canadian jeweller magazine aprilmay 2009

canadian jewellermagazine

www.canadianjeweller.com

over125 yearsin the business of retailing jewellery

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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APRIL/MAY 2009

A SuperStrategy Frank Damiani of Damiani Jewellers

First ImpressionsCreating winning window displays

TimelessWhat’s old is new again in watches

Selling PermanenceThe enduring value of gold

Sparkle and ShineAGTA Spectrum Award winners

discuss gemstone trends

Exclusive:A discussion with Ontario’s

Diamond Sector Unit

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2010Buyers’Guide

For all advertising informationplease email: [email protected]: 1-888-358-8186Registration closes July 27, 2009.

Canadian Jeweller’s Buyers’ Guide is Moving

Since its inception, the Canadian Jeweller Buyers’ Guide has become an invaluable source of information forindustry members across the country. The 2010 Buyers’ Guide will soon be here, which means it’s time foryou to get your company noticed.

Look for it in our September issue.

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800-558-6411 • [email protected]

Frank Damiani, owner of Damiani Jewellers, Ltd.Woodbridge, Ontario

Peopleyou can count on.“My dad started this business more

than 50 years ago and always said that

being a jeweller is a privilege because

we are in the business of helping

people celebrate their special occasions.

Jewelers Mutual is there to help make

sure we continue to do just that.”

— Frank DamianiDamiani Jewellers, Ltd.Woodbridge, Ontario

Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.

E N D O R S E D E X C L U S I V E L Y B Y

NOW IN QUÉBEC

Coverageyou can count on.“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to

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007.CJ Jewelers Mutual Mar23.indd 1 3/25/09 5:07:29 PM

www.jewelersmutual.com

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EstablishEd 1879 april/May 2009 • vol. 130, no. 2

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | [email protected]

bryan soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | [email protected] Nikki Yeh Associate Editor | [email protected]

Paul aguirre Editorial Assistant | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] leslie Ross Designer | [email protected]

Christine ager-smyth Production Manager | [email protected]

Melanie seth Accounting and Administration | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs Davide Bagnarol, Glen Beres, Philip Feder, Robin Gambhir, Sarah B. Hood, Daniel Marquez, Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler, Mireille Theriault

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

Melissa badr

Michele aubie

head Office

Montreal Office

InTeRnaTIonal SaleS ManaGeR/MaRkeTPlace

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

aDVeRTISInG SaleS

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


cIRculaTIon ManaGeR

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6118 fax (416) 703-6392


RecePTIon

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6119 fax (416) 703-6392


60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Toronto, ontario, M4W 3B8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

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Montreal, Quebec, H2n 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $35; two years, $45; three years $55. united States — one year, uS$44. Foreign — one year uS$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide

issues.) 8% P.S.T. for newfoundland, new Brunswick and nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscrip-

tions, $17.50 per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,

Suite 1106, Toronto, on canada M4W 3B8

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada Post canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement no. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. no portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the editor, canadian

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 74

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table of

Contents

30 Precious Things Grow in Ontario The emergence of Ontario’s diamond industry.

32 Timeless Watch trends continue to be reinvented in line with the economy.

46 A Super Strategy An interview with Damiani Jewellers’ Frank Damiani.

52 Selling Permanence Gold is opulent, desired and set to withstand the trails of time.

56 First Impressions How to create winning window displays.

60 Sparkle and Shine A review of gemstone trends emerging from the AGTA Spectrum Awards.

April/May

Features

6046

52

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table of

ContentsApril/May

Departments

68

4214 Director’s Note

16 Product Showcase

20 Who’s News Stuller announces leadership shuffle; supermodel donates timepiece; OMEGA celebrates Vancouver 2010.

22 For The Record De Beers launches Forevermark; Zales closes 115 stores; Swarovski makes Oscars sparkle; Harry Winston opens Dubai boutique.

27 Stock Index

28 Mining News Canadian Chamber launches mining network; Rio Tinto announces earnings increase.

36 Face Value Vintage jewellery is making its way out of hiding and onto the market.

38 Market Watch Examining the coloured gem trends to meet your store’s needs.

42 Company Profile Mirage Creations.

64 Designer Profile Raana Ferdows.

68 Star Watch Stunning pieces adorn music glitterati this award season.

70 Editorial Board

74 Fax Back

76 Showcase

78 Marketplace

82 Last Word

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PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM

Solid gold, sterling silver, and precious stones • U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved

Collect, combine and create your own unique expression. LovePods is a new collection of jewelry made from 18K gold enhanced with genuine gemstones.

LIFE HAS ITS MOMENTS.. .

. . .MAKE THEM UNFORGETTABLE

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director’snote Ph

oto:

Dav

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Bagn

oral

What is the difference between a shopper and customer? In marketing- speak, a shopper is defi ned as a person who is engaged in the act of, oddly enough, shopping. These are the fresh faces that look through your brochures, visit your website, and, if their interest is properly piqued, move on to scrutinize your displays and showcases for the very fi rst time. Customers, meanwhile, are those valued individuals who have made repeat purchases at your store (and hopefully intend to keep up with the tradition). During economic unrest, many retailers tend to focus on drumming up new business. However, when fi nancial times get tough, your efforts are better served by developing a solid strategy that is intended to retain the loyalty of the customers you already have. A key factor in keeping your customers is providing them with that in-store experience they cannot get anywhere else. This is achieved primarily through service, merchandising mix, branding and some other intangibles that unite to create the “feeling” they get when they walk through your door. So what are your customers experiencing? The best way to fi nd out is to simply ask them. Most won’t be shy about telling you what they love about your store, and with a little prodding, you can get them to express what needs improvement as well. Once you’ve got a solid understanding of all that, you’ll be prepared to take the next step, which is shifting focus once again as you conceive of a plan to convert those shoppers into customers.

To your success,

Bryan SorokaDirector, Editorial & Communications

Attention All Shoppers!

Bryan Soroka

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The heart & soul of wedding bands

1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4 Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: [email protected]

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productshowcase

LovePods Collection SparklesThe PANDORA LovePods collection introduces a decadent new range of fine jewellery made from 18K gold, enhanced with coloured gemstones. LovePods is a series of beautifully-created rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. The Danish company’s collection lets consumers combine, unfold and bloom as they create an expression that is effortlessly unique. For more information, write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

Selling with Security Keep your profits from walking out the door! Jewelers Mutual’s online security course, Selling with Security, demonstrates how retail store associates can incorporate three basic security habits into their selling techniques; key habits worth learning. The course will cover the topics: “Meet and Greet;” “One on One;” and “Turn the Key” — all designed to help reduce retail losses at your store. Register online with Jewelers Mutual or call 800-558-6411. For more information, write 112 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

The Bouquet of LoveThe astonishing new floral collection by Nova Diamonds represents the blooming relationships between partners in love. With a total of 3.09 carats set in the flower ring, and 6.15 carats in the earrings, all Nova jewellery is set in 18-karat gold, and finished to the highest level of handcrafted workmanship possible. Nova Diamonds specializes in a vast array of loose stones and high-end finished jewellery, as well as custom pieces to make any occasion shine. For more information, write 113 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

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productshowcase

Diamond Hoops Set the TrendThis Diamond Hoop is a stunning testament to Mirage Creations’ new hallmark: “Exceptional Jewellery.” The Mirage diamond hoop collection covers a wide range of styles and carat weights. Basic models start at just 0.25ctw. There’s also optimal customization available to customers, as special orders can be realized and created from concept to delivery in under two weeks. All items are individually made from original resins to achieve a high-quality finish. For more information, write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

A Ring is Forever For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader. As a third generation jeweller, the brand has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring decadent coloured metals with unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality and love. Each ring produced at Atlantic is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery. For that extra special touch, no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 116 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

GIA Reports and Grading SystemsGIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write 117 on the Free Info Card on page 74.

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We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new Mens Line - a collection of over 45 unique styles. Each design is inspired by the virtues of strength, boldness, distinction, and success, while remaining understated and contemporary.

The menThe men’s collection is available in 14K or 19K, white and yellow gold. Some of these new styles feature two tone white and 19k rose gold in a copper finish, creating a very distinct effect.

Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost regard to quality. As well, our diamonds are selected fselected from only the best in colour, cut and clarity.

For more than three decades we have striven to create unique pieces of unparalleled craftsmanship.

Now available for men.

Please call to order our new catalogue.

pour hommepour homme

geengee.com toll free: 1.800.663.0177

400 - 736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C., V6Z1G3 Telephone: 604.684.1131

[email protected]

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4.75 CT

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Exceptional Diamond Jewellery &Large Selection Of Loose Diamonds

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

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fax:416-868-0666

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Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.

Supermodel Donates Timepiece to Aspen Nonprofi tsAspen Jewelry and Watches recently promoted an aggressive and anticipated three-day worldwide launch of Aspen One, its fi rst luxury timepiece. The limited edition Swiss-made timepiece retails for US$38,900, and is said to pay tribute to Aspen’s rich heritage and pay homage to Aspen Mountain. To mark the occasion, a gala launch was held at The Aspen Mountain Club where the Company honoured model and entrepreneur Elle Macpherson with the diamond version of Aspen One, retailing at US$49,900. In return, Elle presented the watch as a donation to representatives of two area nonprofi ts: Challenge Aspen and Aspen Valley Ski and Snowboard Club. “The proceeds from this watch will scholarship more than 50 families with disabilities to enjoy Challenge Aspen’s winter and summer programs. Elle and Rene [van Ass, CEO of Aspen Jewelry and Watches] have truly helped us take the ‘Dis out of Disability’ for some very special young people,” noted representatives from the organization. Another watch will be given to the Quality of Life Foundation, based in the Netherlands, which has already raised more than $10 million for children’s cancer research. The new timepiece has a multitude of design features that represent the region including a specially-designed compass that shows a skier’s position on Aspen Mountain, and is offered in four-colour combinations of 18 kt white or rose gold.white or rose gold.

Elle Macpherson and Rene van Ass

TIG Welcomes New Marketing CoordinatorTIG, sister company to Suberi Brothers, is happy to welcome Lindsay Morrison as their new Marketing Coordinator. Ms. Morrison will develop and manage all aspects of TIG’s marketing program for its Aimée, Noor, and Diamond Sensations lines. This will also include all branding and advertising initiatives, as well as the company’s customer outreach programs. Steve Turac, Managing Director notes, “We’re very excited to welcome Lindsay onboard as our fi rst in-house marketing hire. I truly believe that the road to success depends on the application of strong marketing techniques to build the brand equity of our business. Our goal is to grow our brands whereby we become more sought after in the eyes of the consumer.” Lindsay’s experience is impressive, as she has worked with household names such as renowned chef Jamie Oliver and Cadbury Schweppes. She notes that she hopes to help expand TIG’s brand presence in the market with a well-executed and innovative marketing plan. TIG is based out of Montreal and carries four different lines of branded diamond jewellery including; Aimée, Noor, Diamond Sensations and Gabrielle.

Jim Leng resigns from Rio TintoRio Tinto has announced that Jim Leng, a non-executive Director, has resigned from the Boards with immediate effect and will therefore not take up the post of Chairman of the Boards in April as previously planned. As a result, Rio Tinto’s current Chairman, Paul Skinner, has agreed to remain as Chairman until mid-2009, by which time it is anticipated that a successor will be appointed. The process to appoint a new Chairman is currently underway.

Fred Signs Kate Moss to Star in Next Campaign Fred, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned jewellery brand, has singed supermodel Kate Moss to appear alongside current spokesperson Melvil Poupaud, a rising French actor, modelling the brand’s top-selling “Force 10” collection. The campaign was shot by famed photographer Patrick Demarchelier in Paris last November, each appearing in separate shots. In a new twist, the duo will also model pieces from the house’s fi ne jewellery line, a fi rst for Fred. Moss replaces Parisian actress Audrey Marnay. The new ads are set to debut in April in Fred’s core markets, especially Europe, Asia and the Middle East, and in a range of outlets in France.

Kate Moss

Lindsay Morrison

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who’snews

Stuller Announces Leadership ChangesStuller, Inc. has recently announced new leadership changes in response to the planned retirement of Dr. Charles D. “Chuck” Lein, President and Chief Operating Offi cer (COO), effective at the end of January. The company executive management team will restructure Dr. Lein’s function into two separate positions: Jay Jackson, Stuller’s current executive Vice President of Supply Chain, will assume the role of COO, and Matthew Stuller will return to daily activities and temporarily assume the role of President. Jackson has more than 13 years of experience with Stuller and previously enjoyed a 30-year career at Searsin its product services division. “With this transition in key leadership roles, we are positioned to maintain our aggressive growth strategies,” says Stuller. “We will always be the fastest, most reliable supplier of high-quality, value-added products and business solutions for the jewellery industry.”

Dr. Charles LeinJay Jackson

Matthew Stuller

OMEGA Celebrates One Year to Vancouver 2010OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart was recently at a ceremony to mark one year to go in the countdown to the opening ceremony of the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games as the Company will be serving as Offi cial Olympic Timekeeper for the 24th time. He was joined by Swatchgroup CEO Nick Hayek Jr., International Olympic Committee President Jacques Rogge and John Furlong, CEO of the Vancouver Organizing Committee for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games (VANOC). The event was complete with an OMEGA Countdown Clock that reached exactly 365 days, 0 hours, 0 minutes and 0 seconds before event goers cheered in anticipation. Mr. Rogge notes that OMEGA has been pivotal in the development of sports timekeeping. Mr. Hayek also presented John Furlong with a ceremonial version of the Olympic bell that is used to announce the fi nal lap in long competitions. OMEGA has also released two special limited edition watches to commemorate the milestone. The OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition is being produced in 41mm and 36.25mm versions, each in a release of numbered pieces and featuring the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 2500. The caseback is embossed with the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games logo, which features ‘Ilanaak,’ the symbol of the Games, and engraved with the Limited Edition number, which is limited to only 2,010 pieces globally and available now for $4,500 across Canada.

From left John Furlong, Stephen Urquhart, Nick Hayek Jr, Jacques Rogge.

who’s

OMEGA Limited Edition Seamaster Diver 300m Vancouver 2010 watch.

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news | trends | eventsPsalm 23 Jewelry Partners with Non-Profit for Growing Retail NetworkPsalm 23 Jewelry has teamed up with a local non-profit organization, OPARC, to assemble and package their pieces by the well-trained staff from the organization. OPARC’s mission is to enable people with disabilities to achieve their full potential. This partnership comes after Psalm 23 Jewelry’s expansion to bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings and the simultaneous growth of a national retail network that created a need for a larger staff, which could handle larger quantities in a timely manner. “We are blessed to have formed a relationship with OPARC. Our relationship with them has enabled us to provide adults with disabilities and vocational barriers with additional employment opportunities in the areas of jewellery assembly and packaging,” noted Laura Kramer, President of Psalm 23. Original plans to outsource to foreign countries and outlying areas were decided against in favour of OPARC’s ability to locally produce the Sterling Silver and Swarovski crystal jewellery and the corporation’s dedication to be able to give back to their local community.

JCK Vegas Has New ConfidenceOrganizers of the upcoming JCK Las Vegas show in May have announced new initiatives aimed at assisting with exhibitor costs, and making it easier for retailers to purchase products. In addition to these initiatives, the organization has invested money and resources to host more than 1,500 “VIP” buyers. Organizers have also started a loyalty program, issuing merchandise credits of up to $1,000 per store for retailers who attend each year. JCK also debuted a new website to allow manufacturers to upload up to 500 images of their product lines, enabling buyers to plan spending priorities and interests by preview products ahead of time. “This year in particular, we are looking to make the decision to come to JCK an easy one,” commented Yancy Weinrich, Industry Vice President for JCK Events. “We know that making the commitment to come can be a complex decision and our goal is to eliminate as many concerns as possible. Now more than ever, we want to encourage the industry to utilize its collective wisdom to ensure future success. The JCK Show in Las Vegas intends on

providing the best platform for the global jewellery industry to do so.” There’s also an educational component from May 28 and 29 addressing business topics to help retailers adapt their businesses, including how to recession-proof investment strategies and building brand awareness while improving sales.

