chapter 11 menu planning - horizontal and vertical pairing decisions

Chapter 11

Menu Planning - Horizontal and Vertical Pairing

Decisions

Chapter 11 Outline

Aperitif: Food and Wine of the Pacific Northwest

• General Menu Planning Suggestions

• Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendations

• PNW Menu Item Discussion and Recipes

• Wine and Food Pairing Instrument

• Wine and Food Match Decision Tree

• A Profiling Approach to Match Level Assessment

Chapter 11 Key Concepts

• Horizontal or vertical pairing choices• Integrating indigenous ingredients,

ethnic cooking styles, and regional wines into a menu theme

• Using judgment to predict level of perceived food and wine match

• The 12 primary pairing decision rules and integrating them into your pairing decisions

Summary of the 12 Basic Pairing Decisions (#1-#6)

• Rule #1: Food sweetness level should be less than or equal to wine sweetness level.

• Rule #2: Food acidity level should be less than or equal to wine acidity level.

• Rule #3: Highly salty foods work better with wines that have high effervescence.

• Rule #4: The negative impact of bitter food is lessened when combined with wines of moderate to high levels of effervescence.

• Rule #5: Wine tannin levels should be equal to food fattiness levels.

• Rule #6: Wine acidity levels should be equal to vegetable food fattiness levels.

Summary of the 12 Basic Pairing Decisions (#7-#12)

• Rule #7: Overall body of wine should be equal to overall body of food.

• Rule #8: Food spiciness should be equal to wine spiciness.

• Rule #9: Spicy food should be paired with off-dry, acidic white wines.

• Rule #10: Food and wine flavor types can be matched using either a similarity or contrasting approach.

• Rule #11: Flavor intensity of wine and food should be equal to ensure an equal impact by each gastronomic partner.

• Rule #12: Flavor persistency of wine and food should be equal to ensure an equal impact by each gastronomic partner.

Pacific Northwest Cuisine

• Ingredients in search of a cuisine?

• Local chefs search out:– History– Cultural influences– Ethnic influences – Indigenous ingredients

Influences of Washington

• The western side is known for its abundant fish & seafood products: salmon, halibut, lingcod, mussels, razor & geoduck clams, Olympia oysters, and Dungeness crab.

• Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Thai cultures have influenced the western side.

• Mexican immigrants/workers and early German settlers have influenced the central and eastern areas.

• The central and eastern part is primarily an agricultural growing region.

• Protein in the central and eastern part comes from cattle ranches and feedlots, fish, and game.

•

Influences of Oregon

• The coastal side has an abundance of fish and seafood similar to Washington.

• Oregon produces amazing scallops, Dungeness crab, Coho, and King salmon.

• Oregon produces high quality berries, wild mushrooms, cheddar cheese, melons, and Pinot Noir grapes.

• There is an abundance of smoked salmon and trout available in restaurants and shops.

• The Native American smoking technique “hot smoke” has influenced Oregon dishes.

Influences of Idaho• Idaho is famous for its potatoes.• After the Civil War, Idaho was settled by many

disenfranchised southerners who brought many techniques used in “pioneer fare”.

• There is a large Chinese population as a result from those who came to mine and build the railroads and ended up settling down.

• Idaho has the largest concentration of Basque population in the USA.

• It is a large producer of farmed Rainbow trout, tilapia, lamb, and a variety of fruits and vegetables.

• The Palouse Hills is home to the most productive wheat and lentil farms in the country.

Influences of British Columbia

• It has a variety of ethnic influences on its cuisine.

• Salmon was incredibly important to the First Nations people and other early settlers.

• Salmon remains central to their cooking today.• Prawns, scallops, clams, Dungeness crab,

rockfish, halibut, and black cod are prominent in the cuisine.

• Bentwood box cookery has influenced British Columbian dishes.

• Since the 1970’s, B.C. has been influenced by a blend of Asian, European, Indian, and Native flavors combined with BC ingredients.

Wine in the Pacific Northwest

• Washington: Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Lemberger, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot.

• Oregon: Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

• Idaho: Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon.

• Okanagan Valley, BC: Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Issues That Should Be Considered Before Planning

Any Menua. Audienceb. Purposec. Themed. Equipment, staff, and location

constraintse. Number of guests/price and cost issuesf. Special diet needs (ex. allergies,

religious restrictions…)g. Ebb and flow of menu

The Five Basic Rules for Wine Sequencing Decisions

1. Light-bodied wine, before medium-bodied wine, before full-bodied wine.

2. Dry wines before sweet wines.3. Lower alcohol wines before higher alcohol

wines.4. Lower quality wines before higher quality

wines.5. Low-tannin wines before high-tannin wines.

