canadian jeweller magazine september october 2008

S E P T E M B E R • O C T O B E R 2 0 0 8

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MINDHAM FINE JEWELLERY’S MYLES MINDHAM

PLUS:ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

MileGoing That Extra

CJEExxcceelllleennccee iinn DDeessiiggnn::THE WINNERS ARE…

c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e rm a g a z i n e

OVER125 YEARSIN THE BUSINESS OFRETAILING JEWELLERY

OOrriiggiinnaall GG..MASTER DESIGNER

SIMON GHANIMIAN SPEAKS

SShhaaddeess ooff GGlloorryyA NEW LOOK AT COLOURED

DIAMOND FLUORESCENCE

HHoolliiddaayy TTrreennddssSTYLES AND CATEGORIES

YOU NEED TO STOCK

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0.96ct.Canadian RocksDiamond Ring I+, SI3

Limited Quantities

CANADA HAS ONE SOURCE FOR DIAMONDS

T. 1.800.379.1777

SGI is a member of the Group of Companies.

This and so much more. Diamonds of all shapes and sizes, both loose and mounted.There is only one source for diamonds in the Edmonton and Toronto Canadian Jewellery Shows.

Come early to see the huge selections.

C

Collections by JCKVancouver #901

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GIVEAWAYWith a minimum

purchase of $30,000, a 1.00ct Canadian Fancy

Diamond I+, SI3+ will be given away (including a

semi-mount).

0

CANADIAN JEWELLERY SHOW SPECIALS

CANADIAN ROUND DIAMONDS

35% below Rap Listno charge for 14k mount

CANADIAN FANCY DIAMONDS

45% below Rap Listno charge for 14k mount

CJ_006-7_SGI DPS.qxd:Layout 1 9/11/08 1:59 PM Page 45

8 CJ S E P T E M B E R • O C T O B E R 2 0 0 8

CONTRIBUTORS Glen A. Beres, Robin Gambhir, Scott Jordan,Daniel Marquez, Tim Mogg, Duvall O’Steen,Russell Shor, Ania Sroka

SALESLucy Holden INTERNATIONAL SALES MANAGER/

MARKETPLACETEL. (514) 381-5196 FAX (514) 381-6223EMAIL [email protected]

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALESTEL. (416) 508-2382 FAX (416) 703-6392EMAIL [email protected]

Melissa Badr CIRCULATION MANAGERTEL. (416) 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392EMAIL [email protected]

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8TEL. (416) 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2TEL. (514) 381-5196 FAX (514) 381-6223TOLL FREE 1-888-358-8186 ext 6117

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents ofany advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. Thepublisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’sliability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part,without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial con-sideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic orhard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet,disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor,Canadian Jeweller magazine.

ESTABLISHED 1879 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 • VOL. 129, NO. 5

Subscription RatesCanada — one year, $35; two years, $45; three years $55. United States — one year, US$44. Foreign — one year US$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’

Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more

subscriptions, $17.50 per subscription per year (Canada only).

Change of Addressemail: [email protected] telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392

or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,

Suite 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8

Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | [email protected] Lowe Assistant to the President | [email protected]

Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | [email protected] Saso Associate Editor | [email protected] Yeh Associate Editor | [email protected]

Lisa de Nikolits Creative Director | [email protected] Karjala Designer | [email protected] Ross Designer | [email protected]

Christine Ager-Smyth Production Manager | [email protected]

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | [email protected]

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Contentstable of


66

72

82

September • October 2008

Features63 Making an Impression

Establishing your business with an effective store design.

66 Going that Extra MileBehind the scenes at Mindham Fine Jewellery.

72 Excellent by DesignThe winners of this year’s Excellence in Design competition.

78 Shades of GloryThe fine details behind coloured diamond fluorescence.

82 A Gold StatementJust how profitable is the Canadian gold jewellery market?

86 Brand and Deliver Part II: Your Brand in ActionBuilding a strategic marketing and merchandising plan.

90 Trends in the MakingFavourites for the fall and holiday seasons.

94 JCK Toronto: Canada’s Leading Jewellery Trade ShowBehind the scenes at this year’s exciting exhibitor booths.

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September • October 2008

Departments14 Director’s Note

16 Product Showcase

22 Who’s NewsWestern Canadian Jewellery Expo announces thepassing of Russ Wickstrom; New Head Designer forPlatinum Unlimited; Chairman announced forCanadian Jewellers Association.

26 For the RecordOMEGA releases special update; Ernst Benz introducesBeijing 2008 Chronoscope; Stuller launches newwedding band.

34 Stock Index

36 Mining NewsGem ban could hurt Burmese miners; Ontario

Mining Association plans workshop; Peregrine findsdiamonds at Nunavut site.

38 Mining FeatureWhat makes a diamond truly Canadian?

42 Tech NewsScale weighs gold atoms; eDiamondselect’s latestprogram; new simultaneous diamond andmoissanite tester.

44 Tech FeatureGV Design Canada promotes latest software.

46 Bench FeatureHandling coloured gems.

48 Designer ProfileSimon G.

52 Face ValueConsidering all the factors in cost and value.

56 Company ProfileRare & Precious Gems

59 Market WatchGeomarketing

88 Star WatchTrends for the Emmy red carpet.

96 What’s On

98 Showcase

100 Market Place

104 Fax Back

105 Last Word

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For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 104.

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Simply Brilliant

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director’snote

Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s Excellence in Design competition has earned a

reputation as one of Canada’s premiere design events. In fact, it’s Canada’s only

national jewellery design competition, and we’re very proud to be in the position to

help designers from across the country showcase their collective masterpieces.

This year’s competition was bigger and better than ever, as we were all treated to

some of the most unique and remarkable precious works to be found anywhere in the

world. You can find out who took home the “hardware” on page 72. To celebrate all of

the entrants, we held the first of what will be many gala events at the close of JCK

Toronto, where competitors and key industry members gathered for a few drinks and

some good food, as we all celebrated a truly remarkable show. Thanks to all who

attended, and we look forward to seeing you again next year.

Until then, enjoy this latest issue of CJ, which continues our renewed commitment

to focusing on the business of jewellery. You’ll be pleased to note we’ve added yet

another regular feature, Designer Profile, which in this case, tells the tale of master

craftsman, Simon G. We’re also excited to have Myles Mindham of Mindham Fine

Jewellery gracing our cover, and we’re “tickled pink” to enlighten you on the latest

happenings at Rare & Precious Gems.

As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions, and look forward to

playing a critical role in helping you realize all your business objectives.

To your success,

Bryan Soroka

Director, Editorial & Communications

Bryan Soroka

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Payment processing from TD Merchant Services gives you the reliability and support your business needs to stay up and running smoothly. As the only payment processing service offered to you directly by a major fi nancial institution, we understand the importance itplays in your business. In fact, only TD Merchant Services offers a 4-hour on-site service promise, 7 days a week in most major centres.¹ This commitment is backed by over 250 technicians across the country, as well a 24/7 technical support line. Find out for yourself why retailers, large and small, look to us to take the stress out of payment processing.

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Quartz CollectionSiffari is proud to introduce the Quartz Collection. All items areavailable in a variety of brilliant colours; Lemon, Light Yellow, MintGreen, Olive and Cognac. Siffari products can be customized in 10K,14K or 18K white or yellow gold. Suggested retail pricing rangesfrom $550 - $2,000. For more information, write 110 on the FreeInfo Card on page 104.

Canadian Eskimo Arctic Ice DiamondsEskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds is one of Canada’s oldest andmost recognized brands of Canadian diamonds. Each diamondis laser engraved and triple certified, allowing your customer totrack the true origin of his or her symbol of everlasting love.Eskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds are guaranteed Canadian throughthe Canada Mark tracking process. For more information,write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 104.

FiretraceGS Laboratories introduces Firetrace,which nowmakes it possible for clients toaccurately measure the light performanceof their diamonds. This technologyanalyzes the light-reflecting properties ofa diamond and allows you to determinehow much life is in your stones — onemore way that GS Laboratories can helpyou ensure your diamonds stand out in acrowd. For more information, write 112on the Free Info Card on page 104.


productshowcase

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Pink DiamondsPink Diamonds by Rare & Precious Gems symbolize glamour,feminine beauty, and are believed to inspire creativeexpression making them the premiere choice of Hollywoodstars. Argyle Pink Diamonds, sold through an exclusive tender,are truly one-in-a-million gems coveted by luxury jewelleryretailers, celebrities and private collectors. For moreinformation, write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 104.

Mirage Cut Eternity BandThe Mirage Cut Eternity Band is custom-made withperfectly matching diamonds. Individual diamond sizesrange from 0.15 ct to 5.00+ ct each. Also available in halfeternity, earrings, pendants and solitaire diamonds.Each Mirage Cut Diamond is a brilliant work of art, with33 carefully cut facets to create a beautiful array of fireand brilliance, which is easily visible by the naked eye. Formore information, write 114 on the Free Info Card onpage 104.

Pour HommePour Homme, the new men’s jewellery line fromGee n Gee Importers, is a collection of over 30unique styles. Each design features bold linesinspired by the virtues of strength, distinctionand success. This contemporary men’s line ishandcrafted with regard to quality. For moreinformation, write 116 on the Free Info Card onpage 104.


productshowcase

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PANDORA Mix and MatchPANDORA introduces a brand new type of earringthat lets you create the right look to match yourmood, that special occasion or the hottest fashions.The earrings consist of a number of hoops insterling silver and 14K gold and no less than 74different charms. For more information, write 118on the Free Info Card on page 104.

Rio Tinto DiamondsRio Tinto Diamonds represents the diamond minesof the Rio Tinto Group, one of the world’s leadingmining companies. Through its 100% ownership ofthe Argyle mine, Rio Tinto is the world’s largestsupplier of champagne diamonds, producingapproximately US$150 million of rough champagnediamonds annually. Argyle produces more than 90%of the world’s rare pink diamonds and they are soldin a broad range of colours and sizes, with the beststones, the Signature Stones, reserved for the annualPink Diamond Tender. For more information,write 120 on the Free Info Card on page 104.

The Hallmark of Quality Canadian DiamondSpecialists in D to F colour, top makes and outstandingservice, with 30 years of uncompromising gradingstandards, Regal protects the retailer with consistency,and guarantees its grading by any laboratory in theworld. The Hallmark of Quality Canadian Diamondcomplies 100% with the Canadian Diamond Code ofConduct and monitors the whole process of mining,production and cutting under one operation. For moreinformation, write 119 on the Free Info Card on page 104.


productshowcase

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568 999 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC V6C 3E1 - Toll Free: 1 877 689 7273 - email: [email protected]

Brokers of Rare Jewels

rareandpreciousgems.com

TM

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who’snews


New Head Designer forPlatinum UnlimitedPlatinum Unlimited is pleased to announcethe appointment of Rachel Tucker as HeadDesigner of its Platinum Art division. Bornin Winnipeg, Manitoba, Rachel moved toCalgary, Alberta, in 1995 to pursue hereducation in the field of Commercial Art.She graduated from the Alberta College ofArt and Design in 1999 with a Bachelor ofFine Arts degree, majoring in VisualCommunications and Illustration.Since childhood, Rachel has had an

immeasurable passion for design, sketchingfashion and jewellery pieces from an earlyage. After graduating, she worked in fashionand freelance illustration before she beganher career in fine jewellery design in 2002.She quickly earned a reputation as apremiere designer, working with some ofthe finest jewellers in Western Canada.Rachel is equally at home with both

modern and traditional designs. Her workoften reflects her special interest in jewelleryof previous eras, from ancient Egypt toArt Nouveau to ’50s Modern andromantically re-interpreting it for the21st century. “My background in illustrationhas been a tremendous benefit,” she hasbeen quoted as saying. “Customers lovehaving the personal touch of a drawing orgouache rendering of their piece ofjewellery, especially when we have workedtogether on the design process.”

Rachel Tucker

Russ Wickstrom

Remembering Russ WickstromIt is with profound sadness that theWestern Canadian Jewellery Expo announcesthe passing of one of its foundingmembers, Russ Wickstrom.Russ was a longtime member of the

Alberta Jewellery Travellers Association.During his career, Russ held variouspositions on local and national boards.He was President of the Canadian JewellerTravellers Association and, most recently,Vice President of the Alberta CommercialTravellers, St. Albert branch. He preferredto be the man behind the scenes and notin the limelight, so he spent many hoursvolunteering getting the job done.Russ was born August 11, 1936, in Gull

Lake, Saskatchewan. He married LeslieMachan on March 4, 1958. He is survivedby his wife of 50 years, daughter TraceyCarnochan (Terry), Patricia Wickstrom andnephews Tyler and Ryan Carnochan. Hewas predeceased by daughter, Cheryl. Russwas very family-orientated and lovedvacations, whether it be family reunionsor trips to Mexico.

Garo Baler

Find out who ismaking headlines inthe jewellery industry.

CJA Announces GaroBaler as ChairmanThe Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) ispleased to announce the appointment ofGaro Baler as Chairman of the Board ofDirectors for 2008-2009. Garo’s experiencein the jewellery business dates back to 1963,when he worked as an apprentice in ajewellery shop before opening his first tinystore in a bustling covered bazaar in 1969 inhis native Istanbul, Turkey.Garo’s proudArmenian heritage encouraged

a sense of youthful wanderlust. His career asa jeweller took him to Italy and Belgiumwhere he was involved in the gold jewelleryand diamond trade between Europe and theMiddleEast.Hiswork-related travels eventuallyled him to Canada, his final destination. In1981, Garo, along with his brother Raffi,established Armcan Sales Ltd. Both brothersknew that product differentiation was key fora new wholesaler just starting out in a highlycompetitive Canadian industry, especiallyduring an economic downturn.This year, Armcan is celebrating its 27th

year in business and has established itselfas an authority in providing a completeselection of jewellery programs nationwide.Garo originally served on the CJA Board inthe ’90s and was re-elected to the Boardin 2005.He served as Treasurer on theExecutive Committee in 2007.

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who’snews

Omega Appreciates CrawfordOMEGA discovered exactly how manymembers of the media its pavilion on theOlympic Green would accommodate whenits longest-serving brand ambassador,supermodel Cindy Crawford, made a liveappearance in Beijing on August 14, 2008. Acrush of photographers and television filmcrews surrounded Crawford as sheand OMEGA President, Stephen Urquhart,took the stage with bilingual moderator,Lynn Ding.Stephen Urquhart spoke warmly about

the many years OMEGA has worked withthe model, saying “Cindy Crawfordembodies the qualities and virtues whichmake her an ideal spokesperson for ourbrand – she is credible and reliable and shehas contributed substantially to OMEGA’sprofile as a fashion brand. These have been13 very happy years.” After theirpresentation from the OMEGA stage,Stephen Urquhart gave Cindy Crawford atour of the OMEGA pavilion, where shespent time at the watchmakers’ bench andvisited some of the other exhibits in thedisplay area.

Roger Dubuis Names New CEORichemont and Swiss watch company,Roger Dubuis SA, have appointed MatthiasSchuler as Chief Executive Officer of thewatch brand, effective immediately.Schuler was previously Chief OperatingOfficer of IWC, where he developedsignificant expertise in the Swiss watchindustry. Carlos Dias, the founder, primaryshareholder and former Chief ExecutiveOfficer of Roger Dubuis SA, has reportedlyleft the Company.

Goldsmith Steps Behind CameraA goldsmith and 24-karat gold jewellerydesigner has stepped behind the camera forhis new advertising campaign, reportsWWDMarkets. Gurhan — who is onlyknown by the one name — said, “I’ve beenpracticing photography since the beginningout of necessity, now it’s a hobby.” Thephotographs are artistic ensembles ofhis pieces and cover all the collections hehas created.According to Gurhan, he first fell in love

with gold when he saw a sheet of pure24-karat gold at a Turkish souk 14 yearsago. From this, Gurhan (who is Turkish)started to study ancient techniques injewellery making and developed hissignature style of hammering the soft metal.

Supermodel Cindy Crawford made alive appearance in Beijing.

Several limited edition items are createdeach year based on objects Gurhan hascollected, such as an Egyptian scarab orgold coin. Celebrity fans of Gurhan includeJennifer Lopez, Courtney Cox Arquetteand Gwen Stefani.

Corum Names SergeWeinberg ChairmanCorum has announced the appointment ofSerge Weinberg as its new Chairman of theBoard, replacing the recently deceasedSeverin Wunderman. Weinberg is theformer Chairman of the management boardof the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Group, anumbrella company for a group of brandsthat include the Gucci Group and Puma.“I welcome Serge Weinberg to our Corum

Board,” Michael Wunderman, CreativeDirector of the board and son of SeverinWunderman, said in a media release. “Myfather’s passing was a sudden shock andan incredible loss. My family and I arefortunate to have my father’s dear friendSerge join us to continue the success ofCorum and honour my father’s legacy asa pioneer in the Swiss watch industry.Working together, I am confident that wewill continue the success of Corum as oneof the fastest-growing luxury watchcompanies in the world.” [CJ]


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©

LIFE HAS ITS MOMENTS.. .

. . .MAKE THEM UNFORGETTABLE

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news trends events

A. Jaffe Creates Fashion JewelleryA. Jaffe is premiering a new range of bridaland fashion jewellery that hits stores acrossthe U.S. in October. This is the first time inthe Company’s 100-year history that they aredebuting a fashion jewellery collection. Theunderlying theme behind the new jewellerydesigns is “every occasion is special.” The newcollections are meant to inspire and remindconsumers that the every day moments in lifeare the most worthwhile. With over 50 newpieces, the new collections features rings,pendants, earrings, bracelets and banglesranging in price from $1,000.00 to $8,000.00.

“Evolving over the last 100 years, theA. Jaffe brand is proud to bring ourcustomers quality fashion jewellery that isvery luxurious, yet still affordable,” says SamSandberg, CEO of A. Jaffe. “We will continueto produce quality bridal jewellery as well asexpand on our design processes. We intendto evolve our product offerings as seen in thenew fashion lines so that the legacy that isA. Jaffe continues for generations to come.”

Charles & Colvard AnnounceAuthorized RetailersToday’s shoppers are using the web toresearch and buy jewellery more than everbefore, which is why Charles & Colvard, Ltd.has launched, “The Moissanite created byCharles & Colvard™ Authorized InternetRetailer Program.” This new program is ajoint effort between Charles & Colvard andselect retailers. All the new e-commerceretailers in the program are establishedInternet organizations and have beenprescreened, met the program criteria andhave been sponsored by a Charles & Colvarddistributor or manufacturer.

For customers, shopping for moissanitethrough the authorized Internet retailerprogram helps ensure satisfaction andauthenticity of the moissanite theypurchase. Plus, by using the select group ofretailers, it guarantees that the customer’spurchase is accompanied by the Charles &Colvard Certificate of Authenticity andLimited Warranty.

Ernst Benz Introduces Beijing 2008ChronoscopeErnst Benz recently launched the Beijing 2008Limited Edition Chronoscope tocommemorate Beijing’s historic year. Thisintroduction marks a new series that will bereleased bi-annually to celebrate the greatcities of the world. In designing thistimepiece, Leonid Khankin, Ernst BenzDesigner and Managing Director, foundinspiration in Chinese numerology and thenumber eight, a continuous and perfectlysymmetrical number that is a sign ofprosperity and wealth in Chinese culture.Designed and manufactured in Switzerland,this limited edition chronoscope is availableexclusively in Ernst Benz’s signature 47mmsize with two different dial executions: noir(black) and vermilion (China red) with bothversions limited to only 88 pieces hand-finishedin brushed stainless steel.

Martin Flyer Brand Wins JA Golden AppleMartin Flyer won the 2008 JA Golden AppleFusion Award, which was announced at thesummer 2008 JA (Jeweler’s of America) tradeshow. The Fusion Award honours theexhibitor who successfully coordinatedpromotions, advertising and publicityprograms with a consistent message.

In early 2008, Martin Flyer launched“The Inseparable Campaign,” a strategicpublic relations, advertising, marketingand promotional initiative for its FlyerFitcollection – a series of engagement ring andwedding band sets designed to fit togetherperfectly. Under the tagline, “When TwoBecome One,” the Company launched aninnovative new print advertisement featuringan illustration of a “perfect couple” whose lovemirrors the perfect fit of FlyerFit sets. MartinFlyer also launched its PR campaign for theyear, generating news-based press releases andexecuting an entire brand messaging andimage overhaul. The ongoing press outreachand advertising spreads have resulted inexposure and visibility in some of the toptrade and consumer magazines, includingBrides,Modern Bride and InStyle.

