON
PUNCTUATION,
AND
OTHER
MISCELLANEOUS
MATTER;
ALSO,
A
CORRECT
LIST
OF
THE
PRIi\Tli\'G
OFFICES
i
LOION
AND ITS
VICINITY.
LONDON:
W.
STRANGE,
Jun.,
8,
AMEN
CORNER,
PATEKNOSTER
HOW.
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8/20/2019 Cowies Bookbinders Manual 1860
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