These suggestions are not always possible. Time periods between courses will assist in diminishing possible carryover issues.

Wine and Food Pairing Decision Wine and Food Pairing Decision TreeTree

Components Texture Flavors

No Match Refreshment Neutral Good Match Synergistic Match

Sweetness Match

No Yes

Acidity Match

No Yes

Salty Foods?

Bitter Foods?

Moderate to High Effervescence?

No Yes

Yes

No Yes

Fattiness/Tannin Match or Fattiness/Wine Acid Match

No

No

Overall Body

Yes

No

Spiciness Match or Food Spicy/Wine Sweetness Match

Yes

Intensity Match

Persistency Match

Flavor Type Match

YesNo

No Yes

No

No

Yes

Yes

0 1 2 0 1 2 33 4 4 55 66 77 88 99 10 10

Chapter 11

Lagniappe“Something extra”

Assessing Level of Match from Assessing Level of Match from Sequential Tasting:Sequential Tasting:

Using the Decision Tree and Wine and Food Evaluation Profiles

Wine and Food Profiles

• Each section of the decision tree points to key relationships that impact wine and food match.

• These are determined based on profiles provided in Figure 11.2.

• Match relationships are weighted and a predicted level match is created using Figure 11.4: Quantifying Wine and Food Profiles to Predict Match Level

Wine and Food Example• A classic food and wine match is

used to demonstrate the use of the Wine and Food Decision Tree, Figure 11.2 and 11.4:– A high level of perceived match: Grilled

lamb chop & braised lamb shoulder with Bordeaux Rouge (9 of 10 points)

– A low level of perceived match will be presented at in Chapter 12: Grilled Brie with Cabernet Sauvignon (3.5 of 10 points)

Lamb two ways and Bordeaux Rouge

• The lamb dish included a grilled lamb chop & braised lamb shoulder meat.

• Served with golden whipped potatoes and forest mushrooms.

• The wine served was 2001 Baron Philippe Rothschild, St. Émilion, Bordeaux Rouge

• Lamb and red Bordeaux is a classic marriage.

Lamb two ways and Bordeaux Rouge (2)

• In many parts of Bordeaux, sheep gaze in off the grasses in the vineyards.

• This red Bordeaux is from the Saint-Émilion appellation.

• St-Emilion is located on the cooler ‘Right Bank’ of the Garonne River.

• All Bordeaux reds use a blending model.• Right Bank producers use predominately

Merlot rather than a predominately Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the Left Bank vineyards.

Decision Tree: Stage 1Decision Tree: Stage 1Components Texture Flavors


Sweetness Match

No Yes

Acidity Match

No Yes

Salty Foods?

Bitter Foods?


No Yes

Yes

No Yes


No

No

Overall Body

Yes

No


Yes

Intensity Match

Persistency Match

Flavor Type Match

YesNo

No Yes

No

No

Yes

Yes

0 1 2 0 1 2 33 4 4 55 66 77 88 99 10 10

Step 1 is to look at the critical match of wine and food components.

This assessment is critical in determining moving from no match to higher levels.

To determine this, it is essential to look at levels of sweetness and acidity as well as if the food is overly salty or bitter.

Figure 11.2C: ComponentsFigure 11.2C: ComponentsWine: Wine: Bordeaux RougeBordeaux Rouge Food: Food: Lamb two waysLamb two ways

CCOOMMPPOONNEENNTTSS

FOOD1

WINE1

Sweetness

Acidity

Saltiness

Bitterness

Dry to Sweet

Acidity

Effervescence

0 5 10

Bas

ic c

ompo

nent

s

profi

le



FOOD1

WINE1

Sweetness

Acidity

Saltiness

Bitterness

Dry to Sweet

Acidity

Effervescence

0 5 10

Sweetness match



FOOD1

WINE1

Sweetness

Acidity

Saltiness

Bitterness

Dry to Sweet

Acidity

Effervescence

0 5 10

Refreshing acidity match



FOOD1

WINE1

Sweetness

Acidity

Saltiness

Bitterness

Dry to Sweet

Acidity

Effervescence

0 5 10

No excessive salt or

bitterness



FOOD1

WINE1

Sweetness

Acidity

Saltiness

Bitterness

Dry to Sweet

Acidity

Effervescence

0 5 10

No excessive salt or

bitterness

Lightly to moderately salty foods

can enhance the taste of red wines

Top Section of Figure 11.4: Components Impact on Predicted Match

ComponentsComponents SimilaritySimilarity ContrastContrast ScoreScore Sweetness MatchSweetness Match __X____X__ ____________ __1____1__ (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)(Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)