The Nature of DiamondsThe Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) isproud to present The Nature of Diamonds,the most wide-ranging exhibition everdeveloped on the allure of diamonds.From Saturday, October 25, 2008 toSunday, March 22, 2009, the exhibitionwill be displayed in the Garfield WestonExhibition Hall, located on Level B2 in theROM’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal. At thistime, the ROM is the sole Canadianvenue to host the exhibition during itsexclusive North American tour.The Nature of Diamonds is one

prominent component of the ROM’sA Season of Gems. Another notableelement is the Teck Cominco Suite ofEarth Sciences Galleries, scheduled toopen in December 2008. This 6,900square-foot permanent gallery spacewill showcase the ROM’s exceptionalspecimens of minerals, gems, rocks, andmeteorites, a collection among the finestin North America. Occupying the entirelength of the second floor of the WestonFamily Wing, the Teck Cominco Suite isdivided into the Vale Inco Limited Galleryof Minerals, the Canadian Mining Hall ofFame Gallery and the Gallery of Gemsand Gold. The fascinating displays arecontextualized and illuminated by over 50interactive touch stations and compellingvideo exhibits.

cuff bracelets on display at the ROM

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S E P T E M B E R • O C T O B E R 2 0 0 8 CJ 27

Romanian Gold Smugglers to be TriedA group of people who allegedly attemptedto smuggle ancient gold bracelets out ofRomania are to be tried, reports theInternational Herald Tribune. Between1996 and 2005, the 10 individualsapparently stole an assortment of jewelleryand coins to be sold on the internationalblack market. The artifacts were swipedfrom Sarmizegetusa Regia, which is anarchaeological site owned by the governmentin the north west of Romania.

Prosecutors for the case said thedefendants will be charged “with illegallydigging at a historical site, concealing stolengoods and stealing items of nationalheritage.” The 15 2,000-year-old spiral-shapedgold bracelets taken from the dig are said tohave been the most valuable objects taken.Only nine have been recovered so far andthese are valued together at a minimum ofthree million euros. Over 30 more peopleare being investigated as part of the case.

DTC Releasing More Money For AdsThe Diamond Trading Co. (DTC) isreleasing a “special allocation” of co-opmarketing funds to help boost U.S. holidaysales of diamond jewellery for a select groupof sightholders.

According to DTC spokeswoman,Louise Prior, the funds came as the resultof a request from sightholders for moremarketing support for their retailers duringthe fourth quarter this year. She pointed outthat the funds are not part of any kind ofgeneric marketing campaign for diamonds.The DTC, which is the marketing arm ofDe Beers, has cut back on generic diamondadvertising recently because De Beers nolonger controls the majority of the world’ssupply of diamonds.

Exclusive New Collection UnveiledA new jewellery range using several types ofgold has been unveiled by the Rivoli Group.The luxury retailer, which was founded in1988, has announced a new collection ofwhite and yellow gold inset with preciousstones such as sapphires, diamonds andtopaz. The new items include bracelets,earrings, pendants and rings for women.Ramesh Prabhakar, Managing Partner at thefirm, said the new range will “cater to theconstant demand in the market for elegantjewellery of high quality.”

The Rivoli Group has a network of retailoutlets in the United Arab Emirates andlower Gulf States. It is one of the MiddleEast’s largest importers and retailers ofluxury brands, dealing in items such aswatches, pens, accessories and eyewear. Lastyear it was named Premium Luxury Retailerof the Year at the Retail ME Awards. TheGroup also won the Branding Award of theYear at the CEO Middle East Awards.

New Pearl Pendants for Larger PearlsFindings, Incorporated has introduced threenew pearl pendant findings for largerpearls. These new designs accommodate8mm and up sizes including Tahitianpearls. Available in 10, 14k, 18k yellowor white gold. Findings, Incorporatedis a leading producer of precious metalfindings, offering a broad range of styleoptions for manufacturers and wholesalerssince 1945.

New Design from RainbowRainbow e-motion of colors is an innovativeand absolutely new style and form ofvisualizing time on analogous timepieces.The new design, implementing aestheticallyappealing colours, lends a refreshingly newmeaning to the expression, “nice time.”

The concept, in its form and varietyof colours, was developed by the famousGerman artist, Paul Heimbach. Theglorious play of colours and theircharacteristic emotional features led himto time-steered colour pattern and displays.

Optically, the exceptionally strikingdesigns are excellently suited for readinganalogous time. All designs were createdusing the four basic colours: cyan, magenta,yellow and black.

AGTA Spectrum Awards AddsConsumer’s Choice HonorsThe American Gem Trade Association(AGTA), in conjunction with MVIMarketing, is introducing the Consumer’sChoice Honors to its 2009 AGTASpectrum Awards.

AGTA will automatically enter allparticipants in the AGTA Spectrum Awardsinto the Consumer’s Choice Honors, whichare sponsored by MVI’s Jewelry ConsumerOpinion Council (JCOC). There will be noadditional entry fee for these new honours.AGTA will forward to MVI all the details ofeach entry, along with quality digitalphotography for Internet display. TheJCOC will then create, develop and deploya consumer market-research study that willbe focused on selecting winning choices forthe Consumer’s Choice Honors awards.One consumer-selected winning style willbe identified in the same five categories ofthe traditional AGTA Spectrum Awards:Bridal, Business/Day Wear, Classical,Evening Wear and Men’s Wear.

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James Bond 007 Collector’sPiece is BackOMEGA will be releasing a specialupdate of the incredibly popularSeamaster Diver 300m James Bondwatch. Visually striking, the JamesBond 007 collector’s piece features apolished, lacquered black dial withblack gold plated hour markers filledwith white Super-LumiNova. Theluminous hour and minute hands arealso plated with black gold. The watchhas a central seconds hand with a redtip and a red “007” logo as acounterweight, which rotates in starkcontrast to its black dial. Only 10,007pieces of this exclusive Seamaster willbe produced. Paying tribute to OMEGA’slong partnership with the world’sfavourite secret agent, it is destined tobe an instant collector’s item. Thewatch has a distinctive polished andbrushed stainless steel case with adiameter of 41mm. Its specially designedbracelet is unique to the James Bondwatches and is one of the features thatmakes it immediately recognizable.Also, the watch has a scratch-resistant,anti-reflective domed crystal.

Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch


The JCOC will make a presentation to thefive winning designers at the AGTA GemFairTucson in February 2009 during the AGTASpectrum Awards Dinner Dance.

“The consumer is the most important voicein the jewellery industry,” MVI PresidentLiz Chatelain said in a media release.“Our JCOC panel will love to vote on theirfavourite jewellery designs, and we are lookingforward to honouring talented jewellerydesigners on behalf of our panelists.”

Image and Form CompetitionThe Russian Jewellery Fund’s “Image andForm” is presenting a jewellery competitionthis October in Saint-Petersburg, Russia.With a theme called, “The Game ofOrnaments,” the participation costs 100 euro.Participation is broken down into two agegroups: 15-23 and 24-40. The jury includesfamous art critics, professors and internationaljewellery designers such as Giampaolo Babbetoof Italy and Jan Walgrave, director of theAntwerp Art Museum in Belgium.

The ornamental pattern is one of the oldestforms used in the decoration of the humanenvironment. Ornamental patterns consistof rhythmically organized modules andintervals. These modules vary not onlyin shape and style, but also in theirinteraction with the surrounding space intwo-dimensional or three-dimensionalaspects. Designs are not restricted by anyrules of repeating the identical modules.Contestants are encouraged to play withshapes of different epochs, scale, colour, planeand volume, as well as a wide variety ofstructures, fabrics and materials. Winners areawarded with valuable prizes and gifts fromthe organizers and media.

Industry Objects to BroadeningPlatinum DefinitionA number of industry organizations havefiled a statement with the Federal TradeCommission (FTC), objecting to the FTC’sproposal to broaden the definition of theword “platinum.”

The FTC’s proposal, filed on February 20,would revise the guides for the jewellery,precious metals and pewter industries toallow the word platinum, or an abbreviation,to define an alloy of at least 500 parts perthousand platinum alloyed with base metals,as long as it clearly discloses it containsother non-platinum group metals. The FTCasked for comments from the industry onthe proposed changes, and the JewelersVigilance Committee (JVC),ManufacturingJewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA),Jewelers of America (JA) and the AmericanGem Society (AGS) filed a response.

The associations’ position maintains thatthe word “platinum” should be not be usedto describe an alloy combining platinum withnon-platinum group metals. In its response, thegroups state that they welcome new productsto the market that blend platinum with otherbase metals, but propose that marketers useterms other than “platinum” to describe alloyscontaining platinum and base metals.

Italian Jewellery Exports Looking UpExports of Italian gold jewellery are expectedto improve after an estimated 30% drop involume in the first half of the year to post afull-year fall of about 10%, a senior industryexpert said on September 9, 2008.

Italy, the world’s biggest exporter and theleader in design, has seen sales volumes falland market shares shrink thanks to competitionfrom India, China and Turkey, which have wonkey export markets due to their industries’improved quality and lower prices. “I expectan improvement from the situation in thefirst half of this year,” Stefano de Pascale,director of Italian goldsmiths’ associationFederorafi, told Reuters. “In value, we canexpect [full year] results in line with 2007.But if the value is translated into volume,we will have a ‘minus’ sign of about 10%,”de Pascale said. Exports of Italian jewellery –about 75% of which is sold abroad –dropped 30% in volume and 15% in valuein the first six months of this year, hit by highgold prices and weak consumer demand.

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Competition grows fierce in the gold jewellery market.



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Hannoush Jewelers a PlatinumAffiliate on GemFind.comGemFind.com, an online jewellerye-commerce portal, is proud to announceHannoush Jewelers, a progressive, nationwidejewellery chain with 25 Massachusetts-basedretail locations, has just signed exclusiveterritory rights as a Platinum Affiliate onGemFind.com. With online jewellery salesexpected to exceed $5 billion in 2008,GemFind.com helps retailers and designersto capitalize on the online sales marketplace,brand their company and showcase theirdesigns to millions of consumers.GemFind.com allows consumers to searchand purchase online, as well as having theoption to see the jewellery at their affiliates’retail location.

After opening its doors in 1980, HannoushJewelers has built a network that includesover 70 company-owned and franchiselocations throughout the United States.Although Hannoush Jewelers has a dedicatedwebsite and retails online, they believe theiraffiliation with GemFind.com willsubstantially increase their consumerawareness and sell-through.

Stuller Shatters Sales RecordStuller recently announced record-breakingcombined sales results from its four booths atthe JCK Show in Las Vegas.“At this year’s JCKshow, we experienced the largest sales volumefor any trade show in Stuller’s 37-yearhistory,” said Bob Cox, Executive VicePresident of sales. “While this year’s salestotals are still being processed, at the presenttime, we’re up nine percent over our previousbest in 2007.”

The Lafayette, LA-based manufacturer alsosaw “substantial increases in the opening ofnew accounts” at the show, according toHarold Dupuy, G.G., Executive Vice Presidentof merchandising and marketing. “Theseresults indicate that jewellers are respondingto our efforts to provide new solutions to aidthem during difficult times,” Dupuy said.“It also reinforces Stuller’s ‘Just In Time’delivery system as an added value to retailerswhen cash flow is tighter.”

PNG Wins AwardPNG has won the award for Best GoldJewellery of the Year 2008 at the recentNational Awards for Excellence in Jewelleryheld in Mumbai. This is the third year in arow the jeweller has won the prize. Over5,000 jewellers in India entered the manycategories hosted by the awards.

The winning piece was a gold necklace calledBella, which was created to resemble ajasmine flower. Saurabh Gadgil, Partner atPNG, said: “This necklace is designed in sucha way for multipurpose use for today’swoman – modern look with traditionalqualities.” PNG said the design of the necklacewas also created to symbolize the confidence,aspirations and personality of a modern andtraditional woman. This year, the jeweller hascelebrated its 175th anniversary andestablished itself in the city of Pune in 1958where it now has four showrooms.

Tiffany Appeals Ruling in eBay’s FavourTiffany & Co. appealed a ruling by a federaldistrict court that online auction house,eBay Inc., does not have legal responsibilityto keep its users from selling counterfeititems. Judge Richard Sullivan of FederalDistrict Court in Manhattan made the rulingin July in the case involving San Jose,California-based eBay, reaffirming thatInternet companies aren’t legally requiredto actively police their sites for trademarkedor copyrighted material.

The companies, instead, may rely on theholders of intellectual property to monitorthe sites. In return the sites are required totake down offending material when they’renotified about it.

New York-based Tiffany appealed to theU.S. Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit,and General Counsel Patrick Dorsey said theeffect of the ruling, “is that eBay can continueto profit at the expense of consumers andtrademark holders.”

“Tiffany’s decision to carry this litigationon after the District Court’s decision doesn’tdo anything to combat counterfeiting,” sayseBay. “The best way to stop counterfeiting isongoing collaboration between companies,government agencies and law enforcement.”

ICA International Poster CompetitionThe International Colored GemstoneAssociation will conduct its fifth internationalposter competition at its next congress fromMay 5-10, 2009, in Panyu, Guangzhou(China’s largest jewellery manufacturing area).Participation in these competitions, dedicatedto the promotion of coloured gemstones, hasgrown to more than 150 posters from nearly30 countries. Sponsors for the ICA Congress2009 are the National Gemstone Testing Centerin Beijing, the China Council for thePromotion of International Trade PanyuBranch andWoldmart Jewelry & GemsEmporium (HK) Ltd.

The posters should be colourful, sized35-50cm (12-20 inch) and should carry theICA logo and official name, which can bedownload from the ICA website. A writtenslogan can be added. All writteninformation should be in English, however,ICA strongly encourages designers to alsoadd the slogan in their national languageand express the vast interest in colouredgemstones worldwide. The deadline forsubmitting posters is December 31, 2008.ICA officials and members of the publicwill compose the judging committee.

Timely Tradition for DesignerA known trendsetter among watchmakers,Switzerland-born John Isaac reinvents hisfamily tradition in perfecting watch dials forhis very own collection of designer timepieces,which arrived exclusively at Holt Renfrewthis month. These personally designedautomatic watches, assembled by an eliteteam of craftsmen in Geneva, are bestidentified by off-beat motifs of animal themes,abstract symbols and floral hints engulfedby alligator straps with stunning finishes.

Ernst Benz New LimitedEdition CollectionInspired by Mr. Benz’s original aircraftinstrumentation, Ernst Benz’s new limitededition collection of watches featuresdials available in matte ($5,100) orcarbon fibre mesh ($5,600). They’re alsoavailable in white for legibility or orange,which in aviation stands for attention.The Company is also introducingLEVIEV ’s art deco inspired bracelet,which features 39 round-brilliant-cutdiamonds weighing 10.61 carats and24 square-emerald-cut diamondstotalling 2.15 carats. Accentuated by acollection of white pave diamonds, thismagnificent piece totals 25.87 carats,and is handcrafted in platinum.

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Ernst Benz’s LEVIEV bracelet

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Out of just 999 watches created for thiscollection worldwide, only 50 will be availableto the Canadian market.

Isaac designs his ambiguous line with atouch of femininity, claiming that watchtrends are leaning toward a sleeker, daintiersilhouette. The young designer’s museembodies eccentric feminine elements, whichis why the collection draws the attention ofstarlets like Gwyneth Paltrow and NataliePortman, who both own Isaac’s timepieces.

Rapaport Launches Chinese NetworkThe Rapaport Group’s RapNet DiamondTrading Network has launched RapNetChina, the first multilingual Chinese andEnglish diamond-trading network. RapNetChina gives Chinese diamond buyers directaccess to global diamond markets and givesforeign diamond suppliers direct access toChinese buyers, setting a new standard fordiamond traders in the Far East. Thesetraders will now be able to deal directly witheach other without any commission,advancing both the local Chinese marketand the global marketplace. The RapNetprofessional trading community has morethan 3,800 members with daily diamondlistings of more than 425,000 diamondsvalued at more than $3.2 billion.

Renato Watches Inc. Announces 2009Expansion InitiativesRenato Watches Inc. has announced its 2009expansion initiatives, which include anaggressive web, television and retail strategy,driven by its ‘direct-to-customer’ businessmodel. Renato’s expansion plan for 2009includes the continuation of sales onShopNBC as its primary vehicle, supportedby international expansion efforts throughthe Shopping Channel of Canada, QVCGermany and QVC UK. Additionally, theCompany will focus its efforts on the webwith distribution networks throughPranaGioia.com (an e-boutique for luxurywatches) and continuing with ShopNBC.com(ShopNBC’s web component).

Plans to expand its retail presencethrough international distributors and salesagents are currently in progress, with astrong focus on Gulf locations such asDubai, Greece, Turkey and Cypress.The expansion plan also calls for theestablishment of licensed Renato boutiquesin a variety of international markets.

Additionally, Renato plans to focus its U.S.expansion efforts on opening retail doors indomestic, high-end stores such as Tourneau,Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

Gold in Demand for Asian CelebrationsIndians are buying large amounts of gold asthe festive season is due to kick off in thecountry, it has been reported.

Hindu marriages are usually held betweenSeptember and November, causing a surge indemand for gold jewellery. According toReuters India, gold is the most common giftfor Indian religious festivities and it “formsan essential part of the dowry basket.”Managing Director of American PreciousMetals Advisors, Jeffrey Nichols, told ReutersIndia that because of the advent of themarriage season, “India should providestrong support to the world market.”

In addition, demand for gold fromIndonesia is expected to rise as the world’slargest Muslim nation gears up for theRamadan fasting month, the news agencyclaimed. The Hindu Business Line alsorecently reported that the main branch ofthe State Bank of India, located inCoimbatore, is experiencing a shortage ofgold due to the festival period.

Long’s Jewelers Win ChallengePlatinum Guild International (PGI) andMartha Stewart Weddings are pleased toannounce the winner of the 2008“3-Platinum Bridal Ring Display Challenge,”a national platinum merchandise displaycontest. The award was presented to Long’sJewelers, Boston’s premiere retailer for high-enddesigner jewellery, at the Summer 2008 JA Showin New York City.

The contest challenged retailers to createan innovative display for merchandising thethree-platinum bridal rings (engagement ringand his and her wedding bands) as a set,while communicating platinum’s pure, rareand eternal qualities. The contest wasdesigned to educate retailers about thepotential sales opportunity by merchandisingand displaying all three rings together.

Long’s Jewelers’ winning display featuredplatinum bridal ring sets by designersMemoire,Ritani andDiana Classic. Additionally,the display ambiance was enhanced by atableware set by Platinum on Porcelain byMichael Wainwright and a platinumpicture frame. As the grand prize winner,Long’s Jewelers’ display will be showcasedon the promotional pages of theMartha Stewart Weddings Fall 2008 issue.They will also receive a custom trophyand a lunch for their staff, catered byMartha Stewart Weddings.

Stuller Develops Wedding BandStuller is launching a new wedding banddesigned to allow retailers to sell ataccessible and profitable price points.The Luxecor wedding bands are 25%lighter than regular wedding bands whilemaintaining superior strength with aclassic look. “Using patent-pendingtechnology, we have found a way forretailers to overcome high metal marketpricing,” says Matt Stuller, CEO andfounder of Stuller. “Our goal was todevelop a product that helps retailers sellwedding bands for a profit duringchallenging times. Luxecor is a lighterband with the same great look at theright price.”Each Luxecor wedding band, which is

manufactured in Stuller’s facility locatedin Chattanooga, TN, comes with alifetime warranty. According to JP Walrond,Stuller’s Vice President of bridal jewellery,this added element of security, alongwith accessible price points, has led to“brisk sales since its introduction at theJCK Las Vegas show in June.”“We wanted to provide an accessibly-

priced band without sacrificing quality,”Walrond says. “And our technology hasallowed us to do so within our just-in-timeovernight delivery system. The warrantyhas also been an appreciated ‘valueadded’ feature of the line.”

Luxecor wedding bands

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For more information write to: Castaldo, 120 Constitution Blvd., Franklin, MA 02038USA today.

Better yet visit the VLT® web page now!

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PranaGioia Relaunches Web BoutiqueE-commerce wholesaler for jewellery andwatches, Prana Gioia Ltd., has relaunchedits website to increase its online presence.The new site offers a unique E-commerceexperience based on Prana Gioia’s coremission: to sell premium products whileallowing brands to maintain their individualidentities. The Company will launch fourexclusive watch brands, including VaBene,Ritmo Mundo, Quadtec and Renato, withplans to expand in the near future.

