LIVING FOOD & DRINK

The Heather Glen is a hidden gemnestled away just outsideAinstable. We arrived on a cold

winter’s evening with the country houseresplendent in its frost covered grounds.Once inside, the traditional lounge bararea was warm and bustling with peopleas the Christmas party season was in fullswing. We settled down at a cosy table inthe corner near the roaring fire.

After a few drinks, we were shownthrough to the dining room, a light, airyspace, which although busy, wasspacious with large, well-arranged tablesallowing the conversation to flow. Thedécor was modern with lots of nicetouches but still in keeping with thetraditional look and feel of the rest of thebuilding. The waiting staff were veryattentive and it was refreshing to eatsomewhere with enough trained staff todeal with the number of customers.

I started with a favourite of mine:crispy breaded brie. A large wedge whichoozed irresistibly was offset by a tangyMadeira, orange and redcurrant sauce.The rich and creamy cheese was cutthrough with a fresh, crisp salad ofpeppers, leaves and red grapes.

My partner went for the sautéedhaggis and black pudding in a blackpepper and brandy cream sauce. Againthe portion was generous and both wereearthy and well flavoured. The sauce wasrich, and greedily polished off with awarm crusty roll.

After my ample starter I opted foranother filling main course. On a coldwinter’s night there is nothing better than

a warm, hearty pie and I was in luck. Thegame pie raised jealous eyebrows whenit arrived with a thick puff pastry top thatmelted in the mouth. Delving through thepastry I was met with a variety of tendergame from pheasant to rabbit cooked toperfection in a thick red-wine gravy.

My partner had the picanha steak, aparticularly succulent cut of the rumpnow finding favour with Cumbrianrestaurants. This one was servedperfectly rare (itself still a rarity) with morehaggis and a Cumberland mustardsauce. The accompanying crispy chipsand perfectly firm vegetables completeda generous and tasty dish.

After two substantial courses I sadlyhad to forego the scrumptious lookingchocolate orange roulade. My partnerhad no such qualms and got stuckstraight in to a red berry crème brûlée.The top cracked perfectly to give way toa smooth light custard and berrieshidden at the bottom. In the end though Igave in and had to help polish off the lastof it with a piece of the delicioushomemade shortbread.

The Heather Glen proved a wonderfulsurprise, a country house setting but withnone of the faded charm and stuffinessthat can burden such places. Instead, wewere treated to great food and service ina warm, convivial atmosphere. Withrooms also available there’s a goodexcuse for another visit and a fewwhiskys in the lounge!

Reviewed by Jenny WoolgarPictures by Phil Rigby

THE HEATHER GLEN, AINSTABLE Restaurant review

Nothing stuffy about this wonderful gem

CL

THE BILLCrispy breaded brie £ 5.40Black pudding and haggis £ 5.40Game pie £12.50Picanha steak £13.75Red berry creme brulee £4.90250ml Panul sauvignon blanc wine £4.95Pint of Black Sheep £ 2.90Total: £ 49.80

The Heather Glen Country House,Ainstable, CA4 9QQ Tel: 01768 896219

CARLISLE LIVING FEBRUARY 2012 65