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Cornish Way

Ask a Land’s End to John O’Groats cyclist for the hardest part oftheir route, and without doubt, they’ll say “Cornwall and Devon”.So you’d expect the Cornish Way to be a gruelling, hilly ride. Infact, this delightful amble to Land’s End has all the scenery –and with one or two exceptions, not too much of the climbing.

Along the way you’ll pass attractions such as the Eden Projectand St Michael’s Mount, while Padstow, Falmouth and St Ivesare just a short detour away. With several railway stations alongthe way, most served by First Great Western’s bike-friendly fleet,you can tackle it in stages or simply cherry-pick the days thatappeal most.

The route works well as a follow-on to the West Country Way,which runs from Bristol to the start of the Cornish Way at Bude –though only the brave will tackle both at the same time! Or ifyou’re enjoying a self-catering holiday in the West Country, whynot cycle out from your cottage, try a bit of the Cornish Way, andreturn by train in the evening?

What sort of bike?

The majority of the route is on quiet lanes, with which any bikewill cope. Occasional sections are on cycle paths, generallysurfaced with gravel. 

How many days?

It’s 129 miles from Bude to Land’s End; a comfortable four-daytour for moderately experienced cyclists, or as little as two forthe really fit. 

How do I get there?

The First Great Western trains that fan out from Paddingtoneach take six bikes (booking advisable but not compulsory);local trains usually take two, though the guards will applycommon sense. If you’re coming from the Midlands or (on someservices) Bristol, check your timetable carefully: these trains arerun by CrossCountry and have just three bike spaces, sobooking is essential.

Unfortunately Bude has no railway station, though parts of theold line are being converted into a cycle route! The first station isat Bodmin Parkway. 

Are there any route options?

Immediately south of Bude, you can choose between coastaland inland routes for the next 13 miles. The coastal route is justas scenic as you’d imagine, but it’s also very hilly. Don’t embarkon it lightly – especially if you’re travelling fully loaded.

Just before Bodmin, NCN route 32 branches off to Padstow(along the Camel Trail, perhaps Britain’s busiest leisure cycleroute) and Newquay; it rejoins the main route at Truro. Padstowis a delightful detour, Newquay less so, but this is a worthwhilealternative mostly along country lanes.

Though travelling west–east will give you a slight benefit fromprevailing winds, east–west seems the more logical choice to us,if only for the sense of achievement when you arrive at Land’sEnd.

Bude to Bodmin

The Cornish Way starts at Bude, a pretty resort town with anattractive harbour – and immediately splits into two.

You can take an inland route south on more rural lanes, mildlyhilly, endearingly quiet, and fairly direct; or you can follow thecoastal route past cliffs and beaches. The latter has spectacularviews, but the hills are truly gruelling. A fit rider on a light bikewill have no hesitation in plumping for the coast; everyone elseshould weigh their decision (and their panniers) carefully. 

It begins innocently with a quiet ride along the coast, butWidemouth Bay marks the first of three crazily steep climbs onthe tiny, winding lane. The scenery is magnificent, and you’llhave plenty of time to appreciate it as you push your bike up thehills. Just tell yourself that you’re taking a morning to walk theSouth West Coast Path.

The inland route from Marhamchurch (above Bude) is moremoderate, though far from pancake-flat. This is an isolated ruralride with few facilities: your best chance is by taking a shortdetour to Camelford, after the two routes have rejoined.

By now, the coast has been left behind and moorland sceneryhas taken over. Bodmin Moor’s twisting, narrow lanes are asattractive as the coast route in their own way, though the roadacross the old airfield at Davidstow is hard work if the windcatches you in the wrong direction. To minimise visual clutter,cycle route signs are painted on the road here, so keep a closeeye out and follow your map.

Finally the route descends to the famous Camel Trail, an off-road route which attracts thousands of novice cyclists everyholiday. These first five miles are more subdued – the crowdsreally only throng the trail as it approaches the coast – but asever, ride slowly past dog walkers and family groups. A fork inthe trail gives you two options: left to Bodmin, or right toWadebridge and Padstow. The main Cornish Way goes viaBodmin, but Padstow is a delightful detour both for its well-heeled daytripper vibe and the stunning waterside railway paththat leads there.