“Our customer service component is adistinct benefit to our e-commerce business,”deems Ana Martins, spokesperson for theCompany. “Individually, many brands do nothave the proper infrastructure to accommodatehigh-volume online sales. Our holistic,brand-centric approach allows us to prioritizecustomer interaction and build ongoingrelationships with them.” [CJ]

CGTA Award WinnersThe Canadian Gift and TablewareAssociation (CGTA) poured throughhundreds of submissions to the 2008GTA Top 10 Product Award Competitionto find the most innovative giftwareproducts of the year. Winners, whichincluded Giftcraft Ltd.’s “City GypsiesSnake Necklace,” were honoured atthe awards gala dinner on August 10,attended by more than 600 giftwaresuppliers and retailers. Available inbronze, gold and silver, the steel CityGypsies Snake Necklace bends intoany shape for endless possibilities tocomplement any look. It is alsoavailable in ring and bracelet styles.

City Gypsies Snake Necklace

City Gypsies Snake Bracelet

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Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $70.320 $60.950 -13.32% $82.800 $44.510 $88.9 74.33 $8,765.28Alamos Gold AGI TSX $6.720 $6.150 -8.48% $8.400 $4.820 $32.4 47.31 $586.92Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $35.670 $26.920 -24.53% $51.350 $25.350 $968.0 33.23 $7,480.93Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $10.480 $7.250 -30.82% $20.140 $6.660 $63.5 5.53 $516.53Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $28.020 $36.950 31.87% $54.110 $33.030 $1,989.0 16.72 $32,214.45Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $32.915 $23.200 -29.52% $42.890 $18.755 $204.3 33.62 $5,887.23Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $2.070 $1.640 -20.77% $4.180 $1.250 $52.6 52.33 $1,067.99Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $7.880 $8.440 7.11% $9.010 $5.130 $83.5 70.33 $2,917.32Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $3.680 $4.000 8.70% $6.200 $2.980 $7.3 N/A $2,371.84First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $66.550 $68.500 2.93% $103.930 $53.160 $651.7 6.41 $4,707.66FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $18.560 $15.500 -16.49% $39.770 $13.600 $112.2 16.49 $1,313.0Gammon Gold GAM TSX $9.500 $9.880 4.00% $12.020 $5.800 $65.3 N/A $1,182.59Gold Eagle Mines GEA TSX $10.120 $12.050 19.07% $12.600 $5.480 $0.7 301.25 $1,284.91Gold Fields GFI NYSE $12.900 $9.100 -29.46% $19.915 $8.540 $836.3 N/A $5,942.51Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $45.990 $36.120 -21.46% $52.480 $24.300 $639.5 45.15 $25,745.14Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $6.010 $7.000 16.47% $10.250 $5.100 $242.2 20.59 $2,069.45International Royalty IRC TSX $4.640 $3.350 -27.80% $7.110 $3.270 $11.5 20.94 $262.90Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $11.830 $11.950 1.01% $15.500 $7.800 $203.4 N/A $4,487.41Kinross Gold K TSX $22.830 $17.500 -23.35% $27.160 $12.150 $307.6 33.02 $10,765.19Lundin Mining LUN TSX $5.090 $5.080 -0.20% $13.970 $4.530 $297.2 N/A $1,983.29Newmont Mining NMC TSX $48.400 $47.680 -1.49% $58.440 $43.010 $1,522.0 N/A $2,664.07NovaGold Resources NG TSX $9.720 $6.880 -29.22% $19.990 $5.900 $0.3 N/A $723.67Pan American Silver PAA TSX $33.320 $28.500 -14.47% $43.660 $25.220 $105.3 21.59 $2,302.40Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $8.850 $6.850 -22.60% $9.250 $5.330 $67.0 N/A $1,292.49Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $29.260 $26.970 -7.83% $44.070 $24.770 $1.9 N/A $1,690.96Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $14.900 $12.300 -17.45% $19.300 $10.170 $50.1 27.95 $2,753.45Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $40.020 $44.360 10.84% $52.900 $28.000 $1,907.0 12.02 $19,550.78Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $14.020 $11.530 -17.76% $19.790 $9.890 $340.7 37.19 $8,065.48

Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $27.870 $26.600 -4.56% $38.750 $22.730 N/A N/A $70,337.31BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $71.860 $70.510 -1.88% $95.610 $53.720 $59,473.0 15.2 $118,398.98Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.435 $0.425 -2.30% $1.170 $0.285 N/A N/A $3.80Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.065 $0.055 -15.38% $0.215 $0.035 $1.4 N/A $12.89Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.320 $0.275 -14.06% $0.560 $0.240 N/A N/A $9.44Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $19.830 $20.800 4.89% $43.850 $18.590 $157.4 9.77 $1,276.53Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $4.270 $4.290 0.47% $5.170 $4.000 $0.0 N/A $257.10Moydow Mines Intl Inc. MOY TSX $0.210 $0.195 -7.14% $0.310 $0.135 $0.0 N/A $11.81New Nadina Expls Ltd. NNA TSX-V $0.180 $0.260 44.44% $0.485 $0.110 N/A N/A $7.66Nordic Diamonds Ltd. NDL TSX-V $0.055 $0.050 -9.09% $0.250 $0.045 N/A N/A $2.58Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $401.500 $379.720 -5.42% $558.650 $273.870 N/A N/A $101,425.49Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.310 $0.295 -4.84% $0.950 $0.250 $0.2 N/A $67.03Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.030 $0.035 16.67% $0.440 $0.025 $5.1 N/A $7.35True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.310 $0.280 -9.68% $0.710 $0.250 $13.0 N/A $19.54

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $2.600 $2.350 -9.62% $6.900 $2.180 N/A 2.01 $8.37Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $27.790 $29.920 7.66% $46.250 $22.260 $353.2 14.96 $2,024.59Sears Canada SCC TSX $23.000 $21.990 -4.39% $33.000 $17.510 $1,420.3 7.35 $2,366.58Signet Group SIG NYSE $10.350 $11.520 11.30% $19.660 $8.600 $822.5 N/A $1,964.78Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $39.640 $44.170 11.43% $57.340 $32.840 $668.2 16.61 $5,564.27Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $57.920 $59.070 1.99% $61.000 $42.090 $102,667.0 17.69 $232,955.65Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $19.600 $27.310 39.34% $28.300 $12.480 $476.7 143.74 $965.02

Gold COMX $818.500Silver COMX $13.355Platinum NYME $1,446.500Palladium NYME $303.800


stockindex

Company Name

GEMSTONES

COMMODITIES

JEWELLERS & RETAILERS

StockSymbol

Exchange Price08/29/08

%Change

52-WeekHigh

52-WeekLow

LastQuarterRevenue($Millions)

MarketCap

($Millions)

P/ERatio

Price07/18/08

PRECIOUS METALS

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

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Higher Cash Costs Weaken UpsideBarrick Gold Corp.’s higher cash costguidance will likely dampen upside in thestock, says RBC Capital analyst, Stephen D.Walker. Mr. Walker decreased his price targeton Barrick shares from C$48 to C$45 andmaintained his “sector perform” rating afterincreasing his 2008 average total cash costforecast by C$30. The analyst’s new pricetarget represents a roughly 12% premium onthe stock. Mr. Walker left his 2008 goldproduction forecast for Barrick unchanged at7.5 million ounces, to reflect management’sview that production will trend towards thelower end of the Company’s guidance ofbetween 7.6 million and 8.1 million ounces.

Committee Plans WorkshopThe energy committee of the Ontario MiningAssociation (OMA) is planning to hold aworkshop on conservation and fuel for thegold mining sector and related industries. Onits website, the OMA reveals that September23 and 24 will see Thunder Bay host aconference intended to target people such aselectrical supervisors, energy co-ordinatorsand other mining staff with an interest inenergy management. A tour of NorthAmerican Palladium’s Lac des Iles mine willbe incorporated into the event, which alsoincorporates a golf event and a dinner.The OMA notes that the event follows last

year’s energy management workshop inTimmins, adding that the Ontario miningindustry spends an annual total of some$500 million on energy. “Conserving andeffectively managing this major input cost isa major challenge for all mineral producersin Ontario,” states the body. OMA membercompanies include Kinross Gold Corporationand Kirkland Lake Gold.

Pebble Creek MiningAnnounces Stock OptionsPebble Creek Mining Ltd. announced that ithas granted stock options to directors, officers,employees and consultants for the purchaseof up to a total of 1,890,000 common sharesof the Company (known as the “Options”) atan exercise price of $0.24 per share. TheOptions have a term of five years and aregoverned by the Company’s stock optionplan, whereby options to purchase commonshares may be granted up to a maximum10% of the issued and outstanding commonshares of the Company from time to time.

Firstgold Corp.Announces ProductionFirstgold Corp. announced that it has receivedits Reclamation Permit from the NevadaDepartment of Environmental Protection,which completes its permitting process tofully revise the plan of operations and beginproduction at the Relief Canyon Mine. Thepermit is contingent on the Companyincreasing its reclamation bond to $2.8million bond with the Bureau of LandManagement (BLM). The Company hasdeposited the required amount and isawaiting the BLM’s adjudication of the

bond, which it expects to receive by the endof this month. This permit is the final step ofa permitting process that has taken nearlythree years to complete; this also allows theCompany to begin construction of the newheap leach pad and completes the permittingfor processing of ore at the Relief CanyonMine. Firstgold plans to produce its first goldproduct between November 1 and November15. The Company is optimistic that there willbe no delays due to the adjudication ofFirstgold’s bond or weather related delays,although either could cause an adjustment tothis schedule.

Historic Mines May ReopenA gold mining company has been testinghistorical mines near Silverton, Colorado,with a mind to reopen them. The DurangoHerald said if the Gold King and Mogulmines were reopened by Colorado Goldfields,it could deliver a significant economic boostto the small town of 531 people. Exploratorymining started at the Mogul mine anddrilling started at the Gold King site in July.Between 1895 and 1920, the Gold King

mine produced 345,000 ounces of gold,according to Stephen Guyer, Chief FinancialOfficer of the Company. In discussing thepossibility of reopening the mines instead ofstarting new ones in the area, Guyer said, “it’seconomically feasible and we anticipate thatit’s going to get nothing but moreeconomically attractive over the next sixmonths.” Other mines in the Colorado areathat the exploration Company areinvestigating include the Mayflower mineand the Pride of the West mine.

Freeport-McMoRanCopper & Gold Share RallyShares of Freeport-McMoRan Copper & GoldInc. rallied after copper prices rose earlier inAugust. The Phoenix-based Company’s stockgained $6.39, or 7.5%, to $91.09. Copper forDecember delivery was up as much as 6.8cents to $3.483 a pound on the New YorkMercantile Exchange, before sliding down1.2 cents to $3.407. “These commoditiesare very much currency plays at themoment,” Charles Bradford, an analyst atSoleil-Bradford Research, said in an interview.Bradford rates the stock “Buy,” noting itsaggressive program to expand reserve andmining capacity. The stock is down 17percent in 2008.

Gem Ban CouldHurt Burmese MinersThe International Colored GemstoneAssociation (ICA) is expressing concernthat the recently approved U.S. importban on gemstones from Myanmar may"cause collateral damage," that willultimately hurt the country's already poorindependent miners and traders. The actis designed to diminish a funding sourcefor Myanmar's ruling military junta, whichprofits from state-run gemstone auctionsbut has a long history of human rightsviolations against citizen dissenters,including a violent crackdown againstprotesting Buddhist monks last year.The act bars gemstones mined in

Myanmar, specifically rubies and jadeite,from entering the United States, evenif those stones were processed inthird-party countries such as Thailand."Those who will suffer are the verypeople that the legislation intended toprotect," ICA President, Andrew Cody,said in a statement. "It is a pity that theleadership in national, international andgovernmental agencies, people that arenot really in-the-know as to what takesplace on the ground, failed to consult ourassociation on this issue, and to ourknowledge, no collateral damage studywas undertaken."

The latest newson international mines.

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Peregrine FindsDiamonds at Nunavut SitePeregrine Diamonds has found diamondsat its six-hectare Chidliak explorationproperty in Nunavut. The Company, whichalso has properties in Canada’s NorthwestTerritories and Manitoba, discovered thepresence of possibly diamond-bearingkimberlite at Chidliak in July. Peregrine saidthe discovery is 700 kilometres from thenearest known deposit of kimberlite. Theproperty is located about 150 km northeastof Iqaluit on Baffin Island, and has directaccess to tidewater that connects to theAtlantic Ocean.

Harmony Gold Cutting CostsHarmony Gold Mining Co. Ltd. is benefitingfrom higher gold prices. Going forward,Harmony is focused on reducing its overalloperating costs through its continuousoperations agreement or CONOPS and theshutdown of loss-making shafts. TheCompany is also reducing its headcount tocontrol costs and has a diverse portfolio ofgold development projects spread acrossSouth Africa and Papua New Guinea(PNG). Projects include Elandsrand,Doornkop, Tshepong and Phakisa in SouthAfrica and Hidden Valley in PNG, whichwould deliver up to 1.4 million ounces ofadditional production by 2011. In addition,it has a number of development prospectsthat are being progressed. These includesurface sand dumps, rock dumps and tailingdams, reviewing the potential of uraniumdeposits in South Africa and developing theWafi Golpu gold and copper-gold depositsin PNG.

Drill Results from KalimantanKalimantan Gold has announced new resultsfrom its drilling at the Jelai gold project inIndonesia. The site in East Kalimantan nowhas 56 holes drilled for a total of 4,468metres over the past 12 months. Looking atthe future of the Jelai gold project, Presidentand Chief Executive Officer of the Company,Rahman Connelly, said, “our two scout drillrigs will continue to define the near-surfaceexpressions of the structures, whilst the twolarger capacity drill rigs ... will focus onintersecting the gold bearing veins at depth.”Kalimantan Gold said it hopes to have aninitial inferred resource for the site by theend of this year.

JNR Provides UpdateJNR Resources Inc. has recently provided anupdate on the 2008 summer drilling programsthat have been completed or are still underwayin the Athabasca Basin. Two drills are currentlyoperating on the Company’s 100% ownedWayLake uranium project, located 55 kilometreseast of the Key Lake uranium mine in theAthabasca Basin of northern Saskatchewan.The Way Lake project comprises 17contiguous claims, totalling 71,795 hectares.The program is budgeted at $2.5 million andwill consist of a planned 10,000 metres ofdiamond drilling, as well as additionalgeological mapping and prospecting.

Gold Production Starts on Sewa RiverSierra Gold has started gold production at itsproject on the Sewa River in Sierra Leone. TheCompany will use an eight-inch dredge, whichhas the ability to process 50 tonnes per hourin its operations. Preliminary testing at thesite has already confirmed the presence of gold.Doug Evans, Chief Executive Officer of SierraGold, said “This equipment will allow theCompany to move to another level of goldproduction.” He added that Sierra Gold was“excited” about taking the next step at theSewa River and the fact that the equipmentwill give the Company the opportunity “tobe able to mine throughout the year.” In Junethis year, Sierra Gold announced that theriver dredging equipment would be able toincrease gold production by up to 500%.

New Mining TruckReduces Engine EmissionsCaterpillar has launched a new mining truckthat is said to boost performance andreliability, reduce engine emissions andenhance safety. The 785D target payloadranges from 142 to 155 tons depending onthe specific configuration. According to theCompany, the truck’s engine maintains fuelefficiency, delivers 1,348 net horsepower (1,005kW) and is compliant with US EPA Tier IIemissions standards. The engine is capable ataltitudes up to 14,000 feet (4,267 metres), withno derate.With the change to a highdisplacement engine, engine life is extended.

British Mining CompanyUnder PressureBritish mining company, Vedanta, is underintense pressure over its plans to mine theDongria Kondh tribe’s land in India, as aScottish investment group sells its shares andAmnesty International joins the campaign insupport of the tribe.

Martin Currie, an Edinburgh-basedinvestment management company, has soldits £2.3million stake in Vedanta followingpressure from Survival International. Lastyear, the Norwegian government’s Council ofEthics claimed that Norway sold its shares inVedanta due to an “unacceptable risk ofcomplicity in current and future severeenvironmental damage and systematichuman rights violations.”

miningnews

Ontario Gold Miners SafeMining for gold and other natural resources in Ontario is a safe and productive career,the Ontario Mining Association (OMA) has recently verified. The OMA made thecomments as it reported a steady safety performance for the industry in the Canadianprovince during the first half of 2008, with the period seeing a lost time injury rate of 0.6per 200,000 hours worked — matching the first six months of 2007. Noting that the ratestood at 4.7 in 1985, the association gives credit for the improvement in performanceover the past 23 years to each individual working in the mining sector and their personaldiligence. Credit was also given to a number of initiatives bolstering these individualefforts, such as the OMA's Internal Responsible System audits, which began in 2000. [CJ]

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For many Canadian consumers, the desire to purchase goods thatoriginate from their homeland is a strong one. This holds true forthose wishing to purchase a diamond, which explains why

Canadian diamonds have become a hot commodity over the past fewyears. With this increasing demand comes its share of controversy. In thiscase, the uncertainty stems from the final word on what actually makes aCanadian diamond Canadian.

For the most part, the misunderstanding has come from the GovernmentCertified Canadian Diamond™ certification. Phyllis Richard, Chair forthe Canadian Diamond Code Committee points out, “This is theNorthwest Territories certification. Not Canada’s. It should not inferthat it’s the federal Canadian government.” Furthering the uncertainty aresome of the claims made by the Northwest Territories body, which statethat a true Canadian diamond is mined, cut and polished here in ourhome and Native land. Ms. Richard says that, as decried by theCanadian federal government, a Canadian diamond is defined as onemined in Canada, and cut and polished either here or abroad.

Digging for the TruthAccording to Mel Moss, President of Regal Imports Ltd., the NorthwestTerritory government has taken out a trademark on the term “CanadianGovernment Certified Diamonds,” so that others are barred from using it.


What makes a diamond truly Canadian?

The question has generated quite a bit of controversy

and confusion amongst retailers and consumers alike.

Fortunately, there is a clear “cut” answer.

BY BRYAN SOROKA

Completely Certifiable

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miningfeature


However, what really made the industry “go nuts,” he states, iswhen the “NWT government didn’t like the definition that theCompetition Bureau came up with. And to override it, theytook out the trademark on the term ‘Canadian Diamond’ sonobody could use it without their permission.”

Mr.Moss is not shy in pointing out that these two trademarksare the primary culprits for all the unrest, as is the idea oftacking on the ‘cut and polished’ message to the definition.“In trade and consumer, it can be misunderstood,” he states.“The NWT government was fighting for a Canadian diamondto be mined, cut and polished in Canada to be consideredCanadian.”Another fact Mr.Moss touches upon is what theseguarantees actually mean. “Certificates usually guarantee cutand clarity,” he explains, “so it can be misunderstood that thiscertificate guarantees this as well as the diamond’s origin.”

Mr.Moss is an industry stakeholder who firmly agrees with theassessment of the Competition Bureau (an independentCanadian agency that protects and promotes competitive mar-kets and enables informed consumer choice). Another keyindustrymember,GeorgeMimar,Co-Owner ofMDL Diamonds,is another. “When the [NWT government] say ‘governmentcertified’, jewellers automatically think it’s the Canadiangovernmentwhen itmay be theNorthwest Territories,”he states.

The CodeIn order to give retailers and consumers a clear understandingof what makes a diamond Canadian, The Voluntary Code ofConduct for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims

(also known as "the Code") was born.“The Code authenticatesCanadian diamond claims,”Ms. Richard explains, “by trackingdiamonds from the retailer all the way back to the mine.”

The Code originated from the Competition Bureau'sEnforcement Policy on the Marketing of Canadian Diamonds.This policy detailed when diamonds can be represented as"Canadian" without violating the false or misleading claimsprovisions of the Competition Act (a provision for the generalregulation of trade and commerce in respect of conspiracies,trade practices and mergers affecting competition).

Evolving from the efforts of industry groups, including thediamond mining sector, cutters and polishers, retailers, theCanadian Jewellers Association and Jewellers Vigilance Canada,along with several government stakeholders, The Codeestablishes a minimum standard required to validate aCanadian diamond claim based on a paper trail and a chain ofwarranties. After a considerable amount of research andstudy, this was deemed to be the most suitable system tosubstantiate claims on the origin of Canadian diamonds.

Grade “Eh” MarketingSo, another question is raised regarding the marketing andclaims that can be made. In 2000, the Canadian CompetitionBureau stepped in to cement the rules for the marketingof Canadian diamonds. The goal was to establish whenclaims regarding the origin of diamonds raised issues under thefalse or misleading representations and deceptive marketingpractices provisions of the Act.