GIA India Holds Bangalore CourseThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently announced a project in collaboration with the South India Jewellery Show 2009 (SIJS) to offer seminars and a special, one-time course for its Accredited Jewelry Professional (AJP) diploma for the first time. The course will take place over March 23 to 27 in Bangalore at the Hotel Grand Ashoka. According to Nirupa Bhatt of GIA India, a key objective is to increase educational courses in gem and jewellery manufacturing to other regions of the world where they can be equally important and useful. The course will be an intensive five-day program with simple and short modules designed to build product knowledge while increasing business with proven retail sales techniques.

Forevermark Sees Hong Kong Launch of Precious CollectionForevermark, a diamond brand from the De Beers Group, has unveiled the Forevermark Precious Collection in its worldwide debut in Hong Kong. The unique collection offers designs from legendary names such as supermodel Alek Wek, graphic designer Alan Chan, fashion modernist Limi Yamamoto, Oscars jewellery designer Mona Mehta and couturier Tarun Tahiliani. The Forevermark Precious Collection showcases each contributor’s personal interpretation of “Precious” using Forevermark diamonds or in words. The collection shows impressive range from traditional cascades of diamonds and delicate Asian calligraphy through to pop art and urban ‘rock-chic’ styles. “Behind every Forevermark diamond is a precious story. Since the beginning of time, diamonds have inspired countless myths, tales and legends. In today’s world, this may be a story of personal celebration, love pledged, a commitment made, the arrival of a child into the world, an anniversary, enduring love or a triumph at work. Whatever the story, it will be one that is always intensely personal and always unique — no two stories are the same; just as no two Forevermark,” noted Francois Delage, CEO of Forevermark. Only a select group of Master Diamantaires are eligible to cut and polish Forevermark diamonds. Every Forevermark diamond is said to be responsibly sourced and over and above the 4Cs. Following its tour of Hong Kong, the collection will exhibit in Beijing and Tokyo later this year.

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fortherecord

Zales Jewelers Announces Store Closures Zale Corp., a major retailer in U.S. and Canadian malls with outlets like Peoples Jewellers and Mappins Jewellers, has announced the closure of 115 stores at the end of their current leases and 245 job cuts in a drastic cost-reduction plan. The Company also announced Q2 revenues, citing an 18% drop in revenue, and will cut capital spending by 65% going forward. Furthermore, the jeweller plans to reduce its debt by $40 million by fiscal year end in July. It also noted that the addition of Canadian and Puerto Rican assets give the Company flexibility and sufficient liquidity. In Q2, the Company posted a net loss of $0.74 per share with quarterly sales falling 17.9% to $679.4 million, with same-store earnings down 18.1%. The Company stated it will continue its focus on financial thoroughness and liquidity during the current economic environment. With inventory productivity a priority, merchandise inventories at January 31, 2009 were approximately $100 million lower than the prior year.

Rio Tinto Donates to the Australian Bushfires and FloodsRio Tinto Australia made an immediate contribution to the Victorian bushfire appeal of $100,000 on Monday, February 9, 2009, two days after news broke of the Australian crises. The Group increased its donation shortly thereafter to a total of $500,000. In addition, Rio Tinto Alcan and Rio Tinto Coal Australia have, between them, committed $250,000 to the Queensland flood appeal.

Stephen Webster’s Aggressive 2009 PlanStephen Webster Ltd., the luxury jewellery brand based in the UK, has revealed an aggressive expansion and advertising plan for 2009. A cornerstone of this new plan is the grand opening of a flagship store in London’s prestigious Mayfair district, set for a May launch. The store is set to replace the existing Duke Street boutique and will retail both fine and silver jewellery collections for men and women. The store is also said to reflect Webster’s design aesthetic: glamorous and opulent with a hint of ‘rock and roll glamour.’ To coincide with the opening, the Company will also launch a new advertising campaign

in April featuring musical artist Christina Aguilera, who was the face of the Spring 2008 campaign. As CJ previous reported, Stephen Webster is currently working on a new women’s and men’s collection for Garrard to be launched as a “guest designer” at the end of the year.

Harry Winston Opens Watch Boutique in DubaiHarry Winston recently opened its first watch boutique in Dubai. Located at the newly opened Atlantis Hotel, the boutique

offers pieces ranging from the Harry Winston Avenue collection to diamond jewellery watches. This spring, the boutique will also carry a greater variety of Harry Winston collections, including the classic Winston Cluster, Sunflower, and Loop. “Harry Winston salons are located in the world’s finest shopping destinations. We are delighted to showcase Harry Winston’s exquisite collections in such an outstanding setting,” said Thomas J. O’Neill, CEO of Harry Winston.

Romain Jerome Develops New Day&Night Line and Titanic-inspired TimepiecesThe Day&Night concept, a timepiece that does not tell the time, proved to be quite the success as Romain Jerome has developed a new limited edition of nine timepieces with hands. Day&Night, launched at Baselworld in 2008, brought a new system of time measurement based on the sequential operation of two Tourbillons that divided the temporal world into two segments: day versus night. The new edition of Day&Night called the Spiral, changes tack and symbolizes time by a spiral applied on its dial. It has a steel and titanium case with 46mm diameter. The strap is also full Hornback crocodile leather, and the bezel uses stabilized oxidized steel from the Titanic, and comes with a notarized certificate to authenticate the origin of the materials used. The Company also recently introduced a skeleton high-end timepiece interpretation of the chronograph Tourbillon as part of the Titanic-DNA collection using the same reclaimed materials from the wreckage. The collection offers timepieces inspired and created in tribute to the Titanic. The Titanic-DNA rusted steel T-oxy III Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon has a diameter of 50mm-53mm including the screw-in crown — it features interchangeable horns and a push button. The skeleton dial is integrating various material (brass, black or, steel, pink gold 5N) mixing mat velvet finish, satin and shot-blasted finish for the Roman numeral XII. The Tourbillon carriage and the chronometry engine are magnified by the use of pink gold 5N.

The Day&Night Spiral . Titanic-DNA rusted steel T-oxy III Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon.

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GIA Launches New Online Accredited Jewellery Professional ProgramThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has unveiled a new multimedia format for its distance learning courses in gemology and jewellery sales. GIA is offering this new education technology, known as “eLearning,” to students effective immediately for its Accredited Jewelry Professional (AJP) diploma program. The course features video for hands-on demonstrations, interviews with experts, instructor lectures and “see it for yourself ” segments. It uses voice capabilities to give proper pronunciation and explanations from specialists. According to the GIA, this new course takes advantage of the latest Web-based applications to create a multifaceted learning experience that integrates text and images with video, audio, slideshows, animations and interviews. Interested applicants can view an in-depth demonstration on the GIA’s website.

CIBJO Presents the World Jewellery Confederation Educational FoundationCIBJO President Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri has announced the newly established World Jewellery Confederation Educational Foundation (WJCEF), at the annual meeting of the NGO Committee of the United Nation’s

Economicand Social Council (ECOSOC) in New York. CIBJO is the international jewellery industry’s only official representative within ECOSOC and the United Nations. WJCEF is described as a joint initiative of CIBJO together and the United Nations to promote the principles of corporate social responsibility and ethics throughout the jewellery and gemstone industries. The program also aims to support grassroots jewellery business initiatives that enhance sustainable economic and social development. A team of experts is putting the final touches to an educational programme that will provide training on a worldwide basis based on individual economic situations.

SJTA Spring Show in Georgia The Southern Jewelry Travelers Association (SJTA) Show held their annual spring show in Atlanta, Georgia from February 28 to March 2, with Matthew Stuller, CEO of Stuller Inc., as a featured guest at an educational forum about staying relevant and ahead of the retail game in 2009. The roundtable of panelists included such industry greats as David Peters, Jewelers of America; Doug Kerns, Gemvision; Linus Drogs, AU Enterprises/Palladium Alliance International and Terry Chandler, Diamond Council of America. The Association

is America’s oldest association for independent jewellery representatives with over 50 years of show experience. “I feel privileged to take part in this major international industry event,” says Stuller. “Similar to our business, SJTA is built on not only helping retail jewellers shape their stores but also serving as a valuable resource in challenging times.” Each year, the bi-annual Atlanta Jewelry Show welcomes jewellers from all over the country with over 800 booths on display, allowing independent jewellers to sit down with sales reps in a relaxed environment, priding itself on the show’s “Southern Hospitality.”

Delays for GEMTECGEMTEC - Trade Fair for Jewellery and Gemstone Technology, which was initially planned to open in June 2009 has been postponed due to delays in the completion of the new exhibition hall because of the extreme weather conditions in December and January. Organizers have also revealed the new technology fair GEMTEC will go ahead as numerous companies, including industry leaders, indicated interest in exhibiting. This comes off the success of the previous technology forum and it is slated again for INTERGEM 2009 where visitors can see the latest generation of jewellery and gemstone technology. The GEMTEC will open for the first time from May 28 to 30, 2010.

Dubai to House World’s Finest Pearls The United Arab Emirates will soon be home to a unique selection of pearls at Dubai’s first pearl tender, including Paspaley’s Queen Mother pearl strand. Some of the world’s rarest and most sought-after natural and cultured pearls were offered prior to the inaugural World Pearl Forum, a conference dedicated to the production, business, design, marketing and certification of the global pearl sector, in a private tender of the Dubai Pearl Exchange in February. Paspaley Pearling in Australia, Robert Wan Tahiti in French Polynesia, Jewelmer International Corporation in the Philippines and Cogent Trading in Hong Kong gathered at the meeting. “This pearl tender will enable us to showcase our very finest pieces to a truly international audience.” said Nicholas Paspaley, chairman of Paspaley Pearling.

Stuller debuts Color Stories 2009Stuller, Inc. has released Color Stories 2009, a trend book highlighting the Company’s “colour centric” approach to selling gemstones. The book is designed to show retailers the important and potentially beneficial aspects of promoting gemstones by colour instead of by birthstone. “The age of colour is here. And if you want to increase your market share, you’re going to have to improve your show line and adopt a ‘color-centric’ marketing message,” says Ramona Gautreaux, diamond and gemstone marketing director. The main trends are: The Power of Nature, based on responsibility, sustainability and the creation of renewable, eco-friendly products; The Global Village, offering a colour palette rich with cultural connections; and Nostalgia, reflecting post-war music, art, politics and attitudes of the 1940s and 50s. The book is available for a nominal fee, or retailers can visit the Company’s website to review the online version.

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Christie’s 100ct Diamond Named ‘The Shizuka Diamond’In its Spring 2008 jewellery sale, a rare shield-shaped F colour, VVS1 diamond of 101.27 carats sold for US$6,211,249 at Christie’s Hong Kong and has recently been named The Shizuka Diamond by its new owner as a gift to his wife. It is the largest colourless diamond ever sold at auction in Asia. Mounted into a tiara for its sale at Christie’s in May 2008, it was the leading highlight of the auction season. It’s been noted that the sale of such a rare gem in Asia rather than New York or Geneva is a testament to the vibrant Asian market and the growing number of collectors in the region. Cut from a daunting 460 carat rough to 101.27 carats, its unusual modified shield shape flaunts 92 brilliant facets. The Report from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certifies that it is F colour together with the highest standard for polish and symmetry, both rated Excellent, a testament to the skill of its cutters.

Platinum Guild International Sponsors JCK Jewelers Choice AwardsPlatinum Guild International (PGI) announced the winners in the “Platinum Jewelry” categories at the 2nd annual JCK Jewelers Choice Awards 2008. The competition is the first to conduct all judging via the Internet, allowing retailers to serve as the official judges. Categories included “Platinum under $10,000,” with winner Danhov; “Platinum over $10,000,” with winner Erica Courtney; and “Platinum 3-Ring Bridal Set,” with winner Durnell. These allowed designers a platform to enter their bridal and fashion designs at a range of price points. An astounding 319 entries and over 15,635 votes were tallied — a 40% increase from the previous year. PGI is also a major supporter of the Platinum jewellery industry through various trade and communications channels, and is dedicated to promoting Platinum and its pure, rare and eternal qualities to

the jewellery trade. As Canadian Jeweller previously mentioned, platinum sales are set to be strong in 2009.

Platinum Jewellery Market to Grow in 2009 in ChinaJohnson Matthey, an authority on the platinum industry, noted that platinum demand for jewellery use in China (largest market for platinum jewellery for nine years running) was estimated at around 0.76 million ounces, accounting for 68% of the global total of 1.12 million ounces in 2008. China’s platinum jewellery market experienced challenges in 2008, mainly due to widely fluctuating platinum prices. Nevertheless, with platinum prices falling in the second half of 2008, the platinum market is expected to see new opportunities in 2009, said Platinum Guild International (PGI), a global organization dedicated to promoting platinum jewellery. According to statistics from the Shanghai Gold Exchange, platinum purchases

increased 16% year-on-year in 2008. In addition, 2009 seems promising due to stable market prices, a booming wedding market and efforts by retailers and the industry, according to PGI.

Armin Storm Watches Now Distributed in North AmericaArmin Storm watches are available in the United States and Canada only in select trade stores and distributed by Totally Worth It, headquarters in New York City, and most recently credited with the commercial turnaround of Roger Dubuis in North America. The timepieces, with hand-skeletonized and engraved movements, are true in the high-end segment and are all produced in strictly limited editions. Recently, an entire movement structure for a Regulator with retrograde date display was developed in its own Swiss ateliers and watches are said to give added value deserve and require profound product knowledge by the sales force and maximum customer care.

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Swarovski’s Cascading Crystal Curtain Sparkles at 81st OscarsAttendees at the 81st Annual Academy Awards, along with the 36.3 million at-home viewers, were awed at the spectacular set design. Created by architect David Rockwell, the stage was framed with a three-ton, 60-foot tall custom-designed Swarovski crystal curtain sparkling with over 100,000 crystals flown-in especially from Austria. This illuminating tapestry of cascading crystal and light served as backdrop for one of the highest-rated Oscar telecasts in years with host Hugh Jackman and glimpses of Hollywood’s biggest stars. Rockwell noted:

“We could not think of a better partner than Swarovski to fulfill our vision of not just a curtain, but a frame to capture all the elegance, excitement and high-fashion that is the Academy Awards. We have collaborated with Swarovski many times and the result is always breathtaking. This is yet another spectacular centerpiece.” People can also view exclusive behind the scenes footage of the creation of the Crystal Curtain on Swarovski’s website.

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Precious Metals

stock indexCIBJO Announces 2009 Congress in IstanbulCIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, announced that the 2009 Congress will take place in Istanbul, Turkey, from May 3 to May 5 in the historic Çira “This congress will be held during what most believe is undoubtedly the most severe crisis to have hit the world economy in the past 80 years,” said CIBJO President Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri. “The issues that we will be discussing are of critical importance to our industry, which currently is searching for solutions to sustain itself during the downturn, so that it is positioned to emerge strongly when the markets begin to recover.” The annual CIBJO Congress serves as the venue for the meeting of the World Jewellery Confederation’s General Assembly, which is the organization’s primary decision-making body. A key event will be the roll out of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation, a body created by CIBJO and the United Nations, dedicated to formulating and delivering training programs for all sectors of the world industry about corporate responsibility principles and practices in the jewellery business.