Bodmin to Truro

Bodmin is a little down-at-heel, but has a useful supermarketand a handful of cafés where you can refuel. You might hear theoccasional toot from a steam train: the Bodmin & WenfordRailway uses those lengths of trackbed that the Camel Trailhasn’t laid claim to. There’s a useful mainline railway station atBodmin Parkway, four miles out of town on a fully signpostedroute (if hilly).

Forgotten lanes along a closely wooded valley slowly deliver youto one of the highlights of the route: the Eden Project. Thisspace-age celebration of the natural world needs nointroduction, and most Cornish Way cyclists will make time for avisit. Don’t forget to mention you arrived by bike for a discounton admission; the project appears to bear no ill-will to cyclistseven though Sustrans beat them to a £50m lottery grant!

Mid-Cornwall has an intricate network of cycle routes on formerquarry railways, and you’ll see signs for the first of them here.NCN 3 continues to the warrenlike town of St Austell, anunpretentious place perhaps best known for its brewery – StAustell ales are inescapable in Cornwall.

For all St Austell’s workaday qualities, Mevagissey – sevenmiles on, along a lovely traffic-free path – is absolutely pictureperfect. This harbour village has long been sought after byLondon visitors, and it’s the route’s first taste of holidayCornwall. It also marks a return to the steep coastal lanes,though mercifully, none as taxing as the Bude section. Not toworry: there’s always a St Austell pub whenever you need a rest.Portloe, right on the coast, is a particularly pleasant lunch lunchstop.

The route descends to the Fal estuary at King Harry Ferry,where the busy car ferry (small fee) takes you over to the westbank and a steep climb up to a secluded wooded path; you maybe lucky enough to see peregrines here. Two routes aresignposted, one through Truro and another which bypasses thecompact cathedral city. For overnight accommodation, oneenjoyable option is to take the train from Truro to Falmouth, anenjoyable harbour town with good pubs and restaurants, andB&Bs aplenty.

Truro to Land's End

After Truro, the route makes great use of the mineral tramwaysthat once served Cornish industry. Much of the first section is onthe old tramway route from Perranwell to Portreath, now theshortest signposted coast-to-coast cycle route in Britain!

Redruth and Camborne run into each other, former industrialtowns that have yet to attract many tourists. After a brief flirtationwith the busy streets around Redruth station, the route climbs tothe slopes of Carn Brea for a fascinating short stretch past theold mines. (There’s a five-mile circular route here if you havetime for a diversion.)

NCN 3 enjoys its own coast-to-coast swerve from Hayle, on thenorth coast, to Marazion in the south – just six miles on winding,low-lying lanes. You can stop at St Erth for an excursion by trainto nearby St Ives, Cornwall’s finest resort whose narrow streetsare home to art galleries, boutique clothes shops, and Cornishpasty sellers alike. Marazion is much smaller but certainly worththe half-mile detour off the route, particularly for the viewsacross to St Michael’s Mount – the twin of Mont-St-Michel, withregular boats from the village.

The cycle path to Penzance just ekes out a space between thebeach and the Great Western Railway. Don’t be surprised ifyou’re overtaken by a High Speed Train completing its long trekfrom London Paddington – after all, it might be your transporthome. The town has few ambitions to serve as a resort and is allthe better for it, with many local shops and a fine range of pubs.Tie up by the station and walk up the oddly named Market JewStreet to Causeway Road, the heart of the town.

The route clings to the coast past the fine fishing village ofNewlyn, where you’ll see Stevensons trawlers returning withtheir latest catch; you can buy direct from their shop here, or inthe smaller outlet in Penzance. An excellent coastal path carriesonto Mousehole (pronounced “Mow-zull”, the first syllablerhyming with “how”). With its harbour and pubs, this is just whatyou’d expect a Cornish fishing village to look like.

The climb out of Mousehole is laughably steep and few wouldbegrudge you pushing up it. There’s another such hill atLamorna, but otherwise, the last 11 miles to Land’s End arerelaxing, rolling riding.

A sandy bike path bypasses the notorious A30 on the finalstretch, going via Sennen Cove which is, truth be told, altogethernicer than the slightly tacky mess of Land’s End itself. But youhaven’t cycled all this way for the destination; the journey is itsown reward.

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