“ The Code authenticates Canadian diamond claims ...

by tracking diamonds from the retailer all the way

back to the mine.”

� PAGE 40...................................


miningfeature


The Whole TruthWhile the Canadian diamond industry has been forced toendure this situation, it is improving as both retailers andconsumers are beginning to understand the differencebetween the (NWT) Government Certified CanadianDiamond™ program and the actual criteria for definingwhat makes a diamond Canadian. It really is as simple asknowing that a Canadian diamond is mined right here.Whether or not it is also cut and polished in Canadadoes not alter the definition. “Australian opals havebeen coming out of Australia for years but cut inVancouver,” Mr. Moss says. “Does that mean those opalsaren’t [officially] Australian?”

Further elaborating on the cut and polish issue, Mr. Mimarsays that many people are under the impression that mineowners and producers pull diamonds from out of theground, run it to the cutting facility in Yellowknife and cut itright there. “It’s a lot more complicated than that,” he adds.“And it’s our job to educate our clients on this and all theother issues by saying, ‘if this is what you’ve heard, here’swhat the truth is.’”

Looking past the confusion regarding certification issues, itis important for jewellers and manufacturers to understandthat for many consumers, Canadian diamonds represent anethical and patriotic purchase decision. This is in line withour country’s and the media’s growing interest and coveragein moral codes and fair practice. In turn, providingconsumers with the opportunity to buy conflict-free,Canadian produced diamonds is a surefire means in whichto pay homage to these sensibilities, all the while supplyingthem with some of the highest quality diamonds foundanywhere in the world.

The Competition Bureau’s Rules for the Marketingof Canadian Diamonds

This interpretation of the Competition Act outlines theapproach that the Commissioner of Competition takes indetermining when claims relating to the origin of diamondswould raise issues under the false/misleading representationsand deceptive marketing practices provisions of the Act.However, these guidelines are not law — they reflect theCommissioner's interpretation of the law and how the Actwill be applied on a consistent basis by Competition Bureaustaff. The general principles of the Act are as follows:

� The false or misleading representations and deceptivemarketing practices provisions of the Act prohibit themaking of a materially false or misleading representationto the public for the purpose of promoting a product orbusiness interest. These provisions apply to thepromotion of diamonds.

� In determining whether a representation is false ormisleading, the courts will consider the generalimpression being conveyed to ordinary members of thetarget audience by the representation in question, aswell as its literal meaning.

� A representation in one medium (e.g. newspaperadvertisement) must be accurate and not misleadingon its face. The representation should not rely uponadditional information located in another medium toclarify its meaning.

� Use clear and precise language to reduce the risk ofmisleading a potential purchaser. [CJ]


For details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page104.

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Alliance Links Huge DiamondDatabase to Web Building ProgramsLeading diamond software solutions provider,eDiamondselect, has taken its reputation to the next levelthrough its new partnership with Avalon Solution.Avalon Solution is a comprehensive B2C web service thathelps retail jewellers establish custom branded websites. As aresult of the partnership, all of eDiamondselect’s current andfuture customers will have special access to Avalon Solution’sweb building program. Meanwhile, Avalon Solution willpromote eDiamondselect’s unique program and extensiveloose diamond inventory to its own retail customers.

The innovative, easy-to-use system by eDiamondselect is idealfor those who want to cut administrative costs and accuratelytrack sales, as itsWebEmbed feature can be integrated into astore’s website, allowing customers to remotely search thestore’s and suppliers’ inventories. Also, its software applicationcan be installed on a touch-screen terminal, kiosk or ajeweller’s own PC located at the front of the store, which givesretail customers immediate visual access to a real-timeselection of the store’s available loose diamond inventory.

Originally introduced in 2005 as an in-store kiosk solutionto the diamond industry, eDiamondselect and its team havespent years developing this retail solutions software, whichhas 132 patent pending claims. As a result, customers are nolonger forced to travel from retailer to retailer to find thestone they’re looking for, or resort to the risky task of buyinga diamond sight-unseen on the web.

Scale Developed to Weigh Gold AtomsScientists in the U.S. have claimed to have developed ananoelectromechanical scale system, which is so sensitive itcan measure – at room temperature – the mass of a singleatom of gold.

Physicist Alex Zettl holds a joint appointment at theEnergy Department’s Berkeley Lab and the University ofCalifornia-Berkeley and led the research with researchersKenneth Jensen and Kwanpyo Kim. The carbon nanotubemass sensor was able to weigh separate gold atoms and alsomeasure objects which were two-fifths the size of a goldatom in just over one second. He said this has previouslybeen difficult to achieve even at cryogenic temperatures.

New technology in the jewellery industry.

eDiamondselect touch-screen terminal

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Ultra Tester from Sy KesslerThe North American headquarters for Renata Batteries of ItingenSwitzerland, Sy Kessler Sales Inc. is currently featuring theGemOro UltraTester, a simultaneous diamond and moissanite testerthat identifies, detects and separates diamonds from CZ and moissanite.The tester comes with many features, including an unprecedentedlifetime limited warranty, bright white LED illuminator light, fastwarm-up time, durable ULTRA probe tip, as well as an ULTRAgrip andrubberized paint finish. This made-in-the-USA UltraTester isergonomically designed, helps users save energy with a battery-savingauto sleep mode function and a LED bar graph/beep tone that providesaudible and visual diamond, moissanite and white sapphire indication.The UltraTester comes in an embossed black leatherette storage case,with an outer box cover and a leatherette pouch for storage.

Developed by engineers at GemOro Superior Instruments, the tester’sstate-of-the-art digital electronics and proprietary Probe Tip SensitivitySheath (PTSES) makes this tester incredibly accurate and reliable,providing you with serious protection against fraud. [CJ]

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ccording to Shele Letwin, sales rep trainer and designer forGV Design Canada, there are three steps to sellingcustomized jewellery: a) making up a pencil sketch; b)

constructing a waxmodel; and c) presenting the actualmodel to thecustomer. Though when the last step approaches, there’s no sigh ofrelief just yet; you still haven’t made a solid sale since this is the veryfirst time the customer will view his or her creation in full form.Nevertheless, GV Design Canada, the authorized dealer forGemvision Corporation, wants to help retailers bring excitement tocustomized pieces sooner than later with the Matrix Version 6, thelatest version of Gemvision’s innovative jewellery CAD (ComputerAided Design) software.

The “Matrix”

The latest Matrix software allows you to create virtual jewellerydesigns, all the while generating a rendered preview image; then itoutputs your design to any CAM device, which creates wax modelsready for casting. “It’s a good all-purpose tool for whatever designthe CAD operator wants to create,” comments Letwin, adding thatthis new technologywas recently rated themost used amongst CADand CAM operators, which was verified by the MJSA TechnologySurvey. Jeff High, president and founder of Gemvision, also states,“designing a piece of jewellery takes you down many design paths.Ideally, you want to be able to explore all of those ideas and see youroptions in real time as you design while getting all the subtle detailsjust right. Matrix 6 makes that a reality and becomes an interactivepart of your creative thought as a designer.” Not to mention, theMatrix is user-friendly for jewellery retailers, with Letwin notingthat, “70% of our customers are retailers that want to produce thewax themselves. The program is easy enough so that anyonewithout jewellery experience can make [jewellery].”

BY NIKKI YEH

BuildingConfidenceThe latest tech allows retailers to intertwine

advanced technology with customer service.

1. Wax models2. Ring models


2

1

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Tech FYIOn a side note, GV Design Canada is the authorizeddealer of envisionTEC’s Perfactory Desktop System, whichsupports rapid prototyping and manufacturing. Letwinverifies that the system “produces wax out of resin,”creating three-dimensional resin models through a digitallight processing system. Quite simply, “whatever you see,you can print it,” claims Letwin. Utilizing a built-in ethernetinterface, the Perfactory Desktop System can connectdirectly to a PC workstation or be integrated into a networkwith an embedded PC.

So, what makes the Matrix 6 so “easy” for retailers? Well, you bethe judge: it features history-enabled parts and styles, astreamlined interface and a host of new tools that follow the latestdesign trends. On top of those features, it includes an exclusiveversion of a V-Ray rendering engine into the software, resultingin photo-realistic renders. In fact, according to Letwin, theMatrix6 has been in demand by independent jewellery retailers toaccommodate fast-paced decision-making. “When you put CADinto your company, it changes everything,” says Letwin. “You hateto have a customer come in and say ‘I like this design’ and thenhave the store experience communication problems.” In otherwords, not only does the Matrix 6 give you more chances ofnailing your custom jewellery sales, it also decreasesapprehension, allowing your customers to see their prized piecesbefore they even exist. “The customer has the confidence, whichis not comparable to pencil sketches. Now the joy is in thebeginning. It’s a different type of selling and eliminatesmiscommunication,” Letwin points out.

The Next Step

To bring jewellery retailers to another sales level, GV DesignCanada is also featuring Gemvision’s latest milling machine, theRevo540C Dual Spindle Mill, which Letwin describes as being,“pretty much hit-and-go and having the machine carve[jewellery] out.” This next-generation mill integrates softwaresolutions with hardware updates, and with dual-spindletechnology, the Revo540C brings quite a presence into any store.“Having a machine on the sales floor behind glass is a trafficstopper, creating a lot of interest in custom work,” says Letwin.So, here’s how the newest “C” mill model works: two high-speedspindles approach the model from two directions.The configuration then allows almost any model to be machinedwithout changing any fixtures. In other words, this dual-spindletechnology produces quality models in one single operation,which eliminates changing any fixtures.

Obviously, fixtures are key to milling good quality models,especially when it comes with the least amount of set-up time.As a result, the Revo540C takes this concept to a whole new level;in fact, nearly every set-up process is designed to be performedwithout tools, including five hand-tightened fixtures mounted tothe A axis.

For Your Consideration…

In the jewellery industry, there’s no doubt that “custom design isreally important,” claims Letwin. “Trends are pushing jewellersand retailers want to stay ahead of the competition.” As such,consider the latest technology for your store, which, in the end,could affect your staff, operations and, best of all, yourconsumers’ shopping habits. [CJ]

3-4. envision models5. envision in action


techfeature

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Diamondsmay be a“girl’s best friend,” though bench jewellersfrequently find themselves handling other coloured stonessuch as rubies and sapphires. When working with these

precious gems, it is imperative to keep in mind that they aretypically softer and less durable than diamonds. This can have atremendous impact on a bench jeweller’s work, especially whenworking on a setting specifically designed for a diamond.

With all this to consider, what should you keep in mind whenworking with coloured gemstones? First, think about thecustomer. Be honest with him or her when discussing the creationof a customized piece, as he or she may not understand why somestones are more fragile than others. A knowledgeable benchjeweller and salesperson should be able to lean customers towardsdesigns and stones that will last for a long time, yet can be easilyrepaired if required.

However, if your customer is adamant about a “fragile” design,consider working with him or her one-on-one on designing a piecethat will, in the end, protect the stone. (Don’t forget to discuss whythe piece needs to be reworked for the protection of the stone.)

BY NIKKI YEH

Handle withCareWhy it’s so important to understand the do’s and don’ts

of handling specialty gemstones.

“A knowledgeable bench jeweller and

salesperson should be able to lean

customers towards designs and stones

that will last for a long time, yet can be

easily repaired if required.”


046-047.CJ_Bench.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:18 AM

Of course, there are those customers who insist on a customizeddesign, such as a channel-set emerald ring. In this case, youcan sell this creation to your customer, as long as you providethem with a clear and honest warning.So, for example, if the customer ispurchasing a tanzanite, make sure topoint out that this stone can developcleavages from the simplest shocks.

For Your Consideration

There aremany actions for you to considerwhen working with coloured gemstones,which includes:

� Test pumice wheels on a piece of glassbefore using any coloured gemstoneson them. If you find the wheels arenot scraping off glass, they should notscratch the majority of faceted stones.

� Pickle, an acid bath used to cleanpieces after soldering, can destroymany coloured stones, includingturquoise and pearls. If you areunsure whether or not a stone isstrong enough for acids, do not insertit in the pickle. The same goes for anysteam cleaners.

� When setting soft, coloured stones (such as tanzanite), coatthem with nail polish. This will protect against abrasiveactions. After the setting is complete, immerse the stone inacetone to remove the polish. However, do your research firstto find out which stones are compatible with acetone.

Overall, keep in mind that gemstones should be treateddifferently. For example, hematite is resident to suddentemperature changes, though a steamer should be avoided.And while idocrase is tough, it is known to be susceptible toscratches with steel-stone setting tools. Knowing how to handlespecific gemstones not only increases your knowledge on thebench, but also enhances customer service. [CJ]

Bench Seminars by Platinum Guild Internationaland Bench Media

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Whether you are developing your craft or you are a seasonedbench veteran who wants to refresh your skills, benchseminars can help jump-start your creativity and help motivateyou to accomplish your goals. These seminars are designedto inform, instruct and inspire bench jewellers to achievetheir goals by illustrating and teaching a myriad of advancedbench techniques. Rather than simply learning from onespeaker, you will experience one of the first dual instructedseminars in the industry.


benchfeature

Working with coloured stones requires a gentle “touch.”

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Simon Ghanimian, who is better knownas Simon G., did not wake up onemorning and say to himself, ‘I want to be

a jewellery designer.’ Rather, after leaving hishomeland of Beirut in 1976 for New YorkCity at the ripe age of 19, he had aspirationsof becoming a civil engineer. Unfortunately,the tuition proved too costly and upon thesuggestions of some relatives, he began toinvestigate the possibility of earning hisliving in the jewellery business.

Four years later, the aspiring designer met hiswife Silvia and the following year opened thedoors of Simon G. Jewelry. Today, Simon G. is60 members strong, and the Glendale,California business boasts designers fromJapan, Lebanon and Italy. While much haschanged since those earlier days, the oneconstant has been a commitment to uniqueand functional jewellery. “It’s simplicity ofdesign and it’s identity,” Simon explains,“that is unique and wearable everyday.”Which explains why Simon G. customers fallin love with their pieces over and over again.

When it comes to designs

that are every bit as fashionable

as they are unique and

pragmatic, few can compare

to Simon G. Jewelry.

BY BRYAN SOROKA

Original G.

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designerprofile


An Inspiring ProcessWhen asked where he gets his inspiration for his one-of-a-kinddesigns, Simon is quick to point out a multitude of sources.“I get it from the customers … and from nature,” he details.“I get inspired from antique areas as well, different designs of abuilding, styles of marble, old places and countries.” Ideas arespurred by a host of other sources, and once Simon and hisdesigners have planted the seeds for a new, original piece, theysit down and hash out the details.“First we have a direction likea certain type of ring,” Simon declares. “Then, we make roughsketches and later we sit down and start improving those ideas.”

Once the Simon G. design team has arrived at a “tight” sketch,the actual physical labour begins. Even though Simon G.upholds many of the traditional practices when crafting itsjewellery, team members are certainly not loath to injectevolving technology into the mix. “We draw on a CAD/CAM,”he says. “I still feel like I’m old school. In the old days we usedtomake it fromwax. From scratch.”Now, SimonG.mixes CADwith what he refers to as a “hand feeling.” The process goes likethis: first, final sketches are rendered via CAD, then wax andfinally cast in silver. Simon explains that working with silver isa must for him, as machines do not give him that feeling orhuman touch. “A feeling translates to the piece,” he says.

Setting the TrendLike most designers, Simon keeps a close watch over industrytrends. However, it is Simon G.’s customers – both retailersand consumers – that drive the direction of his designs.“I look for what a customer wants,” Simon remarks.“When I’m visiting customers, I get a feel for what they like.”Simon is quick to point out that preferences for stylesare changing all the time, which is why he makes sure tointroduce fresh new designs on a regular basis. “I visit Italyand France and really like their [designers’] feel and touch.”

Simon may be an admirer of these European-inspiredcreations, however, he says these same pieces do not work forCanada and the U.S. “Taste is different. In Europe people arevery gentle with their jewellery,” Simon elaborates. “If they’redoing the dishes, they remove it. In North America, they doanything with it.”

In Simon’s opinion, Canada and the U.S. have much incommon when it comes to their taste in jewellery. “I thinkthe U.S. and Canada … have such a close society that anypieces we like here, they like there,” he notes, “One thingabout Canada … it’s a great market. Before we thoughtCanadian buyers only like small pieces, but now we’re sellingexpensive pieces … $9,000 … $10,000. It’s great.”

“... it is Simon G.’s customers — both

retailers and consumers — that drive the

direction of his designs.”

Pendant in rose, white andyellow gold, with vivid pear-shapedcanary yellow diamonds and brightwhite diamonds.

Ring in rose, whiteand yellow gold withcanary and whitediamonds.



Simon G. Jewelry is considered to be a trendsetter by many,especially when it comes to its Pavé Set creations. “We’re amaster of this setting,” Simon points out. “And it’s doing betterand better every year.” There is no doubt that Pavé Setjewellery has become fashionable, as Simon explains, “Peoplelike to focus on the centre diamonds, but like to have thesetting dressed with other diamonds.”

The Right StuffOne of the most popular lines in Simon G.’s portfolio is itsbridal ring collection, along with its lineup of exquisitelydetailed fashion jewellery. Price points range from$1,000-4,000 on the retail side and this year, Simon G. isexcited to launch a new, higher-end collection that goes from$15,000-50,000.When it comes to price, though, Simon has afinite strategy that retailers would be wise to take note of.“When we manufacture a piece, we want the woman to beable to buy it alone, which is why we try to hit $5,000.”Simon explains that selling a piece is made much easier whena woman is shopping by herself. “We’ve done a lot of focusgroups where we asked women and found out that $5,000 isthe target price for self purchasers. They said when it’s overthat, they have to ask their husbands.” Simon goes on to saythat woman tend to spend much more easily than their malecounterparts. “They’ve got to have it. That’s their mentality,”he states. “They fall in love with it.”

Currently, the Simon G. design team is mainly focusing onengagement and bridal rings. “More everyday pieces,” Simonsays. “Clean and simple that looks different than anyoneelse’s.” As far as the materials that go into these pieces, he saysthat he is a firm believer in using different alloys. “In white[gold], I always try to mix a little yellow or pink. You put asmall accent in there and the piece looks so very different.”Simon adds that diamonds are still the dominant preciousstone, though he is a fan of some semi-precious varietiesincluding aquamarine and tourmaline. “Coloured stonesare my passion,” he adds. “I love rubies and sapphires.”

Not to mention, Simon has a passion for yellow and pinkdiamonds, which he introduced into the marketplace in1985. He says there was quite a bit of resistance in thebeginning, but today the stones are very popular.

Designing to the Demographic“The majority of my customers are [women] between 24 and45,” Simon explains. “They’re young … they want somethingdifferent. They want to look good and enjoy life.” Simon saysthat consumers are looking for delicacy in design, along withan overall look that is clean and simple. “The new generationis surprising,” he continues. “They know a lot aboutjewellery … they go on the Internet and they learn a lot andlove details.” Like most consumer groups, those that fall intothe jewellery sect are becoming more and more knowledge-able. In Simon’s view, the new generations love the detailing,which is why all Simon G. designs pay explicit attention toevery nuance. “Inside of the ring, I try to make it so shiny,”Simon states. “If the hidden places [of the piece] look likethat, what do you expect from the rest of the ring?” Price, ofcourse, is still a mitigating factor when it comes to purchasedecisions, and Simon is well in tune with this fact.“They might like something, but if it’s out of their budget,you don’t make the sale” he says. “But we know our customers,what they can afford. We know what their budget is.”

By commingling unique pieces with a modern sensibility andpractical structure, Simon G. Jewelry has earned its reputationas one of the leading designers in the industry. Add a solidrelationship with customers and an understanding of theimportance jewellery plays in the North American lifestyle,and the artisan has built a business that continues to thrive inall economic climes. “[Jewellery] makes them feel good,”Simon concludes. “My philosophy is that as long as there arewomen, the jewellery business will always be there.” [CJ]

Gold pendant combinedwith brilliant white diamondsand centre stone.

Rich gold combinedwith bright diamondsand centre stone.

designerprofile


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All that

is not Gold


here is no doubt that we would all like to know what isgoing to happen to the price of things in the near todistant future. In our industry right now, the price ofprecious metals must be driving everyone mad, if we

are not already there. There have been fluctuations of ahundred dollars an ounce for certain metals in a single day inthe past six months.

Volatility is a word that the economists like to use. We hearthe word “nuts” more often than “volatile” in the corridorsand elevators of the jewellery industry. How do you carry aninventory of gold or platinum when a month can bring asmuch as 25% variability in price? If the swing is down, thatlowers the value of your held inventory, because youinevitably have to keep in line with current pricing to remaincompetitive. If the price goes up, you can sell with modestpricing or make up for the losses you might make during thenext price downturn.