Private Ring Collection Exhibits in London in MayRoman to Renaissance, an exhibition devoted to a private collection of 35 rings dating from 300 to 1600 AD, will be staged by the Paris gallery Les Enluminures at the London dealer Wartski from May 12 to May 22. The collection comprises fine examples of rings from the Merovingian, Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance periods including marriage rings, seal rings, stirrup rings, tart mould rings, iconographic rings, merchant rings and gemstone rings. Twenty years in the making, the collection was formed by Sandra Hindman, Professor of Art History at Northwestern University in Chicago, and owner of Les Enluminures, a gallery in Paris and Chicago specializing in illuminated manuscripts and works of art from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The exhibition will be complemented by a lecture programme and a catalogue in English with descriptions offering comparisons with rings in major public collections, and placing each one in its art-historical context and a technical section studying each ring, its material, fabrication and use. [CJ]

Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $56.020 $63.920 14.10% $82.800 $26.600 $153.4 105.48 $9,895

Alamos Gold AGI TSX $8.180 $8.150 -0.37% $9.140 $3.500 $37.7 36.78 $781

Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $26.820 $30.710 14.50% $40.910 $13.370 $884.0 26.52 $8,630

Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $0.910 $0.970 6.59% $14.700 $0.450 $43.3 1.83 $69

Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $41.850 $36.960 -11.68% $54.080 $22.000 $2,100.0 33.63 $32,256

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $20.970 $18.890 -9.92% $42.890 $9.000 $195.3 16.52 $4,806

Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.320 $0.370 15.63% $4.030 $0.185 $11.7 37 $252

Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $8.980 $10.700 19.15% $11.900 $3.440 $65.7 19.8 $3,941

Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $1.390 $1.540 10.79% $5.620 $0.760 $13.7 N/A $913

First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $17.900 $33.240 85.70% $95.390 $12.750 $568.9 3.13 $2,285

FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $2.900 $3.140 8.28% $31.140 $2.000 $75.4 6.6 $267

Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.010 $0.030 200.00% $0.360 $0.005 N/A N/A $1

Gammon Gold GAM TSX $5.050 $9.630 90.69% $11.200 $2.680 $51.7 N/A $1,153

Gold Fields GFI NYSE $10.080 $11.190 11.01% $16.850 $4.640 $718.1 14.78 $7,309

Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $38.000 $37.820 -0.47% $52.480 $17.770 $1,508.5 15.5 $27,575

Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $6.700 $9.900 47.76% $11.380 $2.930 $207.2 N/A $2,927

International Royalty IRC TSX $1.680 $2.170 29.17% $6.300 $1.300 $11.5 13.75 $170

Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $2.980 $5.270 76.85% $13.100 $2.060 $3.1 N/A $1,979

Kinross Gold K TSX $22.000 $21.350 -2.95% $27.160 $8.960 $484.4 34.58 $14,079

Lundin Mining LUN TSX $1.220 $1.080 -11.48% $9.150 $0.690 $52.6 N/A $526

Newmont Mining NMC TSX $47.880 $49.980 4.39% $56.110 $27.140 $1,342.0 21.74 $17,172

NovaGold Resources NG TSX $2.090 $3.540 69.38% $11.360 $0.475 $34.8 90 $372

Pan American Silver PAA TSX $20.450 $18.360 -10.22% $43.660 $11.120 $40.8 48.11 $1,483

Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $7.500 $7.440 -0.80% $9.250 $3.280 $65.9 19.23 $1,533

Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $17.300 $17.740 2.54% $38.000 $6.870 $1.8 N/A $1,112

Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $7.090 $8.570 20.87% $19.300 $3.070 $34.7 27.65 $1,911

Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $5.980 $3.900 -34.78% $52.900 $3.350 $1,663.0 2.18 $1,899

Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $8.380 $11.120 32.70% $19.790 $4.290 $431.5 24.61 $7,775

Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $12.640 $7.120 -43.67% $36.370 $6.210 N/A 1.78 $18,827

BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $44.320 $37.130 -16.22% $95.610 $24.530 N/A 6.46 $62,348

Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.185 $0.150 -18.92% $0.640 $0.130 N/A N/A $1

Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.050 $0.045 -10.00% $0.600 $0.025 $0.7 N/A $11

Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.060 $0.090 50.00% $0.370 $0.050 N/A N/A $3

Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $5.880 $2.520 -57.14% $32.150 $2.660 $217.4 0.57 $155

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.100 $0.770 -30.00% $5.140 $0.730 N/A N/A $46

Moydow Mines Intl Inc MOY TSX $0.080 $0.085 6.25% $0.210 $0.050 N/A N/A $5

New Nadina Expls Ltd NNA TSX-V $0.120 $0.115 -4.17% $0.375 $0.075 N/A N/A $3

Nordic Diamonds Ltd NDL TSX-V $0.005 $0.010 100.00% $0.130 $0.005 N/A N/A $1

Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $98.750 $102.450 3.75% $558.650 $59.200 N/A 8.93 $25,536

Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.065 $0.085 30.77% $0.610 $0.055 $0.1 N/A $19

Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.005 $0.005 0.00% $0.085 $0.005 $5.7 N/A $1

True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.060 $0.090 50.00% $0.440 $0.050 N/A N/A $6

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.420 $0.200 -52.38% $4.980 $0.200 N/A 0.17 $2

Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $14.140 $11.750 -16.90% $44.730 $11.510 $409.8 6.55 $957

Sears Canada SCC TSX $17.950 $18.200 1.39% $25.390 $15.000 $1,443.8 6.71 $1,959

Signet Group SIG NYSE $9.020 $7.240 -19.73% $31.620 $5.910 $629.3 N/A $617

Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $24.430 $17.210 -29.55% $49.980 $16.750 $618.2 6.25 $2,134

Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $55.240 $48.910 -11.46% $63.850 $46.250 $107,996.0 14.55 $191,852

Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $3.220 $0.970 -69.88% $42.230 $0.890 $679.4 N/A $31

Gold COMX $942.700

Silver COMX $13.323

Platinum NYME $1,078.700

Palladium NYME $203.500

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

Company Name StockSymbol

Exchange Price12/16/08

Price03/06/09

% Change

52-WeekHigh

52-WeekLow

Last QuarterRevenue ($Millions)

P/ERatio

MarketCap

($Millions)

GeMstones

Jewellers & retailers

coMModities

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GoldSpring Announces 0.123 Ounces Per Ton Gold and 2.23 Ounces Per Ton Silver at Hartford/Lucerne DepositGoldSpring, Inc. announced the results of 10 infill drill holes with high concentrations of gold and silver, specifically in drill holes: RC-102, with a 65-foot interval at 0.123 ounces per ton of gold and 2.23 ounces per ton of silver; and RC-104 with a 115-foot interval at 0.091 ounces per ton of gold and 1.98 ounces per ton of silver. Larry Martin, GoldSpring’s Chief Geologist, says: “These 10 drill hole results are characterized by long contiguous intervals of gold and silver mineralization, which illustrate the deposit's continuity and expansion at Lucerne/Hartford.” As reported to GoldSpring, all drill samples were collected following standard industry practice and were assayed by American Assay Laboratories, Inc. Gold results were determined using standard fire assay techniques on a 30 gram sample with an atomic absorption finish.

Rio Tinto Announces Partnership with Aluminium Corporation of ChinaRio Tinto has announced a recommendation that shareholders approve a partnership with Aluminium Corporation of China (“Chinalco”), a Chinese diversified resources company. This will create joint ventures in aluminium, copper and iron ore as well as the issue of convertible bonds to Chinalco, which would, if converted, allow Chinalco to increase its existing shareholding in Rio Tinto. This transaction is intended to position Rio Tinto to sustain during economic troubles and help propel the Company into the next decade.

Troy Mine Operations Update and Year End ReservesRevett Minerals Inc. has announced improved operations performance and year-end reserves and resources from its Troy Mine. The Company achieved record production from its

70% held Troy Mine during 2008, including an 8% increase of silver production of 1.2 million ounces and copper production of 9.8 million pounds, a 4% increase from 2007. There was also a reduction of 29% in operating costs from October to December 2008. The Q4 2008 achievement is particularly significant during a period when wages were also reduced by 10% for all employees at the Troy Mine. In addition to increased production, operating costs have been reduced through realization of lower prices for fuel and other consumables and increased focus on better utilization of wear materials.

Burnstone Executes Mining Right and Environmental Management ProgramVancouver-based Great Basin Gold Ltd. announced the execution of its mining right, and the approval of its environmental management program by the Department of Minerals and Energy for the Burnstone Gold Project in South Africa. A mining right to allow the Company's Southgold Exploration to mine gold, silver and aggregate in the Burnstone mine area was initially granted on October 28, 2008. It is valid for an initial period of 18 years from date of execution and gives Southgold the right to mine for gold and silver, and plans to apply for an extension. Ferdi Dippenaar, President and CEO, comments: “This is another important milestone in the history of Great Basin Gold, as it clears the way for commercial mining at the Burnstone project.We look forward to delivering a commercial mining operation by June 2010.”

Gammon Gold Presents at the BMO Global Metals & Mining Conference Nova Scotia-based Gammon Gold Inc. posted its Investor Presentation, which was used at the BMO Global Metals & Mining Conference, on its corporate website. This innovative method allows investors and interested parties to view the presentation ahead of time. Gammon Gold is a mid-tier gold and silver producer with properties in Mexico. The report notes a 15% increase in Gold ounces, and reduced total cash costs by 20%. The Company also launched a major exploration program, reporting its best-ever operation quarter, with a 256% increase in operating cash flow.

128 De Beers Workers Lose Jobs at Northern diamond MineDe Beers Canada’s Snap Lake diamond mine in the Northwest Territories saw a loss of 218 jobs. Citing the worldwide economic crisis, the Company will also downsize operations in the mine, and 128 De Beers staff received termination notices, while 90 contract workers experienced contract suspensions or scaled work duties. “This is a very difficult but necessary business decision as we respond to the changing client demand for diamonds in the short term,” De Beers Canada president Jim Gowans stated. “Our mines have accomplished a tremendous amount in their first year of operation and we must continue to overcome the economic challenges of today to position ourselves for a strong and long-term future in Canada.” These losses come fresh after 105 contract jobs terminations at the mine late last year and an announcement that the mine will be shut down for six weeks in the summer and four weeks in the winter throughout 2009.

028-029.CJ_MiningNews.indd 28 3/25/09 4:11:51 PM


miningnews


Lundin Mining Reports Deep Q4 Loss Toronto base-metals miner Lundin Mining Corp reported a loss of $728,5-million for Q4, compared with a loss of $436,6-million a year earlier, after the Company wrote down the value of assets and recorded $94,3-million in negative pricing adjustments from previous quarters. Before discontinued operations and impairment charges of $576-million, the Company lost $131.9 million. CEO Phil Wright noted that a steep fall in base-metal prices since September resulted in a difficult Q4. The Company was also about to be acquired by HudBay Minerals, but HudBay shareholders opposed this and the two firms cancelled the transaction in late February. To manage costs, Lundin has curtailed production at some operations, and has sold its Portugal Aljustrel operation.

Silver Standard Announces Public Offering of Common SharesVancouver-based Silver Standard Resources Inc. has filed a preliminary prospectus supplement to its existing short form base shelf prospectus with the securities commissions in Canada and the U.S. in connection with a public offering of its common shares to raise gross proceeds of approximately US$80 million. The Company will use this for the development of mineral properties, working capital requirements, to repay outstanding debts and other corporate purposes.

Lonmin to Cut 5,500 Jobs in Platinum MinesLonmin Plc, the world’s third-biggest platinum producer, will terminate up to 5,500 workers at its South African platinum operations. The Company expects to cut 300 management jobs and 4,000 full-time jobs at its Marikana mine. The cuts come in response to drop in demand from car makers, the biggest user of the metal. As a result, prices have tumbled more than 50% from its highest peak last year. “With the current backdrop of challenging economic conditions, these agreements are an important milestone in our objective of restructuring the company,” noted Chief Executive Ian Farmer. However, the National Union of Mineworkers and Solidarity trade union (with 300,000 members) said they had not agreed to the job cuts. Despite this, Lonmin repeated it still expects to achieve platinum sales of around 700,000 ounces from a full year’s production at Marikana.

Rio Tinto Sells Jacobs Ranch Coal Mine Rio Tinto signed a sale and purchase agreement to sell its Jacobs Ranch coal mine to Arch Coal, Inc. for a total cash consideration of US$761 million. Completion of the transaction remains subject to customary closing conditions, including regulatory approvals. Jacobs Ranch, located south of Gillette, Wyoming in the southern portion of the Powder River Basin, mines steam coal and ships it to customers throughout the U.S. In November 2007, Rio Tinto Energy America (RTEA), a business unit that operates U.S. coal mines mainly in the Powder River Basin of Wyoming and Montana, including Jacobs Ranch, was identified for divestment. The process of divesting RTEA, which will remain one of the largest coal producers in the U.S. following this transaction, will continue. During 2008, Rio Tinto realized almost US$3 billion from asset sales, comprising the Greens Creek mine in Alaska for US$750 million, its interest in the Cortez operation in Nevada for US$1.695 billion and the Kintyre uranium project in Western Australia for US$495 million. In January 2009, the Group announced the divestment of its interest in the Ningxia aluminum smelter in China for US$125 million as well as its potash assets and Brazilian iron ore operation for US$1.6 billion.

South African-Canada Chamber Launches African Mining NetworkSouth African-Canada Chamber of Commerce has announced the launch of a mining-networking group to facilitate mining partnerships between the two countries open to both Canadian-based and African-based companies operating in the continent. A focus of the program is to provide opportunities for members to attend mining-related seminars and workshops, networking sessions, adopt skills and assistance from each other and facilitate possible business ventures. Representatives from the Canadian Trade Commissioner to South Africa explained the partnership came about due to a strong Canadian mining presence in South Africa and the rest of the continent. It is also key to note that Canadian-listed companies held over 35% of the mining assets and investments in Africa and come second only to SA-based companies. During Q3 of 2008, Canadian investments grew to $3.5 billion in the region.

Avion to Cut Costs/Boost Revenue with Mali Mine PlanToronto-based Avion Resources has released an updated mine plan for its Segala/Tabakoto mine and mill complex with aims to lower operating costs and improve revenue. Avion, which bought the Tabakoto mine and nearby Segala deposit last year from fellow Canadian Nevsun Resources, hopes for a 66,000oz gold production this year. Nevsun began production at Tabakoto in June 2006, but placed it on care and maintenance when it failed to turn profit. The Company then focused on the lucrative Bisha project in Eritrea. In the updated plan, the Segala open pits have been redesigned to reduce stripping ratios and increase mining resources. According to Avion, this should reduce start-up capital expenditures by approximately $1 million.

Stats Can Says Mining will TumbleA new survey by Statistics Canada notes that investment in mining, oil and gas is likely to plunge this year. Results reveal private investment in construction, machinery and equipment has dropped 6.6% from 2009, mainly due to the mining, oil and gas extraction industry. Investment intentions are also expected to drop to $44.9 billion, 26.4% less than in 2008 primarily in Alberta and British Columbia. According to the Government of Canada, mining sector investments are down 26.4% to $5.6 billion in 2009 and capital expenditures will fall in the Northwest Territories and Nunavut.

Rio Tinto Announces 38% Increase in EarningsRio Tinto has announced underlying earnings of $10.3 billion, with net earnings of $3.7 billion, 50% below 2007, and cash flow from operations up 64% to a record of $20.7 billion. The Company also noted record production achieved in 2008 in iron ore, bauxite and alumina, borates, hard coking coal and U.S. coal. Rio Tinto’s chairman Paul Skinner says: “The Group benefited from the quality of its assets and its strength in the bulk commodities of iron ore and coal, which tend to be priced on an annual basis. These helped to offset steep falls in the price of traded metals such as copper and aluminium.” [CJ]

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Ontario’s diamond industry is a relatively new entity. However, it has been making tremendous strides over the past several years, and is poised to play a pivotal role in Canada’s emergence as

a world leader in diamond production.

Serving Ontario’s minerals industry, the Ministry of Northern Development & Mines delivers provincial government programs and services in Northern Ontario, along with representing northern and mining interests at Queen’s Park. The organization’s Diamond Sector Unit, meanwhile, takes the lead in developing policies and legislative and regulatory framework for Ontario’s diamond industry.

One of the biggest announcements is certainly the launch of the Diamond Bourse of Canada, a wholesale rough and polished exchange where merchants meet to purchase and sell diamonds. This new entity is sure to positively impact Canada’s global presence, and along with the Ministry’s initiatives, Canadian retailers and manufacturers have much to look forward to.