Acidity MatchAcidity Match __ X____ X__ ____________ __1____1__ (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0)(Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0)

Low to Moderate Levels of Food SaltinessLow to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness _ .5 __ .5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0)(Yes=.5, No=0)

Low to Moderate Levels of Food BitternessLow to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness _ .5 __ .5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0)(Yes=.5, No=0)

Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level MatchModerate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match (Yes=1, No=0)(Yes=1, No=0) __________

High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match)High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No MatchNo Match

Components SubtotalComponents Subtotal ___ 2 ______ 2 ___

Top Section of Figure 11.4: Components Impact on Predicted Match

ComponentsComponents SimilaritySimilarity ContrastContrast ScoreScore Sweetness MatchSweetness Match __X____X__ ____________ __1____1__ (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)(Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)

Acidity MatchAcidity Match __ X____ X__ ____________ __1____1__ (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0)(Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0)

Low to Moderate Levels of Food SaltinessLow to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness _ .5 __ .5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0)(Yes=.5, No=0)

Low to Moderate Levels of Food BitternessLow to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness _ .5 __ .5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0)(Yes=.5, No=0)

Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level MatchModerate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match (Yes=1, No=0)(Yes=1, No=0) __________

High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match)High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No MatchNo Match

Components SubtotalComponents Subtotal ___ ___ 22 ___ ___

Lamb and Bordeaux components Lamb and Bordeaux components match in all areas: sweetness, acidity, match in all areas: sweetness, acidity, bitterness and saltiness.bitterness and saltiness.

No need for palate cleansing bubbles No need for palate cleansing bubbles to counteract for high food saltiness to counteract for high food saltiness or bitterness.or bitterness.



Sweetness Match

No Yes

Acidity Match

No Yes

Salty Foods?

Bitter Foods?


No Yes

Yes

No Yes


No

No

Overall Body

Yes

No


Yes

Intensity Match

Persistency Match

Flavor Type Match

YesNo

No Yes

No

No

Yes

Yes

0 1 2 0 1 2 33 4 4 55 66 77 88 99 10 10

Step 2 is to look at texture

match.

Pertains to food fattiness/wine

tannin and overall

perceived body in wine and

food.

Figure 11.2C: TextureFigure 11.2C: Texture Wine: Wine: Bordeaux RougeBordeaux Rouge Food: Food: Lamb two waysLamb two ways

TTEEXXTTUURREE

F2

WINE2

Fattiness

Overall Body

Tannin

Alcohol

Overall Body

0 5 10

Bas

ic t

extu

re

Bas

ic t

extu

re

pro

file

pro

file


TTEEXXTTUURREE

F2

WINE2

Fattiness

Overall Body

Tannin

Alcohol

Overall Body

0 5 10

Lamb fattiness Lamb fattiness level and wine level and wine

tannins are a good tannins are a good matchmatch


TTEEXXTTUURREE

F2

WINE2

Fattiness

Overall Body

Tannin

Alcohol

Overall Body

0 5 10Lamb and Lamb and Bordeaux -Bordeaux -

Overall Overall Body match Body match moves the moves the marriage to marriage to

a least a a least a neutral neutral

match level match level

Middle Section of Figure 11.4: Texture Impact on Predicted Match

TextureTexture SimilaritySimilarity ContrastContrast ScoreScore Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin MatchFood Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match _ 1 __ 1 _

(Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0)(Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0)

Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity MatchFood Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match _ 0 __ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0)(Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0)

Food and Wine Body MatchFood and Wine Body Match __X____X__ ____________ _ 1 __ 1 _ (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0)(Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0)

Texture SubtotalTexture Subtotal ___ 2 ______ 2 ___

Middle Section of Figure 11.4: Texture Impact on Predicted Match

TextureTexture SimilaritySimilarity ContrastContrast ScoreScore Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin MatchFood Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match _ 1 __ 1 _

(Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0)(Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0)

Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity MatchFood Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match _ 0 __ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0)(Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0)

Food and Wine Body MatchFood and Wine Body Match __X____X__ ____________ _ 1 __ 1 _ (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0)(Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0)

Texture SubtotalTexture Subtotal ___ 2 ______ 2 ___

Lamb fattiness and wine tannins Lamb fattiness and wine tannins should interact to create a pleasant should interact to create a pleasant match.match.

Overall body of the lamb dish is Overall body of the lamb dish is slightly higher than the Bordeaux slightly higher than the Bordeaux but does not overpower the wine but does not overpower the wine creating a match.creating a match.



Sweetness Match

No Yes

Acidity Match

No Yes

Salty Foods?

Bitter Foods?