We will focus on platinum in this column. Platinum is abrilliant white metal that is hard, durable, heavy andworks very well with diamonds. Platinum is not that oldas a jewellery metal. Before the mid-19th century, its usewas almost unknown, with the exception that there havebeen some Pre-Columbian platinum items discovered.With the advent of fabulous Art Deco design, with its sharpgeometry and clean lines, there was a desire for a bright whitemetal. Platinum provided a permanently bright white surface,and this was ideal for the jewellery of the Art Deco designers.

Platinum: Where and WhyThere is some wonderful platinum jewellery from France.This country was not the exclusive user of platinum, thoughsome of the best platinum work certainly originated there inthe 1920’s and 1930’s. Art Deco brooches, bracelets and dressclips were produced there by the best French workshops. Theplatinum was set with diamonds, and the bright white metalwas a complement to the increased sparkle from the newlyinvented brilliant cut for diamonds.

In the United States in the 1930’s, bracelets, rings and broochesmade of gold with thin platinum tops were quite common.The platinum tops were often bead set with diamonds, andthe platinum retained its bright white colour.Often,metal qualitystamps do not indicate the platinum component of these items.

The late 19th century saw the discovery of platinum in SouthernAfrica and Russia. Platinum was extracted as a by-product ofmining other metals. This meant that platinum was moreavailable for use in jewellery.

Themain reason for the sudden use of platinum in jewellery wasthe discovery of efficient methods for melting the metal. Themelting point of platinum is 1773.5 degrees Celsius. This veryhigh temperature requires heat that is beyond a conventionaljeweller’s oxygen and propane or natural gas torch. The melting,fusing and soldering of platinum is conventionally carried outusing oxygen and acetylene. Now many workshops use verycostly laser welders for a lot of platinum work.

If you are selling, preparing estimates for custom work or appraising, you must consider

the current price of platinum. This is not a constant right now, so keep up with and remain

aware of all the factors in the cost and value of this precious metal.

BY DUNCAN PARKER

052-053.CJ_FaceValue.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:25 AM


facevalue

Currently, in addition to the traditional styles of engagementjewellery, there are some exceptional items made in platinum.Tension set rings aremostlymade in platinum, and are a strikingcombination of metal and gem. These have to be hand forged toharden the metal so that the ring will hold the gem securely,and really must be made by an expert.

Leave it to the ExpertsThere are many workshops that will work with platinum, butfar fewer that can do it well. The melting point of gold isapproximately half of that for platinum, so it is easy to seethat there might be a temptation to accept a platinum repairjob, but use white gold for the work. There is a major colourdifference between platinum and white gold. Improperlydone repair or solder work is cheaper and certainly looks it.Platinum work is best done by specialists who have the skillsand equipment to work with it. Additionally, if you wanthandmade platinum jewellery, it really needs to be crafted bya specialist.

There are, however, some very well-made platinum mountsand semi-mounts that do not require soldering. These canthen be set without the requirement for the high temperaturesolder work used in building platinum items. These mountsfill a need, meet a price point and are quite popular.

Platinum is not, however, simply an alternative for gold.Platinum is a top choice among those getting engaged,though there is a very large price difference between a goldring and an identical ring in platinum. There are severalreasons for the difference:

Cost of the metal: Pure platinum is nearly double theprice of gold per ounce. Platinum’s standard alloy is 95%platinum, with only 5% other metals, while in Canada,gold can legally be alloyed to as low as 9-karat (37.5%

gold with other metals), but even in its standard high karat is18-karat (75% gold).Thismeans that a 10-gram ring of 18-karatgold would have 7.5 grams of pure gold, for $198.95 in gold(based on $825.00 per ounce). A platinum ring of the sameweight would have 9.5 grams of pure platinum, for $458.20 inplatinum (based on $1,500.00 per ounce).

Density of the metal: Platinum is the densest ofthe precious metals. 18-karat yellow gold has anaverage relative density of 15.5, and pure platinumhasa relative density of 21.4. This means that pure

platinum can be as much as 38% heavier than an item of thesame size in 18-karat yellow gold.

If you add the price differential in the raw metals, variationdue to the very high purity alloy in platinum, one third moreweight in platinum over gold items of the same dimensions,and the cost of a specialist platinum workshop, it is not hardto understand why jewellery built from platinum is in a specialplace as a jewellery metal.

If you are an appraiser of platinumyou should give considerationto design, originality, finish, labour and brand, in additionto the pure price factors for the metal. Also, consider thatthere are some items made with platinum and gold, such asgold rings with platinum claw settings. There is a differencein the appearance of the metal, and it is good to becomefamiliar with the appearance of platinum to help detectplatinum components that are not stamped “Plat,”“Platinum” or “Pt950” (the stamp conventionally used in theUnited States).

Platinum used in Canada is generally 95% platinum.However, in other countries, different purities are used. Forexample, in Japan, 90% is used (stamped “900”), and inHong Kong sometimes “18-karat platinum” is used and isusually stamped “750.” An item stamped “750” could bemistaken for “750” or 18-karat gold if you do not recognizethe difference in appearance or if you do not test the metal.The reason for lower purities (“karat platinum”) being usedis the high cost of platinum, combined with a continueddemand for the metal.

With wild fluctuations in metal prices, it is difficult to keep afix on the price of platinum, and you can see that there aremany factors to be considered in arriving at cost or value forthis bright white metal. You really do have to follow the dailyprice fix for platinum as with all the precious metals.

Also keep in mind that the factors we have explored heredo not even begin to discuss additional dynamics such asdesign and labour in hand-making platinum jewellery. Youcan look forward to learning more about these details in anupcoming column. [CJ]

“Platinum is a top choice among those

getting engaged, though there is a very

large price difference between a gold

ring and an identical ring in platinum.”

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Colin Ferguson found his way into collecting and dealingcoloured gems for the very same reason as many others.“Like a lot of people in the industry, when white stones gotcommoditized,” the President of Rare & Precious Gems

explains. Since becoming brokers, the Company has become thelargest dealer of natural, fancy coloured diamonds in Canada, a trendthat Mr. Ferguson plans to continue. “We’re becoming one of thebiggest in the world… with direct access to Argyle, we can grow thebusiness in ways we couldn’t imagine.”

“I started off in retail with Spence Diamonds,” Mr. Ferguson detailswhen broaching his foray into the diamond trade. After moving into amanagement role to help Spence open stores, Mr. Ferguson became anagent for Eddy Gryspeerdt, a former DeBeers diamond sight dealer.“He [Mr. Gryspeerdt] taught me how to look at diamonds,” Mr.Ferguson notes. With that knowledge in place, he packed a briefcasefull of diamonds and travelled across North America. Not long after,Mr. Ferguson broke out on his own and started wholesaling to thetrade, and his company began expanding at a rapid pace. “It just grewand grew and grew,” he says, until Rare & Precious Gems became oneof the top businesses in the industry.

BY BRYAN SOROKA

Going from Emotional to ProfitableNatural, fancy coloured diamonds are gaining in popularity and for more than their aesthetic

appeal. These striking precious gems are turning an emotional investment into a financial one,

and Rare & Precious Gems is leading the charge.


Pink RD Ring

Colin Ferguson

056-058.CJ_CompanyProfile.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 3:54 PM

Some 18 years ago, Rare & Precious Gems specialized in whitediamonds. This focus changed two years ago to natural coloureddiamonds when they were still quite obscure. Much has changed sincethen as Mr. Ferguson says, “Today, it’s [coloured diamonds] the fastestgrowing part of the industry. Maybe even in history.” And Rare &Precious Gems is ideally positioned to help retailers take full advantageof these opportunities as “We have everything from the 20 carat pinkdiamond down to the one point Champagne. We have it all,” Mr.Ferguson says, and it is not an understatement, as Rare & PreciousGems’ lines cover the complete spectrum with Pink, Blue, Champagne,Orange, Red, Purple, Green, Yellow and Black diamonds.

“This market is growing by 35-40% per year,”Mr. Ferguson is quick tomention. “The amazing thing is people have never seen these [coloureddiamonds] before… people in the industry. What people want issomething unique and different. That’s what these diamonds are.”While white diamonds are still the predominant “colour” in theindustry, Mr. Ferguson firmly believes that this variety has becomecommoditized and will continue along this trend. “For five years I wasin denial with what happened with white diamonds,” he says. “I keptsaying they’d come back as a luxury market. But they aren’t.”

A Rare Breed

Today, Rare & Precious Gems is a mine-to-market broker of diamondsand rare gems. Servicing wholesalers and the international jewellerytrade, luxury retailers and jewellery designers, the Company pridesitself on offering the highest quality natural and untreated coloureddiamonds and precious gems. Another important detail to note is thatall are deemed conflict-free under the Kimberly Process, as well ascertified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Future plans include moving into the Asian market, and Mr. Fergusonwill be travelling to Shanghai and Hong Kong to meet with diamonddistributors. Rare & Precious Gems is staffed by a group ofknowledgeable industry professionals, including Coloured DiamondConsultants Kim Helman, Melanie Mokhtari and Nicole Law, all ofwhom are GIA trained.

Rare & Precious Gems is known best for its collection of coloureddiamonds (all stones carry GIA certification), which are mined fromAustralia’s Argyle Mine, the world’s largest supplier of pink diamonds(it accounts for approximately one-quarter of the world's naturaldiamond production). Pink diamonds are the most sought after stone,and the mine also produces an array of champagne and cognacdiamonds.

Argyle began mining its main ore body in 1985, and has since producedover 600 million carats of diamonds. The life of the open pit operationpresently extends to 2008. The AK1 pipe continues at depth, and forthis reason an underground mine is being developed. This will extendthe life of the mine to approximately 2018.

“This market is growing

by 35-40% per year…

he amazing thing is people

have never seen these

[coloured diamonds]

before… people in the

industry. What people want

is something unique and

different. That’s what these

diamonds are.”


companyprofile


Last year, Argyle retained its finest pink diamonds (1% of its production)for its annual Pink Tender. The private, invitation-only tender was open to100 top international diamond brokers, jewellers and luxury retailers,Rare & Precious Gems being one of them. “It’s the most prestigiousinvitation in the industry,” Mr. Ferguson says without a doubt. “Theyallow 100 people to view the collection. Of those, 17 were successful atgetting one stone.”Which gives you some insight as to how significant Mr.Ferguson’s purchase of seven diamonds truly is.

From Emotional to Financial

While coloured diamonds are certainly the rarest and most expensive ofthe breed, Mr. Ferguson points out another important factor that alljewellery retailers will be glad to learn. “Jewellers get to make margins onthese coloured diamonds,” he states. To help retailers capitalize on theprofits coloured stones represent, Mr. Ferguson launchedpinkluxury.com, a website intended to, “provide an introductory level linefor jewellers,” he clarifies. Mr. Ferguson goes on to say that many jewellershave been struggling with diversification, and coloured diamonds givethem a, “tremendous edge. The coloured diamond world is growing at analarming rate.” A perfect example of this growth is the recent sale of a 2.2carat intense pink stone made by Rare & Precious Gems. “We sold it for$860,000USD [wholesale],” Mr. Ferguson points out. Other colouredstones are also going up in value at a fast rate. “We also sold a two caratchampagne [diamond] that sold for $6,000USD.”

“The jewellers need to get knowledgeable and get them [coloureddiamonds] into their inventory,”Mr. Ferguson urges. “This is the future ofthe industry.” Rare & Precious Gems plans to educate retailers on themany virtues of these rare stones by sending members of Argyle out toteach retailers how to sell. In-store information will also play a role in theeducation process, which will include the Company’s joint venture withRio Tinto in the form of their Champagne Campaign. “We’ll go right intothe stores and teach them,” Mr. Ferguson says. Rare & Precious gems willalso be launching a nationwide support program to get the word out onthese rarest of gems. “We intend to make natural coloured stones the mostsought after gems in the world with Argyle and Rio Tinto,” he points out.

Making Diamonds Profitable

Mr. Ferguson is excited to say that coloured diamonds presentCanadian jewellery retailers with the opportunity to make diamondsprofitable again. “It’s exciting to be in the coloured jewel business –we’re helping jewellers make money,” he exclaims. And if these retailers,along with other industry members, are under the impression thatcoloured diamonds are simply another fad, Mr. Ferguson states, “Thinkagain. The white diamond industry is becoming too affordable.” Hemay be right, as new sales channels, most notably online, have saturatedthe white diamond market even further. Fortunately, natural fancycoloured diamonds represent not only an emotional investment, butalso, “a financial one. We’re teaching jewellers how to make moneyselling diamonds again,” says Mr. Ferguson. [CJ]

1. Blue Oval Circle Ring2. Oval Orange Ring

1.

2.


companyprofile


Producing any piece of jewellery is a capital intensivebusiness requiring expensive input costs in rawmaterialssuch as preciousmetals, diamonds, gemstones and labour.

In addition, jewellery is a luxury item which asks consumersto spend discretionary income on a something that appeals onan emotional level — something which adds a greater degreeof uncertainty to a product’s success in the market.

marketwatch


In every business, the ability to put the right

product into the right market at the right time is the

proverbial ‘Holy Grail.’ And from the point of view of

any business analyst, the jewellery industry has

been massively inefficient in this regard since the

dawn of large-scale jewellery manufacturing.

BY ROBIN GAMBHIR

Geomarketing Comes to

JewelleryDi Modolo, Milano 18Kgold Triadra necklace.

059-062.CJ_MrkWatch02.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 2:50 PM

With the advent of online shopping, the process of trackingconsumer behaviour and preferences became easier for onlineretailers, who could track product sales from their website.That was fine for online-only plays such as Blue Nile, but whatabout independent jewellers who do the majority of their salesin a store? Happily, most consumers still prefer to purchasetheir jewellery from a store in their community; local jewellersprovide a level of service that online-only retailers will neverbe able to match. But independent jewellers and their suppliersneed new tools to compete in markets that are faster andsmarter than ever before.

Giving Local Jewellers the Tools to CompeteOpenBlue’s raison d’etre has always been to provide thoselocal, independent jewellers with modern websites that givethem the ability to compete by leveraging their suppliers’inventory. This approach provides consumers shoppingonline with an inventory that is wider and deeper than anyonline-only retailer could match. And since OpenBlue sitesdrive traffic into the store (displaying an average of 10,000 items

of finished jewellery, loose diamonds, watches, clocks andgiftware on a retail site), it gives independent retailersmore inventory to drive a sale than any other jewellers’website. Every time consumers shop on a site powered byOpenBlue, everything they click on is recorded and fed backto the retailer and their suppliers. When a supplier’s repvisits the store, there is no doubt about the items that shouldbe held in stock by the retailer. Using this data, suppliers candeploy the right product into the right market. Retailers whowant to give it a try, can go to www.openbluestores.com.

See the MarketUp until now, readers of CJ have had the benefit of seeingthe market for different categories of jewellery throughstatistics; these statistics and the magazine’s consumer-drivenlists of the top 10 and top 100 are unprecedented in theindustry. With this edition of Canadian Jeweller, OpenBlue ispleased to show the next level of market data —maps. In thisand upcoming editions of “Market Watch,” you will be able toactually see the market for jewellery.


“Happily, most consumers still

prefer to purchase their jewellery

from a store in their community;

local jewellers provide a level

of service that online-only retailers

will never be able to match.”



Using this new technology, OpenBlue can now map marketdata for any category of jeweller, any loose diamond, watch,clock or giftware item. This serves as a broad step towards that‘Holy Grail’ of putting the right product into the right marketat the right time. Using geographical data to guide sales andmarketing is known as Geomarketing. OpenBlue will makethis data available to the industry as a free service this fall atwww.thewiredjeweller.com. Detailed statistics, along with ourtop 10/100 lists, will continue to be available in the pages ofCanadian Jeweller.

Mapping The Market For Canadian DiamondsSo-called “blood diamonds” have led to an increased demandfor Canadian diamonds as their “conflict-free” status seemsunimpeachable amongst consumers. Indeed, Canadiandiamonds have become the “brand” for diamonds free of theblood diamond stigma. So while retailers offer Canadiandiamonds, and diamond jewellery made with Canadiandiamonds are largely based in Canada, the demand for themcould extend outside of North America.

OpenBlue retail sites have a category of finished jewellerycalled “Made with Canadian Diamonds.” Shown on this pageis a world map (Map 1) where each balloon represents one ormore consumer(s) from the particular city that clicked on thiscategory.While the majority of OpenBlue-powered retail sitesare based in Canada, there is a lot of traffic from the UnitedStates and some scattered distribution across the globe. Thatmeans that a lot of Americans are finding these Canadianretailers and shopping at their sites.

Many OpenBlue retailers also have loose diamond searcheson their sites and one of the options on those searches is to onlyshow Canadian diamonds.Map 2 shows all the consumers whoselected that option when searching for loose diamonds.

Maps 1 and 2 depict a lot of interest in Canadian diamonds andCanadian diamond jewellery across Canada and in central andeastern United States. These maps represent broad trends andin the online version of the mapping system, you can zoom inon any area and pick out specific areas of concentration.

marketwatch

Map 3. In this map, there is a different distribution pattern fora particular style. There is some interest from the west coast ofthe United States, as well as heavy concentrations in Ontarioand Alberta.

Map 1. A world map where each balloon represents one or moreconsumers from the particular city that clicked on the Canadiandiamonds category. Noticeably, there is a lot of traffic from theUnited States.

Map 2. Results for consumers searching for loose Canadiandiamonds. The map depicts interest in Canadian diamonds/diamond jewellery across the country, as well as centraland eastern United States.

screen snapshot

screen snapshot

screen snapshot


marketwatch


For a supplier trying to decide where to market a specificstyle and for a retailer who is trying to decide what to stock,they need very specific information. To illustrate, we selecteda Polar Ice Canadian diamond solitaire.

When we look at map 3 on the previous page, we can see thatthis particular style has a different distribution pattern,compared to the broader maps which show general interestin Canadian diamonds. Here, the style of the ring itselfcomes into play and we can see some interest from the westcoast of the United States. In Canada, there is stronginterest across the country, with heavy concentrations inOntario and Alberta.

Applying this sort of Geomarketing technology to jewellerytakes a lot of the guesswork out of deploying products forboth retailers and manufacturers. Over time, geomarketingwill yield efficiencies and save everyone time and money byputting the right products in the right markets. [CJ]

“Applying this sort of Geomarketing technology to jewellery

takes a lot of the guesswork out of deploying products for both

retailers and manufacturers.”

Polar Ice Canadiandiamond solitaire

Dall'Avo for Gold Expressions 18Kgold white cromo collection withhardened white ceramic.


Store design is one of the key areas where jewellers candifferentiate themselves from their competitors.Eye-catching colour schemes and materials, intriguing

interiors, innovative custom display cases and superiorlighting are just a few of the many design factors that can helpput a jeweller’s business over the top. Current design trendsgeared toward larger store space, stand-alone stores, differentcolours, textures and materials, upscale looks and green initiativesare among some of the prime design strategies jewellers areutilizing to make an impact on their market.

storefeature


How store design is effective

in establishing a brand

and differentiating your store.

BY GLEN A. BERES

Making an impression

Graham Jewelers in Wayzata, Minnesota

063-065.CJ_StoreDesign02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:20 AM

Trends in the MakingPerhaps the biggest industry trend impacting store designright now is that independents are leaving the shoppingcentres and opening their own freestanding locations.Many jewellers are taking this step in order to eliminatecostly mall and shopping centre rents, while taking control oftheir own destiny and becoming more of a destination.

According to Keith Kovar, a Partner with retail design firmGrid 3 International in NewYork City, the move towards larger,freestanding stores means that jewellers can offer moreservices and choices to the customer, making them “morethan just a bunch of showcases.”

“We see more and more jewellers with larger stores in the4,000-7,000 square foot range building in multi-purpose[spaces, which] they can use for events,” Kovar says. “They’relooking for someplace to hold trunk shows, charity events,men’s nights, ladies’ nights and other key events.”

Jewellers are also turning to more environmentally-friendlydesigns in their stores to save money and “get on the samepage” as their customers, who consider the green initiativeimportant, Kovar adds. This includes using recycled materials,more earth tones and natural materials like wood and bamboo.Jewellers are also looking at ways to conserve electricity byusing lighting sources that draw less power or installing solarpanels on the roof to generate their own power.