Canadian Jeweller talked to several key members of the Ministry of Northern Development & Mines — Robert Merwin, Executive Director, Diamond Sector Unit and Jack Parker, Senior Manager, Precambrian

Geoscience Section, Ontario Geological Survey — to find out more about what they are doing to promote and grow the Ontario diamond industry.

A World LeaderDuring the past decade, diamond production in Canada has grown at an astonishing rate. In fact, Canada is now the third largest producer of diamonds by value in the world. To give you an idea of just how big its diamond production has become, consider that 2008’s diamond worth was $2.4 billion. “We [Ontario] represent a small portion of Canadian production relative to the Northwest Territories,” Mr. Merwin notes. “We’re 5% by volume and 13% by value, which reflects the quality of diamonds at the De Beers Canada Victor mine.”

Mr. Merwin says that diamonds have added a new role to the Ministry’s responsibilities. These include looking at the valuation of diamonds and value-added opportunities to see how that translates into jobs and investment in Ontario. Promotion is obviously a key initiative as well. “We encourage programs for exploration,” Mr. Merwin says. “We’re on the ground and in the air… exploring areas of high mineral potential including diamonds, and we share the information with prospectors and junior companies who in turn develop further exploration programs.”

Precious Things Grow in OntarioThere are several key institutions playing a major role in Ontario’s diamond industry, which is good news for Canadian retailers and manufacturers. By Bryan Soroka

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miningfeature

Raising the awareness of diamonds in Ontario and other regions is an ongoing mandate. “Up until now [diamonds] were just from the Northwest Territories,” Mr. Merwin comments. “Now, there’s the potential for Quebec and Saskatchewan. The global diamond industry has taken notice of what’s happening in Canada.”

“What we’re seeing in stores is that consumers are migrating to a Canadian flag,” Mr. Merwin continues. “They value those stones in terms of social responsibility of being conflict free and knowing they are quality, ethically mined diamonds.” The Executive Director goes on to say that the Ministry plans to work more closely with Canadian jewellers to explore opportunities. “We want to see what opportunities exist to marry Canadian diamonds with Canadian gold and platinum, and promote Aboriginal inspired jewellery design,” Mr. Merwin elaborates.

Another big step taken by the Ministry is a recent agreement it made with De Beers Canada, where 10% of diamonds by value produced from the Victor mine will be processed in and marketed through Ontario. “There is an enormous opportunity for jewellery manufacturers to access the Victor mine production,” Mr. Merwin exclaims. “In other words, a diamond mined in Ontario, which will soon be cut, polished and sold in Ontario.” The Province expects to announce the company selected to establish Ontario’s first cutting and polishing facility this April.

Technical SupportAbove and beyond promoting Ontario diamonds, the Ministry of Northern Development & Mines actively assists in discovering new diamond deposits. “We map bedrock geology for Ontario and collect airborne geophysical data,” says Jack Parker, Senior Manager, Precambrian Geoscience Section, Ontario Geological Survey.

Mr. Parker and his colleagues look for specific indicator minerals in the sand and gravels that may be indicative of kimberlite, which are the rocks that hold diamonds. “All of Ontario has been glaciated,” he explains. “The glaciers move across the province eroding away the rocks, leaving behind sand and gravel deposits. They scrape the rocks and disperse them down the ice.”

Mr. Parker says that the geophysical surveys he helps conduct can be used to locate kimberlites, which have a unique geophysical signature that can be identified on maps. “Our mandate is to collect geoscience data for the province to be used for a variety of purposes,” he states. “Mining companies can use it for targeting areas for a high mineral potential, and companies use the data to help them focus on a better chance of finding something.” Mr. Parker adds that there are no guarantees of finding kimberlite. However, the exploration initiatives attract investment dollars because of their sound perspective geology, and the data once released reduces the potential of risk in mineral exploration. “[We have] new ideas about where diamond bearing kimberlites might be and new data we’re collecting in the north,” Mr. Parker says.

Regarding kimberlites, Mr. Merwin notes, “Our diamond production is based on a single kimberlite pipe… but there are a number of pipes adjacent to the Victor pipe.” Mr. Merwin adds that there are 70 kimberlites that have

been identified in Ontario. While all of them will not be diamondiferous, the potential is certainly there, which is a theory shared by many Canadian businesses. “There are 22 companies with diamond properties in Ontario, 13 of which are actively exploring, worth an estimated $13.5 million in 2009.” Mr. Merwin details. “We’ve really appreciated the involvement of the jewellery companies working with Ontario to help us learn about the industry and pursue further opportunities.”

Diamond Bourse of CanadaBecause diamond production in Canada has grown to such an extent, many people in the diamond sector have been intrigued by the prospect of a Canadian diamond bourse. That is exactly what happened as the Diamond Bourse of Canada (DBC) was officially launched. “It will serve as a focal point for the diamond industry in Canada,” said Bhushan Vora of Gemstar, Inc., and Chairman of the Board, DBC, during the official launch event in Toronto on March 3.

Located in Toronto, Ontario, the DBC is a facility where diamond dealers can meet, buy and sell rough and polished diamonds in a safe and secure environment. “It will clearly benefit retailers and buyers in putting Canadian diamonds in the hands of Canadian manufacturers and consumers,” said Tim Coleman, Minerals, Oil and Gas and Mackenzie Valley Pipeline Office Director, Department of Industry, Tourism and Investment, Government of Northwest Territories. “With the establishment of the Bourse, Canada will become one of the world’s premiere diamond distributors.”

Key benefits to the industry include shipping, customs and other services specifically designed for diamond trading purposes, working with verified vendors and dealers and secure online access to available inventory of polished diamonds across Canada. The introduction of the DBC could not come at a better time considering Canada’s weakened economy, and has instilled many with a renewed sense of confidence. “It is the right thing to do,” said Morris Robinson, Treasurer for the DBC.“ The momentum we’ve started will continue to grow.” [CJ]

To find out more about the Diamond Bourse of Canada and to discover how to become a

member, visit www.diamondbourse.ca.

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www.diamondbourse.ca.


Through the good times and the bad, fashion designers have interpreted and even influenced society’s mood. Watches, as an accessory, have enjoyed a special place in fashion given its

necessity and universal appeal. Not just a pretty bauble, watches that managed to serve the dual masters of function and beauty have earned their own level of respect.

Considering the head start women had over men in wearing wristwatches, much of the fashion surrounding ladies timepieces focused on making them look like jewellery. Delicate faces encased in circles and ovals of gold and silver finishes were common as was the use of bracelets rather than straps. For examples of the opulence and glamour heralded by the queens of the silver screen, nothing could compare to the gem-encrusted creations of fashion houses such as Chanel and Cartier, whose pedigree as the most famous designers of jewellery was unrivaled. Yet the budding excess was to come to an abrupt halt with the harsh realities of the Depression.

As watches became more common among men as well as women, fashion reflected a more restrained mood. In the mainstream, emphasis switched to making ‘sensible’ looking watches and major brands realized that they had to make them more affordable as well. Throughout the Depression years, Bulova even offered time-payment plans. Innovation turned from the fanciful to the functional leading to breakthroughs such as the Rolex “Rotor” and opened the door to future design possibilities.

This is not to say that watches have been immune to the fickle tide of fashion luring many designs into the undertow of fads never to be seen again. Once the economy picked up, watch design from the fashion perspective would slowly regain confidence. This would usher in new shapes inspired by the events of the day. Notably, squared faces reflected the publics’ growing love affair with television and by extension, the advertising that would fuel even more creative concepts.

When it comes to factors driving the most popular styles of watches, what is old is definitely new again.

By Mireille TheriaulT

Timeless

Roger Tallon’s Mach 2000 series has become an icon for LIP, while integrating popular style cues such as rubber straps. Im

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In the 1960s and even more so in the 1970s, fashion and design embraced new materials to experiment with wild colours and avant-garde and sleek looks, which incorporated everything from Teak to plastic inlays. Stars such as Roger Tallon made a lasting impact, not specifically a fashion as much as a lifestyle designer. His Mach 2000 series with the primary-coloured spherical pushers and crowns has become an icon for LIP. Technological breakthroughs included the 1961 Accutron, the first watch to keep time through electronics. And from the moment man first walked on the moon, a fascination with all things futuristic gripped fashion with countless utterly bizarre and enduring new creations.

It was at this point that many retailers such as Mo Charania, owner of Jubilee Fine Jewellers in Ottawa, Ontario, saw the most rapid changes. “When Quartz watches came along and watches dropped in price, we started seeing all sorts of assortments and interesting gadgets.” Everything from solar panels to radios and calculators were built into watches. “These eventually faded out and we saw the resurgence of mechanical watches.”Others who are also watchmakers like Reg Grandis, owner of Grandis Jewellers in quiet Petrolia, Ontario, also have vivid memories of that era. “Years ago, the Concorde introduced a watch that was approximately 3mm thick. They were trying to make the thinnest watch in the world. I remember working on those and being told that thin, thin, thin was the way in,” he says.

Charania concurs, “One of the first things that really struck me in the '70s was the ultra-thin Longines. I remember thinking ‘how is this practical as a man’s watch?’ It was literally about the thickness of a quarter. Certainly the evolution has gone from very small to quite large again. There is a lot of the retro styling and designs from the '60s and '70s that are very much in vogue again.”

The latter has more to do with the sweeping hands of fashion. While clothing styles whiz by in literally minutes, watch trends are mercifully measured in decades. Even though we sometimes cringe at the resurgence of fashions we would much rather forget, the renewed admiration for the mechanical watch is a welcome walk down memory lane. “People have started to appreciate the value of having a watchmaker assemble a piece again,” says Grandis.

As a second-generation storeowner with 35 years experience of his own, Bernard Florence of Calgary Jewellers agrees, “Precision is only one aspect. I think people are asking now much more for automatic watches based on their knowledge of the hand-created timepiece movement. Men are definitely asking for automatic watches more now than ever before. There is a renewed appreciation for the beauty of the movement and the intricacy of the hand work. It really is part of the conversation and part of the enticing beauty of the watch to see what’s going on the inside. For those reasons, a lot of women are also asking for them. In some cases, women are sporting a man’s watch on their wrist.”

This Christian Bernard men’s watch displays a rounded case with stones — a perfect example of how form is taking over for function in the watch category.

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It is very clear that big is back, but so is the “bling” factor, which is blurring the gender lines even more. “We’ve had considerably more requests for diamond pieces in the men’s part of the world. A lot of guys are going for that diamond look in their watches in the bezels and face. Even in the bracelet,” Florence says.

“We have noticed in the last few years that mechanical watches are sexy again,” adds Grandis. “There are a lot of retrograde looking things. The more complicated, the better, but the funny thing is, these mechanical watches are using the same movements that they were 30 years ago.” He also observes that men are asking for more glamour in their timepieces. “Certainly I’ve sold more diamond watches in the last couple of years than I’ve ever sold my life.” “I don’t think there’s any one trend now. The leather strap is making a very strong comeback but rubber is also very popular,” says Florence. “We’re seeing a lot of different things,” adds Grandis. “A lot of leather straps; a lot of pin and buckle as opposed to a bracelet. Certainly the evolution of all sorts of different types of rubber and exotic and metals in new combinations and treatments. I think one of the biggest fashion bleeps anyone has seen is putting diamonds on steel. That has taken off to create a whole new look.”

It is clear that over the last few decades, elegance and opulence have steadily come back in and watches have been getting bigger and thicker — growing in time with the economy. So where are we headed now with this next economic downturn? Will there be a quick back step from this trend? Will fashion dictate a more restrained look or will we rebel and keep the diamonds in the face of recession? Will this actually usher in an exciting new era of design as we will try to make more with less? Only time will tell. [CJ]

Pulsar’s Alarm Chronograph features popular design cues including a screw case, LumiBrite® hands, polyurethane strap and rotating bezel.

The wild designs and colours of the 1960’s and '70s are evident in Korloff ’s women’s watch with mother-of-pearl dial, sapphire glass and satin strap.

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facevalue

It seems so long ago, now, though practically everyone reading this was born in it: the 20th Century. It was a time of highs (particularly in the 1960s and 1970s), and lows (not too many of us remember the

Depression, but it seems to remind us of something familiar, anyway).

There was an incredible range of jewellery styles that came and went during this era. Queen Victoria was still alive when the 20th century rolled out. When the century had its last death rattles, we were all terrified of global meltdowns brought about by shortsighted software developers. Little did we realize that the coming 100 years would bring about a rage for camouflage accessories (pink for “girly” girls), and hand grenade-sized and shaped wristwatches, the product of a political upheaval that would lead to a true global meltdown on a macroeconomic scale.

As appraisers, we most commonly see jewellery from the 20th Century. We do see older pieces, of course, and we frequently have the opportunity to see 21st Century jewels, However, I would say that the vast majority of jewellery that we are appraising is of 20th Century. It is useful to understand the styles of the past century because there is a lot that is coming out of safety deposit boxes or ancestral jewellery boxes. There are thousands of interesting jewels coming into the market as we see the gradual liquidation of unwanted or forgotten assets.

With this cornucopia of jewels being poured into the market, it is a good idea to have a basic understanding of styles and designs as these baubles tumble into the market. We are all easily impressed by a little knowledge. Everyone has watched those TV shows with smart-sounding specialists who can look at something for two seconds and tell the owner, “This is very interesting. You see that one millimetre dot on the left hand side? That means it was made by the second son of the master designer such and such on February 9, 1723, he only made one other, and it’s in the collection of the Hermitage.” We can all sound clever by following certain simple indicators that are found in the style or design of jewellery, or are found stamps on the jewellery.

From the Great Depression to the purchasing power of the '60s and '70s, more and more vintage jewellery from the 20th Century is being sought after today.

Back to the Future

By Duncan Parker

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Metals used in jewellery are one important factor, the colours of gold used, the alloys and the combinations of metals are important. We cannot look at every element in a single article, so we will not focus on the metals. One combination of metals that we used to see in earlier Victorian times was yellow gold-backed silver with diamonds set in the silver. Through the 20th Century, this combination was not often used except in reproduction jewellery. You can recognize the reproductions because they often use brown diamonds and round shaped rose cut diamonds, neither of which is commonly seen in authentic antiques. We used white gold or platinum instead of silver as the white metal for setting diamonds through the century.

The gems used are important, too. There are certain gems that were not used or were not available at certain times. Tiffany formally introduced tanzanite to jewellery in 1967. If you see a pendant with tanzanite in it, it is likely either from 1967 or later, or it has had a different gem replaced with tanzanite.

Rose cut diamonds have been available for centuries, though true antique rose cut diamonds are not generally round in profile. Rather, they are most often cut from thin irregularly shaped cleavage fragments of diamond. They have a flat back, and generally the crown is one or more rows of triangular facets rising to a point at the top of the gem. If you see a rose cut diamond that has a round shape, it is likely from the late 20th Century. Rose cut diamonds are being cut in India for reproduction jewellery.

The end of the Victorian period did see Her Majesty relax her strict adherence to mourning, so there was a little scope from black jet jewellery. The Queen’s daughter, Alexandra, was very stylish, and people tended

to follow the modish Majestic as she displayed more flamboyance and colour than her mother. Subsequently, we saw this approach paralleled into the jewellery palette.

Diamonds from South Africa had been available for a couple of decades, and we saw the 20th Century start with more diamond jewellery than ever. Starburst brooches were all the rage. Uniform yellow gold star forms bead set with diamonds were worn by the wealthy, and for those with a more limited budget, starbursts set with small seed pearls were widely available.

Russia was producing beautiful green demantoid garnets at the time, and we see many realistically rendered salamanders with rows of demantoid garnets along their backs.

The clasps for the on early 20th Century brooches were often a simple hook. The pins on Victorian brooches were quite long, extending beyond the length of the brooch. In later years, we saw the length of the pin shortening to be not more than the length of the brooch.