No Yes

Yes

No Yes


No

No

Overall Body

Yes

No


Yes

Intensity Match

Persistency Match

Flavor Type Match

YesNo

No Yes

No

No

Yes

Yes

0 1 2 0 1 2 33 4 4 55 66 77 88 99 10 10

Flavor elements Flavor elements have the have the

potential to potential to move this move this

match from match from good to great!good to great!

Figure 11.2C: FlavorsFigure 11.2C: Flavors Wine: Wine: Bordeaux RougeBordeaux Rouge Food: Food: Lamb two waysLamb two ways

FFLLAAVVOORRSS

F3

W3

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

0 5 10

Bas

ic fl

avor

pro

file

Bas

ic fl

avor

pro

file

PepperPepper

PepperPepper


FFLLAAVVOORRSS

F3

W3

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

0 5 10

PepperPepper

PepperPepper

Peppery spice Peppery spice flavors in the flavors in the lamb dish and lamb dish and wine (at about wine (at about the same the same intensity) intensity) create a create a spiciness spiciness match – in match – in level and type!level and type!


FFLLAAVVOORRSS

F3

W3

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

Spicy

Intensity

Persistence

0 5 10

PepperPepper

PepperPepper

Flavor intensity is a Flavor intensity is a partial match – the partial match – the lamb is more intense lamb is more intense than the wine – than the wine – should we have should we have selected a Bordeaux selected a Bordeaux from the Left Bank?from the Left Bank?

Persistence in the Persistence in the wine and food provide wine and food provide a good match.a good match.

Figure 11.2C: Bottom SectionFigure 11.2C: Bottom Section Wine: Wine: Bordeaux RougeBordeaux Rouge Food: Food: Lamb two waysLamb two ways

Food Flavor Type:

Wine Flavor Type:

Food Observations: Use of wine in the preparation of the braised lamb enhances match.Wine Observations: Young, tannic red wine is smoothed with lamb fattiness.

Level of Food & Wine Match: Match based on:

0---1---2---3---4---5---6---7---8---9---10

Fruity Nutty Smoky Cheesy Herbal Umami Earthy Other

Fruity Nutty Smoky Buttery Herbal Floral Earthy Other

Components

Complementary Contrast

Texture

Flavors

Comments:

None Refreshment Neutral Good Synergistic

XX

XX

XX

Lower Section of Figure 11.4: Flavor Impact on Predicted Match

FlavorFlavor SimilaritySimilarity ContrastContrast ScoreScore

Low to Moderate Spice Level MatchLow to Moderate Spice Level Match __X____X__ ______ ______ _ 1 __ 1 _ (Food Spiciness = Wine Spiciness Yes=1, No=0)(Food Spiciness = Wine Spiciness Yes=1, No=0)

Moderate Food Spice and Wine Sweetness ______Moderate Food Spice and Wine Sweetness ______ ______ ______ _ 1 __ 1 _ (Food Spiciness = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)(Food Spiciness = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0)

High Levels of Food SpiceHigh Levels of Food Spice No MatchNo Match

Flavor Intensity MatchFlavor Intensity Match _ .5 __ .5 _ (Food Intensity = Wine Intensity Yes=1, No=0)(Food Intensity = Wine Intensity Yes=1, No=0) Flavor Type MatchFlavor Type Match __X____X__ ______ ______ _ 1 __ 1 _ (Flavors similar or contrasting Yes=1, No=0)(Flavors similar or contrasting Yes=1, No=0)

Flavor Persistency MatchFlavor Persistency Match _ 1 __ 1 _ (Food Persistence = Wine Persistence Yes=1, No=0)(Food Persistence = Wine Persistence Yes=1, No=0)

Subtotal FlavorSubtotal Flavor __ 4.5 ____ 4.5 __

A lower weight due to partial intensity match

Figure 11.4: Total Predicted match ScoreLamb Two Ways and Bordeaux Rouge

Components Subtotal ___ 2 ___

Texture Subtotal ___ 2 ___

Subtotal Flavor ___ 4.5 ___

Total Predicted Match ___ 8.5 ___Total Predicted Match ___ 8.5 ___Close to the actual average of 9/10

with a mixed tasting

Results of the Decision Tree and Profile Approach

• Provides a strong connection to match level derived through mixed tasting.

• Creates a systematic thought process for wine and food selection.

• While good wine selection is based on substantial experience, this process allows the novice to develop critical assessment skills while developing food and wine pairing experience.

chapter 11 menu planning - horizontal and vertical pairing decisions

Documents

food pairing instrument

food spiciness

wine spiciness

food acidity level

spicy food

food sweetness level

recipes wine

wine sweetness level