While these kinds of design initiatives are more expensivethan the norm, Kovar notes that today, jewellers are willing toput more money into design so that the store lasts longerthan the typical leased space. “If you can do something nowthat costs you 2-3% more to put in, but over the life of thestore you’ll save 10-15%, it’s a no brainer,” he claims.

Let There Be LightLighting is one of the most critical store design elements forjewellers in terms of enhancing their merchandise presentationand increasing sales. However, lighting can be very costly,both in terms of installation and high-energy bills.That’s why more and more jewellers are turning to solutionssuch as pendant fixtures that can hang down from the ceilingand lower the lighting to five feet above the case. Experts notethat by using this type of drop-down lighting, jewellers canilluminate an entire case with just one light and cut theirelectric bills considerably.

Eco-Lite Products is one of the leading lighting companies thatserves the jewellery industry. According to Howard Gurock,President of the Tappan, New York-based firm, some of the keyfactors that jewellers need to consider in lighting their stores are:

� Ceiling Height. As the source of light moves farther awayfrom the merchandise, the power and intensity of thelight diminishes. Stores with higher ceilings (over ninefeet) either have to use more lights that are spaced closertogether to illuminate a showcase, or bring the lightsource closer by dropping down a track or using a pendant.

� Colour. The colour of light is measured in Kelvins(temperature). The higher the Kelvin reading, the coolerthe colour of light. As the temperature of light gets toohigh, the colour of light begins to take on a blue quality.

� Bulb Life/Quality. How long a bulb is expected to last isbased upon its “rated life.” Better bulbs have a rated lifein excess of 10,000 hours. The quality of a bulb also canbe measured by its Colour Rendition Index (CRI).The higher the CRI of a bulb, the better the quality ofthe light that it projects. CRI numbers over 80 signify avery high quality of light.

� Power of Light. The power of a bulb is measured inlumens. The amount of light generated is measured inLux, or more commonly, foot-candles. The higher thelumens, the higher the amount of foot-candles that willbe generated by a bulb.

� Different Light Sources. The three main sources of lightused in jewellery stores are ceramic metal halide, halogenand fluorescent. According to Gurock, the best sourcefor lighting jewellery is ceramic metal halide due to itsenergy efficiency, power and availability in warm and coolcolours and, not to mention, excellent CRI. In comparison,halogens are hot, have lower CRIs, do not maintain theircolour over the life of the bulb and offer about a third of thepower of a ceramic metal halide. Fluorescents are energyefficient, but do not project enough power to be useful in ajewellery store for illuminating merchandise, Gurock adds.


Elegant-looking wood showcase



While LED lighting is very popular right now with jewellers,Gurock warns that this option has its limitations.“LED technology is constantly changing, so a fixture you buytoday will be outdated in a year,” he says.“Also, keeping a con-sistent colour of the LED over time can be problematic dueto the changes in LED technology. Finally, LED lights canmake jewellery look great inside of the showcase, but they arenot powerful enough to be placed over the case where the saleis actually made. Due to this limitation, a different source oflight is required above the showcase such as ceramic metalhalide or halogen. This can cause problems by making a piecelook different in the case than it does when the salespersontakes it out to show it.”

Showcases MatterThere’s no doubt that custom displays have become increasinglypopular. Independents are making a commitment to moredisplays, especially those that are larger, taller and moreupscale, says Keely Grice, owner of Grice Showcase & DisplayManufacturing Co. in Charlotte, N.C.

Grice notes that retailers are looking for higher displays tobring the merchandise closer to the customer’s eye, making iteasier for the salesperson to reach in the case, while gettingextra storage space.

Jewellers are also willing to put more money into theirshowcases as a way to separate themselves from theircompetitors. This includes opting for a seamed glass look toenhance the view of the product (the front glass is bonded tothe top glass, as opposed to a traditional case with metal frontrails supporting and separating top and front glass panels);moving away from wood and using newer laminates thathave a richer, truer-looking wood finish; and moving awayfrom white case interiors to softer, creamier colours andinstalling radius showcases (rather than traditional angularcases) to provide radial “movement” in the store.

Overall, “the aggressive jewellers we work with who arewilling to put more money into their stores are havinggood years,” Grice says. “They are moving to freestandingstores because they’re tired of paying high mall costs; theyare designing larger stores, and they are even building theirown buildings and becoming landlords by leasing outthe extra space to other retailers. They are making a largercommitment to showcase and design work to separatethemselves, establish a store brand and give their stores somedecorative pop. They are doing these things to make theirbusinesses better.” [CJ]

storefeature

“Jewellers are also willing to put

more money into their showcases

as a way to separate themselves

from their competitors.”

1. LaViano Jewelers in Englewood, New Jersey2. Boutique with higher, seamed glass displays

1

2


Going that extra66 CJ S E P T E M B E R • O C T O B E R 2 0 0 8

Myles Mindham, Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc.

066-071.CJ_CoverStory02.qxd:Layout 1 9/17/08 2:30 PM

BY BRYAN SOROKA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVIDE BAGNAROL

Mile

When it comes to unique

designs and customer service,

Mindham Fine Jewellery is in

a class all by itself.


coverstory

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original sketch

A symbol of wanting and wishing, the four-leaf clover evokesthe memory of childhood magic and fantasy. 1.97 carat tsavoriteand 35 carat diamonds in 18-karat white gold.

Myles Mindham, commenting on the inspiration for his botanical collection.

IIt was 25 years ago that Myles Mindham began casting hislegacy as one of Canada’s most esteemed jewellery retailers anddesigners. Mindham’s intense fascination with jewellerydeveloped at an early age, and he began living his fantasyworking with a manufacturer that designed and retailed its owngoods. It was during this period that he discovered the manyintricacies of the jewellery business — from purchasingdiamonds to the execution of jewellery.

In 1986, with the backing of two investment bankers, Mindhambegan his first venture into retail with a store specializing incoloured stones from Brazil. As the store’s operating partner,Mindham travelled to Manaus and Rio de Janerio to designand execute the product for Stones Fine Jewellery. Thispartnership dissolved amicably in 1990 when Mindham tooka professional sabbatical and travelled to Europe to explorethe world of luxury retail when he was 30. “Having understoodthe ins and outs of the Toronto retail jewellery businessand the very different ways the luxury market catered to itsclientele in other parts of the world, I realized there was anopportunity, and I remembered what my father said, ‘Thereare many opportunities in business. Do what you love, successwill surely follow.’”

And he did just that. In 1990,Mindham openedMyles MindhamJewellery Ltd., now known as Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc.,in the Park Hyatt Hotel in downtown Toronto.

By developing a loyal clientele from his prior venture,Mindhampoints out, “I started off with bespoke work in the true senseof the word. I began making unique pieces and catered to myclients’ needs for extraordinary service. It grew from there.”

Mindham sketched out designs based on his clients’ wishes andthen went ahead and created the pieces from there. As hisnotoriety grew along with the demand for his creations, heopened a retail store on the main floor of the Park Hyatt.“I opened it as a test for retail,” he says. This certainly paid off.Since opening the retail store, revenues have doubled. Today, thestore and upper office are staffed by 18 people who provide theknowledge, expertise and, of course, service that the retailer’scustomers have come to rely upon.

Service Never SleepsMindham and his staff approach service with just as muchpassion as they do their jewellery. “My clients are people thatcan shop anywhere,” he details. “They shop with me because wehave a relationship.” These strong associations have been builtupon a unique and in-depth level of service that includeseverything from the management of jewellery portfolios andinsurance issues, to burning CDs, to catalogue pieces, andconsulting on the clients’ safe layout and the storage of their finejewellery. Mindham is not shy to point out that he and his staffgo even further than that. “We pick up and deliver jewellery.We even went to a customer’s cottage and had the piece sitting



A symbol of potential: from a tiny acorn, a mighty oak can grow.The diamonds reflect the earth tones of fall. Acorn cufflinks with blackdiamond pavé, mounted on white and yellow gold, with a black rhodium.

Warm sapphire tones are used to intimate the delicacy of this exquisiteJapanese maple pendant. Pink sapphires, 8,99 carat on 18-karat white gold.Brooch doubles as a pendant necklace.

original sketch original sketch


coverstory

and waiting on the dock at a certain time. You truly have tooffer world-class service.With top clients like mine…when theywant something, you have to deliver.”

Making sure his clients get exactly what they want has alwaysbeen a commitment.However, according to the retailer /designer,the greatest sales tool at his disposal is trust. “When I call ahusband or a wife and tell them there’s something they need tosee, they come because we never call unnecessarily. They trust meto navigate their jewellery collections. Breaking that trust couldbecome viral. At this end of the market, word travels fast.”

Unique by Design

From a retail perspective,Mindham Fine Jewellery is a rare breed,as it does not only sell fine jewellery, but creates its own pieces.Mindham’s lines include Branches, a romantic interpretation ofnature; Caviar, winner of the 2004 Excellence in Design award;Hardware, an everyday, durable collection; Software, a 1997Diamonds Today award winner; Elegance, classic designs inspiredby simplicity; Fluid, a series of original, convertible and wearablepieces; Genesis, yet another award-winning original line; andfinallyMod, jewellery inspired by the bold graphics of the 1970’s.Insofar as what lines he does carry, Mindham explains, “We werethe first to introduce Frank Mueller watches in Toronto. We’realso launching a line from Backes Luxury, the new division ofBackes & Strauss, the oldest diamond company in London.”This hybrid series of timepieces, crafted by both Frank Mueller

and Backes & Strauss, is based on the architectural designs ofJohn Nash during the Regency period in London and “are astandout style piece sure to appeal to my clientele,” he notes.Another forthcoming line, Perrelet, has the distinction of beinga company founded by Abraham Louis Perrelet, inventor of theautomatic watch. Mindham states, “a good portion of mybusiness is high-end watches. It’s a hot category; we like to offerour clientele watches others don’t have in this market and are ofthe finest quality. My clients have seen these watches inAspreys, Harrods and Bergdorf ’s, and appreciate being able toacquire them at home.” Primary categories at the store includeexotic pearls, coloured stone bracelets, necklaces and earrings.“It’s all about luxury accessorizing,” Mindham notes.

Because Mindham Fine Jewellery is so unique, Mindham saysthat, “My largest competition is my clients’ art collections andtravel.” Mindham adds that some people are tougher thanothers when it comes to pricing, though he is resolute when itcomes to his store’s price points. “We stick to our guns,” he says.“We never go on sale because it cheapens the brand.”

Luxurious Comfort

Like most retailers, Myles is fully aware of how importantit is to keep on top of industry trends. In fact, he has gonea step further by creating an advisory board, which is madeup of some of his clients who happen to be captains ofindustry.“I have five extraordinary advisors for business.


For style and design, I consult a group of 11 clients spanningmost of my client profile.” Mindham continues to say thatthese individuals fall outside of the jewellery industry, andfeed him information on how they see Mindham and how heruns his business.

When it comes to the store itself, Mindham has also taken aninnovative approach. In lieu of typical showcase displays,Mindham Fine Jewellery exhibits its exquisite designs andwatches in galleries. The décor of the store has an elegantresidential feel, an environment Mindham believes his clientsfeel much more comfortable in, but something very difficult toachieve. “The hardest job in the world is to create anenvironment where people feel at ease while selecting finejewellery,” he reflects.

Marketing Measures

Getting the word out is also one of the toughest jobs facingany jewellery retailer, a fact that Mindham is fully aware of.This explains why he manages all of his store’s press via a PRfirm. A huge part of the marketing mix includes a focusedand regular run of direct mail campaigns, which informMindham’s clients of upcoming events, new productsand other store happenings. Mindham also runs ads inthe papers for watches, but he says, “how we really market isby endorsements through well-known figures.”

Celebrities including former Prima Ballerina, Karen Kain, andactress, Kim Catrall, are just a few of the notable people thatcan be seen wearing Mindham’s creations. While having suchvisible people sporting these designs is great, “none of myclients will buy a piece because a celebrity wears it,” he says.“But it builds awareness – they’re brand ambassadors.”Another of these ambassadors, award-winning CanadianSoprano, Measha Brueggergosman, wears Mindhaminternationally and has inspired a new line, the MeashaCollection, which Mindham plans to unveil this October.

The primary marketing tool for the retailer/designer, though, isphilanthropy. “Over the last 10 years, we’ve given away dozens ofpieces at some of our clients’ fundraisers.” A good cause is ahighly effective medium for placing Mindham’s creations in thehands of the jewellery-wearing community. More than that,Mindham says that “my clients support me and I support them.”Finally, he is a firm believer in the recognition and attention thatwinning design awards grants his business. “It’s a tremendoustool to build our reputation in the early developing years.”

Looking AheadFuture plans for the Company include focusing on accessiblejewellery. “We hope to market more jewellery, like our Hardwareline, through other retailers to create a national presence.”Recognizing that many of his client’s children were in the market


“We stick to our guns.We never go on sale because

it cheapens the brand.”

Baroque pearls, measuring 13.90-15.70mm with a 2.20 carat diamond clasp which mimics the shape of the pearls.Set in 18-karat white gold, the clasp becomes a feature. The pearls are a careful selection of South Sea, Australianand Indonesian Gold, chosen for their rare shapes and colour.


for engagement and wedding bands, and with the increasedretail presence, Mindham has created his own bridal collection.

The general schedule for introducing new products is, “earlyspring to get people interested, since most Canadians getmarried in the summer, which means many are looking foranniversary and wedding items,” he says. “Other key launchperiods are fall and pre-Christmas.” Mindham also organizestrunk shows for these launches in Vancouver, and this year’sevent will mark the third anniversary of the promotion.

Insofar as how the industry has changed, Mindham pointsout the sophistication of the jewellery consumer. “It’s affectedus the most,” he says. “Younger people are going online…learning more and more about jewellery and coming intothe store with a lot more knowledge, making our sales jobmuch easier.” To ensure that Mindham Fine Jewellery capturesthis highly informed market, it will be launching a newwebsite this fall. “To capture younger consumers, you need togive them the resources they are comfortable using and need,”says Mindham.

What started out as a modest bespoke jewellery designer hastransformed into one of this industry’s most innovativeretailers. By providing its clients with one-of-a-kind creations,and offering service that certainly goes the extra mile,

Mindham Fine Jewellery, and its customers, can expect bigthings in the future. “The move to retail was the right move,”Mindham concludes. “And we’re definitely refining andimproving as we move ahead. We never stop learning andadapting — that’s what makes things so exciting.” [CJ]

“I am always amazedby the extraordinary

simplicity of the

complex design of

nature, and I feel

so fortunate that it’s

my business to

capture what is natural

and express it in metal

and gems, with

exquisite detail.”


coverstory

Echinacea blooms in the height of mid-summerand is a beautiful symbol of the peak of that season,with a hint of sadness; summer will end.Ring with 5.20 carat purple sapphires, .59 carat yellowsapphire at centre, set in 18-karat white gold.

319.62 carat cabachon-cut aquamarinebracelet; gems set in 18-karat white gold.


Photos by Davide Bagnarol

With over 80 entries and support from Rio Tinto Diamonds,MCD Pearls,Byrex Gems Inc. and Rare & Precious Gems,the 2008 Excellence in Design competition was bigger and better than ever. Choosing from categories includingDiamonds & Coloured Diamonds, Canadian Diamonds, Pearls, Platinum and Coloured Gemstones, judges weretreated to a stunning cavalcade of world-class designs that were as unique as they were beautiful.

BY BRYAN SOROKA

Excellent byDesignThis year’s Excellence in Design competition showcased some of Canada’s

most talented and innovative jewellery artisans.


1. Darlene Mooney, Marquis Jewellers (accepting award for designer Socrates Reppas) with Olivier Felicio, 2. Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery with Olivier Felicio,3. Dieter Huebner, Foresite Jewellery with Olivier Felicio, 4. (left to right) Myles Mindham, Mindham Fine Jewellery and Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varoujwith Olivier Felicio, 5. Tracy Taylor, Dragonov Fine Jewellery Studio (accepting award for designer George Draganov) with Olivier Felicio, 6. (left to right) Alfredo Alvarez,Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballentine, Louis Louro, Louro Jewellers Inc. with Norma Meneguzzi Spall, Excellence in Design co-ordinator, 7. Alfredo Alvarez,Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballentine with Olivier Felicio

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2

3

7

4 6

5

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DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDSCATEGORY HONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS

Swirled double shank ring with black diamondsby Alfredo Alvarez, Aurum Design forBurgundy & Ballantine Inc., Toronto

This 18-karat white gold setting features a 2.01 caratdiamond set within a swirled double shank of bead-set,natural black diamonds weighing 2.00 carats in total.

Diamond necklace inspired by Ontario’s Niagara Regionby Louis Louro, Louro Jewellers, Toronto

More than nine carats are used in this handmade necklaceinspired by Ontario’s Niagara Region. The water and mistare represented by vibrant blue and white diamonds. As thediamonds cascade down the falls, they change into a flow ofred, purple, light green and yellow coloured diamondsdepicting the various wines of the Niagara Region. A waveof tanzanite beads represents the Niagara River.

DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDSCATEGORY WINNER

“Hidden Treasure” diamond engagement ring and weddingband by Varouj Tabakian, Toronto

This two-piece ensemble can be worn separately or together.The hidden diamond ring features intricate etching on gold, withfour baguette diamonds totalling 0.25 carats. The outer ringfeatures 38 round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 1.01 carats.


awardsfeature

Winners of the event were announced at an awardsreception held during JCK Toronto on Monday, August 11.Judges Anne Neumann (President,Harold Weinstein Ltd.),Paul McClure (Professor, George Brown College, JewelleryDesign Program), Gail Golberg (CEO, Diarough CanadaSales and Uni-Design Canada), Catherine Sproule(Director, North American Operations Responsible JewelleryPractices) and Melanie Egan (Head, Craft DepartmentHarbourfront Centre), had their work cut out for them, aseach entrant could easily have been declared the winner.


CANADIAN DIAMONDS WINNER

Diamond accented spheres within a sphere dangle earrings bySusan Kun, Susan Kun Jewellery Design, Canmore

A pair of round brilliant-cut Canadian diamonds totalling0.52 carats are bezel-set in 18-karat yellow and white gold.Two thin strands of gold connect the diamond studs todiamond-accented gold spheres within a sphere.

CANADIAN DIAMONDSHONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS

“Diamond wave ring” by Varouj Tabakian,Jewellery by Varouj, Toronto

A 1.01 carat Canadian diamond rides the crest of a diamondwave totalling 61 points in this 18-karat and platinumdiamond ring.

Cascading diamond pendant by Myles Mindham,Myles Mindham Fine Jewellery, Toronto


“I wake up most mornings and I sketch

out my ideas. Sometimes they come

quickly, sometimes they take a little longer.

But my designs are always totally unique,

which is why this ring won—there really

is nothing else like it.”

Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery

Three round, brilliant-cut Canadian diamonds of 1.15tcwtake centre stage in this pendant of continuous circularspheres, which also features three diamond bead set spherestotalling 0.42 carats.


PEARLS WINNER

Haute couture pearl ear ornaments by Dieter Huebner,Foresite Jewellery, Toronto

Containing 51 natural seed, light cream rose pearls set in18-20-karat white and yellow gold, this pair of earornaments were hand-assembled and custom-made.They fit over the ear and gently grace the cheekbones.

PEARLSHONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS

Baroque pearl lariat necklace by Myles Mindham,Mindham Fine Jewellery, Toronto

This 28-inch pearl lariat necklace features six baroque whiteSouth Sea pearls measuring 12-15mm, which are flanked oneither side by circular 18-karat white gold beads set aroundbrilliant diamond accents of 1.71tcw. Facetted blacktourmaline beads weighing 182.21tcw separate each baroquepearl. One of the baroque pearls is a removable pendant.

Milky white, blister pearl pendant by Mark Katzeff,Mark Katzeff Goldsmith, Edmonton

A milky white blister pearl drop pendant is accented with agold and platinum swirl ending with a 0.05 carat diamond.


awardsfeature

“We have so much talent here in Canada,

and these awards celebrate that.

Canadian designers are as good as any

others around the world and we need to

make sure people recognize that.”

Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj


PLATINUM WINNER

Highly polished platinum opal and diamond ringby Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery, Toronto

Four highly polished platinum columns, each topped with aprincess cut diamond boldly surround a black opal weighing3.17 carats. Total diamond weight is 1.21 carats.

PLATINUMHONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS

A platinum and diamond ring by George Draganov,Draganov Fine Jewellery Studio, Toronto

This open-domed platinum ring features a diamond centrestone weighing 1.45 carats. White and natural pinkdiamonds accent thin platinum strands totalling 0.65 carats.