The late Victorian period included nature inspired jewels of the Art Nouveau style. Art Nouveau jewels were associated with the Arts and Crafts style of William Morris, among others, and focused on handcrafted items in a counter reaction to the mass production of the industrial revolution. Art Nouveau used natural forms, asymmetrical designs and often incorporated enamel. Much of this jewellery used pearls and cabochon cut gems, including opals but rarely faceted gems. Rene Lalique was a very important designer of this period. The Art Nouveau style was the prominent fashion until the First World War.




War does put the brakes on jewellery for various reasons. Labour is employed elsewhere, precious metals are needed for “strategic” uses and money is spent on other things.

The end of the war saw all sorts of changes and created a great sense of excitement for the future. Art Deco was the new thing. France was the origin of this industrial geometric, symmetrical reaction to the freeform style of Art Nouveau. Art Deco jewellery often used many small gems. Not to exhibit value or prosperity, but to play a part in the overall design. Art Deco used many synthetic sapphires, showing off the new technology that was in keeping with the style of the geometric uniformity of the design. Art Deco was popular and was replicated around the world until the Second World War, often with local inspiration.

Once again, war interrupted this progress and there were other uses for “strategic” precious metals. We could not get our hands on gold or platinum, and probably had other things to focus on anyway. We did find other metals to use. One form of jewellery from the war period was aluminum necklaces and bracelet chains that were inspired by the look of treads from military tanks.

The end of the war saw jewellery jubilation. Finally we were freed to use gold again, so we went BIG. Retro jewellery incorporated large planes of polished gold (usually rose gold), often with scroll forms and synthetic rubies. Much of the Retro jewellery was hollow, and showed lots of gold without as much weight as it appeared to be.

Through the 1940s and 1950s there were lots of large brooches, flower bouquets of diamonds and coloured gems. We saw the beginning of a new experimentation in naturalistic forms, with animal shaped pins. These animals were popular well into the 1960s.

The 1950s and 1960s saw lots of traditional diamond jewellery in conservative forms of simple engagement rings and circle brooches. We also saw lots of cabochon-cut gems in jewellery. “Linde” heavily promoted their lab-grown star sapphires (identifiable by the flat backs that are signed with a sandblasted script letter L). This period also saw widely available colour enhanced diamonds in a spectrum of colours.

The 1970s was one of the less memorable periods in jewellery. Naturalistic forms, tendrils, nugget textures, and large quantities of gold were the order of the day, bark texturing was on the simpler jewellery, and once in a while we limited ourselves to cross-Florentining (cross-hatched texture of perpendicular groups of parallel engraved lines). Watch dials were made of stone, and tiger-eye was everywhere. Gold had been taken off a fixed price per ounce, and as the cost of this metal rose, everyone needed to show how much he or she could afford to buy.

As we arrived to the 1980s, we had Ronald Reagan as President of the USA, and while we worried of nuclear annihilation, we discovered polished surfaces on gold again, and we also discovered coloured gems. The world was becoming smaller, and there was a great palette of colour

available. Princess Diana received a sapphire and diamond engagement ring, and the coloured stone come into its own. Everyone had to have a Princess Diana ring, and sapphire prices went mad.

The interest in sapphires helped to promote interest in all kinds of colour and we saw imports from around the world open eyes to the possibilities of colour. Dials on watches were still made of many different gems.

By the end of the 1980s and into the 1990s the economy had suffered a setback, and we became more conservative in our buying. Coloured gemstone beads were everywhere, and for a few dollars, we could create necklaces in any colour we wanted,

While some worked on wire wrapping, eliminating the need for solder, others worked on unusual designs, and re-discovered ancient techniques. Mokume, a Japanese process of layering and texturing metals, was taught and practiced again. Unusual metals, titanium, tungsten, and others were used alone and in combination with others to create colours and textures that were new to jewellery.

Gem cutters were working on new cut styles, new cutting and inlay techniques, and new combinations of drilling and carving methods. The new gems and cuts brought about new inspirations in jewellery design. The growth of cutting and jewellery manufacturing in Thailand, India, and China allowed for modestly priced gems and jewellery of all kinds. Designers around the world could rely on regular supply of volumes of gems and finished jewellery.

The 20th Century wound up with massive changes in the whole jewellery world. The Internet was leveling the market, forcing prices down. Shopping channels were marketing unusual gems that were not available in the conventional retail market, and generating interest in a wide range of gems.

Freshwater pearls were being cultured in China and the end of the century was rolling along with massive increases in availability and decreases in price.

We also saw the economic enthusiasm create great gigantic diamond encrusted “bling” jewellery. There was also interest in precious metal versions of day-to-day items. There were gold and diamond computer mice, jewel encrusted mobile telephones. The economic enthusiasm during the beginning of the 20th Century spurred similar creations, gold change purses, gold tooth picks, and gold, jewel encrusted powder compacts and cigarette cases. Everything old is new again.

The 20th Century ended on a high note, with everyone spending like drunken sailors, and we know where that got us don’t we? Now all that enthusiastically purchased jewellery is going home. Much of it is eminently saleable, and the pieces from the 1970’s are pretty much being melted for gold content. We expect to see more and more vintage jewellery coming through the lab as the year progresses. [CJ]

facevalue




marketwatch

How do you choose the coloured gem jewellery that goes into your showcase? Chances are, it depends on who your suppliers are and what they are offering for the season. Manufacturers generally

create their lines based upon what is selling well and where they see the market going. Deciding what to make, for jewellers or anyone for that matter, is an imprecise science at best. That is why forecasting trends is such a big business; nobody wants to be the one going to market with the wrong product, in the wrong colour.

As a hedge against risk, corporations have long relied on market intelligence data and forecasting to stave off failure. Some companies, such as Home Depot, have systems in place that allow their CEO to monitor the

activity at any checkout in any of their stores in real time. That is what OpenBlue does. It logs anonymous consumer shopping patterns across a wide array of merchandise and categories and reports that back to the suppliers and retailers on our network, and exclusively here in the pages of Canadian Jeweller.

For coloured gem jewellery, we allow consumers to shop by colour or by gemstone. That means a shopper can see all of the rings, earrings or pendants in red for example, all in one place. All the while, we are recording how the consumer shops. It also means that not only can we tell you which colours consumers are shopping for, but we can also rank the most popular styles. How those styles and colours get to be popular is a perennial question.

Choose Your Colours WiselyColoured gem jewellery is gaining in popularity, though how do you choose which precious hues to sell in your store?By RoBin GamBhiR

038-041.CJ_MarketWatch.indd 38 3/25/09 4:46:51 PM



Jewellery Follows FashionWith bridal jewellery serving as the exception, jewellery is an accessory to clothing. Th at means that jewellery follows fashion and not the other way around. So if you want to know what sort of colours are going to be in demand, is is probably wise to watch the fashion industry. From that perspective, the Pantone Color Report may be useful because it showcases fashion designers and the colours they are using.

In our top 20 list for coloured gem jewellery, the fi rst three items are multi-coloured, which is a change from last year. Multiple colours are also refl ected in three of the designs shown in the Pantone report. And the palette in the Spring 2009 report is refl ected in the pink tourmaline, amethyst, tanzanite, citrine and other gems shown in our list. [CJ]

How People Forecast ColourPantone is the company that standardized colours for the printing industry in 1963 by producing fl ipbooks of colours where each tint was assigned a unique number. At its founding, Pantone originally produced colour cards for cosmetics companies. More recently, the Company has been producing the “Pantone Color Report.” Published seasonally, Pantone looks at what is happening in the world of fashion and interior design to come up with a palette of colours for the season. You can visit Pantone’s website for a video of Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, explaining their methodology. Now, chances are, most people have never heard of this report. And that is why Pantone started the Color of the Year in 2005 in an eff ort to raise its profi le and infl uence. Pantone’s (and competitors like The Color Assocation of the United States) seasonal palette's serve as a reference point to colour.

Fuchsia RedPANTONE 18-2328

Salmon RosePANTONE 15-1626

Palace BluePANTONE 18-4043

Lucite GreenPANTONE 14-5714

Super LemonPANTONE 14-0754

Dark CitronPANTONE 16-0435

LavenderPANTONE 15-3817

Vibrant GreenPANTONE 16-6339

Slate GrayPANTONE 16-5804

Rose DustPANTONE 14-1307

2009 Spring Fashion ColoursFrom New York Fashion Week, September 5-12, 2008.

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It was back in 1996 when Michael Sapir and Eli Goldstein put their imaginations to work. Following several years of research, the co-founders of Mirage Creations, Inc. developed a proprietary

diamond setting process, which is based on a 20th Century technique practiced by renowned jewellers such as Cartier and Van Cleef.

This highly specialized process is invisibly hand-setting diamonds. For those unfamiliar with the art, this manner of setting diamonds and precious stones does away with prongs, channels, bezels and beads or overlapping metal that are typically required to hold them in place. Instead, invisibly set stones are cut with notches and grooves that fit together much like the pieces of a puzzle, with the interlocking diamonds held securely in place by a specially formed network of I-Beam shaped tracks underneath the diamond surface. “I think it’s the most reliable way to set stones,” says Mr. Sapir. “And the most beautiful as well.”

In order to vault invisible setting into the next millennium, Mirage developed a way of setting and manufacturing in Canada that nobody else had previously done. “We trained our own cutters, setters… we even altered certain tools and machinery to be more precise, and developed many types of specially cut stones.” Mr. Sapir comments and goes on to say that while Mirage is very strong in micro pavé and pavé work, the Company is best known for its invisible settings. Co-owner, Mr. Goldstein, elaborates on the process. “Before our special process invisible setting wasn’t very well done in North America. But we researched and found a way to adopt technology into it, creating perfect dimensions for diamonds to create beautiful finished jewellery.” Via old-world craftsmanship and utilizing the very latest CAD/CAM design and CNC technology, the manufacturer has indeed taken the art of invisibly set jewellery to the next level.

Couture collection butterfly brooch:4.50ct of custom cut taper princess.Onyx and Blue Lapis inlay.

Out of SightBy fusing sheer creativity with the latest in technology, Mirage Creations’ designs are in a class all their own.

by bryan soroka

042-045.CJ_Company copy.indd 42 3/30/09 9:19:10 AM



companyprofi le

A shining example of this old-school craft smanship commingled with new-world technology is Mirage’s World Peace Egg. Th e masterpiece 165mm tall, 252.60 carats plus a 1.89 carat rough, boasts 865 invisibly set custom princess cut diamonds. “We created it to show the world that we can do the beautiful work they do in Europe,” Mr. Sapir notes. “Th e idea behind the World Peace Egg was to do something that utilizes our proprietary technology and blend it with our creativity and design,” adds Mr. Goldstein. “We don’t do status quo.”

Mirage has staked its success by off ering a complete lineup of jewellery, along with the services to back them up. Working predominantly in 18K gold and platinum, lines include Mirage Couture, the Company’s highest end series that features VS and VVS diamonds. M2, meanwhile, is a more mainstream and middle- to high-end line with approximately 3,000 diff erent models that fall into the pendant, ring, earring and cuffl ink categories. Mirage’s Fire & Ice line features its coloured diamond collection and its newest off ering, Duets, showcases uniquely cut diamonds with 33 additional facets that are set to look like one single stone.

Above and beyond its world-class designs, Mr. Goldstein says one of Mirage’s main points of diff erentiation is its “all under one roof ” array of services. “Th ere’s not much manufacturing going on in Canada,” he notes. “We’re one of the few hold outs. Th e majority of production goes to diff erent trades people for setting, casting, etc. Th ere’s no quality control.” Mr. Goldstein goes on to say that jewellery retailers turn to Mirage because it provides a complete line of manufacturing services. “We do it all with quality and good turnaround,” he adds. “We can easily modify [pieces] because we do everything here. Th at makes it convenient for retailers… to have one-on-one interaction so they can supply their customer with an exceptional quality, fi nished product at a good price.”

“Many people fear technology as there’s a lot of

trial and error involved when incorporating it into the

design and manufacturing process… But you only

learn by doing it. You have to make mistakes so

you can do it right the next time.”

Michael SapirEli Goldstein




Mirage employs two full-time designers, who are constantly envisioning new designs and ways to execute them. “[Our] designs are inspired by the different trends in the jewellery and fashion industries,” Mr. Sapir states. “We’re usually ahead of the Canadian market… visiting Europe and finding out what the popular styles are.”

Innovation is a cornerstone to the manufacturer’s success. It was one of the first companies to introduce black diamonds into its designs along with special cuts of coloured stones. Both Mr. Sapir and Mr. Goldstein lend their imaginations to design concepts as well. “Michael travels a lot and goes to all the shows and gets ideas,” Mr. Goldstein notes, “with invisible settings there are many complex designs that only lend themselves to that type of setting. That’s what makes it so unique.”

In all, the Company includes 35 members. “We’ve got diamond setters, cutters, designers, technical staff, administration, quality control… it’s full service,” Mr. Sapir points out. Mainly distributing to wholesalers and dealing directly with a wide range of retailers, Mirage focuses on the Canadian market for the most part. “We’re here so we know what people want,” notes Mr. Goldstein, who adds that the Company does deal with some U.S.-based retailers, though mainly with owner/operator stores that deal in high quality pieces. “We’ve been approached many times by U.S. chains, but you’re competing for the lowest margin and quality,” Mr. Goldstein says. “Because we’re small enough, we can serve smaller stores to medium-sized chains. Our hierarchy is very hands-on — we develop relationships with our customers. It’s not a corporate type thing.”

The Mirage Duets line is made up of 35 models incorporating Mirage Cut Diamonds. These special diamonds have an additional thirty-three facets to create vivid fire in each and every stone. The diamonds are invisibly set to create the illusion of a single large diamond at a fraction of the cost.

“Our designs appeal to people who like

something different… something they can’t

find anywhere else.”




companyprofile

The Mirage Fire and Ice collection exhibits jewellery using blue, yellow, green, brown and black diamonds. Combined with white diamond accents, this creates a striking and vivid contrast.

Mirage Couture eternity band with 140 custom-cut hexagon diamonds. 12.75ct.

“We manufacture a lot of men’s jewellery — rings, cufflinks. But we mainly deal with women’s styles,” Mr. Sapir says and adds that Mirage Creations do not typically target the younger market. “Buyers usually fall into the mid-20s for engagement and bridal,” he states. “For other pieces… the more high end, buyers can range from the 40s and up. Our designs appeal to people who like something different… something they can’t find anywhere else.” Quality control is another point of pride with the manufacturer. And to ensure every piece meets its exacting standards, setters engrave their mark on each ring. “That way if there’s a problem, we can pinpoint it,” Mr. Goldstein explains.

When it comes to world-class design in jewellery, Canada might not be the first destination that pops up in most people’s thoughts. Mirage’s unique creations and explicit attention to detail and quality is swaying the vote, though getting to this point was certainly not easy. “Many people fear technology as there’s a lot of trial and error involved when incorporating it into the design and manufacturing process,” Mr. Goldstein says. “But you only learn by doing it. You have to make mistakes so you can do it right the next time.”

It is this passion for discovering new territories that has helped Mirage ascend to its current high standing within the design community, and the Company has no plans to stop searching for ways to create, and of course, service, even more distinctive offerings. “Service, quality and attention to detail. That’s what sets us apart,” Mr. Goldstein concludes. “We’re proud of what we’ve done, and our plans are to keep on introducing pieces that you won’t find anywhere else. That’s what Mirage is all about.” [CJ]




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coverstory

To map out the Woodbridge, Ontario Damiani Jewellers’ beginnings, you have to travel some 2,700 kilometres northwest and go back over half a century. Because it was

in northern Alberta in 1952 where Franco Damiani would begin his journey that would eventually lead him to become a jeweller. “[Franco] had a background in metal working in Italy,” reminisces Frank Damiani, Franco’s son, who along with his sister, Anna Damiani-Celi, co-owns Damiani Jewellers. “He was sponsored by CN Rail and came to Canada and worked on the railroad.” As described by his son, Franco slept in a boxcar with a coal stove the only means to warm up in the sub-zero degree weather. “It was rough, but when he finished with CN, he went to Hamilton to visit a friend and got into the painting business.” Which still does not describe how Franco got into the jewellery trade, though running into another acquaintance, this one a watchmaker, certainly does. “His friend was from Italy, too, and he couldn’t find work,” Mr. Damiani details. “So he and my father opened a store repairing watches on Eglinton Avenue in Toronto.”

