Ch. 35 notes

Fiber Yarn Fabric

Twist several strands of fiber to make…

Twist several yarns together to make…

Fiber

• Natural

• Plants (cellulosic)

– Cotton

– Flax

– Ramie

• Manufactured

• Animal (protein)– Wool (Sheep)– Silk (Silkworms)– Specialty Hair

• Camel Family – camel hair• Rabbit Family – angora• Goat Family – mohair and cashmere

Continue under Natural Fiber

•Mineral

•Asbestos

Manufactured

• Manmade and machine made

Continue with Manufactured

• Cellulosic (plants)

– Rayon

– Acetate

– Triacetate

• Noncellulosic (chemical compounds)

– Nylon

– Polyester

– Acrylic

Steps before raw materials become fibers: (still under manufactured)

1. Solid raw materials are changed to a liquid form (by either melting or dissolving by chemicals). These raw materials can be wood, petroleum or other chemical sources.

2. The liquid is forced through a spinneret. The tiny holes in the spinneret make a thin fiber.

3. The liquid hardens in the form of a filament., which is a continuous strand of fiber.

4. The filaments are then twisted together into yarns and wound onto spools, then made into cloth.

Filaments Yarns Fabric

Fiber Yarn Fabric

• A strand made by combining staple fibers or filaments.

• 3 types of yarns– Spun yarn

• short, staple fibers• surface is rough because some of the fiber

ends stick out• All natural fibers, except silk, are made into

this.

• Monofilament yarns

– Made from a single filament

•Multifilament yarns

•Made from a group of filaments

3 categories of yarns

• Single yarns – first twisting step

• Ply yarns – when two or more single yarns are twisted together

• Cord yarns – when two or more ply yarns are twisted together

Yarns: Blends and combinations

• Blend – spinning different staple fibers together to make a single yarn

• Combination – twisting 2 different single yarns into a ply

• When fibers are blended or combined the best of each fiber can be enjoyed. (might not shrink as much, bad characteristics are lessened)

Fabrics• Weaving

– Plain Weave• Uses an over one, under

one pattern

– Twill Weave• Made when yarns in one

direction float over two or more yarns in the other direction

– Satin Weave• Created by floating a yarn

from one direction over four or more yarns from the other direction and then under one yarn.

• Knitting– Weft knitting

• Loops are made as yarn is added in the crosswise direction (by hand or machine)

• There are 2 kinds:– Circular (fabric is knitted in the

shape of a tube)– Flat knitting (stitches can be

added or dropped to change the fabric width)

– Warp knitting• Done only by machine• Loops are made by one or more

sets of warp yarns• Lighter in weight and less

elastic than weft knits

Other Fabric Constructions

• Felt– made from short wool fibers– Not as strong as woven or knitted fabrics– Thick, stiff, warm– Great for household items and crafts

• Nonwoven Fabrics– Made by bonding or fusing fibers (other than wool)– Less costly than woven or knitted fabrics– Often used for disposable items like diapers,

operating gowns, bandages, and cleaning cloths

Finishes

• A treatment that is given to fibers, yarns, or fabrics that can improve the look, feel, or performance of a fabric.

Dyeing

• Used to produce color in fabrics (manufactured or natural)

• Colorfast means the color can withstand washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, sunlight, or rubbing

3 types of Dye• Fiber Dyeing

– Fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns• 2 types

– Stock dyeing: natural fibers – the solution is added to the loose fibers– Solution dyeing: manufactured fibers – the dye is added to the thick

liquid before it is forced through the spinneret

• Yarn Dyeing– Done by winding yarn onto spools and placing them in a dye

bath (striped and plaid fabrics); cost less than fiber dyeing, but more than piece dyeing

• Piece Dyeing– Most common method– After fabric is made, the color is added– Allows manufacturers to follow color fashion trends– Solid colors mostly, except those that are cross dyed (fabric

made of two or more fibers placed in a dye bath containing two or more different dyes.

Printing Fabrics

• With dyed fabrics the color is the same on both sides of the fabric.

• With printing fabrics the color is lighter on the wrong side of the fabric.– Direct Roller Printing: The design is etched on

metal rollers that transfer colors and patterns to form a design directly onto the fabric.

– Rotary Screen Printing: The design is transferred onto a cylinder-shaped screen (for each color). Dye is forced through the a pattern of holes and rolled over the fabric.