Highly polished, sculpted platinum and diamond ringby Socrates Reppas, Marquis Jewellers, Toronto

Highly polished platinum is sculpted into an elegantthunderbolt topped with a 2.01-carat round brilliant cutdiamond. Smaller round brilliant cut diamonds totalling0.85 carats are set along the side of the platinum shank.


“When I found out I won, I had a smile on

my face for a whole week. The fact that

industry experts voted for my work made it

that much better. They really know how

hard it is to make this kind of a piece,

which means a lot.”

Susan Kun, Susan Kun Jewellery Design


COLOURED GEMSTONES WINNER

Ladies’ right hand ring by Rudi Peet,Rudi Peet Goldsmith, Canmore

This ladies’ right-hand ring features a 2.55 carat naturalcushion-cut blue sapphire and 0.36tcw of brilliant cutdiamonds set in 19-karat white gold.

COLOURED GEMSTONESHONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS

Imperial topaz two-level bridge ring by Alfredo Alvarez,Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballantine, Toronto

A 3.71-carat imperial topaz is set on a two-level bridge18-karat white gold ring studded with 1.40 carats of roundbrilliant cut diamonds.

Green/yellow beryl marquis pendant by Susan Roberts,SLR Designs Inc., Calgary

This sleek, elongated pendant provides a futuristic settingfor a 2.87 carat green/yellow beryl marquis plus six treatedblue diamonds totalling 0.36 carats. [CJ]


awardsfeature

“I’ve won many awards over the years,

and they always make me and my staff

feel great. I won this award at the age of

58—that means I’ve still got it!“

Socrates Reppas, Marquis Jewellers


About GIA:An independent non-profit organization, the GemologicalInstitute of America (GIA) is recognized as the world'sforemost authority in gemology. Established in 1931, GIAhas translated its expert knowledge into the most respectedgemological education available. Early in the 1950’s, GIAinvented the famous Four Cs: of Colour, Cut, Clarity andCarat Weight. In 1953, the Institute created the InternationalDiamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized byvirtually every professional jeweller in the world.

Through research, education, gemological laboratoryservices, and instrument development, the Institute isdedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelleryby upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics,

science and professionalism.

DISTRIBUTION OF STUDY SAMPLES

KEY BODYCOLOR

Most of the natural-coloured diamonds tested could be grouped into three categoriesbased on their fluorescence spectra. Three diamonds with particularly rare colourswere inert, and two had a different type of fluorescence spectrum.

Natural coloured diamonds are so varied and rare that they havedefied efforts to conduct extensive studies of their properties.

Thanks to the Aurora Butterfly of Peace, a collection of 240 diamondsof various colours, a team of researchers had a unique opportunityto conduct such a study when the Butterfly was on exhibit at theSmithsonian Institution. Specifically, these researchers examinedfluorescence trends of natural fancy-coloured diamonds using a newportable fluorescence spectrometer.

Their findings, published in a winter 2007 Gems & Gemology articletitled, “Fluorescence Spectra of Colored Diamonds Using a Rapid,Mobile Spectrometer,” could help gemologists more easily identifytreated-colour diamonds.

Researchers Sally Eaton-Magaña, Jeffrey Post, Peter Heaney, RoyWalters,Christopher Breeding and James Butler examined 48 diamondsin the Butterfly collection, two fancy-coloured diamonds housed by theSmithsonian (the DeYoung Red and the DeYoung Pink) and 22 samplesfrom GIA. They also looked at 10 irradiated coloured diamonds.

The team selected diamonds in a range of bodycolours that includedpink, yellow, yellow-green, orange, brown and blue-grey, as well asrare specimens such as fancy white, purple and chameleon. For themost part, they limited their picks to those that showed fluorescenceto long-wave ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

After testing, most of the diamonds were grouped into threecategories, according to shared characteristics in their fluorescencespectra. The spectra of category 1 diamonds generally appeared asbluish fluorescence. This category encompassed most of the pinks,the fancy white and several yellow natural-coloured diamonds. Bycontrast, the irradiated diamonds in this category had green togreenish blue bodycolours.

The majority of diamonds within category 2, which included theyellow-green and brown stones, had green or yellowish greenfluorescence. In most cases, these natural, untreated diamonds hadweak to moderate fluorescence spectra, whereas two greenish yellowirradiated samples showed strong to very strong spectra.

The UV fluorescence of the stones in category 3, which containedmost of the orange and grey-green chameleon diamonds, generallyappeared as yellow or yellow-orange. None of the irradiateddiamonds fell in this category, but a broader study of treateddiamonds would be needed to confirm this as a trend.

With a few exceptions, the fluorescence of natural diamonds in thethree main groups corresponded to their bodycolour. However, theirradiated samples in the first two categories showed eithersignificantly different bodycolours or different spectral intensities.These types of indicators may prove useful in separating naturalfrom treated diamonds.

ADAPTED BY RUSSELL SHOR, GIA SENIOR INDUSTRY ANALYST

Shades ofGloryAfter extensive testing, here is a new look at coloured diamond fluorescence.


078-079.CJ_GIAFeature02.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 2:54 PM

Fluorescence spectroscopy can help characterize large numbersof important diamonds, such as these 0.51–2.03 ct stones from theOctober 2007 Argyle collection. Courtesy of Argyle Diamond;photo by Robert Weldon.

The coloured diamonds in the Aurora Butterfly of Peace (166.94carats total weight), assembled by Alan Bronstein and HarryRodman of Aurora Gems Inc., New York, demonstrate nearly the fullspectrum of colour and cut styles available in natural coloureddiamonds. The collection is shown here in standard daylight (left)and long-wave UV radiation (right). Photos by Robert Weldon.

These dramatically different fluorescence colours were producedby minor differences in the diamonds’ fluorescence spectra.The similarity of the spectra suggests that this range offluorescence colours is caused by the same atomic-level defect.Photo by Shane Elen.

While not conclusive, these spectra may also provide clues to theorigins of the colour in these diamonds, which would help guidefuture studies. For example, the origins of yellow (nitrogen), blue(boron) and green (radiation) bodycolour are well known, thoughresearchers are still trying to pin down what creates the colour inpinks, browns and others.

The study also demonstrated that fluorescence spectra are moreaccurate than fluorescence seen with a UV lamp. This can producedifferent results for different observers, especially given thenonstandard lighting environments in which fluorescence is oftenviewed. The fluorescence spectra measured by a spectrometer canbe quite similar, even if the fluorescence colours appear differentto the eye. In addition, fluorescence spectra providefar more information than visible fluorescence alone, such as asemiquantitative indication of intensity and the presence ofsubordinate peaks.

One objective of the research was to evaluate a low-cost, compactfluorescence spectrometer, which was produced by Ocean Optics.This instrument, the size of a deck of cards, enabled the researchersto study diamonds that could not be removed from a laboratory. Itsmobility and rapid collection time will make it easier for futureresearch on important gemstones held in museums and privatecollections, and could prove useful in a commercial setting.

From this research, the authors also found that no two diamondsshowed identical fluorescence spectra; they all demonstratedlight differences in peak intensity or relative intensity betweenpeaks. These subtleties are part of what makes each stoneunique. Everything about a diamond — from clarity features tothe atomic-scale defects that cause fluorescence — tells thatdiamond’s story. Its fluorescence spectrum is one more chapterin that story, one more tool by which individual diamonds maybe characterized. [CJ]


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In February of 2008, shares of Blue Nile Inc. went down17% to $44.67 after the American online jeweller gave adisappointing first-quarter forecast that was more than

10 million dollars short of what analysts expected. “We didnot believe the jewellery market would weaken sodramatically and we did not believe Nile would be thiscyclical,” said Citi Analyst Mark Mahaney in an interviewwith Top Stock’s Kim Petersen.

Blue Nile’s results and the downturn of the U.S. jewellerysector came as a surprise to many who used to think thatluxury retail was immune to economic troubles.

BY GLEN A. BERES

The Canadian gold jewellery market is standing strong

as customers look to make a better statement.


Maya Jewels18k gold Crimes of Passioncollection, Butterfly and Art Deco perfumebottles with gemstone accents

A Gold Statement

Dana David18K gold moon ring

082-085.CJ_Gold Jewellery Feat02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:25 AM


goldfeature

Anna Ruth Henriques at Viewpoint18k gold leaf cuff, olive leaf necklace

and vine ring with moonstone

� Strong ongoing demand for white goldjewellery, particularly in bridal, althoughyellow gold jewellery has enjoyed a resurgencein fashion (non-bridal) jewellery.

� Two-tone looks utilizing both yellowand white gold.

� Bigger, bolder pieces that are heavier anduse a premium on unique looks, even inbasics, to allow customers to express theirown individual style.

� Fancier designs and finishes that standout and make any piece look like it isa designer piece.

� Texture and striking contrasts, such aspieces utilizing both polished and mattefinishes, particularly in neckchains andbracelets where the look is easily achievedthrough alternating links.

� In the lower-end market, thinner pieces thatminimize the impact from higher gold pricesand maintain affordable price points, as wellas the use of sterling silver in combinationwith gold (and more sterling silver used onits own to replace some gold categoriesand keep price points down).

Hellmuth18K gold croco cuff and earrings

Industry experts have identified the following keycurrent trends in the Canadian gold jewellery market:

According to a Forbes survey, nearly a quarter ofU.S. luxury consumers say their economicsituations are worse than a year ago. In the secondhalf of last year, spending on luxury goods like goldjewellery fell by 20%, said Top Stock, while salesgrowth slowed at retailers such as Nordstrom, Saksand Tiffany.

While the U.S. gold jewellery market has beenbattered by economic woes and spiralling goldprices, the Canadian gold jewellery market hasbeen less impacted and much more resilient,according to retailers and manufacturers familiarwith both markets.

At the moment, the Canadian gold jewellerymarket is characterized by strong demands forhigher and lower priced products. Subsequently,the demand for gold jewellery has continued tothrive in the Canadian bridal and fashion markets,with strong sales of gold set with diamonds andnon-stone gold pieces.

goldfeature



Little Impact on Canadian Demand

In the Canadian market, retailers and manufacturers observethat there is a polarization in the demand for gold jewellery.Pieces in both the higher and lower ends are selling well,while the market for mid-priced products is being squeezedsomewhat, which results in customers in the middle segmentmoving upwards and downwards aspirationally.

According to Gary Bensimon, third-generation jeweller andOwner of Bijoux Village, an upscale store in Toronto,Ontario, a number of the retailers’ manufacturing partnersare “feeling the pinch” from a sluggish world jewellery marketand high gold prices. At the request of many retailers, thesemanufacturers are cutting down on the weight of their goldjewellery to keep price points at a constant level. Some retailersare also replacing gold pieces with sterling silver to bringprice points down. However, the mid- to upper-end marketthat Bijoux serves has not really altered its gold jewellerybuying patterns in the face of these types of economic issues,he notes. “Our market has been fairly insulated from theseeconomic problems,” Bensimon says.

On the supplier side, Siffari (a CJ company profile, August2008) provides another example of the ongoing strength ofthe higher-end jewellery market. Siffari, a leading jewellerymanufacturer that is also based in Toronto, has seen verystrong sales for its higher-end signature line of gold jewelleryin pendants and ladies’ fashion rings, says Matt Rudin,National Marketing Manager. “The Canadian industry isstronger than the U.S. industry right now,” Rudin says.“Our customers are independent retailers, and in thosestores, people are buying higher-end gold pieces like oursignature line. There is a market for smaller gold pieces, butthe upper end is doing very well, given the economic timesand rising gold prices.”

Orlando Orlandi18K yellow and white gold

fashion collection

Michael Good Designs18K gold matte/polished hoop, 22K gold andpatinated bronze hoop, 22K gold and patinatedbronze hoop, icicle & figure eight earrings


Annie Fensterstock for Fragments22K yellow and 18K white goldpendant necklace, earrings, ringwith coloured diamonds


Success in the Canadian Gold Market

Although yellow gold has made a strong comeback afterseveral years of consumers favouring white metal, white goldis still very popular, according to retailers. Consumers arelooking for something unique that will make them standout. For example, at Bijoux Village, unusual, one-of-a-kindgold items such as antique-looking pieces are very popular.Even with basics like hoop earrings, Bensimon claims thatcustomers are looking for pieces with diamonds, mixedmetals, textures and finishes (although gold withcoloured gemstones is not as strong as gold pairedwith diamonds). The store is also selling a lot oflonger chains in both yellow and white gold togo with hoop earrings. “Our customers arestaying away from the big trends and aretrying to set their own style,” Bensimon adds.

At Nash Jewellers, a prominent chain of storesbased in London,Ontario, customers are also stickingwith white gold and looking for unique, rather thanrun-of-the-mill, basic gold items. The Company,which services the mid- to upper-end market, is seeing amarked increase in demand for bigger, bolder gold necklaceswith two-tone yellow and gold metal. “Our gold customerswant a little more bang for their buck; they’re looking at goldnecklaces without stones and without sliders – they want areal stand-alone precious metal piece,” says Colin Nash, afourth-generation jeweller and one of the principals of NashJewellers. “While we’ve noticed a little comeback with yellowgold, white gold is still our best seller.”

Although 14-karat gold is a major category for Nash(the Company sells nothing lower than 14-karat gold), theretailer has had strong sales in 18-karat gold as well. In fact,Nash observes that despite the rise in gold prices, sales ofbetter gold jewellery have actually gone up this year.

Some of the stronger design trends in gold for Nash Jewellersinclude pieces with contrast, such as chains with alternatingwhite gold and yellow gold links, and pieces with alternatingbrushed and polished links. OMEGA necklaces have alsobeen doing well, along with cable designs like those fromCharriol. Nash also expects rose gold jewellery to emerge asa hot new trend in the near future to complement strongsales for rose gold watches.

Going forward, Canadian retailers and manufacturersbelieve that the gold jewellery market will remain strong,particularly as the category is one of the industry’s best sellersas a gift item for the all-important holiday season. [CJ]

Zoë B. Ltd.14K gold necklaces and earringswith green amethyst, blue topaz,peridot and citrine accents

goldfeature


BY BRYAN SOROKA

Brand and Deliver Part II:Last issue, we discovered what a brand is, along with its essential components.

Now, you can confidently move ahead and build a strategic marketing and merchandising

plan to take your business to the next level.

YourBrandinAction


086-087.CJ_BrandingFeature.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 3:01 PM

If you have been following along with this series, youshould be well prepared to take the next step, which isactually developing a brand plan, and accordingly, a

schedule for its launch. For those of you who have not beenenlightened by the first installment, here, essentially, is whatyou need to know…

In Part I, we discussed how a brand is not a tangible asset, butrather a feeling or emotion that your products and services elicitwith your customers. In other words: a collection of perceptionsin the mind of your consumer. We also discussed a widely used(and highly significant) term, “living your brand.” This is acrucial mentality, which is directed internally towards you andyour staff. Finally, we arrived at the foundation of any effectivebrand: Brand Essence – the distillation of the brand identity andencapsulation of its values. In short, a word (or words) that bestdefines your brand.

This series then delved deeper into what makes up a brand,which included the Brand Identity. As you may recall, brandidentity is what impacts consumer choice, so establishing soundmeasures for all of these components is of the utmostimportance, and something we will engage in now to help youset your brand free. However, before we start with that, we mustalso consider the importance of your store’s name, how it playsinto your brand, as well as how your tagline (or creating one)can further the impact of communications.

Industry-Specific

While brand building processes are virtually the same for anyindustry, each does possess some unique characteristics thatmust be addressed. Many jewellery industry members arefirm believers that the fastest route to differentiation is byoffering custom-made jewellery. This may be effective,though it is certainly not easy. However, by providing yourcustomers with one-of-a-kind pieces, they will come toassociate this unique factor with your store, which will, inturn, strengthen your brand.

Aside from this tactic, you can also consider the following,which are directly related to building a jewellery retailer’s brand:

Experience the Difference: It is crucial to have more than theright product and price. Turning your customers’ visits into anexperience goes a long way for building your brand, as well ashelping to ensure repeat and new business.

Relationships Count: Take the time to get to know yourcustomers. Help them with purchase decisions. Getting involvedwith your customers builds a sense of trust and confidence.

Community Spirit: Courting clients is a great way to strengthenrelationships. Some savvy retailers go as far as conductingregular outings with their customers. The goal is to enjoy a goodmeal or event, but at the same time, engage in some business-related topics.

Keeping up with Change: Manufacturers of designer jewelleryand watches are opening stores. Diamond houses aremanufacturing their own jewellery and offering loose stones toInternet companies. The jewellery industry is changing, and youneed to keep up with these market shifts and adjust yourbusiness plans accordingly.

A Personalized Approach: No two customers want the samething, which means they all want to walk out of your store witha different look. Try to excite your customers with fresh, newideas such as pairing one designer's earrings with another’s ringand yet another's necklace.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, developing and executing your brand plan is notso complicated. The key factors that will determine your successare consistency of your messaging and frequency ofcommunications and discipline. The temptation to change yourmessaging, logo, tagline, etc. is always there, but remember – youlive with it everyday. Your customers, meanwhile, do not. [CJ]

“... we must also consider the importance

of your store’s name, how it plays into your brand,

as well as how your tagline (or creating one)

can further the impact of communications.”


brandingfeature

086-087.CJ_BrandingFeature.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 3:01 PM

Stars are already gearing up to dazzle on the Emmy redcarpet, and stylists are pulling together jewellery andaccessories to make each celebrity outfit camera-ready.

Here are a few jewellery and style trends to consider for anyred carpet entrance:

Screen GoddessOn the wrist, celebrities will continue to stackchunky platinum and diamond cuffs or bangles,as well as multi-layer, platinum gem-setbracelets reminiscent of a 50’s icon. Large

statement pieces will be used to highlight areasof interest, either on a gown, around the face or at

the wrist. Earrings, of course, will be a major player, but thedrama will be designed to frame the face with platinum anddiamond ear-bobs, studs or major ear-clusters.

Technicolour TreatmentBlack and red are in at this year’s Emmys. Rubies set withdiamonds in platinum will give the maximum effect on a redor black gown, as will the contrast of candy-coloured gemcombinations and gorgeous coloured diamonds set withwhite diamonds. For those looking for maximum contrast,black diamonds, onyx and other darkgemstones will boost the appearanceof platinum, as well as large whitediamonds and pearls for accent.

Retro and VintageThe elegance of Edwardian platinumopenwork and the grace of rose-cut diamonds bring backmemories of Hollywood royalty.Large disc-style platinum anddiamond pendants can be worn as acentral piece and then layered with otherlonger Riviera style or “diamonds by the yard” chains tolengthen wider silhouettes.

The Male CounterpartMen continue to look for ways to create a littlesizzle without overdoing it, such as aplatinum pin on their lapel. There areenough younger celebrities today who love towear jewellery, so don’t be surprised by anopen shirt and a pendant or two or amasculine brushed platinum bracelet.More conservative male celebrities willstick with the tried and true platinumand diamond cufflink and shirtstud combination. Not tomention, those on the fence willopt for a striking collector’splatinum watch.

Carpet ForecastWith the cancellation of the Golden Globes earlier this yearand with the Emmy Awards on the horizon, TV’s biggestnight will surely not disappoint our thirst for celebrity style cues.

Red

Platinum cuff braceletwith white and coloureddiamonds by Neil Lane

Platinum and diamond rose andcushion cut earrings by Michael Beaudry

Platinum and black diamondcocktail ring by Erica Courtney

Platinum anddiamond broochlapel pin by SomosCreations


088-089.CJ_StarWatch_re.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 4:14 PM

starwatch

Hollywood celebs are also making a gold statement

Scarlett JohanssonA gold necklace was Scarlett Johansson’s glamourous choice for the

premiere of the new Woody Allen film, Vicky Christina Barcelona. TheJewellery Insider blog observes that the star wore a gold statement

necklace designed by Sonia Boyahian – who is also responsible forthe actress’s engagement ring – with a red Monique Lhuillier gown.

Celebs at the Piaget LaunchPiaget’s recent jewellery and watch collection launch welcomeda number of stars to New York’s Rockefeller Centre. TheParis-New York event, which showcased the Company’s newrange, was attended by The Phantom of the Opera star, EmmyRossum, who wore a white gold cascade necklace, reports FoxBusiness.

Kylie MinogueKylie Minogue, the ambassador of the jewellery brand, Tous,

has a new collection of rings, earrings, necklaces andpendants in yellow and white gold, the World GoldCouncil reports. The singer’s collection, named Lifein Music, Rock in Pure Form, is inspired by objectsin her musical world such as hearts, sunglasses,microphones, shooting stars and stilettos. [CJ]

GoldStars

1. Scarlett Johansson2. Emmy Rossum3. Kylie Minogue

1.