After just three months in, though, Franco’s colleague left the business, which spurred Franco to learn how to repair watches and jewellery himself. Struggling to make ends meet, Franco’s turning point arrived when he met Archie Atkins from A&A Jewellery, one of the largest manufacturers in Canada at the time. “Archie gave my father rings to sell in his store, which helped him move into a bigger location, and he continued to expand the business over the next 20 years.”

A “Super” StrategyGrowing up in Toronto, Frank Damiani earned his degree in economics from the University of Western Ontario. Following his education, he toured Europe where he was exposed to different cultures. This would prove to be an invaluable experience that would help him take Damiani Jewellers to the next level, which he joined when he came back home. “Kenny Atkins, Archie’s brother, was a major influence on me,” Mr. Damiani notes. “He said the future of retailing would be ‘Class A’ retailers or power centres… and this was 20 years before these kinds of stores started opening up.”

A Super StrategyA solid mix of top brands, full-service and pooling its business into one “super-centre” business concept has proven to be the keys to Damiani Jewellers’ longevity. By Bryan Soroka




Following this epiphany, Mr. Damiani expanded the Woodbridge location. “It was modelled after the power centre theory — combining our four stores into one.” According to Mr. Damiani, the model he employs to run the store is taken from something he witnessed during his travels in Europe. “I saw this gold market in Milan… a retail outlet for Faro, which is one of the largest gold wholesalers in Italy. They opened super centres, and we modelled our store after that.”

Damiani’s “super centre” formula has allowed the retailer to exceed the amount of business it does from one store that it used to do with multiple locations. “This is the seventh store we’ve opened — a big store with a full assortment of merchandise in the heart of the Woodbridge commercial centre,” Mr. Damiani notes. “We built it from the ground up to provide full service… it’s the dream store,” which is not an understatement as he adds, “Because we operate so cost-effectively, we can offer more competitive prices. It’s allowed us to offer our customers a great sense of selection and value.”

Exceptional DetailsWhen designing the super centre store, Mr. Damiani says he spent a considerable amount of time with the architects. “The concept for the design revolved around having individual service areas.” All of these areas, or modules, surround the retail section. “Everyone has their own work area,” Mr. Damiani says. “Manufacturing, repairs, appraisals — these are all separate.” This layout is intended to make the most of the store’s 5,000 square feet, with 3,500 square feet of dedicated retail space and the remaining 1,500 allocated to the service modules.

Other important details when designing the store included a walk-in vault, a lunchroom, security room, “everything we need to give it a luxury feel,” Mr. Damiani says. As the store continues to evolve, the owner says that he has been influenced by the shop-in-shop motif. Focusing on some of today’s top brands, Damiani’s layout includes dedicated sections to the likes of Mont Blanc, TAG Heuer, and later this year, it will add another corner to showcase one of its top performing brands, Rolex.




coverstory

A Marvelous Mix“We sell medium to high end merchandise,” Mr. Damiani explains when asked about his store’s product mix. “And we try to carry the brands that offer value and deliver them at competitive prices.” Another key to the retailer’s success is the fact that it provides its clients with full service for everything it sells. “Watch servicing, gold repair, appraisals… we have it all,” he says. Yet another service Damiani offers is custom manufacturing. Via a separate area located above the retail store, Damiani employs several skilled jewellers, who create custom pieces that further differentiate the retailer from its competition.

The top performing categories at Damiani are led by bridal. “Nelson does everything well. I like the value,” Mr. Damiani points out. “Michael B. has some of the most beautiful pieces and A. Jaffe has bulletproof product at a fair price.” Other bridal lines the retailer features include Diana, Scott Kay, ArtCarved, Borra, La4ve and Ritani. Timepieces are also solid performers. “We’ve had strong growth with TAG,” Mr. Damiani says. “Rolex is our most important line, though, and they’ve introduced some exciting new models this year… I can’t keep them in stock.” Damiani also features such noted watchmakers as Raymond Weil, Fendi, Movado, Citizen, Bulova and Aerowatch. Yet another of the retailer’s top performing categories, meanwhile, is diamonds as Mr. Damiani notes, “The big numbers are diamond jewellery and loose diamonds.”

For giftware, the co-owner mentions Mont Blanc as a leader, and adds that silver jewellery has been growing in popularity. “[Silver] is becoming a more important part of our business.” When it comes to silver pieces, the retailer points out Pandora as one of the best selling lines. “People like these products because you can add and take away the charms,” Mr. Damiani notes. “They like the idea of having jewellery with different looks.”

“Customers tend to stray, but if you serve

them better than anyone else, they have no

choice. It’s not rocket science.”FD 3.02 contre carat, 96 points princess cut, 30 points small stones, 18K white gold.




Overseeing Damiani Jewellers’ day-to-day operations is a team of 12 dedicated experts. When it comes to training employees, Mr. Damiani says that his approach is quite simple, yet very effective. “Basically, new hires shadow one of our most skilled, experienced sales people,” he explains. “New employees also spend time with our watchmaker, appraiser… all of our experts.” To make sure staff members provide their clientele with the best possible information, several Damiani staff have completed the GIA diamond course, along with other educational courses provided by some of the brands the retailer represents, such as TAG. The combination of service and a family feel obviously sits well with the retailer’s staff. “Most employees have been with us for over 20 years,” Mr. Damiani says. “One has been here for 47 years.”

Brilliant Buyers Another strong suit of the retailer is that it attracts a wide spectrum of customers. “We have our traditional base… the Italian community,” Mr. Damiani states. “And we also are fortunate to have other customers that come from a diverse background.” Which explains why Damiani sales associates also originate from many different locales and speak Russian, Italian, Mandarin, Hungarian, Spanish, Cantonese, Portuguese and Arabic, just to name a few.

Insofar as how Damiani customers have evolved over the years, Mr. Damiani says that typically they are much better informed. “They’re also more demanding and their tastes have changed,” he notes and specifically cites an increasing demand for white metals, diamonds and brand names. So what keeps these consumers coming back for more? “We do it better. It’s not something I say lightly,” Mr. Damiani says. “From store design, services, pricing, experienced sales staff — it’s the Damiani family experience.”

With over half a century of experience behind them, the professionals at Damiani Jewellers have a strong sense of how to keep their customers satisfied. “The trick is doing the right job every time to keep them coming back for more,” Mr. Damiani notes. “Customers tend to stray, but if you serve them better than anyone else, they have no choice. It’s not rocket science.”

Superb StrategiesMuch of the retailer’s marketing is financed via co-op dollars from the likes of the top brands it carries. Mediums used to convey the Damiani message include some newspaper and more prominently, targeted television spots. “I’ve found television gives you a visual for the same cost as radio,” Mr. Damiani says while adding, “For special events, we do some radio — but the best marketing tool is beating the competition.”

Rolex Yacht Master II, white dial 18K yellow gold with ceramic bezel.




coverstory

Damiani’s website also plays into its marketing mix. “The site has been running for five, six years now… it showcases our diamond inventory,” Mr. Damiani says. “People actually come into the store with printouts.” The website is a tool to visually communicate the retailer’s wares, though, and it does not sell any merchandise online. This strategy falls in line with Damiani Jeweller’s overall philosophy of selling. “Marketing is the art of trying to get more, but my strategy is doing the right job better and for less.”

A Fabulous FutureLike all retailers, Damiani has been faced with meeting the emerging needs and demands of a changing marketplace. “The information age has dramatically affected retail. It’s more competitive, tastes change more quickly — you have to adapt or you’ll be left behind,” Mr. Damiani says emphatically. “You need a fresh product mix to attract young consumers or we risk becoming dinosaurs… while also making sure you carry the merchandise that appeals to the more experienced jewellery buyer. It’s a fine line.”

And it is a line that Damiani has managed to remain balanced upon for over 50 years. As to what the future holds for the retailer, its co-owner says that he sees a more devout focus on renowned brands commingled with an eclectic mix of high-end jewellery. “People want quality,” he concludes. “But at a price that makes sense and with service that they can always depend on. That’s what we’ve been doing since we first started doing business, and it’s what we’ll keep doing to make sure we stay on top.” [CJ]

1. Plutarco Inc. Fancy yellow radiant VS diamond, 2.54 carat, trapazoid: 1.32 carat, 28 smaller diamonds: 35 points.

2. Nelson 2.21 centre carat, 54 small stones (39 points), 18K white gold.

3. FD 3.02 centre carat, 96 points princess cut, 30 points small stones, 18K white gold.

1.

2.

3.




Selling Permanence

The enduring quality of gold is what

has m

ade

it so expensive — and why it is

still so

desire

d.

By Sarah B. hood

24K gold hand-hammered Lush earrings, bracelet, necklace and dome ring by Gurhan.

052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 52 3/25/09 4:53:16 PM



goldfeature

In troubled world markets and ailing economies, nothing is more reassuring than the gleam of gold. Ironically, this very confidence in its enduring value has driven the price of the precious metal up

to new heights, which has certainly created new challenges for the retail jewellery industry.

The long-held record of $850 per ounce was broken back on January 3, 2008, and only a few weeks later gold prices reached a new high of $1,002.80. After subsiding slightly in late 2008, prices have been rising more or less steadily, and in February 2009, gold was once again flirting with the $1,000 mark. However, not every jewellery retailer is downhearted.

“I think people forget that over the past 10 or 20 years, the price of everything has doubled or tripled; gold just happened to do it all of a sudden,” observes Karolin Tecimer of Toronto’s Tecimer Jewellery, who mainly deals in pieces imported from Italy. Consumers are still buying, however, “we are finding people are becoming choosier when

they’re spending. They really want quality, nice design, something unique,” she says.

“In a challenging economy, when consumer confidence is at an all-time low, shoppers are looking for gifts and luxuries that stand the test of time. Gold is well positioned in a down economy, because gold truly is a wise investment,” says Duvall O’Steen, Director of Jewelry PR and Promotion with the World Gold Council.

Women, of course, continue to be key drivers of jewellery sales. “You can really play to the hearts of women,” says Tecimer. “If you make it beautiful enough, I think people will want it, always.”

“Women love bold jewellery, and a lot of it is self-purchase,” says Anny Kazanjian, Divisional Vice President of Public Relations and Events for Birks & Mayors. “Women have the disposable income and they make decisions — go figure! The reason the right-hand ring campaign took off so well is women are making decisions.”

18K gold Lace Cuff, Mother of Love cameo pendant, two tiered hoops with inlayed opal by Julie Baker Design.

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In fact, in February 2009, the World Gold Council released the results of its study into the gold jewellery buying habits of 7,500 women in India, China, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Turkey and the U.S. Their key finding was that, for women in all these countries, the primary motivation for buying gold

jewellery is “because it is everlasting.” The rising price has only increased the appreciation of gold, while, especially in the U.S. and China, gold

was also shown to be valued as a “symbol of love.”

However, since the last survey in 2005, gold is facing more competition from electronic items such as cell phones when it comes to discretionary spending, with its sentimental value being its strongest asset. “When compared to other popular indulgences like high-end handbags, shoes, spa services, personal electronics, gold is timeless. It never goes out of style,” says O’Steen.

The study also found that, from the point of view of fashion, gold — particularly yellow gold — is seen as increasingly desirable. “Gold

happens to be enjoying a huge renaissance in the fashion world. Gold jewellery is not only a must-have fashion accessory, but also fabrics,

shoes, hardware on handbags are also all gold,” O’Steen says, citing as one example the lavish spread in the March 2009 issue of Vogue.

“Rose gold is increasingly popular,” she continues, “a trend that stems from European designers, but is now incorporated into almost every designer jewellery line. It offers a lovely feminine allure for the woman with an already well-developed gold jewellery wardrobe who is looking for something new. Because it works well with all skin tones, rose gold is fairly easy to sell and works well with a lot of the feminine fashions.”

Kazanjian says pink gold is also “one of the most beautiful trends right now gaining a major foothold in the bridal sector. Pink is a colour, but pink is also an attitude, and some of us do see the world in rose-tinted

glasses. People love the newness. We’ve just launched the Amorique diamond with the pink gold,” she adds.

24K gold Double Olive Pit bracelet by Erhan Gursen.

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goldfeature

“It took a while for people to get used to it in Canada, but now we’re really seeing pink,” says Tecimer. She singles out “a cushion-shaped amethyst ring with rose gold. It’s a dramatic piece and people are really receptive to it.” Mixing colours is also popular, she says, noting that pink gold with white, pink with coloured stones, and yellow gold with white are all winning combinations. “In our spring collection, we have a stunning silver necklace, and the centerpiece is a gold ball,” says Kazanjian. “It’s a coming together of the silver and the gold. Marrying different materials, different stones, this is where creativity goes full-tilt.”

“There is definitely a movement towards yellow gold, and gold that is chased with applications to the finish that make it more interesting,” says Michael daCosta of Fortunes Fine Jewellers in Toronto. “Because gold is so expensive, jewellers must apply a higher level of workmanship to it to separate themselves from the rest.” O’Steen enumerates other popular trends, like Asian and African influences; the celebrity-driven obsession with gold hoops, and the continuing fascination with armloads of gold bangles or chunky cuffs. There is also growth potential in areas that are now niche markets. For instance, designer Robin Gray of Toronto’s Organic Metal Gallery says, “the thing I’m selling most right now is actually my expertise”. Because she works with recycled gold, her clients often consult with her about remaking heirloom pieces.

“People are still buying,” says Kazanjian. “Jewellery with noble materials will always stand the test of time. As a society, Canadians would rather buy a smaller diamond, but a better quality diamond. They want quality and value.”

“It’s important in these times not to cut back on your merchandise, because people really want a choice. When people cut back on quality, that’s just a double-edged sword,” says Tecimer. “People are working harder than ever, and whether they’re going to spend money on a weekend away or a really nice bracelet, it’s up to the retailer to tempt it out of them.” [CJ]

Gold Advertisers in this issue

CGMt: 818.609.7088w: www.cgmfindings.come: [email protected]

Gee N’ Gee Importerst: 604.684.1131w: www.geengee.come: [email protected]

Atlantic Engravingt: 416.555.5555e: [email protected]

“Because gold is so expensive, jewellers

must apply a higher level of workmanship to

it to separate themselves from the rest.”

Jomarkt: 416.606.0369e: [email protected]

Pandora Jewelleryt: 416.626.1211w: www.pandora-jewelry.com

J.S.N. Jewelleryt: 1.800.470.7374w: www.jsnjewellery.com

Miraget: 416.366.7473w: www.miragecreations.com

20K gold Serenity collection with Madero citrine caboshan, diamonds & oliver quartz caboshan.

052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 55 3/25/09 4:53:36 PM


www.cgmfindings.com

www.geengee.com

www.pandora-jewelry.com

www.jsnjewellery.com

www.miragecreations.com


First ImpressionsWhat does it take to create winning window displays? Planning, storytelling and appealing to your customers’ senses and emotions.

By Glen A. Beres

Creating an attractive, eye-catching window display is one of the most effective (and easiest) ways that retailers can separate themselves from their competitors and entice shoppers into the store. Window

displays can serve as a means of spotlighting key merchandise, reinforcing your brand image, advertising your unique appeal, drawing in foot traffic, and “planting the seed” to return in the minds of shoppers who pass by your store after hours. But developing compelling window displays does not just happen — it takes a lot of planning and just as much creativity.

The first step is to decide what you want to achieve with your display and determine how your can develop a presentation that best serves that goal and relates to your customers. For instance, if your key customer base is women in the 40-60 age range, you might want to consider using materials, visuals and themes that are aspirational, yet something they may find in their homes, in the stores they frequent, or in the spas they visit. “Think of your window as an advertising vehicle, not just a merchandising vehicle,” says visual merchandising expert Pam Levine, president of Levine Design Group in New York City.