2.

3.


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Not to be left out of the sheen, shoe designer Manolo Blahnikproduced a pair of 24-karat gold shoes for Reem Acra andLondon-based PPQ, featuring gold tiaras on their fall seasonrunway. Roberto Coin, inspired by the summer Olympics,now offers a pair of 24-karat gold leather sneakers to race thisgold rush to its ultimate climax. Many jewellery designers arecatching this contagious condition, with more and moredesigners including Amrapali, Arunashi, Gurhan, Coomi,Maya Jewels, Erhan Gursen and Sevan, working in high-karatgold for a purer yellow radiance.

Yellow Fever

The Renaissance of yellow gold has reached a climax withgold popping up in headlines for beauty, fashion, accessories,home décor and personal electronics. Classic links, cuffs andearrings with updated embellishments, all in the warmth ofyellow gold, are adorning the runways of couture designersMichael Kors, Nicole Miller, Diane Von Furstenberg, Fendi,Venexiana, Nicole Romano and more.

BY DUVALL O’STEEN

Trends in the MakingFrom the hottest styles to the most coveted categories, find out what your

customers will be looking for this coming fall and holiday season.


1.

090-093.CJ_FallTrends.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:20 AM

3.

2.

4.

The Wrists Have It

Big, bold looks at the wrist top the trends in gold. Chunky,large link bracelets by Cynthia Gregg, Erhan Gursen, EugeneUnger, just to name a few, and modern takes on the iconicgold cuffs by designers like Deborah Pagani, Julie Baker andK. Brunini are showing up everywhere. Hammered textures,inclusion of other materials such as agate, ebony, colouredgems and more give modern twists to the classic gold cuff,producing wearable works of art that are elegant and relevantwithout being audacious in a time of economic uncertainty.This celebrity-driven trend hales from the red carpet and alsoincludes armloads of stackable gold bangles. Charms arekeeping things moving as well, inspired by our multi-faceted,on-the-go lifestyle and the trend for personalization.

Statement Necklaces and Rings

Statement necklaces made a big splash on the fall ‘08 runways,with large collars, bibs and striking pendants leading theway. Even more impressive are stand-out rings like Sevan’sone-of-a-kind masterpieces and Garavelli’s chain over stonerings or Joseph Murray’s petal rings – large, eye-catchingbeauties that make shaking hands a privilege.


trendsfeature

1. Amrapali 18K gold autumn leaves necklace and earrings.2. J. Han 18K gold wave cuff.3. Garavelli Aldo 18K gold safari bracelet and ring with tiger’s

eye, ring with onyx.4. Arunashi 22K solid rustic cuff.


1.

2.

3.

4.

Hoops Anew

What’s old is new as designers keep reinventing the hoopearring with new versions of this classic jewellery staplethat is always appropriate for any wardrobe or hairstyle.Textured twig and bark hoops prevail from designers such asK. Brunini and Erica Molinari, while rectangles are hot fornewcomer Cynthia Gregg and her squared-off hoops.Candela brings us back to the days of nylon 45s and LPs withtheir record-inspired multi-tube hoop and Dana Davidfeatures a petal shaped hoop. Forward – facing hoops andthose with interior design are also popular Fern Freeman givesus movement inside the hoopwhile Ippolita andVicente Agoruseeye-pleasing shapes for their forward-facing drop hoops.


1. Arunashi 18K gold triple marquis earrings.2. K. Brunini Jewels 18K gold object

organique antler necklace and earrings.3. Cynthia Gregg Jewels 18K gold square-off

earrings with diamonds.4. Annie Fensterstocks for Fragments 22K and

18K white gold earrings.


Animal Kingdom

All aspects of the animal kingdom, from things with wingsto creatures from the wild, are being explored in gold.Daphna Simon brings us wearable leopards and tigers,while Maya Jewels’ Jungle Collection explores the lighterside of monkeys, elephants and striped zebras. Daniel Toledoevokes the majesty of Africa with his stunning array ofone-of-a-kind animal jewellery and objets d’art. K. Brunini’snew Spirit Animals Collection lifts the spirits of the Godsto the heights of divinity. [CJ]


trendsfeature

Elyssa Bass Designs 18K gold marquispendant, gold butterfly ring withchocolate diamond, gold anddiamond hoop earrings and bangle.


jckcoverage


JCK Toronto:Canada’s Leading Jewellery Trade ShowFrom the complimentary education programs and Design Centre showcasing signature designer

jewellery to the Fashion Show, JCK Toronto 2008 was a show to remember.

1. IDD: Harsh Shah and Alok Mehta2. Allura Int.: Linda Weckman and Matt MacDonald3. Luminox: Del Leutbecher and Patrick Stephenson4. Ion-Ray Co. Ltd.: Traci Langill

1 2

3 4 5

6 7 8

5. Master Design: Hera Arkarakas6. Caramella: Maria Fita, Candy, Muzamil Hussein, Tania Abate, Linda Santino, Nicolas Saldias7. TD Retail Card Services: Karel Feinsinger8. Butterfly Gem: Genevieve Carrisse and Stéphane Laroie

094.CJ_JCK_re.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 1:14 PM

I N T R O D U C I N G

canadianjeweller.com

Read current and past issues online.Listen to articles and podcasts.

Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.Discuss & debate on our forums.

Source & Share in our retailer-only space.Get published.

CJ_095_House ad.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:11 AM Page 44

SEPTEMBER | CANADACOLLECTIONS BY JCK

SEPTEMBER 24-25The Vancouver Trade

and Convention Centre

Vancouver, BC

Tel: (203) 840-5618

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.collectionsbyjck.ca

THE CLOTHING SHOW

SEPTEMBER 26-28Better Living Centre,Exhibition PlaceToronto, ONWeb: www.theclothingshow.com

SEPTEMBER | USAGIA JEWELRY CAREER FAIR

SEPTEMBER 12The Robert Mouawad CampusCarlsbad, CATel: (800) 421-7250 ext. 4100Web: www.careerfair.gia.edu

SEPTEMBER |INTERNATIONALJUNWEXMOSCOW 4TH

JEWELLERYWHOLESALE FAIR

SEPTEMBER 2-6Atrium of Gostiny Dvor,Moscow, RussiaTel: (781) 2320-8099Email: [email protected]: www.restec.ru

VICENZA FAIR - CHOICE

SEPTEMBER 6-10Vicenza Trade Fair,Via dell’OreficeriaVicenza, ItalyTel: 0444-969-111Web: www.vicenzafiera.it

JAA AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY

FAIR SYDNEY 2008

SEPTEMBER 7-9Sydney Exhibition Centre,Darling HarbourSydney, AustraliaWeb: www.jewelleryfair.com.au

2008 SHENZHEN

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERYFAIR

SEPTEMBER 13-17Shenzhen ConventionExhibition CenterShenzhen, ChinaTel: (852) 2561 5566Email: [email protected]: www.newayfairs.com

HONG KONG JEWELLERY

ANDWATCH FAIR

SEPTEMBER 15-19Hong Kong Conventionand Exhibition CentreHong Kong, ChinaTel: (852) 2516-2157 / 2585-6178Email: [email protected]: www.exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com

OCTOBER | CANADAFRASERVALLEY BEAD SHOW

OCTOBER 17-19Cascades Convention Center/CasinoLangley, BCEmail: [email protected]: www.fraservalleybeadshow.ca

GEM STORM 2008

OCTOBER 18-19Portsmouth Olympic HarbourKingston, ONEmail: [email protected]: www.mineralclub.ca

OCTOBER | USABUSINESS TO BUSINESS GEM

TRADE SHOW

OCTOBER 3-5Embassy Suites, Livonia/NoviFlora, MississippiTel: (601) 879-8832Email: [email protected]: www.glwshows.com

53RD ANNUAL GEM, JEWELRY,

FOSSIL &MINERAL SHOW

OCTOBER 4-5Westside Community CenterOmaha, NETel: (402) 397-9606Web: www.nerockgem.org

GEM-O-RAMA 2008 67TH

ANNUAL SHOW

OCTOBER 11-12Lapidary and Show BuildingTrona, CATel: (760) 372-5356Web:www1.iwvisp.com/tronagemclub

JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL

SHOWCASE

OCTOBER 17-20Miami Beach Convention CenterMiami Beach, FloridaTel: (561) 998-0205Email: [email protected]: www.jisshow.com

JA NEWYORK SPECIAL

DELIVERY JEWELRY SHOW

OCTOBER 26-28Javits Convention CenterNew York City, New YorkTel: (404) 584-7458Web: www.ja-newyork.com

OCTOBER |INTERNATIONALINTERGEM – INTERNATIONAL

TRADE FAIR FOR GEMS

AND GEMSTONE JEWELLERY

OCTOBER 3-6Budau Exhibition HallsIdar-Oberstein, Rheinland-Pfalz,GermanyEmail: [email protected]: www.intergem.de

ICA INTERNATIONAL GEM

SHOW 2008

OCTOBER 13-15Al Bustan Rotana HotelDubai, United Arab EmiratesTel: (212) 620-0900Email: [email protected]: www.gemstone.org

INDIAN HANDICRAFTS

AND GIFTS FAIR

OCTOBER 15-18India Expo Centre EXPO XXI,Greater Noida ExpresswayNew Delhi, DelhiTel: +(91)-(11)-26135256

NOVEMBER | CANADAJEWELLERSVIGILANCE CANADA

JEWELLERS’ BALL

NOVEMBER 8Four Seasons Hotel,Regency BallroomToronto, ONTel: 416-368-4840 / 1-800-636-9536Email: [email protected]: www.jewellersvigilance.ca

NOVEMBER | USABEAD AND JEWELRY SHOW

BY AMERICAN GEM EXPO

NOVEMBER 1-2Double Tree Hotel& Conference CenterRoswell, GAWeb: www.americangemexpo.com

NOVEMBER |INTERNATIONAL31ST ANNUALMINERALOGICAL

SEMINAR

NOVEMBER 6-7Gaiety TheatreZeehan, Tasmania, AustraliaEmail: [email protected]: www.mineral.org.au/seminar/seminar08.htm

14THMALAYSIA JEWELRY

FESTIVAL 2008

NOVEMBER 21-24Kuala Lumpur Convention CentreKuala Lumpur, MalaysiaTel: +603 2166 2833Email: [email protected]: www.jewelryshow-hka.com

96 S E P T E M B E R • O C T O B E R 2 0 0 8 CJ

upcoming eventsEvery effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.If you would like dates added, please contact [email protected].

096-097.CJ_WhatsOn.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:59 AM

what’son

DECEMBER | USANEWORLEANS CHRISTMAS

GEM, JEWELRY & BEAD SHOW

DECEMBER 5-7Pontchartrain CenterNew Orleans, LATel: 504-455-6101Web: www.aksshow.com

GREENSBORO JEWELRY EXPO

DECEMBER 6-8Greensboro Coliseum ComplexGreensboro, NCTel: 770-410-9771Email: [email protected]: www.gtshows.com

FLORIDA JEWELRY EXPO

DECEMBER 12-14Osceola Heritage ParkKissimmee, FLTel: 770-410-9771Email: [email protected]: www.gtshows.com

AMERICAN GEM EXPO

DECEMBER 13-14War Memorial AuditoriumFort Lauderdale, FLWeb: www.americangemexpo.com

BEAD AND JEWELRY SHOW

BY AMERICAN GEM EXPO

DECEMBER 13-14Sheraton Hotel, JeffersonConvention Center ComplexBirmingham, ALWeb: www.americangemexpo.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM

& JEWELRY SHOW

DECEMBER 19-21Dulles Expo & Conference CenterChantilly, VATel: (301) 294-1640Fax: (301) 294-0034Web: www.intergem.net

DECEMBER |INTERNATIONALJMA HONG KONG 2008

DECEMBER 4-7Hong Kong Convention& Exhibition CentreHong Kong, ChinaTel: (852) 2766 3002Fax: (852) 2362 3647Email: [email protected]: www.jewelryshows.org

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098-103.CJ.MrkplcClassy.Show:MarketplaceNov 9/15/08 4:56 PM



showcaseFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online.Listen to articles and podcasts.

Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.Discuss & debate on our forums.

Source & Share in our retailer-only space.Get published.

Over 125 yearsin the business of retailing jewellery

Callingall Canadian Jewellery Retailers...You’ve probably noticed a change in CanadianJeweller covers the past few issues, as they’vefeatured some of our industries top retailers. We’realways looking for new businesses to shine a spotlighton, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.

To have your store grace the cover of an upcomingCJ, and to expose your business to a whole newaudience, make sure to send an email request [email protected]

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

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We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN PRESIDENTCELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139

TOLL-FREE: 1-8777-80-JOHNS TOLL-FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3

BEST QUALITY & BIGGEST SELECTION OF SILVER JEWELLERY GUARANTEED.LIFE TIME WARRANTY, AND VERY LARGE LINE OF 10K JEWELLERY.

+ 14K BODY JEWELLERY, EARINGS, BANDS AND CHAINS.WATCH FOR OUR NEW GOLD AND SILVER CATALOGS.

IIFF WWEE DDOONN’’TT HHAAVVEE IITT.. YYOOUU DDOONN’’TT WWAANNTT IITT..SERVICE THAT YOU CAN TRUST. FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED


Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as aspot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or [email protected].

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

LET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.ca

Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:

[email protected]

WORLD’S LARGEST JEWELLERY AND WATCHREPAIR FRANCHISE ISEXPANDING IN A MALL

NEAR YOU!

Make money for yourself and take control• Own Your Own Store

• Regional Malls, High Traffic• Low Inventory Costs

• 23 Year Proven Record• No Exp. Nec. Full Training

Tel.: (800) 359-0407Email: [email protected]: www.fastfix.com



MO I S S A N I T E C A N A DAR e f l e c t t h e b r i l l i a n c e o f y o u r l i f e

~With more brilliance and luster than any popular

gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite.

~Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966

215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9



*CATALOGUE AVAILABLE*We are no longer just a cast ing house: we wil l take your order

from idea to f in ished product, inc luding diamonds and otherstones. (Cal l our tol l-free number or fax us for free est imates)

In stock settings and mounts.

SS, 10K, 14K,18K, 19K, 22K, Specializing inPLATINUM AND

19 K ULTRA WHITEGOLD CASTING

215 Victoria St., Suite B3Toronto, ON M5B 1T9Tel: (416) 366-4046Fax: (416) 366-5162

Toll Free: 1-877-365-5552Email: [email protected]

www.readymounts.com

Northam Diamond Inc.

A Cut Above the Rest“30 YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE”

YOUR #1 SOURCE OF SUPPLY

Importers & Wholesale suppliers specializing in Fine Make & Ideal Cuts. LoosePolished Diamonds in all shapes & sizes from .01CT to 5.00 CTS,

Fancy colours & Canadian DiamondsCanadamark – Brand: Arctic Fox Diamond27 Queen Street East, Suite 1004, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 2M6

Tel: (416) 861-1414 Fax: (416) 861-1581 • 1-800-941-GEMS email: [email protected] www.northamdiamonds.com

1515 PORTAGE AVENUE, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, CANADA R3G 0W7TTee ll:: ((220044 )) 778899--99662200

EEmmaa ii ll :: sstteewwbbnnzz11@@mmttss ..nneett

QUALITY service and attention to detail.• 6 Highly Qualified Technicians• Large Inventory of Parts and Access to all

the Major Supply HousesREPAIRS to fine Watches, Quartz andMechanical, Restoration of Pocket Watches.

STEWARTS HOROLOGY


VERRAGIOSales Representative Wanted

Verragio, manufacturer of platinum,gold and palladium engagement

rings and wedding bands, is seekinga sales representative for Easternand Western Canadian territories.Must have solid relationships withkey independent accounts anddemonstrated success in new

account acquisition. Luxury brandedproduct experience preferred.

Please email resumes [email protected].

AGEN

TS REP

S WAN

TED



classified

If you are looking for a steady career in jewellery industry and sincere business

commitment, then we are the right company foryour advancement. We are looking for

serious travellers sales reps for all provinces ofCanada. No past experience does not disqualifyyou for the position. Please fax your resume or

email Dhiren at [email protected] (salary and commission negotiable).AG

ENTS

REP

S WAN

TED

WE BUY BROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS

Immediate Payment /Established 1988J.P.Smith 21 Dundas Square Suite 1101Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel: 888 JPS9747 email: [email protected]

FOR SA

LE


For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Michele Aubie Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6119 or [email protected].

The Diamonds You Need. In Stock. Overnight.

We carry finely cut diamonds rangingfrom .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of shapes including round brilliant, princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart, pear, marquise and oval.

Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.

Selection, Service and Valuea family tradition since 1955

www.wmolldiamonds.comPhone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738

21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

INYOURNAME

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For SaleSelling well established jewelry retail and repair

business in SW Ontario for over 50 years.Includes inventory, showcases, tools. Building includes commercial space and rental units. Owner retiring.

Serious inquiries only. Nadia at 905-425-0840.

FOR SA

LE

Experienced JewellerJeweller over 20 years of experience. Custom work, repairs, polishing and

specializing in diamond setting. Call Vince at 416-748-1823.

SERV

ICES


Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.

Get published.



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on any product advertised in this issue

SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

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3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

2. Use this quick reference list below to find out its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

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FAX NOW TO: 1-888-849-0155 or (416) 703-6392 | OR MAIL CARD TODAY TO: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106 Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

Reserved exclusively for retailers

Siffari - Signature Collection 2 101

Wenger - Swiss 3 102

Rio Tinto Diamonds 4-5 103

HRA Diamonds - Canadian Rocks 6-7 104

Diamonds Direct - Rare and Precious Gems 8 105

GS Laboratories 9 106

Gee ’N Gee Importers 11 107

Byrex Gems Inc. 13 108

TD Merchant Services 15 109

Siffari - Quartz Collection 16 110

MDL Diamonds - Canadian Eskimo Diamonds 16 111

GS Laboratories - Firetrace 16 112

Jewellers Mutual 17 113

Mirage - Eternity Band 18 114

Diamonds Direct - Pink Diamonds 18 115

Gee ’N Gee Importers - Men’s Jewellery Line 18 116

MDL Diamonds 19 117

Pandora - Mix and Match 20 118

Regal - Hallmark of Quality 20 119

Rio Tinto Diamonds 20 120

Diamonds Direct - Rare and Precious Gems 21 121

Rotary - Swiss Watch 23 122

Pandora 25 123

Nova Diamonds Inc. 28 124

BaselWorld - Watch and Jewellery Show 29 125

Open Blue Networks 31 126

Castaldo VLT Canada 33 127

Importex 33 128

G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) 35 129

Sanghavi Diamonds 41 130

MCD Pearls 43 131

Rousseau Canada Inc. 43 132

JVC Jewellers’ Ball 51 133

Rebecca Donna Oro 54-55 134

Noble Gift Packaging 80-81 135

Jewels by Koby 97 136

Regal Diamonds 106-107 137

Mirage Creations 108 138

FREEWhich category best describes yourbusiness classification?� Education� Retailer�Manufacturer�Wholesaler� Importer� Designer� Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)� Other __________________________________

Number of employees at your location� 1-3 � 4-8 � 9-12 13+

Number of locations ____________________

Selling area of your store� under 1,000 sq. ft. � 1,001 to 3,000 sq. ft.� 3,001 to 5,000 sq. ft. � over 5,000 sq. ft.

Approximate annual sales volume� under $500,000� $500,000 to $1 million� $1 million to $5 million� $5 million to $10 million� $10 million to $20 million� over $20 million

Categories you personally manage� Retailer � Designer� Gemologist � Supplier�Manufacturer� Other __________________________

104.CJ_FaxBack.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:54 AM

lastword


“Nothing is softer or more flexible than

Water, yet nothing can resist it.

A pragmatic philosophy that retailers can use in their everyday business practicesand a fitting comment on this “flexible” mesh-backed 345.87 cabochon-cut labradorite in 18-karat white gold.

Courtesy of Myles Mindham Fine Jewellery.

”LAO TZ U O N C E W ROT E:

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REGAL IMPORTS

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DIAMOND MARGINS ARE ATTAINED BY KNOWLEDGE AND CREATIVITY NOT BY CONFORMITY AND IMITATION

REGAL IMPORTS EMPOWERING RETAILERS TO RISE ABOVE THE COMPETITION

1.800.863.2621 T. 604.263.2621 F. 604.263.4008www.regalimports.ltd.com

The magic is in you

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canadian jeweller magazine september october 2008

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