“Your window is the first impression shoppers will have of your store. It is your ‘silent salesperson,’ and it should be an extension of your brand.”

If you are on a tight budget (and in today’s economy, this holds true for many retailers), your window display provides a cost-effective means in which to update your look and remain fresh in the eyes of your customers. The key in creating winning window displays is providing a “feast for the senses” that delights your customers. This means utilizing different colours, props, materials, textures, lighting, advertising messages, displays, packaging and other elements to make your window stand out. You also should use elements that are consistent with your brand and the look and atmosphere of your store, Levine stresses.

Furthermore, your window should “tell a story.” If you are highlighting a specific collection, Levine advises to use “place mats,” as well as risers of different heights, shapes, colours, materials and dimensions to achieve maximum impact and impart a sense of progression through the presentation.

58-61CJ_Window.indd 56 3/25/09 4:59:25 PM



Lighting in particular is very important. Levine and other experts advise using spotlights in windows to really showcase the merchandise and create an emotional reaction in the customer. Colour is another central element of successful window displays. For instance, a fall-themed window should utilize fall hues such as orange, red or brown (with materials as well as merchandise). A bridal-themed window, meanwhile, should emphasize white colours and white merchandise including diamonds, pearls and white metals.

As far as size is concerned, font and colour of text, these should all play off of your store’s unique brand image. When Levine works with retail clients, she helps them develop a position statement that says what the store stands for and the client base it serves. Whether the store’s emphasis is classic or modern, bridal or fashion, etc., determines the type of font to use, as well as the look of banners and other signage that will be included in the window. Levine has used engraving, etched glass, calligraphy and other distinct written presentations to create memorable window displays. Developing a position statement also helps you pull out a compelling tagline that can be used in your window and in all of your advertising and marketing pursuits.

One element that is often overlooked when developing an effective window display is language. Levine says that one thing she has done that has worked well for her retail clients is to create and utilize upbeat tag lines, quotes, poems and other positive messages. “The idea is to project positive reinforcement to the customer despite the dour economy,” she says. “You need to consider how your window can engage all of the customer’s senses.”

Key Mistakes Retailers Make with Window DisplaysOne of the biggest mistakes jewellers make in developing their window displays is relying too heavily on the brand labels they are carrying. Ken Morrison, a partner in the design firm Philip Williams Associates LLC, has worked on window displays for jewellers and other retailers as well as trade show booth displays for noted industry names including Mikimoto, World Gold Council and Gemveto. Morrison observes that some jewellers tend to focus on highlighting recognizable brand names sold in the store, and using stock materials supplied by those labels, rather than creating a truly unique brand image and statement of their own due to corporate pressure. “I don’t think that aesthetics and creativity are as highly regarded as in the past, especially in this economic environment,” he says. “A lot of companies are worried about their bottom lines, they have a lot invested in the brands they carry, and their store displays are dictated by corporate policy.”

“The idea is to project positive reinforcement to the

customer… you need to consider how your window

can engage all of the customer’s senses.”

merchandisingstrategies

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10 Tips for Creating the Perfect Window Display

Come up with a “game plan.” Decide what you want to achieve 1. with your window — advertising your brand, spotlighting your merchandise, etc. — and develop a display that tells the story.

Less is more. Don’t crowd window or display cases. Highlight your 2. merchandise like a piece of art, giving customers space to focus on a piece and appreciate it.

Stay true to your brand. Displays should be consistent with your store 3. image and brand. Use your windows to reinforce what makes you unique. Repeat colours, textures, shapes, language, décor, packaging advertising and other elements found in your store.

Create focal points. Focal points draw the eye to specific items or 4. elements and form the basis of a presentation you can build your display around.

Use contrasting visuals. Mixing different colors, text and levels in 5. your display keeps the customer’s eye moving and creates surprise and drama.

What’s in a name… everything! Always include your store 6. name in your display to remind customers who you are.

Refresh and renew. Change your displays often (experts suggest 7. every 1-2 months). You don’t have to change everything each time; changing one or two elements regularly (such as merchandise, theme, displays, props, signage, colours, textures, etc.) will keep your window interesting and fresh.

Recycle. Keep an eye on what other retailers are doing (not necessarily 8. jewellers) for ideas you can reuse and adapt for your own displays.

Don’t duplicate. Never show multiple copies of one item in 9. your window; every piece in the display should be a work of art that makes its own statement as part of the total presentation.

Use a professional. Unless you or someone on your staff is highly 10. artistic and creative and/or has the proper training and experience, it’s always best to employ a visual merchandising expert to develop memorable window displays for your store.

58-61CJ_Window.indd 58 3/25/09 4:59:37 PM



Seminars August 15th, 10:00am to 4:00pm at the Shaw

Shaw Conference Centre

CanadianRockies

DesignCompetition

Things to avoid when developing your display:

Using windows strictly to showcase certain merchandise • with little or no design, branding or advertising elements.

Going the opposite way with displays that are too esoteric to • be understood by most customers (some of which may not even include any merchandise).

Using design themes or elements that are not represented within • your store environment, which can cause customers coming inside to feel confused or misled.

“Overpropping” — cluttering up displays with too many props, • too much merchandise, or too many visuals, which can confuse customers and dilute the overall message of the presentation.

Using “cookie cutter” displays, signage, and other generic design • elements supplied by vendors without giving any thought to creating a unique look and feel that represents something special about their store. [CJ]

merchandisingstrategies

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On Saturday, February 7, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) celebrated the 25th anniversary of its prestigious Spectrum Awards. Winning pieces, executed using both traditional and newly created

tools and techniques, pushed the boundaries of the craft while embodying some of the hottest trends of the moment.

Best of Show went to New York’s Frederic Sage for his arresting “Enchanted Stallion” brooch. It dramatically depicts the head of a horse with flowing mane and flaring nostrils, hand carved of mottled deep green natural turquoise, bridled and surrounded by an intricately flowing ribbon of 18K green and white gold studded with white diamonds and demantoid garnets.

Toronto-based designer, Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar came away with two awards. Her “Ribbons” ring came second in the Evening Wear category. Featuring a striking 11.50-carat tanzanite, the ring has a double band of platinum set with 1,166 ideal-cut pavé diamonds.

“The piece that we did couldn’t have been done without CAD-CAM technology,” she says. “You make it in virtual reality. My husband [Jacob Buckareff] looked at hand-making it, but he said it would be a much better ring if it were made with CAD-CAM. He individually placed a pinpoint where each and every stone should go, and the setter actually did true pavé by hand.”

Winning Toronto designers discuss top gemstone trends at the AGTA Spectrum Awards.

andSparkleShineBy Sarah B. hood

1st Place ClassicalGregore Morin’s 18K white and yellow gold frog brooch featuring opals (2.32 ctw.), moonstones

(1.08 ctw.) and pink sapphires (.03 ctw.).

060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 60 3/25/09 5:07:35 PM



agtafeature

Buckareff ’s second award was an Honorable Mention in the Classical category for a very different piece — an 18-karat yellow gold cameo featuring a carved shell accented with white diamonds, tsavorite and spessartite garnets, rare paraiba tourmalines and pink, blue and yellow sapphires.

“It was worked on about two years. What’s special about it is that the back opens up like a gate, and lockets with space for six large pictures fold out like an accordion. We made it so it could sit up, and it can be worn either as a brooch or a pendant,” she says. “All of the frames inside were hand engraved. There was no new technology used in this cameo; everything was completely hand done.”

Michael daCosta of Fortune’s Fine Jewellers in Toronto won Platinum Honors in the Evening Wear category for his stunning rose-shaped platinum brooch featuring brown, yellow and white diamonds, pink and yellow sapphires and rubies. He had only entered the competition once before, but says that this year, “the piece we made was of a standard that I thought they would give their attention to, because it was remarkable.”

He explains “although it is of a rose, it is not anatomical; it’s an expression of a rose, so you get the fading into an abstraction in the middle.” DaCosta

wanted “to attain something that was very, very striking and fresh looking. You see a lot of flowers that are done in monochrome and gradients of

the same colour, but nothing where it looks as painterly as this does. I wanted to achieve that quality to escape the monochrome and do something that was a bit more daring in terms of the application of colour, to make it appear as though it were done it broad strokes, like Van Gogh.”

The piece has already found a buyer, and daCosta is in the process of fabricating a matching necklace that can be worn alone, or with the brooch as a pendant. “It is made of platinum in a leaf and laurel style, and it will be set strikingly with tsavorite garnets, natural yellow diamonds and white diamonds,” he says. “When you want to dress it up, you can attach it to this magnificent flower so it will look absolutely gorgeous.”

Best of ShowFrederic Sage’s “Enchanted Stallion” brooch featuring 158.26 ct. hand-carved natural turquoise, white diamonds (3.77 ctw.) and demantoid garnets (.16 ctw.) set in 18K green and white gold.

Best Use of Color and Fashion ForwardJames W. Currens’ platinum “Kaleidoscope X2” ring featuring an

85 ct. Crystal surrounding diamonds (10.13 ctw.), amethysts (2.50 ctw.), aquamarines (1.45 ctw.), fire opals (.90 ctw.), topaz (1.10 ctw.), citrines

(4.89 ctw.), garnets (2.13 ctw.) and tourmalines (2.85 ctw.).

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Taken altogether, the Spectrum Award winners embodied several important trends that may be expected to be in demand over the next few seasons. For those who can afford it, big and bold is still the order of the day. “The big, bold coloured ring thing really got its start in the Spectrum Awards and really took hold,” says AGTA Marketing Manager Adam Graham. “Even though we might not have seen it in the winners, at our Editor Event any big colourful gemstones and any big stacked bangles were it.”

Although the stones may be big, they tend to offer soft moonlight colours and levels of translucence. “We definitely saw an increase in the number of moonstone entries, a type of gemstone that offers a phenomenal effect; it seems to be a general moonstone trend,” says Graham. “In fact I just had an email about a moonstone engagement ring that was used in one of the soap operas.”

“You see larger stones, but the colours are more muted, so you get an offering of moonstones and chalcedonies; there was even a piece that had a large star rose quartz,” says daCosta (referring to Jennifer Rabe Morin’s second-place winner in the Business/Day Wear category). “Using those and then accenting them with either pastel colours or with brighter colours gives you a nice contrast, and there’s a certain elegance about those stones.”

“You see larger stones, but the colours are more

muted, so you get an offering of moonstones and

chalcedonies; there was even a piece that had a

large star rose quartz,”

Platinum Honors Evening WearMichael daCosta’s platinum brooch featuring a .57 ct. brown diamond accented with yellow diamonds (.52

ctw.), rubies, pink and yellow sapphires (9.15 ctw.) and white diamonds (1.58 ctw.).

060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 62 3/25/09 5:07:49 PM



agtafeature

Finally, while the pink-mauve-purple palette is still popular, deep greens and blues are clearly coming into their own. Certainly Angelina Jolie added impetus to this trend when she set off a simple black strapless gown with Lorraine Schwartz’s stunning 115-carat pair of green emerald briolette-drop earrings, matched to a 65-carat Colombian emerald cocktail ring at the 81st Academy Awards in February.

“I was reading about Palace Blue and Lucite Green in the Pantone colours, and these are what’s hot this year,” says Buckareff. “I saw a lot of aquamarine and tanzanite. There’s a great pair of platinum earrings by Evelyn Clothier [third place, Evening Wear] with green beryl drops, tourmalines and diamonds.”

Llyn L. Strelau of Calgary’s Jewels by Design has participated in the competition for 25 years. He singles out for special praise Gregore Morin’s first-place entry in the Classical category, a sparkling blue-green frog brooch made of white and yellow gold, studded with opals, moonstones and pink sapphires.

Regardless of the current trend, “that’s what I think Spectrum is,” says Strelau, “superb quality stones with a fresh approach… being able to take the tools and the materials we’re given and make something fresh and new.” [CJ]

“That’s what I think Spectrum is, superb

quality stones with a fresh approach… being

able to take the tools and the materials we’re

given and make something fresh and new.”

Best Use of PearlsJames W. Currens’ platinum and 18K yellow gold “Celebration” ring featuring a 16mm South Sea white pearl, a 12.5mm South Sea golden pearl, a 14.4mm Tahitian black pearl and a 10.15mm Tahitian black pearl accented with white and yellow diamonds (3.76 ctw.).

2nd Place Evening WearJulie Buckareff ’s platinum

“Ribbons” ring featuring an 11.50 ct. tanzanite accented with

ideal-cut diamonds (3.50 ctw.).

060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 63 3/25/09 5:07:54 PM



Trained as a graphic artist and painter, Iranian native Raana Ferdows launched her own Los Angeles design company with functional and decorative ceramics,

rich in colour and texture. She soon started experimenting with handmade jewellery, using gold-� lled wire for her delicately woven bracelets that incorporate pearls and coloured gemstones to make each one a unique statement piece.

Five years later, Raana’s Touch has adorned many celebrities who shop in upscale Beverly Hills or trendy Santa Monica or even film in Manhattan Beach studios. However, unlike other jewellery designers who simply court a Hollywood following, others have fallen in love with Raana’s artistry as well. Maintaining a modest price point, she has been able to sustain success in this economical downturn. In an exclusive interview with CJ, Raana reveals her cultural inspirations and upcoming work.

With a mix of Southern California whimsy and traditional Iranian culture, jewellery designer Raana Ferdows has created some of the most popular and unique accessories being worn today.

BY BONNIE SIEGLER

rained as a graphic artist and painter, Iranian native Raana Ferdows launched her own Los Angeles design company with functional and decorative ceramics,

rich in colour and texture. She soon started experimenting with handmade jewellery, using gold-� lled wire for her delicately woven bracelets that incorporate pearls and coloured gemstones to make each one a unique

Five years later, Raana’s Touch has adorned many celebrities who shop in upscale Beverly Hills or trendy Santa Monica or even film in Manhattan Beach studios. However, unlike other jewellery designers who simply court a Hollywood following, others have fallen in love with Raana’s artistry as well. Maintaining a modest price point, she has been able to sustain success in this economical downturn. In an exclusive interview with

rained as a graphic artist and painter, Iranian native Raana Ferdows launched her own Los Angeles design company with functional and decorative ceramics,

rich in colour and texture. She soon started experimenting with handmade jewellery, using gold-� lled wire for her delicately woven bracelets that incorporate pearls and coloured gemstones to make each one a unique

Five years later, Raana’s Touch has adorned many celebrities who shop in upscale Beverly Hills or trendy Santa Monica or even film in Manhattan Beach studios. However, unlike other jewellery designers who simply court a Hollywood following, others have fallen in love with Raana’s artistry as well. Maintaining a modest price point, she has been able to sustain success in this economical

CJ,

A Touch of Class

Mother Of Pearl with 12 kt gold fi lled toggle.

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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 0 9 CJ 65

designerprofi le

Canadian Jeweller (CJ): How has your jewellery, along with yourself personally, been influenced by the exotic and unique designs of your country?

Raana Ferdows (RF): In the back of my mind, my Iranian culture and jewellery is always intertwined and it comes through in my designs. Turquoise is very popular [in Iran] and it’s so richly vivid in colour. If you live in two di� erent countries, you would speak two di� erent languages so right now I live in two di� erent cultures so I mix all those in� uences and combine it with contemporary twists.

CJ: For many jewellery a� cionados, mixing gold and silver is a faux pas. In your designs, you successfully combine gold and silver metals along with multi-hued gemstones.

RF: I think the look of gold and silver in one piece is interesting. I’m not wedded to having just one metal in a piece or even having to mix turquoise with silver, as it’s done in America because of the Southwest in� uence. In Iran, it was always turquoise and gold so I’ve done that in my designs, again mixing traditional with contemporary. But unlike in my native country where 18k gold is used, I use 12k gold � ll, which keeps the price a� ordable. With silver, I like navy lapis, smoky quartz and I actually like classic pearls with silver.

CJ: It seems that in each of your collections, you include pearls. Why are pearls always a perennial in your designs?

RF: I think pearls are very natural, very earthy and very versatile. Pearls are very organic to me. I think you can wear pearls for evening and also

with jeans for daytime. I like the look of fresh water pearls with silver.I have a silver bracelet with fresh water pearls that retails for $198.00 and it always sells out. For spring, I made very light weight gold filled woven earrings with pearls [$98] and also ones with tundra sapphire. And you can mix and match the earrings and bracelets for a really innovative look.

CJ: What do you think are the upcoming spring and summer trends in jewellery?

RF: Chains — either worn long or multi-layered. Chains go with everything. Once you buy one, you can keep it forever and especially in today’s economy, you cannot just buy jewellery that is trendy one season and then “out” the next.

I always suggest people to buy more classic jewellery. It’s a good investment because it won’t go out of style. Instead of buying what’s “in” right now, people should buy what they can wear forever and even pass down to their children.

I have a beautiful gold � ll and silver chain mixed with smoky quartz that I just put into stores and it’s already very popular. I’m going back to my studio and making some using di� erent gemstones such as tundra sapphire. I’m replenishing stores with a multi-layered chain necklace made with a mix of oxidized silver that was very popular last season. I have seen women wearing my gold and turquoise long necklace wrapped several times around their wrists to create a multi-layered bracelet look that is still very dainty and delicate looking, but also creating a fashion statement. [CJ]

Tundra Sapphire stones with 12 kt gold fi lled wire.

Turquoise with 12 kt gold fi lled wire and clasp

064-065.CJ_Designer.indd 65 3/25/09 5:13:28 PM


066-67.CJ Noble DPS.indd 2 3/30/09 9:20:38 AM

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Best in Show Whether belting out a tune at the 51st Annual Grammy Awards or attending one of the many musical events throughout Hollywood and beyond, jewellery styles of the glitterati were perfectly in sync.

By Bonnie Siegler

Yes, Katy Perry kissed a girl and apparently liked it, but she also loved her 89-carat Zorab kunzite

and diamond cocktail ring ($38,200) that she wore to the Clive Davis Pre-Grammy Event. For rocking the stage Grammy night, Katy dazzled

in six stone round cut diamond drop earrings, each stone surrounded by micro-pavé set

diamonds set in platinum ($132,100) and graduated princess cut diamond bracelet set in platinum ($120,000) by Jacob & Co. at the Grammy show.

Proving that good taste can indeed be learned and worn to perfection, here is a look at some recent celebrity accessories du jour seen on stars over the last few months:

Katy Perry’s 89-carat cocktail ring.


Jacob & Co. diamond braclet

Amy Adams

Chandelier earrings by Neil Lane

Grammy night ensemble

Clive Davis Pre-Grammy Event

Katy Perry

Amy Adams attended the 61st Annual DGA Awards in Los Angeles looking like her fairy tale princess character in the film Enchanted. The actress charmed and captivated everyone with her platinum jewellery by Neil Lane. Amy chose long diamond chandelier earrings (10 carats total) and bracelet set with 15 carats of diamonds.

068-069.CJ_StarWatch.indd 68 3/25/09 5:18:27 PM


starwatch

Kim Kardashian looked splendid in a pair of 14.3-carat rose cut diamond drop earrings with 6-carat tourmaline drop in the centre by Bochic ($18,500) as well as a Bochic 15-carat ring with a centre diamond stone surrounded by two

rows of diamonds ($78,000).

Blinging out his Grammy ensemble, and not upstaging his Mrs. — Beyonce — Jay Z wore platinum and 5-carat diamonds in his Neil Lane cufflinks, worth over $20,000. [CJ]

Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured diamond (25 carats total) earrings

Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured pear shaped diamond (75 carats total) bracelet .

Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum and 10 carat-diamond ring.

While Jessica Simpson has taken some recent heat for her fashion choices, she has proven that her accessories are definitely in good taste. At the recent 44th Annual Academy of Country Music Awards nominations event held at the Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville, Tennessee, Jessica wore Bochic dark bakelite and rose cut diamond earrings that set off her blonde tresses to perfection.

Jay Z ‘s Neil Lane platinum and 5-carat diamond cufflink.


Kim Kardashian

Kate Walsh

Jay Z

Chandelier earrings by Neil Lane

Kate Walsh truly sparkled at the recent Writers Guild Awards in Hollywood, thanks to the millions of dollars worth of Neil Lane jewellery. The stunning redhead chose platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured

diamond earrings (25 carats total), paired with a platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured pear shaped

diamond (75 carats total) bracelet and platinum and 10 carat-diamond ring.

Jessica Simpson

068-069.CJ_StarWatch.indd 69 3/25/09 5:18:44 PM


s the second-generation owner of Damiani Jewellers in Woodbridge, Ontario, Frank Damiani upholds a tradition of one of Canada’s most

prominent jewellery retailers for over half a century by combining traditional values with contemporary merchandising strategies. During his travels in Europe, Frank witnessed an innovative “super centre” approach to retailing. He has taken this concept to the next level, and today his

store provides customers with an exhaustive array of the most distinctive and sought a� er designs and brands for bridal, watches and gi� ware. Mr. Damiani has also been crucial in introducing a complete lineup of services for his esteemed clientele, making Damiani Jewellers a true one-stop shopping resource for those intrigued by some of the � nest jewellery to be found anywhere in the world.


editorialboard

To fi nd out more about Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board,please contact Olivier Felicio, President and Publisher, at [email protected].

Mark LashMark Lash’s Fine Jewellery

Myles MindhamMindham Fine Jewellery Inc.

Brent TrepelBen Moss Jewellers

Judy RichardsDavidson’s Jewellers

Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board Welcomes Frank Damiani

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EXCELLENCE iNdesignAward Ceremony & Reception

September 13th - 15th, 2009

The Annual

130th Anniversary Celebration

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contactOlivier Felicio at [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact ourCirculation Department at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 ext. 6118.

Excellence In Design:Layout 1 3/25/09 5:21 PM Page 1

DESIGNER’S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS)

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompaniedby technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY.AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA.)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

ENTRY FORM

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION• Jewellery must have been designed and made in

Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must

adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are

not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for

diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and

jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable

precautions while the jewellery is in our possession,

Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for

insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your

own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss,

theft or damage for the duration of the competition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected.

Judges will then choose an overall winner in

each category.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and

a $25 fee for each package.

• Entry deadline is June 29, 2009, 5 p.m.

• Finalists will be displayed and the winners

announced at JCK Toronto, September 13-15, 2009.

Non-winning entries will be returned the week of

September 21, 2009. Winning entries will be returned

the week of September 25, 2009.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of

the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact

a Canadian Jeweller representive at (416) 203-7900,

during the week of September 7, 2009, and no later

than September 18, 2009.

• Winning entries and all information provided about the

entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides,

renderings and other reproductions of the designs,

as well as press releases, will also be used for this

purpose.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity,

beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.

Consideration will also be given to marketability.

Excellence In Design:Layout 1 3/25/09 5:22 PM Page 2


Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

74 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

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1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

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5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

CGM Inc. 2 101

Reed Exhibits - JCK Toronto 4 102

Gemological Institute of America (GIA) 5 103

OpenBlue Networks 6 104

Jewelers Mutual 7 105

JSN Jewellery 8 106

JSN Jewellery - Canadian Ice Diamond Collection 9 107

Pandora 11 108

Byrex Gems Inc. 13 109

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Pandora - LovePods Collection 16 111

Jeweler’s Mutual 16 112

Nova Diamonds Inc. 16 113

Gee ’N Gee Importers 17 114

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Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

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2. Use this quick

Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 18 116

GIA - Reports and Grading System 18 117

Nova Diamonds Inc. 19 118

TrollBeads 25 119

Rousseau Canada Inc. 26 120

MCD Pearl Imports 28 121

CMP Asia - Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 39 122

Mirko Engraving Ltd. 40 123

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 59 124

Noble Gift Packaging 66-67 125

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Reed Exhibits - JCK Las Vegas 75 127

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Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

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MCD Showcase:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:34 AM Page 1

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J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1John’s �olesale Jewelry Ltd.ask for our new catalogue

JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN PRESIDENTCELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139

TOLL FREE: 1-877-80-JOHNS TOLL FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1G3

MANUFACTURERS & WHOLESALERS OF FINE JEWELRY



www.maryjewellery.com

tel:416.368.8240/888.470.maryfax:416.368.8057/888.248.mary

www.jwdiamonds.ca



For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

Somal Watches Clocks Parts & Tools Supply

MIYOTA• • • • • • • • •ETA RONDA BERGEON SE FE MAXELL PANASONIC SEIKO CITIZEN

Maxell Battery Pkg

(377/364-100Pcs 371/379/395/2016/2025/2032-50Pcs)

Genuine Seiko Crowns

Assorted

Flat German Mineral Crystals

Assorted

Popular Watch Movements

$145.00/500Pcs

$99.00/30Pcs

$170.00/500Pcs

$99.00/100Pcs

30 Intermodal Dr. Unit #37, Brampton, ON L6T 5K1

FAX: 905-595-0166

Toll Free: FAX: 1-877-SOMAL 77

Tel : 905-790-2188Tel: 1-888-SOMAL 99

w w w. s o m a l c a n a d a . c o m

#37, 30 Intermodal Drive, Brampton, Ontario L6T 5K1 Canada

TEL. 905-790 2188, 1-888-SOMAL 99 FAX. 905-595 0166, 1-877-SOMAL 77

www.somalcanada.com E-mail : [email protected]

SOMAL WATCHES CLOCKS PARTS & TOOLS SUPPLY

SOMAL INTERNATIONAL (CANADA) INC.

IMPORTERS, EXPORTERS & WHOLESALERS

Valid while quantity last

INYOURNAME

DESIGNTO YOUROWNWISHESALLPRINTINGSTEPS

1 - 8 0 0 6 6 1 - 4 4 1 0s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m

C A N A D AC A N A D A

F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9

N O

L O W E S T P R I C E S

J E W E L L E R Y R E P A I RE N V E L O P E

I N

C A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D A

P R I C E SP R I C E SL O W E S TL O W E S T

C A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D A1

Studio Publicity ad SHOWCASE.indd 1 3/25/09 12:49:05 PM

LASERMAN-500 High precision ND: Yag Welding systemDeveloped in particular for goldsmiths and dental industry for welding and repairs of both large and small workshops.

The design of this unit has taken into account the necessary, precision, easiness of use, reduced maintenance and long-lasting duration of the lamp allow a high productive efficiency, so that work can be carried out better and in full safety. The machine can be used by an operator with limited experience.

Characteristics:

and laser radiation protection for the eyes which can be connected into video camara

on weleding points

Functions:

OUTILLAGES ET MACHINERIES POUR BIJOUTERIE / COMPLETE LINE OF JEWELRY SUPPLIES



www.somalcanada.com


A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

555 Richmond Street West

Toronto ON M5V 3B1

T (416) 203-6737 x 317

F (416) 203-1318

[email protected]


To: Gail Sheppard Company: CGA

Email: [email protected]: 416-785-0962

From: Kathy ToufighiPages: 1

Date: Oct. 31, 2006Space: Mrkplc proof in Buyers’ Guide

Urgent ad proof!

Please view your ad and fax back with your approval ASAP.

Signature: Date:

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING •• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCEIN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

LET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.ca

Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:

[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

Shele LetwinPh: 866.299.1702

GV Design CanadaGemVision - “We will show you how.”

>>www.gemvision.com got mill?

THE NEW REVO540C DUAL-SPINDLE MILLING SYSTEM




www.xau.ca

tel:(416)363-0584.fax:(416)363-9633.tollfree:1-888-401-1111

www.gemvision.com



marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

www.gesswein.comemail: sales@gessweincanada

Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment

317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1

Telephone: 416-675-9171Toll Free : 800-263-610624 hr Fax : 888-269-0106

Gesswein ad Marketplace:Layout 1 12/12/08 3:21 PM Page 1

Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653) Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 416-366-3499 27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario

Available for Immediate DeliveryAll Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined

PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM

GOLD DEPOTGOLD DEPOT

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1

1-800-263-1669905 475-9566

www.imperialproducts.comPart of the Unicore Group

A leader in the Canadian JewelleryIndustry since 1914

Imperial Smelting Marketplace REVad:Layout 1 1/5/09 3:29 PM Page 1

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

55 Queen Street EastSuite 1402Toronto, ON M5C 1R6Canada

Tel: 416-368-9632Fax: 416-368-1833Toll Free: [email protected]

All expert pearl restringing done on our premises to our loyal

14kt gold diamond clasps.

Restringing Centre Inc.

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and alloy products At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 27 Queen Street, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free:866-553-0130

9 9 9 9

Tel: 647-430-3643 Fax:647-430-3657 E-mail:[email protected] Web: www.goldrefiner.ca

WWW.goldrefiner.ca

While You Wait-Immediate SettlementsCheck our State of the art Jewellery Alloys

Check Our site for the up-to-date Buy and Sale Prices At:

DECEMBER ad



www.gesswein.com

fax:(416)422-0290......tollfree1-800-741-6139

www.imperialproducts.compartoftheunicoregroup

fax:(416)368-6883

tel:(416)7366052

fax:(416)7364334

www.refinegold.ca

www.goldrefiner.ca

www.refinegold.ca

www.goldrefiner.ca

fax:647-430-3657

www.goldrefiner.ca

www.goldrefiner.ca



marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

The Diamonds You Need. In Stock. Overnight.

We carry finely cut diamonds rangingfrom .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of shapes including round brilliant, princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart, pear, marquise and oval.

Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.

Selection, Service and Valuea family tradition since 1955

www.wmolldiamonds.comPhone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738

21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

classifiedA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Michele Aubie Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6119 or [email protected].

OWN YOUR OWNRECESSION RESISTANT

FRANCHISE!World’s Largest Jewellery

and Watch RepairFranchise is Looking to

Expand in a Mall Near You.Make money for yourself andtake control of your future!

• High Traffic Locations• Extremely High Gross Margins• Low Inventory Costs• 25 Year Proven Record• Full Training, No Exp Nec.

WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!(800) 359-0407www.fastfix.com

GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

SERV

ICES

FULL TIME/PART TIME JEWELLER,MODEL MAKER, WITH SETTING

EXPERIENCE. OVER 30 YEARS INTHE TRADE. LOOKING FOR WORK.

CALL LUI 416.885.5568.

Creative gold classified ad April 09:Atkinson’s classifed 3/23/09 7:11 PM Page 1

AGENTS REPS WANTEDCanadian Diamond Importer/Jewellery

manufacturer seeks salesrepresentative for Western Canada.

Call Ian at 1-800-665-0346E-Mail: [email protected]

ENTS

REPS

WAN

TED

Josefryan classified ad April 09:Atkinson’s classifed 3/23/09 7:11 PM Page 1

You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers

the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of our industries

top retailers. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a

spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.

To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to

expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send

an email request to [email protected]

Calling all Canadian

Jewellery Retailers...



www.wmolldiamonds.com

www.fastfix.com


lastword

Politician James Blakely once said:

Gold is forever. It is beautiful, useful, and never wears out.“

Despite uncertain times, the beauty of gold remains timeless. This Mississippi River Pearl Neckpiece is hand-built of 18 and 22 Karat rose, peach and yellow Ecogold, a 100% post-consumer, recycled gold.

It embodies a truth and a decadence that will last a lifetime.

Created by Stephani Briggs for the 2009 Annual Explorers Club Banquet in New York City. It features Natural Mississippi River Pearls from mollusks currently threatened by eco-degradation.

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aph:

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ante

Small wonder that gold has been prized over all else, in all ages, as a

”store of value that will survive the travails of life and the ravages of time.

097.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 3/25/09 4:32:24 PM


083.CJ Jomark ad.indd 1 3/27/09 2:28:41 PM

EXCEPTIONAL WEDDING BANDS FROM $500 RETAIL

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]

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084.CJ Mirage ad.indd 1 3/25/09 6:06:57 PM

www.miragecreations.com

canadian jeweller magazine aprilmay 2009

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